THE INN CROWD

Ryokans and onsen showcase traditional Japanese hospitality and bathing culture at their very best

Originating in the 17th Century, during Edo period Japan, ryokans are inns that traditionally served travelers along the country’s highways. Many such establishments still serve such a functional purpose today with low prices and Spartan tatami-matted rooms. Others, however, are much more opulent and a stay in one is a major highlight of many Japan itineraries.

Despite an often-wild variation in prices across the spectrum, many ryokans have several things in common.

Food is usually taken very seriously, and most guests take their meals in their room. Meals are served kaiseki-style with multiple dishes featuring regional and seasonal specialties. The temperature the dishes are served at is key, so most ryokans are very stringent about punctuality for meals.

Most ryokan also feature common bathing areas. These tend to vary according to price range. While bathing areas or ofuro in more humble establishments are usually fairly simple affairs, many high-end ryokans have lavish facilities, often centered upon hot springs or onsen.

Ryokans can be found the length and breadth of the country, but are frequently concentrated around onsen, which, in volcanically active Japan, means practically everywhere.

Despite some common features, many of the best ryokans distinguish themselves with design or service quirks, opulence of bathing facilities and by the sheer quality of their food.

In Tokyo famous establishments include Hoshinoya Tokyo, which is a pillar of tranquility that rises among other glass and metal spires in the heart of the city. Kyoto is renowned for the quality of its ryokans with luxurious accommodations complemented by incredible dinners.

Outside of the cities, meanwhile, fabulous ryokans are dotted liberally around the Japanese countryside, often in unbelievably idyllic locations. One of our favorite locations is Kinosaki Onsen, which is conveniently located near Kyoto and Osaka in central Honshu.

Another prime spot is Yumoto, a small hot spring town in Nikko National Park. A visit here can be combined with a trip to Nikko, which is home to Toshugu: one of Japan’s most lavishly decorated Shinto shrines.

WHERE TO STAY: Kayotei Ryokan

Located outside of Kanazawa, Kayotei is a traditional Japanese ryokan set within the forested hills of Yamanaka Onsen in Kaga. The Kayotei boasts 10 Sukiya suites arranged in the traditional style of a tea ceremony pavilion