Travel Play Live Issue #12 by travelplaylivemagazine

A D V E N T U R E x

EMPOWER

INSPIRE

DREAM

CHANGE

Travel Play Live Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adventure & Lifestyle

Walk across the world! Lucy Barnard kicks off her epic journey

Adventure through adversity

Be inspired by Tess Ley's heartfelt story

ISSUE #12 2018

Winners announced Over 400 women wanted their happy place on our cover

Australian Ninja

We chat to Olivia Vivian

AU $14.95 ISSUE 12

Runner Up Cover Image by Deanne Dwight

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It's the rough side of the mountain that's the easiest to climb; the smooth side doesn't have anything for you to hang on to A R E T H A

F R A N K L I N

(RIP March 25, 1942 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August 16, 2018)

hello

TEAM F R O M

T H E

N E W

TRIBE LEADER (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Natalie Drake-Brockman “Go placidly, amidst the noise and haste and remember what peace there may be in silence”. (Desiderata: Max Ehrmann, 1927)

CHIEF EDITOR

Melanie Chatfield

Once upon my toilet wall was this powerful poem. I love, and I'm guided by, the timeless wisdom in these words. I also have Shannah Kennedy, author of Simplify Structure Succeed, to thank for allowing me to feel as close to happy as I possibly can be each day (you’ll hear more from Shannah in this issue). Over time I realised that I wasn’t participating enough in the activities that selfishly made me happy. I like to think of ‘selfish activities’ as the ones you enjoy that aren’t related to anyone else.

My interest in other people and places started from an obsession with collecting pen pals. I spent countless hours and hundreds of my mum’s dollars on stamps and envelope sized trinkets. I swapped notes of my life as an Aussie farm kid with people from places as diverse as Ghana, Finland, and Scotland. I never dared to dream that one day I’d get more than just a glimpse into where some of them lived!

Turns out that I only had myself to blame and so I’ve taken charge and put myself first a little more these days and make time for wholesome activities that selfishly transcends me to my happy place.

But after a shock diagnosis in my early 20s – which revealed I had a degenerative eye condition and was losing my sight – I promised myself that I would see the world while I still had the chance.

Mostly there is return on this investment for everyone in my sphere, including my darling husband and two gorgeous boys who know how valuable this time and space is for me. I have my hubby, friends and family to thank for the surprise outdoor bath, my bike Daisy, Fin my SUP and Nurtle the scooter!

Since then, I have wandered all over our beautiful Australia and explored over 60 countries. I’ve camped in Africa, ridden a donkey in Egypt, scuba-dived in the Galapagos, slept in the Moroccan desert, paraglided in Argentina, sky dived in Canada, skied in Japan, cycled in Latvia, trekked in Nepal, ice-skated in New York, drunk vodka in Russia, danced the CanCan in London, and had my eyeballs licked by a Shaman in Peru.

I’m a leisure business specialist by trade and a bit of a micro adventurer. I am always trying to be spontaneous and creative with leisure activities, in fact with everything I do. Always thinking of fun, affordable (mostly free) ways to reconnect with nature and the unique grassroots culture in my own, and other, regions because it absolutely, positively influences my wellbeing. Transportation, away from the daily grind, involving a bit of fun and a rush of endorphins within the elements – count me in! As a subscriber, I am an absolute TPL advocate. I love everything this community, built by Kez and Amy, stands for. I feel deeply privileged to have this opportunity to lead the tribe going forward. Bring It!

To fund my insatiable bucket list, I work and volunteer in jobs focused on improving the health and well-being of others. I am passionate about helping to build communities that are diverse, inclusive, safe, active and connected. What I love about Travel Play Live is the commitment to nurturing, inspiring and encouraging everyone to get out there and have a go; reminding all of us to be kind to ourselves, to look after each other, and to take care of our environment. I am incredibly excited to join the tribe and can’t wait to hear and share stories from each, and every one of you. Happy travels. Travel Play Live

ISSUE#12

A dven ture Newes t Partners In Change. It can be exhilarating, exhausting and downright ballsy. It can also be gentle, subtle and incredibly sneaky.

Letter from the Editor

CONNECT WITH US

Change. Usually I love it. I thrive on diving head first into opportunities to learn and try different things. It makes me feel good and provides a sense that I am moving forward. Sometimes I let go and drift, adapting and evolving with the flow of what comes my way. Occasionally, I try to resist it.

will remain actively connected, continuing to share their wisdom and guidance with all of us. Alongside them are a formidable tribe of inspiring humans who are longterm friends, readers, contributors and supporters. You, plus the new friends we hope to make, are the key to the future of this community.

www.travelplaylive.com.au @travelplaylivemagazine

On a recent trip to Wales I reflected on its enduring presence. I was visiting some friends who have uprooted their little Australian family to explore the wild lands across the sea. It was a reunion of sorts. We’ve been friends for decades but hadn’t spoken much of late. Distracted and busy, we were left pondering where the time had gone.

Both Nat and myself are committed to what Travel Play Live stands for. We embrace this new challenge with passion, integrity, good humour and an open mind.

hello@travelplaylive.com.au

It’s quite fitting really that this transition occurs in Spring, the natural time for growth and rejuvenation. This issue is packed full of stories of renewal, reflection, progress, motivation and exploration.

TPL PHOTOGRAPHY

We could see the changes in our wizened faces, our unique smiles shaped by diverse experiences and shifting priorities. Yet, as we settled in for a familiar Sunday roast, the differences faded away. The essence of who we were and what we stood for as friends hadn’t changed. We laughed as if we had never been apart. As many of you know, Travel Play Live is evolving. Founders Amy and Kez have stepped to the side, enabling Nat and I the chance to nurture and build upon the remarkable legacy they have created. We are relieved that both inspiring women

Nestled among them you will find a selection of breathtaking images. We were inundated with entries to our photo comp and it was hard to pick a winner. Huge round of applause to Kathy Chislett who claimed top spot and features on the cover. Congratulations also to our runnerup Deanne Dwight and all those who made the shortlist. We hope you enjoy this special issue and encourage you to get in touch, we love making new friends.

Mel 04

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TRIBE LEADER (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Natalie Drake-Brockman CHIEF EDITOR

Melanie Chatfield NEW COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS AND ADVERTISING

CREATIVE

Joey Dable Two Minds Creative Ben Cirulis www.fotografija.com.au SUSBSCRIPTIONS

subscriptions@travelplaylive.com.au Copyritght TPL Publishing PTY LTD 2015. No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by TPL Publishing and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of TPL Publishing, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this magazine by individuals and TPL Publishing are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. We have done our best to credit all photographers. In some instances photos have been provided to us by those who appear editorially and we have their permission to use the images. We apologise if anything appears incorrectly. It will be a genuine mistake, let us know and we will ensure to mention it in the next issue.

Photo Credit: Damien Hatton

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c ontents WOMEN OF THE LARAPINTA Elisha Donkin

SNOW GOING BACK Alice King & Ben Cirulus

PLASTIC IS NOT FANTASTIC Laura Summer Stampa & Jessica Brosnan

GIRLS ON FILM Jemima Robinson

INCONVENIENT CHANGE Sputnik

SHIFTING PERSPECTIVES IN THE SHIFTING SANDS OF JORDAN Caroline Pemberton

CONSIDER CONSCIOUS CLOTHING Rhianna Knight

NORTHFACE ATHLETE ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON TPL Interview CREATE A LIFE WITH PURPOSE & PASSION Henrietta Lee

ALREADY A RUNNER Ta Lisa Hiron

MACPAC AMBASSADOR DULKARA MARTIG TPL Interview

AN ODE TO MY OUTSIDE SELF Brooke Nolan

WHAT SCARES YOU MOST Kemi Nekvapil

NOCTURNAL SAFETY FOR THE URBAN ADVENTURER Denise Straty

THERE'S ALWAYS CRITICS AT OUR MOST VULNERABLE Lucy Barnard

ADVENTURE THROUGH ADVERSITY Tess Ley

AUSTRALIAN NINJA OLIVIA VIVIAN TPL Interview

FIND THE COURAGE TO SAY YES Senka Radonich

BLAZING THE TRAIL SOLO Michelle Ryan

GREENLAND GRAND ADVENTURE Bridget Kruger EMBRACING BUDDHISM IN BHUTAN Michelle Lawford

POSITIVE CHOICES BY MOTHER NATURE TPL Interview

MOUNTAIN SAFETY IN AUSTRIA'S GNARLY TERRAIN Jennifer Ennion

BATHE IN NATURE Lyndall Mitchell CONSCIOUS LEARNING: A KEY TO WELLBEING Shannah Kennedy NEVER TOO OLD TO BE A FROTHING SURF GROM Surf Getaways & Andi Wallace MAKING CHANGE: EMBRACING THE WILD Amanda Fry "OUR DELICIOUS ADVENTURE" RECIPES Jane Grover

READ MORE Head over to our website for bonus content and previous articles www.travelplaylive.com.au

STAY CONNECTED We love to hear from you, so be sure to tell us all about your travels and adventures. Contact us at hello@travelplaylive.com.au Share your photos with us on Instagram by using #travelplaylive for your chance to feature.

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Finalist: Women Of Wander Photo Credit: Abigail Varney #happyplacetpl

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If we don't change, we don't grow. If we don't grow, we aren't really living. A N AT O L E

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F R A N C E

Women of the

A T N I P A R A L

WORDS BY: ELISHA DONKIN

‘You’re doing it alone?!’, is the usual response. As a female, I am used to getting a shocked, or maybe a concerned look, when I tell people I’m going out into the wilderness on my own. This time though, I was far from the only one. The Larapinta Trail is a 223 km long-distance hike, heading west from Telegraph Station in Alice Springs along the West MacDonnell Ranges and finishing at the peak of Mt Sonder. It’s a remote, rugged and tough trail, notoriously known for chewing through even the best hiking boots and wearing people down by making you climb every rock and ridgeline in sight.

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o most people, it was not a place for a woman, especially not a solo one. The rough environment of the outback isn’t very kind, you obviously have to carry a heavy pack, and of course, there are no showers. Oh, and there’s no phone reception. But that’s kind of the attraction. I left at 9 am on a Wednesday morning from Telegraph Station and had a 13.5 km day ahead of me to my first campsite. It was going to be a scorching winter’s day in Alice Springs with a top of 28°C and a total climb of 280 m up to Euro Ridge. After only one hour into the day, I started to think that my 18 kg pack was actually pretty heavy. I had never carried a full pack over such a long distance before. The trail was heavily exposed, and I was under the heat of the sun as it started to ascend the rocky ridgeline. I scrambled to find a little bit of shade where I could stop and make up some rehydrating solution to replace the electrolytes pouring out of my body.

rest of the trip. But at the same time, I was getting physically stronger every day. Six days in I even thought I’d left half my pack contents behind that morning because it felt so much lighter. It was just my body adapting, an effect that contributes to the addictive nature of these kinds of adventures. It’s the ultimate sense of freedom, independence, and strength. As a woman, I value these feelings the most. There are now more women completing the Larapinta Trail solo than men – I know, I was surprised too. In the previous few years, the number of female hikers on the trail has increased dramatically. I met females from as young as 13 years of age and well into their 60s, completing it independently either in small groups or alone.

There are now more women completing the Larapinta solo than men - I know, I was surprised too.

I was expecting to meet few other female solo hikers, if any. I usually like doing something that not many others do; it gives you an added sense of achievement. But I loved the fact that I wasn’t the only solo female on the trail. It was refreshing. I was not the only crazy one.

I clipped a rock with my toe – which would not have usually thrown me off balance – but with the force of 18 kg on my back working against me I was propelled forward. As I put my hand out, to stop myself from falling on my face, my knee grazed a rock. I had blood trickling down my right leg and I thought to myself, ‘what am I doing out here?’.

A male guide I met asked me why I thought there were more women on the trail, contrary to what most people expect. ‘Why?’, is a big question. Everyone has their own reason for doing the Larapinta. My reason was because I was looking for my next challenge. I’d done multi-day hikes before but nothing of this length and toughness, and never with a full pack. But everyone was different.

Yet it was just these types of challenges that helped me push on. I knew other hikers would probably see my grazed knee and think that if I couldn’t even make it past the first day what hope did I have? I’m not one to give up though, I like challenges. I didn’t give myself any alternative – I was going all the way to Mt Sonder no matter what.

It means though, that more women are saying, ‘I can do that’. The male guide followed his question up with, “But why not do another hike, a shorter one, or one not as rough?” Where is the fun in that though? The remoteness, the vastness of the landscape, the physical and mental challenge, that’s what we want.

I had plenty more bumps along the way. I battled gale force winds camping on top of a lookout called Brinkley’s Bluff. My right foot started aching and I burst my extra water bladder on day six. My left boot started splitting on day eight – the halfway mark – and I relied on the generosity of others to provide all sorts of different tapes to keep it together for the

Whenever I passed a fellow female hiker on the track we’d always stop, chat, and share stories from the trail. There was a real sense of belonging, a shared experience; we understood each other.

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Standing on top of Mt Sonder, at the end of 15 days on the trail, I felt as strong as ever.

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BIG ADVENTURES S M A LL F O OT P R I N T

Explore places where you can find yourself – and no one else – in a minimal impact style. #thoughtfultravel

worldexpeditions.com • 1300 720 000 @worldexpeditions IMAGE: Cho La Pass, Himalayas, Nepal | Marcelle Barnett

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ATAS No: A10684

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PRINCIPLES LEAVE

TRACE

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces 3. Dispose of Waste Properly 4. Leave What You Find 5. Minimise Campfire Impacts 6. Respect Wildlife 7. Be Considerate of Your Hosts and Other Visitors www.lnt.org.au

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PLASTIC Fantastic I S

N O T

It floats through life with a momentary purpose of convenience, preservation or decoration – and then it is forgotten. Gone, disposed of, lost or let free. It’s single-use design carries an unknown life expectancy. Alone, but not lonely, ready to go where the wind takes it next.

Sometimes it pauses to rest in the bushes, or drifts aimlessly out to sea, only to return and lap against a sandy beach. Most of the time, the ignorant and desensitised walk past and don’t even register it exists.Still, there are a growing few that feel a heavy tug on their heart strings when they see it; they find it impossible to go by without picking it up so that the hungry turtles and birds don’t mistake it for nutritious food. They know full well that, even post-digestion, it lives on. Polluting waterways, becoming smaller but not ready to decompose in our lifetime; the devastating result of a product built to last. We’ve all seen it somewhere. The horrors of plastic over-use amplified by a culture that makes it inconvenient and awkward to refuse, reuse or recycle. Instead, plastic is strewn across our landscapes, never decomposing, drifting, floating, and strangling the natural world.

everything we use comes wrapped in plastic and it can feel unavoidable. Most of us have the right intentions and want to change, but our current society makes it difficult to do so.

We want our children to be able to travel, explore and enjoy the natural wonders of the world, free of the plastic tainting its natural beauty. We are the generation of change. The generation that can empower and have a positive impact on our environment. Come join us.

As consumers, it’s difficult not to contribute to this environmental disaster. Disposable towels, disposable wipes, single-use food pouches, plastic wrappers, even plastic water bottles. You name it, man has created it. Whether buying organic produce (or even bananas) almost

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Deep down however, we can feel it – a movement is changing our culture. People are opening their eyes to the reality of the situation and creating alternate ways of inhabiting planet earth. Momentum is gathering. Whether you are forging the way, knee-deep in the trenches of waste-free living, or still on the side-lines (curious but not yet convinced), the following two tales offer hope and opportunity. Triumph amidst the tragedy. Jess takes her family’s zero waste experiment out of the house and across Australia, creating car-camping conversions that will curb your impact.

While Laura, having sailed, cycled and paddled around the world, shares tips on how to reduce your impact when travelling in countries where waste is more in your face. You will see how a little pre-planning can go a long way to preventing plastic pollution and contribute to cultural change.

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PLASTIC Fantastic I S

N O T

“We had been cycling down the main arterial highway that connects North and South Vietnam for almost two weeks. The dust, exhausting car fumes, and muggy humidity were taking their toll. My inner mermaid was dying for a swim, so when I saw a turn off with a symbol that looked something like a beach, I took it. Sure, it would add a 15 kilometre loop to our journey, but right now, it seemed like a great idea. Visions of the aquamarine beaches I had seen littered in the travel guide tantalised my mind. As we made our way down the dusty side road we were met by three curiously amused children who held their hands out for a high five. I took it as a good sign.

My gasp was quickly followed by another as I attempted to wade through the sea of plastic. For every three metres, there were at least four plastic bags. And it just kept going. On and on, the sea of plastic. Out beyond my limit of sight, plastic, plastic, plastic. I looked back ashore at the unphased fishermen, surely this must clog up their nets and make them feel strange about the environment in which they base their livelihood? My limited Vietnamese and their limited English prevented further investigation. The small village of 30-40 huts lay behind me, a sea of at least three thousand plastic bags lay ahead of me. I just could not comprehend how this could happen.

We had been cycling down the main arterial highway that connects North and South Vietnam for almost two weeks. The dust, exhausting car fumes, and muggy humidity were taking their toll.

The dirt became sandier and my heart beat lightened as the sea breeze cooled my face. We pushed our bikes onwards, past the strange looks and ramshackle houses towards the horizon. As we made it to the sand, I dismounted my bike and began running towards the delightful, refreshingly cool ocean. Derobeing and de-shoeing as I raced. But then I stopped. And gasped.

Sure it was overcast, so the dazzling azure waters were a strange shade of grey. And yes, the gritty sand did not quite live up to the white, squeaky beach I had dared to imagine. To add to the picture, the local fishing wharf was providing a unique marine-inspired aroma of its own. Fortunately, when I am dying for a swim, the tiniest murky puddle becomes an alluring oasis. Well, most of the time.

As I ran towards this particular paradise, I spotted strange things floating in the water. At first I thought wow: Vietnamese jellyfish come in pink, blue and yellow! Then, as I got closer, I realised, the same realisation that turtles often make too late, it’s not a jellyfish: it’s a plastic bag.

MEET

As I look back through my memories of adventuring throughout the world, it has been my experiences in the lesser developed countries where the reality of rubbish has really stood out. One image springs to mind, of young kids playing in the beautiful waters of the remote atoll Tabeuran in Kiribati. I join in with them, only to discover they are throwing a disposable nappy at each other...Yuk! My mind flashes to a paddling trip through the remote gorges of the upper Amazon in Peru. We stand around the coals of our fire, poking the last embers of our plastic waste and trying not to inhale. We know if we don’t burn it ourselves, the next village we leave it in will. My mental memory flicks on to when I was watching the sunset in Majuro, Marshall Islands. Out of the corner of my eye I watch helplessly as the high tide laps up and over the breakwall of the dump, dragging a fresh pile of plastic out with each wave. A lack of rainfall in some areas has meant soft drinks and packaged foods are now cheaper and more accessible than drinking water and fresh vegetables, so the waste production had boomed.”

Laura Stampa

Laura is a barefoot ocean-lover and explorer who loves to write about her adventures. When she isn’t travelling or picking up rubbish, she lives in Cabarita Beach, Australia. She teaches outdoor and environmental education, hosts Greening our indust-tree and co-founded Journey Outdoors in Nature, to create adventurous avenues for people to rediscover their natural wellness. laurasummerstampa@gmail.com www.journeyoutdoorsinnature.com.au

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TURTLE Friendly T R A V E L

Tips for plastic proof packing Here are some of Laura's top things to travel with to reduce your plastic footprint

A durable, reusable water bottle The benefit of a some of the more durable designs are, not only will they last your entire journey but often you can fill them up with boiling water. Great if you are travelling in an area where tap water is not drinkable as you can boil it for a few minutes first, thus reducing your need to buy plastic bottled water.

a goon sack (wine cask bag), but they cannot hold hot water and are more prone to air bubbles or holes.

A water filter You can get a range of travel filters but I really like the mini sized ones as then it never feels like too much to throw it in ‘just in case’. Many come with handy attachable bags/ bottles making it easier to fill from streams and waterholes. Great for all outdoor adventures – planned or impromptu. Can also been used to filter tap water in villages.

Grape seed extract The only natural water treatment I have found yet, other than traditional charcoal particles. Add ten drops to 1 litre. It has a slightly bitter flavour that I overlook by justifying that it won’t be killing the good bacteria in my stomach (unlike many other chemical drops that do). As I learn more about the links between gut flora and mental health, I think grape-seed extract is definitely worth the investment of about $30 a bottle. It comes in a handy travel size and is available at some pharmacies and most natural health food stores. Good for taking care of the micro-bacteria that some filters won’t get out.

A water bladder I have a 10 Litre water bladder, which I find really great to support a travelling duo. I fill it up prior to those long bus rides, or when I am camping, hiking or paddling away from a fixed water source. Some brands also allow you to fill the bag with hot water - great to snuggle with in the snow, and they also make a comfortable pillow. You can often get a fitting that attaches your water bladder to a filter, so they can be used in combination. They roll up pretty small when empty, and also comes in 4L, 2L and 1L varieties. A cheaper version of this would be

A reusable bag I really like to bring a roll-top travel backpack. They pack down super small and also double as a comfortable daypack. It allows me to go shopping and not need a plastic bag to carry my goods. Having an alternative bag makes it easier to refuse plastic wherever I am. Especially in countries where the plastic phenomenon is relatively new, there is often a tendency to put one thing in two plastic bags. I am not sure why, but “No plastic” appears to be universal in all languages from my experience – or atleast a well defined head shake and point. So do

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what you can, even if you come across as a weird foreigner. Little things like getting the weight sticker put directly onto you fruit and vegetables, rather than having them individually placed in a plastic bag, will definitely save a turtle or two! A reusable mug Not only is this great for reducing the amount of polystyrene ending up in the water system, it also gives you an avenue to staying hydrated on the go. Drinking herbal tea is a great way to access safe drinking water – just ensure it has boiled for a few minutes. Tea drinking rituals are ingrained in many cultures because of this, so embrace the opportunity on offer when you can. Alternatively, if you are travelling in the tropics, coconut water is the safest form of clean hydration going around – and it should even come in its own compostable packaging (the coconut husk) if its authentic! Refillable containers or mesh bags I throw in a few mesh bags and tupperware containers, which often hold clothing until the markets take priority. These are great for filling with nuts, rice, beans, fruit and vegetables or other small loose items that would normally come in a plastic bag. You can often purchase these products loose from small markets (which are a cultural experience in themselves) or from bulk food stores.

PLASTIC Fantastic I S

N O T

“Seven years ago, we were walking along the stunning stretch of Cinque Terra’s rugged coastline in Italy. The lush nature trails and clean salty air felt like freedom. We were on a trip of a lifetime, hiking the picturesque cliffs that joined the Cinque Terra’s five famous fishing villages. But, during our walk, something happened that has stuck with me forever. A hiker ahead slowed down as they reached around into their backpack and pulled out a plastic bag which looked like it was holding a nappy. I could see them fumbling around with the bag for a few minutes and then they tossed the bag right off the cliff – into the pristine sparkling ocean that we were so captivated by. I was shocked and instantly felt saddened. I couldn’t believe what I had just witnessed.”

with you, to help keep your travelling experience turtle-friendly. Although the night-before packing extravaganza is hectic at the best of times, if we want to be swimming in water rather than plastic, there is no better time to start making a change than now. So, wherever your feet plan to take you for your next adventure, pack well, so you can do your best to leave only footprints. Footprints with plenty of space on this beautiful earth for others to enjoy in the future. We want our children to be able to travel, explore and enjoy the natural wonders of the world, free of the plastic tainting its natural beauty. We are the generation of change. The generation that can empower and have a positive impact on our environment. Come join us.

We live in such a convenience driven world and have become really good at throwing stuff ‘away’ but not thinking about the consequence of where ‘away’ is.

As travellers, we understand that limited access to refuse services, lack of environmental education, and the abundance of cheap single-use plastics, all exacerbate our environmental problems. But for those who look on in disgust at the situations in other countries and shake their heads like the first-world cares more, the reality is: we are just better at pretending that we do while we hide the truth. We live in such a convenience driven world and have become really good at throwing stuff ‘away’ but not thinking about the consequence of where ‘away’ is.

For every village of forty houses in our homeland of Australia there is no doubt a much bigger ‘sea’ of plastic waste exists, hiding in our landfill. Stumbling across another example of unmanaged plastic waste polluting a landscape should inspires us to take more steps to refuse letting plastic into our lives – wherever we are in the world. We know the routines of home help facilitate our waste minimisation, with bulk food orders, fruit and veggie boxes, and easy access to products that support our values. While travelling entails many unknown, there are a few simple things you can take

MEET

Jess Brosnan

Jess is a passionate zero waste enthusiast and Naturopath who loves to motivate and inspire others to tread a little lighter and greener. Jess lives in the far North of Western Australia with her husband and two small children; exploring, camping and adventuring while being mindful of her environmental impact. Follow Jess's journey to zero waste on her Facebook page Jessica Louise Wellbeing or jlbrosnan@hotmail.com www.jessicalouisewellbeing.com

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JESS'S ZERO WASTE Camping E X P E R I M E N T

Jess’s Zero Waste Camping Experiment At the beginning of this year we made a commitment to work towards actively reducing our household waste and living a zero waste life. Over the last few years, I had become more conscious of our waste but still never took it seriously. I recycled, and occasionally took my own bags to the supermarket, but I wasn’t looking at the bigger picture. Then, late 2017, after watching the War on Waste television series on the ABC, something clicked. The fire inside of me, that had built up over the years since witnessing the rubbish being ditched over the cliff in Italy, had finally reached boiling point – it suddenly became clear that I needed to change. So my zero waste journey began. What is zero waste? The definition is essentially not contributing to landfill. We went from an overflowing weekly landfill bin to completely empty in just five months. We now compost all our food scraps, buy less plastic, opt for loose produce, the kids are in cloth nappies, we take our own containers to the butchers, get a local fruit and vegetable box delivered weekly, and DIY our own cleaning and bathroom products.

Recently, we set off on a five-week camping trip from northern Western Australia to Alice Springs for my hubby to do the Finke Desert race. Afterwards, we saw Uluru, Darwin, Kakadu and Broome – using very little plastic and minimising landfill waste. We travel light, taking only the bare essentials: our camper, car, clothes, and the kids. We took our own water containers and water filter with a universal tap; had a portable fridge full of pre-cooked frozen dinners in reusable bags; breakfast and lunches were prepared from scratch; and had plastic-free snacks ready to go on the ten thousand kilometre journey. We always have our zero waste essentials with us including cutlery, coffee cups, bamboo straws, food containers and smoothie cups. We also kept four separate waste bins for compost, landfill, soft plastics, and recyclables, and disposed of them appropriately at the end of the trip. Zero waste isn’t about being perfect – it’s about doing what you can and making better choices. If we all just do one thing each day to live a more sustainable life, that one simple change will have a huge, positive, and longterm impact on our beautiful mother earth. Don’t wait. Be the change you want to see and start reducing your landfill waste today!

Living zero waste takes preparation, especially when going camping, so here are my tips for camping with a little less waste: • Ditch the disposables and opt for durable plastic or stainless-steel reusable plates, cups, cutlery, utensils. Check your local op shop • Replace paper towels with tea towels or cut up some old towels into squares Invest in a large durable plastic or stainlesssteel water container • Buy a universal portable water filter to fill up your water container and reusable water bottles • Take collapsible food containers to save space and hold any leftovers • Meal plan and pre-prepare food at home to portion sizes and freeze in reusable bags

and whole fruit like bananas, mandarins, dates, apples and kiwi fruit • Keep your reusable coffee cups in your car for roadhouse stops on those long drives, or pull over and boil the kettle and fill the thermos for the next stop • Avoid buying ice. Use a portable fridge/ freezer, or plan ahead by making block ice or frozen water bottles as ice packs • Borrow or buy good quality secondhand camping gear. Buy only what you absolutely need • Invest in a canvas bin and ditch the plastic bin bags

• Take your own condiments, rice, pasta, beans etc in recyclable cans and reusable containers

• Separate your waste into landfill, compost, recycling and soft plastics (REDcycle) and dispose of appropriately. Compost can be dropped at community gardens

• Avoid buying roadhouse food. Preprepare car snacks such as mini quiches, homemade yoghurt pouches, bliss balls,

• Pick up five pieces of rubbish each day and leave your campsite cleaner than you found it.

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ZERO

Waste R E C I P E S Zero Waste Winter Camp Breakfast (great for the whole family) Porridge mix (pre-make prior to trip and store in air-tight container) 4 cups oats 2 cups pitted dates ½ cup chia seeds Blend for 5 seconds Add 1 more cup oats, stir through Porridge ½ tin coconut milk ½ cup filtered water 1 peeled chopped apple 1 cup porridge mix Add more water if thickens to quick 1. Cook apple in milk and water first 2. Once softened add porridge mix Use other half of coconut milk in smoothie Buy oats, dates and chia seeds from bulk store Rinse, dry and recycle tin During the summer, prepare the porridge mix and coconut milk in a container before bed and pop in the fridge!

Zero waste smoothie Frozen pineapple Frozen banana Frozen avocado All pre-chopped and frozen at home 1 tsp greens powder Handful loose spinach ½ tin coconut milk Top with filtered water 1. Blend and enjoy

change INCONVENIENT

If there’s one thing I’ve noticed in recent times, it’s the vast majority of people want to do the right thing, just so long as it doesn’t cost too much. Too much time. Too much effort. Too much inconvenience. Too much money. Or a combo of all of the above. WORDS & IMAGE BY: SPUTNIK

ost of us agree we should use less plastic bags. The evidence is overwhelming. It’s bad for the oceans and the environment we all love so much. But take them out of supermarkets and all hell breaks loose.

Most of us agree straws are bad and unnecessary. But get rid of them completely, and what about people with disabilities, or little kids, or people wearing lipstick? Heaven forbid! Most of us agree people should be treated with kindness and respect. But if that means we must use different words to address them, then nopity nope nope, that’s ‘political correctness’ gone mad! Most of us agree murdering animals is bad. But…bacon. The list goes on. Turns out this change stuff can actually be quite inconvenient. If you want stuff to change, sometimes it means we have to change. Go figure. And then there’s the question of who’s going to get all this change happening in the first place. Most of us agree all sorts of things need to change, but who’s leading the change charge? Not most of us. Nope, way too uncomfortable to be out there alone and vulnerable taking a chance. Maybe that’s OK, just so long as we’re quick to support those who do.

And then there’s the question of who’s going to get all this change happening in the first place.

I’m always amazed when I see people expecting change to come from somewhere else. In the form of business guidelines maybe, industry codes perhaps, or even more hilariously, government policy. What are governments and organisations but groups of people? And isn’t that what we are? People? Individuals at first. But put enough of us together, and we’re a powerful force. The #MeToo movement didn’t start as a

Take this very magazine for example. When Amy and Kez started it, it was a massive risk. Most of us agreed the women’s adventure space could really use an awesome magazine like this one, but who would be crazy enough to put themselves out there, put their bums on the line, and make it happen? (Spoiler alert: they did!) And then what? Lots of pats on the back for sure. But it’s fair to say, after years of hard work, and now a recent change in ownership, Amy and Kez aren’t currently sitting back in southern France, rolling around on their beds among hundred-dollar bills. No, they led the crusade, created something beautiful, and now they are exhausted and have passed the baton on. And that’s where you come in. Whether it’s this crusade, or any other, as the old saying goes, ‘If not me, who? If not now, when?’. Movements need movers. And shakers. If you don’t feel like leading change in whatever area you’re passionate about, be it the adventure space or otherwise, it’s equally important that you at least support those who do. Maybe it’s a kind word. Maybe it’s turning up to an event. Maybe it’s voting with your money.

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massive movement, it started with a single voice. Then another. And another. And on it went. Someone started it. But the real change came when so many others joined in. Even though, especially to start with, it was almost certainly uncomfortable and inconvenient. And possibly downright terrifying. So if there was ever a call to arms for positive change in the world, whether that be with gender issues, environmental, or anything else for that matter, it’s this: if kick starting change yourself might seem a bit more than what you’re prepared to sign up for, at least do your best to jump in early with whatever level of support you can when someone else does something worthwhile. When they yell ‘charge’ (or ‘change’), do your best to follow them as closely as possible. We can all be brave in different ways. We can all support in different ways. But we’re all important. Every voice, every kind word, every bought product, and likewise every product not bought, adds up. Because when enough of us get together, we can change all sorts of things. Even the world.

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Consider C O N S C I O U S

CLOTHING WORDS & IMAGES BY: RHIANNA KNIGHT

We all know it’s important to wear the right clothes outdoors. Not because purple is the ‘in’ colour of the season, but because you don’t want to end up sweatier than you need to be hiking up that mountain. When choosing clothes, stink factor isn’t the only thing to consider. There is also the environmental impact of where clothes are made and who is making them. It’s not news that fast food is bad for you, but it might be that fast fashion isn’t any better. We justify so many purchases because they are cheap; it doesn’t matter if you only use it a few times or if the quality is bad because you can just buy another one, right? But by buying cheap, poor quality clothing and gear that is barely used and then thrown in landfill isn’t very environmentally friendly. And we’re happy to bet that like us, you’ve fallen in love with the natural environment which is why you adventure outdoors. So, it’s time to stop making unnecessary negative environmental impact and start making a change. Lucky for us, some brands are starting to step up to the call, increasing transparency about their supply chain and how they are being more sustainable.

Honestly though, the most sustainable thing you can do is not buy anything. Try it out for a month and become conscious of when you’re most tempted to take out your card: is it when you see something on sale, is it when the product you already own is released in a new colour, or are you just bored on your lunch break? Maybe you’ll realise that much of what you purchase you probably don’t need, and on the plus side, you’ll be saving some hard earned cash.

When you know it’s time to make a purchase and invest in good quality gear, spend some time researching the brand that you’re supporting.

If you are trying a new activity and are not sure what to purchase (or aren’t even sure if you’ll like it), it’s better to borrow a friends gear rather than buying something cheap that you’ll only use once. When you know it’s time to make a purchase and invest in good quality gear, spend some time researching the brand that you’re supporting: What is the brand’s environmental and sustainability policy? What fibres do they use?

If you’re new to the world of sustainability there can be a lot to take in, so it’s good to get familiar with some terms before you start researching what your favourite brands currently do or don’t do. There are accreditations such as SA800, WRAP, BSCI and FLA that ensure workers are treated safely and fairly. There are innovative fibres such as recycled polyester, regenerated nylon, and organic fabrics, and Bluesign certified materials that have reduced environmental impact by upcycling raw fibres; and using less water, harmful chemicals and energy to produce.

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Who makes their gear? Are they manufactured to be as cheap as possible, or are they quality made goods that will last? If you can’t find out information about the product and the brand, just ask. If enough people start asking what their clothes are made from, who made them and what manufacturers are doing to reduce their environmental impact, businesses will know how important it is to their customers. And we all know that businesses are nothing without customers.

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Finalist: Anna Streatfield #happyplacetpl

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You got to try and reach for the stars or try and achieve the unreachable C AT H Y

F R E E M A N

Q&A with Macpac Ambassador

DULKARA Martig

WORDS BY: TPL & DULKARA MARTIG

Dulkara Martig is a woman enamoured with outdoor adventure. She hikes, rides, runs, paddles, eats, drinks and sleeps in the outdoors whenever possible – and it seems like it's pretty much always possible. Born on the West Coast and bred in Nelson, New Zealand, Dulkara is everything a Macpac ambassador should be: authentic, capable, and perhaps above all, eager to spread her infectious love of the natural world to as many people who will listen. We asked her about what it’s like being a woman who’s immersed so deeply in the world of outdoor adventure, and the challenges that it can present. What challenges are unique to women in your area of outdoor expertise? As a young woman I found it challenging being a minority in various outdoor groups. I craved female role models and friends to go on missions with. I’ve always loved whitewater but one of the reasons I shied away from it more than other outdoor sports as a young woman was because it was so male-dominated. I found the culture a bit intense. I’ve observed different styles of leadership and decision making amongst women in the outdoors. Perhaps certain characteristics are more common in females than males. One challenge I’ve personally found is that in groups of men I’m often less vocal, less likely to contribute to decision-making and leadership. As a generalisation I think women tend to be less confident, doubting themselves even when they’re highly competent. How do you overcome these challenges? I sought out females who shared the same passions as me. I found a greater sense of belonging amongst a strong group of female adventurers. As I’ve grown older, I’ve also realised that we all bring our own special magic to the world. I used to feel embarrassed at feeling more afraid in the outdoors than my male friends. I don’t worry about what people think much now, I’m just authentic. Now I’m really motivated to get more stories of women in the industry out there; increase the exposure of women in the outdoors. Do you think it’s more difficult for women to take part in outdoor activities than it is for men? I’ve noticed a huge shift in the last few years – I think it’s easier now than it has ever been. And it’s becoming more socially acceptable to share parenting roles. I went riding at Wairoa Gorge mountain bike park last weekend with 16 women. One woman breastfed her 4-month old baby

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between runs, while wearing downhill kit and a full-face helmet. I am really inspired by women having families and still adventuring. I think there used to be more of a perception that men were stronger and better suited to technical outdoor activities. That has definitely changed. There are so many badass women in the outdoors who have proved otherwise! Is there a strong community of female adventurers that you feel part of? Definitely, and it’s growing rapidly. There’s a different vibe in a group of women in the outdoors. I personally find it more relaxed, and generally more supportive. Decision making tends to be more collaborative and there’s this softness that seems unique to girl’s trips. I’m inspired by everyday women who get outside and empower others to do so, women who instigate things, bring people together. I’m inspired by my friends. Right now I’m feeling super inspired by a group of ladies I’m collaborating with – Ashley Peters, Perryn Lydford and Jo Guest. How can other women tap into these communities? Facebook is a great place to start – there are so many awesome women’s specific outdoor groups and events popping up. I think it can be challenging to meet likeminded women at the start but as soon as you meet one or two women you’ll find more. For some reason we tend to hang out in packs! How can these communities continue to grow, and inspire more women to embrace outdoor adventure? Outdoorsy women need to band together, to collaborate, empower and support each other. There are many women’s-only groups and events that are thriving – the Spring Challenge adventure race is a classic example.

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It would be cool to see more representation of women in all walks of the adventure world. But, it will be great when the outdoor community has evolved enough to focus on people as simply people, not as genders – and for women to feel confident embracing the outdoors whoever they are with. I think the outdoors in New Zealand used to have quite a macho feel to it. A few years ago, it seemed pretty common for an outdoor woman to feel like they needed to act more like a man to fit in – or to prove themselves. Are there women you’ve been inspired by in the adventure community? When I was younger, I was mostly inspired by men because that’s who I saw doing things that excited me in the outdoors. But there were a few women. I remember sitting at the New Zealand Kayak School and Jess Brown showing us pictures of some epic paddling in California. As a young woman it made me think ‘wow, that’s cool, they’re crushing it and they’re ladies’. It made me think that it was possible for me to do that if I wanted to. More recently I’ve been inspired by many female co-instructors at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School), a wilderness education organisation I have been working for. www.macpac.com.au

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N O C T U R N A L

Safety for the

URBAN ADVENTURER WORDS & IMAGES BY: DENISE STRATY (MONKEYSEE)

A swag of women designers across the world are now creating cool urban cycling fashion and accessories for women. To the naked eye, they look like everyday fashion accessories, but under lights and on a cyclist, they are glamorous, life-saving adornments. Pieces are subtle enough to integrate into the daily wardrobe, going seamlessly from the staff meeting to happy hour.

BING! You reach for your phone. "Hey hey, I'm in town for the night. Love to catch up. Meet you at the old local @ 7pm?" A glance of the watch says you've got 30 minutes. Laughing with a bestie you haven't seen in ages versus sitting on the couch surfing Netflix for a series you haven't binged yet? You reply quickly.

commuter vibe than your slick road bike. The Old Local is just under 6 kms away so you'll be there in 20 minutes. Perfect. On the shelf next to your bikes is the usual paraphernalia: helmet, lights and lock sit, plus some new, fashion-forward reflective gear. Gear on, bike ready, you hit the night road with confidence to meet your friend.

"Hello! Great. Yes, can do. See you then."

Life of the Nocturnal Urban Adventurer.

A quick dash to the wardrobe to pull on your slim fit jeans, merino knit and leather jacket. You sass it up a little with sexy black leather ankle boots and bam – five minutes later and you are heading to the door.

Urban biking is growing in popularity every year, and fashion is catching up to meet the needs of the people who want to bike in style and safety.

It's dark outside and a mild 15 degrees. You weigh up your transport options. The bus you usually take just passed and Uber is surging. Without a second thought you grab your scarf and head for your bikes on the patio. Tonight is more of an upright

As you roll into the Old Local, past the backed-up traffic, you check your watch – you’ve made good time. With a rush from the endorphins you’re pumped with excitement, bursting with that childlike joy that’s so often hard to find as an adult.

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5 TIPS FOR RIDING AT NIGHT WITH CONFIDENCE: 1 Know your route and choose bike lanes where possible 2 Wear items with reflective

properties 3 Invest in quality lights – front and back 4 Constant vigilance and make eye contact with drivers 5 Enjoy the thrill

ADVENTURE through ADVERSITY WORDS BY: TESS LEY IMAGES BY: TESS LEY & MICHELLE MCKAY

There is something about major change that drives many of us into the wild or toward a new destination. We seek the movement of limbs and strangeness of new environments to stimulate our problem-solving capacity or to find a lost part of ourselves â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as though with each step we are actually moving closer to some unknown solution. But as with any adventure, it is the journey, not the destination that brings about more change than we anticipate.

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When first diagnosed with breast cancer – at 32 years old and 20 weeks pregnant with my second son – the very real fear of significant change overcame me. I knew, as I collapsed to the kitchen floor, a worried doctor on the other end of the phone and my husband rushing into the room at the sound of my sobs, that this diagnosis would change everything. Within a week, I began the first of what has now become 8 surgeries, over 40 chemotherapies, more than 30 radiotherapies, 3 immunotherapies and countless pokes, prods, biopsies, blood tests, scans and scares within 2 years. Cataloging my procedures gives a small sense of the physical trauma I’ve undertaken, but no sense of the severe emotional toll of now having ‘advanced’ (which is the politically correct term for ‘terminal‘) cancer at 34 years old with two children under 5 years. I’ve lost my job, my sense of security, my life plans, much of my physical ability, and to top it all off, my travel insurance (which is strangely a real kick in the guts to someone who loves to explore the world). In short, nearly everything has, in fact, changed. But in different ways to what I had predicted. The unexpected upshot of my illness is the insatiable craving for adventure that quickly emerged. Whilst I’m the most physically broken I have ever been, I’m also the most physically active and adventurous. In the past year alone, I have spent days on end hiking, kayaking, horse-riding, paddle boarding, high ropes adventuring, snow shoeing, bushwalking and even an attempt at rock climbing (which wasn’t great after all that upper chest surgery). Each activity has been my own personal pilgrimage, helping me come to terms with my impending mortality and profoundly extending my understanding of why adventure is an intrinsic partner in times of change. Adventure teaches us to cope with adversity in ways that are deeply healthy. Just as regular exercise increases your fitness; regular adventure increases your capacity to deal with uncertainty and a lack of control. You plan as best you can, but you never come away from an adventure without at least one unexpected curve ball. Be it a broken piece of equipment, a wrong turn, or the heavens opening above us, we quickly learn that nature and adven-

ture don’t care for our complaints. You can surrender to your situation and do something about it (accept that it is raining and put on a waterproof jacket), or you can complain and get angry, but either way: it’s raining. This lesson, demonstrated over and over, in so very many forms on my adventures, has been pivotal in transforming my mindset around my illness. Because, adventures require conscious attention. Conscious decision making. Using the rain analogy, you don’t just accidentally fall into your rain jacket: you must consciously choose to put it on. And with the consistent practice of surrendering to changes of circumstances, and making conscious choices to improve my outlook, like anything, I am now better at responding to changes in my health and personal life. The separation from my everyday life is undoubtedly part of this process. To remove ourselves physically (not just figuratively), from our home environment and to place ourselves in a foreign environment is essential to provide a space for independent reflection. Segregated from the ‘stuff’ that makes us ‘us’, we are left with little material possessions on adventures. Our homes, our books, our clothes, our trinkets. As we separate from our belongings, so too do we separate from our distractions, from the third party ‘things’ which form our personal identity. And often, left to our own devices, we gently (and almost unconsciously), shift back into our true selves. We can suddenly recognise what is truly important to us. A realignment with our inner values. I often notice that my 4 year-old is just as happy playing with sticks and stones on a hike as he is with the latest Lego at home; the joy comes from the act of play, not the toy itself. As we separate from the ‘things’ that form the habits, we are left solely with the act itself and we have no choice but to face it head on. The pull toward habits while adventuring is something I have found confronting, largely because the effort it takes to maintain any one habit highlights the addiction to the habit itself. I have been known to drive an extra 15-20km just for a cup of tea at 10am. But the truth is, adventuring causes a conscious examination of these habits and an incremental shift away from the subconscious control they have. We buy a coffee from the random milk bar at the local town on the way to a hike; we sleep on a side of the tent that is different to the normal spot in our bed at home; we don’t check our phone for messages because we already know we’re out of range. The change in innumerable old habits begin to unconsciously serve a whole new lifestyle more aligned with our personal values. We naturally gravitate to an authentic us, what millions before us have sought, as they placed one foot in front of another on their pilgrimages to Bethlehem, Santiago or Mecca. Reflection, clarity and spiritual enlightenment toward their own personal inner conflict.

The unexpected upshot of my illness is the insatiable craving for adventure that quickly emerged. Whilst I’m the most physically broken I have ever been, I’m also the most physically active and adventurous.

Change is inevitable. As Marcus Aurelius stated, “Every part of me will…be reduced by change into some part of the universe, and that again will change into another part of the universe, and so on forever.” Whether adventure is a coping strategy for dealing with change in your life, or whether adventure has been the catalyst for change in your life, the consciousness with which we approach adventures can often lead to unexpected (but not unwelcome) enlightenment on what we wish to do in our short, but very precious, time on this earth.

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yes FIND THE

Courage to say

WORDS & IMAGES BY: SENKA RADONICH

I can remember the very moment I made the decision to go on an adventure that seemed crazy in my mind, but so right in my soul. And it was in that moment that I knew an adventure like no other would unfold before I even hit the road.

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Four months before turning 40 years old, I decided to get rid of most of what I owned, stop giving my dream lip service and finally pack up my entire life to move into Hank the Tank (my 4WD), travel New Zealand and run my business on the road. Maybe it was the fact that such a significant birthday was coming up and I took a look back over my life. Or maybe it was that it had been five years since my mum had passed away at the young age of 61 – before she could do all the things she wanted to do – that got me asking myself, “What’s the one thing you have always wanted to do and haven’t?” Life has a funny way of bringing together moments where the call from your soul for adventure is louder than your fears.

drift off to the sound of the waves pounding the rocks on the rugged West Coast. Sometimes I wake to frost on my windscreen as the snow capped mountains bring a fresh -3 degrees. Sometimes I wonder what I’d be doing if I hadn’t had the courage to say ‘yes’ to the adventure of life on the road. I’ve climbed mountains I didn’t even know I could. I’ve stayed in remote huts, walked through sand, snow and mud. I’ve ridden breathtaking mountain bike trails in lush West Coast forest and rugged, rough South Island terrain.

What’s the one thing you have always wanted to do and haven’t?

It’s in those moments we expand our courage and say ‘yes’ to adventure. We say yes to stepping into the unknown of the ‘how’. We say yes to trusting that the adventure will unfold before us as it needs to. We say yes to allowing us to go for our dreams. For some crazy reason we get stuck in our ‘groundhog’ day version of life believing that that’s how it is. Oh hell no sista…. Life is whatever you want it to be. Now I get to wake up snuggled in my sleeping bag in some of New Zealand’s most epic places. Sometimes I

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I’ve taken Hank the Tank four wheel driving to the top of a mountain and sat and cried at the pure wonder of nature. When I said ‘yes’ to my soul’s call for adventure 12 months ago, never did I think it would change my life the way that it has.

Even though the challenges of rainy days, muddy gear and lonely nights has made me question from time to time if I’m doing the right thing, I can honestly answer ‘yes’, the adventure of it is worth it. I’ve found new levels to my courage that I never would have found. Adventure has a funny way of bringing that out in all of us. So, whatever adventure it is that your soul craves, find the courage to say YES and go for it. www.nzadventuregirl.com

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Greenland

GRAND A D V E N T U R E

WORDS BY: BRIDGET KRUGER IMAGES BY: KEITH PARSONS & BENGT ROMO

Ski across Greenland they said. What a grand adventure I thought. But does anyone else have this problem with wearing rose tinted glasses when dreaming up the next big adventure? Magical images come surging into my head about how it is going to be. It always involves perfect weather and me looking like a strong warrior goddess who is absolutely in her element. My hair blowing theatrically in the wind while I throw my head back in laughter. It is a classic image that accompanies each new far out dream I have. Pity they never quite work out that way. But to hell with happy endings. Ultimately, we are in it for the story.

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kiing across Greenland was one of the most difficult journeys I have ever completed. I was part of a small handpicked team, led by the New Zealand based Antarctic Heritage Trust, for their third Inspiring Explorers’ Expedition. The Trust are the guardians of the early explorer bases down in Antarctica, and the aim of their expeditions is to connect young people with the spirit of exploration.

As an adventure therapist, encouraging youth to step outside of their comfort zones and be more curious about life is a huge part of the work that I do. I had lost touch with that feeling myself though, and this expedition helped me regain it by throwing me over the edge with its continuous challenges. I have always been strong and I have always been a leader. I grew up in remote western Queensland and I guess all that country air and farm life prepared me for the rough and tumble of the outdoors. We were constantly adventuring as children, and this bubbled over into my adult life where I became an outdoor instructor and therapist. In my twenties, I managed to live and work on every continent, taking up every strange and wonderous opportunity that came my way; charging through life full of vibrancy and flair. Greenland however, was a different story. While I envisioned myself as a graceful and powerful ski warrioress, there was nothing glamorous about that crossing at all. Most days I felt completely useless. It would take me 15 minutes every morning to pull on my rock-solid frozen boots. After slipping those dreaded ice-blocks onto my feet, my tentmate Hollie and I would clumsily take down our tent. With three layers of mittens on, our dexterity was seriously debilitated. From there, it was anywhere between 10 and 16 hours of skiing before we would set up camp again. We would ski in a line, one behind the other, and have a 10-minute break every hour. It was a world of vast nothingness. The best way to describe it is to imagine being on the inside of a ping pong ball, white stretching out all around you. Some days the blizzards were so intense I didn’t know where up or down actually was. I just felt like I was floating in a cloud, waiting to fall out of it. We battled wild weather conditions including two hurricanes. Each time, we had to dig our tents down into what I imagined was their own grave. Then we used the excess snow we’d dug out as a huge wall to barricade us against the ferocious winds. I had never been in a situation like it before; I couldn’t stand up against the wind or was blown upwards in my tent from the wind howling underneath it. We bunkered down for 36 hours at time, snow falling like cement and enclosing the tents in on us. These delightful moments were considered our ‘rest days’. There is nothing like the steady drum of 180 km/hr wind against the tent to lull you into sleep.

We battled wild weather conditions including two hurricanes. Each time, we had to dig our tents down into what I imagined was their own grave.

We often talked about why people are crazy enough to do expeditions like this in the first place. Our magnificent guide believed that people did it for the suffering. While in those first few weeks we were still having a great time, our fair share of suffering was going around. Both gastro and a terrible chest infection swept through the group and caused me to cough up blood every day for a week. We often dealt with temperatures of minus 40⁰C. Even though there was no real exposure, my legs became riddled with frost bite – believe it or not, the fat in my legs had frozen. It turns out ladies that cellulite is the gift that just keeps giving, not only does it look fabulous in bikini’s, but it can also catch frostbite. Because of the illness plaguing us and poor weather conditions, we had to extend the number of hours skiing from 10 hours to 16 hours per day. My body was exhausted and the extra hours started to bring back brain injury symptoms. Five years ago, I was involved in a dog sledding accident where a client lost control of their sled and ran over my head. The sleds we used were 250 kg plus the weight of two people on top; heavy enough to crush a skull. My vestibular system was severely damaged, and my brain forced me to sleep for days at a time to repair itself. I lost my short-term memory and my ability to balance. It took months of physical therapy to be able to function normally again. These days, my brain injury affects me mostly when I am tired. My body goes into survival mode and shuts down everything that isn’t needed to function – including

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my personality. I lose my sense of balance and fall over a lot. My vision becomes foggy, and my brain feels like it is on fire. I find it incredibly hard to concentrate on anything at these times and noise or over stimulation is like a knife being stabbed over and over in my skull. This added challenge threw me into having to rely on others to help me make it through. I needed extra sleep, so Hollie boiled water for me at night before she went to bed herself. The boys carried extra weight for Hollie and me, so it was less strain on us. This didn’t sit well with me at all. I felt like a complete burden on the team. Deep down, I know that everyone needs extra help at certain times, but I just wasn’t comfortable with being that person. I realised that my sense of self-worth was wrapped up in my perceived level of productivity. This belief system was instilled in me throughout childhood and moulds its way into my life in many forms, one being perfectionism. Believing that if you are not the best or doing your best, then it is not enough – that you are not enough. If I was sick I would consider myself to be weak and ‘less than’ because I was not as productive as usual. Throughout the time on the expedition, when my head injury symptoms returned, and I couldn’t contribute much to the team physically, I felt so much shame. This shame ate away at my soul, affecting my mood and my state of mind even more. It was like a deep seeded sense of fear that I was the weakest link – the primal part of me was expecting to be kicked out of the tribe. The brain is a remarkable thing. The thoughts you feed into it become ingrained within your reality. In short, your thoughts become things.

We often talked about why people are crazy enough to do expeditions like this in the first place. Our magnificent guide believed that people did it for the suffering.

Imagine the scenario: there I was in Greenland, telling myself for ten hours a day that I was useless and going to be kicked out of the tribe. This affected my emotions and my energy. My emotions were rock bottom and I couldn’t find pleasure in anything around me. My headaches got worse with the strain of intense emotions, affecting my balance and vision. It was a vicious cycle. I knew this about the brain though. This wasn’t new information to me. What I needed was a massive shift in my perspective about the situation. That shift came in the form of Hollie my beautiful tentmate. Both of us had been struggling through a lot, and I was just so lucky to have such an incredible person to be with each day. We made each

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other laugh through the suffering, and she inspired me with thoughts of what we could become. Every day we would pull out motivational quotes she had carefully prepared before the journey to keep our spirits up. On one particular day the quote was ‘Pain is inevitable, but misery is optional.’ I realised I hadn’t been able to step out of my misery to see past the pain of what was going on with my body and the shame of being less strong than I expected.

As women, we are expected to be many different things: A nurturer with the patience of a saint; a passionate warrioress; a fashionista but also an adventurer who likes to get grubby; an empowerer; a pillar of strength yet a gentle carer; a lover, but a lady on the street; a brilliant cook; an intelligent woman who stands in her truth but doesn’t voice her opinions too loudly. The list goes on and on. It’s exhausting. And if we don’t measure up to those labels and expectations, we are led to believe we are not enough. What was beautiful to me about the expedition was the friendship I had with Hollie. How she accepted and loved me for me – for what I thought was my ‘less than’ and ‘not enough’ self. If she and the others could accept me in this state, then why couldn’t I?

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On the last few days of the expedition we crossed paths with another team. We had first met them weeks earlier, when they raced for days to catch up to us. As a team we were on the slow side, largely due to the sickness and weather obstacles. In the early days we had compared ourselves to them, but now here they were: battered, beaten, and just in front of us – they were a total emotional wreck. They had pushed themselves far past their limits and were barely talking to each other. I was so grateful towards my team for having such a sense of unity and giving it all to help each other through the journey. Witnessing the other team’s lack of empathy towards weaker members made my compassion for those women soar. I really came to appreciate that, even though we are taught to value strengths – like being the fastest, strongest, or best at something – there are far more important traits to value, like emotional strengths. I was not doing myself justice by judging myself on lack of physical strength when I have so much more to offer. My migraines and symptoms had finally started to ease at this point and my energy surged. I was no longer worried about being a burden, but rather focussed on making life for these other women more bearable. Even though there was still some pain, I shifted my energy into joy. The most awe-inspiring scenes enveloped us in the last 21 hours of the expedition. It was a magical, fantasy-like day. We started to see mountains emerge out of the vast whiteness around us – the first real thing we had seen in 27 days. As the mountains grew into view we skied closer to the sea; our unified team giggling, laughing and finally going downhill. We were having such an amazing time and feeling so pumped up on good energy. As the day grew into night, the sun

set over four or five hours, blanketing us in stunning light that sparkled off the snow. The moon rose, a huge gorgeous fiery orb, and it looked like we were skiing down on a sea of clouds to meet it. It was the most beautiful evening of my life, and the images will forever be imprinted on my memory. The night turned into day and we were still skiing. Somehow, through all the exhaustion we could still carry on. The gravity of the expedition only truly sank in when I returned home. I had walked across an entire country. Even though, at times, the dramatic part of me felt like I was being marched to my death, I continued to put one foot in front of the other. The human body is capable of way more than we give it credit for – the human mind even more so. We get so caught up in what we expect ourselves to be that sometimes we forget to see the beautiful gift that we can be at all. I am so appreciative of the fact that I am still able to adventure after the accident, and that I am capable of the feat that I had completed. My physical strength doesn’t define me. Neither does being the best or perfect. The greatest thing that this journey taught me is to accept my body and myself in all its seasons. While I generally operate in a flourishing state of Summer and Spring (my vibrant self) – especially while I am travelling and working – I find it so difficult to accept it when my mind, body and soul are exhausted. Giving myself full permission to be in those states, and feel those emotions without feeling shame, has been one of my most powerful learnings.

The moon rose, a huge gorgeous fiery orb, and it looked like we were skiing down on a sea of clouds to meet it.

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I am enough in all states and seasons. Instagram: @adventuresofawildchild

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As a wildlife photographer I have a front row seat for the World Conservation Olympics. While other nations struggle to live in harmony with nature, I think the small, relatively unknown Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan may be the underdog that wins the gold medal. During my Bhutan adventure, I learned a lot about Buddhism and its relationship with nature. I also learned a lot about myself.

WORDS & IMAGES BY: MICHELLE LAWFORD

ross National Happiness (a complex index of the nation’s well-being), does not just apply to people, but also to animals. It seems to me that the animals of Bhutan are very happy, and this happiness appears to be the envy of intelligent animals in neighbouring states. Researchers are finding that increasingly, tigers are crossing the border from India and coming to live in Bhutan – if this is illegal migration, the Bhutanese don’t seem to mind! In Tango, just outside the capital Thimphu, my guide Dashi showed me a photo of a tiger seen sauntering down the road just a week before. But, it’s not just tigers that are popping up. Dashi told me that elephants cross over into Bhutan every night from Assam, where poachers are active, and then cross back into their home territory in the morning. Somehow, even the elephants know that killing animals in Bhutan is illegal and punishable by life in prison.

exhilarating. Here I was in a country teeming with one of the most diverse and plentiful populations of fauna in the world, but actually seeing any of it required luck. Wildlife photographers don’t like relying on luck. Shoots are usually planned around predictable events such as migration, feeding and mating. Every ethical means is employed to increase the quality and duration of contact: hides, stands, trackers, and helicopters. In Bhutan, connecting with nature is simply more natural. I had to let go of the obsession pounding in the heart of every wildlife fanatic. The need to ‘just let go’ was evident from the start when I realised my guide, Anjana, was very knowledgeable about Bhutan’s culture and history but she did not know much about Bhutan’s animals. This was very different from most of my trips where my guides are indigenous trackers, expert in locating wildlife. Instead of being focused, I had to be open. This was not going to be easy!

At the Cheri Monastery, perched at an altitude of 2850 metres in Jigme Dorji National Park, I entered the temple and opened my heart and mind to the possibility of relinquishing control.

Bhutan is a preserve for some of our planet’s most rare animals including snow leopards, tigers, red pandas, and moon bears. Impressively, 72 per cent of the country consists of protected habitat. The happiness of these ecologically diverse habitats has also been ensured. The first thing I noticed was that, apart from Manas National Park, all the other national parks in Bhutan lack any kind of infrastructure. The only way to traverse these vast wilderness areas is on foot. This has a two-fold effect: it makes Bhutan the ideal destination for hiking and long treks into pristine landscapes; and it means wildlife is protected, not just by law, but also by inaccessibility. As a wildlife photographer, this was both exasperating and

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At the Cheri Monastery, perched at an altitude of 2850 metres in Jigme Dorji National Park, I entered the temple and opened my heart and mind to the possibility of relinquishing control. The monk opened the palm of his hand to me and I took the sacred dice and rolled it for good luck. Despite my new-found zen, I must confess the intoxication I felt during the steep hike down when I spotted a mother Himalayan Goral (mountain goat), and her baby on a rocky ledge. The mum lovingly licked her baby, who reciprocated by climbing on top of the mother’s head. All new mothers can feel they are teetering on the edge, but this mother was literally on a precipice, barely holding on, tolerating her everenergetic youngster’s antics. These rare moments with an

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elusive maternal couplet were heavenly. Whether it was high altitude light-headedness or the practice of mindfulness, my experience was intense.

humans. I soon learned (and beseeched Anjana) to maintain a substantial distance from them, otherwise they would become alarmed and rapidly disappear into the thick foliage.

Although I tried to embrace the Buddhist teaching of not forming attachments, I still desperately hoped that the road less travelled from Tronsga to Tingtibi, via Zhemgang, would yield wildlife sightings. Following the rim of Djime Synge Wangchuck National Park, my driver, Sunam, cheerfully headed south on the impossibly narrow, one lane ‘highway’. There is literally no room for road rage here! The road twists and writhes like a deranged snake as it clings perilously to the mountain edge. Every turn is a blind corner. All the drivers proceed slowly and courteously – another expression of Buddhist philosophy or plain common sense?

Reaching the village of Tingtibi at dusk, we were greeted by a tree heavy with golden langur families getting ready for bed. It was becoming dark, and I was so exhausted from 10 hours of treacherous travel I felt I didn’t have the strength to lift my camera and heavy 100-400mm lens. Usually, this would never deter me – I would just will myself to find that extra bit of energy. But, there is something about Bhutan that gave me permission to just sit by the tree and surrender myself to the experience. In that moment I had no purpose or goal other than to witness something beautiful.

Road works to upgrade the highway added the charm of an obstacle course to the journey. Parts of the mountain had fallen onto the road and parts of the road had fallen down the mountain. Legend has it that Black Mountain Forest used to be inhabited by a vicious demon that was subdued centuries ago, but Anjana said she still felt the demon’s presence and would not suggest travelling on this stretch of road at night. I quite agree!

Tingtibi is only known to the most passionate birders and is very much off the beaten track. Anjana had never been there before, but the queen of networking started to chat with a local man sitting on a porch and he just happened to be a birding guide. The next morning, we were up at dawn and had the most wonderful five-hour amble in a forest alive with the sounds of birds warbling, laughing, chirping, tweeting, twittering, crowing, cooing, singing, shrieking, and, in the case of the red hornbill, barking. Then, to top it off, I heard a barking deer actually bark.

There is something about Bhutan that gave me permission to just sit by the tree and surrender myself to the experience. In that moment I had no purpose or goal other than to witness something beautiful.

The long hours on this road paid off and we spotted three different troupes of golden langurs. Furry cream youngsters played and squabbled. I captured them swinging away on vines to escape or to drop in on an unsuspecting playmate. Sometimes, the playmate reached up to sabotage a manoeuvre by pulling on that irresistibly long thick furry tail. There were games of chasey up and down trees, and great feats of leaping from branch to branch. A mum with her tiny orange baby was very loving and protective; allowing the baby to explore a little but then taking him into her arms when he ventured too far.

Anjana had never seen golden langurs before and she was absolutely besotted and delighted. Now I was the guide and she was discovering another world within her own country. Wildlife photography is usually all about staying very still and very quiet, but Anjana could hardly contain her enthusiasm as she raced towards the langurs, pointing and calling out. This had a predictable effect on the langurs. Clearly these wild animals were totally unhabituated to the presence of

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After the euphoria of my wildlife fix, we returned to Paro. I reverted to a bit of old fashioned retail therapy and bought an exquisite antique Buddha. Anjana was very excited and said we would take my Buddha on our high altitude climb up to Tiger’s Nest (Taktsang) to be blessed by a monk. The hike up to Taktsang is one of life’s great experiences. I saw people of all shapes, ages, nationalities and fitness levels walking together; in a spirit of adventure and breathlessness. Some hikers sported the latest trekking gear, and some made the rainy, muddy ascent in a sari and thongs. The blessing of my Buddha is a memory I will always cherish. Anjana, like most Bhutanese, is deeply religious. I am not a religious person, but what was holy for me was the genuine affection and honour she bestowed on me through this gift. Buddhism is the key to unlocking the soul of Bhutan. Perhaps thousands of monks meditating many times a day have a real effect on the psyche of a nation. The monasteries of

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Bhutan may be remote and inaccessible, but the monks are not. I was struck by the unique relationship the people seem to have with the highly respected monks. I witnessed a beautiful combination of reverence tempered with familiarity and affection – I guess you could call it love. There are approximately 10,000 monks in Bhutan and I think Anjana, an irrepressible chatterbox, knows every one of them! Anjana could not pass anyone without having a conversation. At first, stopping to talk to people (instead of locating animals) was a little frustrating for me, but I met so many wonderful people, including the man walking down the road carrying a new-born calf. He explained that the mother had been so traumatised by the birth she had abandoned her baby and he now had to be the mother. “She is a first-time mother. She will do better next time”, he said gently.

As a psychologist, I teach and practice mediation and mindfulness, and incorporate it into my busy life. In Bhutan, meditation and mindfulness is not just something you do; it is the essence of where you are and who you are. Its something akin to the feeling I get in Sydney when I occasionally meditate at a Buddhist temple and experience the power of communal meditation. I think in the wild, the total absorption and wonder I feel may also be a kind of meditation. Bhutan just turns the dial up on contemplating the vastness of the untouched physical and metaphysical landscape.

As our human population increases, sharing the planet with other species is one of our greatest challenges.

Wherever we went, I spoke (through Anjana) to people bound together through Buddhism and a conviction that government policy is underpinned by respect for all living things. If a country can have a soul and a conscience, I felt it most tangibly in Bhutan. I experienced the spiritual presence of nature itself while hiking through a misty forest of pink and red rhododendron at Dochula Pass. The high-altitude vapour was so delicious and cool, I could feel my lungs expanding to accept this gift and felt the thin air infusing my brain with a natural high.

At the end of my odyssey, was I frustrated because I hadn’t seen a snow leopard or a red panda? No. I saw extraordinary temples and was awed by meditations of monks bowed in silent contemplation. Cascades of maroon-robed monks dazzled me as they poured down the steps of monasteries. I laughed with men and woman barely older than me; their faces carved and chiselled by a harsh climate and a harsh life. They were also the fittest people I will ever meet, including the sixty-year old woman who hikes up and down Taktsang twice a day with packs of horses! I mastered the ancient art of making a bowl sing – it took a whole afternoon of learning to relax, while putting enormous pressure on myself to succeed. I was reminded that seeing truly wild animals is an extraordinary privilege, not an agenda.

Perhaps my next challenge will be to work out how to hold on to my zen once I return home and begin planning my next trip as I effortlessly seduce a song out of my singing bowl. What is undeniable is that, as a photographer, I have expanded my horizons. In Bhutan, I took almost as many shots of monks as of monkeys.

As our human population increases, sharing the planet with other species is one of our greatest challenges. What brought me the most joy in Bhutan is the fact that this is one of the last remaining protected, pristine wilderness regions in the world. Here, wild animals have nothing to fear from humans. The geography has dictated a humble way of life and the people, in turn, nurture their little piece of the Himalayas. I discovered that Bhutan is beautiful by nature.

TRIP NOTES To apply for a Visa to visit Bhutan, you must be part of a tour and a guide must accompany you throughout your stay (which is a lovely way to get a real insight into Bhutan). You can join an organised tour, form your own group or travel by yourself. Visit www.tourism.gov.bt for lists of recommended tours and guides.

For me, this had been a very different kind of adventure. Instead of the usual emphasis on pushing myself physically, the challenges were more psychological and spiritual. Disclaimer: Michelle Lawford travelled as a guest of Tourism Council of Bhutan. She had a fabulous luxury stopover in Bangkok as a guest of Como Metropolitan, and was treated to their famous Shambhala Spa massage and Glow wellness cuisine. www.wild-photography.com.au

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A Woman in harmony with her spirit is like a river flowing. She goes where she will without pretense and arrives at her destination prepared to be herself and only herself. M AYA

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Finalist photo credit: Donna Nixon #happyplacetpl 044

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Snow GOING

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WORDS BY: ALICE KING IMAGES BY: BEN CIRULIS

At 2am it was -15 degrees outside (and inside) our tent. I gradually became aware of a faint whimpering noise…and then realised it was coming from me. I was already wearing all my layers inside my sleeping bag, and there were still another five hours to make it through before sunrise. So how did I end up here, snow camping in Kosciuszko National Park in the middle of winter?

couple of months earlier, I found myself in a flat frame of mind. A string of ongoing injuries had me thinking about all the activities I couldn’t do, and not particularly enjoying the ones I could. I was feeling unfit and uninspired, just drifting along from week to week.

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It was time to make a change. I sat down and brainstormed my ‘Adventure List’. Anything that sparked a sense of excitement went straight to the top, be that big or small, new ideas or old favourites – night time mountain biking, a yoga retreat with my girlfriends, trying out bouldering in the local climbing gym, off-road running at sunrise, borrowing my friend’s dogs for outdoor playtime. Somehow the list of things I couldn’t do didn’t seem quite so important anymore.

Emails bounced back and forth across the Tasman. Before I knew it, it was really happening. In six months time, my Dad, my brothers, my husband Ben and I would be spending a week trekking across a glacier. Crampons, ice axes, snow camping – the works!

Anything that felt like a ‘should’ rather than a ‘hell yeah!’ got left off – which was half of my existing weekly routine. It was like a switch had been flicked, lighting up ordinary life with the potential for adventure. But out of all the ideas on the list, there was one big one I kept coming

My Dad, a rugged Kiwi outdoorsman, has spent years talking wistfully about wanting to do ‘the trip of a lifetime’, a mountaineering expedition over South Island New Zealand’s Barrier Range. I called him and said “Are you serious about doing this trip this year? Because if you are, I’ll come with you.”

I drew up a gear list and blocked out hiking training weekends in the calendar. Interestingly now that I had a big picture goal to prepare for, some of the ‘should’ things on my list – like doing my physio rehab exercises – shifted back to a ‘yeah’ (if not quite a ‘hell yeah!’). There was just one little problem. I’m bad with the cold. As in, I struggle with chilblains (stage 1 frostbite) in Sydney’s ‘winter’. Was I really going to be able to handle sleeping in the snow?

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There was only one way to find out. Armed with a bunch of new and borrowed alpine gear, we headed for the Snowy Mountains. If equipment maketh the mountaineer, I was well on my way there. After sleeping in the van by the roadside we started early. Driving into an awakening world, morning light flooded the fields with gold. A quick stop for coffee and ski hire gear in Jindabyne, and we were winding our way up the mountain, the sky that uncomplicated shade of blue usually only seen in tourism brochures. Snow dusted the tips of the trees, sketching the landscape as a study in white. It was a bluebird day, the kind that skiers wax lyrical over. I couldn’t call myself a skier – my couple of childhood snow trips were distant memories – but the optimism of the day swept over me all the same. First time backcountry skiing, with a pack? Piece of cake. Camping in the snow? That’s tonight’s problem to worry about. I still remembered ‘french fries’ and ‘pizza’ – what else could I need? Right now, there was just me and a whole mountain full of white fluffy stuff to explore.

Ben glided competently off ahead, and I waddled awkwardly after. Soon the slope started to steepen, and I looked up, and up, and up, all the way to Ramshead, a majestically towering edifice far above. “We’ll just do a quick lap before lunch”, he said enthusiastically, taking ten long steps to my every one. Even with my new hill-climbing moves ‘reverse pizza’ and ‘sideways crab’, I made snail-like progress. After an hour of calf-cramping shuffling, the top still didn’t look any closer. Thankfully Ben realised his plan might be a little optimistic and we made a welcome diversion to the kiddies’ toboggan slope. Some gentle laps had me feeling much more in my element, and after a lunch stop for a hot Cup-of-Soup, I was ready to take on the second half of the day. We set out on the Cascades trail, leaving the populated road behind. The hum and swish of cars and clatter of voices soon faded, swallowed by the silence of the white clad snowgum forest. Before us the valley stretched out in a vast expanse of white, divided by the smooth black ribbon of the river. There wasn’t another soul in sight. As we slowly ascended the backbone of Bob’s Ridge, a flock of rosella parrots flitted amongst the gums, crimson feathers vibrant against the snow. Away from their chatter, the stillness

took on a palpable quality. I could almost feel it, hushed and velvety against my skin. I was getting tired now, moving slower with every step. Our shadows grew long, and the sun hung low in the sky. It was time to set up camp before the light ran out. We picked a stretch of perfect, untouched snow. Feeling somewhat criminal interrupting that perfection, we shovelled and stamped a flat section to pitch on. I had yet to be cold all day, but seeing our little yellow tent dwarfed by its icy surrounds, I felt my misgivings return with a shiver. We ate our hot packet meals and sipped cups of tea, watching the last light slip out of the sky. There is something profoundly satisfying about reducing life down to its simplest components – food, shelter, warmth – and feeling body and mind at rest together. The temperature was dropping rapidly, so we retreated into the tent, burrowing into our sleeping bags and turning off our headlights. Darkness closed around us like a fist. My initial cosiness was fleeting, replaced with a creeping chill. Suffice to say the next twelve hours were ones of quiet (or, given the whimpering, not so quiet) desperation, as I experienced a first-hand demonstration of the difference between the ‘comfort’ and ‘survival’

ratings of my sleeping bag. The longest night of my life crawled by, hour by hour. I slipped off into sleep at one point, and found myself in a colourfully tiled bathhouse, the air filled with steam and a hot bath waiting for me to sink into it. At that point, I woke up again, my breath condensing into delicate patterns of frost on the tent roof. Yet endless as the night seemed, the earth gradually turned, and the sun eventually rose, an unbreakable pattern from time upon time. Our tent glowed yellow in the dawn light and my heart lifted. As I looked out over the layers of the early morning landscape, memories of the dark melted away, helped on their way by a hot cup of tea. A fresh day was waiting. It was all down hill back to the van. I seemed to have the hang of things today with only one crash along the way. While I skied, I reflected. No, adventure isn’t always comfortable. But when the sun comes up, it’s always worth it. These incredible moments of undiluted experience, of simply being, are the ones I will never forget. Bring on New Zealand! Post script: part of the reason I got so cold was insufficient ground insulation. I’m already planning the next test snow camping trip, this time with a new thermal sleeping mat AND a closed cell foam mat…wish me luck!

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Gutsy Girls

Photo credit: Ben Thouard - In Perpetual Motion - Tahiti

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We have a long history of fierce inspiring ladies in the adventure world – from pioneers like aviator Nancy Bird Walton; to Brigitte Muir who, in 1997, was the first Australian woman to summit Mount Everest; to Terra Roam who more recently became the first women to walk solo unsupported around Australia – yet still so few adventure films featuring women. WORDS BY: JEMIMA ROBINSON

As the curator of adventure film tours for more than a decade, the welcome rise in films featuring women is noticeable. However, the reason for the change may be surprising. In my opinion, it’s not that there are more adventurous women pursuing their dreams, it’s that there are more creative women behind the camera telling their stories. Filmmakers are drawn to the people that inspire them – and often it’s the tales of other women that inspire them most. Lucky for us, three Australian female filmmakers are sharing their talent for storytelling and creating some incredibly inspiring adventure films.

Krystle Wright A DV E N T U R E P H OTO G R A P H E R

With over a decade in the industry as a global award winning adventure photographer, Wright has collected as many inspiring adventure gal pals as she has high profile gigs. The four minute adrenaline packed short film Where the Wild Things Play blew up the internet in 2017, achieved well over 3 million views online, and launched the inaugural Gutsy Girls Adventure Film Tour. Wright didn’t set out to make a female only film: “I like to make films that feature characters, stories, and ideas that I conjure up in my dreams. I've always been passionate about telling stories and don't wish to fall into those boundaries that I am nitpicking what sex, colour, age or background my subjects are. Instead, I believe we should celebrate great content because no matter what, a great story holds the power to resonate and engage.” Her more introspective film In Perpetual Motion, lit up the big screen around Australia at the 2018 Gutsy Girls Adventure Film Tour. In the visual portrayal of her own life, Wright reveals that being behind the lens isn’t always about exotic locations with your adventure besties, “Some of the challenges that come with adventure filmmaking is being able to work in extreme environments such as the freezing cold, soaring temperatures and in precarious positions such as hanging off the side of cliffs or swimming around in pounding surf.”

Photo credit: Ben Sturgulewski - In Perpetual Motion - New Zealand

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Like her work, De Colling is brave and real. The Melbourne based director has a talent for bringing a story to life and in the most visually stunning way possible. De Colling is driven by “...the constant possibility to meet new people, learn and explore. It's the desire to push creative boundaries and the challenge of weaving new perspectives and creativity.”

Cassie De Colling

As adventurous in her work life as she is in her downtime, De Colling has directed a ski-film in Kashmir, crafted a breathtaking freediving film in remote Western Australian waters, and is currently working on a feature documentary with Aboriginal artist Queen Regina Pilawuk Wilson, the first woman to walk off the Catholic church missionary and spur the 'homelands' movement.

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De Colling credits Sir David Attenborough for her passion for adventure filmmaking, “Attenborough sparked thoughts of all the wild and wonderful places in my imagination as a child. I knew that I would always work in adventure and natural history films. I was always passionate about the outdoors, and I wanted to see the world and really learn about different cultures and places. Being a filmmaker seemed to be the only way to have the life I dreamed of.” De Colling favours working on films that feature women, “...because as a gender women are underrepresented both on and off screen. [Only] 7% of directors are female and 25% of females play leading characters in films. I am personally inspired by women, they are role models for girls – and I had very few of them when I was growing up. I think it's important to create and share as much female-driven content as possible and bring more balance in the future.” Her stunning portrayal of champion female freediver Ai Futaki screened as part of the Ocean Film Festival World Tour at over 50 locations around Australia, New Zealand, China and beyond.

Photo credit: Andy Szollosi

Olivia Page

FILM: WINTER ON THE BLADE

Her commitment to her craft is evident in the film which doesn’t shy away from showing the obstacles involved in filming in one of the wettest winters on record. When asked about the challenges of adventure filmmaking Page responded: “Everything. Literally. Considerations like weight; you have to carry filming gear plus everything else that you need, camping gear, climbing gear, so forth; a 40 kg backpack can be pretty standard. Access to powering and charging electronic equipment; cameras, laptops, hard drives. You’ll be carrying a tonne of batteries; if you’re shooting in the cold they go flat faster. The weather, like rain, humidity and snow will cause lens fog and internal moisture in camera gear. Dry bags become your best friend. You’ll go hungry and use things like rice when you have nothing else to soak up internal moisture in lenses. Equipment is expensive – falling over, carrying gear in backpacks or just simply dropping and smashing gear are very real occurrences. Time limitations and weather windows dictate how much you can shoot. Sometimes it’s impossible to shoot because of the weather, or too dangerous – and all focus must go into the objective or adventure.” Page’s next project is an all-female climbing trip to New Zealand in early 2019. In addition to being an active member of the climbing team, Page aims to document the expedition and make a film to be released next year with the assistance of the Travel Play Live Women’s Adventure grant program.

With a foundation in photography, Page’s affinity for the aesthetics of the outdoor world is obvious. But her love of the outdoors and capturing images were put to the test when she signed up to help film the Tasmanian climbing epic Winter on the Blade which recently toured with Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour.

“Increasing the visual presence of females in the outdoors increases future female mentors: their encouragement, knowledge and inspiration then fuels the next generation of explorers, thinkers, adventurers and activists. I hope that one day we will speak of first ascents, not of first female ascents. But until then, we must create an environment that encourages females to dream bigger and push limits. Basically I would like to see, and be inspired by, more women kicking butt."

If you want to support more women in adventure films, we encourage you to support the women behind the lens who make these films possible. 049

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shifting PERSPECTIVES

in the shifting sands of Jordan

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

It’s my most ‘Frequently Asked Question’ as I’m fortunate to spend my life on the road in a messy work/play mash up. Unable to define myself I scribble ‘traveller’ in the occupation box of incoming passenger cards.

WORDS BY: CAROLINE PEMBERTON IMAGES BY: ATTA (VARIOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS)

’ve lived both the highs and lows of globetrotting from polar swimming in Antarctica to getting food poisoning on a plane returning from India. Yes full blown food poisoning. On. A. Plane. So what’s the best place I’ve been? It’s an impossible quandary given every corner of the globe offers up different perks depending on your preference. Luxury traveller? Overwater bungalow in Bora Bora. Adventurous Bucket List? Camp at Everest Base Camp. Want undiscovered? Head to Timor Leste. However, if you asked me ‘Who are the friendliest people in the world?’ I can answer that without skipping a beat... The Jordanians of the Middle East. You didn’t see that one coming did you? Hot and exceedingly dry, Jordan is a tiny desert land. It has no natural resources and is the second water-poorest country in the world. Ninety-five percent of the population are Muslim with a whopping one-third refugees (an estimated 1.4 million are from Syria and 2.1 million are from Palestine). It shares borders with Iraq, Syria, Israel and the partially recognised state of Palestine, as well as a maritime border with Egypt. With all the

chaos unfolding in the Middle East I would forgive you for thinking it doesn’t sound particularly safe or friendly. And yet… A travellers’ curiosity has always drawn me to the Middle East but the sceptic in me long held reservations. I pondered how safe it was, how it would be travelling as a woman in an Islamic country? Did I need to be covered head to toe to explore? I toyed with whether cycling knicks would be acceptable or too revealing (they’ve just launched the ‘Jordan Bike Trail’ a mixed track traversing the entire country and I was keen to do a leg), but I threw them aside and packed another scarf. The horrific news headlines I’d absorbed over the past decade streamed in rapid fire across my brain as I boarded the plane. I’ll be honest, I was nervous (and somewhat ignorant). I arrived late at night, tugging at my long skirt. At the border I was on the back foot but the official looked me dead in the eyes, broke into an enormous smile, and welcomed me to Jordan before he even took my passport. A lifetime of airports and that’s the first time I’ve been acknowledged as an actual person at passport control. In the taxi to the hotel my driver graciously

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invited me to dinner with his family. No, it was nothing suss. He had a daughter my age he thought I could be friends with. By the time I checked into the hotel at nearly 1 am, the gentleman on reception fell over himself to help me with my bags. He disappeared before I had time to tip him. Far from being insincere, this open-heartedness became standard and never stopped. A chorus of ‘welcomes’ followed me everywhere. I was an honoured guest merely because I was there. At first, Jordan’s mighty landscapes; scalded, parched and hazy with heat, repeatedly conjures up the question ‘Why?’ Why would people choose to settle here? Life isn’t easy, there’s no water, no arable land, hardly a skerrick of shade. Just sandstone mountains set in red sand deserts, at most a bristly scrub. Magnificent? Yes. A natural wonder to behold? Absolutely. An environment in which to permanently settle? Umm. Maybe if you want to live on Mars. Yet this inhospitable, incredible place is a prize, and forever has been. Full of history, it’s the cradle of the world’s largest religions, the seat of some of the oldest human settlements. As my guide Ayman says, “If you

pick up a stone in Jordan you can find a story. Immediately you’ll go back in time… you can walk through the history and the culture of Jordan by just grabbing any stone. Go on, you’ll sense it.” It’s true. Pick up a piece of this land and you could be holding history. That rock could be from a Crusader castle, a fragment from a mighty Roman column, a piece of an ancient Nabataean aqueduct system. This place has seen both the birth of great civilisations and the conquering of them. Empire after empire marked by the moving of sand and stone into temples, tombs and treasuries. But why? The question rings persistently in my head as we start a mountain bike ride to Petra. As any Egyptian Pharaoh, Roman Emperor, or present day world leader would happily point out, Jordan is a geographic gem that connects Asia, Africa and Europe. Hugely strategic, it’s been a conduit of trade and communication since the dawn of time. Connecting East and West, North and South, it still plays that role today. It’s been part of the dominions of the Sumerian, Babylonian, Assyrian and Mesopotamian Empires. For a time Pharonic Egypt held its power while the ingenious Nabataeans rose and built their empire. Petra, their centrepiece is recognised the world over. To fathom that was all BEFORE Jordan was engulfed by

the classical civilisations of Greece, Rome and Persia! The relics of which are probably sitting heavy in your hand. An archaeologists’ Aladdin’s Cave is an understatement. Perhaps that’s why, despite the odds being stacked against them (with a lack of resources and the geopolitics of the day), Jordanians are so accepting of travellers. Sitting smack bang in the heart of the trade route for millennia they are educated, open-minded and open-hearted. Their layered pedigree has given birth to a unique mentality. True world citizens influenced by everything they are open to anything. How obvious that they would be progressive! Nomads are honoured to the highest degree so the last thing you need to worry about is your safety. Your only concern is changing your perceptions of travel in the Middle East and how many cups of tea you can drink in a day. Take the Bedouin hospitality for example. Flushed and red-faced we were part way through our ride to Petra (yes I did deeply regret not bringing those bike shorts and yes you can wear whatever you like within basic decency and respect). Bouncing over desert rocks, ripping through dry valleys and clicking over the kilometres we came upon a hessian tent surrounded by a flock of goats and two camels standing as sentries. A man, Abu Sabba, appeared, his face etched with

desert wisdom. One could only hazard a guess at his age. He had a classic red and white keffiyeh scarf wrapped around his head and bright eyes lined with kohl to absorb the glaring sun. He invited us in. Seated on Persian carpets laid upon the sand he presented us with camel’s milk. As is custom, he drank first to show us the milk was good. We followed suit but sipped tentatively, it was sour and warm but not unlike cow’s milk, honestly better than I expected. The Indigenous Bedouin, whose lifestyle has not changed much since biblical times will always invite in a wanderer. No questions are asked for three days until finally on the fourth the host is allowed to ask your name and intention. The host is expected to boil their last rice and slaughter their only sheep to feed a stranger. Under their roof you are under their protection. They know firsthand the perils of desert travel, and in turn when they roam they count on the unquestioning hospitality of their kin. Refreshed, we were back on the bikes, heat rising fiercely from the ground, swirling about our sweaty, dust coated calves. Our final descent brought us to Petra. From afar it’s impossible to distinguish this 2000-year-old city, hidden within a maze of monolithic rocks rising from the desert floor. It is this same camouflage that kept it lost to the world for

If you pick up a stone in Jordan you can find a story. Immediately you’ll go back in time… you can walk through the history and the culture of Jordan by just grabbing any stone. Go on, you’ll sense it. Photo Credit: Hassen Salum

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

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hundreds of years until a Swiss man; Johann Ludwig Burckhart, arrived in 1812 and tricked the locals to let him into the lost city by pretending to be an Arab pilgrim. Today, the rose gold metropolis is well walked but still sane. Busy but not bursting. If it’s on your bucket list get there early in the morning and weave quietly through the narrow slot canyon named ‘The Siq’. Take your time to discover the kilometre of vertical sandstone sails, some reaching up nearly one hundred metres as they unfurl before you. At the end, you’ll step into a natural arena and be rewarded with that postcard view of Petra, the famed Treasury, but promise me you won’t stop there – keep exploring! The city is enormous, each tomb, room and ruin fascinating. What you see is still only the tip of the iceberg, with experts estimating that only fifteen percent has been excavated and a further eighty-five percent lies untouched beneath the sand. To get the most out of Petra, don’t miss the Monastery and the hike to view the Treasury from above. Definitely find a local guide to regale you with the actual history of the nomadic Natabeans as they are sure to capture your curiosity. Genius engineers and masters of secrecy, elusive to say the least. Their aqueduct system and architecture enabled them to literally devise a thriving oasis in the desert, thereby enabling the trade route and reaping the rich rewards for their efforts. To me, they are the most incognito, ingenious and underrated ancient civilisation there is.

Don’t be deceived, Jordan is not all history, there’s plenty of adventure too. With both a trans-country hiking trail and the Jordan Bike Trail connecting the length of the country you can sightsee and sweat all at once. There’s challenging rock climbing in the Martian-like land of the Wadi Rum, and excellent canyoning the country over. If you’ve had enough of the desert you can get refreshed at the Red Sea, diving and snorkelling with whale sharks. As a keen horsewoman, riding through the Jordanian desert was one of my ‘must dos’. We set off atop stunning Arabian horses, my stallion was strong and full of fire, yet manageable and attentive. Exhilarated, we cantered through the soft sands of dry riverbeds and galloped up onto a rocky outcrop that engulfed an entire landscape. The Bedouins set up a billy and boiled syrupy sweet tea spiced with wild sage. As I sipped my tea looking out to the horizon, my stallion nuzzled into me and I had a conscious moment of knowing that this was one of the best adventures of my life.

Seated on Persian carpets laid upon the sand he presented us with camel’s milk. As is custom, he drank first to show us the milk was good. We followed suit but sipped tentatively, it was sour and warm but not unlike cow’s milk, honestly better than I expected

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

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However, on our way back, quietly walking our sweat lathered steeds, a fellow rider came aside my horse. Agitated by another stallion his horse bucked violently, one hoof landing on my horse’s shoulder, the other connecting square with my ankle. The searing pain was overwhelming and I lost my foot from the stirrup. My horse reared and then straightened his neck as if to bolt. I anticipated him knowing that if he went, I’d come off in seconds with no traction in the stirrups. He seemed to sense my determination and danced on his feet, throwing his head before finally calming, snorting, and giving me the

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

HOW TO DO IT Travel with the amazing folk from Experience Jordan who can engineer any itinerary and are experts in adventure www.experiencejordan.com Jordanian adventures not to miss: • Hike a part of the Jordan Trail – or ride a leg of the Bike Trail

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

opportunity to slip down his side. My ankle swelled immediately to twice its size. I was in agony. Fortunately, after a quick trip to the hospital and a few x-rays later (always an experience in a foreign country), I was given the all clear. While miraculously nothing was broken (just some nasty soft tissue and ligament damage), I was disheartened to think that my injury would ruin my adventure. The next day, we were four-wheel driving through the Wadi Rum to climb the country’s tallest mountain before heading on to Aqaba. I worried I was missing out as I joined the team in the tray of the open-backed ute. However, not being able to walk meant that for half a day, while everyone else climbed, I sat quietly by the vehicles with our Bedouin drivers. Playing charades through our limited shared language, sharing tea and broken stories. It was such an authentic experience; one of real culture versus the ‘canned culture’ we so often get on the road as we hurry to ‘sightsee’ but fail to ‘people meet’.

herbs in the sweet black tea. My hosts broke into a spontaneous dance because no tea party is complete without the party part right? In Jordan, life is good, and therefore everyday moments like these should be celebrated with song! As you embark on your journeys, near and far, reflect on your assumptions and seek to change your stereotypes. I’m not saying throw all caution to the wind, but rather, allow your experience to dictate your beliefs, rather than your beliefs to curtail your experiences. And remember, sometimes our misadventures can lead to our greatest moments.

Photo Credit: Hassen Salum

Sitting with my newfound friends, I had one of the best, most wholesome travel experiences of my life. Prior to my trip, if someone had asked me whether a white woman sitting alone with two strangers in the deserts of the Middle East was a good idea, I would have warned against it. But here I was, sitting in the sand laughing with these kind hearted souls who treated a stranger like family, realising my fears were unfounded and my stereotypes misplaced. I felt hugely apologetic for my past judgement. The billy boiled and we dropped more wild

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• Float in the Dead Sea – the world’s largest mineral spa and lowest point in the world • Smoke Hubby Bubbly (Water pipe flavoured tabacco or Sheesha) with the Bedouin and sleep under the stars at one of their camps • Eat Mansaf – the delicious national dish comprised of slow cooked lamb in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt and rice • Explore the Ancient Red Rose City of Petra including The Monastery and candlelit Petra by Night • Visit the Burdah Rock Bridge in Wadi Rum (also known as the Valley of the Moon)

Runner Already a

WORDS BY: TA LISA HIRON

Since moving from Queensland to Tasmania three years ago, I have delighted at the amazing hikes all over this incredible state. From the in-town trails on Mt Wellington, through to 10-hour days spent hiking to Cape Piller or the Walls of Jerusalem. But running? That is new.

o date, I had only attempted small bursts of running amidst my walking. But, following a hiking trip to Everest Base Camp, I took the extra level of fitness I’d gained and ran my first 5 km – so damn proud.

On a recent trip to the mountain, I decided to mix the two: I wanted a taste of trail running. I was on the mountain alone – I usually hike as a pair – and the track suddenly seemed a lot longer than planned. My casual Sunday afternoon introductory trail run, that I had relished to tackle in solidarity, suddenly left me panicked that I wouldn't reach my car before dark. So, I pushed myself to run beyond my limits. I got dizzy and anxious until I was feeling ill. Moments from throwing up, I managed to find some common sense and sit myself down.

twenty-minutes to my car parked at The Springs. I smiled a big grin to myself - I was in perfect timing. As I began the last section, I pictured my brain in the back seat of a car, and placed this space just behind my head, watching my body. I managed big long stretches of running on this last section, taking the time down to forty-five minutes.

Following a hiking trip to Everest Base Camp, I took the extra level of fitness I’d gained and ran my first 5 km – so damn proud.

Amongst the forest, on a mossy rock, I listened to the trickling water and intellectualised that my mind and body were competing for top spot instead of working together. I told my brain how amazing it was, but this was the time to take a back seat and let my body do what it instinctively knows what to do. When I caught my breath, I got up, and started off with nice big strides straight up the steep sections of the Myrtle Gully Track. As I reached Junction Cabin, I saw the sign noting only one hour and

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In the slower, steady, running strides that neared me to my goal, I found ease in recognising when to let my head lead, and when to silence the thinking and trust my body. I created a silence within, so my body could hear itself and adjust accordingly. As my confidence came running back to me, I took big strides and zoomed around the corners – leaning in like you would on a bike – with the cold mountain air kissing my cheeks. As the trees gave way to the clearing of The Springs I found my little Corolla waiting to take me home. I realised that there was no point ‘trying’ to be a runner. I already was.

Deep inside we all know what needs to happen, but so often we panic, we doubt, and our head gets so noisy we cannot hear the simple guiding words from within: We already are what we desire to be. We are our best friend and our worst enemy, and we need to create the space for friendship, so a war doesn't take over. We are best served by cultivating healthy adventures of the mind and body in this magnificent life. www.tahiron.com

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Scares You

W H AT

MOST? WORDS BY: KEMI NEKVAPIL

One of the many reasons people come for coaching is that they want to change ‘something’ about how they are living life. From relationships, to career, to wellbeing, to accomplishing goals, to letting go of limiting beliefs.

ut even though we may want change, it does not mean that we are not scared of change.

I was speaking with a client recently about her apprehension to ‘show herself’ as she called it. She is a woman who has left the corporate world to pursue her dream of becoming a freelance consultant. She had left a job she was very successful in, but she wanted a change. She wanted more, and she felt being her own boss was the way to grow as a person – offering her own services excited her. She had everything in order. Her business cards, her website, her first social posts, she was ready in every practical way, but she was stalling when it came to making her website live. Her fear of the change she had worked for was apparent, and she was apprehensive about taking the next action. I asked her about this: “How will anyone know what you are doing if you don’t share what you are doing?” She laughed. “I’m scared”, she replied.

“What was the biggest change you have gone through in your life?”, I enquired. “Moving from Germany and setting up life here, as a single woman with no connections.” “That is an immense change; what inner qualities did you harness to get through that change?”, I asked. She took a moment. “I had faith, perseverance and connection. I kept connecting with people. Anywhere I was; at the local shop, the post office, the swimming pool. I threw myself into making my relocation work. I was terribly focused.” “So, you persevere, you are focused and you make connections with people; you also have faith. Would a woman who possesses these qualities make her website live?”, I queried. “100 percent”, she chuckled. My next question was simple: “So, when are you going to show yourself to the world?” When we are about to take on anything new, we have fear. We want change, and yet it petrifies us at the same time. Yet we have all been through change before, and we harnessed aspects of ourselves to navigate and embrace the change.

“Of course you are scared; this is what change feels like, but do you know exactly what you are scared of?”, I asked. “This seems real now. As soon as the website goes live, I am out there. I can fail. I can be judged.”

Being able to get clear on exactly what you are scared of is the first step to shifting the fear. The next step is remembering how you have navigated change before, because cultivating self-awareness about how you deal with change will transform your life. www.keminekvapil.com

We spoke about judgement: that she will be judged, that that’s what humans do to each other, but that she needed to be discerning about the people she listened to and the judgements she took on.

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Photo Credit: Prue Aja Steedman

Always THERE'S

CRITICS AT OUR MOST VULNERABLE

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WORDS BY: LUCY BARNARD IMAGES BY: LUCY BARNARD & ANDREA TORSELLI

In one of the world’s most inhospitable National Parks, I fought panic as I lost sight of my transport, and with it, the final opportunity to change my mind on what I had decided to do.

So began my attempt to become the first woman to walk the length of the world.

among them – I marvelled at how life must be for this calibre of adventurers.

Starting among an archipelago at the bottom of Argentina I faced a 10-day traverse towards a meeting point. From there, I would continue for four days on a sea kayak along a route so treacherous I had to hire a safety team to chaperone me across.

They mused me and asked if I was hiking in the area. When I explained what I was doing they spoke among themselves in another language. They assumed I wouldn’t understand them: She’s naive. She’ll be destroyed by the time she reaches El Chalten.

Once on the mainland, the plan was to continue the walk for 3-5 years until I reached the top of the world.

They left soon after, and when my safety team arrived a few days later I was too worried about the closing weather window for second thoughts. I suited up and headed out along the first of the islands.

Things quickly went bad. Military workers had moved into one area, their explosives forcing me to change my route. Then, I lost a week’s food supply due to a flooded river crossing. While on rations, I received a satellite message from the safety team: they, along with the next food drop, were running a week late. I began to starve. By the time I reached the meeting point I was skeletal. I approached the bay and spotted a dirt road leading towards a farm house. The kind owner took me in and began to rebuild my confidence. While I waited for the safety boat, a kayak exploration team pulled in after failing to reach their mark. I was in awe! With sponsored patches on their jackets – National Geographic and Red Bull TV

One year on, I’m more than 4000 km beyond that lonely farm at the bottom of the world. People continue to ask me why I am walking – and my answer isn’t particularly compelling. I’m doing it because it’s who I am. I am neither confident or uncertain about finishing. It doesn’t worry me because if I hadn’t started, I wouldn’t have experienced the stories that are now bound to me for eternity. That alone is enough. There will always be someone who wants to critique you for who you are. Rather than listening, spend your time with people who support you. Have the courage to be who you want to be. In the end, that’s all you’ll have.

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In February 2017, I began a journey to become the first woman to walk the length of the world. It’s a 30,000 km journey from the bottom of Argentina to the top of Alaska. It will take between 3 to 5 years to complete and when I do, I’ll be the first woman and one of only a handful to ever have completed it. Proudly supported by: The North Face, Sea to Summit, Australian Geographic, Phase Zero Australia, Elemental Projects, XTM Performance, Goal Zero, Art Spectrum, Fyshwick Self Storage, Armaskin. www.tanglesandtail.com

Australian

Ninja

OLIVIA VIVIAN R E V E A L S W H A T I T T A K E S T O B E A W A R R I O R

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Last month, former Olympic gymnast Olivia Vivian made history by becoming the first female to make it through to the grand final of Channel 9's Australian Ninja Warrior - wowing audiences with an impressive back flip up the warped wall to secure her place. We caught up with the bubbly 29-year-old from Perth, Western Australia to chat about what helps her to succeed.

WORDS BY: TPL & OLIVIA VIVIAN IMAGE BY: OLIVIA VIVIAN

hat was going on in your head when you flipped upside down on the warped wall and became the first female to reach the finals of Channel 9's Australian Ninja Warrior? Obviously, after failing the warped wall in season one, all I wanted to do was conquer it. But my first priority was actually getting there. So, I focused in on every obstacle one at a time and tried not to get ahead of myself. But the moment I got to the wall and stared down – or rather up – I knew I had the capability to do it. The instant I grabbed the top of that obstacle I swear fireworks went off in my heart, even before I had hit the buzzer. I was so proud of all the hard work that went into achieving that moment, and am so grateful for my entire Ninja community who helped me to get there. You made the competition all look so easy. Did you have to work extra hard on any of the obstacles? The third obstacle always seems to be about balance and agility. It’s honestly the scariest one for me as I tend to have concrete feet and don’t move too quickly. I tried training balance by doing agility ladders and some stairs to build leg power, but if I’m completely honest, no amount of training could prepare my heart for the attack it gets each time I reach that obstacle!

I also look up to all the strong positive women around me because smiles are infectious. A confident and uplifting attitude can make such a difference in today’s fast paced world. Alongside your physical prowess, what personal attributes have helped you to achieve so much? Self-belief is your greatest tool; then back it up with a lot of hard work. We can’t sit back and wish for things to come our way. Good things come to those who go out and get them. I also believe in humour, laughter and smiling. Life is precious, so remember to stop every now and then to feel your feet and enjoy the moment.

Good things come not to those who wait – but to the ones that go out and get them.

Given your love for action, what are you working on right now? After Channel 9's Australian Ninja Warrior aired, I’ve been inundated with school, club and business appearance requests. I try to juggle all of those alongside working in my café and training. I feel honoured and humbled that so many people recognise me from the show and tell me that I’ve inspired them, so I am focused on giving back as much as I can. Over the next few months I’ll be training for upcoming National Ninja competitions, and then start preparations for season three.

Finally, as a result of your athletic experiences, what advice do you have for aspiring youngsters? If I was to pass on advice to other young ones it would be a message of hard work and patience through the tough times. I made it to the Olympic Games as a gymnast by being resilient and never giving up. I wasn’t always the most talented, but I showed up to every single training session, regardless of whether or not I’d had a bad day the day before.

OLIVIA VIVIAN

Do you have any advice for women or girls who may be thinking about joining traditionally male dominated sports like Ninja? Traditional is out the window now. Women are totally capable of participating in sports like Ninja. It’s just up to us to BELIEVE we can do it, and start training like we can. It’s only impossible until it’s done, but it takes commitment to get it done.

www.oliviavivian.com.au

As a professional athlete and all-round awesome person, countless people look up to you for motivation. Do you have any role models of your own? I have several because I love finding strength and inspiration from so many people. I was such a selfish brat growing up – honestly, my family can back me up on that! But after losing my dad when I was 23-years-old, it changed my perspective and outlook on life. I now no longer sweat the small stuff and try to be the best version of myself that I can. My college gymnastics coach was a huge inspiration to me. She took believing in oneself to a whole new level. She taught me the importance of self-belief and backing yourself 100 percent, not just settling for a level of semi-belief or ‘sort of’.

Photographer Iain Gillespie

solo lazing Bthe trail

WOR D S & I M AG E S BY : M IC H E L L E RYA N

When I was a child, I’d never imagined that as an adult I’d be hiking in so many places throughout the world. To be honest, I don’t quite remember what it was I had imagined my life to be. I do remember always feeling I wanted to be free and travel the world – but not necessarily by walking it. Life always gives you surprises and pathways, and for me that is the most exciting thing; exploring all that appears in front of you and discovering the hidden surprises. Walking has always been a great way to explore and as long as mankind has been around we have done exactly that. We walked to discover, we walked to get from one place to another, but with the invention of powered vehicles, not many people walk like we used to. In recent years I have noticed more and more people – especially women – are going back to walking to explore; discovering not just the nature around us, but also themselves.

women out there living great adventurous lives including many solo female hikers that travel all over the world. For the most part, they are more than ok and survive to live another adventure.

I want other women out there to know that even though we do live in a crazy world, we also live in an amazing world.

In this world of instant news, there is plenty of bad, scary and terrifying reports: murders, accidents, rapes, people being robbed. But what they don’t report are all the good things, it just not as news-worthy. There are many

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I started hiking when I was younger through Girl Guides, Duke of Edinburgh but as I became an adult I married, had children and my priorities changed. As my kids grew, I started thinking more about me and my own interests which led me back to my hiking life. I realised that there was a whole world out there that I was missing out on.

First, I headed out on local trails, but before too long this left me wanting more. I thought about travelling overseas and interstate to discover their trails. Like most people, specifically women, I would buddy up with another hiker to do this. I think we are programmed to feel like we

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need to do that to protect our safety as women. Eventually I realised that there was no reason why I could not attempt it on my own. I started to try local day walks by myself which led to consecutive days camping out. Then that led to a 645 km trek overseas and a 212 km hike interstate on my own. There’s been no stopping me since then. Last year I completed a 1000 km hike in the Western Australian bush on the world famous Bibbulmun Track. In addition to doing solos, I have been trekking in Europe on many distance trails alongside my husband – who had been watching my hiking life with great interest and decided he needed to get a part of this amazing world. We have hiked together through Italy, Switzerland, France, United Kingdom, Scotland, Norway, Austria, and Slovenia. I have also hiked through Alaska with a friend – now that was a trip to remember! I want other women out there to know that even though we do live in a crazy world, we also live in an amazing world. This is a world wanting to be explored and there is no better way to do that than by getting out there and walking it. I would like to share with you a piece I wrote whilst on my Bibbulmun Track walk. At the time I was in the middle of the journey and it had been six days since contact with the outside world. I am at one…... My heart slows down My breathing becomes a relaxed rhythmic flow I feel at ease, relaxed at one This might be where you would say I’m in the middle of nowhere But really, I am on a major highway of busyness (calm) I am lost, I am found I am alone but surrounded by life That fills my heart with joy I am one…... This is life…... This is living…… This is breathing…… This is me…….at one

TIPS HIKE SOLO F O R WO M E N W H O WA N T T O

1 Do your research. Choose the trail you would like to hike and RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH. I can’t emphasise this enough as I see many people on a trail that haven’t done their research. No excuse these days as the resources are at our finger tips. 2 Ask the important questions. How long is the trail? How difficult is the trail? What is the terrain like? Where is it? What is the best time of the year to hike it?... and so on. 3 Be realistic in what YOU can

achieve. Don’t choose a trail that would be too difficult for you. Be completely honest with yourself in what YOUR capabilities are: endurance levels, fitness, and skill set. Never put yourself in a high-risk situation or set yourself up to not make it. 4 Train and get in shape. One of the most common reasons for people not succeeding on a trail is because they haven’t conditioned their body to cope with the day in day out physical workout you will be experiencing. I see people having to leave their hike early because they have injuries that could have often been prevented if they had prepared their body properly. Don’t be that person. 5 Learn basic first-aid skills. You really need to know how to help yourself in time of need. If something should go wrong, like a twisted ankle, snake bite or broken bone, then you are your best hope. Ensure you have a full first-aid kit in your pack and know what to do with it. Knowledge is power, and it could be the difference in life or death if something was to go seriously wrong. If you are not sure, sign up for a first-aid course in your local area.

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6 Carry a Personal Location Beacon. Too many people still wander out on hikes in the bush and don’t have a PLB. One of these could save your life! They are not expensive and can be hired. If you choose to go very remote, also consider using a satellite phone. 7 Carry identification. I always carry an ID card with all my necessary information so if I have a situation and am in shock it’s easier to hand that over. 8 Employ S.T.O.P at times of need. This means S – stop, T – think, O – observe, P – plan. If a situation arises, for example you think you may be lost, then stay calm and remember S.T.O.P. 9 Be focused and aware. I always stress you should, especially if on your own, be present in your journey. Always be aware of your surroundings, this could be a great help in any emergency or even to just prevent you losing your way. Keep an ear out; don’t put your headphones in both ears if listening to music. I tend to not listen to my music when hiking as it distracts me from my surroundings. 10 Meet strangers on the trail. When you come across another hiker acknowledge them. Let them know you are aware of their presence by a simple ‘Hi’ or nod of the head. 11 Always tell people where you are. Make sure you let a loved one know where you are going, when you will return, and contact them when are safely back. DON’T flash it over social media as you do not want the wrong people to know where you are. 12 Carry the right amount of food

and water. I always carry the amount I need for the time I’m on a trail plus a little more to be sure. Learn from others. Spend time reading other peoples experiences from their blogs. Often people are writing these accounts as they go so their stories are less likely to be glossed over than if it is written once they return. 13 Use your common sense and HAVE FUN!

MOUNTAIN

SAFETY In Austria's GNARLY TERRAIN

WORDS BY: JENNIFER ENNION IMAGES BY: CHRISTOPHER HARRISON

Slicing across a mountain face laden with powder I glide between pines, moving further from the main trail. A wide, steep slope falls away from beneath my board. From somewhere, behind the trees or up above, the excited shouts of skiers can be heard. Aside from that, there’s the muffled silence synonymous with secret stashes of ski-resort snow we all seek out. I’m not on an average hill. I’m at famous St. Anton am Arlberg, in Austria, staring down an advanced run covered in fresh snow – and I’m the only woman, the odd one out in a cool crew of blokes. This is made all the more obvious by the fact I’m also the only snowboarder. I’m acutely conscious of not holding anyone up but I needn’t worry.

y phone reads 6:20am when I wake at Hotel Schwarzer Adler, built in the 1500s in the pedestrian village of St. Anton, 100 km west of Innsbruck. I pull back the curtains in my traditional wood-panelled room. Staring into the darkness, I grin widely as I make out the fresh flakes falling thickly in the golden glow of street lamps. Ullr, the “god of snow”, hasn’t let up since my arrival from Lech to St. Anton 24 hours ago. By breakfast time, news that 70 centimetres of powder is waiting is music to my beanie-ensconced ears. I’m itching to go, but lifts don’t start turning until 8:45am, so I gorge on hearty porridge and eggs in preparation for the energy-sapping day ahead. Then it’s time to layer up and head into the below zero temps – and that wonderful, relentless snow shower. We meet instructor Maris beside the main gondola. He looks seasoned, with the kind of tan you only get in the mountains and an all-knowing eagerness for what lies ahead.

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In anticipation of the conditions, I swap my set-up for a longer, wider powder board. It delays me from getting on the lifts but means I’ll have the best gear to tackle the fresh snow and steep terrain. Next, I get kitted out in an emergency avalanche beacon and a pack with a shovel, in case things go awry. It’s the first time I’ve carried avalanche gear and it’s reassuring knowing that I have it. Austrians are risk averse, which is great for gung-ho Aussies unaccustomed to the steep pitch and snow depth here. The gear gives me and my dude-crew a healthy fear of, and respect for, the Arlberg. We’re not in Kansas anymore, so to speak. After a couple of blue-bird days in neighbouring Lech/Zurs, where the scenery and terrain are dramatic, wild and sprawling, the conditions have changed drastically. Our powder-skiing ability is about to be tested. And so it is that we find ourselves staring down walls of deep snow, tree-lined trails and bowls of meringue-like goodness. It’s epic and we barely make a dent in the more than 300 kilometres of ski trails on offer.

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With thighs and glutes burning, I’m happy to start “après” with an afternoon tea date with one of Austria’s leading female snowboarders. I sit in the lounge room of Barbara Mossmer’s cosy lodge, Alkira, sipping English Breakfast and nibbling biscuits while discussing the very real danger of avalanches and how quickly weather changes in Central Europe. As the first female in Austria to gain full certification in snowboard instructing, in 1996, and having been in countless search and rescue missions, Barbara knows her stuff. “A lot of people think ‘yeah, I’ve got my safety pack, I’ve got my beeps’, but they don’t even know how to use it,” Barbara says, confounded. (*Beeps refers to an emergency beacon.) “We’ve had massive avalanches in this area…” she continues. “It’s a lot of common sense but, in the end, even people who know the mountain, who are out there all the time, they’re at risk.” The reality is there is massive avalanche potential in St. Anton, as there is in many Northern Hemisphere ski resorts. As

a result, visitors are prohibited from venturing off-piste (where it’s not groomed) without an avi kit, even if that off-piste terrain is considered “in bounds”. This is because Arlberg resorts don’t have any boundaries telling you to stay in confined areas of a resort, like there are in Australia. It’s a refreshing discovery and one that leaves the responsibility of safety in the hands of the skier. “You can’t rope off that much area, it’s just impossible,” Barbara says. It’s one of the first big differences I notice when I arrive; fences don’t exist. If you ski away from the lifts and groomed trails (i.e. off-piste and in the side- and backcountry) you risk more than your lift pass. This is something our posse takes seriously, and we stick closely to Maris. Although a couple of us have skied in Europe previously, there’s no denying that we’ve earned our ski stripes on the smaller, hard-packed slopes of Australia, where we’re used to zipping through gum trees and riding comparatively stable terrain (although avalanches do occur). Here, we have to adjust not only our riding styles to tackle the powder but also our attitudes when it comes to potential hazards. We become more conscious riders and think a little harder about the lines we take.

It’s the first time I’ve carried avalanche gear and it’s reassuring knowing that I have it.

Barbara, who started St. Anton’s snowboarding school and spent 27 seasons instructing, has “lost quite a few friends due to avalanches”.

“So, I always say, if people had as much respect for the mountains as they do for the oceans…” her voice trails off and we sit for a moment in silent agreeance. Skiers and boarders who ride off-piste generally understand the risks, and, truth be told, it’s this challenging terrain (and the party lifestyle) that lures so many Australians to this corner of Austria. Over the past few years, the Australian ski scene has been changing its focus, with more Aussies going further afield, with side-country and split-boarding (like ski touring for snowboarders) growing in popularity. With this in mind, Barbara, who spent 12 seasons instructing in Victoria’s Mt. Buller, recommends tourists to the Arlberg check out the safety camps being offered by St. Anton sports shops and sign up for training with the ski school. “The thing is a lot of people are actually kitted out really well,” she says as we finish our cuppas and snow continues to tap on the lodge windows. “They’ve got the top gear,” she says, “but they don’t know how to use it; they don’t practise.” And it’s that last word that rings in my ears the next morning as I pull the straps of my avi pack over my shoulders and check my beacon is switched on. Practice is key for staying safe and enjoying the deep powder the Arlberg is famous for. And it’s this powder-skiing “practice” that’s the perfect excuse to keep coming back.

MOUNTAIN

SAFETY

Q&A

In Austria's GNARLY TERRAIN

with Jennifer Ennion Jennifer Ennion is the founder of The Wild Ones Media, an online magazine for “people who play outdoors”. We catch up with her to talk all things adventure travel. Jen, you’re currently travelling around the coastline of Australia with your family and a 36-year-old caravan. What’s that been like? It’s wonderful and challenging and exciting all at the same time. You don’t realise just how big Australia is until you spend days crossing the Nullarbor and 4WDing down dirt tracks in places like Kakadu. We have a beautiful, varied landscape and sometimes it’s overwhelming and isn’t friendly to our vintage caravan, but it’s been a lot of fun exploring national parks and remote beaches. I highly recommend it. You recently launched www.thewildonesmedia. com so you could tell the stories from your Australia trip but also stories from around the world. What was your motivation for the site? I started The Wild Ones because there’s a big gap in the adventure media landscape in Australia, despite the fact the adventure travel industry is growing. More Australians, and more women especially, are wanting to get outdoors and challenge themselves, and, just like Travel Play Live, I want to encourage them to do so. I think it’s important for all of us to reconnect with nature and to push personal and industry boundaries.

Travel there

The Arlberg is known as the “cradle of alpine skiing” due to it being the epicentre of the downhill ski technique. The five villages that make up the Arlberg are Lech, Zurs, St. Anton, St. Christoph and Stuben. Skiers will love the wide, groomed trails of Lech and Zurs, snowboarders will have a hoot in the off-piste in St. Anton, and romantics will fall in love with quaint St. Christoph and Stuben. You don’t have to go off-piste to have an unbelievable ski experience in the Arlberg. The White Ring is a whopping 22-kilometre trail that snakes through the mountains. On a bright blue day, the views from the route are phenomenal and will distract you from your technique. If you’ve got a posse of women to ride with, check out St. Anton’s “Ladies First!” feel-good weeks in January, during which female skiers receive discounts on lodging, ski passes, meals and shopping. For more about the Arlberg region, visit en.arlberg.com and austria.info/ skiing. Other handy websites include skistanton.com/en, alkira.at/en and schwarzeradler.com/en/. Disclaimer: The writer travelled as a guest of Austrian National Tourist Office

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You’ve been a journalist for more than a decade. What crazy assignments have you been on? I’ve had some pretty cool work trips overseas, including one to sub-Arctic Canada where I got to swim in a dry suit with beluga whales. It was freezing but I couldn’t stop smiling afterwards. I’ve also hiked to Everest Base Camp in Nepal, which is a career highlight, and slept on the banks of the Okavango Delta – not far from hippos – in Botswana. Soon I’ll be heading to Cape York, the tip of Australia, so that’s sure to be a bit crazy. Finally, what do you say to women who want to start hiking or snowboarding or just get outdoors more but don’t know where to start? You really just need to believe in yourself – in your physical ability and your mental capacity to deal with challenging situations – and then take that first step, literally. Convince a sibling or friend to join you on a few morning excursions close to home, maybe a local hiking trail, and take it from there. If you dig a little, you’ll soon discover there are ski resorts that offer women’s camps and plenty of similar workshops and special days to encourage like-minded people to live a more active life.

POSITIVE CHOICES By Nature M O T H E R

WORDS BY:

TPL & JOCELYN EVANS IMAGES BY: NICK COVELLI

Right Foot Forward WA is a small outdoor expedition business dedicated to empowering youthat-risk. We caught up with founder, and outdoor education specialist Jocelyn Evans to learn more about how she helps young people build confidence and recognize their own potential.

The program is designed to enable young people to explore what it means to respect and be responsible for themselves, others and the environment. The focus is on building self-esteem, independence, resilience, confidence, self-efficacy, leadership and decision-making skills.

hat is it all about? The idea was borne from my passion and belief in the positive outcomes adventure-based learning offers, and a desire to see

all young people have an opportunity to access such an experience.

Experienced instructors are always on hand to provide guidance and ensure young people are safe and supported.

The initiative is aimed at young people aged 11-25 years who are largely disengaged from school. The core program involves 5-10 days hiking and camping in the South West region of Western Australia. Each day, participants hike to a new camp and are responsible for all the set up and meal preparation. Other activities vary depending on the group, but can include caving, abseiling, rock climbing, mountain biking, and Aboriginal culture sessions.

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Why use an expedition-based camp program? The semi-wilderness setting removes young people from urban distractions and simplifies their options; helping them gain insight into their core values and accept responsibility for their choices. All the stimulation of everyday life for young people are removed (including technology), allowing them time to focus on themselves and their peers, and learn how to be present.

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chats and evening debriefs. Without being prompted, the young people say the most insightful things about perseverance, selfconfidence, and belief in themselves that they can actually do things.

An expedition sets up a regular routine and lends itself to empowering young people to take charge of their own experience. The young people are supported to make many of the decisions about the way the expedition is managed; offering them a chance for personal growth.

Among the special moments is when the young people show gratitude to one another. One time when we were abseiling, the young people demonstrated such incredible support and compassion for others who were really challenged by heights. One of the boys said how much he had been inspired by those that had attempted the big abseil, because he himself couldn't overcome his fear. As a result, some of the other young people realised the impact that their attitude and behavior have on the experiences of others.

the young people say the most insightful things about perseverance, self-confidence, and belief in themselves that they can actually do things.

How does it work? Young people are taught how to set up a safe and comfortable campsite including hygiene and cooking systems, self-care and looking after the whole team. They also learn map reading and navigation skills, camp cooking, bush craft and minimal impact camping techniques.

In pairs or threes, participants lead the group for half to a full day. This helps to develop the young person’s communication, planning, time management and decision-making skills.

the group. It’s a real privilege to share in the growth and positive change that occurs in the young people who participate. It’s why I am so passionate about the work that I do. www.rightfootforwardwa.com.au

Everyone faces at least one challenge over the course of the program. Be it physical, mental, emotional or social. Young people are encouraged to persevere, develop resilience, and explore appropriate behaviours and attitudes that will help them to manage challenging situations in the future. What do you love most about the work that you do? Many of the kids I see come from home environments that do little to nurture and support them. My hope is, that as a result of their experience on camp they are better equipped to make some positive choices in life. For some young people the camp is as much about having a break from destructive environments as it is about learning new skills. The opportunity to simply be in a space where they are valued, trusted, and empowered for a week can reboot their energy levels and help them to cope better when they return home. What I love most is what I hear from the young people in the daily

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At the end of the day, I often give the delegated youth leaders some motivational stories to look through and chose one to read aloud if they wish. Sometimes young people are initially hesitant to read in front of others, but often by the last night it’s great to see many of those who have trouble with reading and writing attempting to read part of the story to

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BIO Jocelyn Evans is a qualified and experienced outdoor education guru. She has led group adventures in various locations across Australia, as well as internationally. Jocelyn has a passion for the natural environment and loves getting amongst it any way she can. When she isn’t hiking, biking, or immersed in new places, she is exploring the value of bush adventure therapy, practicing AUSLAN, or delivering a therapeutic drumming workshop.

adventure is an attitude. An innate wanderlust spirit and curiosity that inspires you to explore our wild planet, be outside and enjoy life whatever that means for you. C A R O L I N E

P E M B E R T O N

(Miss Adventure)

Finalist: Bianca Aniceto #happyplacetpl

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The

ONLY WAY

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Q&A Angie Scarth-Johnson CONTINUES HER CLIMB TO THE TOP

WORDS BY: TPL & ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON IMAGES BY: BERNARDO GIMENEZ

At just 14 years of age Angie Scarth-Johnson is considered one of Australia’s best female climbers. The North Face Athlete is well regarded in the climbing community for her gutsy determination, natural talent, and awe-inspiring strength. We have been keeping an eye on Angie’s progress since we chatted to her late last year, and continue to be inspired by her dizzying array of achievements. First and foremost, Angie is an outdoor climber. Predominantly self taught, Angie became the youngest person ever to send a grade (31) at Red River Gorge, USA at 9 years of age. The following year, she continued to dominate by becoming the youngest person to send a grade (32/33) in Rodellar, Spain.

When I have a climbing project on, or I am on a climbing trip, I am at the peak of my motivation. I usually don’t need my mum to yell at me to get up or to set the dogs free to jump on me to wake me – I am up and ready to go, sometimes so early that the sun isn’t even up.

At age 12, Angie became one of only two Australian females to send a grade (34), also at Red River Gorge, USA. Only one female in the world has achieved a confirmed grade (36) and very recently a grade (37). Most elite professional female climbers climb between grades (33-35) – which provides some insight into how remarkable Angie is as a climber.

That excitement and obsession to complete my climbing challenge takes over and nothing else matters. This may sound crazy to many people and I don’t completely understand it myself, but all I know is that it is the feeling of accomplishing a goal in something that I love doing that makes it all worth it.

It’s no surprise then that Angie has also made a name for herself in competition climbing. She has won the Australian national title for her age group since she was seven and was recently selected to compete internationally in The World Youth Competitions. She is hoping to work and train towards the Oceania Olympic qualifying competition in early 2020, in which one female and one male will be selected from the Oceania region to compete in Tokyo 2020. This will make Angie the youngest Australian eligible for selection at just 15 years of age (she will be turning 16 that year). As an outdoor climber, the competition will be a huge undertaking and challenge for Angie. She will need to be proficient at three disciplines: speed, lead and bouldering, which is different from outdoor climbing where people often specialise in one or two, mainly lead and bouldering, never speed.

When you do succeed, and accomplish something that may have felt impossible for you there is no other feeling like it in the entire world. It’s almost impossible to explain this feeling; it’s like you are truly alive!

I was very lucky to have found a physical activity that encouraged a love for adventure and an outdoor life style at such an early age. I see being active as essential to my life, like eating or drinking water.

Angie took a few moments out from training on her latest project to tell us about what drives her to be at the top of her game. There are plenty of early starts in climbing. What motivates you to get out of bed each morning? Generally, my motivation comes from knowing that I have an amazing life ahead, one which includes everyday goals and challenges like training, school work or just hanging out with friends.

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You seem to be a natural at this sport. Has being active always been important to you? I have been very active since a young age and now it is simply part of who I am. Without it I would go insane. Every day, I am either climbing rocks, bushwalking with dad, bike riding with mum or even just taking my dogs for a walk around the street. It doesn’t have to be hard or planned; this is what makes it fun and encourages me to do it again and again.

The routes you tackle are incredibly tough and must be exhausting. How do you keep yourself going? It’s hard to mentally pick yourself up and keep going when you feel as though everything in the world is preventing you from achieving your goal. But I learned from an early age that great success can only be achieved by failing a few times. Those who can learn from failure – rather than give up – are the only ones who can truly reach their final goal. When you do succeed, and accomplish something that may have felt impossible for you there is no other feeling like it in the entire world. It’s almost impossible to explain this feeling; it’s like you are truly alive!

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I learned from an early age that great success can only be achieved by falling a few times.

You seem pretty fearless on the rock. Is there anything outside your comfort zone that you’d like to try? Rock climbing is only the start of many adventures and challenges that I hope to have. There are so many things I’d love to try that fall out of my comfort zone: ice-climbing and mountaineering really scare me, but I would absolutely love to give it a go. I would love to do some big wall stuff, maybe at Yosemite, sleeping on a portaledge (a hanging tent) is a dream of mine. But I am also keen to do things that don’t include rock like paragliding, skiing and surfing. Next month I am going on an amazing adventure to do something that I have always wanted to do. I am headed to a fairly isolated Pacific Island call Eua, off the main Island of Tonga to learn how to find and develop new climbing routes. While it is still rock climbing, it will be a challenge and certainly outside my comfort zone. The island has so much awesome rock and has the potential be a future destination for many Australian and New Zealand climbers. Experiences like this are what keep me excited about always trying new things and pushing the boundaries for young women. While trying something new and out of my comfort zone is scary in so many ways, not knowing what lays ahead is what makes the adventure more interesting and worthwhile. It is incredible to look at what you have already accomplished. What has been one of your proudest moments? I’m proud of all my adventures but one of my biggest achievements was the 8c+ (34) that I sent in America. It was the hardest I have ever mentally and physically pushed myself. Both the weather and time were against me and I was exhausted. I had no skin on my fingers and I was only 12 years old. I was so incredibly proud that I didn’t give up. All the blood sweat and tears, literally, that I put into that climb paid off, and I achieved something that only one other person of that age had ever achieved. I will never forget that amazing feeling.

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ANGIE MOVES MOUNTAINS

ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON, STUDENT/CLIMBER/ANIMAL WHISPERER SEE HER STORY AT THENORTHFACE.COM.AU/SHEMOVESMOUNTAINS. PHOTOS: SIMON CARTER

Travel Play Live 071STOP NEVER EXPLORING

SUBSCRIBE YOUR WILD CHILD NOW! www.bellaraemag.com 072

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te agliwfeith eam Crim br in

Passion PURPOSE +

I am in awe of you, warrior woman.

I see you there, embracing your wild side, throwing off the weight of worry, expectation and doubt to forge your own vibrant trail over the crests and through the valleys of life. You’re doing it! You’re travelling with purpose and generosity. You’re playing with wonder and delight. You’re living with integrity and wholeheartedness. I see you cultivating a caring, connected community and I want in! But I’m not here alone – I’m bringing my whole girl gang with me. Chances are you already know one of them. They’re a diverse bunch, a mixed mob. They’re young and fierce, angry and selfish, anxious, smart, hopeful and afraid. They’re growing up in a world of glowing screens and mental health struggles, and they need you. Though our gals can seem standoffish, don’t doubt the impact you can have. They’re watching closely. They’re in desperate need of your wisdom and encouragement – to fall in love with nature and adventure and to learn to nurture their bodies and their souls. And when they won’t listen, give them something good to read. This is the heart behind your sister in stories – bella rae magazine. We’re an independent, Australian, print publication too. We believe in collaboration, not competition, and we hope our readers will grow into readers of Travel Play Live and other worthy, uplifting media – because you know while sex, scandal and celebrity sells, it doesn’t nourish young hearts and minds. You know at times it takes fierceness and fight to create a life brimming with purpose and passion. Storytelling has long been an artform which connects and ignites us. Can we stand together? Because my squad needs yours and I think you need us too. Count us in – we’re with you. With love, cartwheels, corn chips and salsa, Henrietta and the bella rae team

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The Travel Play Live Women's

ADVENTURE GRANT PROGRAM Supporting Epic Women and their Adventures

Grant Categories Please note: This grant program is not currently open for submissions. 1. EXPEDITIONS FOR CHANGE This category was for applicants whose primary goal of their adventure is to create change locally, nationally or globally via their project or expedition. This category was open to: • Scientists and conservationists who may be conducting fieldwork in intrepid, extreme or remote locations. • Explorers and adventurers who are using their expedition to raise awareness on social or environmental causes.

MA J O R PA R T N ER

• Women forging new ground in the adventure arena and challenging boundaries 2. ADVENTURE FILM & PHOTOGRAPHY For female photographers, documentary makers or filmmakers who are capturing the heartbeat of adventure across the globe. This category was open to creative women who are equally as adventurous as the subjects or locations whose story they are

MA J O R SU PPO R T ER S

telling. 3. YOUNG ADVENTURERS For young women adventurers under 18 years of age who are pioneering the way for their generation to embrace the heartbeat of adventure.

FO U N DI N G PA R T N ER S

Funding may also be used to participate in skills training or competing at a national or international level in outdoor pursuits. 4. WOMEN ADVENTURERS OVER 50 For women 50 and over pushing the boundaries of expectations when it comes to adventure.

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MEDI A SU PPO R T ER

An Update from the Recipients Adventure Film & Photography

O L I V I A PA G E

It’s been an insane few weeks deciding our route. Right now our sights are set high onto the exposed ridge-lines linking Terror Peak, Danger Peak and Lady of the Snows. To our knowledge, no one has attempted parts of the traverse due to the exposure and complicated terrain. Currently Liz is on a North American climbing jamboree, Rosie is getting ready for a trip to Yosemite and Ana is in Fiordland working hard in the snow and rain to pay off ice tools. I, Olivia, am madly trying to recover from a TFCC tear to my left wrist and ogling at topographic maps.

Expeditions For Change

LISA EDMONDS & HELEN SMITH With seven weeks to go before our Camino adventure begins preparation is all going well and on track. Most of our training is achieved in the outdoors where we love to be. Some training involves being in a gym. We are preparing to ensure appropriate maintenance is performed on our equipment so we give ourselves the best opportunity of completing the pilgrimage. We are getting very excited, and nervous, all at the same time but cannot wait to get to Portugal to see what awaits us.

Young Adventurer

LEAH JEFFRIES

Photo Credit: Circuit Climbing

I am about half way through my month and a half trip with the Youth World Climbing Championships and the senior boulder world cup is done. This year, in the Youth World Championships, I competed in all three disciplines (being lead, boulder, and speed) with my best result being 32nd in bouldering out of a strong field of over 70. At the moment I am on a train traveling through the scenic countryside of Germany on my way to Frankfurt. My coach, Alex Mcinnes, another Australian athlete and myself are traveling around Europe training in some of the worlds best indoor climbing facilities to help us prepare for the open world championships.

Women Adventurers over 50

J A C I N TA WA R L A N D My first few attempts to get access to these sites was a bit rushed. I have now gained permission and support from the local Traditional Owner groups to go out on country and photograph their respective women’s sites, so we can do some editing and get these amazing places onto the special places to go. Spending time to get the right feel for each space will, in my view, help raise the understanding and value of these important cultural places.

Young Adventurers

EVE DOWLEY I’ve been over in NZ (Cardrona) training for the Junior World Championships as part of the Audi Winter Games where I am part of the Australian Park and Pipe team. I am the only snowboarder (male or female) representing Australia for Park and Pipe so feel pretty privileged. I was stoked to place 12th in the junior World Big Air comp earlier this week and super excited to compete tomorrow in my favourite event, slopestyle. Photo Credit: Mickey Williams Snow

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LAURA Marshall I N S P I R I N G

J O U R N E Y S

We love to hear about people doing amazing things and wish Laura all the best of luck with her epic undertaking.

WORDS BY: LAURA MARSHALL

IMAGES BY: ERIN FOLEY

ater this month, Canberra secondary school teacher Laura Marshall will attempt to become the first ever solo Australian woman to complete one of the world’s toughest ultra-endurance triathlons from London to Paris – the Enduroman Arch to Arc. The event involves three gruelling legs: 140 kilometre run from the Marble Arch in London to the coast of Dover, a 33 kilometre swim across the English Channel, and finishes with a 292 kilometre cycle from Calais to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Since 2001, there have only been 32 solo athletes to complete the truly challenging event, eight of which have been women. However, to date, no solo Australian women have attempted the remarkable feat! Laura will be the first. Laura is working hard to raise funds to take part in the event with 50% of all donations raised through her GoFundMe page going directly to beyondblue. If you’d like to support and follow Laura on her Enduroman Arch to Arc journey check out her website at www.LauraMarshallA2A.com

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Self

An ode to my

OUTSIDE

WORDS BY: BROOKE NOLAN

The me on the trail is different to the me in real life. In real life, I’m constantly questioning if I’m where I should be. I’m in my thirties and live in a shared apartment; I don't have any savings, a partner or kids; my closest friends are back home in the UK. To put it into perspective, six months ago on the day I bought a little tent my housemate bought an apartment. According to a Google search (yeah I know, never trust Dr Google), I’m in my sexual prime; becoming less attractive to the opposite sex by the day; likely to never own my own property outright; should have set up a pension 15 years ago; and have nearly reached my max earning potential. In real life, I’m constantly self-conscious of how I look. My body. My rosacea. And although I kid myself that I don’t care what others think of me – I do.

amazing. Right here. Right now. Right in this very moment. In the outdoors, I no longer hate my body. Why? Because it got me here. It got me up this big ass mountain. It carried this big ass heavy pack (yes, a camp chair and bottle of red are essential). In the outdoors, it’s no longer about how my body looks but what my body can do.

Not to mention the fact that I get knee pain when it’s cold, and I now get hangovers after three schooners. Jeez, pass me some fluffy slippers and a comfy chair will you? I need to sit down.

I no longer question where I am in life. Because, if I could choose anywhere in the world it would be right here, right now. The sun on my face, the wind in my hair, a campfire, a sunset, the stars above me as I drift to sleep. That strange breed of silence you only get in nature.

Yet out on the trail, it all just melts away.

The outdoors me is a better person.

The outdoors changes me. There’s less judgement. Of myself, my looks, my body, my life, and if I’m truthful, of others. When I’m in the outdoors I feel as though I’m exactly where I should be. In the outdoors I feel stronger, more capable and more focused.

I care less about what others think. I stress less. After all, when you’re on the trail what is there to think about? Shall we take a break now or later? What’s for dinner? Shall we watch sunrise or sunset? Ah screw it. Let’s do both.

I no longer care about what I’ve achieved in life because I’ve just achieved something

I didn’t discover the power nature had on me until a few years ago when I hiked the Inca Trail for my 30th birthday. It’s like a switch

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went off inside me and it’s been my focus ever since. I moved to Australia with one goal: to spend more time outside. If you’d told my younger self that I’d be most happy hiking, sleeping in a grimy and sporting a hefty dose of thigh chafe I would have pissed myself laughing. But here we are. I often wonder what I would be like if I’d discovered the outdoors sooner. Whether some of my hang ups and insecurities would still be part of who I am. But I’ll never know. What I do know, is that I’m grateful that I did discover the outdoors. I’m grateful for the moments of reprieve. Reprieve from a world of carefully curated Insta-feeds that make you question if you’re good enough. Reprieve from that invisible timeframe that we’re apparently supposed to follow. My only wish now is that I can learn to take those feelings home with me. Although, with each trip that gets a little easier. Who knows? Maybe one day I’ll feel on top of the world when I don't have thigh chafe. Now that’d be nice.

BATHE IN NATURE WORDS BY:

LYNDALL MITCHELL

Nature is freedom, nature is connection, nature is jaw dropping beauty, nature is fresh pure air, nature is peaceful, nature is the ocean that travels to the horizon, nature is the lush tropical valley that travels as far as the eye can see – the place where everything just is. Nature offers us one of the most reliable boosts to our mental and physical well-being, spending time outside opens our minds and sharpens our thinking.

TOP WAYS

ature shows us a sense of freedom, and that there is no such thing as perfection. There is no perfect tree or perfect flower; they are all beautiful and we accept and love that about nature. So, when we are in nature, we are more accepting of our surroundings and therefore of ourselves. We take the pressure off perfection, and bathe in the beauty that surrounds us. This is nourishing for our minds, and the more we take moments and pauses in nature, the more we replenish our precious bodies, minds and souls.

to get nature play back on your list, young or old.

Our modern lifestyle has pulled us to spend more time inside – away from nature. And, as much as you know it’s good for you to get outside for fresh air and vitamin D after being indoors at work all day, when you see the lure of the couch at the end of a long afternoon, suddenly just the thought of going for a walk outside can seem unappealing and exhausting. Getting away from big buildings, technology and noise on a regular basis makes you happier, more at peace and grounded. We need space. When we get out in nature we are prompted to listen to our bodies and find a natural rhythm in the surroundings. The urgency, deadlines and ‘clock time’ melt away. Instead, we are guided by the sunrise, sunset, the seasons, and all their innate beauty. Once we make that effort to get out in nature, time slows down, and we can see that adaptability is the key to success. No day is the same, no weather pattern is the same, yet nature flows with it all. Scientists are beginning to find evidence that being in nature has a profound impact on our brains and our behaviour; helping us to reduce anxiety, brooding, and stress; and increase our attention capacity, creativity, and our ability to connect with other people. Make it a habit to spend more time in nature: exercise outside instead of going to the gym; read outdoors; organise weekend nature getaways; have lunch outdoors; take your shoes off and walk barefoot; spend as much of your weekends as you can out in nature. At the very least, get a plant for your office. Live your best life by spending more time in nature. Natural sense One way to maximise your connection to nature is to acknowledge sensations. Stop and think about the feeling of the cool air on your skin, the fresh scents you smell, the vibrancy of colours and organic shapes you see, the relaxing sounds you hear, and the variety of textures around you. Take a minute to put your hands on the soft moss, the smooth bark on the tree or let sand run through your fingers. Take off your shoes and feel the ground beneath your feet, bringing your attention to whether it feels hard or soft, cool or warm, damp or dry. This is called being ‘present’ and is a form of meditation. Clearly, everyone’s access to nature is different, but it is worth taking opportunities to connect with nature when you can. Nature is magic. And nature is free. Nature helps to top up our tank and gives us space. That space helps to park our worries and reconnect to what helps us to live lives of meaning and joy.

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1. Gaze at the sky, looking at the stars. 2. Relax on a park bench (Forrest Gump-style). 3. Play pareidolia with the clouds (looking for shapes and objects in the clouds). 4. Watch a sunrise, sunset, or both. 5. Get back into loving your garden, plant your own vegetables. 6. Listen to night sounds like crickets chirping. 7. Do yoga poses outside, which you may find more soothing than indoors. 8. Visit a nearby river or creek (or urban park with lots of fountains) and listen to the water flow. 9. Have a picnic in a public garden. 10. Look for four-leaf clovers with your children. 11. Book a rock climbing, kayaking, or sailing lesson to try a new outdoor sport. 12. Have a fire pit in your own back yard at night with friends. 13. Participate in a community clean-up project. 14. Hike somewhere you have never been before. 15. Take a walk in your neighbourhood (and stop and talk with your neighbours). 16. Take photos of nature. Frame them or put them on your desk or in your diary. 17. Watch the moon go through its phases. 18. Walk through a park to work. 19. Have lunch in a park. 20. Plan your holidays in nature.

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When we get out in nature we are prompted to listen to our bodies and find a natural rhythm in the surroundingsâ&#x20AC;? LY N D A L L

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Finalist: Cassie Harrison #happyplacetpl

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CONSCIOUS LEARNING A KEY TO WELLBEING WORDS BY: SHANNAH KENNEDY

Shannah Kennedy and Lyndall Mitchell, founders of The Essentialists, believe our conscious choices, habits and behaviours are vital keys to creating powerful results in all areas of our lives. Their latest book ‘SHINE - 20 Secrets to a Happy Life’ offers practical techniques to increase focus, reduce distractions and improve wellbeing. The following is an excerpt from Chapter 13: Learn.

From the moment you are born to the moment you depart our world you will never stop learning. Our dedication to this skill and practice will allow your life to be enriched, nourished and greatly enhanced. It may not be in a traditional classroom setting, or a conscious decision, but we are always experiencing life which is your best daily dose of teaching. However, commitment to lifelong conscious learning is one of your most worthwhile processes as it will broaden your taste, perspective, tolerance and understanding of the world. The power of learning drives change and growth, inspiration and motivation in life. Evidence and research is showing that there is a direct correlation between individuals who strive for growth and learning in their personal lives, and those who thrive in their professional lives. This can be accomplished by committing to the concept of lifelong learning. Learning is when you gain a mental or physical grasp of a subject, when you take ownership of some new knowledge and broaden your understanding of a topic. Learning involves thinking and involves our whole being, senses, feelings, beliefs, values, intuition and our will to grow. If you are not interested in learning, you will not learn. Learning as a skill will depend on not only your ability but your motivation, personality, learning style and openness to want to develop as a person. It is an internal and intentional activity and one of the highest rated personal development tools. As you grow and age, you can become wiser but often more complex as the world around

you gives you more responsibilities. The world is awe inspiring and in understanding many different areas in life we get to appreciate it a whole lot more. Learning adds to the excitement of your life, and assists with making sense of the world in which you live.

• Positive role modelling for your children. • Sustain hope and motivation in life. • Increase your happiness. • Gain a new perspective as you experience life’s ups and downs.

A commitment to learning keeps your brain and mind expanding and more engaged, rather than just existing. Your mind needs stimulation in order for it to work at its optimal level and by continually learning you can actually improve your brain function as you age. Learning will also assist you to be able to deal positively with changes in life as you are likely to require new tools and knowledge as you navigate through each decade. Leaders are learners, the best in the world are full time learners and committed to continual upskilling and education.

There are many simple, effective and realistic ways to implement daily learning opportunities that do not have to inconvenience your life.

The pursuit of knowledge is easier and more accessible than it has even been. Technology advances have opened the world of knowledge up and you can access and relay information instantaneously. But first and foremost you need to be willing to expand your mind, your knowledge and decide to leave your comfort zone, to shed light on ideas that can expand your vision. TOP REASONS TO COMMIT TO CONSCIOUS LEARNING • Strengthen and enhance your skills. • Stay up to date with technology. • Fight boredom patches in life. • Increase confidence, resilience and social awareness. • Increase your earnings in life. • Grow your career, become a valuable asset. • Become an expert in your field. • Improve your brain fitness. • Experience personal fulfilment.

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HOW TO LEARN

Choose and focus on topics that you are truly interested in to kick start yourself and topics that will support your vision and goals. Also, be open and keep a liberal view on new creative opportunities for yourself to move forward. • Set some learning goals. • Commit to a new learning each month. • Formal classroom – sign up to a course. • Books – read all styles of books, fiction, non fiction, book clubs. • E-books – great for reading when in transit so you don’t have to carry bigger books. • Writing – unlock and learn what your deep thoughts are and find clarit.y • Conferences – attend to learn and network with likeminded people. • Travel – an incredible form of education. • Interview people – start a book and interview people to learn from them. • Audio books – efficient, can learn whilst driving, walking, resting. • Attend lectures. • Watch documentaries. • Volunteer. • Bite size leaning – Ted talks, webinars, podcasts. Remember education over entertainment is what will bring about your best possible life www.theessentialists.com.au

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Join us for the adventure of a lifetime in northern Vietnam.

Trek through the lush rainforests and terraced rice fields of Sapa Valley. Explore remote villages and see our life-changing work up close when you visit a community where we are empowering women to make a living.

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N E V E R

T O O

O L D

to be a frothing

! m o r G f r Su

Surfing is more than a sport â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifestyle. It provides you with a happy place and a good surf can put a smile on your face that will last for days. When first learning to surf, your focus might be on the technical aspects of surfing such as improving your popup and developing your understanding of the ocean. But before too long, you will start daydreaming about the perfect wave and counting down the days until your next surf trip. WORDS BY: SURF GETAWAYS & SURFER ANDI WALLACE

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ndi Wallace is a perfect example of a woman, in her early 40s, who decided it’s never too late to learn to surf. She took the leap last year and signed up to a women’s surf trip. Before joining, Andi had never surfed and wasn't even a confident swimmer, yet she made the life-changing decision that this was her time to realise a dream. After her first few surf lessons she was hooked. Andi returned home with a brandnew wetsuit and committed to regular surf coaching. "I never really thought much about surfing,” says Andi, “I mean, I drooled over Kelly Slater in magazines as a teenager and thought he was hot/cool but didn't everyone? A few incidences in my teens and 20s made me shy away from most water activities. Coming from New Zealand, people expect you to be a water baby, but I was the ‘sit on the beach in the sun’ type as opposed to getting in there. That changed on a trip to Bali in August 2017 (I was in Bali after all). I arranged a surf lesson at Balean Beach but forgot about Bali time and the lesson was cancelled twice – maybe it wasn't meant to be. But something was drawing me to surfing, I started following surfing pages and watching surf videos. I had read about some female surf trips – which appealed to me as a supportive and safe way to learn. I loved Byron Bay and after talking to Jenny Boggis, a former pro-surfer who co-founded Surf Getaways, I instantly wanted to sign up. So, I did! The sign-up forms asked if I could swim 50 metres. Heck I thought, I doubt I could swim 5 metres! But I didn't want to say this on the form in case it ruined my chance to go, so I ticked ‘yes’ and immediately enrolled in

adult swimming classes. I'd had lessons as a child, but it was more the fear of putting my head underwater I had to work on. The teachers were awesome, I made good progress, and I was prepared for Byron. I knew it would be no easy feat teaching me (never having been on a surfboard), but both coaches, Jenny and Serena, were amazing. After getting up on my first day, I told them about my surfing and swimming history (or rather: lack thereof), they were surprised but thought it was great. They are both experienced at coaching women and understand how to provide support beyond the technical and physical aspects of surfing. They also knew how to tackle the mental and confidence barriers that might restrict improvement. Being in an all women group, including the surf coaches, created a safe, supportive and non-competitive environment; perfect for learning at your own pace. I really have met some lovely people since I started this surfing journey. After that holiday, I came home and instantly found surf schools in Auckland to continue learning. I was hooked, and it looks like there is no going back now since I’ve purchased a wetsuit and a board. I'm off on my next surf trip to Bali soon and am going to Fiji in November. The surf coaches and all the ladies in my group really helped me find my surf stoke and realise that you're never too old to learn something new. It's a fantastic way to meet like-minded women, not to mention keep fit. I now look for holidays where I can surf, and it makes me feel really good when I get out every weekend, even if it's only once. It all just feels so right, like it was meant to happen this way at this stage in my life – as if I was always meant to surf. Surfing has definitely changed my life!”

TIPS forTOP learning 1 Get the right board. Start off on a big stable long foam board. A ‘foamy’ makes it easier to get up and ride a wave. Only once you’re comfortable riding waves on that is it time for a smaller fibreglass board. Taking out the right board for the right conditions and your level of surfing means catching more waves (and more practice catching and riding waves). 2 Learn about the ocean. The ocean changes every day and to find the right spot to practice your surfing you need to be able to read the ocean and the waves. Also, it is important to understand the dangers of rip currents and how to keep yourself safe in the surf as the best surf spots are often remote and unpatrolled beaches. 3 Take surf lessons or join a surf camp. Between risky wave conditions and unwelcoming local surfers, learning to surf by yourself can be daunting. There’s so much to keep in mind, like finding the right break for that day’s conditions, having the right board for your abilities, and avoiding other surfers in the water. Your surf coach will take you to a friendly beach break to start off and provide you with the right equipment. 4 Find surf buddies. It’s hard not to have

fun when surfing with friends. Women in the line-up encourage each other, calling others onto waves rather than creating competition. And if there are no waves that day, go for a walk or a coffee and a chat instead. 5 Have fun. Don’t take it all too seriously. It’s great to set goals and focus on improving your surfing, but don’t let this take away your fun from being in the water. In the end, the best surfer is the one with the biggest smile – be like that surfer!

LADIES SURF GETAWAYS TO BYRON BAY, FIJI AND THE MALDIVES Designed for individuals or groups of like-minded ladies who are looking for that perfect surfing escape. Whether you have little or no surfing experience, or you are a seasoned enthusiast, our personalised coaching programs, led by Jenny Boggis and Serena Adams, will significantly improve your surfing and your confidence in the water. Perfectly combining the finest accommodation with the ideal dose of surfing stoke and indulgent pleasures, our Ladies Surf Getaways will guarantee you the ultimate holiday memories to last a lifetime. www.surfgetaways.com.au

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Photo Credit: Gaye Gerard

MAKING CHANGE Embracing the Wild

F O U N D E R

W I L D F E S T

W I L D

F O O D

A D V E N T U R E S

Photo Credit: Gaye Gerard

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I cannot pinpoint one moment when I realised I was unhappy. It did not happen suddenly, in fact it happened rather slowly.

WORDS BY: AMANDA FRY IMAGES BY: COPYWRITE WILDFEST

ver time, my passion for promoting other people’s businesses, managing their change, crafting their brand message and feeding their success stopped being satisfying. Instead, I became dissatisfied with my own career path. I had no idea what the solution was except I knew I wanted to move from change-taker to change-maker. I wanted control back – and I have never underestimated the responsibility and risk that goes along with that freedom. So began my path to nature tourism, a process that would take nearly two years with a business plan conceived from unremarkable beginnings. Several factors aligned to bring me to where I am today. After my father died, I made the radical decision to sell my house in Sydney and buy a weekender in a small village where I knew absolutely no one; to create a sanctuary away from the demands and challenges of what was then a very busy working life. For the best part of 15 years I ran my own business, managing public relations for some of the biggest events in Australia, and working for some of the busiest celebrities in the world. For five years I globally managed the fashion brand for Kim, Kourtney and Khloe Kardashian and launched the label into 19 countries (this was at the height of their popularity, so you can imagine the ride). I will not lie, it was fun, insanely hard, and it taught me who I wanted to be and what I was not prepared to ever sacrifice. Those lessons will never leave me. My brother got married and created two

gorgeous human beings, my niece and nephew, twins who bring me more joy than words can describe. Showing them my passions and teaching them about native animals turned on a light that would eventually morph into Wildfest. Via my house in the Highlands, I was introduced to some local people who worked for an animal network. So, on one of my visits I took the twins along with me. They entered a world of wombats in the lounge, baby joey’s hanging off the back of dining chairs at feeding time, a baby possum climbing the curtains and a gaggle of geese whose antics had us in stitches for hours. Apparently, this became quite the conversation when they returned home and was all they talked about for days. From that moment forward Aunty Mandy could walk on water in their eyes when it came to the animal kingdom. I knew I wanted to make more kids feel this way because that is the key to protecting these creatures for years to come. Even in the crazy, beautiful and tumultuous world of celebrity public relations I would find ways to travel and seek out animal encounters along the way – from the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda, Orangutans in Sumatra to Black Gibbons in Vietnam. It was on a celebrity assignment trekking in Vietnam that the seed was really planted for my new professional path. I came across an incredible conservation organisation fighting to change the way animals are perceived across Asia. The group felt it was too late to influence the Baby Boomers on mass (with the strong medicinal culture wildlife represented) and that their best hope for protecting endangered species in the region was to engage up-andcoming generations. So, they started a program

in the wild that got Millennials connected at a deep level to change the culture of wildlife protection. I knew then and there that I wanted to play a part in making that happen in some way, and the best place to start was at home in Australia. My passion for conservation culminated with an invitation to a conference for Change Makers Rule Breakers with Richard Branson on Necker Island, where I joined a host of other global entrepreneurs and trail-blazers. Honouring my heart for the wild, Branson arranged for me to accompany his zoology team who were visiting another of his islands, dedicated to re-populating several endangered species of Lemur. That was the moment where I began to craft my new nature business with one goal: if you can make people fall in love with the wilderness then they will fight harder to protect it. And so, I channelled all my creativity into finding unique, immersive and fun ways to entice people outside. From my Canoe, Champagne and Canapes adventure through the sunken forest on Lake Yarrunga, to a full fancy-dress Winter Solstice Feast in the forest in June honouring the church of nature, I started to find my tribe – and the evolution continues. Wildfest is now an annual event, and my side project, a day-tour business, Wild Food Adventures, is starting to really take off. The biggest take away for me has been that the hard bit isn’t making it happen (although the work involved is unending), but that silencing your mind enough to know what it is you actually want to change about your life was the biggest hurdle.

HERE AT TPL WE LOVE TO UPDATE YOU ON CURRENT EVENTS. TPL EVENTS

Travel Play Live magazine www.travelplaylive.com.au

Australia’s First Wilderness Festival is back. Discover the WILDer side of the Southern Highlands Choose from immersive, hands on foodie experiences like wilderness fire cooking classes or canoes, champagne and canapés. Try an adrenalin rush with our wild spirit challenge and guided wilderness hikes. Perhaps you prefer a slower, calmer, pace so why not come along to forest bathing, wildly creative or tales from the wild events? Maybe transporting yourself with your family to WILDfest® Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve for our overnight glamping experience is more your flavour? Whatever your passion, from heart racing adventures, soul fuelled explorations, the joy of storytelling or the calm quiet of sleeping under the stars, WILDfest® is about seeing nature in a whole new light. When from Saturday 29 Sept to Sunday 7 Oct 2018 at WILDfest® Website www.wildfest.com.au/annualfestival/ Email info@wildfest.com.au Phone 02 4877 1742

Head to our website to view our event directory: www.travelplaylive.com.au/must-do-events 087

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The latest products & offerings from our partners

JANE GROVER Our Delicious Adventure – Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel, Jane entertains with the family’s travel adventures and her delicious recipes. Available NOW. www.janegrover.net

IO MERINO

MISTER TIMBUKTU

Spring is the perfect time to wear natural, lightweight, breathable, odour-resistant, high performance ioMerino. It thermoregulates to keep you warm when it’s cool, but helps you stay cool when it’s warm, so you’ll be ready for anything and comfortable for longer through all sorts of ‘in between seasons’ weather. ioMerino is Australian and ethically made. Tanks & T-shirts from $80. www.iomerino.com

With the belief that you shouldn’t have to compromise between sustainability, style and function Mister Timbuktu encourages you to get outdoors and adventure more. They have just launched their debut collection featuring waterproof raincoats sustainably made from recycled plastic bottles and leggings and crop tops made from discarded fishing nets and other ocean waste. Not only are they upcycling plastics that would otherwise go to landfill, they also donate 20% of profits to people and planet based charities. We bet you’ve never felt better about supporting a female founded Australian small business. www.mistertimbuktu.com

MONKEYSEE

RAYS

LISA MESSENGER

Be brilliant and have some fun in monkeysee’s range of fashion conscious hi-vis and reflective accessories like the monkeysee harness. In a range of fluro colours as well as black and white, each harness offers incredible visibility in the dark with reflective detailing. Available in 3 sizes, the harnesses are adjustable, lightweight at under 60 grams and pack up small. A must for cyclists, runners and walkers who want to be more visible to others. www.monkeysee.net.au

Summer is coming – we promise! Get Summer ready with the Alexa 10'4. Its wider shape makes it extremely stable yet able to glide through all water conditions effortlessly. Its shorter design makes turning while catching small-med waves a breeze. Find your inner zen as the large deck pad makes plenty of room for you to stretch out in your yoga session or even work up a sweat with a water workout session. The Alexa is ideal for beginners to intermediate paddle boarders and have enough volume to suit most body sizes. Available from Rays. www.rays.com.au

Risk & Resilience; Breaking & Remaking a Brand’ by Lisa Messenger: on sale September 10 From the entrepreneur who has never been afraid to dream big comes an uncensored story of what it takes to survive in the start-up scene, her life-changing decision behind closing Collective Hub and why pivoting has proved her most powerful business strategy yet. Written in real time, Messenger’s latest book is part journal, part business resource as she documents the hardest year of Collective Hub’s history. Lisa poignantly describes what it’s like to watch your life’s work teeter on the edge of financial ruin and then delve into the powerful business strategies that helped her survive. www.collectivehub.com

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Love BOOKS #TRAVELPLAYLIVELOVEBOOKS

Are you an author or consumer of incredibly fabulous reads? Then share the love with the TPL tribe. Use #travelplaylivelovebooks and help more people discover great authors. We are considering launching an online TPL Bookstore and would love to hear from you. Do you have a book you want to share? Have you read something you love? Would you like to write a review? Send us an email with your ideas: hello@travelplaylive.com.au.

Roam 4 Eva

On 18 October this year, Terra Roam will set off on a two-year journey around Australia on a bike named Eva. Along the way, Terra will promote ethical, sustainable and responsible adventure travel, and participate in conservation, cultural and community activities and initiatives. She will interview adventurers, creators and change makers, and share their fascinating stories including in her book which she is slowly writing on the journey. Oh, and did we tell you she was also the 1st woman to walk 17,200 km solo unsupported around Australia! Amazing! You are all invited to be part of the adventure. terraroams.earth Find us on: Instagram, Facebook, Patreon, Blog, Linkedin

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CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE BONE BROTH This is a basic healing food – a chicken bone broth, with vegetables and the pickings of meat from the carcasses. It is a meal in a bowl I often cook for those who need healing, particularly when they don’t feel like eating. Bringing warmth, comfort and nutrition, it is an immune boosting meal that is easy on the digestive system. SERVES 6-8 (GF)

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

1. To make the broth base, place the chicken carcasses

Broth base:

into a large pot with 4 litres of water, apple cider vinegar,

2 raw chicken carcasses (approx. 1kg)

onion, parsley stalks and bay leaf. Bring to the boil,

2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

ladling off the scum as it rises to the top. Reduce the heat

1 onion, halved

to a gentle simmer and cook for 2 hours with the lid off.

6 parsley stalks

The amount of liquid will gradually reduce. Remove the

1 bay leaf

chicken carcasses from the pot and set aside to cool.

Broth:

2. For the broth, strain the cooking liquid through a fine

1 onion, finely diced

sieve straight into a large pot. Add the vegetables and

1 leek, finely sliced

garlic.

2 carrots, finely diced

3. Bring the broth to the boil for 5 minutes, reduce to

4 stalks celery, finely diced

a simmer and cook with the lid off for 40 minutes, to

2 large or 4 small potatoes, diced 1 garlic clove, crushed

reduce slightly and intensify the flavour.

To serve:

4. Meanwhile pick the chicken meat from the carcasses.

chicken meat from the carcass, finely chopped

Finely chop the chicken meat and add that and the

parsley leaves, finely chopped

parsley to the broth. Cook for a final 5 minutes to heat

1 tsp fine sea salt

the chicken through. Season to taste with salt and

ground white pepper, to taste

pepper.

Bone broth (or stock) is made by boiling the bones of healthy animals together with vegetables, spices and herbs, producing an infusion rich in minerals. Broth is still widely consumed around the world today, being a cheap food with a high nutrient density. Besides its culinary uses, broth is an excellent source of minerals and trace elements and is known to promote the immune system and help digestion. It is high in calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus, making it great for tooth and bone health. Bone broth assists the health of joints, skin, nails and hair, due to its high collagen content. Adding a little acid (such as apple cider vinegar or white wine) helps to break down the bone and extract the nutrients.

SPECIAL THANKS

©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure – Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

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STEAMED ASPARAGUS WITH TOASTED PINE NUTS Asparagus remains one of the few great examples of real seasonal eating. Springtime comes round and it means that fresh asparagus is on its way. This recipe is great as a side to fish, or to accompany meats on the bbq, it can also be enjoyed as an entrée or light lunch all on its own. SERVES 4

METHOD

(V) (GF)

INGREDIENTS

1. Heat a small frying pan over medium heat and dry fry the pine nuts for 1-2 minutes,

1/4 cup (40g) pine nuts

until golden brown. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2 bunches asparagus, woody ends trimmed

2. Cook the asparagus in a steamer for 3-5 minutes, until just tender and bright

juice of 1/2 lemon

green (test with a small sharp knife). The cooking time will depend on the thickness

1 tsp caramelised balsamic vinegar

of the spears. Remember it will continue to cook once removed from steamer, so get

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

it out sooner rather than later.

Parmesan, shaved and freshly ground black

3. Arrange the asparagus on a platter and sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts. Drizzle

pepper, to serve

with the lemon juice, caramelised balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. Top with shaved Parmesan and season with pepper as desired.

Note: Caramelised balsamic vinegar is balsamic vinegar which has been boiled to reduce it in quantity, producing a thicker and sweeter syrup consistency. On some occasions sugar is added at the time of boiling to add further sweetness and help with the caramelising.

SMASHED POTATOES WITH ROSEMARY Recently I visited Kurrawong Organics Farm on the Central Tablelands of NSW. Lesley Bland cooked me a lovely meal using fresh organic vegetables from their market gardens. This is my take on the delicious potatoes she cooked for me that evening with her freshly dug, new season potato crop. SERVES 6

METHOD

(V) (GF)

INGREDIENTS

1. Preheat the oven to 250ºC (230⁰C fan forced) and line a large baking tray with

1 kg kipfler potatoes or chat potatoes, scrubbed

non-stick baking paper.

1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil

2. Cook the potatoes in a steamer for 20 minutes until tender. Dry any moisture from

1 tbsp sea salt

potatoes. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer.

1 tbsp rosemary leaves

3. Using a fork or potato masher, gently crush or smash the potatoes so they break

Note: Use the highest setting

open but still retain their form. Drizzle with the olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt

on your oven, preferably fan

and rosemary.

forced, for the best crunchy

4. Bake on the top shelf for 30 minutes, until golden brown with a crispy outside and

result.

fluffy inside.

SPECIAL THANKS

©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure – Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

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B I A N C A A N I C E TO

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