Namibia TRAVEL NEWS
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VOLUME 24 No 4 | WINTER 2016
TIGER FISHING
Proud to be
HIMBA
The EXPO N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT
Adventures
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As part of the RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos initiative, T-shirts have been produced in further support of the cause. On last year’s tour each cyclist received a T-shirt as part of their gift package. Feedback and requests for the T-shirts from the general public, as well as tourists who met the cyclist on their adventure, was tremendous, therefore the T-shirts are now available for sale to anyone who wishes to support the endeavours of the Save the Rhino Trust. Order your shirt at www.rideforrhinos.com.na.
Travel News Namibia has been at the forefront of Namibian tourism promotion for over 23 years, celebrating all things Namibian in print and online. In 2015 Venture Media launched “A Travel News Namibia Initiative”, a project that will strive to promote Namibia across different platforms beyond the boundaries of print and publishing. Follow us on our journey as we celebrate the beauty of Namibia, its conservation successes and new exciting adventures to come with our emerging Travel News Namibia initiatives!
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2016
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T HE J UPITER D RAWING R OOM (CT) 48206/E
CELEBRATING
YEARS OF REINHEITSGEBOT
Today we drink to the 500 TH anniversary of the Reinheitsgebot (purity law). 500 years of tradition. 500 years of pride. 500 years of purity. It’s the law that makes our beer what it is today, 100% Pure. Now that’s something worth raising a glass to.
Cheers!
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.
go places with your tourism business.
FNB Namibia recognises the vital role of tourism on the development of the Namibian economy. Our team of industry experts is ready to help grow your tourism business.
Terms and conditions apply. www.fnbnamibia.com.na Call the Tourism Division of FNB Business today on 061 411 211
Namibia TRAVEL NEWS
is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com
Tel: +264 61 420 500, 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Naude Muller PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com LAYOUT & DESIGN Viktoria Human CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Helge Denker, Rieth van Schalkwyk, Pompie Burger, Christie Keulder, Ginger Mauney PHOTOGRAPHERS Elzanne Erasmus, Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Paul van Schalkwyk, Ginger Mauney, Christie Keulder, Pompie Burger, Marita van Rooyen, Chris Botha, Tanja Sentefol, Helmut Schaefer, Peter Pack, Helge Denker PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
COVER PHOTOGRAPH Paul van Schalkwyk
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NAMIBIA
Best in Service Best in Service Best in Service Excellence Excellence Excellence
Air Namibia was once again Voted “Best Regional Air Namibia was once again Voted “Best Regional Airline” in Service Excellence by Airports Air Namibia was once again Voted “Best Regional Airline” in Service Excellence by Airports Company South Africa for airlines operating Airline” Service Excellence by Airports CompanyinSouth Africa for airlines operating into Johannesburg and Cape Town International Company South Africa airlines into Johannesburg and for Cape Town operating International Airports. This is the 8th time over 10 consecutive into Johannesburg International Airports. This is theand 8thCape time Town over 10 consecutive years Air Namibia scoops this prestigious award. Airports. is the 8th time 10 consecutive years Air This Namibia scoops thisover prestigious award.
Carrying the spirit of Namibia years Air Namibia scoops this prestigious award. Carrying the spirit of Namibia Carrying the spirit of Namibia
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Namibia TRAVEL NEWS
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VOLUME 24 No 4 | WINTER 2016
TIGERFISHING
Adventures
Proud to be
HIMBA
The EXPO N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT
Edition
Travel News Namibia is a high-quality glossy Namibia travel and lifestyle magazine tasked with promoting Namibia to the world. Travel News Namibia is published in five different editions per year. These include four English-language editions and one German edition. Travel News Namibia is for sale in Namibia and South Africa.
NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL The 200-plus-page Namibia Holiday & Travel tourism directory is published in print and online to promote Namibia as a tourist destination offering an abundance of national parks, magnificent wildlife and spectacular scenery.
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ANTOINETTE DOES IT AGAIN! Namibia’s famous chef and author of the award-winning cookbook My Hungry Heart, Antoinette de Chavonnes Vrugt, has completed her second book, Life on a table, which was launched at the end of October 2015. The book is available at selected bookshops throughout Namibia or can be ordered from Venture Media at bonn@venture.com.na.
CONSERVATION AND THE ENVIRONMENT IN NAMIBIA 2015
and the Environment in Namibia
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YEARS
Conservation and the Environment in Namibia, an annual special edition of Travel News Namibia, is published in close cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, and is available as a printed magazine and online. The 2015 edition reflects NEDBANK's Go Green initiative.
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HUNTINAMIBIA
This annual magazine has an English edition for distribution in the USA and a German edition for distribution in Germanspeaking European countries. It consists of a minimum of 60 pages and is available as a printed magazine and online. www.huntnamibia.com.na
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EDITOR’S LETTER WEATHER, BIRDS AND EXPO TIME
W
hy is it that I always want to start my conversation with a reference to the weather? Almost as if this is an oldfashioned letter starting with “My dear friend, how are you?
WINTER
IN NAMIBIA
On my side we are worried, because it hardly rained all season. Farmers worry that they will not have enough grazing to see them through the winter. The dams are almost empty. Don’t ask me if it is bad planning on the side of authorities, or too many illegal dams in catchment areas. In Windhoek we have to let go of the lovely flowers at the Christus Kirche and elsewhere in the city centre, and at home we are back to the pebble lawns of the 80s.” Fortunately there is so much more to Namibia than green lawns and spring flowers. Driving along the B8 between Grootfontein and Rundu and then along the Trans-Caprivi Highway, I wished that one day I would have the opportunity to travel this route with Luise Hoffmann, our tree expert. Just when I think I can fit the names to the trees it is a different season and the trees do not look like the ones I had memorised on the previous trip. No wonder everybody sticks to the Big Five. You cannot make a mistake. Although they move, at least they all keep the same shape and colour. Reading Ron’s story on taking a break on the road made me realise that identifying trees was not the only challenge. We even missed some interesting stops and turn-offs to hidden gems. Namibia has so much more to offer than what literally meets the eye. Imagine my travelling family of fanatical birders when we heard the unmusical cry of a Turaco during a chance stopover at Namwi River Camp on the Zambezi. It was just sitting there on a branch. Looking down at us, with its funky make-up and hairstyle. The Schalow’s. What a treat it was to identify that elusive one at last. The next morning, when on our way we stopped at Tutwa Travel for breakfast, I excitedly told Katie Sharp how lucky we were to identify the last of the Turacos on Roberts. She laughed and said that everybody in Katima sees them in their gardens every day! If you have ever travelled through Tsumkwe, or plan to do so, take the time to read Christie Keulder’s “Foodies” article. We got lost in the suburb on our way to the only camping site in the village after a glorious few days in Khaudum National Park. It was full moon and one musician on an electronic organ with many different sounds, including a drum, entertained us until the town’s electricity was switched off at ten. Recently a tour operator asked our advice on the most “authentic Himba experience” to recommend to clients. Enjoy Ginger’s beautiful prose on page 50. It’s Expo time again. Come and join us at our regular stand in the President’s Hall and have fun in our Travel News passion wagon.
Rièth van Schalkwyk
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2016
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CONTENTS WINTER 2016 10 WHAT’S NEW(S)? New, Newsworthy, Now 16 THE NAMIBIAN TOURISM EXPO From then to now
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22 ANOTHER FORM OF PARADISE at Nambwa 28 BIRDING Doves and Pigeons 36 TAKE A BREAK between Rundu and Katima 42 LET'S GO ON AN ADVENTURE Tiger fishing with CYMOT 46 FOODIES Tuna Salad in Tjum!kui 50 PROUD TO BE Himba 56 CONSERVATION The AfriCat Foundation 60 TOP CAMPSITES inside Namibia's parks
CONTENTS
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64 PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE The Tourism Professionals 72 GETTING LOST at Auas Safari Lodge 74 COMMUNITY CONSERVATION People, Places and Wildlife 76 BOOKS The People of Namibia
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Pompie Burger
Pompie Burger
NAMIBIA TO CONSERVE ALBATROSSES AND PETRELS Namibia is currently in the process of becoming part of the multi-lateral Agreement for the Conservation of Albatrosses and Petrels (ACAP). In April 2015 the cabinet supported Namibia’s decision to become an ACAP member. Now all that is needed is approval from parliament. Currently ACAP has 13 member countries and the agreement covers 31 species of albatrosses, petrels and shearwaters. Namibia favours an ecosystem approach to fisheries management, and ways to reduce unwanted by-catch are implemented as part of the regulatory framework. The Namibia Nature Foundation is implementing the Albatross
WHAT’S NEW(S)?
Task Force in Namibia project to aid in the protection of the birds. Birdlife International and the Royal Society initiated the task force in 2006 for the Protection of Birds in the UK as part of the Save the Albatross campaign. In November 2015 a number of preventative regulations were set in place to ensure the protection of albatrosses in Namibian waters. Among those regulations it is now mandatory for all long-line fishing vessels to deploy at least one bird-scaring rope with brightly coloured streamers at all times during fishing operations. Two birdscaring lines have to be deployed by trawlers.
Compiled by Sanet van Zijl
The official launch of the Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) took place on 6 April. The NCE was established as an umbrella organisation for all environmental organisations by the corporate manager of B2Gold Namibia, Charles Loots, Frauke Kreitz of the Namibian Environment and Wildlife Society (NEWS) and environmental consultant Dr Chris Brown. NCE aims to become a financial resource centre, sponsored by industry. The managing director of B2Gold Namibia, Mark Dawe, announced that his company is donating N$1 million to the NCE. Namibia has many epic nature conservationists and environmental experts and they are now part of the council of the new Namibian Chamber of Environment. They will decide which projects will receive funding. The target for funding will be sections of the corporate world which so far have not been regular benefactors to the environmental sector. The goals of the NCE include conservation of the natural environment, promotion of the best environmental practices and environmental rehabilitation; protection of indigenous biodiversity and protected species; development of skills and ability; mentorship to young Namibians; prevention of environmental degradation and pollution and protection of the atmosphere. For more information on NCE visit the website: www.n-c-e.org.
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Francoise Steynberg
NAMIBIAN CHAMBER OF ENVIRONMENT ESTABLISHED
Namibia Future Farming
WHAT’S NEW(S)?
AQUAPONICS: the way forward for Namibian agriculture? Namibia Future Farming (NFF) recently celebrated their launch at Dagbreek Special School in Windhoek by installing 12 aquaponic units at the school. This is NFF’s third aquaponics centre at Dagbreek. Aquaponics combines hydroponics, which is a method of growing plants without soil in water, with aquaculture, the breeding of aquatic organisms. This combination creates a symbiotic environment where the organic matter excreted by the fish is used to feed the plants. The plants in turn filter and clean the water that the fish live in. Vegetables, fruit and various other plants can be grown in aquaponic systems. The
AFRICAN WILD DOG
introduction of aquaponic systems in Namibia can change the game of agriculture completely. According to estimates aquaponics uses 90% less water than soil-based agriculture. The system continuously recycles the same water, which means that less water is lost. Water is lost only through evaporation and transpiration from plant leaves. The concept can be applied to community projects, on a domestic scale or to personal projects and anyone can manage it – physically impaired individuals, the elderly or very young. For more information on aquaponics visit www.namibiafuturefarming.org.
Paul van Schalkeyk
NOW A PROTECTED SPECIES IN NAMIBIA According to the World Wildlife Fund, the African wild dog is one of the world’s most endangered mammals. The largest populations remain in southern Africa and the southern part of East Africa. Namibia has finally taken the necessary steps to ensure the survival of this species. The Minister of Environment and Tourism, Pohamba Shifeta, signed the amended Nature Conservation Ordinance of 1975 to include the African wild dog as a protected species, giving it the same status as the rhino in Namibia. This is good news both for this species and for conservation in the country. It will have its own challenges, such as the management of the species. However, all stakeholders – especially farmers – will need to find proactive solutions in dealing with these predators. Experts are uncertain at this time as to how many wild dogs are roaming freely in Namibia, but they believe that numbers have reached a critical level and it is estimated that only between 355 and 601 of them are left. The main population of wild dogs is found in north-eastern Namibia.
ONDILI WINS INTERNATIONAL FILM PRIZE at ITB Berlin Ondili Lodges & Activities has won an international tourism film prize for their Small Miner Documentary in the coveted film, print and multimedia competition “The Golden City Gate”. Hohenstein Lodge and filmmakers Dennis Vogt and Jan Rohlfs were awarded “The Silver City Gate” in the category “Road show presentation of a destination”. It is a great achievement and an honour as they competed with top international productions and film creators. The leading travel trade show, ITB Berlin, was the perfect setting for the annual award ceremony. The best works received Golden, Silver or Bronze City Gate Awards. Before being awarded Silver the film was on show for three days in the ITB cinema, along with other international entries.
CYMOT ULTIMATE ADVENTURE COMPETITION Travel News Namibia is running yet another exciting competition. This time we have teamed up with CYMOT for the Ultimate Namibian Adventure Competition. By entering this competition you could win a CYMOT gift card worth N$10 000. Imagine all the wonderful products you could buy with that! Entering is quite simple: write us a story of the Ultimate Namibian Adventure that you have been on. The story should be between 300 and 800 words. Illustrate the story with
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a couple of your own photos and email everything to info@travelnewsnamibia.com. If your story meets the competition criteria it will be published on our website and shared on our Facebook page. The competition ends on 24 June 2016. A panel of judges consisting of Travel News Namibia’s regular contributing writers will choose the winner. You can enter as many stories as you like! Visit www.travelnewsnamibia.com for more information.
WHAT’S NEW(S)?
MOKUTI ETOSHA LODGE #1 on TripAdvisor Many establishments worldwide use the TripAdvisor popularity index to see how well they are performing. The index is based on traveller feedback and reflects how an establishment compares to other establishments in the same area. Mokuti Etosha Lodge is currently ranked 1st on this list for Etosha and surroundings. The quality and quantity of reviews are taken into account when accommodation is ranked on the site, which means that the lodge has been rated for excellent customer service. The lodge has been
included in the TripAdvisor Hall of Fame consecutively since 2011 for continuous excellence in service. Mokuti is a convenient stopover for travellers wanting to explore the famous eastern parts of Etosha National Park. Only a fourminute drive from Von Lindequist Gate near historical Fort Namutoni, Mokuti is the lodge closest to eastern Etosha National Park. Congratulations to Mokuti Etosha Lodge on their new ranking!
CHAMELEON SAFARIS OFFERS FREE CITY WALKING TOURS On a Chameleon Safaris walking tour you can explore the city centre, whilst learning about the history from the resident walking guide, Alvin. Visit the Alte Feste, Zoo Park, Christus Kirche, Parliament Gardens and the Old Fort – getting as much or as little information as you choose. Alvin is a student at the Namibian Academy of Tourism and Hospitality and is currently being mentored by Chameleon Safaris. He runs these free walking tours to gain experience and share his passion with visitors to the city. Tours depart Monday – Saturday at 9:00 from Chameleon Backpackers & Guesthouse and 9:30 from the Tourist Information Centre (below the Hilton Hotel). Each tour lasts approximately 2 hours. No bookings are required. Contact Chameleon Safaris at info@chameleon.com.na or +264 61 247 668.
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2016
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We are a collective of Namibia’s most character-filled independent experiences. Owner-run and original is the way we like it. We are happy to differ on the elements that make each experience unique: Every guide has a secret spot to share, every room has a different character and each chef has an individual approach, yet we collectively agree on sharing a warm welcome, our unsurpassed local knowledge and our pride in every element of service.
www.naturallynamibia.com
info@naturallynamibia.com
Dream Big
WITH THE RIGHT CROWD The history of the Namibia Tourism Expo Text Rièth van Schalkwyk
The first tourism expo in 1999 set the stage for big dreams to become a successful reality. Rièth van Schalkwyk, editor of Travel News Namibia, invites you on the journey which started when she, her husband Paul and Willem Moore met in the Venture office 17 years ago, laying the foundation of what was to become one of the most successful annual tourism events in Namibia which put tourism on the Namibian map and raised the status of the sector.
W
hile the world worried about what the new millennium would bring and whether all computers would crash and turn life upside down, our small group set plans into action. We dreamed big, but would local businesses join in the fun? Would we have the buy-in of the tourism sector? June 1999 - Before the millennium dawned, the first Namibia Holiday & Travel Expo took place in Windhoek. We named it after the tourism directory with the same title, published by Venture Publications since 1993 and endorsed as the Official Tourism Directory of Namibia by the Tourism Minister of that time, Philemon Malima. Full of enthusiasm and big dreams, the small team at Venture started to plan an Expo that would inspire Namibians. Our aim was to expose the nation to everything related to tourism in our own country. We believed that this platform for tourism promotion could become Namibia’s tourism window to the world and that international operators and future business partners would eventually come to see what we had to offer.
AND THEN IT ALL STARTED
On a cold June morning in 1999, I was racing against time to put flyers on windscreens along Independence Avenue in Windhoek. There was a banner across the street from the M&Z building to what is now Home Affairs, announcing the Namibia Holiday & Travel Expo. After two blocks I realised that this was a jeans and sneakers type of job and I was not going to get it done in heels. Our team was thinly spread and everyone had to do whatever needed to be done.
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TOURISM EXPO THE FIRST EXPO
At the event venue in Olympia, outdoor enthusiasts could sign up for a fresh water fishing competition, take their 4x4s off-road on a route outside Windhoek, test their skills at a PROAMM and clay pigeon shooting competitions or join a rock-climbing excursion to the Climbing Garden south of Windhoek. The Mountaineering Club shared their knowledge of the best climbing routes and used the opportunity to sign up new members. The Namibian hiking club, Dorsland Voetslaners, distributed maps and information on the large number and variety of hiking routes throughout the country. If the coast were closer, there would have been more opportunity to show off the multitude of water activities. Namibian author Piet van Rooyen, an organiser of the annual Endurance Horse Ride, offered rides for Expo visitors and even invited children to ride under the supervision of experienced riders. Preparations for the Food & Wine Festival, with demonstrations and lectures on “Food in Africa” were underway at the Windhoek Country Club. 20 recipients of the Michelangelo Wine Awards in South Africa were ready to introduce their wines, paired with delicacies from Namibia. Namibian chefs were competing at the Hospitality Training Centre for a trip to one of Europe’s finest cordon bleu schools in Paris. Dave Hughes, back then one of the most respected wine experts on the continent, entertained Namibians with wine and brandy tastings. Renata Coetzee, lecturer and expert in African traditional food, shared her knowledge and inspired local chefs to adapt traditional cuisine for the modern palate. At the stalls visitors were treated to Lüderitz oysters, ostrich meat prepared in various ways, Namibian biltong, traditional German fair and even organic vegetables, not to mention dried mopane worms, a traditional delicacy from the north.
TOP TO BOTTOM
CYMOT, the first Namibian company to sign up for Expo '99. Karin Böttger, volunteered to guide Expo City Tours from the venue in Olympia. Kobus Basson of Kleine Zalze, one of 20 SA wine producers at the Expo '99 Food & Wine Festival. The opening of the Hilde List Loft in the Namibia Craft Centre was the first Expo event in '99.
TO EDUCATE AND INSPIRE
That first year our aim was to demonstrate to Namibians that there was much more to tourism than hotels and tourists. Visitors could join lectures on Birding for Beginners and excursions with seasoned birders. Helmuth zur Strassen’s astronomy lecture was packed to capacity. Helmuth, who also lectured at The Namibia Academy of Tourism and Hospitality (NATH), the first accredited tourism training institution for tour guides in Namibia, inspired old and young to make a career in tourism, or at least enrol for courses such as Birding, Fauna and Flora, Geology, History, Astronomy – even basic mechanics and first aid.
THE EXHIBITORS
45 exhibitors lined the walls of the Expo hall in 1999. Rural towns took the plunge without knowing if they would get a return on their investment. Tourism operators, hotels, lodges and guest farms joined forces to show off their tourism highlights. Marion Schelkle manned a stall for Lüderitz, a trailblazer for her town
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1999
2001
Chef Titus Nghigingi
Mia De Klerk, Miss Namibia 2000
Windhoek Mayor Matheus Shikongo with FENATA CEO Jackie Asheeke and HAN Chairman Brian Black
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Anette Gross' winning photo for Wildlife in the TASA Photo Competition. Expo Champions: Jackie Asheeke of FENATA, Republikein's Chris Jacobie, Shareen Thude of NTB and Leon Jooste, Deputy Minister of Environment and Tourism.
2005
Expo rebranded when Venture Publications passed the baton to NTB
to this day. Gita Pätzholt took care of the stall representing HAN members, many of whom bought into the Expo dream and still participate, not as one of 45 but by now hundreds of exhibitors. For many Namibians the 1999 Expo was their first acquaintance with NACOBTA (the Namibia Community Based Tourism Association) and the products which its members offer, from curios to camping sites in rural Namibia.
LOCAL CRAFTS ARE LEKKER
To help us open local eyes to what tourists find interesting in the capital, Inge Glaue and Karin Böttger, members of the Tour Guide Association of Namibia, offered to guide visitors on Expo City Tours, sponsored by Trans Namibia and Oryx Tours. One of the highlights during that first year was the Crafts Alive Exhibition and the opening of the Hilde List Loft at the Namibia Craft Centre. The NCC formed part of the Craft Route to crafts venues throughout the capital. The Expo City Tours stopped at places such as Penduka and the National Art Gallery. In later years the Crafts Alive Exhibition occupied a large part of an exhibition hall at the Expo, always representing local artists and crafters.
THE GOLFERS CAME TOO!
Local golfers were adamant that their passion should be part of a tourism expo. We did not argue, because in our magazines we proudly write about the quaint golf courses in rural Namibia. All the prizes at that first Expo Golf Day at the Windhoek Country Club were weekends at lodges and guest farms, sponsored by members of the Hospitality Association.
PHOTO EXCELLENCE AWARDED
With the enthusiastic support of the Tour & Safari Association we launched the TASA Photographic competition in 1999. The
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main component of tourism marketing is visual, and photos are therefore an indispensible component, we reasoned. Our aim with this competition was to encourage local photographers to share their talent and thus prove that they could expertly capture the beauty and magic of Namibia. We were convinced that by giving local photographers exposure, the industry would use their services instead of importing skills. Amy Schoeman, acclaimed photographer and a member of our Venture team at the time, invited award-winning photographer and President of the SA Institute of Professional Photographers, Mike Reed, to head the panel of judges. 21 photographers entered 497 transparencies in seven categories. 40 finalists were printed at one of the best photographic laboratories in southern Africa and these stunning photographs were exhibited at the Expo. TASA sponsored prize money for the winner, and TASA members chose which category winner to sponsor. The competition ended in 2005 with the advent of digital photography. And so the millennium dawned on us, the world did not turn upside down, no systems crashed to bring civilization to a halt and in Namibia the tourism mood was buoyant as ever. Feedback on the first Holiday & Travel Expo was so good that we realised the event would have to grow, but we were too small. As a publishing company with magazines targeting the international travel trade, we needed a local partner to reach a local audience. We believed that this platform for tourism promotion could become Namibia’s tourism window to the world.
WITH REPUBLIKEIN TO THE FUTURE
Venture could never have achieved the success of the Namibia Tourism Expo on its own. We simply did not have the
TOURISM EXPO
2002
2010 Maxi Louis of NACOBTA
Stefan Brückner (centre) of Wolwedans
2006
resources. When we invited Die Republikein newspaper to join us as co-hosts in 2000 and they appointed Glenda MantheGrobler as the organiser, supported by the entire Republikein team, the Expo soared. For the next 15 years Glenda and her husband Jan Grobler met every challenge of the successful, ever-expanding event with the support of the Management and MD of Democratic Media Holdings, Chrisna Greeff. The Expo outgrew Olympia, then WCCR and after two years even the Old SKW/Brauhaus as well. It finally settled at the Windhoek Showgrounds in 2003.
NOW IT WAS OFFICIAL
Free to dream on, the Venture team now focussed on the Expo mission of inclusion. The Namibia Tourism Board was formed in 2001 and Gideon Shilongo was appointed as CEO. For the first time the Expo was officially opened and he did the honours. With his blessing and the enthusiasm of the NTB’s Marketing Director, Shareen Thude, many pilot projects were initiated in 2003. The Mayor of Windhoek, Matheus Shikongo, agreed to a Windhoek Tourism Week to coincide with the Expo, and the City introduced the You Are Welcome campaign. Teens in Tourism was launched with support from the City of Windhoek’s Tourism Division, Grace Pujatura and Gladys Capuyan. Willem de Wet convinced the Hospitality Association to move their AGM to coincide with the Expo and offered to host the gala evening.
THE WINDOW TO THE WORLD OPENS
Maureen Postuma of NTB Frankfurt invited foreign media to meet exhibitors at the Expo and then travel around Namibia as a first step to introduce post event tours also for buyers and international operators. Air Namibia, by now a trusted partner, played an essential role in the success of these initiatives. NTB officially invited their counterparts in SADC to participate.
Gondwana Collection provided entertainment since the early years with innovative activities and exhibits, such as the Scarecrow Competition for kids with Republikein's school website, Namlish.com. Allan Kirby, President of TASA, suggested that we change the date of our Expo to inable international operators to visit us en route to the South African travel trade show, INDABA. Namibian NGOs, conservation, educational and support organisations, umbrella bodies, operators and emerging hospitality and tourism businesses joined the serious side of tourism promotion, while song, dance, food and art created the true Namibian atmosphere.
VENTURE PASSES IT ON
In 2006, with NTB well-established and the Republikein in full control as organiser, Venture Publications passed on the Expo baton - as we had promised to do once Namibia had an official tourism marketing body. We changed the name to Namibia Tourism Expo, commissioned Anika Jaeger to design a new logo and set about re-branding the event. 10 years later, the success of the Namibia Tourism Expo is evident. With NTB, the Ministry of Environment & Tourism, the City of Windhoek and corporate partners such as Nedbank Namibia and Bank Windhoek, the Namibia Tourism Expo is set on a path of success. Namibia Media Holdings (previously Democratic Media Holdings) with its range of newspapers serving different sectors of the Namibian society and its exceptional organisational infrastructure ensures that this event has a future. Ron Swilling, a freelance writer for Venture, described her first visit to the Expo in an article for Flamingo: “I was suddenly a child again, wide-eyed in a candy store. Before me lay a spread of multi-coloured, multi-flavoured sweets and treats. The display in front of me was a feast for anyone with a healthy appetite for wonder.” I realised then that we have succeeded in creating an event that stood the test of time. TNN
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AT THE 2016 NAMIBIA TOURISM EXPO We at Travel News Namibia love the yearly Namibia Tourism Expo. For us the Expo is four days of fun and laughter and catching up with old friends. For the past couple of years we’ve teamed up with our main partner company, StayToday. At the TNN and StayToday stand, which is the first stand you’ll come across in the President’s Hall, you can look forward to loads of fun and great prizes to be won! Come take a photo in our photo booth, this year it is a 1977 VW Kombi, get a free beer or cooldrink and stand a chance to win a fly-in adventure for two to an amazing Namibian destination! We’re not giving all our secrets away just yet, so join us at the Expo, get free copies of current and past TNN‘s and learn more about StayToday’s awesome Special Getaway packages and Last Minute accommodation deals. Come explore with us at the 2016 Namibia Tourism Expo!
DID YOU KNOW? Travel News Namibia is one of the many publications, products and initiatives created by Venture Media. Some of the others are the Namibia Holiday & Travel tourism directory, Conservation and the Environment in Namibia, the Namibia Trade Directory, the RMB Ride for Rhinos, various websites and more!
Fun and games at the 2015 NTE
TOURISM EXPO
OUR PARTNERS AT THE EXPO CYMOT
This year, in conjunction with Land Rover, CYMOT will be hosting legendary South African explorer Kingsley Holgate for a talk on conservation and adventure in southern Africa. The talk will take place at the CYMOT lapa on Thursday, 19 May. Attendance is by invitation only, but Kingsley will be at the stand on Thursday and Friday, enjoying the Expo festivities, so make sure to stop by. The CYMOT stand is an open-air exhibit and you’ll find them just down the walkway from the main entrance to the show grounds.
WESTAIR
Westair is Namibia's premier air charter company! Visit them in the Main Hall, stand number M12 and M13, to find out more about what they do and charter your next flight! You can also sign up for the TNN & StayToday Expo competition at their stand.
O&L LEISURE
With the opening of Strand Hotel last year, O&L Leisure has been busy reinvigorating Swakopmund. At this year’s Expo, O&L will bring a piece of the wonderful Strand to Windhoek. Join them in the Main Hall at stand number M39-42, where you’ll find a replica of the Strand Hotel’s Brewer & Butcher restaurant. Enjoy beer tastings from their microbrewery and delight in the vibe and Expo spirit! In June this year they will open a new establishment on the Chobe River in the Zambezi Region. Chobe Water Villas is set to be a spectacular and unique sense-ofplace experience.
NAMIBIA BREWERIES
Namibia Breweries Limited is celebrating 500 years of the Reinheitsgebot this year. NBL is one of the very few large-scale commercial breweries in sub-Saharan Africa that brew in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot standards. Celebrating this auspicious milestone, NBL has something very special planned for this year’s Expo. Join them at stand number C18-22, for a Pop-Up Beer Museum! Learn about their history, explore all that is brewing and enjoy Namibia’s favourite thirst quenchers!
NAMIBIA WILDLIFE RESORTS
Hardap Resort was re-opened last year and NWR will be promoting and celebrating this wonderful newly refurbished destination at this year’s Expo. Join them in the President’s Hall as part of the Namibian Tourism Stakeholders’ exhibit.
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ANOTHER FORM OF
PARADISE Dreaming in the treetops at Nambwa Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus
Elephants amble through the trees A lark chants in the background Baboons sit dreaming in the canopies A Hamerkop flies south
T
he stately animals make their way through the marshes. Slowly but surely they navigate the wet ground underfoot. Among them, barely sticking out above the tall grasses, you can make out the backs of young calves. They weave their way through their mothers’ legs. Hiding from the big world they haven’t quite gotten a grasp on yet. We are treading the off-road track that leads from the entrance gate of Bwabwata National Park to Nambwa Tented Lodge, when a herd of about 50 elephants crosses our path. We wait patiently as they pass, one by one, the sound of twigs and branches crushing underfoot as they make their way to the Kwando River not too far away. In 2007 the former Caprivi Game Park, proclaimed in 1966, was incorporated into the 6 100 km2 Bwabwata National Park, together with the Kwando - or Golden Triangle - and the Buffalo and Mahango (the former Mahango Game Park) core areas. The park is a sanctuary for 35 large game species – including elephant, buffalo, impala, reedbuck, red lechwe, sitatunga, hippo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, Chobe bushbuck, tsessebe, sable and roan antelope – and numerous small game species. Predators such as lion, leopard, cheetah
and African wild dog can also be found in the park. Most of these species congregate along the Okavango and Kwando riverbanks and at the Malombe and Ndwasa pans in the northeast. The Okavango and Kwando rivers and their respective floodplains are important habitats for wetland bird species such as wattled cranes and African skimmers. Over 400 bird species have been recorded here. Crocodiles and hippo flourish in the rivers, so beware. Bwabwata takes its name, which refers to the sound of bubbling water, from a village in the park. It forms part of the 278 132 km2 KavangoZambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area, the world’s largest conservation area. Nambwa Tented Lodge, on the Kwando River, is the only lodge inside Bwabwata National Park. The spacious tented suites are connected with walkways raised high enough for elephants to pass underneath, honouring their right of way. Upon arrival at the lodge we were met by managers Juan and Bertha and our guide for the duration of our stay, Beaven. Welcome drinks and excited conversation quickly ensued and we set off to explore this unique location.
When you’ve acquired a taste for dust, The scent of our f irst rain, You’re hooked for life on Africa and you’ll not be right again.
OUR NAMBWA BIRDING CHECKLIST: We spotted these birds on our recent trip: ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏
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African Stone Chat African Skimmer Pied Kingfisher Wattled Cranes Orange-breasted Bushshrike Water Thick-knee Green Pigeon Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Swainson’s Francolin Village Weaver Yellow-billed Oxpecker White-faced ducks Carmine Bee-eater Banded Martin Hamerkop Egyptian Geese Goliath Heron Osprey Fish Eagle
- From ‘Africa’ by Emily Debb
As you make your way across the wooden walkways it feels as if you have stumbled through a wormhole into a tropical rainforest. The overwhelming green, the clean fresh scents and the sounds of birds chatting a mile a minute… This is not Namibia as we know it. It’s another form of paradise Early in the morning we were woken by the soft thuds of movement on the boardwalks. It was Chef Lasken bringing us coffee in bed. Three kudu cows strolled across the floodplain that the lodge’s main viewing deck overlooks. I sipped my coffee as I gazed at the beautiful ladies making their way through the early morning mist, but there wasn’t too much time to lounge around - there’s a river to explore! Soon we were scooted along to where a boat was docked on the riverbank. The tuk-tuk-tuk of the engine and the soft lapping of water were the only sounds as we slowly made our way down the Kwando. The river was a bevy of aviary activity and our bird-loving hearts fluttered with excitement. Beaven’s eagle eyes spotted and identified birds left and right before we could even think to ask. We spent the morning ticking off one lifer after the other. Who needs a Roberts’ when there is a Beaven on board?
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Our next Nambwa adventure took place on dry land and four wheels. Zambezi teak and knob thorn dotted the bushland. Beaven pointed out and named the trees as we drove along the tracks following the tributaries of the Kwando River. We spent two hours driving through the beautiful green shades of the park, spotting kudu, lechwe and impala grazing or darting through the bush. In a shallow pond along one of the Kwando floodplains a lone hippo bull lazed away in the water, enjoying full access to his own private mud bath. Giraffe moved alongside our game-viewer as we made our way toward one of the most popular attractions in the area, Horseshoe Lagoon. Here, the Kwando River does an about-turn as if it has all of a sudden changed its mind about its final destination. As we approached the Horseshoe “beachfront” we were met with a very welcome sight. A sundowner surprise, complete with bonfire, camping chairs in a semicircle, a snack bar and the all-important Gin & Tonic station, was set up on the riverbank. The dramatic sunset, made even more spectacular by the storm clouds overhead, was a perfect backdrop. We enjoyed soup and delectable snacks as we sipped our
sundowners, chatting away around the fire. Hippos called in the distance, their iconic grunts complimenting the aesthetics of this unforgettable experience. Upon our return to the lodge that evening our baths were drawn and decorated with flower petals. Never before had I felt quite so spoiled as we indulged in the lavishness of it all. Sitting around the dinner table that evening, sated after a wonderful meal, we absorbed the atmosphere of this magical place. According to our hosts, Dusty and Tinolla, the word ‘Nambwa’ does not have any specific meaning. I feel that it should, though. It deserves a wonderful description or a romantic story to surround it as nature surrounds the lodge itself. Maybe we’ll make one up… Nambwa: where elephants roam. Nambwa: the place of dreams. Nambwa: paradise on the river. Reveries aside, it was time to say ‘good night’, or Rareni po nawa, and return to our tree houses, where we listened to the soft coos of the nightjars until we drifted off to a peaceful sleep filled with African dreams. TNN www.africanmonarchlodges.com
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African Green-Pigeon, the only beauty among the beasts in the world of doves.
DOVES
and Pigeons
Text and photographs Pompie Burger
One should always be suspicious of f ishermen and pigeon farmers - Dad -
H
earing doves, probably African Mourning Doves (Streptopelia decipiens), sing always makes me sad. It takes me back to my youth, when I attended a funeral on a cold winter’s day in the Bethal district on a farm in Mpumalanga, leaving me with a feeling of melancholy. When I visited my dad two years ago a few weeks before he passed away, I was amazed how many doves still stay there in the oak trees that Oom Fred Smit planted way back in the early 1950s along all the sidewalks of our town. Now these massive trees are still part and parcel of Bethal, and I think Oom Fred will be over the moon to see his trees still standing, hosting hundreds of happy doves. The first (and the last) bird I ever shot with a catapult was a dove. It will probably not make me a hunter in the true sense of the word, but thinking back to that day I somehow still feel guilty. The main reason why I stopped “hunting” at that stage was probably not so much a “green” decision, but rather my lack of shooting skills. With my talent it was probably the only bird I would have been able to shoot, seeing that doves aren’t that nimble. This then is a tribute to my dad, that dove, and Oom Fred. To be quite frank, my first encounter with birds was not the dove I shot, but my brother Brink’s Tumblers and Fantails. At this stage I must mention that Bethal is not the epicentre
The African Mourning Dove has a red ring around its yellow eye, which distinguishes it from the Red-eyed Dove.
A Namaqua Dove admires the elegant butterflies flitting away.
BIRDING WITH POMPIE
African Green Pigeons (Papegaaiduif ), the love birds of the pigeons. of the ornithological world, so I should be forgiven for not knowing more about the fascinating world of birds, apart from doves. For example, it was only recently that I came to realize that there are doves and pigeons, but apparently this is only a matter of colloquialism, with doves being small and pigeons big. This sounds very scientific to me in any case. The biblical reputation of doves by far exceeds their elegance and intellect. From the word ‘go’ doves were involved in saving Noah’s squad, right up to the end where
An Emerald Spotted Dove flaunting his beautiful dots.
the Holy Ghost came down to earth in the form of a dove. Although they exceed all other birds in the bible as far as reputation is concerned, one unfortunately has to mention that they are not in the top twenty as far as elegance (they should really work on their landing and take-off technique), beauty (apart from the African Green Pigeon (Treron calvus) there is not much to get excited about) and intelligence (small heads, small brains) are concerned. There is a definite decline in their status and their contribution to mankind/birdkind in the modern era compared to their
Cape Turtle Doves show off their landing skills.
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importance in biblical times. One might also mention that they are probably the most sexually active birds on earth, so full marks for their reproductive abilities as well as their high success rate in the process. There are over 255 dove/pigeon species worldwide, found in most parts of the world except in the polar regions and some oceanic islands. In southern Africa there are 15 species of which Namibia supports nine. As one would expect, the most diverse (and most good-looking) groups are found in the Zambezi region: the African Green Pigeon, the Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis), the African Mourning Dove, the Cape Turtle (Streptopeli) and Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis). Not to be outdone, there is a relative good representation of doves in the arid western parts of Namibia, namely the Laughing, Cape-turtle, Rock and Namaqua doves and the Speckled Pigeon (Columba guinea). Most of these also occur throughout Namibia. Doves and pigeons have adapted quite well to the good life in cities and towns. The Laughing Dove is probably the best adapted, with the Speckled Pigeon and the Cape turtle Dove
also well represented. For some reason the Namaqua Dove and the Emerald Spotted Dove are not that common in the urban areas. As far as garden birds are concerned, the Laughing Doves are my favourite visitors. Apart from eating all the seed from my feeder, they do attract a lot of raptors which are in turn a more than welcome variety in the bouquet of visitors to our garden. In addition to Rock Kestrels (Falco rupicolus) we had visits by a Gabar Goshawk (Melierax gabar) and a Little Sparrow Hawk (Accipiter minullus). These raptors must have had good reminiscences of our garden, with a very high strike rate success on my defenceless doves. I must mention that they are in very good company with the neighbour’s cat as far as effectiveness is concerned. The good news is that our two Corgis’ strike rate is less than zero. In fact I suspect that the chances of one of the Speckled Doves catching one of the Corgis are probably higher than the other way round. Unfortunately they are rather awkward when landing on the feeder (the doves not the Corgis), usually scattering all the seeds on the ground and sometimes even a few Blue Waxbills. My least favourite is the Rock / Feral Pigeon (Columba livia) which was spread worldwide and has adapted quite well in the cities
A Specked Pigeon with its snake-like eye spotted at the Spitzkoppe. They are often seen within city limits too.
BIRDING WITH POMPIE and towns of Namibia. These pigeons seem to occur mostly in the streets in the middle of town, picking up pieces of Steers and Kentucky leftovers (one wonders if they know this could have been family).The last and probably the most important dove is the clay dove, a very well-known species in Namibia. They are important because they satisfy the bloodthirsty gunners’/shooters’/killers’ never-ending lust for killing without actually reducing our avian population in the process. One cannot end this without mentioning the other main claim to fame of this group of birds. They are known to be used during various wars as important messengers who saved thousands of lives. In the same way they have been used by smugglers transporting diamonds, also saving a lot of guys from financial disaster. Indeed there are 86 dove statues in the world, commemorating their contribution to making the world a better place. The only dove farmer I know is André Olivier (he does not wear white socks), so my dad was not 100% spot-on with his diagnosis. Two other famous dovers are Bles Bridges and Mike Tyson, needless to say, no comment. TNN
Beware of people who hunt birds and wear white socks - Son -
Laughing Doves looking rather serious.
A male Namaqua Dove overshadowing its female counterpart in the background.
The Red-eyed Dove has a red ring around its brown eye.
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Adventure awaits
JOIN SCENIC AIR FOR FLEXIBLE, PERSONAL CHARTERS CATERED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS!
Windhoek Office: Tel: +264 61 249 268 Email: windhoek@scenic-air.com
www.scenic-air.com
Swakopmund Office: Tel: +264 64 403 575 Email: swakopmund@scenic-air.com
Elzanne Erasmus
TAKE A BREAK ON THE ROAD BETWEEN RUNDU AND KATIMA Text Ron Swilling
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The Okavango River forms the border between Namibia and Angola
Journeys are about exploring and discovering. They are crammed with surprises: interesting people, fascinating stories and intriguing places. Instead of racing to your destination, consider slowing down and spicing up your trip with some colourful stops. TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2016
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Ron Swilling
T
reasures abound in the Kavango and Zambezi (formerly the Caprivi) regions in the north-eastern part of the country. Travelling through this area provides an opportunity to meet people whose lives revolve around the rivers; to search for the abundant wildlife – elephants, buffalo and wild dog included; and to luxuriate on – or next to - verdant waterways with water lilies, bird life, hippos and, yes, crocs! It’s the cherry on the top! The north-eastern corner complements and completes a trip around the rest of Namibia, adding a burst of greenery and filling all the gaps to provide a well-balanced, superlative journey.
TO DIVUNDU AND POPA FALLS
When you arrive in Rundu or, ideally, after breakfasting at your lodge on the banks of the Okavango River, the Kavango town is a good place to buy groceries, repair tyres, visit the banks and fill up with fuel before heading east. A bevy of shops and supermarkets line the main drag where travellers can pick up all they need for the road. The B8 or Trans-Caprivi Highway leads eastwards from here into the heart of Africa. It’s a tree-lined road, interspersed with small villages - a rural world of wattle and daub houses. Along the roadside bundles of wood are often for sale and butter-coloured thatching grass at certain times of the year. Larger villages may sport a shebeen or mini-market and it’s common to see a group of people chatting in the shade of
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Elzanne Erasmus
A typical scene along the B8: women carrying buckets of water or goods on their heads.
Large numbers of African or Cape Buffalo (Syncerus caffer) roam in the Bwabwata, Mudumu and Nkasa Rupara National Parks in the Zambezi Region. a tree, children playing or women selling food out of bright plastic tubs. Slow down through the settlements and keep eyes open for children, cows and goats. Divundu is the next stop for fuel, simple bathroom facilities and a chance to stock up on supplies and dry goods in the small supermarket. The best viewpoint of Popa Falls is reached from the turnoff to the N//goabaca community campsite soon after the bridge and the police checkpoint. Contrary to its name, Popa is not a waterfall at all, but a series of rapids across the Okavango River! The four kilometres gravel track takes you past the correctional services unit to the campsite where you are required to pay a small fee at the reception hut before continuing further down the road.
TAKE A BREAK ON THE ROAD A PEOPLE’S PARK, A LIVING MUSEUM AND BASKETS GALORE
Back on the tar, you surprisingly find yourself in the Bwabwata National Park. And you will be even more surprised to see people and cows wandering about. Formerly the Caprivi Game Park, Bwabwata was established after independence when few animals and a large population remained in the area. The innovative solution was to create a multi-use area for people and wildlife, and core areas solely for wildlife. The 6100 km² national park extends all the way from the Okavango River in the west to the Kwando River in the east, i.e. Divundu to Kongola. Your heart might miss a beat when you notice your first elephant caution signs – and elephant dung on the roadside, and if lucky, you may spot these huge pachyderms amongst the trees. Your heart might miss another beat – or two – when you spot wild dog caution signs further along the road. Those fortunate enough to see one of Africa’s rarest carnivores are supremely blessed. Picnic tables under large trees are appealing places for leisurely lunch stops along this 200 km stretch, although you may have to compete with cows for the shady spots.
Kongola is a welcome stop for fuel, fresh bread at the KAZA-Kongola trading store – and souvenir shopping at Mashi Crafts on the opposite side of the road. Mashi Crafts is a treasure house of well-made goods from the surrounding conservancies. Pick up a carved walking stick, an expertly woven basket or a chair fit for a king.
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
Although it is still another 163 km on the B8 to reach Katima, the slightly longer route along the C49 (MR125) has recently been tarred and is a tempting alternate route for overnighting on the Kwando River, visiting the smaller, more remote Zambezi National Parks, the Namushasha Heritage Centre, Sheshe Crafts and the Livingstone Museum. If these pique your interest, veer right towards Sangwali and Linyanti. You are now in the Mashi Conservancy and homesteads line the road. Women and children with
Ron Swilling
The new Susuwe office is the place to purchase permits for exploring Bwabwata’s core areas. (Horseshoe, the oxbow lake popular for elephant sightings, is reached along the 4x4
sandy track towards Nambwa Camp.) A bridge spanning the floodplains and a police checkpoint lie ahead, as well as the D3502 to Singalamwe and the Living Museum of the Mafwe, built in a grove of baobabs at the end of the road. It’s worth making a turn here to learn how to weave a mat, taste local fare or watch in awe as the Mafwe swing hips to lively drumbeats.
Popa Falls is a series of rapids along the Okavango River.
Ron Swilling
Ron Swilling
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Bester Mutanincwa is the manager of Mashi Crafts at Kongola, where you can purchase a wide variety of locally handcrafted goods.
Elzanne Erasmus Ron Swilling
Horseshoe Lagoon is a popular stopover in Bwabwata National Park. Here, the Kwando River makes a bow shaped turn and is frequented by elephants.
Elzanne Erasmus
Members of the Namushasha Heritage Centre treat guests to an energetic song and dance performance.
containers on their heads are a common sight as they make their way to the communal water pumps.
permits can be purchased for the 1010 km² (101 000 hectare) expanse, characterised by mopane woodland and water.
The turnoff to the Namushasha Heritage Centre is twenty kilometres along the C49. Built out of reeds and grasses from the area, it encircles the baobab that was once used to spot poachers attempting to cross the Kwando River. Information boards describe different facets of the Zambezi culture, including diverse topics such as musical instruments, pottery and witch doctors. Watch metal-work and basket-weaving displays before being treated to an energetic song and dance performance.
There are several interesting places to stop along the road to Sangwali, further along the C49. Sheshe Crafts is first. A small craft shop displaying the well-made basketry and woodwork of the Zambezi craftsmen, Sheshe is an excellent spot to pick up authentic Namibian gifts, while supporting the local community. The tiny Livingstone Museum is next. Adolf Waidelich from Livingstone’s Camp will open the museum for you - by appointment - and regale you with the history of the famous explorer and anti-slavery advocate.
CRAFTS, THE SMALLEST MUSEUM IN AFRICA & REMOTE NATIONAL PARKS
Unknown to most, Livingstone spent time in the Linyanti area in 1851 and befriended the local Makololo chief, Sebetwane. The museum was built by Linus Mukwata in memory of the tragic Helmore-Price mission and contains
If you have time on hand and a 4x4 vehicle, Mudumu National Park is reached from the Ngenda Park Station turnoff where
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TAKE A BREAK ON THE ROAD TAKE A BREAK FROM
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Children pose for a photo on the road to Namushasha River Lodge. Adolf Waidelich in the small Livingstone Museum, built in memory of the Helmore-Price mission.
Elzanne Erasmus
Elzanne Erasmus
Tutwa Tourism and Travel shop is a great stopover in Katima Mulilo. They provide information on the region and organise activities and tours.
several artefacts as well as large maps of the routes taken by Livingstone, the Makololos and the Helmore-Price group. Bridges over the waterways, built by Adolf and Linus over the last six years, provide easy access for visitors. This is also the route into Nkasa Rupara National Park. One of the smallest national parks, named after the two islands, Nkasa and Rupara, it is 80% waterlogged after seasons of good rainfall. Permits are purchased at the Shisinze Park Station. If you have a good sense of direction, a GPS, 4x4 expertise and are travelling in a convoy of at least two vehicles, this 320 km² water world may be for you. Alternatively, continue to civilisation and a different sort of adventure at Katima Mulilo. Make a stop on your way in at Tutwa Tourism & Travel for a bite to eat, a cup of coffee and some tips on the town. Crafts, fishing on the Zambezi River
and a stay in a houseboat – or a lodge nestled between four countries - await you, or simply a good shopping spree before heading into Zambia or Botswana. Whatever your direction or intention, most importantly, enjoy the journey. Mooi ry! TNN
MORE INFORMATION For more information on the Zambezi and Kavango Regions of north-eastern Namibia, visit the DESTINATIONS page on www.travelnewsnamibia.com.
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Let’s go on an adventure:
Elzanne Erasmus
TIGER FISHING IN NAMIBIA
Razor-sharp teeth. Torpedo-shaped bodies. A bright glint in the water. A sudden strong tug on your line. Thrashing and splashing and an epic reel session. That’s what it’s like going f ishing for tigers in the Zambezi. Searching for the unpredictable and f ierce tigerf ish can be one hell of an adventure. Do you think you have what it takes?
T
he tigerfish is Africa’s premier freshwater game fish. A relaxing day on a river can quickly give way to a pumping adrenaline rush as a feisty tiger grabs hold of your bait or spinner. Travel News Namibia recently interviewed owner and operator of Caprivi Adventures, Riaan Bester, to talk adventure safaris and fishing, and to get some pointers on how to land a sharp-toothed beauty.
FEAR THE BEAST
The thrill of persuing the notoriously hard-to-catch ‘tiger of the Zambezi’ is what draws fishermen to the Zambezi Region time and again, especially if they’re on a mission to land the ‘one that got away’. Tigerfish are known for their aggressive temperament, supreme speed, aerobatic
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capabilities and steel-like jaws. They have silver-striped bodies with bright-red and yellow fins and tail, and they hunt in schools of like-sized fish.
WHEN TO GO FISHING
According to Riaan, the best trophy fishing takes place from the start of December to the end of January. As from February the water in the north-eastern rivers is usually too high and too murky for effective angling. Another good time to head for the stream is toward the end of May, when the water level starts to drop again. The May/June/July period yields the most tigers, but these are usually smaller than those caught during December/January. A trophy tiger ranges from 4.5kg upwards. 10 pounds is the trophy standard.
LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION
The north-eastern rivers in the Kavango and Zambezi regions of Namibia are an essential life force to the people and wildlife of the area. Teeming with life, including crocs and hippos, the Okavango, Kwando, Linyanti (which becomes the Chobe) and the Zambezi are rich feeding grounds, each yielding different species in larger numbers. There aren’t too many truly big tigerfish in the Okavango, though they are present in numbers, and the Kwando hasn’t relinquished much in recent years. Hands down, though, the Zambezi is the place to be for the angler serious about landing his tiger!
Marita van Rooyen
ADVENTURE
SOMETHING TO WRITE HOME ABOUT
Only one out of ten tigers hooked is actually landed, and it can be a very difficult job to reel one in. Over the years Riaan has taken many people out on the river. For some it was a hobby they’d indulged in many times before and for these people the purpose of the expedition was to find that sought after trophy size.
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Marita van Rooyen
Marita van Rooyen
Elzanne Erasmus
The thrill of hunting the notoriously hard-to-capture, ‘tiger of the Zambezi’ is what draws f ishermen to the Zambezi Region time and again. For others it was the first time and more of a passing fascination. But no matter how serious the fisherman is, great stories have been collected. One lady caught the first fish of her life while on tour with Caprivi Adventures. The fact that that particular fish just happened to be an 8kg whopper of a tiger was just incidental. On another excursion a man had to have a particularly hungry tiger’s strong jaws unclasped from around his arm. A 5-year old kid playing on the side of the boat with his little toy rod pulled out a four-kilogramer. Riaan insists that you haven’t felt close enough to the action if you haven’t experienced a tiger jumping over the mokoro you’re seated in. You might want to give that particular mode of river transport a go too. On another occasion they had been fishing along a sandbank when a tiger was hooked. The fish thrashed around so aggressively that it landed itself on the boat. So much for looking forward to the fight… Thanks for the help, Mr Tiger!
TIPS AND TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Riaan advises that you always give yourself more than one day on the river. Fish don’t always bite as you would like or expect them to. Some informed individuals ponder the influence of humidity and water temperature on tiger behaviour, but sometimes they just aren’t in the mood for a nibble. With Caprivi Adventures, and all other legitimate operators in Namibia, fishing is strictly on a Catch and Release basis. There are three different techniques for tiger fishing: drifting,
WHERE?
Any of the following establishments along the northeastern rivers provide tiger fishing exursions : • Kalizo Lodge • Shamvura • Island View • Caprivi Houseboat • Caprivi Collection Safaris
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trawling and spinning. Each method uses a different kind of bait and the effectiveness of each of them varies in different locations. Drifting, for example, works best when the water is murkier and the water level higher. Trawling is best done with two rods leading out from behind the boat. Spinning is the more active, yet less effective method. With spinning it is best to target specific areas in the river, such as rapids, reeds and sandbanks. If you’re an avid fisherman you may want to sign up for one of the two big freshwater angling competitions that take place on the north-eastern rivers each year. The CrocKango is held on the Okavango River during May and the Zambezi Classic takes place toward the end of August. These competitions often attract as many as 60 boats-full of anglers and the prizes to be won are very alluring, no pun intended… If you’re out to go fishing just for pleasure it might be best, however, to avoid these rivers at those specific times.
AND SO THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
If you are keen for a new adventure, a thrilling ride and a great story to add to your life’s tale, it may be worth it to visit one of Namibia’s tiger-infested rivers. Hop on a boat, cast a line and steel yourself against that exhilarating tug. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all and we wish you all the best on your tiger fishing expedition! TNN
GEAR UP AT CYMOT: Get the right gear to make the most of your tiger fishing adventure: • Gold Fish lure • Daiwa Exceler Reel • 7 ft P/Plus Tiger Edition Rod • Walker Pearl lure • Hot Head lure • Braid Fishing line
HEAD OFFICE & WAREHOUSE 15 Newcastle Street PO Box 726 Windhoek Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000 info@cymot.com • www.cymot.com
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TUNA SALAD in Tjum!kui Text and photographs Christie Keulder
At the end of a long stretch of gravel road, the C44, there is a hamlet called Tjum!kui. On the map it says “ Tsumkwe” and in the minds of many it is the “capital city of the Ju/’hoansi San community”.
FOODIES
Manketti Fruit
I
do not think I am offending anyone if I say that Tsumkwe is not much of a capital city. It is small - very small. It is empty - very empty. The only thing that even remotely resembles a traffic jam, are the school children congregating at the school’s gates at the start and end of the school day. Strange as it may sound, I have not seen a single taxi in Tsumkwe; nor have I heard a single car’s horn being honked. I have seen people conduct all of their normal daily business within a radius of 200 meters and well within the time frame of an hour. During that time they would have visited their regional councillor, prayed with the local priest, complained to the schoolmaster, bought something from the shopkeeper, chatted with the community worker, practiced with the music teacher, greeted the head of police, bartered with the community gardener, ignored the local political party representative, shaken hands with the informal market coordinator, hanged with friends, bumped into foes and sworn at a few stray dogs and cattle. At the end of their exhaustive excursion into the city centre they would retire to a shady tree for a cold beer, or sit at the fuel station to watch government cars and tourist camper vans fill up. People are friendly in Tsumkwe. During the course of a single day the same stranger accosted me six or seven times, each time shaking my hand while asking for spare change and wishing my family well. After a day in town I realised that no one is a stranger any more. If my observations are correct, only three types of people ever visit Tsumkwe: government employees, development workers and romantic anthropology students from afar. Only a few stay around for longer than what is required by the task at hand.
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People go about their business in a quiet undisturbed manner. I watched two old men carrying heavy pumpkins from their field to their homes. It must have been their entire harvest for they were busy the whole morning – chatting, walking, and carrying two pumpkins at a time. I offered to ferry them and all of their precious cargo with my pick-up truck, but they declined the offer. It was only much later that I realised that my well-intended offer would have disturbed their daily routine. If the only commodity you have is time, why waste it by concluding your tasks as quickly as possible? What would there be left to do all day, if all the pumpkins were secured in ten minutes? No, they were happy taking care of business their way. There was no need to hurry. Instead they chose to use their time keenly and wisely – stay active and be in the company of a friend all day long. They have no need for speed, and I was at fault for not realising that basic chores such as fetching pumpkins from the field are a much-valued social activity. Even though my visit was short I learnt a lot in Tsumkwe, but I also feel that my perception of time and how it should be used, robbed me from exploring Tsumkwe to its full potential. What makes a man give up a successful career in the city to pursue his dream of teaching poor, rural children how to play the guitar? In our society where race and class are so tightly intertwined, what motivates a white family to live among the poorest of the poor, seemingly quite happy and content? For what reason do we regard a man’s clothes – sandals made from giraffe-skin and a buckskin loincloth – rather than his genetic makeup as the true indication of his ‘authenticity’? No matter how hard I tried, I could not find anyone in Tsumkwe who was not an authentic human.
The purpose of my visit to Tsumkwe kept me busy: too busy to stop and unravel the complex social fibres that give this community its soul. I know that my official business, the very reason for my visit to Tsumkwe, will not count for much when I’m asked to consider my personal contributions to the greater good of all humanity. Other than the time I consumed to do what I was asked to do, I have only a traditional pumpkin to show for my efforts. That is, if I believe everything I was told about this specimen. I had a strong suspicion that it might not be pumpkin, but a melon instead, but until I take the time to cut and inspect it, I can’t be sure. As is the case with the hamlet of Tsumkwe, there might be much more than what initially meets the eye. The one thing I do know, however, is that Tsumkwe is not the gastronomic capital of the country, or the region or even the district. The man or woman, who travels to Tsumkwe expecting to eat well, will return a raging, deprived culinary lunatic. One lunch consisting of two Russian sausages (they might even have been made with Angolan or Cuban body parts, who knows) and a small serving of slaptjips reduced me to a pathetic, whimpering ball of self-pity in less time than it took to cover the thirty or so meters between Tsumkwe’s police station and the regional council’s office. Shopping for food at the local shops is a great way to save money: what you want, they don’t have; and what they have, you don’t want. With some luck we found a couple of dusty tins of tuna, a whole bag of tomatoes and a familiar brand of mayonnaise. Yeah baby! Tuna salad in Tsumkwe! TNN
Proud to be
HIMBA Text and Photographs Ginger Mauney
There is an otherworldliness to Hartmann’s Valley. The remoteness, the drama of rolling red sand dunes against layers of grey mountains, and the tantalising sound of flowing water as the Kunene River divides the wilds of Namibia from the mystery of Angola.
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here is one group of people who complement and complete this natural extravagance – the Himba.
From Wilderness Safaris’ camp at Serra Cafema we drive towards the Himba village Otapi. From a distance the outline of a circle comes into focus. It is shaped by sparsely formed domed huts and no sign of life. It could have been there for a thousand years. As we drive closer, the immediacy of life brings the scene into focus. Cattle graze in the background and a small cluster of women and children rest in the shade against one of the huts. My guide, Darius, stops the vehicle, picks up a walking stick and together we slowly make our way towards the group of women. One woman nurses her baby. Toddlers beat on an empty water bottle. Two elderly women exchange words that could be aggressive or simply animated conversation, if one only knew the language. Nursing, drumming, yelling, they continue as if we weren’t there. After keeping a respectful distance for a while, Darius moves closer to the group and greets the women. They listen, they laugh and then they motion for me to come forward. “They said that you are welcome here.” I nod and smile. They laugh. At me or with me, I’m not sure,
but my smile broadens. Through Darius I ask their permission to ask them a few questions and to take photographs. The two elderly women stop yelling and nod their heads. That will be ok. This is the dance of respect. It is essential and right. We start by talking about the weather – a universal conversation. How were the rains? Is the grazing good? What happens when the rains stop and the grasses disappear? For a semi-nomadic people the answers come easily. They move with the rains to where their beloved cattle and goats can find good grazing. When the rains stop they no longer milk their cattle, but use some of the money they earn from tourists to buy staples such as beans and sugar from Angolans across the river. Before I could ask more questions, one of the elderly women stood up and walked closer to me. She pointed to her bare feet, then ran her hands up her legs, spun around and flipped her leather skirt while her hands continued up the length of her body before resting on the top of her head. A running stream of commentary accompanied these actions, as Darius explained what she was saying by pointing to the metal bangles circling her ankles and to her hairstyle and leather belt.
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She showed me the markings on her chest where cuts were made long ago to release an illness. This is just one of the many traditions of the Himba. Their clothes, their hairstyles and adornments signify stages of life from childhood to puberty to marriage and motherhood. It is a beautiful, evolving chronicle of life that hasn’t changed in centuries. She ends her soliloquy by saying that she’s proud – proud to be a Himba and proud that tourists are interested in her culture. We talked, I laughed, more easily now, and I took a few more photographs. No one posed, no one was asked to.
Before I left, they spread a cloth in the sand and laid out a few carved makalani nuts, some bangles and necklaces that they had made using traditional skills and materials and were now giving me a chance to buy. I selected a necklace. It reminded me of the bangles around the woman’s ankles. It was a natural exchange and a natural time to leave. Driving away, the scene was rewound. The children played, the shadows swallowed the group of women, the huts became a wide circle against the desert backdrop, and life continued, unhurried and unchanged, as it has for thousands of years. TNN
Paul van Schalkwyk
Their clothes, their hairstyles and adornments signify stages of life from childhood to puberty to marriage and motherhood. It is a beautiful, evolving chronicle of life that hasn’t changed in centuries.
Paul van Schalkwyk
THE TRADITIONS OF THE HIMBA
Our journeys change lives
Ground-breaking Community Partnership, Damaraland,
Namibia
Damaraland Camp is one of Namibia’s success stories, where Wilderness Safaris created a formal partnership with the community – paying fees and obtaining permission to operate a camp and drive through community land. The result? Increased employment for community members, and increase in wildlife in Namibia’s Damaraland area. We’re proud to be part of growing communities and conservation in Namibia.
www.wilderness-safaris.com
ONDILI LODGES & ACTIVITIES IN NAMIBIA Bookings - Namibia Travel Consultants Tel (+264 61) 24 0020 | Fax (+264 61) 30 4290 | www.ondili.com reservations@homestead.com.na www.deserthomesteadoutpost.com
reservations@homestead.com.na www.deserthomesteadlodge.com
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timelen@iway.na www.timelen.com
CONSERVATION THROUGH EDUCATION
THE AFRICAT FOUNDATION Text and Photographs Annabelle Venter
A non-profit organisation, committed to the long-term conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores I’m sure you’ve seen the heading “Okonjima, home of the AfriCat Foundation”? In our Autumn issue we learnt that at Okonjima tourism supports conservation - but where exactly does AfriCat f it in? Back in the 1970s the Hanssen family ran Okonjima near Otjiwarongo as a successful cattle farm, but increasing stock losses due to large predator attacks on their livestock forced them to explore alternative farming methods (you can read the full story in issue no. 17 of Travel News Namibia). 56
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s a family passionate about wildlife and practising alternative farming methods they were keen to share their knowledge with neighbouring farmers. Instead, however, they were asked to remove cheetahs and sometimes the leopards that farmers assumed were killing their livestock. Some were released on far-away wild lands and some ended up at AfriCat, but the family knew that this was not a long-term solution. A need arose for education,
research and conservation regarding large carnivores but the Hanssens lacked the funds to achieve their objective. Finally, in 1993, the Hanssen siblings established the AfriCat Foundation as an independent entity separate from Okonjima Guest farm. AfriCat now covers a range of activities with the focus squarely on educating everyone from pre-school learners to adults.
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ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION STARTS WITH OUR CHILDREN!
change old habits easily, we will often listen to our children who have seen and learnt the benefits of conservation practices first-hand. At Okonjima and AfriCat North more than 30 000 children and young adults have benefited from these programmes since 1998. Helen is also involved in adult education programmes which include equipping farmers, teachers, guides and decision-makers with the necessary skills to ensure the long term protection of predators.
‘Conservation through Education’ is the message outside the school building. A friendly border collie rushes out to meet us, immediately followed by her mistress, cofounder Yolande Roos. Established seven years ago and co-sponsored by Okonjima and an investor from Britain, Perivoli Okonjima Country School is open to all children on Okonjima. The school has grown from 20 to currently 70 learners, from kindergarten through to Grade 5. School starts at 7am and after the lunch break homework is done back at school while the parents are still working. A compulsory half an hour of reading is practised daily. At this charming country school a love of nature is instilled in the children from day one – hopefully fostering a lifelong commitment to conservation.
AFRICAT NORTH
Here, the bush feels close by and the focus is on environmental education and physical fitness. The children are taught to take care of the environment. Hiccup, an orphaned warthog, went to school with the kids until he was two years old. Jima the collie has attended school since she was a puppy and has helped the children to overcome any fear of dogs! Week-long school camps for secondary school learners are offered at the AfriCat Environmental Education Camp PAWS (People and Wildlife Solutions). Intensive programmes include learning about hands-on conservation while living in rustic tents on the mountainside. These camps are organised and run by the Hanssen siblings’ aunt Helen Newmarch, and the children get to meet the carnivore ambassadors in their large enclosures, studying each cat close-up before visiting the wild and rehabilitated predators on the reserve.
AfriCat North’s goal is primarily to resolve human-wildlife conflict and monitor lion movement between Etosha, Hobatere and the bordering farmlands. Tammy HothHanssen, older sister to the Okonjima Hanssen siblings, heads the team based in nearby Kamanjab. Their aim is to support commercial and communal farmers by offering management strategies for protecting their livestock, rather than removing the problem animals. The team provides and constructs lion and hyena-proof kraals for protection at night and early in the morning when these predators are on the prowl for prey. The team also offers
The goal of educating children through conservation is that even though the older generations may not welcome advice or
Mulder, now 12 years old remains in captivity as an AfriCat ambassador
advice on daytime protection of livestock and sustainable grazing management. Their goal is to improve the income of local farmers, prevent stock losses and reduce the killing of lions and other large predators which move in and out of nearby Etosha. Environmental Education Programmes are also offered for young people and farmers in the area. Four lion cubs which were rescued here some years ago joined the other carnivore ambassadors at the AfriCat Carnivore Care Centre at Okonjima.
RESEARCH
Researcher Jenny Noack has been at AfriCat for a year and a half to study the resident wild leopard population of Okonjima. So far 35 leopards have been identified, of which 14 have been collared. Jenny’s work includes monitoring the 20 flashcamera traps that she has spaced evenly over the 20 000 ha reserve. The data and images collected from these cameras help AfriCat to better understand the density and movements of their leopard population. Several of the rehabilitated cheetahs that have been re-introduced to the reserve were killed by the leopards, therefore the de-bushing programme is of prime importance in order to give the cheetahs the open plains they desperately need to avoid the leopards.
CARNIVORE CARE CENTRE
Okonjima and AfriCat’s mission has always been to ‘to keep wild carnivores wild’. Of the more than 1080 carnivores rescued by AfriCat 85% were released, 5% died and the remaining 10% can’t be released. 34 animals are now in AfriCat’s care: 15 cheetahs, 4 leopards and 3 lions that make up the carnivore ambassadors of AfriCat. They cannot be released back into the wild, either because they have become tame or habituated to people, or were orphaned and never taught how to hunt. A further 12 cheetahs are awaiting release in the private nature reserve. The Carnivore Care Centre provides care for orphaned, injured and young predators until such time that they can be rehabilitated and released back into the wild. Annual health checks by a team of specialist veterinarians are done on all the captive and rehabilitated carnivores at the new animal clinic here. This also forms part of AfriCat’s research programme carried out by veterinary specialists. Among others, findings on stress levels and diets of captive and wild animals are compared.
TOP Teacher Sandy instructs Grades 4 and 5.
LEFT Researcher Jenny Noack checking a camera trap on Okonjima.
BELOW Thimba the Carnivore Ambas-
sador that succumbed to cancer on 17 April 2016, and Donna Hanssen who runs AfriCat on Okonjima.
BOTTOM The AfriCat Environmental Education centre's camp at Okonjima.
Even from a distance there are many ways to support this extraordinary foundation. Visit www.africat.org/support to find out how you can contribute to environmental education, community support and ensuring the survival of large carnivores in Namibia. TNN
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TOP CAMPSITES
inside Namibia's Parks
Namibia’s 17 national parks are Namibia's most special and valuable asset. Teeming with wildlife and spectacular scenery, they are an attraction not to be missed. From mountain adventures in the Naukluft to the stark isolation and towering dunes of the Namib, the biodiversity and contrasts will amaze and surprise you. Take in the sites of Herero history at the Waterberg, explore the riverbanks along the country’s north-eastern rivers in Bwabwata or spend hours watching wildlife in Namibia’s crowning glory, Etosha. Namibia has something for everyone. It thus stands to reckon that it would be best to spend your time on your trip through Namibia inside its parks. NWR’s 20 different resorts and campsites are situated inside Namibia’s national parks. Here is our selection of their top campsites across the country. Indulge in the beauty of Namibia’s parks, spend your evenings around floodlit waterholes, camping under the spectacular night sky of these 5-billion-star establishments.
Campsite Sesriem Namib-Naukluft National Park
Sossusvlei, Namibia’s second most popular attraction, is located in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Sesriem Canyon (1 km long) is at the entrance to the park. The 24 scenic camping sites of Sesriem are a few kilometers from the canyon under beautiful camel thorn trees. The sites have a braai area, tap and communal washrooms. You can stock up on necessities at the shop and filling station just outside the park gate. Be sure to make the 65km trip to Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei, famous for some of Namibia’s most spectacular photo-ops.
Campsite Olifantsrus Etosha National Park
This campsite, in the western part of Etosha National Park, is the latest addition to NWR’s list of accommodation facilities. Situated between Okaukuejo and Dolomite Resort, Olifantsrus
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is the only establishment in the park that offers camping only. The 10 camping sites have power points, running water, braai facilities and communal washrooms. By far the best feature of Olifantsrus, however, is its state-of-the-art hide at the waterhole. The hide is a tower-like structure just outside the boundary fencing of the camp. It can be reached via a wooden boardwalk and allows visitors to watch game from an elevated position above the waterhole, which is spread out at its base in the shape of a half-moon. At night, red floodlights make for a stunning game-viewing experience.
Campsite Halali Etosha National Park
Camping at Halali is always an adventure. The spacious camping sites are set between large mopane trees which offer plenty of shade. The nearby waterhole is also floodlit at night and frequented by large herds of elephant. The swimming pool and poolside restaurant are a popular hangout during
Who needs a f ive star hotel, when you can sleep under a f ive billion star sky.
OKAUKUEJO ETOSHA
OLIFANTSRUS ETOSHA
There is no wif i in the forest, but I promise you will f ind a better connection.
WATERBERG NP
hot summer afternoons when game movement is limited. NWR also offers night drives from Halali. Visit well-known waterholes such as Chudop and Salvadora at the rim of the magical white pan for a whole new perspective at night. Like the other campsites in Etosha, Halali offers communal washroom facilities, as well as braai areas and electricity at each site. Look out for pearl-spotted owlets perched in the mopane trees overhead before turning in for the night.
O
kaukuejo Campsite Etosha National Park
With its famous illuminated waterhole, located 17 km from the southern entrance of the park lies Okaukuejo, Etosha's main resort. The camping sites each have their own braai area, and communal washroom facilities and kitchen areas are close-by. The best part of camping at Okaukuejo is the short distance from the camping area to the waterhole. Spend your night watching rhinos and lions quenching their thirst under the floodlights. Joining a guided night drive in the park is also highly recommendable. Special nocturnal sightings include hyena, aardwolf and leopard. Bookings for the night drives should be made well in advance because they are very popular.
Resort Waterberg Waterberg National Park
Situated about 68km east of Otjiwarongo, the Waterberg Plateau is a prominent feature, rising high above the plains of the Kalahari of eastern Namibia. The park is one of Namibia’s greatest conservation success stories and an ideal destination for nature lovers and adventurers alike. Join a guided game drive on the plateau and explore the thick vegetation teeming with special species of game, including black and white rhino, sable and roan antelope, tsessebe and buffalo. Hiking on the plateau has been banned until further notice due to poaching concerns, but there are various hiking trails and nature walks that start at the resort. Camping sites with washroom facilities, electricity and braai areas are spread out under camel thorn trees at the foot of a grassy (in summer) hill. Be aware that baboons often make a nuisance of themselves and please refrain from feeding them. Make sure that all your provisions and valuables are secured at all times, lest they make a run for it with your evening meal or iPhone.
POPA FALLS
Campsite Naukluft Namib-Naukluft National Park
21 camping sites are spread out along a clear stream at the base of a mountain. This section of the Namib-Naukluft National Park, where the Naukluft Mountains form the easternmost border of the park, is characterised by massive rock formations and is a geologist’s dream. Hiking trails that lead out from the camping sites follow streams meandering through the mountains and lead to clear, cold pools. During wet months they often pass beautiful small waterfalls. Flora and fauna are plentiful and nature lovers are sure to enjoy the extraordinary biodiversity that is a hallmark of of the Naukluft. The campsite's washroom facilities have recently been beautifully renovated and each camping site has clean running water and braai facilities. Activities to be enjoyed include four different hiking trails, bird watching or going on a 4x4 drive on demarcated routes.
Campsite Hobas /Ai-/Ais - Richtersveld Transfrontier Park The Fish River Canyon is the second largest canyon in the world: 160 km long and more than 500 meters deep. It is also one of the most popular hiking destinations in southern Africa. Adventure lovers can start their journey from Hobas Campsite at the park entrance. Washrooms and braai facilities are available and visitors can take a refreshing dip in the sparkling blue pool before descending into the canyon for their expedition.
Falls Resort Popa Popa Game Park
On the banks of the Okavango River near Divundu, a magical destination awaits. The alluring Popa Falls, which actually are a series of rapids rather than a waterfall, are a must-see when heading to the Zambezi Region in the northeast of the country. Mahango Game Park, situated just down the road, is a great place for nature lovers and bird watchers to explore. Other exciting adventures await on the river itself in the form of boat cruises and fishing expeditions. The resort has 10 camping sites with braai facilities and washrooms. Be sure to spend your sundowner time on the bar deck overlooking the falls and the river, or on a guided river cruise. TNN
HALALI ETOSHA
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1. Onkoshi Resort 2. Sossus Dune Lodge 3. Dolomite Resort 4. Popa Falls Resort
Henties Bay Swakopmund Walvis Bay
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CLASSIC
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5. Okaukuejo Resort 6. Halali Resort 7. Namutoni Resort 8. /Ai-/Ais Hotspring Spa 9. Waterberg Resort
ADVENTURE 10. Hardap Resort 11. Khorixas Restcamp 12. Gross Barmen Resort 13. Terrace Bay Resort 14. Torra Bay Resort 15. Sesriem Campsite 16. Shark Island 17. Naukluft Campsite 18. Hobas Campsite 19. Duwisib Castle
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Apply for your Nam Leisure Card today and receive amazing discounts at all NWR facilities!
reservations@nwr.com.na
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SHUTTER DREAMING
Chris Botha
A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY WITH NAMIBIA'S TOURISM PROFESSIONALS
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE
Photographers always dream of places, their minds and eyes are always wandering. - Paul van Schalkwyk
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Meet the
PHOTOGRAPHERS Acclaimed Namibian photographer, the late Paul van Schalkwyk, had a wonderful way of narrowing down the essence of what it means to be a photographer. In a country like Namibia, those with an eye that loves peering through the viewfinder, and fingers itching to push the shutter button, live with that wandering spirit. Those who are constantly traveling have the added advantage of being more often exposed to bigger and greater moments just yearning to be caught on camera. In this issue’s Photography Feature we highlight four tourism professionals who are frequently immersed in the many marvels of Namibia and let their Canons and Nikons capture the stunning moments before their wandering eyes.
PETER PACK
TANJA SENTEFOL
Peter is from Pack Safaris, a tour operator. His interest in photography was sparked when he was about 10 years old. At 17 he bought his first SLR. For years he used the legendary Olympus OM1 and OM2 to photograph Namibia’s wonders. Unfortunately, his set got stolen around 1995 and he changed brands, choosing a Nikon F90x. He is a big fan of the digital age. His first digital camera was a Nikon D100, which he bought in 2003. Peter admits that these days he takes a lot of photos with his iPhone 6, but he prefers to use his Nikon D4, D4S and Nikon A whenever he can. His favourite lenses are Nikon with the biggest f-stop, from 12 to 400 mm. He recommends a Zeiss F2 100 for macro photography. The cyclist in the photo is Peter’s son Timo, at sunrise during August last year at his favourite place, Onjala Lodge. Peter says that his family members have always been his best models and they are always available. The misty landscape photo was taken at sunrise in January after some rainfall at Nambwa on the Kwando River. Mist from the river and clouds in the sky produced these beautiful colours.
Tanja works for SWA Safaris. She was four years old when her grandparents, Uwe and Hilka Sentefol, took her on her first camping trip up north. She was captivated by her beautiful home country from an early age and received her first film camera when she was eight years old. Henceforth the camera accompanied her on all her adventures in the bush. As a young adult she believed that she had to see the world and after each trip she could not wait to have her photos developed. She recalls the excitement of waiting for the photos and the surprise of what they looked like. The photography bug truly took hold of her when she bought her first digital camera. It was a Canon EOS 450D. Today she still grabs every chance she gets to pack her bags and explore Namibia with her dogs. She still prefers to use her Canon 450D with the 70- 200 mm 2.8 IS lens. The landscape photo was taken at Namib Desert Lodge on a walk between the Dune Star cabins near the Lodge. The photo of the misty road was also taken in the Namib Desert, on the way to Vlakte Plaas.
HELMUT SCHAEFER
CHRIS BOTHA
Helmut, the owner of Cheetah Tours & Safaris, discovered his passion for photography when he was a teenager and perfected this skill as a young tour guide, traversing Namibia from east to west and north to south. He has been using Nikon equipment for over 30 years. Currently he mainly uses a Nikon D750 with four AF-S Nikkor lenses (14-24 mm 2,8), (24-70 mm 2,8), (70-200 mm 2,8) and (200500 mm 5,6). The dune photo was taken near Sossusvlei and is actually a close-up of a fairly small surface. The dark background is not the sky, but the shade of a large dune. The springbok were photographed with a 500 mm lens from close proximity at noon in Etosha.
Chris is the co-owner of StayToday. He has always been very interested in photography but only began to take the hobby seriously when he went to Europe in 2008. He spent seven years traveling all over the continent and developed a passion for taking photos. Since then, he rarely leaves the house without his camera. He prefers to use a Canon 5D Mark II (2470 mm) lens. The photo featured in the opening spread of this issue’s Photography Feature was taken near Wolwedans in the NamibRand Nature reserve. It captures a moment where light and the ambience of the location came together to create a marvelous moment. The photo in the spread on the next page was captured during a horseback safari in the same area.
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TANJA SENTEFOL
CHRIS BOTHA
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE
HELMUT SCHAEFER
PETER PACK
How do you make it impossible for the world to ignore you? You give your absolute best. And then you give more. You push. You question. You set ridiculous goals. You never settle. If you’re lucky and if you do these things, you just may create something great. And then you just make it better.
w w w.nederburg.com
Enjoy Responsibly. Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.
GETTING LOST at Auas Safari Lodge To get lost is to learn the way
- African Proverb
From where we stood looking at the horizon, the Auas Mountains, which form the southern border to the country’s capital, were in full view, but there were no remnants of a city. No indication that the capital lay just beyond. No, we were def initely in the middle of the bush. I felt a bit lost, but in the best possible way. Lost in the wonders of nature, surrounded by camel thorn trees, game and the serenity of wilderness.
I
wasn’t quite sure where we were. We’d only driven about half an hour to get here. Which meant that Windhoek was just a stone’s throw away. Are we this close to a bustling city?
Auas Safari Lodge is less than an hour south of Windhoek. The 10 000 hectare reserve is home to a wide variety of game and bird species and a wonderful bush experience on the city’s doorstep. The 16 ensuite rooms, reminiscent of classic farm-style hospitality, offer visitors a spacious and comfortable stay with the promise of stunning views of the setting sun. On a recent trip to meet the new management, who took over a few months ago, we realised just what a wonderful weekend destination the charismatic Auas Lodge can be. A Groundscraper Thrush hopped around on the lawn as we sat on the veranda outside the lodge’s main entertainment area. Starlings played along the edge of the waterhole a few metres away. Our lunch, a delectably tender steak, was paired with an Auas special, Sandy Shandy, recommended by lodge manager Richard Ford, as we relaxed and enjoyed the meal in the quiet peace of the bush. Sated, an hour of absolute heavenly relaxation followed at the hands of Maria van der Westhuizen and Virginia Velskoen. The two on-staff therapists worked
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their magic as we let the guilty pleasure of a full body massage seep through our veins, or in this case, muscles. Our spa treatment was followed by a guided game drive in the bush. As we meandered through the tracks snaking between camel thorn trees, over hilly crests and through riverbeds, our guide, Frederick Muronga, originally from the Kavango Region, pointed out giraffe, oryx, springbok and waterbuck. The late afternoon was so utterly enchanting, it was easy to forget that we were less than an hour’s drive from Windhoek. Auas Safari Lodge is home to multiple species of game, including giraffe, eland, zebra, impala, kudu, waterbuck, springbuck and oryx. It is also an excellent place for avid bird-lovers to test their identification skills as LBJ’s (Little Brown Jobs) flit around the game-viewer vehicle negotiating the thick bush. At some point during the game drive a herd of about 40 eland crossed our path and we headed after them for a better look and the chance at some up-close photographs. The thick bush and overgrown jeep tracks caused us to lose our way for a short while, but we didn’t mind all that much. There are worse places to get lost than in a beautiful savannah bushland. Back on the road we continued on our drive while Richard told us of upcoming summer camps for kids to be held at a campsite on the reserve. How thrilling it must be for a youngster to explore such a wonderful place for a week!
ABOVE Rièth and Frederick
say 'cheers' to the stunning view.
RIGHT The lodge offers spa
facilities, including full body and Indian head massages, facials, manicures and more, at the well-trained hands of Maria van der Westhuizen and Virginia Velskoen. BELOW Lodge guide,
Frederick Muronga, ready to set off on an action packed game drive.
From the sundowner spot on a rocky outcrop in the centre of the reserve we had a 360 degree view over the valley below and the mountains stretching across the horizon. On the trip back we spotted a herd of about 20 giraffe drinking at a waterhole. A Tawny Eagle perched on a nearby branch. We felt as if we were on a full-blown safari, lost in the awesomeness of nature. The friendly staff, the alluring wilderness and breathtaking sunsets at Auas Safari Lodge are only three minor reasons to head out of the bustling, tiring city for the weekend, or stop over on your way to or from your next Namibian destination. Laze by the clear blue pool, sip coffee on your personal veranda as the sun rises or relax completely in the Aroma Boma. Whatever your preference, Auas Safari Lodge is a beautiful place to get lost in. TNN www.auas-safarilodge.com.
DID YOU KNOW?
At Auas the kitchen serves organic meat and meat products from their own butchery. You can also buy homemade farm products, including rusks and preserves.
GAME SPECIES AT AUAS Oryx ❏ Kudu ❏ Waterbuck ❏ Springbok ❏
Eland ❏ Giraffe ❏ Zebra ❏ Impala ❏
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HOW TO FIND THE REAL
people, places and wildlife in community conservation areas Text and Photographs Helge Denker
Conservancy Side-Tracks is an innovative tourism route development project through which the Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations, NACSO, intends to make the myriad attractions of community conservation areas more accessible.
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harismatic wildlife great and small, wild and wonderful landscapes in stunning diversity and local people with vibrant cultures and lively traditions – Namibia’s communal areas offer some of the country’s greatest travelling experiences. The environmental heritage of these areas is held in trust by the people living on the land. Community conservation, through communal conservancies, provides a structure for local people to effectively manage and conserve wildlife and other natural resources, and to guide tourism development. Yet, few information resources exist to explain the complexity of communal area land use, or the challenges of conservation on farmland far from national parks – or to enable access to the many hidden attractions of these areas. Conservancy Side-Tracks is an innovative tourism route development project through which the Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations, NACSO, intends to make the myriad attractions of community conservation areas more accessible. At the same time, the initiative seeks to channel the current free-for-all travel by guiding tourism traffic onto preferred routes and ensuring the land holders have a say in what happens on their land.
visitor experiences, unlocking the secrets of the route’s landscape. The central feature of the brochures is a highly detailed map, yet the brochures also provide information on community conservation, fauna and flora, geology and on culture and history. An initial series of three different Side-Track routes has been developed, with each trail focusing on a unique aspect of the Erongo-Kunene Community Conservation Area. The Conservancy Side-Track brochures will be available at selected outlets in Windhoek and Swakopmund, and in the conservancies themselves. The initiative was funded by the Millennium Challenge Account Namibia and the Environmental Investment Fund of Namibia. The funds generated from the sale of the SideTrack brochures will be used to further support community conservation. TNN
The half-day or full day four-by-four routes are fully self-guided but can be complemented by local guiding services. Attractive and informative route brochures enable navigation and enhance
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THE PEOPLE OF NAMIBIA Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
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amibia is a country rich in culture. From the Zambezians in the northeast, the Oshiwambo in the central north and the Ovahimba in the northwest, to the Herero and Damara in the central regions and the Nama and the San in the south and east, Namibians across the country are proud of their heritage, language and communities. As part of this year's Namibia Tourism Expo's theme, which centres around communities, we delved into our archives and scanned our bookshelves for books that feature, pay homage to and explore various Namibian cultures and communities. With 13 different ethnic cultures and over 16 languages and dialects, the people of Namibia are an eclectic mix of communities. Learn more about Namibia's different cultural groups in Venture Media's annual publication, the Namibia Holiday & Travel, or take a look at TNN’s new short film, THE PEOPLE OF NAMIBIA, in our THIS IS NAMIBIA series on Vimeo at www.vimeo.com/travelnewsnamibia.
BORN IN ETOSHA - HOMAGE TO THE CULTURAL HERITAGE OF THE HAI||OM
Ute Dieckmann ABC Press 2009 No popular publications pay as much attention to people such as the Hai||om who lived in the Etosha area, and whose lives the proclamation of the park completely transformed. This book project is an indigenous historical resource on the Etosha National Park. It is designed so that it can accompany the reader on a journey through Etosha, from the Andersson Gate in the south to the Lindequist Gate in the east, reincorporating the culture and history of the area into the natural landscape. Through the lens of the book, the reader can perceive the area from a different perspective: the fiction of Etosha as a vast and pristine wildlife refuge, unsullied by humankind, is replaced by a realisation of its being suffused with the history of its former human inhabitants.
BOOKS
KATUTURA - EXCURSIONS INTO WINDHOEK’S TOWNSHIP
Rolf Brockmann & Gunther Christoph Dade Klaus Hess Publishers 2006 Namibia is a very attractive country for tourists. The first impression when arriving in the capital, Windhoek, for all those who know Africa a little, is certainly of surprise. It can’t be compared to Lagos, Cairo or Kinshasa at all. It’s a different Africa – a well-organised, tidy capital. The journey for tourists usually continues north to the Etosha Pan, to Swakopmund in the west or to the Fish River Canyon in the south, however, hardly any tourists visit Katutura at the beginning or end of his stay. The streams of tourists simply go past Windhoek’s largest suburb in which almost 10% of the country’s population live. The reader will be guided through this former township. This book will represent a collection of text and photos to demonstrate life in Katutura. It will be an excursion full of vivid impressions that will create a living atmosphere.
PATCHWORK LIFE : NAMIBIA’S BONDELSWARTS AND ROOINASIE
Compiled Sanet van Zijl Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
Ginger Mauney Namibia Development Corporation 2015 Patchwork Life is a celebration of the Nama culture, as told through the folklore and stories of Namibia’s Bondelswarts and Rooinasie people. With time and a changing world, many of these stories are no longer being shared, and without the retelling, they are destined to disappear. Given the generosity of local community members who opened their homes and their memories to share their stories, the book captures part of the storytelling tradition of the Nama people, reflecting the essence of life in the South that is infused with a strong connection to the land, to one another, and a deep sense of faith. This book helps to keep tradition alive so that future generations of Nama, Namibian and, indeed, international communities can celebrate these unique cultures.
THE PEOPLE OF NAMIBIA’S EASTERN ZAMBEZI REGION - A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE
Antje Otto & Mannfred Goldbeck Gondwana Collection Namibia 2014 Namibia’s eastern Zambezi Region, formerly known as East Caprivi, is home to the BaSubiya, BaYeyi, MaFwe, MaFwe-MaMbalangwe, HaMbukushu, MaTotela and Khwe people. Once dominated by foreign rulers such as the BaLozi and MaKololo, as well as several colonial powers, today they represent a unique cultural heritage shaped by their multi-faceted history. Various traditional crafts are still practiced and satisfy most basic material needs. Many people also possess a profound knowledge of the indigenous plants that are utilised during building and manufacturing processes or in traditional healing practices. This was the first issue from Gondwana Collection in the ‘Gondwana Heritage’ series, providing a compact introduction to this remote and lesser-known part of Namibia, its people, history and heritage. It is the first published account of the superb crafts that have been produced by the people of eastern Zambezi over generations.
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CLASSIFIED ADS
“There is still only one place to stay in Windhoek. Windhoek Country Club Resort - Your resort in the city” • Standard Rooms (wheel chair accessible) • Luxury Suites • Restaurant • Casino • Bars
• • • • •
Foreign Exchange Limited Wireless Internet In-house Gym Child Friendly 18 hole Championship Golf Course
• Situated in the beautiful coastal town Swakopmund • Built in and around the restored Old Station Building dating back to 1901 • This 4-star hotel offers 90 spacious rooms • Recreational facilities include a swimming pool, a gymnasium and casino, 2 Cinemas with 3D, Hair Salon & Spa • Two-minute’s walk from city centre • Day trips to the desert as well as dolphin cruises and scenic flights can be arranged.
Tel: +264 (0) 61 205 5911 | Fax: +264 (0) 61 252 797 Email: windhoek@legacyhotels.com | Website: www.LegacyHotels.com Location: B1 Western Bypass, Windhoek South, Namibia
Tel: +264 (0) 64 410 5200 | Fax: +264 (0) 64 410 5360 Email: swakopmund@legacyhotels.co.za | Website: www.LegacyHotels.co.za PO Box 616, Swakopmund
www.LegacyHotels.com
www.LegacyHotels.com
Tel +264 61 40 1494 • Fax +264 61 24 3079 reservations@rivercrissing.com.na • www.rivercrossing.com.na
Tel +264 64 46 4144 Fax +264 64 46 4155 info@eningulodge.com www.eningulodge.com
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A luxurious Private Nature Reserve and Wellness village, nestled on a hilltop and surrounded by the majestic beauty of the mountains. Sweeping views onto an awesome Namibian landscape. Only 25 minutes from Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia and 50 minutes from the international airport. Tranquillity and serenity on a Wildlife Sanctuary with wide open spaces.
Tel +264 61 22 4909 • Fax +264 61 22 4924 info@gocheganas.com • www.gocheganas.com
CLASSIFIED ADS ETOSHA HEIGHTS TOURISM +264 67 312 521 • annemarie@rhinotrek.net • www.etoshatourism.com
Bismark St. 1, Swakopmund, Namibia Tel: +264 64 400 331 • Fax: +264 64 405 850 reservations@schweizerhaus.net • www.schweizerhaus.net
Experience with us the Beauty of Namibia, Wilderness of Botswana and Secrets of Zimbabwe
What makes us unique?
Vast, contrasting and unpredictable
+264 (0)64 203496 +264 81 246 0034 info@bociansafaris.com www.namibia.com.pl Sam Nuyoma Avenue 11, Walvis Bay
• Personal service • One stop – shop (Accommodation, vehicle hire and activity bookings) • Specialize both in self –drive & guided Safaris • Cater for all: from family travel, filming crew, bird watchers etc. • Taste of African original • No hidden costs
Namibia is a country of primeval and unspoilt beauty: SWA Safaris can introduce you to its spectacular variety of landscapes, rich treasures of wildlife and unique flora. Enjoy the hospitality and friendliness of the Namibian people. Let SWA Safaris, one of the most experienced tour operators in Namibia, that has been in operation since 1954, make your stay an unforgettable one.
Tel +264 (0)61 22 1193/ 23 7567 swasaf@swasafaris.com.na www.swasafaris.com
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CLASSIFIED ADS
ar Rental Needs in Nam C r u o ibia For Y
Condor Namibia GSA
Tel: +264 (0) 61 229 272 | Fax: +264 (0) 61 223 292 | Cell: +264 (0) 81 129 9978 Email: info@carrental-namibia.com | http://www.savannacarhire.com.na | Snyman Circle (80 Trift Street)
4th Floor Office Tower, Maerua Mall, Windhoek Tel + 264 61 248528 Mobile + 264 (0) 81 124 6899 Email: condor-namibia@africaonline.com.na
www.tala.com.na Tel: +264 61 223 269 | Cell: +264 81 127 2222 E-mail: odyssey@iway.na
For fine art prints & image library contact: elmarievr2@icloud.com, Cell +264 (0)81 277 3334
www.staytoday.com.na
+264 61 420 509 info@staytoday.com.na
discovering namibia starts here accommodation | events | experiences
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Photo © Paul van Schalkwyk
Namibia. Wild at heart.
An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice. Mother Nature is waiting for you.
NAMIBIA – Head office C/O Haddy & Sam Nujoma Drive Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 290 6000 Fax: +264 61 25 4848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na
GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com
SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 422 3298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com
www.namibiatourism.com.na