Travel News Namibia ITB Edition 2023

Namibia Travel News

is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com

Tel: +264 61 383 450, Hypermotor City Unit 44, Maxwell street PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia

EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na

PRODUCTION & CONTENT MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk leroux@venture.com.na

PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na

LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk liza@venture.com.na

CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na

TEXT CONTRIBUTORS

Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Willie Olivier, Charene Labuschagne, Elzanne McCulloch

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Charene Labuschagne, Simone Micheletti

Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.

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Elzanne McCulloch Editor

CONTENTS

IT’S TIME TO EXPLORE THE ZAMBEZI p8

Discover the wet and wild northeast of Namibia with its rivers and parks

SPACE & TIME p20

A celebration of Namibia’s farflung places and time well spent across its vast vistas

WHY WILDLIFE SELFIES ARE A CONSERVATION CRISIS p38

And how you can be a better visitor by taking, and sharing, more thoughtful photos

EPIC NAMIBIA p56

What does the ultimate tour through Namibia look like?

42

The infamous Skeleton Coast

THE FUTURE IS wide open spaces and time to explore them

There are many reasons why Namibia is the ideal destination for travellers from around the globe, especially considering the latest trends in travel show that tourists are looking for wide open spaces and an authentic visitor experience.

Travellers to Namibia are engulfed by a sense of absolute freedom brought about by breathtaking horizons and the bluest of skies. In addition, with a population density which ranks among the lowest in the world, Namibia can boast lots of space, open and wild expanses.

Our vast open spaces offer explorers the perfect remedy for souls worn out after being cooped up indoors during the COVID-19 pandemic. We’re seeing travellers seeking out our little slice of heaven as they search for breathing room. With trends turning towards places with built-in social distancing, Namibia is one of those fortunate places where wide open spaces are already a natural phenomenon.

Our land is one of compelling natural wonders, a unique variety of wildlife, contrasting beautiful scenery, abundant sunshine and wild territory not to mention the cultural diversity and hospitality in the habit of our people.

Here, pristine landscapes range from exquisite deserts and unspoiled coastlines to magnificent mountain ranges, bushland and natural wetlands. The many choices are perfect to complete any traveller’s desire. One of the most beautiful countries in the world, Namibia offers visitors a kaleidoscope of adventures and experiences.

Our only recommendation for a visit to Namibia is that you take your time when you’re here. To truly experience this land of vivid contrasts, it is recommended that you do not rush through your itinerary.

With this in mind we have chosen the theme of ‘Space and Time’ for this issue of the Travel News Namibia , ITB Edition. Space being what you will find in Namibia and Time being what you need to explore this boundless land. ITB offers a unique opportunity to learn about different countries across the world, and we hope you will take this invitation to come and explore our land of allure. At NTB our focus is on exceeding our visitors experience expectations and we can’t wait to welcome you to discover the infinite reasons why Namibia is the ideal destination.

With so many options we know that whichever region of Namibia captures your imagination, you can be assured of an experience that will hook your heart and mind. We also know that Namibia will charm its way into your soul, and like all visitors to our corner of the globe, you’ll leave with your heart full of treasured memories.

We are excited to welcome you to Namibia.

Heartfelt greetings, Digu //Naobeb CEO: Namibia Tourism Board

Also in this issue

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54

Zambezi

It’s time to explore the

Namibia as a travel destination has become known for cliché phrases such as ‘wide open spaces’, ‘desert vistas’, ‘rolling dunes’ and ‘desertadapted’, to name but a few. Yet, in the country’s oddly shaped north-eastern arm is a wild, natural playground that is surprisingly accessible considering its largely unspoilt wilderness. It is an area that contains winding waterways, wetlands, floodplains, forests, grasslands and the host of wonderful creatures big and small that inhabit these different ecosystems. Le Roux van Schalkwyk delves deeper into what makes this corner of Namibia unique and a must-see during your visit.

The Zambezi Region derives its name from the legendary Zambezi River. The river forms the north-eastern border of the region, starting from Katima Mulilo. From here it flows southeast to the tip of the country and Impalila Island, its easternmost point. It is the rather unique intersection of four countries: Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe. This is also the point where the Chobe flows into the mighty Zambezi. The Chobe straddles the south-eastern border of the region along with its preceding rivers, the Linyanti and Kwando. Two of Namibia’s five perennial rivers are found in the Zambezi Region, known for large populations of elephant and buffalo which congregate along these waterways during the dry winter months. Furthermore, thanks to the varied habitats, it is rich in other wildlife that includes leopard, lion and the endangered African wild dog. The lush vegetation and plentiful water attracts a myriad of bird species while the rivers harbour plenty of life that includes crocodile and hippo.

The region isn’t only a wildlife haven but it is also rich in culture, the heritage, traditions and customs of several ethnically different tribes. Most of the area is communal land which is dotted with villages and farms where the majority of the population are subsistence farmers.

The western Bwabwata National Park is the dry arm of the region and covers a stretch of more than 150 km between the Okavango River and the western bank of the Kwando River.

The park is unusual in the sense that most of the 6 274 km2 that it covers are zoned as a multiple use area. Three sections are designated for special protection and controlled tourism: the Kwando, Buffalo, and Mahango Core Areas. This means that 4 055 km2 of the park are designated for sustainable community-based activities such as tourism, and they contain the settlements of the local people.

Even though Bwabwata is a sanctuary to 35 large game species, including sitatunga and Chobe bushbuck, tsessebe and numerous small-game species, large numbers of animals congregate along the Okavango and Kwando riverbanks due to the lack of surface water throughout most of the park. The well-known Horseshoe Bend in the Kwando Core Area is popular among visitors. This u-shaped lagoon with its white beach on the western bank is a favourite drinking and bathing spot of elephants and attracts massive herds between midday and late afternoon.

Mudumu National Park is one of the lesser-known wildlife reserves and at 1 000 km2 one of the smallest parks in Namibia. It is nestled between the Mashi and Balyerwa conservancies, roughly 30 km south of Kongola, and lies on both sides of the main road that leads to Sangwali. Separated from neighbouring communal farmland by a graded cutline, wildlife can move freely into and out of the park. While it serves as an excellent corridor for wildlife migration between Botswana, Zambia, Angola and Zimbabwe, it can also cause problems with local subsistence farmers. Conservancies have, however, played a major role in mitigating human-wildlife conflicts, a fact that adds to making the park special.

Since its proclamation in 1990, and with cooperation from the surrounding conservancies, wildlife including a large elephant population has now returned to Mudumu. Where three decades ago very few animals were seen due to decades of poaching, wildlife has largely recovered.

To the west, the park borders the Kwando River for about 15 km. Thanks to the almost completely flat landscape, the track that follows the river and traverses the floodplain and associated grasslands makes for great game viewing. Whereas the western side of the park offers brilliant views of the scenic riverine area, the eastern side is the Mudumu Mulapo fossilised river course with extremely dense mopane woodland. Even though visibility is much more limited, visitors are more likely to see game such as eland, giraffe or zebra.

Nkasa Rupara National Park, the largest wetland area in Namibia that has conservation status, is a natural haven for wetland species.

Originally known as Mamili, it was proclaimed a National Park just before independence on 1 March 1990. In 2012, the 320 km 2 park was renamed after the two Kwando River islands in its boundaries: Nkasa and Rupara.

Nkasa Rupara is situated where the Kwando becomes the Linyanti River. The two rivers form the western (Kwando) and the south-eastern (Linyanti ) borders of the park and create a crooked V-shape. The park is a wetland of note: it consists of an array of channels and lagoons with lush marshes, dense savannah dotted with termite mounds and tall river reeds. The area is also extremely flat and therefore up to 80% of the park is swamped when the annual flood waters arrive from Angola via the Kwando. As a result, only Rupara Island is accessible, whereas the track to Nkasa Island is blocked due to deep channels.

The park is full of life and Namibia’s own Okavango delta, although on a much smaller scale. More than 400 species of birds have been recorded which, considering its size, makes it a rewarding hunting ground for bird-watchers. The area also attracts more than 1 000 buffaloes, the largest concentration in the country. Other species of wildlife are abundant as well, especially impala and lechwe, and the park is considered as a core breeding area for wildlife that can disperse into neighbouring conservancies. Boat cruises allow for amazing hippo sightings, apart from being a fantastic way to explore the Linyanti swamps.

Even though there are no proclaimed parks on the Namibian side of the Zambezi River, there are excellent accommodation establishments overlooking the river. With the large number of bird species that live along this life-sustaining river, the area is superb for bird watching. Boat trips on the river guarantee great sightings of African skimmers, kingfishers, fish eagles and for the lucky few, Pel’s fishing owl. Between late August and December, several breeding colonies of Southern carmine

The region isn’t only a wildlife haven but it is also rich in culture, the heritage, traditions and customs of several ethnically different tribes.

bee-eaters are active along the Zambezi River. One of the biggest colonies in southern Africa breeds on the main river bank close to Kalimbeza Island. Between 3 000 to 5 000 birds are estimated to congregate there during those months – a sight to behold!

The Zambezi Region is often seen as a mere overnight stop on the way to neighbouring attractions like Victoria Falls. But it is very much a destination in its own right. The perennial rivers and expansive floodplains, lush tropical vegetation and absolute abundance of game and birds creates a surprising contrast to the rest of the country. The more time one spends there, the more one can really experience all the treasures the Zambezi Region has to offer. Boat trips on the rivers provide exciting opportunities to view hippos, elephants and crocodiles, as well as scores of antelope. Fishing, especially tiger fishing, is a popular activity. Local villages and settlements are vibrant with life and visitors have the opportunity to take home baskets and wooden ornaments skilfully made by hand, or visit living museums to learn about ancient and modern traditions. This wild and adventurous destination is surprisingly accessible. Two tarred highways provide easy access to lodges and sights. The parks should only be entered with 4x4 vehicles. For guests without those, most lodges offer game drives which also means that you can enjoy the beautiful wildlife and scenery even more.

A dramatic contrast to the rest of Namibia, the wet and wild wilderness of Zambezi teems with life and exciting adventures. Now it’s up to you to go and experience it for yourself. TNN

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ACROSS THIS LAND OF ENDLESS HORIZONS DISCOVER

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Torra Bay Campsite

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Mile 72

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/Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa Boplaas Campsite

Etosha National Park

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Daan Viljoen Game Reserve

Waterberg Plateau Park

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SOUTH AFRICA

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ZIMBABWE

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Namibia Travel Tips

SEASONAL TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS

• The best time to visit Windhoek and the surroundings is between May and September when it is cooler and dry. In the rainy season from November to March it is hot and somewhat humid, sometimes with heavy rains.

• As for southern Namibia and the desert areas around Sossusvlei, it is best to avoid the summer months when temperatures can be extreme. Temperatures between May and September are generally milder and more comfortable, but keep in mind that it can be cold in winter, especially at night.

• The climate in Lüderitz and at the southern coast is hospitable from February to May, but quite cool all year round, and particularly windy in August.

• From October to March is the best time to visit the coastal towns of Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Henties Bay, as weather conditions are particularly pleasant compared to the hot interior. When dry easterly winds blow, however, it can also be very hot.

• To the north, the Skeleton Coast has much the same moderate weather, with mist, wind and very little or no rain all year round. For fishing enthusiasts, this area is at its best between November and March.

• In Kaokoland, a good time to visit is from May to August when it is cooler. The summer months bring extremely high temperatures and occasionally flash floods, as most of the scarce rain falls between January and March.

• The best time to visit Etosha is from April to September when the temperatures are tolerable, especially at night. This is also the best time for game viewing because animals flock to the waterholes to drink. For bird-watching, on the other hand, summer is more suitable, as scores of migratory birds arrive in the park after the summer rains.

• Summer is hot and humid in the Kavango and Zambezi regions in the northeast, but as in Etosha it is the best time for birdwatching. Rain and seasonal flooding may make some of the roads inaccessible, however. It is advisable to enquire about road conditions before embarking on a trip. April to October are the best time for game viewing in Zambezi. It is much cooler and drier then, with practically no rain.

• April and May are particularly pleasant months in Namibia. Usually the last rains of the season have fallen, the air is fresh and free of dust, and the land is green, vibrant and full of new life.

• During the winter months from June to August the whole country cools down and nights can be quite cold. As it becomes drier, the game in parks and reserves migrates to the waterholes and is easier to spot.

• By September and October temperatures rise again and game viewing in most areas is at its best, although there is often a lot of dust around and the vegetation has lost its vibrancy.

• November is a highly variable month. Sometimes the hot, dry weather will continue, at other times it might be humid, the sky will fill with clouds and the first thunderstorms and rains might occur.

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STAY CONNECTED

Most accommodation establishments offer WiFi to stay connected with friends and family or to share holiday photos on social media. It is recommended that visitors buy a sim card for possible emergencies on self-drives. Pay-as-you-go options are available from one of the local service providers. Cell phone coverage along main roads is good in general.

STAY SAFE

Namibia is one of the safest countries in Africa. However, like in the rest of the world, there are opportunists who can’t resist nabbing an unguarded wallet or camera. Use common sense, especially in the towns, and also be vigilant at night.

MALARIA

• Namibia is a summer rainfall area with high temperatures, humid conditions in places and standing bodies of water, an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes.

• Malaria is still the number-one killer disease in Africa, so be sure to take prophylaxis if you are visiting areas north of Windhoek, especially during the rainy season and well into winter. In years of increased and prolonged rainfall, the risk of catching malaria is also higher for a longer period of time.

• Rub or spray on some mosquito deterrent and wear long sleeves, long trousers and socks if sitting outside in the evening. Sleep under a mosquito net whenever possible.

• Consult your family doctor before leaving home. Some prophylactic regimes need to be started before your departure. Should you become ill on your return home, tell your doctor that you have visited a malarial area.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

• Decide on the gear you want to use before you leave home. Carefully select the lens or lenses to avoid lugging tons of equipment around on your holiday.

• Bring enough memory cards or download your images regularly.

• Pack a second battery or two and don’t forget to charge batteries whenever possible; especially when camping you won’t always have the luxury of electricity. Since you will spend a great deal of time on the road, a car charger can be very useful.

• Don’t skimp on a good camera bag for your expensive gear.

• Research the area that you will be visiting and establish which type of animals or birds you can expect to see or what kind of sights to photograph.

• Find out about sunrise and sunset times and the phases of the moon.

• Golden hour usually makes for the best images. You will be surprised how beautiful and soft the landscape becomes just before sunset compared to the harsh, unforgiving light of midday.

• When you stay at a place for more than one day – plan your shots to make sure you get the best of the light and the environment.

• A simple dust blower is a lightweight and an essential piece of equipment for a quick clean.

CAMPING TIPS

• Never camp too close to a natural spring or a waterhole in case you prevent wild animals from reaching this precious resource.

• Avoid camping in worn wildlife paths; especially stay clear of those used by elephants.

• Keep campfires small, and be extremely cautious not to start a wildfire.

• At campsites, be considerate of other guests and keep the noise level to a minimum, especially when getting up early in the morning to leave while others are still sleeping.

• Do not pitch camp in dry riverbeds during the rainy season. Rivers that have been dry for most of the year tend to start flooding unexpectedly and can quickly turn into raging torrents. Often it rains many kilometres away and the unwary traveller may have no clue of what is coming.

DRIVING TIPS

• Make sure that you drive with the correct tyre pressure on gravel roads. High tyre pressure can affect handling your vehicle and, coupled with speed, can cause accidents.

• Gravel roads are dusty. If you drive too closely behind another car, your visibility will be limited. Never overtake in dusty conditions.

• Always keep your headlights switched on to be visible to oncoming vehicles.

• Know how to change a tyre. Punctures can occur on gravel roads and jeep tracks. In remote areas you may have to wait for help for hours if you can’t change a flat.

• Avoid driving at night. Game is difficult to spot in the dark, and in rural areas cattle may be crossing the road.

• Always take enough water – to drink, but also for emergencies like refilling your radiator in the unlikely event that your car overheats.

• Take it easy. Namibian roads are for sightseeing not for speed. With so much beautiful ever-changing scenery to marvel at, don’t rush from one place to the next. Plan ahead to make sure you have enough time to reach your destination in daylight. Stop regularly and take in Namibia’s amazing landscapes.

PHOTOGRAPHING PEOPLE

• Always ask before taking a photo of a person, especially in rural areas. Approach people gently, greet them and ask if you may take their picture. It is always a good idea to explain who you are, what you want to do with the photo and what made you interested in taking it in the first place. This will help to quell suspicion, avoid confrontation and build trust. Who knows, it could even land you a new friend.

• You can get an immediate and intimate look into someone’s life when you see them at work. By asking people about their work, they will talk more candidly and are usually more willing to have their photos taken. Plus, workplaces have built-in props that help people feel more relaxed and give them something to do with their hands.

• If someone refuses your request to take a photo, either verbally, by turning away or running for cover, move on and find another subject. This might mean that you may not get the photo you wanted, but do not try and sneak a photo of someone who has made it clear that they don’t want to have it taken. Nevertheless sneaking one builds mistrust and anger towards future travellers. Remember, there will be other opportunities in other places.

• It is not necessary to ask permission when you want to take photos at a cultural village, at a cultural performance or on a pre-arranged photographic tour. To be on the safe side, check with your guide or local companion first.

• Children are generally happy to oblige a foreign photographer. The most powerful images are often the ones where children are not posing at all but are involved in some activity. However, before taking a photo of a child it is very important to ask a parent and receive permission. Remember to treat the people you are visiting as you would want to be treated in your home.

• If possible, try to send a copy of the picture to the person you have photographed. While it is difficult to send printed copies, especially to people in rural areas, these days most people own smartphones or have a relative or friend who owns one and is on some form of social media. Be sure to take these contact details in order to send them their photos.

• It is illegal to take photos of men and women in uniform, except during a public parade, or something similar. Otherwise, taking a picture of a police officer or soldier on duty is out of the question. TNN

SPACE AND Space

AND TIME & Time

Untouched landscapes spanning as far as the eye can see. An abundance of wildlife roaming free, as nature intended, over bushveld, desert and wetland. A world of birds brimming with sought-after endemic species, found nowhere else on the planet. To the novice this may seem like scenes from the Lion King. In Namibia it is commonplace. This enigmatic land – its fauna, flora and cultures – is no fable from a children’s book. Namibia is rugged, soulful, liberating and natural. Namibia is real, to be touched and treaded lightly, breathed into the crevices of your being, seen, smelled and savoured in a way only time and space can allow.

In Namibia we say that once the sand of the world’s oldest desert has filled your shoes, it will remain there forever. Because there is so much to explore, from the parched plains of the deep south, to the fruitful forests of the north and every awe-inspiring vista in between. It seems impossible to trek the second-least populated country in the world in the span of a two-week holiday. It is possible, but rushing through Namibia is not recommended. This is why lovers of Namibia return to this vast country time and time again. And why locals take their time on long weekends to cover only a small nook of Namibia. They do so to mindfully embrace every precious moment, every exhilarating bird sighting ticked off the list, every technicolour sunset, every dusty gravel road negotiated at a snail’s pace. This is how Namibia is intended to be experienced – thoroughly and without hurry.

Right hand held flat, thumb outstretched and index finger folded, that is the shape of Namibia, perhaps the only country the world over that can be indicated with a single hand. Yet, neither our returning guests nor well-travelled locals can truly know Namibia like the back of their hand. Its kaleidoscope of lines, veins, beauty spots and wrinkles is plentiful, but consider this a challenge to uncover, rather than an adventure to be missed.

In the proverbial thumb of Namibia, the Zambezi and Kavango regions, time becomes irrelevant and existence unhurried. The northernmost part of Namibia will pleasantly surprise perceptions of a desert country. Perennial rivers outline these regions and are an essential part of the local lifestyle. Caprivians and Kavango people engage in fishing and farming, both produce and livestock, on the bountiful banks of the waterways – the Kwando, Linyanti, Chobe and Zambezi as well as the Okavango in the Kavango East and West regions.

Undoubtedly one of the most enriching wildlife experiences can be had in the northeast of Namibia. Here, our plains game and big cats meet the river residents: hippo, crocodile and migrating elephant. Paired with an impressive array of birds like the Carmine Bee-eater and African Fish Eagle, this makes for unforgettable sightings. A river cruise, at a leisurely pace, is the only way to truly savour the wonderland that defines the Zambezi and Kavango regions. Boats are obliged to move slowly, so as not to disrupt hippos and crocodiles, or the locals who navigate the rivers with their mokoro or watu (hand-

carved canoes). They have no engine and are manoeuvred with paddles or long poles. The fishermen take their time to position their nets perfectly. Great is the reward of a few small fish for their family’s dinner. Young men attentively herd cattle and goats alongside the streams, and gardens guarded by thick thornbush promise fresh tomatoes in due time.

In a country such as Namibia, in its regions like Zambezi and Kavango where time is not of the essence, patience rewards the unhurried traveller. Just like the Kwando, Linyanti, Chobe, Zambezi and Okavango rivers move slowly yet forcefully, so should a visit to their tributaries and streams be approached with patience, as if waiting for the crop to grow, the cattle to feed and calf, and the fish to bite.

Travelling southwest from the Zambezi Region to Etosha National Park is on a long winding road. More time spent on some of the best-maintained roads in Africa leads to another remarkable wildlife wonder within the borders of Namibia. Favoured and well-photographed for the contrasts against its white expanses, dotted with mopane and acacia trees and boasting an abundance of birds, antelope, black and white rhino, elephant and elusive big cats, Etosha National Park needs little introduction. This is yet another place where more time is spent well.

Due to the speed limit within the park, a slower pace is not only mandatory, it is favourable. Switch off the car engine, let the stark-white dust settle, and then you wait. The very best place to become unhurried is at a waterhole in Etosha, where good things truly come to those who wait. The longer you sit and stare through a pair of binoculars, camera viewfinder, paging through a copy of Roberts Bird Guide or Travel News Namibia, animal sightings favour the patient. Just a moment longer and you might witness a waterhole quarrel between lion and rhino, or a giraffe finally mustering the courage to bend down for a drink. Direct your gaze towards the trees and perhaps spot a brilliantly camouflaged owl nest, an Anchieta’s cobra or even a stealthy cheetah lying in wait for her turn. You can pick up the subtle nuances of animal behaviour only if you unhurry yourself.

While a journey through Etosha National Park can easily take up at least a week of a traveller’s itinerary, there is so much more of Namibia’s 824,292 km² to uncover. Part and parcel of the joy of experiencing Namibia are the seemingly endless

roads, like the map of lines on the back of our hands. Take the road less travelled and discover that not a single car may pass you by for kilometres on end. This is just a taste of the infinite expanses, the soul-shaking space that is Namibia.

The region northwest of Etosha is arguably one of the most rugged, untouched landscapes on the continent: Kaokoland. Dissected by dry rivers lined by jackalberry, Ana and fever trees, and characterised by jagged mountain landscapes, deserted plains dotted with sharp outcrops and some of the last, authentic strongholds of the Ovahimba people. Those who dare to venture to this forlorn place will be rewarded with solitary space, enough of it to circumvent the earth and reach your soul.

Before entering Kaokoland, travellers must stock up on sufficient amounts of food, fuel and water to be selfsustainable for the duration of the trip. In its area of over 40,000 km² there is little to no cellphone reception, and the small shops in the heart of Kaokoland sell only the essentials – porridge and beer. Absolute bliss for the claustrophobic and for travellers in search of untamed adventure. The only sentient life in this furrowed landscape is a population of free-roaming desert-adapted elephant and lion and sparsely scattered giraffe, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, gemsbok and springbok. This seemingly inhospitable part of Namibia is also home to groups of traditionally nomadic Ovahimba people who still live in small villages with pastoral livestock and subsistence gardens, much like their ancestors did. Other than the occasional passerby on a similar thrilling adventure, the Ovahimba are the only people who share the expanse with travellers. Even their villages are spread over the vast stretches of Kaokoland. Space can be savoured by travelling through it, as much as it can by staying still. Build a shelter and call it home. With so much space, and enough time to absorb it, comes an inherent appreciation for the fauna, flora and people that inhabit it.

Save the air conditioning for another day, roll down your windows because there are no other vehicles to stir up dust, and breathe in the rolling hills, dales, riverbeds and distant peaks. The insurmountable landscape, the jeep track and the dizzying amount of space – they belong only to you, and the occasional Ovahimba village.

The south of Namibia has yet another example of perfectly uninhabited expanses – Namib-Naukluft National Park. Silk-like dunes in crescent and star shapes, burnt orange plains and valleys, boulders and bergs. They all beckon to be admired. This liberating landscape was formed over aeons, and continues to shift. Around every corner is more of sublime nothing. Peer into forever, traverse it a little at a time, just to discover there is even more nothing beyond. Beside a campfire, under a brilliant belt in the Milky Way, this is where the space enfolds you, just enough to give your mind some much-needed room. Not to think. Leave that for the flight home. In the Namib, all that space, a lonesome gemsbok and occasional plant is what fills your mind, body and soul.

With whoever or however you go about it, provided you unhurry and let the vastness permeate you, a journey through this enigmatic land is bound to be a beautiful celebration of space and time well spent. TNN

Nature First 30

On behalf of the wild places and their wild denizens we extend our humble and gracious appreciation for the support of our delightful guests, partners, colleagues and agents as we celebrate the first three decades of placing Nature First during 2023. Thank you. We’re equally as excited and energised as we were back in 1993 to continue supporting nature to thrive and prosper for the next 30 years. And the 30 that follow. And so on, ad infinitum

Nature first.

Naukluft HIKING THE

120 kilometres in eight days

Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk

I’m not a hiker. Yet, here I find myself lifting my ridiculously heavy backpack onto my back for the first time on the morning before the start of an eight-day-long hike. The weight of the backpack immediately triggers the question: why am I doing this?

Ihave been fascinated by the Naukluft Mountains since my first visit to the park many years ago. This seemingly inhospitable mountain complex on the doorstep of the great Namib Sand Sea is surprisingly full of plants, birds and wildlife, thanks to numerous natural springs. Yet, very little of the Naukluft can be seen by the casual visitor. The only access road for tourists leads directly to the NWR Naukluft Camp. This is by no means an attempt to restrict vehicle traffic, as anyone who has flown over or driven on any of the roads (C19, C14 and D854) that form a circular route around the mountains can attest to. The extremely rugged terrain makes it a really unfriendly place for vehicles.

The only way to explore the park is on foot. There are two short one-day hikes, the Olive and Waterkloof trails. Then there is the eight-day trail that covers 120 kilometres on a circular route – with the option to do only the first four days of the hike. Once I heard of the epic eight-day hike, it immediately went onto my bucket list. I must admit, at no point did I think about the actual hiking part, but was simply very much drawn by the excitement of exploring a remarkable area that very few people ever get to see.

Fast forward to April this year and I find myself on the eve of a bucket list adventure, completely unaware of what awaits over the next few days, and mentally unprepared for it. Luckily my friends Quinton, Lynne, Roland, Sarah, Jess and Toast are all avid hikers, so I was in good hands.

DAY 1 - PEOPLE DO THIS FOR FUN?

Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, we’re all up at the crack of dawn. I sense a bit of nervous energy as no one knows what exactly to expect over the next eight days. Backpacks are fiddled with and some last items are added or removed. Even the experienced hikers, i.e. everyone but myself, exude a sense of tenseness mixed with excitement. Pretty oblivious to what is happening with the rest, I stuff some last snacks into my bag and try it on fully loaded for the first time. I let out a loud phew as the full force of the weight almost upends me. “It will get lighter as the food and snacks get less,” I assure myself.

Our campsite packed up, cars parked in the shade, we fasten our backpacks and start to follow the trail markers down into the Naukluft River. Moving south towards the border of the park, the first section is fairly easy going. The first ascent is where the reality of the next eight days hits me partially. Having walked for only a couple of hours, my unfit legs already feel the climb going up a rather steep gradient which leads to a well-worn mountain zebra path that runs along the contour of the southernmost part of the Naukluft Mountains. It occurs to me that this may be a bit tougher than I thought. Apart from some slippery bits, the first day is quite stunning. The vistas below are striking and on the highest elevations of the trail, viewpoints offer spectacular vistas of the Tsaris Mountains to the south.

Our first lunch stop was at the first of the natural springs on the trail in the shade of a large ficus tree. Roland had a liedown on a large lower branch. An idyllic scene until we got ready to leave and noticed the two-something-metre black mamba quietly moving among the higher branches.

So perfectly camouflaged that when it didn’t move it was almost impossible to tell apart from the tree's limbs.

After lunch, life was a struggle. The zebra path seemed neverending. After every bend there was another, stretching into the distance. As the afternoon wore on it became more and more mentally challenging. The group split up into separate pairs, each going at their own pace and conversation drying up as the heat of the late April day took its toll. Trapped in your own mind, you know there is no turning back or giving up – the only way is forward. And so you put one foot in front of the other. I remember thinking: “People do this for fun?”

Finally, just before sunset, a valley opened up in front of us and the Putte Shelter came into view. What a relief after a long day’s walk. The first shelter is named Putte because of the well nearby. The well is equipped with a large round hand-pump for obtaining water.

DAY 2 - DOWN WE GO

The first section of day 2 is an undemanding walk across an undulating plateau. A pleasant start after the tough day before. After a couple of hours we reach the impressive Ubusis Kloof. Massive rock faces on both sides and polished rock plates give evidence of the masses of water that once flooded down the river. A spectacular sight to behold, except that if this river does flood and you are caught in it, there is no escape.

The massive overhang of the cave at Cathedral Spring signals the start of the descent. Several chains have been anchored at points that would otherwise be extremely difficult to negotiate with a large backpack. Certain sections are quite high and caught us a bit off-guard as we weren’t expecting the climb down to be this intense. But steady as she goes – we all made it safely to the bottom of the valley.

The Ubisis hut used to be a holiday cottage before the land was acquired for the park and is now the overnight stop. According to the map given to us at reception, it “is a complete surprise to the unsuspecting hiker.” Unfortunately, it wasn’t a good surprise. Because the road has been washed away, the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism is unable to reach the area by vehicle. The hut wasn’t in good shape inside and there was no water. Before setting out we were notified that the solar pump wasn’t working, but luckily, because of the good rain earlier in the year, we found a spring not far from the hut.

On the recommendation of my friends I had bought pre-packaged dehydrated meals, even though I was sceptical about the taste of these powdery-looking provisions with exotic names like Mediterranean chicken with olives and creamy parmesan chicken. The first night’s meal was average, but I was so tired it was mostly just a simple refuelling exercise. However, when I hydrated a chilli con carne for night two, I was quite surprised that this meal tasted much worse than the night before. Not knowing better and thinking that this brown watery mess at the bottom of my fire bucket was supposed to taste stale, I finished half of it before asking the others if these meals should taste like slightly spiced mouldy ceiling boards. Turns out it was stale and I just thought it was supposed to taste that way. It is supposed to have the texture of a soggy ceiling board but shouldn’t taste as such. You live and learn, I guess.

DAY 3 - BACK UP WE GO

Feeling strong after surviving the first two days and getting into the rhythm of things, the hike from here on became more and more enjoyable.

The day starts with a slog back up the Ubusis River and then up the same chains to get to the top of the kloof. The ascent is easier as you can see where you are climbing. The rest of the day is quite uneventful apart from spotting some mountain zebras as the trail follows an easy route across the plateau to the Adlerhorst Shelter.

DAY 4 - THE FEAST

Starting on fairly level terrain, the first section of the day was reasonably easy going. As the trail turned down the Tsams River, the sand and loose rocks slowed the pace. After a couple of kilometres, the trail veers off to the right as a massive tufa waterfall blocks the way down. To

bypass this section you have to climb a very steep hill. After suffering the leg burns of the climb we were met with a stunning view across the valley below. The dunes of the Namib are just visible on the horizon.

The trail winds steeply down back to the river, and the descent takes a while because it is slippery. Down below, ficus trees and numerous springs make it a pleasant walk.

We are excited to get to the Tsams Ost Shelter where fresh supplies and more importantly, cold beer, are waiting for us. As there is road access to the shelter, you can arrange a resupply run on Day 4 with NWR for a small fee. After a quick exchange of our garbage and dirty clothes for food, fresh clothes, steaks and beer we waved goodbye to the NWR employees, the last people we’d see for the next four days.

With a couple of cold ones and delicious steaks, we feasted like kings – a welcome break to reenergise the spirits.

DAY 5 - NO REGRETS

Day 5 starts with a climb, a big one called Broekskeur. Immediately sweating out the small “taste of the good life” we had the night before. Was the night before worth the struggle today? Yes! It definitely was. No regrets.

The next part of the trail traverses undulating terrain, with some of the ascents a strain on our tired legs after the early morning climb. This section gives me a front seat on the rollercoaster of emotions. Coming down each slope I feel strong and ready to walk long distances. I can look around and appreciate the beautiful quiver trees and euphorbias dotting the hillsides. Going up my mind swings the other way and I wonder why I am doing this to myself. Eyes fixed on the ground in an effort to make it over the hill.

The day turned out to be quite eventful as Toast’s sole parted ways with the rest of his hiking boot. With some crafty tying of his laces, he was somehow able to keep the sole stuck to the bottom of his boot. Stopping every now and then to readjust the laces. Not the best fix, but it did the trick and, remarkably, Toast was able to finish the hike with the broken footwear.

As a result of the boot incident we briefly lost Lynne. She took the wrong trail but luckily kept her cool and retraced her steps – all is well that ends well.

After suffering the leg burns of the climb we were met with a stunning view across the valley below. The dunes of the Namib are just visible on the horizon.

After a long day, we arrived at Die Valle Shelter. Much to our frustration the 10 000 litre water storage tank was empty. Of this we had not been warned before the hike. Fortunately, a spring was close by.

DAY 6 - SLOW GRIND UP RIVER

A brief hike takes us to the incredible 200-metre-high Die Valle Waterfall. Covered in a thin film of water, this waterfall must be quite a sight when it has water cascading down the massive drop.

The trail leads up a steep climb and then follows a contour path that leads to the top of the waterfall. Beautiful crystal clear pools of water await as well as views for days.

From here the trail follows the narrow gorge carved by the river and it continues

to gain altitude, eventually leading to its catchment area. While the scenery was stunning, the going was tough. The river has washed away all the sand, leaving only loose rocks that make for difficult and slow progress. All of us were happy to finish this section. The rest of the trail winds its way down the Arbeit Adelt Valley to Tufa Shelter.

DAY 7 - WHO WANTS AN EXTRA 10KG

Despite the strain of six days of tough hiking behind us, we wake up in good spirits. This day had been in the back of everyone’s mind since the beginning of the hike. The MEFT ranger informed us that our destination for the day, Kapok Shelter, has no water. As it is on the plateau there are no springs either. Luckily a 10-litre bladder was delivered to us on resupply day. The problem is, that 10 litres of water is 10

kilograms of extra weight. It also fills a bulky bag; we had to figure out how to carry it.

The plan was simple: everyone would refill their bottles regularly from the bladder to finish it as soon as possible. In that way we should still have enough water for the night as well as the next day’s hike. Taking turns to carry the bladder, Toast volunteers for the first leg and after passing some of his possessions around to make space in his backpack for the water, we are off.

The bladder quickly gets depleted as the morning goes by. Only two people carry it before it is empty.

The day begins with a steep ascent up a complicated kloof. Chains are placed at some of the steepest sections. The last

chain takes us up a tricky bit where you have to scramble up the vertical wall of a dry waterfall.

Back on the plateau we reach Bakenkop, a viewpoint from where you can see the Tsondab River valley some 600 metres below. The rest of the way towards Kapokvlakte is relatively flat.

The last night is bitter-sweet. The beauty of the Naukluft Mountains exceeded all my expectations and after calling them home for a week, it was hard to say goodbye. Yet, we are also yearning to give our bodies a rest and embrace the simple comforts usually taken for granted.

DAY 8 - WE MADE IT

The 16 kilometres of the final day go by relatively quickly. The trail is fairly easy and makes a large bend on the eastern edge of the Naukluft massif, offering stunning views toward Rietoog. It eventually descends into the Naukluft River by way of a tributary. From the Naukluft River you join up with the Waterkloof Day Trail. After a final dip in one of the pools, we head to the restaurant for a well-deserved celebratory meal.

Although an eight-day hike may be extreme for most people, a visit to this fascinating part of the Namib-Naukluft National Park is highly recommended to any nature lover. Surprisingly few people know that these mountains are the origin of the Naukluft part of the Namib-Naukluft. By just doing one of the two daytrails you will be able to experience some of the beauty and the bounty of nature found in this mountain complex. It is extremely rich in plant diversity. Over 400 plant species have been recorded, among them quite a few endemics. Wildlife includes mountain zebra, springbok, klipspringer, leopard, hyena and kudu as well as over 200 bird species and a multitude of rodents, lizards and insects. The geology and formation of the Naukluft is fascinating, but I won’t even try to explain it here.

Having skipped the baby steps and jumped onto the adult ride, I think it is fair to call myself a hiker now. TNN

ESSENTIAL KIT:

• Foldable bucket – It is convenient to have a container for water needs when overnighting rather than using water bottles and constantly having to refill.

• Gaiters (sock savers) – There was a lot of grass and having the seeds in your socks will drive you mad.

• GPS – Although well marked, the high grass obstructed some of the markers on the trail. Having a GPS is always good in any event, especially in emergencies.

• Duct tape – It can temporarily fix most things and would have solved Toast’s boot problem more efficiently.

KHAUDUM The Ultimate Wilderness

Khaudum National Park offers an unforgettable and authentic wilderness experience for adventurous travellers seeking solitude in one of Namibia's most remote corners. Its deep, loose sandy tracks and large herds of elephants are legendary, and the park attracts a breed of intrepid travellers.

On a recent visit to Khaudum, I decided to explore the southern half of the park from the comfort of Sikereti Camp. It reopened in July 2022 after it was closed officially in March 2019 and discouraged for use as far back as 2015 because of its dilapidated state.

If you prefer sleeping under the stars, there are four spacious campsites, each with washing-up facilities, hot water showers (donkey-fired), wash basins and flush toilets. Visitors seeking luxury in the bush can opt for the self-catering en-suite safari tents, each with a wooden deck and a braai place. In keeping with Khaudum’s wilderness atmosphere, the camp is unfenced.

To ensure that the protection of wildlife and the support of rural communities go hand in hand, the privately operated

camp collects a 6% concession fee on behalf of the Khaudum North Complex Conservancy and the Gciriku Traditional Authority.

The game-viewing experience in Khaudum has been enhanced by viewing platforms at nearly all the waterholes in the park. Water reservoirs have been built to relieve the congestion of elephants, while separate drinking places for other species are also provided.

As the temperatures were fairly chilly, the game tended to drink later in the day than during the hot summer months. So I set off on a leisurely drive to one of the viewing platforms with some snacks, binoculars, a camera and a bird book after a hearty brunch. At the viewing platform I simply bided my time to watch the passing parade of animals. Then, around mid-afternoon, I made my way to another waterhole and waited for the animals to show up.

The highlight was undoubtedly an afternoon visit to Tsoanfontein where a pack of six African wild dogs was lying in the shade of the viewing platform. Khaudum is the heartland of one of the largest roan populations in southern Africa and several of these iconic antelopes showed up during the afternoon.

Text & Photographs Willie Olivier

The park attracts over 4,000 elephants during the dry season – that is more than one elephant per square metre. Clouds of dust in the distance signalled the approach of herd after herd of elephants. I counted more than 100 in one herd. Attracted by the smell of a kudu carcass in the waterhole, a lone spotted hyaena made its appearance with an opportunistic blackbacked jackal in tow. But, on becoming aware of the wild dogs, the hyaena beat a hasty retreat. Then, another highlight followed – a honey badger approached the waterhole with its characteristic jog-trot.

During my three-day visit, I ticked 16 mammal species on my checklist. In addition to the species already mentioned, I added kudu, giraffe, steenbok and warthog (all common). Blue wildebeest, gemsbok, eland and common impala (restricted to the south of the park) were among the other species I saw, as well as a few small mammal species.

Although game-viewing is an integral part of a visit to Khaudum, it is its wilderness atmosphere that makes a visit so special. The silence, solitude and the anticipation of always expecting the unexpected is what draws intrepid travellers back time after time. Khaudum’s tracks are less travelled and the only congestion you might experience is a herd of elephants crossing ahead of you. But be warned: Khaudum is not for the faint-hearted! TNN

KHAUDUM FAST FACTS

• The tracks in the south of the park are mostly hard surface or slightly sandy, while the tracks north of Dussi and Tari Kora waterholes are deep sand requiring four-wheel-drive and tyres to be deflated.

• Overnight facilities are available at Sikereti in the south and Xaudum campsite in the north.

• It is highly advisable that parties should consist of at least two four-wheel drive vehicles. You might be in for a very long wait before help arrives, should you experience a breakdown or an emergency.

• It is not recommended to tow a trailer, even if it has the same track width as the towing vehicle, least of all in the deep sand in the northern section of the park. You might also need to reverse when confronted by an elephant.

• Fuel is available at Tsumkwe, 52 km from the southern park gate. From Khaudum Gate in the north it is a 46 km drive through deep, loose sand to the B8. Fuel is available at Divundu (90 km east of Katere) and at Rundu (120 km west of Katere).

CONSERVATION CRISIS:

Imagine travelling the lengths of this planet, enduring long layovers, leg cramps and perhaps a chair-kicking child – all worth it for that highly anticipated moment when the wheels of a steel bird touch the tarmac and you are on African soil. A sigh of relief. Your holiday has just begun and you are undoubtedly off to the far corners of Namibia in search of rugged landscapes, natural wonders and untamed wildlife.

Text Charene Labuschagne

You are sure to find breathtaking scenery, mountain ranges, valleys, bushveld and desert. But where are all the untamed animals National Geographic told you about? In this scenario, they are in captivity posing for selfies.

There are roughly 16 threatened or endangered mammal species found in Namibia. This list includes both black and white rhino, African elephant and lion, giraffe, as well as leopard and cheetah. We can agree that these few mammals are quintessential to the safari experience and sighting at least one of them in their natural habitat is on almost everyone’s bucket list.

Due to their endangered nature, many of these animals are in captivity. In the case of orphaned rhino calves, many of whom lost their life givers to poaching, their captivity is (or should be) for the purpose of raising and rehabilitation. Many mature rhinos are also in captivity and kept under close surveillance to help protect them against poaching. Cheetah and leopard, on the other hand, are often captured wild and relocated to captivity for posing threats to the local livestock farming industry. Instead of hunting the animals, they are sent to wildlife reserves. Additionally, many wild cats are rescued from the exotic pet trade and given a home in sanctuaries. Cheetahs

In the last two years (read pandemic), the tourism industry in Namibia and the world at large have been clutching at straws to rehabilitate a sector that is the bread and butter of so many households and individuals. We have had the opportunity to reevaluate the sustainability of our tourism model and make necessary changes to the way we operate. Unfortunately, some organisations have resorted to offering unique animal encounters in an attempt to sustain the large amounts of food the animals consume and roaming space they require, subsequent to keeping up with our times of Instagram-worthy experiences.

Proximity-based activities currently offered in Namibia include physically interacting with rhinos, like sitting on their backs. Petting or walking with wild cats is also common, hand feeding giraffes is gaining popularity, and images of people hugging baboons frequently feature on social media. While elephant encounters such as riding and bathing are not on our roster just yet, the trend suggests it is the next species to fall victim to such activities. These activities require wild animals to become accustomed to human interaction, and their availability for tourists and locals alike can only be defined as unethical wildlife tourism.

have a hard time breeding in the wild, causing their population to plummet, and because it is highly illegal to breed them in captivity, the species has reached a sort of genetic bottleneck as more enter nature reserves.

In isolated cases, animals in captivity require human interaction. Rhino calves, for instance, need to be fed and nurtured by humans in order to survive the lack of their mother’s milk. Mature rhino often have rangers by their side, or nearby, armed and prepared to defend the animal in a poaching situation. Some might require medical attention, justifying otherwise unnatural human interaction.

There are however, no other reasons for wild captive animals to be intentionally tamed. They definitely should not be habituated when their captivity is under the condition they be rehabilitated and released. As you can imagine, it is merely impossible to authentically reintroduce wild animals to their free roaming, natural state when they have become accustomed to human interaction. Wildlife rehabilitation means aiding injured, orphaned, displaced or distressed animals to survive when they are released back into their native habitats. Providing medical care, arranging suitable release sites and humanely resolving human-wildlife conflicts is the backbone of rehabilitation efforts. Part of this effort is to undo the processes that make the animal encounterable and reinstalling a fear for humans in order for it to be successfully and safely released.

Namibia’s conservation efforts have fostered the founding of game reserves in order to safeguard our abundant wildlife. It is under particular circumstances that wild animals are kept captive. Custodians of Namibian conservation strive to maintain the free-roaming nature of our fauna. The very last thing we want for our tourism and wildlife industry is to morph into a zoo, the likes of which is known to sedate, constrain and inhumanely handle animals for photo opportunities.

Not all sanctuaries are created equal. There are accreditation organisations like the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries (GFAS) that evaluate the practices and operations of animal rescue centres with strict protocol on environment, activities and handling. Unfortunately their evaluation and greenlighting has yet to reach Namibia, making it everyone’s individual responsibility to research and question the operations of reserves and sanctuaries.

Often, close encounters are marketed in the interest of conservation education. The sanctuary would sell the experience of engaging and taking photos with endangered captive animals, and the funds raised are said to sustain their maintenance and research. When an individual snaps a shot of a captive wild animal and shares it on social media, there is an opportunity to educate people on the conditions of their captivity, their conservation status and the valuable research conducted by the sanctuary. While the availability of these

When it comes to conserving wildlife and the environment, it’s more important to be outspoken than unspoken.

- Paul Oxton

DON'T

encounters makes it possible to keep endangered animals in safer environments, this message rarely comes across to the masses in a selfie snapped in isolation and taken out of context. The comment section is flooded with messages of envy, attraction and the word ‘cute’ and the experience is chased by a whole slew of people craving a photo opportunity. The chances of sharing valuable information are negligible.

You may not consider yourself an influencer, but even a handful of followers, when exposed to an image of riding a rhino or walking a cheetah, are directly influenced. Close contact is made desirable and safety is assumed. Whether you have 40 or 40 thousand followers, they see your experience and may venture to replicate it without the education and resources to know any better. Pictures of people interacting with endangered animals are not a prerequisite to engaging individuals in wildlife education. On the contrary: images of contact-based encounters, no matter how well intentioned, promote unethical wildlife tourism.

Regardless of how docile a wild animal appears, their instincts are innate and accidents do happen. Not if, but when a wild animal becomes distressed from human interaction and harms someone challenging their boundaries, the animal bears the brunt and may be euthanized for threatening the human’s life. In 2016, one day after his 17th birthday, the male silverback gorilla Harambe was shot and killed at the Cincinnati Zoo after a three-year-old climbed into the animal’s enclosure.

The images we share on social media have a direct impact on the way our audiences perceive wildlife, their suitability for close human interaction as well as their conservation status. In a survey conducted in 2018, researchers asked members of the general public to view four images of wild cats in different settings and respond on the desirability of interacting with the animal, its conservation status and its suitability as a pet. When shown an image of a wild cat being petted by a human, respondents were more than twice as likely to perceive the animal as fit to be photographed with tourists, compared to being shown an image of a wild cat in its natural habitat.

Often when people posting images of unethical wildlife tourism are confronted, they defend their post by claiming the interaction was consensual, that the animal was not visibly

distressed and that they may have willingly approached the person in question. That is a condition of their captivity, however, and completely unnatural. If you feed a wild animal out of the palm of your hand often enough, they are sure to approach in the future because in their mind ‘human equals food’. This is termed baiting, and it is counterintuitive to a wild animal’s rehabilitation. To the untrained eye, behaviour of this nature may come across as harmless, yet it is never in the interest of the animal. Not only do these activities perpetuate ideas of animals as performing spectacles, but subsequently bolster consumptive tourism regardless of ecotourism ideals. It harms their eligibility of ever being released and poses wild animals as catalysts of their own exploitation.

The two- and three-toed sloths of South America are captured by locals to pose for photos with tourists. Within a tour group, the animal is passed around and selfies are snapped day in and day out. When the sun sets and the tourists leave, the sloth is tied to a tree with rope, only for it to be untied and manhandled when the next group of visitors arrive. It is a matter of fact that the mere approach of humans as well as handling causes a significant rise in sloths’ blood pressure. These animals are favoured for their relaxed nature and face marking resembling a smile, which is often mistaken for comfort around us humans. The truth is, regardless of the visual cues given to us like approaching for food or staying around while we engage, we cannot know for certain that our presence is comforting to wild animals. It is best to respect their wild nature and avoid putting captive animals in stressful situations for a personal popularity contest and a couple of likes.

Fortunately, the surge in unethical wildlife tourism in Namibia is still reversible. Only a handful of locations currently offer proximity-based encounters, yet it is paramount to our collective conservation efforts that these activities be nipped in the bud, sooner rather than later. Organisations that sell these experiences might continue to do so, but as a travelling guest or adventure-hungry local you have the opportunity to keep them accountable. Rather than investing in unethical practices like photo opportunities or hand feeding, try looking into where you can donate to the research and development done by ethical wildlife trusts and foundations. An organisation’s website as well as their social media platforms will give you insight into whether their activity offering is ethical or not. Any

No matter how well intentioned, this promotes unethical wildlife tourism:

mention of interacting with captive wild animals should send off alarm bells. Additionally, have a look at the images they are tagged in. The sanctuary may not post selfies with their animals, but guests and volunteers who took part in unethical activities might tag the organisation’s profile.

During game drives and nature walks you can insist that a safe distance is kept from wild animals. Respected guides follow strict protocol when it comes to animal encounters, like rhino sightings. The guide will constantly evaluate the demeanour of the animal during an encounter and establish a window of time in which photos can be taken from a distance. As soon as the guide notices that the animal is disturbed by human presence the sighting and photo opportunity is concluded. No distance encounter with a free-roaming animal should last longer than 30 minutes. Not all guides follow these rules and might bargain on a tip for getting guests closer to a wild animal. If your guide veers off the track to chase a wild animal, or keeps you or the vehicle in proximity to an animal for an extended period of time, it is completely within your right to demand consideration for the landscape and free-roaming wildlife. You might be tempted to let it slide at the expense of a great photo or the desires of your tour group. Rest assured that speaking up in these compromising situations aids Namibia’s conservation efforts in tangible ways. The more guests insist on ethical practices, the less organisations will risk safety and conservation in the name of wildlife tourism.

There are good selfies, and then there are bad selfies. Researchers at World Animal Protection discovered a 292% increase in the number of wildlife selfies posted on Instagram between 2014 and 2017. When analysing the photos, 40% showed people ‘hugging, holding or inappropriately interacting’ with a wild animal. These are ‘bad selfies’. Although there is an incredibly blurry line between the good and the bad, better selfies feature no contact between the animal and human. In better selfies the animal is not

In their natural habitat, a safe distance is maintained from wildlife for an appropriate photograph:

restrained or held captive, they are in their natural habitat, and a safe distance is maintained.

Volunteers, vets and handlers have unique interactions with wild animals in their line of work. And while wildlife reserves depend on the donations from volunteers and respectable work of vets and handlers, it is in the best interest of conservation that these interactions are not abused for photo opportunities. Volunteers who offer their time and money to learn about rehabilitation and conservation in Namibia are vital to the maintenance of sanctuaries. It becomes a problem when their experience tending to orphaned and injured animals destined for rehabilitation is shared on social media, sending mixed messages of what people can expect and demand from animal encounters. As for vets who do valuable work on wild animals, photography is a great tool for documenting these procedures. There is an opportunity to educate people if they do wish to share it on social media. However, the captions of images on Instagram in particular are rarely read, so the very image itself must say everything it needs to. It has become far too simple to re-share a picture and have messages of conservation get lost in the bewilderment of an exotic encounter.

It comes as no surprise that in our increasingly digital age, the souvenirs we bring back from travels are photos – more than anything else. And what a wonderful souvenir it is to entice our friends, family and followers to invest in ethical wildlife tourism in Namibia. Perhaps the most important question to ask ourselves is why we need to feature in a photo with wild animals for it to be Instagram-worthy. What lengths are we willing to go to in order to tick sighting these threatened and endangered animals off our bucket list?

Namibia’s abundant wildlife in their natural habitat is already as picture perfect as it can get, so it is time we sacrifice the aesthetics, hold each other accountable and safeguard the free-roaming wildlife population for generations to come. Now THAT is Instagram-worthy! TNN

The ancient and unexpected: A journey into the infamous Skeleton Coast

One day the sun is bright, the wind a gentle breeze. The next is shrouded in fog and an eerie mystical ambiance. A pristine white beach stretches along the rumbling and rolling waters of the tumultuous Atlantic Ocean. The soft sandy slip faces of undulating dunes are an extreme juxtaposition to the rugged rock faces that border a dry river. Like monoliths that stand guard. An arid hinterland. Yet everywhere you look there is life. So many contrasts in a single paragraph. But that’s what this place, here at the edge of human existence, is made of. A dichotomy of harsh and soft. Of bright and mysterious. Of desolation and vibrant life. An ancient land largely uninterrupted by the visible influences left behind by humans, all but for the hundreds of crafts that dot the shores and desertscapes. Remnants of a bygone era where this turbulent coastline was the bane of seafarer existence and the last port of call for many an unlucky adventurer. That is Namibia’s Skeleton Coast.

Text & Photographs Elzanne McCulloch

Ihave travelled across most of this incredible country and have been lucky enough to visit the spectacular Skeleton Coast National Park on more than one occasion, but this was the first time I was able to make a family holiday of it. With my husband, mom and dad in tow, we set off to explore the pristine beauty of the park with a visit to Shipwreck Lodge. There are few places in the world that offer a more anti-COVID environment than Namibia, with its wide open spaces and its natural inclination towards social distancing by default. In fact, there is no place on this earth where I have felt more socially distant than in the Namib Desert, especially the northern stretch that forms part of Skeleton Coast National Park. Standing on the front deck of Shipwreck’s main cabin, I realise that besides the small contingent of travellers at the lodge, there is not another soul around for close to 100 km. With all this space, one can finally let go… and breathe.

TALES OF INFAMY

For centuries the Skeleton Coast has been shrouded in infamy. History books tell of great adventurers that sailed the seas in search of new worlds. Many made the voyage along the western rim of Africa, en route to destinations far east, but here, along the south-western parts of the continent, many met their doom. Namibia’s coastline stretches for more than 1,500 km from the Orange River in the south to the Kunene River in the north. Along these tumultuous shores are strewn what is estimated to be over 1,000 wrecks of ships and crafts that never reached those new worlds. The northern section of the country’s coastline and the desert landscapes inland make up Skeleton Coast National Park. From the Ugab River northward to the Kunene River, and some 70 km inland in certain places, this conservation area protects some of the most pristine and untouched desert and arid landscapes in the world. The wilderness within is home to a surprising abundance of life. Wildlife and flora adapted to the harsh climes can be found in the valleys and along the ephemeral rivers of the region. The area is largely untouched by destructive humankind, yet there is proof that man has ventured, whether on purpose or not, into this wilderness. One of the

park’s most captivating features is the collection of wrecked crafts dotted along its beaches as well as the countless animal, and even some human, skeletons found in the sands. Bleached a stark white by the elements, they are the namesakes of the park. The remains of vessels are more unassuming than what you may think when the term “shipwreck” comes to mind. The rocky shores and years of being pounded by the turbulent ocean waters have whittled them down to small segments and fragments of wood or metal – wisps of memories that allow history to live on. Stories of these ill-fated vessels have become a part of the area’s infamy. They stand sentinel along these lonely shores, warning others of the dangers of the treacherous, but beguiling Skeleton Coast.

A HAVEN AND HEARTH

“Completely unpredictable.” That’s the phrase my mother uses as we explore the assortment of paraphernalia on shelves and side tables and the cosy corners that make up the interior design of Shipwreck Lodge. She must have been expecting a typical Namibian lodge like so many others we have visited before. But this is not your grandfather’s safari camp. It’s stylised and eclectic yet somehow feels like home. Warm and cosy fireside lounge seats draped in luxurious textures for the misty days spent indoors with a good book and a glass of Merlot. Bright and happy light filtering through the oddly slanted windows, and deck chairs that beckon when the weather outside is gorgeous and the gin and tonics call almost as loudly as the incredible view spread out in front of the lodge. A contrast. Always. Shipwreck Lodge, with its ten cabins perched along a duneside, faces northwest and has views of both the Atlantic coastline and the ephemeral Hoarusib River. The cabins, as well as the main area, were designed to mimic the lodge’s eponymous stranded crafts. Keep your sea-legs ready as the inside of each cabin, portholes and all, will make you feel as if you are indeed on a vintage wooden vessel heading to a far-off land of adventure and new discoveries. The staff, who hail from villages in the Sesfontein and Purros conservancies, are always at the helm, ready with a smile and a beverage, or a wonderfully entertaining anecdote of what life is like in this far-flung corner of one of the world’s last untouched hinterlands.

Lion tracks

A POETRY OF EXTREMES

We depart on an early morning nature drive to explore the Hoarusib River. An ephemeral river, meaning it only carries surface water during certain wet times of year, the Hoarusib is home to a plethora of life. Tell-tale signs of springbok and gemsbok precede the actual sighting, and though we missed them on this particular trip, I have in the past been privy to exceptional experiences with the famous desert-dwelling elephants and lions in this iconic river’s environment. It is well known that Namibia is a geologist’s ultimate playground, and our guide is excited about all things volcanic and sedimentary. Enthralling ancient rock formations are clearly exposed in many areas along the river course, making it easy to marvel at these natural wonders. The Hoarusib Valley is home to some of the oldest geological formations in Namibia. The towering rock walls we see along the river on our excursion are millions of years old. The geological highlight of this drive is most certainly the Clay Castles, fine-grained clay deposits which have been shaped by erosion over the years. They are structurally fascinating and the view from the top, after a short climb, is otherworldly. The scene is reminiscent of the iconic image of Petra in Jordan. Yet here, in the furthest reaches of the Namibian wilderness, you won’t find Petra’s crowds. We take a moment atop this monument of clay, once again a striking contrast to the soft dunes sloping nearby, to absorb the poetry of texture, shadow and hues all around.

As the sun slowly dips toward the horizon, we explore the dunes from an even closer range. Over and alongside these majestic mountains of sand we glide on quad-bikes. Freedom like no other. The wind whizzing past as you see and feel the desert all around. Completely immersed in it. The soft pink hues of dusk and the dramatic red of the sun as it sinks into the Atlantic is the perfect crescendo to the symphony of a day spent breathing in nature, space, tranquility and freedom. We take only photographs and leave only footprints behind. The wind will have swept away the evidence of our adventure by dawn. The sun’s descent seems to slow down. Time has more languid dimensions in this place. Or perhaps that is just wishful thinking on our part. We never want this sunset to end… TNNI

IT TAKES A COMMUNITY

Shipwreck Lodge, which was built in a joint venture partnership with the Sesfontein and Purros conservancies, forms part of Namibia’s very successful Community Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme. The CBNRM programme, which came into effect shortly after independence, gives rural Namibians rights over their natural resources. Communities establish what is known as conservancies and manage their natural resources, including land. They are enabled to derive economic benefits for their members through tourism, conservation hunting and other activities and many have gone into joint venture partnerships with private companies to achieve these goals. The staff at Shipwreck Lodge are predominantly from villages within these conservancies, they know and understand the region well and have a vested interest in the success of tourism as a staple of their, and their communities’, livelihoods.

GETTING THERE

The journey to this desolate retreat is most certainly part of the adventure. Whether by land or air (no longer by sea!), the vast and contrasting dramatic landscapes of the park will enrapture you. Self-driving from Windhoek can take up to 9 hours, so, though the trip is very beautiful, it might be more practical to fly to Möwe Bay with a charter or scenic flight company, especially if you are strapped for time. From the pick-up point at Möwe Bay, the journey of one-and-a-half hours over dunes and along the shoreline will further entrench the notion that you are heading into a remote and secluded retreat.

Clay Castles

Simone Micheletti

Namibia’s Wettest

Wonderland

Cradled by the Kwando and Linyanti rivers at the Zambezi Region’s southernmost point, lies Namibia’s largest conserved wetland area, the 28,500-ha-large Nkasa Rupara National Park. Complex tectonic, climatic and hydrological events have shaped and reshaped the wetlands over countless aeons. The most dramatic change took place millions of years ago when uplift along the Linyanti Fault diverted the Kwando River into a northeasterly direction.

Text Willie Olivier Photographs Simone Micheletti

Since then, the fate of this extremely dynamic system has been at the mercy of the rainfall in the Kwando River’s catchment area in central Angola where it is known as the Cuando. No two seasons are the same. Blockages caused by sedimentation and dense reed beds or floating vegetation divert water into channels that have been waterless for decades, while channels that flowed only recently become dry unexpectedly. Hippos play a role in the constantly changing waterways by keeping channels open, while a termite mound built in a channel during a dry cycle can force the water to find another course. Peat beds act as sponges, releasing the water gradually during the dry season, but during dry cycles they become part of the floodplain grassland and are prone to peat fires.

The Kwando River usually peaks at Kongola in May/ June, but the water only reaches Nkasa Rupara several weeks later because of its meandering course and gentle gradient, while reeds, papyrus and floating vegetation also slows its flow. During very high levels, the water of the Kwando River flows along an intricate network of southeastward-flowing channels that dissect the grasslands and floodplains. Large areas are flooded when the channels overspill their banks.

During years of major flooding, such as the 2008/9 flood, up to 80% of the park is inundated, leaving only Nkasa and Rupara standing like islands amidst a vast expanse of water. Water flowing along the channels that dissect the floodplains transform the wetlands into a mosaic of lily-carpeted channels, vast reed beds, tranquil backwaters, pools and oxbow lakes. Large areas remained inundated until 2014 when the water began receding, but deep channels still prevented access to Nkasa Island many years later.

Wet cycles are periodically followed by dry cycles. Below-average flows of the Kwando River from 1991 to 2000 resulted in a dry cycle that lasted more than a decade. The floodplains were completely dry by 1994 and largely remained dry until the 2005 wet cycle started.

Simone Micheletti

Hippos play a role in the constantly changing waterways by keeping channels open, while a termite mound built in a channel during a dry cycle can force the water to find another course.

COMPLEX LINKAGES

Where the Kwando River makes an almost 90-degree turn northeast, its name changes to the Linyanti and at this point the Selinda Spillway links the Kwando River to the Okavango Delta. Water from the delta flowed into the Kwando for the first time in nearly 30 years during the exceptionally high floods of 2008/9, while water from the Linyanti also flowed into the Savuti Channel for the first time in nearly three decades.

During major floods, water from the Linyanti reaches the ephemeral Lake Liambezi which is also fed by water which flows along the Bukalo Channel which is linked to the Zambezi River. When full, the water flows into what is known as the Chobe River.

EXPLORING NKASA RUPARA

Nkasa Rupara is only accessible in a four-wheeldrive vehicle and large areas are inaccessible after high floods. Travelling parties should consist of a minimum of two vehicles and carry recovery equipment in case of an emergency.

Camping is not permitted in the park, but there are several campsites just a few kilometres from the park entrance:

• Rupara Restcamp, 3 km north of the park entrance, is managed on behalf of the Wuparo Conservancy. It has campsites with communal ablutions, campsites with own ablutions and selfcatering chalets sleeping two people and a family chalet. Tel: 066 686 101; email: info@rupara.com

• Nkasa Lupala Tented Camp, 1 km from the park entrance, is a joint venture between members of the Wuparo Conservancy and the owners, the Micheletti family. This eco-friendly lodge won the Responsible Tourism Award in 2016 and has been awarded five desert flowers (the highest ranking) by Eco Awards. Guests are accommodated in luxury tents, while the central area consists of the reception, dining room, lounge, bar and a viewing deck overlooking a channel. A variety of activities is offered. Tel: 066 68 6101; email: info@ nkasalupalalodge.com

• Jackalberry Tented Camp is situated in a concession area in the park, 13 km from the park entrance at Shishintze. Guests are accommodated in four luxury tents, while the main area, the double-storey Jackalberry Tower, accommodates the reception, dining area, lounge and bar with magnificent views over the grasslands. A variety of activities is offered. Tel: 061 25 0725; email: jackalberry@resdest.com

Maps: The Kavango-Zambezi National Parks map which covers the tracks in and around Rupara Island is indispensable.

NKASA RUPARA NATIONAL PARK

The park, originally named the Mamili National Park, was proclaimed in 1990, but renamed the Nkasa Rupara National Park after the two large, elevated areas (‘islands’) in 2012. It is a sanctuary to the largest buffalo population in Namibia, while large herds of elephant congregate on the islands of Nkasa and Rupara during the dry winter months. Red lechwe, waterbuck and reedbuck can be seen on the floodplains, while the elusive sitatunga occurs in dense papyrus stands. Plains zebra, blue wildebeest, impala, bushbuck, kudu, warthogs, vervet monkeys and baboons also roam this area.

Hippo and crocodiles abound in the Kwando River, oxbow lakes, backwaters and pools. The large predators are represented by two resident lion prides, leopard and spotted hyena. Serval and civet cat, two rather elusive carnivores, have also been recorded in the park.

The diversity of aquatic habitats, grasslands and patches of woodland supports a rich and varied birdlife. With a checklist of over 400 species, the park is one of the top birding spots in Namibia, among them endangered species such as the Southern Ground Hornbill, Wattled Crane, Slaty Egret, Rufous-bellied Heron and Saddle-billed Stork. The Black and Coppery-tailed Coucal, Swamp Boubou, Long-tailed Starling, Chirping Cisticola and Rosy-throated Longclaw are among the other noteworthy species. TNN

AgamaLodge www.agamalodge.com

BagatelleKalahariGameRanch www.bagatelle-kalahari-gameranch.com

CornerstoneGuestHouse www.cornerstoneguesthouse.com

CoronaGuestFarm www.coronaguestfarm.com

DivavaOkavangoResort&Spa www.divava.com

EtusisLodge www.etusis.de

FortSesfonteinLodge www.fort-sesfontein.com

FransIndongoLodge www.indongolodge.com

GeckoRidge www.geckoridge.com.na

GoibibMountainLodge www.goibibmountainlodge.net

HuabLodge www.huab.com

JackalberryTentedCamp www.jbcamp.com

KashanaNamibia www.kashana-namibia.com

KifaruLodge www.kifaruluxurylodge.com

LeMirageResort&Spa www.mirage-lodge.com

Namib'sValleyLodge www.namibsvalley.com

NdhovuSafariLodge www.ndhovu.com

NkasaLupalaTentedLodge www.nkasalupalalodge.com

OngulaVillageHomesteadLodge www.ongulalodge.com

OhangeLodge www.ohange.com

OtjiwaSafariLodge www.otjiwa.com.na

SerondelaLodge www.serondelalodge.com

SweetThornRetreat www.sweetthornretreat.com

THE ZAMBEZI REGION

Formerly referred to as the Caprivi, the Zambezi Region boasts a fertile wilderness of riverine forests, flood plains and open woodland created by a network of rivers and high summer rainfall. Providing access to three state-protected game reserves, the Zambezi is additionally your doorstep to the Victoria Falls and Chobe National Park.

Namibia’s eponymous Namib Desert lines the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean for more than 1 500 kilometres between South Africa in the south and Angola in the north. Almost right in the centre of this massive desert belt lies a cluster of towns: The port of Walvis Bay, quaint and historical Swakopmund and the retirement-slash-holiday resort of Henties Bay. These municipalities host some of the most exciting and diverse adventure activities to be found in the country. Whether you’re in the market for a relaxing excursion, getting in touch with nature, or for an adrenaline-fuelled experience that will get your blood rushing, you will be spoilt for choice along Namibia’s adventure coast.

DOLPHIN CRUISES ON THE BAY

A number of companies offer boat cruises from the waterfront in Walvis Bay. Usually a half-day excursion, these cruises are a great opportunity to view marine life, including dolphins and seals – and sometimes even the rare and elusive Mola Mola (sunfish) – from the comfort of a catamaran or other craft. Snacks and drinks, a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere, spectacular views and the feeling of freedom on the open water combine to create truly unforgettable memories.

KAYAKING AT PELICAN POINT

The kayak tours offered at Pelican Point just outside Walvis Bay are certainly among the most fun excursions for the whole family to enjoy. Various operators, including Namibia Kayak Tours, pick you up at a designated spot in Walvis Bay and take you to Pelican Point where you are equipped with waterproof gear, a life vest and a kayak. After a short intro to the art of kayaking, you set off to explore the waters of the bay. Cape fur seals of the colony at Pelican Point frolic in the waters around your kayak, curious and excited. It’s hard to figure out who enjoys the excursion more, you or them, as they gambol in the water and sometimes jump over the nose of your kayak, giving you a nice taste of the cold Atlantic, with what seems to be a cheeky grin on their faces.

The adventurous coast

ECO-GLIDING THROUGH HISTORICAL SWAKOPMUND

The new kid on the block in terms of activities at the coast, Eco-gliding Tours in Swakopmund offers fun and informative Segway excursions. A short crash course is all you need to get the hang of this mode of transport, unfamiliar to some, before you set off on an hour-long expedition. Equipped with a headphone set that lets your tour guide impart wisdom and fun facts along the route, you will learn about the town’s origins and interesting waypoints as you cruise along the quaint streets.

FISHING THE ATLANTIC

The cold Benguela Current along Namibia’s coast makes for an exciting fishing experience. Known as a shore fisherman’s paradise, a ski-boat angling tour from Swakopmund is another exciting excursion that should definitely be enjoyed if you’re an angling enthusiast. Catch anything from kob (kabeljou) and black tail, to game fish such as garrick or sharks, all with the convenience of a skipper to take you to the best spots and a deck hand to help with the bait and clean-up.

LIVING DESERT TOURS

Companies such as Charlie’s

Desert

Tours will take you on an excursion from Swakopmund into the Namib Desert. Your guide will show you the desert’s hidden microverse of plants and animals that survive in the harsh environment. These tours are an opportunity to see a range of interesting desert creatures, including side-winding adders, Palmato geckos, sand-diving lizards, the famous fog-basking Tok-Tokkie beetles, spiders, scorpions and chameleons.

SCENIC FLIGHT DELIGHTS

Various companies along the coast, operating both fixed-wing aircraft and helicopters, offer the unrivalled opportunity of marvelling at the spectacular landscapes of this part of the country from above. Shipwrecks, the Sandwich Harbour lagoon, the Moon Landscape and the incredible dune belt of the central Namib can all be explored from this wonderful vantage point. Some flights will take you on a round-trip to see Sossusvlei in the south, or all the way up to the Epupa Falls on Namibia’s north-western border. The barren hinterland of the Skeleton Coast, interesting geological formations such as the Kuiseb Canyon and Namibia’s highest mountain, the Brandberg, are all on the menu for this adventure. TNN

MORE TO EXPLORE

Got more time? Check out these thrill-inducing, intriguing and unique activities and adventures:

• Go cycling, sandboarding, surfing, quad-biking, shore fishing, windsurfing, sailing, skydiving or paragliding

• Take a stroll through the centre of Swakopmund and admire the historical buildings

• Climb Dune 7, or any of the countless dunes of the dune belt between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, and see the world from a different perspective

• Go on a cultural township tour through Mondesa or Kuisebmond

• Admire flamingos and other avifauna at the Walvis Bay Lagoon, a RAMSAR site for coastal birds

• Take to the dunes and beaches riding a fatbike, horse or camel on a guided tour just outside Swakopmund

Epic Namibia

Through the ages explorers have inspired mankind with accounts of their travels. Those with an adventurous spirit who read about these journeys were enthralled and tempted to travel and experience far-off places for themselves. But alas, that was an impossible quest except for a fortunate few.

Text Rièth van Schalkwyk

These days travel writers inspire their readers with words and with photographs of wondrous places. With the click of a button the most amazing images of practically any secret place in the world can be discovered by almost everyone without lifting as much as a finger. In today’s world exploring has become part of our lives as we travel on our smart phones. It allows us to dream and get lost in the reality of someone else’s experience.

The pandemic has proven, however, that all the beautiful descriptions with the perfect set of adjectives and the most incredible images cannot replace the sense of place. The sense of sounds and smells and that unfathomable sense of wellbeing when you come to a place that you have dreamt of and the reality lives up to your expectations.

Namibia is such a place.

It is a challenge to find the right words to describe our land, even for those of us who are fortunate to live here and be exposed to the many facets of all seasons and temperaments. The extremes of hot and dry, cold and stormy, misty, windy, soft and soothing, quiet and dreamy. The “right” words sound pretentious. Trying to describe the ruggedness that becomes smooth in the last light of the setting sun or a gemsbok charging down the slip face of a dune in a cloud of red dust can hardly convey the magic of that moment. Only once you have seen the beauty with your own eyes will words reflect the true nuances.

Maybe poets will convey the spirit of this country of endless horizons more effectively than writers. However, the ultimate pleasure is to experience the liberating feeling of a modernday explorer. With the help of all the little comforts such as electronic maps and mobile phones, a GPS, a four-wheel drive vehicle with a fridge and a rooftop tent and, of course, fuel on most routes and cell phone coverage nearly everywhere – this is possible in Namibia.

Why not escape the confines and stressful life of a big city for a few weeks of freedom? Discover the natural beauty

and the adventures of a sparsely populated country on a different continent.

All it takes is to board a plane, put your luggage in the back of a four-wheel drive vehicle at the airport. Note the instructions of how to open the rooftop tent and change a tyre. Then stock the camping fridge and take to the open road leading out of the capital in any direction. Better still, take a gravel road and leave “civilization” behind within less than an hour.

Tarred roads are convenient, but do not always offer the best setting for that liberating feeling.

Namibia is a go-slow destination. That is, if you want to explore and not just tick off a list. The journey is truly the destination. Even if you plan to visit at least the obvious highlights from the first chapter in your travel guide it will take you deep into all four corners and beyond.

For that you need time. Not only to marvel at the vistas, but also to go closer and notice the detail and textures of stone and rock, trees and the tiniest flowers. A secret quality of Namibia is the light. Not only for photographers. Driving through a landscape just after sunrise is much more satisfying than having a full breakfast. Be on the road before sunrise. Be settled wherever you go well before sunset to enjoy the golden hour before and after. Dinner should be by candlelight or around an open fire anyway.

If I had only three weeks and one opportunity in a lifetime to visit Namibia, where would I go? That is the most difficult decision especially for someone like me who loves detours and digression.

If you want to follow in my footsteps I don’t promise you the Big Five or the top ten highlights but you will have seen Namibia’s ruggedness, the naturalness, the soul of the land and you will feel liberated whether you fly over it or drive through it.

I will start in the far northeast which is part of Namibia only because of the crazy way in which the colonial powers cut up the continent. That decision worked out well for Namibia. As a result, the water-rich Zambezi Region with its rivers, lush vegetation, enormous trees, great birding and fishing adds a wonderful dimension to the rest of the country’s dramatic landscapes. Zambezi also provides a perfect introduction to Namibia’s community involvement in tourism and conservation.

The 2-hour flight from Eros Airport in Windhoek takes us to Katima Mulilo where the 4x4 is ready and the adventure begins. Our flight will land early in the morning and we immediately board a small aircraft. No time to waste. We may catch the Carmine Bee-eaters’ return to nest in the riverbanks, or hundreds of elephants crossing the river from Angola to Namibia on their way to Botswana. Buffalo congregate on the flood plains and disappear into the woodland. Hippos move in and out of the river and Fish Eagles keep watch on tall trees. And in the hazy dust, as the sun sinks lower, a young man herds his cattle to a kraal. The locals get on with their lives while the animals follow ancient routes to water and grazing, unperturbed by borders and people. Believe me when I say that we can stay here for three weeks and not be bored. We haven’t even started on the flowers and the different natural occurrences in different seasons.

A little detour on our way west to see what the flat land of the Aawambo people has to offer with its tall Makalani Palm trees and traditional villages dotting the landscape. People, domestic animals and human activity. But again, there is no time to discover more because the days are ticking by.

We exit through the King Nehale Gate to a peaceful paradise and the rule of wild animals. Etosha. White dust, thorn trees and a grey blue sky. Noah’s Arc has just opened before our eyes. Gemsbok, springbok, blue wildebeest, zebra, kudu, elephant, black-faced impala, jackal, hyena, birds of prey, flamingos, little ones, brown ones – too many birds to name. Giraffes eat yellow blossoms off the grey thorn trees. Black rhinos drink at the waterhole in the dark sharing the space with elephant herds. Lions roar at night and in the day sometimes rest next to the road for all to see. Why do we have to leave so soon?

Westwards. Our destination is the Brandberg where ancient peoples left evidence of their presence on rocks, and where the rising sun still paints the mountain pink every morning. Along the Ugab’s dry riverbed and its open-air cathedral of vertical rock faces we go. Northwards to meet desert elephants in the shade of Ana trees in the Huab River valley. Then turn south past villages where people live

Spreetshoogte

hard lives with wildlife which often destroys their meagre livelihoods. Take note that there are no fences. No barriers. Freedom to roam freely for man and beast. Look out for the otherworldly forms of trees, plants and shrubs on sand and rocky mountains.

There is a whole world to be discovered still but we have to turn back south again towards the ocean and the Skeleton Coast, famous for shipwrecks and hardships. The cool southwesterly wind tells the opposite to a traveller exiting heat and dust. Flat gravel plains and endless beaches soothe the soul. We pass the place where Portuguese seafarers planted their stone cross and thousands of seals congregate now. Inland again to scale Spitzkoppe and watch the full moon rise. From now on the nights get darker and the stars seem brighter as the moon rises one hour later every night.

Swakopmund on the coast is halfway between north and south and it is also the middle of this journey. A breather to stock up, cool down, stroll through shops and restaurants and enjoy the German colonial style architecture. If you are used to sand deserts, you may think that the Namib is the same as what you know about, but it isn’t. Ours is a living desert. Take a tour into the dunes with an expert guide if you need convincing.

This holiday town offers a myriad of fun things to do. But on this epic journey there will be no time for frivolities like skydiving and sandboarding, camel rides or ski-boat fishing. An exception may be a scenic flight along the Skeleton Coast all the way north to the Kunene River to enjoy a bird’s eye view of where we passed through those previous few days. Perhaps the only opportunity to see the Epupa Falls and villages of the nomadic Himba people who still adhere to their traditional lifestyles.

We continue from Swakop to Walvis Bay on a road wedged between the dunes and the sea. Two of only four towns along a coastline of almost two thousand kilometres. With the exception of these towns the entire coast is national park or conservation areas. No wonder that Namibia can boast to have 46 percent of its land protected in some form of conservation management.

Day trips to one of the famous Ramsar Sites – Sandwich Harbour – are among the options in Walvis Bay. The drive through towering dunes and along deserted beaches is a treat, as is the idea of thousands upon thousands of birds migrating there to breed. Not to mention the fish.

But there is no time for a detour.

S W A SAFARIS NAMIBI A

Along the gravel plains of the desert, covered in parts with yellow grass during good rain cycles, we travel past turnoffs to Mirabib, Vogelfederberg and Gemsbokwater. But no stopping to look at these archaeological sites or watch the moon rise late at night, listen to the barking geckos and lie on our backs to gaze at the milky way in the darkest sky in the world. Instead, through the Gramadoelas, the undulating landscape on either side of the Kuiseb River, and then down to cross the dry riverbed en route to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei and the Sesriem Canyon. Where the ephemeral rivers disappear in the dunes, lies the World Heritage Site called the Namib Sand Sea. The only way to fully appreciate the magnificence of this site, is by taking a scenic flight.

The best we can do on foot is to walk the few kilometres into Deadvlei and up the closest, highest dune for the world famous views of which millions of selfies have been sent.

The deep south is calling and with it the world’s biggest private nature reserve, NamibRand, where 30 years ago a visionary had a dream to preserve nature for future generations. For many of us the most beautiful road in Namibia is the C26. The landscape is breath-taking in all directions, even more so in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon. So we time our departure well. Where the C26 meets the B4 we turn towards the coast again to the place where the first diamond was discovered more than a century ago. Lüderitz is a quaint little village. The ghost town Kolmanskop a photographer’s dream and the history of the rush and ruin of diamonds an interesting and unexpected story for explorers. It will certainly spruce up your diary. But best of all: we can now enter the Sperrgebiet, a vast area previously off limits for anybody but the company which mines for diamonds. That is another story for dinner with crayfish and oysters while looking out on the aquamarine water of the deepest bay on Namibia’s coast. We cannot miss a trip to Bogenfels and the little mining villages almost covered in desert sand. In a few years our journey will definitely include a few extra days in Tsau //Khaeb National Park to experience an untouched piece of desert.

To travel from Lüderitz to our southern border, the Orange River, we may have to wait a few years. There is no direct road. In the meantime we turn inland and eastward to another landmark – the Fish River Canyon. We have the option to stay on the western bank or drive around the canyon and stay east. Or do both. One thing that is not included in a threeweek itinerary is the 90-km hike through the canyon to the hot springs at Ai-Ais. Athletes “do” the Fish for all kind of reasons, but to be that close to nature combined with a certain level of danger is exhilarating.

There are many charming places to stay along the way, each offering a range of activities and stories: a ‘forest’ of quiver trees among rocks, a large collection of lithops (succulents resembling stones) or a walk along the edge of the canyon. We are pressed for time now, because going slow inevitably means days lost along the way. And we don’t want to rush back to our starting point taking the way of least resistance, i.e. straight on the tarred B1. There is more to see en route north to Windhoek than speeding past Brukkaros, although if we had another two days I would have liked to camp there with you and walk to the rim of the crater. Maybe see the end of the rainbow as I did, which confirmed that the pot of gold is not there.

So back on the gravel to Helmeringhausen, towards the Naukluft. Again I would love to take you on a hike to see the interesting trees and rock formations, but we have no days left. You will have to believe me when I point out the tufa called Blasskrans because it looks like the white mark on the head of a horse, or the moringa trees with their white stems, the gold of kobas trees or corkwoods.

Over Remhoogte Pass on the last stretch, but with a quick detour from Nauchas to Spreetshoogte for one last view across the endless expanse and the layers of mountains to watch the sun sink reluctantly behind the horizon.

Epic Namibia. TNN

The Lüderitz Peninsula

It was a tad windy, as it tends to be here. If it were early November, the wind would be welcomed with open arms by the migrant wind surfers gathered in this sleepy yet surprisingly vibrant corner of Namibia’s southern coast. For them, the wind means world records. For us, on this bright yet gusty Feb morning, the wind means hair in your face if you, like me, continuously forget to pack an elastic band. But the wind, along with strands of hair in your mouth, brings with it a sense… or rather, a scent of adventure. A scent of the unknown and yet-to-be-discovered in the air. And along this wild coast, where jagged rocks border tumultuous Atlantic waves, that scent of adventure in the air can easily catapult the active and creative mind back to a time when Portuguese sailors caught a first glimpse of the same coastline, albeit their view from the dark waters eastward. What did they imagine when first spying these shores? Imminent danger… and then absolutely nothing behind the coast. To them these shores and the hinterland it led to surely looked like the caricature of death. To us it still looks barren and forlorn, but with a vibrant little town a few kilometres away and the knowledge that our Toyota bakkie will get us where we need to be (and back), the scene leans more toward adventure and discovery than the sailors’ version of doom.

We’re exploring the Lüderitz Peninsula, the aforementioned Toyota making easy work of the well-laid-out salt routes and dirt tracks and acting as a very adequate barrier between us and the wind. From Lüderitz we follow the clearly demarcated road signs out of town in a southerly direction, along Second Lagoon toward Grosse Bucht. From here the road loops northward where along the road paths lead off toward the coast. A series of what has been labelled “fjords” can be found at the ends of these paths. The views from the crags and jagged rock faces are certainly reminiscent of the images of Norway I’ve longed over on Instagram. The routes leading to and from these fjords should certainly only be tackled with a proper 4x4 vehicle and a semi to experienced off-road driver for good measure. This is where the adventure

part sets in. A short climb up scraggly hills or rocks lead to the most incredible views of the wild coast with its bays and inlets. Hold onto your hat, your camera, your jacket, your dog, as the wind whips around you, even yanking my hair out of the top knot I managed to fashion with a small rubber band scoured from the bottom of my camera bag. The water below churns and tugs. Dark hues of blue and turquoise swirling with whitecaps and froth. To the west the Atlantic stretches into eternity.

Along the route you will see signs demarcating the precious and extremely sensitive breeding grounds of the Damara Tern, a bird endemic to Namibia. Be conscious of where you wander and certainly stick to the roads as you explore. The region is not only home to special species of mammals, birds and reptiles, but also an extraordinary collection of flora, delicate and easily destroyed. If you’re extremely lucky you may spot a scraggly brown hyena scuttling in the distance, or seals sunbathing on a rock along the shore, Heaviside’s dolphins frolicking in the surf or African Penguins waddling around on Halifax Island. Flamingos, pelicans and other waterbirds frequent the shallow waters of the lagoons and beaches.

Further north along the route we reach Diaz Point, an iconic red-and-white-striped lighthouse standing sentinel. Here, the ardent and now-famous explorer Bartolomeu Dias pinned a stone cross, or padrão, to a high rocky outcrop more than 500 years ago, marking his discovery of this new world. The actual cross has made the journey back to the northern continent from which its patron hailed, but its replacement stands tall in memoriam. Take a deep breath while you brace yourself against the gusts and soak in the history. TNN

Text Elzanne McCulloch Photograph Le Roux van Schalkwyk

THE BEST GUIDES IN AFRICA are holding down the fort on a game reserve in Namibia

Ihave a firm belief, after many years of travelling all over Namibia and other countries in Africa, that it is your guide who determines your experience of your visit. A guide can make or break it for you. They are the glue that holds your adventure together, and so I started to ponder… what makes a great guide?

I recently sat down with Isaiah Kapona after two marvelous days on Ongava Game Reserve and asked him what life as a guide is like.

Ongava, the entire reserve with all four of its lodges, had been on lockdown since COVID hit. It only reopened in June 2021. When asked what he has been up to during this time, Kapona remarked that he and the others have been holding down the fort. A lot goes into safeguarding the natural world on a private game reserve. As much as into any national park. Having started his career at Ongava 20 years ago as a member of the anti-poaching unit, Kapona understands these needs more than most. He shares more about two decades of life on a reserve with us during our two day stay. And what a life it must be… that of a guide in Africa. The mopane bushland your office. Lion, elephant and rhino your colleagues. Nature your vocation.

So what makes a great guide? According to Kapona, a guide needs an all-encompassing arsenal of skills. “You’re doing everything. You are a doctor. You are a chef. You are a teacher. We feel like we are ambassadors for the country. A lot of people come back to Namibia over and over. Why do they come back? Because they love what we share with them. They end up loving nature as much as we do.”

Is that all though? A deep love for nature? Surely it plays a crucial role, and it is always easy to tell if someone is truly passionate about their job, but I don’t think that is the only magic ingredient. A truly spectacular guide is dedicated to his or her craft. Beyond their people skills and ability to adapt to each personality type and nationality idiosyncrasies, they put in the hours of study needed to master their knowledge and understanding of the subject matters at hand. A good guide never stops learning. He or she does not limit themselves to the Cliffs Notes or the How to sell the bush handbook. They are zoologists, ornithologists, behaviouralists, meteorologists. They are mixologists and sommeliers. They are comedians and entertainers. They are everything you need them to be, and at the end of the day a really great guide enjoys every second of it.

From basics to going into incredible detail, a truly great guide quickly determines his guests’ experience level and knowledge of the bush or country and adapts his discourse accordingly.

May your next adventure to Namibia award you with the experience of meeting your new best friend on a safari. May they wow, entertain, educate and inspire. May they instil a deep love and understanding of nature in you and plant the seeds of passion for the outdoors and all things wild that comes with an obsession with Namibia. TNN

WHAT ARE THE QUALITIES THAT MAKE A TOP GUIDE?

What are the qualities that make a top Guide? The short answer: start with a great person. The ideal safari Guide, he or she:

• is comfortable with the responsibility of safety and expectation

• is socially adept, alert, and responsive

• can effectively interpret signs, sounds and behaviour

• can deduce, plan and anticipate

• can swiftly adapt as information changes

• is a concise communicator, guests understand him/her

• is informative, can turn the mundane into awe-inspiring

• is diplomatic and tactful, capable of diffusing the knowledge and language differences between guests

• is technically competent, inspires confidence by being:

• physically capable

• a defensive driver, possessing mechanical empathy

• weapons proficient

• a qualified First Responder

• sensitive to photographic needs and nuances

• licensed, and in possession of the required permits.

• He has a life-long commitment to learning, and

• shares his or her passion for nature in a manner that resonates, thereby converting legions of visitors into ambassadors and protectors of the wilds

Supplied by Rob Moffett of Ongava

Slowness

Birding with Pompie

White-crested Bush Shrike

Text & Photographs Pompie Burger

Namibia is a large country, size does indeed matter, so driving and being on the road will be part and parcel of travelling (and bird watching) in this vast and beautiful country. To get to the different hotspots for birding you need to do the travel thing (remember slowness), be it by car, boat or on foot, although I must confess Namibians are not known for the foot thing.

If you drive at a speed of 200 km an hour the only bird you will see is maybe an Ostrich, so if this is the only bird you want to see you might be lucky, but I am afraid there are a lot of other birds which are much more impressive and satisfying to look out for than the world’s largest and fastest (size and speed) bird on foot. Roadside bird watching is unfortunately mostly about raptors, of which Namibia has more than 52 different kinds, so if you are a raptophile you will seldom be disappointed when driving slowly. As most birders will know, novice or professionals, the immature raptor factor comes into play and if you find more than the allocated 52 raptors you might have misinterpreted some of them as new birds.

To speculate on the hotspots of birding in Namibia is a bit of a bummer, maybe deciding beforehand on what your needs are will help. For the professional birder, the Western Bypass

/ Fairy Circle is the way to go. Along the western part of Namibia in the pro-Namib region you can start at Sossusvlei driving north up to the Kunene River and will most probably end up seeing all 13 of Namibia’s endemic species. The only true endemic, the Dune Lark, is obviously in the dunes, with the area around Sossusvlei your most likely hotspot, (between the Fairy Circles). If you start at the bottom (further south), Barlow’s Lark is found east and southeast of Lüderitz, while Gray’s Lark occurs all the way from the Orange River up to the Kunene River. The Damara Tern is common all along the coast.

Moving more inland from the coast, Rüppel’s Korhaan is quite common and not that difficult to spot, because of its size and its semi-desert habitat. The central highlands host the most diverse group of endemics like Rüppel’s Parrot, Carp’s Tit, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, Monteiro’s and Damara Hornbills. The White-tailed Shrike is the icon of the endemics while the Bare-cheeked Babbler is the most vocal, moving around on the ground disturbing the leaves, insects and humans along the way. The Rockrunner and Hartlaub’s Spurfowl prefer rocky mountainous areas. Luckily they are very vocal and musical, so finding them is usually much easier by listening/calling.

Why has the pleasure of slowness disappeared? Ah, where have they gone, the amblers of yesteryear?

Damara Hornbill

- Milan Kundera

If you happen to go as far as the Kunene River, the Red-necked Spurfowl, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush and Grey Kestrel must be on every birder’s menu. The Cinderella Waxbill apparently is present in large numbers during the winter months (I still have to see one myself), while the Angolan Cave Chat, if you like caves, is somewhere in the vicinity of the Zebra Mountains (professional guide advisable). The western counterpart of the Southern Carmine Bee-eater is the Madagascar Bee-eater, a breeding migrant to this area, occurring as far south as Khorixas.

Probably the hotspots as far as numbers (for common people like me) are concerned, are Etosha National Park and the whole of north-eastern Namibia, i.e. the Kavango and Zambezi regions. Visiting Namibia without going to Etosha is like visiting RSA without looking for fraud or looting of a mall. Apart from the endemics occurring in the western part of Etosha (Okaukuejo), raptors are abundant in numbers and variety throughout the park. Look out for the Martial Eagle, Pale Chanting Goshawk (the Dark one is in the Zambezi Region), Tawny Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, Pygmy Falcon (along with their nesting hosts, the Sociable Weavers), African Harrier Hawk and Black-chested Snake-Eagle. I can go on and name all 42 raptors occurring here, but this might get boring, except if you see them. Vultures are obviously common, because lions are common. White-backed and Lappet-faced are the dominant species.

The Zambezi Region is well known for its variety, be it waterbirds, raptors or forest birds. The main reason for the abundance and variety of birds is the

Schalow's Turaco

Western Banded Snake Eagle

Martial Eagle

Southern Carmine Bee-eater

vast number of different habitats. Water birds are common because water is common! Do yourself a favour and look for the Pygmy Goose, the smallest goose in the world. Apparently, the Slaty Egret and Rufous-bellied Heron are rather special for foreigners but for us Namibians they are common. Raptors to look for are the Western Banded Snake Eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Dickenson’s Kestrel, Bat Hawk and Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle. The one bird which is a must to find is Pell’s Fishing Owl, but again I suggest some professional guidance.

Last but not least, my personal favourite bird/spot is the Southern Carmine Bee-eater in the Zambezi Region. The breeding colony (the largest in the world) along the Zambezi River at Mubala is a must on your list. Seeing thousands of these beautiful birds congregating at the end of August to breed is a sight never to forget. In the process their natural enemies are also rather exciting (though not for them), like the African Marsh Harrier, Yellow-billed Kite, Black Mamba etc. While you are in the area, look for the White-backed

Duck, White-crowned Lapwing and the Black Coucal (a summer visitor). A trip on the Zambezi River will, apart from all the water birds, take you to another fascinating sighting, the breeding ground/beaches of the African Skimmer. Just ignore the fishermen on the river, they will settle down at sunset with their B&C around a campfire.

I will skip the migrants because they might be from your region and thus I would be duplicating unnecessarily. To name all the wonderful birding spots and all the wonderful birds in less than a thousand words is impossible, so forgive me (birds) for not mentioning all of you. The lodge owners can contact me directly for an invitation to their lodge, B&C on the house please. As far as sea birds are concerned, rather ask somebody else who knows better than me.

Slowness, patience and size are still the mainstay of our country. Slowness at the border post, patience at the Ministry of Home Affairs and the size of your excitement to meet all the wonderful birds of Namibia. TNN

Monteirose's Hornbill

African Finfoot

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk

Dune Lark

Bathawk

Bogenfels rock arch.

Tsau //Khaeb

National Park

Unlocking the Forbidden Territory

What enticed men to leave their homes in Europe for a far-off German colony on the African Continent to dig through burning gravel under the relentless sun of the Namib Desert for a gemstone made of carbon arranged in a crystal structure?

Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk

The Sperrgebiet was proclaimed the Tsau //Khaeb National Park in 2008. It covers an area of 2,2 million hectares, the majority of which falls within the Succulent Karoo biome. It had been closed to the public for more than a hundred years to protect the diamond wealth of the area. As a result, the fragile Succulent Karoo ecosystem, which boasts the highest diversity of succulent flora globally, was left largely undisturbed for all these years – an amazing feat when considering how rare it is to have a protected area such as this in modern times.

Around 1,050 plant species are known to occur in Tsau // Khaeb National Park. That is nearly 25 percent of the entire flora of Namibia on less than three percent of the country’s land area. The Succulent Karoo is listed as one of the world’s top 34 biodiversity hotspots.

For this reason, any form of tourism in the area had to be well thought through as it holds the potential to adversely affect this preserved area. A tourism development plan was drawn up and approved in August 2019 for a period of 10 years. As part of the development plan, nine tourism concessions were awarded by the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism with very strict guidelines.

The concession that covers the mining tourism hot spots as well as the awe-inspiring Bogenfels, was awarded to a company called Sandwich Harbour 4x4, which invited the Travel News Namibia team on its Bogenfels and Diamonds Scenic Tour.

The full-day tour enters the park through the Rotkopf entrance gate some 20 kilometres east of Lüderitz. The first

stop, after a short drive, is Grillental. This was an important pump station (water is not easy to come by in the desert) that provided fresh water to the mining towns several kilometres away. Apart from a couple of buildings, tools are scattered through the area, a reminder of the hard labour on this site all those years ago.

Driving further, the route takes guests through a diverse landscape of rocky outcrops, shifting dunes and, of course, the gravel plains that held the promise of the sought-after diamonds. The only remnants of the diamond days are hundreds of gravel heaps that were sifted through for the valuable stones.

Just before reaching the ghost town of Pomona, the tour passes through Idatal, named after August Stauch's wife. Stauch is famous for starting the diamond rush after Zacharias Lewala, the above-mentioned railway worker under his charge, brought him the first stone. According to Stauch, the valley was so rich in diamonds that when his party discovered Idatal the men crawled on their stomachs at night picking up the stones that glittered in the moonlight.

Pomona with its abandoned houses and their disintegrating wooden frames, is similar to Kolmanskop, but it covers a larger area with a lot more manmade remnants strewn around. The narrow-gauge railway tracks, once the lifeline to the Lüderitz harbour, are only discernible by the rustcoloured lines on the ground. The metal has completely rusted away.

After a delicious lunch, which includes oysters, the tour departs for the natural highlight of the southern coast –

Our guide, Günther Berens, explaining some of the fascinating geography of the area.

Bogenfels. The massive rock arch is 55 metres high and arches over the Atlantic shore. It is a sight to behold and difficult to explain in its striking beauty and size. Barely visible when driving towards it, Bogenfels never fails to impress even returning visitors. A walk to the top of the arch affords amazing, if slightly scary (for those with a fear of heights) views of the surrounding area. While a look at the arch from below offers a completely different perspective of the giant rock structure.

Exploring the remnants of the settlements of the diamond pioneers gives a little insight into what it must have been to battle the elements – heavy fog, wind, sand storms and a burning sun – in a remote part of an unknown country. The former settlements of these adventurous spirits have been preserved by the desert. They allow extraordinarily fascinating glimpses into the past and what some would do for the ultimate prize of a small stone and the promise of wealth. TNN

Exploring the processing plant at Pomona

The mine manager’s house at Pomona

Exploring the remnants of the settlements of the diamond pioneers gives a little insight into what it must have been to battle the elements – heavy fog, wind, sand storms and a burning sun – in a remote part of an unknown country.

Discover Namibia

with Ondili

KALAHARI

With its rolling red dunes and scattered camel thorn trees, the Kalahari Desert is the younger of Namibia’s two deserts. It stretches across Namibia, Botswana and South Africa over an estimated area of 900 000 km². It is regarded as the traditional homeland of the indigenous San people, the country’s oldest inhabitants, famous for their hunter-gatherer way of life.

The best way to truly feel the intense nature experience that the Kalahari offers is to go on a guided overnight Trans Kalahari Walk. Feel the connection with the earth as you watch from atop a dune how antelope herds graze on the vast grassy plains. After the day’s rewarding hike, enjoy a night by campfire under the glittering stars at the cosy but luxurious dune camp.

Experience the magic of the Kalahari with a stay at Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge or Teufelskrallen Tented Lodge. Teufelskrallen’s tent houses are located on the first western Kalahari dune and offer guests a panoramic view over the endless expanse of the Kalahari’s dunes. Only 200 km from the capital Windhoek, Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge is a quaint lodge with individually and lovingly designed chalets that offer guests the true sense of the space and beauty of the Kalahari Desert.

NAMIB

The world’s oldest desert at an estimated 55 million years old, the Namib is a place that enchants visitors from all over. It is world-famous for the picturesque Deadvlei with its bleached clay pan, ancient dead camel thorn trees and massive orange dunes that surround it. The Namib Sand Sea, boasting several dunes higher than 300 metres, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013.

Become intimately acquainted with the Namib and its incredible fauna and flora by going on a sleep-out ride on the stunning, Ondili owned, private nature reserve adjacent to the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Explore this incredibly scenic section of the Namib from the back of a horse. After the ride, a simple yet luxurious tented camp awaits – the ideal setting for a delightful night spent under a star-lit desert sky.

Desert Homestead Lodge is famous for its horse safaris and is the perfect starting point for tours into Sossusvlei and its surroundings. Experience the tranquillity and expanse of the desert landscape in the utmost luxury and style at Namib Outpost.

WINDHOEK

Ondili’s homey boutique guesthouse Ti Melen is the perfect balance between nature and proximity to the capital city’s sights, restaurants and cultural vibe.

Ti Melen is situated high against the slope of a hill at the very end of a quiet culde-sac in Windhoek’s Avis neighbourhood. Being literally on the outskirts of the city means that it is almost entirely surrounded by wonderful natural scenery.

Ti Melen offers six spacious rooms, each with an en-suite bathroom and stylishly decorated with vintage furniture and finishings that transport you to the splendid living of a century ago. Each room has its own unique character and finishing touches as well as its own balcony or patio to enjoy the natural surroundings.

Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge

SWAKOPMUND

Ideally situated in the warmly-beating heart of Swakopmund, Brigadoon Guesthouse allows guests to immerse themselves in the daily hustle and bustle of the small coastal town. With its welcoming atmosphere and luxuriously comfortable rooms, the Brigadoon is a stone’s throw away from Swakop’s top attractions including the Mole, jetty, lighthouse and museum.

ERONGO

The Erongo Mountains form part of one of the most impressive areas in the country. The landscape is characterised by 2000-metre-high mountains of volcanic origin and rivers that carry water all year round, offering breath-taking panoramic views. The spectacular geological formations like the Boulder Forest as well as excellent birding and game watching opportunities make this area an excellent choice for nature lovers.

Embrace the wonders of this area with an Erongo Nature Excursion. After a short drive, a guided hike leads guests to the most interesting landscape of the farm, characterised by spectacular rock formations and fascinating vegetation. On the hike, guests learn about the geological highlights of the Erongo mountains, the semi-precious stones such as tourmaline and aquamarine that are mined here as well as the ancient San rock paintings found in the area.

Hohenstein Lodge is located at the foot of the highest peak of the Erongo mountains. Round off an adventurous day on the restaurant terrace and experience the spectacular sunsets that bathe the surrounding countryside in a fantastic red glow.

Spacious chalets effortlessly incorporate natural elements into a delicious blend of luxury and rustic, each has its own private shady terrace overlooking the awe-inspiring scenery.

DAMARALAND

Situated in the northwest of Namibia, Damaraland is known for its definitive landscapes. The area offers numerous places worth visiting that range from viewing desert-adapted wildlife to learning more about the past, present and ancient cultural heritage of the area.

Visit Twyfelfontein, where guests can see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 2000 rock engravings and drawings. These graphic representations are thousands of years old and allow a glimpse into the lives of the people who inhabited this area centuries ago.

Go on a game drive into the dry Huab River and search for the impressive desert-adapted elephants and other game. Guests will not only learn more about the amazing animals and plants that inhabit the area but also about the interesting geological features.

Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp is nestled in rolling boulders of a granite outcrop, perfectly located only a ten-minute drive from Twyfelfontein Rock Engravings, within walking distance of the Damara Living Museum and in the Huab River Valley. A stylish and extremely comfortable tented camp from where Damaraland can be explored.

ETOSHA

Etosha National Park is Namibia’s greatest wildlife sanctuary and the most visited destination in Namibia besides Sossusvlei. The park derives its name from the massive 4 730 km² Etosha salt pan. It is so large it can be seen from space and is one of the largest pans on earth. The park is a hotspot for a variety of game – anything from rhino and elephant to lions and leopards.

Take a guided drive into the park in an all-terrain vehicle with one of Ondili’s expert guides. Ondili’s guides have an intimate knowledge of the wildlife in Etosha and will give guests the ultimate safari experience, getting close to elephants and rhinos, giraffes and lions, meerkats and flamingos.

Situated on a 5000-hectare game reserve that shares a 10 km border with the Etosha, Etosha Oberland Lodge combines luxury and style with the utmost privacy. Enjoy the exquisite dining experience, relax by the infinity pool or sip on a drink while spotting game at one of the many private seating spots. TNN

Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp

Etosha Oberland Lodge

Your charming, family friendly accommodation in the historic building, characteristic of the pioneering years of Swakopmund. In the heart of town, but near enough to the sea to listen to its murmuring at night and offering an ideal retreat for anyone enjoying an oasis of silence and relaxation.