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Istanbul the Great John Maddocks searches for the legendary icons and indulgences of Istanbul. 1.
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I’m hit by an air of bustling excitement the moment I leave Ataturk airport. I’ve just arrived in Istanbul – reputed to be one of the most alluring and intriguing destinations in the world. It’s the place where East meets West. Capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Hub of the ancient Silk Road. Can this teeming metropolis possibly live up to its highoctane reputation? My taxi careers alongside the Sea of Marmara. The water is littered with merchant ships from all over the globe awaiting
1. The elegant Ayasofya embodies much of the history of Istanbul 2. The photogenic Blue Mosque dominates the landscape of Sultanahmet 3. Don’t miss a trip on the Bosphorus, one of the world’s busiest waterways
their chance to unload. But what I’m drawn to sprawls across solid land – the city itself. After checking into the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, my first task is to scour a city map to see which sights are within walking distance. I’m spoilt for choice. I start with the Ayasofya, a building that embodies much of the complex history of Istanbul. The Aya was commissioned by the Byzantine emperor Justinian I (otherwise known as Justinian the Great) in the 6th Century. It was converted into a mosque in the 15th Century and then a museum in 1935. The stunning beauty of this structure eclipses even
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its impressive history. Standing in the vast nave beneath its soaring dome and looking up at the rich mosaics is simply spine tingling. While Istanbul has many photogenic buildings, the standout has to be the nearby Blue Mosque. As I stroll towards it through Sultanahmet Park, I’m struck by the symmetry and majesty of the exterior. Inside, I’m captivated by the sheer beauty and grandeur of the central dome. My camera works to capture some of the 20,000 blue Iznik tiles that give the mosque its popular name. After absorbing the transcendent experience of the Blue Mosque, I walk to the nearby Hippodrome, built by the Byzantine emperors for the very earth-bound activity of chariot racing. Though a mere shadow of the original, the present-day Hippodrome is impressive for its remaining obelisks and the lovely Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain – a gazebo built to commemorate the second anniversary of German emperor Wilhelm II’s 1898 visit to Istanbul. A friend has told me about two beautiful mosques that are located close to the Hippodrome but of the mainstream tourist routes: the Sokullu Mehmet Pasa and Little Aywasofya. I’m assured I won’t regret the 10-minute walk. The tranquil interior of Sokullu Mehmet Pasa mosque features thousands of stunning Iznik tiles in blue and green
Where to Eat Asitane Traditional Ottoman cuisine including Mutanc (Rezaki lamb stew with apricots, raisins and almonds) and Crushing Chicken Kebab (grilled chicken on a bed of sautéed onions served with pickled red cabbage), Biryan Perch (whole sea bass stuffed with nuts and spices) and Stuffed Mackerel. Desserts: To Helati (rose syrup pudding with almonds, pistachios and seasonal fruit) and Peach Ka’e (cinnamonflavoured walnut pastry). Address: Kariye Camii Sokak No:6, 34240 Edirnekapı, www.asitanerestaurant.com Köşebaşı Southern Anatolian cuisine. Serves a variety of kebabs including Tarsusi with low-fat, hand-minced lamb, gourmet Turkish pizza covered with seasoned minced meat and vegetables, raw meatballs served with scallions, fine bulghur and onions. Desserts include Dondurmali Irmik – a semolina dessert with ice cream and pistachio, served as a hot and light dessert. This restaurant is a favourite of celebrities. Address: There are several branches around Istanbul. Check the website for locations. www.kosebasi.com/en Tugra Restaurant & Lounge - Çirağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul Serves dishes claimed to be sourced from ancient recipes. These include Lamb Kulbasti, saffron
A VIEW OF THE BLUE MOSQUE FROM THE FOUR SEASONS SULTANAHMET
ravioli and red mullet dolma. Menu includes Chicken Topkapi, a recipe dating from 1582 and Karniyarik Stuffed Eggplant – a nineteenthcentury Ottoman favourite. Address: Ciragan Caddesi 32,34349 Istanbul +90 212 326 4646 www.kempinski.com/en/ istanbul Hafiz Mustafa 1864 Some of the best baklava and Turkish delights in Istanbul. Baklava is a sweet pastry and it comes in pistachio, walnut, milk and chocolate varieties. Turkish delights feature mint, orange, pomegranate, rose petal, cinnamon, apple, strawberry and mastic in seemingly endless variations. Other puddings and cakes are also served. Coffee is good here too. Address: Hobyar Mahallesi, Hamidiye Caddesi No:84, Istanbul 34420 Patisserie de Pera The refined Art Nouveaustyled Patisserie de Pera is a great place for morning or afternoon tea. Tarts, cupcakes, legion macaroons and handmade chocolates are among the indulgent fare. Tea and coffee are served in fine china. Located in the Pera Palace Hotel, this French-influenced patisserie is definitely worth seeking out. Address: Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 52, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu www.jumeirah.com/en/hotelsresorts/istanbul/pera-palacehotel-jumeirah
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4. The Little Ayasofya mosque is embellished with exquisite design detail 5. Beyoglu’s vibrant pedestrian thoroughfare Istiklal Caddesi is lined with shops, restaurants and galleries 6. Traditional Turkish miniature art on display at the Ayasofya museum 7. Highly qualified artist Feride Ozgan working on traditional miniatures at her studio in the garden courtyard adjoining the Little Ayasofya mosque
floral patterns. The Little Ayasofya mosque is reputedly the city’s oldest Byzantine structure, and the interior is an absolute jewel. Originally built in 527 as a church for Theodora, wife of Justinian the Great, this serene mosque features an exquisite dome and stately, marble columns. The adjoining garden has tearooms and craft studios. In one studio, I find artist Feride Ozgan creating some intricate traditional miniature paintings and I can’t resist buying some. Next, I take a taxi to Beyoglu district, where the main street, Istiklal Caddesi, is lined with shops, restaurants and galleries. I share the buzz of this crowded pedestrian thoroughfare with hordes of walkers, all of us lured by the myriad opportunities for retail therapy.
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Where to shop: Grand Bazaar, Beyazit (for carpets and kilims) Dhoku, Kapalı Çarşı Takkeciler Sokak 58-60 34126 Galerie Metin (for carpets and kilims) 127 Arasta Bazaar, Sultanahmet Atelier 55 (for everything from clothing to art) Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak 55, Karaköy atelier-55.com Sevan Biçakçi (for exquisite one-of-a-kind jewellery) Molla Fenari Mah. Gazi Sinanpaşa Sk. No. 16 Cağaloğlu 34440 www.sevanbicakci.com
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The arcades centred around Istiklal Caddesi are not to be missed. Avrupa Pasaji (Europe Passage) is the place for jewellery and souvenir shops, while the Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage) is the haunt of fine restaurants.
water reservoir features over 300 columns, two of which are supported by carved Medusa heads. Mysteriously, one Medusa head is upside down while the other is on its side.
I set the next morning aside for visiting the Topkapi Palace. I enter through the Imperial Gate and hire an audio guide which takes me to the Palace Kitchens, where a display features some of the palace’s 10,700 pieces of Chinese porcelain.
After a pide (sometimes known as a Turkish pizza) and coffee at my hotel, I get down to some serious shopping at the famous Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). Boasting over 4,000 shops and 60 streets, the Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s largest covered markets. Over 250,000 people shop here daily for everything from carpets to gold jewellery and spices.
With its colourful history of seduction and indulgence, the Topkapi Palace Harem attracts the most visitors by far. The harem’s six floors and 300 rooms were occupied by the emperor’s family, and while only one floor is open to the public, there’s enough sumptuous and memorable décor here to provide fascinating insights into the 16th Century imperial lifestyle. Don’t miss visiting the Treasury to see the Topkapi Dagger with its three huge emeralds on the hilt and the 86-carat Kasikci Diamond, the world’s 5th largest.
Like Istanbul itself, the Grand Bazaar is an alluring blend of old and new, traditional and modern. While most carpets on sale are of a traditional persuasion, there are some eye-catching exceptions, such as those on display at Dhuko. My favourite offering in this shop comes in the shape of antique rugs that have been remodelled into dazzling carpet patchworks.
An interesting contrast with the opulence of the Topkapi Palace is to be found in the nearby Basilica Cistern, built in 532. Known as the ‘sunken palace’, this must-see cavernous underground
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8. The mysterious upside-down carved Medusa head at the base of one of the Basilica Cistern’s 300 columns. 9. You’re never far from tempting baklava and Turkish delights in Istanbul.
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Another good place for carpet shopping is the Arasta Bazaar nearby in Sultanahmet. The Galerie Metin is my pick for truly distinctive carpets and kilims. Hungry after three hours of shopping, I take a taxi to the Tugra Restaurant at the Çiragan Palace Hotel. Here, the excellent food is matched by stunning views over the Bosphorus – the fabled waterway separating Europe from Asia. The menu has some wonderful traditional options and I decide on the Quail Mutancana, a 16th Century Ottoman favourite. I begin my last day in Istanbul with a leisurely walk through the delightful Gulhane Park, once an outer garden of the Topkapi Palace. Next I take a private cruise on the Bosphorus. Highlights are visiting the 15th Century Rumeli Fortress and a fishing village on the Black Sea.
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After three days in this fascinating, dramatic city experiencing its cultural wonders, I conclude that three weeks would be scarcely enough to penetrate the complexity of such a magical place. So I do the only sensible thing – I vow to return.
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Where to stay: Four Seasons Sultanahmet www.fourseasons.com/Istanbul Çirağan Palace Kempinski www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah www.jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/istanbul/perapalace-hotel-jumeirah
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Ritz-Carlton Hotel www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Istanbul Swissotel The Bosphorus www.swissotel.com/hotels/istanbul Raffles Istanbul www.raffles.com/Istanbul
10. Pera Palace Hotel JumeirahKubbeli saloon 11. Four Seasons Sultanahmet 12. One of the majestic obelisks at Istanbul’s Hippodrome 13. THE INSPIRATIONAL INTERIOR OF THE BLUE MOSQUE