Travel Play Live Issue #13 by travelplaylivemagazine

ADVENTURE

EMPOWER

INSPIRE

DREAM

CHANGE

Travel Play Live

ISSUE #13 2018

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adventure & Lifestyle

Layne Beachley Surfing superstar

Rainbow Warrior Women At the helm for Greenpeace

Lord Howe Island Experience the magic

Collective Hub Q&A with Lisa Messenger

AU $14.95 ISSUE 13

Seductive Palestine Discover the beauty

Happy Place Runner Up

Ange Maloney Barrington Tops (NSW)

"The Milky Way watching over 2 wanderers as we rest and rejuvenate at Edwards Swamp."

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ISSUE#13

re even t Reshap ing A dven tuer 2018 Melbourne O ctob C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S T O O U R

Connect Four was one of my favourite childhood games. My brothers and I would play it for hours. We all liked to win. But sometimes we were so intent on our next move we failed to see that the other person had lined up the winning shot.

Letter from the Editor Life seems a bit like that these days. We can get so focused on what we are doing we forget to look up, out, or within, and really notice what is happening. Recently, I took myself offline to visit Bridgetown, a historic regional town in the south of Western Australia. For the last 25 years, the small community has ‘banded’ together to put on an annual blues music festival. The relaxed, three-day event attracts campers and musicians of all ages. It is so enjoyable and accessible that people return year after year. I love it because it’s small, local, and I feel like I’m part of the family. And I’m infatuated with live music. When I stand in front of a band the energy punches me right in the heart. My stomach bunches,

my skin tingles, and my cheeks cramp from smiling. I can smell the excited sweat from the crowd as we share in the joy of a musical embrace. My mind is wiped of stress. I am totally in the moment. Happy and connected. The stories within these pages are all about lifting our gaze and wrapping our arms and hearts around nature, ourselves and each other. Tales of reaching out, taking notice and joining in. As we head into the summer festive season in Australia, it’s a good time to reflect on your game of Connect Four. Is it all about winning? Or is there something you can do to be more present and engaged with the people, pets and places that make you feel good? Love Mel xo

Happy Place Cover Photo Comp winner: “Millie Chalker is a 16-year-old bodyboarder from NSW. She is the current Australian champion in the open women's division and was the youngest competitor. Her goal is to get more girls into bodyboarding and for them to enjoy what the ocean and the sport brings her.” - Rhonda Chalker

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Copyritght TPL Publishing PTY LTD 2015. No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by TPL Publishing and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of TPL Publishing, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this magazine by individuals and TPL Publishing are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. We have done our best to credit all photographers. In some instances photos have been provided to us by those who appear editorially and we have their permission to use the images. We apologise if anything appears incorrectly. It will be a genuine mistake, let us know and we will ensure to mention it in the next issue.

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c ontents RECYCLE OUR WRAP TPL & Jessica Brosnan

RIDING TO THE TRUE HEART OF AUSTRALIA

DOG IN TOW: Wombat the Adventure Dog

Agnes Plesner Skaarup

Lucy Barnard

STAND UP PADDLE FOR EVERYONE

FINDING A SENSE OF SELF

TPL & Port Stephens Outdoor Adventure Mums

Heather Porter

WOMEN AT THE HELM Michelle Lawford ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND

THE ADVENTURERS

Jess Davidson

LAYNE BEACHLEY: From Storyteller to Superstar

RESHAPING ADVENTURE

TPL & Layne Beachley

Richelle Olsen

TPL & Lisa Messenger AVOID THE COMPARISON TRAP; IN ADVENTURE & LIFE

Tina McCarthy

Jen Brown

ALL THE SINGLE LADIES: Solo group travel for the independent adventurist

THE RIVER, THE SEA, AUDREY AND ME

Melanie Chatfield

Hayley Talbot PALESTINE BROKE MY HEART & SEDUCED IT IN THE SAME BEAT

A MIGRATORY LIFE Bonita Grima

FIVE TO THRIVE

FINDING FRIENDSHIP AND SANCTUARY: Cycling Shimanami Kaido, Japan

Caroline Pemberton

TPL

THE SCIENCE OF PARADISE Caro Ryan SHARING RAINBOWS: Lessons in connection from Japan Hanny Allston EN POINTE: From the barre to the summit Georgia Canning

IS DISCONNECTION THE WAY TO GET CONNECTED?

WHAT TO DO ABOUT YOUR ONES AND TWOS

Sputnik Q&A VICTORIA BECK Marathon Runner

CONNECT TO PROTECT

TPL & Victoria Beck

Terra Roam

Michelle Ryan “OUR DELICIOUS ADVENTURE” RECIPES Jane Grover

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STAY CONNECTED We love to hear from you, so be sure to tell us all about your travels and adventures. Contact us at hello@travelplaylive.com.au Share your photos with us on Instagram by using #travelplaylive for your chance to feature.

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RECYCLE Our W R A P

WORDS & IMAGE BY: TPL & JESSICA BROSNAN

One of our readers loved the Zero Waste feature in Issue #12, but asked why we wrap some magazines in plastic and whether this plastic could be recycled. Fair question we thought. Sustainability is important to us so we consulted our suppliers and asked Jessica Brosnan, a Zero Waste Enthusiast and TPL contributor for her advice. TPL: We use a soft plastic wrap to protect the TPL magazines from damage when we mail them to our subscribers. Can this plastic packaging be recycled? Jess: Yes, it can be recycled through the RED Group (REDcycle) program. REDcycle is a recovery initiative for post-consumer soft plastic, designed so manufacturers, retailers and consumers can share the responsibility in creating a sustainable future. Incredibly, RED Group have collected enough pieces of post-consumer packaging to circle Australia over three and a half times! That’s over 380 million pieces of plastic that’ll never end up in landfill, on our beaches or in our waterways. REDcycle send this plastic to their partnering company who produce a huge range of recycled-plastic products; from fitness circuits to sturdy outdoor furniture, to bollards, signage and more. All products are extremely robust, as well as water and termite resistant. They won’t crack, splinter or rot and will never need painting. These products also offer a sustainable alternative to the unnecessary use of virgin materials and provide long-lasting solutions to customers.

TPL: Our mailing house representative confirmed they supply a biodegradable plastic wrap alternative and have spent years making sure that they are true to what the manufacturers state in the claims. What do you think about recycling the biodegradable alternative? Jess: This is a tricky one. REDcycle won’t accept biodegradable plastics as they start to break down before they can be processed. But then you’ve got to wonder how many people will actually REDcycle the plastic wrap? Would more people REDcycle (and start recycling their own household soft plastics) if they knew how to?

Would more people REDcycle... if they knew how to?

For more info on what to REDcycle and where to find drop off locations visit http://www.redcycle.net.au/

Or, is it best to think people simply wouldn’t REDcycle it and biodegradable wrap is better in landfill (it won’t leach etc) unlike plastic? One thing to note with biodegradable plastic is that it needs oxygen to start the degrading process whereas landfill breaks down anaerobically (without oxygen).

TPL: Thanks Jess, you’ve certainly given us something to think about. So readers, when you receive your next TPL magazine in the mail, please pop the plastic wrap in your nearest REDcycle bin to give it a second life.

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Women at the

HELM T H E G R E E N P E A C E R A I N B O W W A R R I O R

The Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior is a symbol of the battle between the best and the worst of our nature as humans. The purpose built vessel is designed to take action in the fight to save our planet’s oceans. Of the thirteen crew members campaigning on the front line, five are women, including the Captain and First Mate. WORDS & IMAGES BY: MICHELLE LAWFORD

I remember July 10, 1985. Waking to the news that the first Rainbow Warrior had been sunk while docked in Auckland, New Zealand, by a bomb that French secret agents had attached to its hull. It was surreal. Shocking. To me, the ship had always exemplified our most noble values, our highest ideals. Until that moment, I had been naïve and thought everyone in the world felt the same way about the Rainbow Warrior as I did. Dutch photographer Fernando Pereira was killed in the bombing. I cried for him and I cried for the ship. I had never cried for a ship before. I had never loved a ship before. The name Rainbow Warrior came from a book containing a collection of Native American prophecies that foretold of a day when the Earth will become sick and the animals will start to die. The stories tell of a tribe that will emerge and save the Earth. This tribe, made up of people of many colours and creeds will be called The Warriors Of The Rainbow and they will speak with actions, not words. For Greenpeace, that prophetic dream has come true.

I began the day with 51-year-old engineer Sabine Steiner, who comes from a small town in Germany. She is the only female currently working in the engineering department. Sabine is the Outboard Mechanic and repairs and maintains the two rigid hull inflatable boats used in direct action. I imagined her executing risky, aggressive manoeuvres but she immediately corrected me by saying, “No aggression. Slow is the new fast. To drop in a diver without being seen I have to be sneaky and smart. In Korea, we went early in the morning in the dark in front of a nuclear power plant. Afterwards, the Coast Guard called and asked: ‘Did you just do something?’”

Being a female captain these days is a little bit special because we are not used to it, but it makes no difference if the captain is a man or a woman.

My dream came true, when I got the chance to climb aboard the third Rainbow Warrior while she was visiting Sydney to raise awareness about The Great Australian Bight and the fight to save it from high risk oil drilling. The Bight has more biodiversity and unique animals than the Great Barrier Reef. It is a critical migration route for 30 species of whales and dolphins, and covers the area from Tasmania to Western Australia, including Kangaroo Island. Sailing high on the winds of triumph from New Zealand where the government has just banned all new ocean oil drilling, the Rainbow Warrior arrived in Sydney for the ‘Making Oil History Tour’.

Sabine recalled her previous life as a social worker and teacher, “You can perhaps help one person or a group of people. Here on the ship, even if I clean the toilets its for a higher purpose.” She remembered a woman she had met in the Philippines who survived the tsunami by choosing between dying or letting go of her mother. “The effects of climate change are in your face and still people say it doesn’t exist,” Sabine states.

Céline Desvachez is a 26-year-old deckhand from Belgium who firmly believes that women are different to men and bring a special quality of caring. “I am a feminist,” she asserts. “I want to be a role model. I’m proud to be a woman in a man’s environment.” Celine believes that if we want change in the world, it will come from more women being in positions of authority. “All the women I meet give me strength. You feel a strong deep connection. There are no words for it,” she says. When I ask if she has had to sacrifice anything to be a member of the crew, she laughs and sighs as if it is too dangerous to contemplate; another feeling there are no words for, “It’s a life of

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Hettie

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Maria

people who see me and say, ‘well, it’s possible’. Being a female captain these days is a little bit special because we are not used to it, but it makes no difference if the captain is a man or a woman.”

Sabine

nomadism. I’m not rooting in a place. I’m rooting in myself.” Maria Martinez Rami is Spanish and at just 30-years-old is the ship’s Chief Mate. She smiles widely but humbly, acknowledging that this is an amazing achievement. It is clear that Maria’s determination and unbounding energy help her overcome just about anything, so I was surprised to hear that one of the most difficult aspects of her job is working in front of a computer when she’s seasick. “Its ok. You keep a bucket close by. You know it will pass.” Working for Greenpeace, Maria sees some pretty confronting things but says it takes a lot for her to feel distressed. She gets frustrated sometimes and this is the really hard part of the work. “I’m a very emotional person,” she admits. “I have to accept frustration; think about it, then let it go. Feeling frustrated stops me doing my job, so it doesn’t make sense to feel frustrated. It passes.” “Like seasickness?” I joke, “Yes” she laughs, “exactly!” The Captain, Hettie Geenen, is 57-years-old and comes from the Netherlands. Hettie is not entirely happy with the fact that she is undeniably a role model for women. “There are young

MEET

Hettie has a collaborative leadership style but doesn’t think that is because she is a woman. She admits sailing is still a man’s world, but she chose to be here so it’s no problem. For her, she believes a mixed crew of both males and females provides the right balance. She describes that when men come aboard they shake hands with the nearest male, naturally assuming him to be the Captain. Hettie simply reaches out, shakes their hand and introduces herself as the Captain. “They are always very nice,” she says. “They say they are sorry, they didn’t realise.” The crew spend three months on and three months off the ship. When Hettie tells me her home is a houseboat near Amsterdam we laugh but clearly Hettie belongs on water. When I asked Hettie how she keeps her spirits up during times when the battle looks too hard to win she says, “It’s easy. Every little step is something. It’s all just little steps. If on open day a little boy or a little girl gets inspired, it’s a little win.” As I watched the ship leave Sydney Harbour, a part of me longed to go too. But, like most, I am not prepared to make the sacrifices required for a life at sea. Besides, if I were to go, who would walk the dog? Can we still be Rainbow Warriors if we stay behind? We think of warriors as being courageous, but Hettie, Maria, Sabine and Celine’s unflinching resolve is driven by a sense of global purpose and responsibility. Their individuality is subordinate to a more urgent identification with humanity and the planet; a call we might all hear if we stop and listen. As Celine said, “...it’s about caring.” Perhaps then, we could all be warriors at heart.

Michelle Lawford

Michelle Lawford is a wildlife photographer, writer, adventurer and advocate for the planet. Her goal is to inspire, excite, promote awareness and action. All profits from sales of her photography are donated towards research and conservation programs that protect wildlife, habitats and support local communities living in harmony with wildlife. www.wild-photography.com.au

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"Throw your dreams into space like a kite, and you do not know what it will bring back, a new life, a new friend, a new love, a new country." â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

A N A I S

N I N

Happy Place Finalist Jacinta Pink Daintree (QLD)

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g n i p a c s E the d n i r G y Dail WORDS BY: JESS DAVIDSON

IMAGES BY: ANDY HOFFMAN

Since I was little I’ve always enjoyed the great outdoors. Mum would often plan epic camping trips away throughout my home state of Victoria. We loved to rough it: basic dome tent, a couple of chairs, gas stove, lantern, and a blow up mattress that always seemed to deflate overnight leaving us to wake up flat on the ground. We didn’t care, it was all part of the adventure. I loved the smell of the campfire that would remain in my hair and on my clothes when we returned to Melbourne. I couldn’t wait to repeat it all over again. I suppose it’s this upbringing I have to thank for the eager sense of adventure I’ve enjoyed during my 32 years of existence.

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n December 2015, I was gifted a bright yellow 1983 Toyota Hiace named Saffy. This had been in Mums partners’ possession for about 20 years and it was now time to be handed down to me. I couldn’t believe it. I’d lived in Saffy out the back of mum’s house for a few months so I’d already formed a special bond with her. I was so excited for our adventures ahead.

listen to on our trips away in Saffy. It’s by The Go-betweens

When I met my now fiancé Andy, he also took a liking to Saffy. We had ourselves the perfect love triangle. From then on, nearly every weekend, we’d go exploring. These trips away helped us to form the strong relationship that we have today. Most of the time there was no phone service, no distractions, no one else around to bounce off – just us. We were forced, in a good way, to get to know each other. We loved this feeling and wanted to be on the road more. We were sick of our same old jobs and routine and needed a change.

Of course, there’s a lot of cafes and mobile coffee operators

and called “Streets of your town”. How fitting, as that’s what we’d eventually end up doing, going “Round and round, up and down, through the streets of your town, every day I make my way, through the streets of your town”. We didn’t find anyone else doing this full-time, living on the road in a campervan, towing their workplace behind them. out there, but we had the freedom to follow the sun, the people and the experiences that we wanted for our new life. We needed to gather the emotional support (and a bit

There were so many emotions. Excitement and trepidation, joy and sadness. Our first ever business. Did we have what it takes to succeed?

“What job could we do that would allow us to travel?” we asked ourselves. Andy had been a freelance graphic designer and we looked at this possibility. However, being asked to be creative constantly is a hard task, and would it be enough of an income to support our travels? Probably not. Back to the drawing board.

of financial) from our family and test our dream with a network of friends we would essentially be leaving behind. With amazing support on both fronts we were ready to make a start. We spent nine months developing a good business plan, saving, getting advice, purchasing equipment, choosing the best suppliers, finding the perfect coffee chariot and building relationships with those who wanted us to

come and serve coffee. We were finally ready to hit the road and trade. We’d plan to be different from the rest and take our pop up café experience to places going without.

On a trip to Adelaide we’d stopped for a coffee. A terrible one that we couldn’t finish. Then it came to us: Why don’t we start a travelling coffee business? My background was in hospitality. I’d been a hospitality trainer for the previous five years. My various roles in the industry had taught me a lot; I was used to talking to different people; I was used to fast paced, stressful environments; I was able to adapt, to think on my feet and have confidence in my decisions. This all helped with the planning and running of our first business: Round & Round Coffee.

There were so many emotions. Excitement and trepidation,

The business name comes from a lyric in a song we loved to

never work a day in your life.

MEET

joy and sadness. Our first ever business. Did we have what it takes to succeed? “All progress takes part outside the comfort zone”, and “opportunities don’t happen, you create them” were helpful quotes to abide by in these early stages. It’s been almost a whole year on the road with Round & Round, and looking back it was the best decision we could have made. Life is short. As they say: if do something you love and find something you’re passionate about you’ll

Jess Davidson

Jess Davidson is a down to earth, fun loving nature enthusiast with a love of the simpler things in life. Ambitious entrepreneur, full time van dweller with a hospitality background who enjoys being outdoors whilst learning new skills on the road. www.roundandround.com.au

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Adventure

R E S H A P I N G

WORDS & IMAGES: RICHELLE OLSEN

We live in a society where there is a perception that only certain bodies can be adventurous. Bodies that are able, fit, small, and capable of climbing a mountain without breaking a sweat. People with bodies that are less able, or who might be suffering from chronic illness, injury, mental health issues or simply haven't been active in many years, are frequently left out of the adventure conversation. We are changing that conversation. At Escaping Your Comfort Zone we want our members, and everyone else, to know that we are not broken, our bodies are enough. They are whole, powerful, and capable of amazing things. We are not a project to be fixed. We accept you all as you are. The outdoors doesn’t care about your size, your pace or your fitness – and neither do we!

is get started.

We believe adventure is in the eye of the beholder. Your adventure doesn't need to be climbing Mt Everest, or traversing oceans. For us, anything that takes us out of our comfort zone is an adventure. And adventure is on YOUR terms. If adventure is hiking halfway up a mountain, it is still an adventure. If you choose to do just a section of a popular trail, it’s still an adventure. In fact, if you can get past your own internal expectations, and those from society, you will see that there's only one rule that applies to adventure, and that's NO RULES! And to top that off, adventure is for EVERYBODY. You don't have to wait to be a certain size or fitness, all you need to do

There were no professionally edited movies and no epic theatre trailers. What the speakers lacked in big budget production, they made up for in their passion, enthusiasm, and drive to share their story and encourage others to try it out for themselves.

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"Reshaping Adventure” offered an evening of stories from adventurers who don’t fit the stereotype. Held in Melbourne on 13th October, over 80 men and women gathered to see how four people pursue adventure their own way, in the face of their own challenges.

Relaxed and comfortable around the (fake) fireplace, we shared an intimate chat on what drives each of them and what adventure ‘their way’ means. The key message? Adventure is entirely personal, and you can make it mean anything you want it to.

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F E A T U R E D

S P E A K E R S

Terra Roam (@roam4eva on Instagram) She's the first woman to walk unassisted, 17,000 kms across Australia. But that isn't her story. Terra has lived her life of adventure with clinically diagnosed autism, and social anxiety which was so bad while walking around Australia she ended up in hospital. She's a suicide survivor managing PTSD and depression. And in case those obstacles weren't big enough, she shared with us the story of facing all of this with gender dysphoria and physical disabilities. Terra's story was one of adventure, despite a whole list of things that should have told her it wasn't possible. Yet there she was, telling us that it was. Sarah Wilson (@couch2kili on Instagram)

Jo Britton (@takingdifferentroads on Instagram) Amateur photographer, and serial world traveller Jo shared what happens when a trip of a lifetime to Canada doesn't go quite to plan. Thanks to unplanned wildfires and thick smoke Jo walked away with a different perspective and many unique and stunning photos. Top take home messages from attendees • Your adventure, your terms, just do it and don’t miss out. • Coming last is okay, as is turning back when you know you should. They're things that I've struggled with, thinking that if I can't keep up with everyone, or there's a chance I won't finish, I shouldn't participate at all. [It] made me realise that joining in and having fun and adventuring doesn't require speed and always getting to the top. Taking part in any way I can is still an achievement and worth doing. • Just get out there and have an adventure on your terms! • If Terra can walk around Australia with Spina bifida and Scoliosis then there's no reason stopping me from giving something a go. • Do the thing you want to do, not what someone else thinks you should do. • I feel like I may have found my tribe in adventure. Huge thanks to our sponsors and supporters BeKeane Healthy and Fit Travel Play Live Afterglow Night Trail Run IO Merino Lonely Planet Monkey Mez Rays Outdoors The Hiking Society KOOEE Snacks - Australia 50 Days The Running Company - Clifton Hill

...we are not broken, our bodies are enough. They are whole, powerful, and capable of amazing things.

Known as Couch 2 Kili, two years ago Sarah was inactive, not walking at all. Yet in August 2018 she undertook her first ever solo trip to climb Mt Kilimanjaro. She shared with us the highs, and some of the lows, of climbing to the roof of Africa. She accomplished some spectacular rock-climbing at altitude (without ropes) and shared with us how she coped with being the last one in her group every day. She told us how she reframed her thoughts and emotions when she made the extremely difficult choice to look after her body and turn around before reaching the summit. Richelle Olsen (@richellerides on Instagram) Founder of Escaping Your Comfort Zone, and avid bike tourer, she shared a glimpse into her solo bike tour through the Scottish Highlands – on her own terms. Richelle believes it doesn't matter if she rides 10 km or 80 km in a day, it’s her holiday, her choice, her adventure. There was no sugar coating, she shared some brutally honest videos and images of epic spots to answer the call of nature! It was warts and all, with the reminder that everything you see on Instagram is not always the reality. Solo travel can have its really lonely moments but given the choice between waiting for someone you want to travel with, or just getting it done, she

ABOUT

believes the choice is simple. And some days a comfy bed and a hot shower trumps getting to the summit of a mountain!

Escaping Your Comfort Zone

A not for profit, body positive, women's hiking organisation and a Bushwalking Victoria club led by a crew of very enthusiastic volunteers. We have groups across Melbourne, Geelong, Gippsland, Canberra and Sydney. We aim to be an open group for every woman and gender diverse person who wants to get outdoors but doesn’t know where to start. We create a non-judgemental space where you are welcome the way you are. www.escapingyourcomfortzone.com

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"We learned that adventure is entirely personal, and you can make it mean anything you want it to."

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Finding

FRIENDSHIP & SANCTUARY CYCLING SHIMANAMI KAIDO, JAPAN

Photo Credit: Photocreate Japan

WORDS & IMAGES BY: TINA MCCARTHY

I knew when the Captain stopped riding and started walking, that was my licence to give in. There was no need for heroes on this hill. I’d been stewing over this one all week, knowing the hill was before us. I’d promised gentle riding, a few small hills that were over fast and a ride that was manageable by everyone. But with the stupidly hard climb to Shiratakiyama – and immersion into it’s heavenly world floating among the clouds – I knew we needed to do this.

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It was day one, and as we rounded the bend through the market gardens a small road appeared. We knew that it took us straight to the 1.8 km climb with an average gradient of 15%. It was a killer hill, and with only about a third of it conquered, walking seemed like a far better option. I’m not sure if the Captain decided to walk because it was tough; more likely because he was being kind to us. Walking up hill in cycling cleats isn’t fun, but the women persevered. Encouraged by the ever smiling Captain (a local cycling legend from Hiroshima and great friend and supporter of Wheel Women), we sweated and smiled along with him. Bikes parked, we tramped up a winding path on stone steps laid hundreds of years ago. We entered through the solid tori gate, and passed from our mortal world into the domain of the gods. It was magical. One can only imagine the Buddhist dedication it took to construct such an extraordinary homage in an inaccessible and formidably steep landscape.

sparkling jewels of the Seto Inland Sea. I could hear their gasps of awe, and for some, I saw tears of happiness as they realised their dream of cycling in Japan was now a reality. Yes, we were really here, as a team, exploring the islands, visiting the temples and meeting the locals. Being joined by my friends from Japan for a day of cycling meant we were immersed into an unfamiliar world; language barriers, unknown signs, strange snack foods. But one thing we all shared was our love of riding a bike. We were unified and bonded by the knowledge that we were experiencing more than just temples. It was magical beyond words. Our Wheel Women team comprised a diverse mix of women aged from early 40s, to our oldest rider Sylvia at age 76. Some, like Sylvia, had been cycling with us in Japan before and knew this was a tour not to miss. Others, like Andrea from Colombia, had been cycling for less than a year, a real newbie on the bike but eager to be a part of this crazy ‘family’. The riders came because they wanted to explore, take time for themselves and simply see if they could do it.

We were unified and bonded by the knowledge that we were experiencing more than just temples. It was magical beyond words.

It was a dream come true to share this heavenly world with 11 riders from Wheel Women. At the suggestion of taking on Shiratakiyama on the first day, no one batted an eyelid. In fact, they all looked around at each other grinning, nodding with looks of ‘yes we can’ and a little bit of FOMO. This was the spirit I came to love so much about the women on this tour – nothing was out of their reach, nothing would stop them, and they’d do this as a team. Shiratakiyama was on their list to conquer, even if it meant walking most of it. As we moved around the hilltop they were silent. Each woman in awe of what they were seeing; stone deities lined the walk to the temple top, the bamboo swayed gently in the breeze, and below it seemed like a thousand islands were spread out across the

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There was never any doubt in my mind that each woman would bring to the tour her own spirit of adventure and determination. But I was overwhelmed by the sense of teamwork that started from day one. They were all familiar with riding together in Melbourne, but travelling together brings so many new challenges. “I just love this teamwork…everybody is helping each other. We are a team. I love this!” Andrea declared in her wonderful Colombian accent as she helped another rider get their bike building completed. As a newbie to the bike world you could sense her excitement and enthusiasm and it was infectious. Teamwork is just one part of the Wheel Women tour. There is also

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an unspoken decree of patience for your fellow travellers. Put a group of women together for two weeks and I often wonder how long it will take before the tearing down of poppies begins. But it just didn’t happen. This was a true team who rose to the challenges. Most had never done a multi-day ride before, some had never been away from their families for that long, most were afraid of the hills, yet all agreed we would ride as a team.

departure.

Though faced with the challenges in a land unknown, all the riders pulled together so beautifully. Sharyn knew from the outset that she wasn’t going to be the fastest up the hills. On our last Japan tour she had felt a sense of frustration at holding the group up as she struggled to make the climbs. But she had resolved that this year things would be different. She’d told me, “I can’t do that to the team... it’s not fair”. So with a mission to improve her fitness, Sharyn’s work started months before

For others, it was not the hills that were their nemesis. It was the nervousness of knowing they would ride more in eight days than they had ever done before. Treena would be leaving her three primary school children behind for a break she needed more than ever – something to challenge herself and something she had dreamed of doing. As the tears streamed down her face mid-ride, it was clear that disbelief was sinking in. She’d finally made it, she was with her team, making new friends, seeing a world she had only imagined. The challenge of being away from her children was huge (thank goodness for Facetime).

Riding regularly and working out at the gym took Sharyn from feeling like she’d always be last, to knowing she could seriously do it. It was clear that she had become a woman who would simply never give in. She plugged away on the hills and made it to the top every time, breathing hard, but determined and smiling. I felt so proud of her for the commitment she had made to herself and to the team – it was inspiring.

It was clear that she had become a woman who would simply never give in.

For Mary, this was about stepping out of her comfort zone. As Ambassador and co-founder of the Amy Gillett Foundation, and mother of Australian champion cyclist Amy Gillett, Mary was nervous before she’d even left home: fears of safety, being far away and worries that she wouldn’t be able to build her bike up at the other end all added to the personal challenge. When emotions took hold at the Hiroshima Peace Museum, I knew Mary was in great hands with Sylvia as they quickly opted instead to walk through the Peace Park for some solitude and

a corner and the hill leaps out to bite you. At an average 10% gradient for one kilometer, the ice-cream stand on completion of the descent is welcome relief (our riders certainly kept the ice cream economy of Japan going). The Shimanami Kaido is just one part of cycling in the Hiroshima and Ehime Prefectures. Our mission was to explore as much of it as we could. Good friends and Hiroshima locals, Mari and Aki, took us on the 70 km journey across the Tobishima Kaido, which sits west of the Shimanami. It’s rained every time I’ve been on this course so I’m still waiting to see what it really looks like, but the rain didn’t deter the team who laughed the whole way through the mist and tougher climbs to the bridges. In my opinion, the Tobishima is more of a pure cyclists course, with less traffic, less infrastructure but magnificent views (even in the rain), some great open flats to really let loose on and some climbs to challenge. Couple this with the 400-year-old village of Mitarai as a welcome rest stop and you have a perfect day on the bike. Though the rain and slippery descents presented a real challenge for everyone, hearing the laughter from behind me was warming. Even Mari and Aki were laughing at how much fun we thought it was. Being joined by Japanese friends on various days meant we didn’t get lost. So, naturally en-route to Matusyama via the coast with me leading meant several dead ends, closed roads and re-tracing of steps. The beauty of being lost however meant we explored places we didn’t expect to find. We peered over back fences into the lives of locals in picturesque villages. We watched a man fishing with a cormorant off the rocks. We spotted sleepy neighbourhoods and skulking cats everywhere (as if we’d stepped straight into a Murakami novel). reflection together. Riding the 70 km Shimanami Kaido is a perfect place for reflection. Called the ‘cyclists sanctuary’ for good reason, the views across the Seto Inland Sea south of Hiroshima provide the perfect landscape to sink into a sense of wonder and awe. Sprinkled with small islands dotted below the seven bridges that create the passage from Honshu to Shikoku, the smallest of the four main islands. The cycling infrastructure and friendly drivers is something we dream about in Australia. Though there are designated ‘recommended’ routes along all of the Shimanami, we decided from the outset to try and take some of the roads less travelled, using slightly more difficult sections where we could. This included the hellish Shiratakiyama climb, which at times peaked at 23% gradient. There is also the legendary climb we dubbed ‘rose park’, where you round

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With close to 400 km cycled and 2000 vertical metres climbed, the team completed what Jenny called the ‘experience of a lifetime’. From the outside, some may see it as a holiday, others as a ‘tour’, but what I see is a life changing experience for each and every woman involved, for everyone who took on personal challenges and personal demons and kicked them in the butt. I bow deeply in honor to you all. Gambatte okudasai! (Be strong…you can do it.) Disclaimer: Many thanks to the Governor Yuzaki and the Hiroshima Government for their generous invitation to attend and speak at the Cycle Shimanami 2018 Summit and for their support and assistance for our Wheel Women adventures to Japan. Special thanks to my amazing Hiroshima cycling buddies who always enthusiastically cycle with us and extend such a warm hand of friendship whenever I visit.

Tina McCarthy

Tina McCarthy believes you don’t have to be an elite athlete to ride a bike, you just need to have a desire to make time for yourself. Being on a bike brings a real sense of freedom, and sometimes that's just what we all need. Cycling takes her to a whole different headspace and it is a great place to be. Join her and many others at Wheel Women. www.wheelwomenaustralia.com

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All the

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WORDS BY: MELANIE CHATFIELD IMAGES BY: GREAT WALKS OF AUSTRALIA

Let’s face it, self-sufficiency and solitude for extended periods in the wilderness isn’t for everyone. But neither is the prospect of being crammed in a bus full of people and taking photos out the window. What if you crave an active holiday but have no one to go with? What if you want to get away and do your own thing but don’t have the time to plan something? You are not alone. The travel industry has well and truly noticed the rising appetite of the independent solo traveller. Guidebooks, blogs, websites, clubs, meetups, tours, and even an annual awards ceremony are now dedicated to solo friendly travel options. Features generally include small group numbers, a local guide, a semi-flexible itinerary and special consideration for the needs of those travelling on their own. All kinds of people are into it. Newcomers and seasoned travellers alike are finding that solo guided tours offer them a mix of freedom, adventure, structure and a meaningful experience. And it’s proving particularly popular with women.

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Small group trips make it easy and accessible to explore places where it might be difficult to go alone. Or to pursue new activities that you are keen to try but are not sure where to start. Trips offer the chance to hang out with people with similar interests and can be a quick solution when you suddenly decide you want to get away. There is plenty on offer. Remote multiday walking adventures, indulgent food and wine trips, and options to explore exotic, hard to reach destinations. Within Australia, walking trips to explore our own backyard are proving popular with domestic tourists who fancy a mini-break or dream of discovering our more rugged and spectacular landscapes on foot and up close.

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Local treats

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It’s hard to beat local knowledge. Experienced guides know all the shortcuts, hidden gems, regional delicacies and the best places to stop. They’ll give you tips for your free time, introduce you to locals and help you find what you are looking for.

The day-to-day planning is largely taken care of. Routes, accommodation, meals, activities, equipment and transport are arranged to varying extents. If you are doing a multiday activity like walking, you will get tips on what and how to pack. The hard thinking and logistics will be done so you can relax and focus on being in the moment. Peace of mind Travel to certain destinations or doing activities you are not familiar with can be daunting on your own. Joining a group offers you (and the people who care about you) a level of comfort when it comes to safety and security. Someone will be there to help and support you if you need it, and will take an interest in your wellbeing.

Learn stuff Guides are skilled at explaining and interpreting the landscape, culture, history and other features of a place and its people. They will often point out things that you may ordinarily miss like the tiny delicate orchid that you are about to step on or the wild mushroom that is safe to eat. Depending on the type of trip, they might teach you handy skills like map reading, star gazing or how to choose the best wine with lunch. Your companions are also likely to be an interesting bunch with plenty of tales to share. Before you know it, you’ll be adding more places to your bucket list or discovering a love for ornithology.

Share the adventure Small group trips often attract well-travelled and engaging people from all over the place. You’ll share real life moments together and are guaranteed to make new friends. With others around to spur you on, you may be encouraged to achieve something you thought was personally out of reach or be inspired to think about something from a different point of view. Do the maths Solo travel on a group tour can be more cost-effective than heading out on your own. Specialist gear is usually included in activity-based trips so you won’t have to spend money on big investment pieces like backpacks that you may not use again. If you don’t fancy sharing a room, keep an eye out for trips and deals that offer no or low single supplements.

Photo Credit: Luke Hanson

Photo Credit: Luke Tscharke

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Small group trips make it easy and accessible to explore places where it might be difficult to go alone.

With so many options available now it can be difficult to choose. To help you get started, think about the time of year can you go and the type of experience you want. Do you prefer sleeping in lodges, tents or luxury? Do you want to move every night or settle in a spot? Some companies will help to link solo travellers who share a particular interest and create bespoke tours just for the group. Do your research

Read your trip notes and turn up with what is on the gear list. It can be embarrassing when you forget to bring your pants on a walking trip and there are no shops to save you. Know what type of terrain, accommodation and weather to expect and pack accordingly. If you are doing an active trip, make sure your fitness level is appropriate before you go (it will make the experience so much more enjoyable). While trips are guided, they are designed for independent people so you will have to actually walk yourself along that trail, with your guide leading the way. Pants or no pants.

Trip structure, activities, difficulty, and creature comforts will vary. Check the fine print, ask questions, read reviews and pick a trip that suits your preferences and abilities. Freedom to explore The amount of direction (hand holding), flexibility and free time varies between tours so consider how much alone or down time you desire and factor this into your decision making. It can feel frustrating to be locked into things all the time so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to know in advance how many group meals or activities are mandatory and when you can wander off.

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Be prepared

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Great Walks of Australia, sponsors of our major Tribe Giveaway prize, offer a bucket list of 12 incredible multiday guided walking experiences across Australia. Freycinet Experience Walk and Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk are both very popular for solo travellers as they include private rooms at no extra cost.

The next step is yoursâ&#x20AC;Ś

Explore this incredible backyard on a multiday guided walk with Great Walks of Australia Western Australia: Margaret River Cape to Cape Walk South Australia: Murray River Walk and The Arkaba Walk (Flinders Ranges) Tasmania: Freycinet Experience Walk, Cradle Mountain Huts Walk, Bay of Fires Lodge Walk,The Maria Island Walk and Three Capes Lodge Walk Victoria: Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk Northern Territory: Classic Larapinta Trek in Comfort Queensland: Scenic Rim Trail NSW: Seven Peaks Walk on Lord Howe Island The next step is yoursâ&#x20AC;Ś greatwalksofaustralia.com.au

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greatwalksofaustralia @greatwalksofoz @greatwalksofoz

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PALESTINE Heart B R O K E

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and seduced it in the same beat.

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WORDS BY: CAROLINE PEMBERTON

IMAGES BY: CAROLINE PEMBERTON & FLORIE THIELIN

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks – on your body or on your heart – are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt.” – Anthony Bourdain I love this quote from the late Anthony Bourdain, the ballsy travel presenter who told it how it is. Why? Because I believe we’ve lost one half of the art of travel: the half that hurts.

oday’s travel scene has digressed into picture perfect and is at risk of being fake. We want tropical islands on sunny days when seas are sparkling, instead of when they’re whipped by storms that create the landscapes we love. We consume places through smartphone pixels rather than presence. We move through landscapes not to be touched but to tout them online. Another wide brim hat exploring a Tuscan town, a glistening wine glass perched on a white wall in Santorini: #MyPerfectLife. When we think about #travelinspo, we sweep under the rug destinations that stretch, anger, compel and even confuse us – exactly what I found in Palestine. Palestine broke my heart and seduced it in the same beat. It’s a fascinating place with colourful culture, ancient history, and sincere hospitality set upon the world’s most controversial conflict – an intractable argument that rages over a land deeply sacred to three of the world’s largest religions; Judaism, Christianity and Islam.

In the religion of Judaism, God promises Abraham and his descendants a ‘Promised Land’ flowing with milk and honey and it’s this divine homeland that is central to the religion. Settled by the Ancient Jews, the area was conquered by the Romans in 135 AD and passed through the dominion of many empires until it was absorbed into the Ottoman (Turkish) Empire in 1517. The Turks ruled it as a majority Muslim land for 400 years until World War I (WWI) when the Empire collapsed and it was divided between Britain, France and Greece. In the fall out, Britain was given governance of Palestine under a League of Nations Mandate. For most of this period, a mix of people lived in the area, the minority were Jewish, followed by Christians, and Muslims held the majority. In 1915 during WWI, local Arabs joined forces with the British (The McMahon Agreement) to help them defeat their Turk overlords in exchange for the creation of an independent Arabia. However, in 1917 the Brits also promised the same area of land to the Jews (The Balfour Declaration) supporting establishment of a ‘national home’ for Jewish people in Palestine. For Zionist Jews, this aligned with the biblical concept that this Holy Land was promised to them by God.

Walking back in time and experiencing the Holy Land first hand is a oncein-a-lifetime opportunity.

The controversial bit Before I left, I had no real grasp of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. When I saw it in newspapers it was like picking up a complicated novel half way through; trying to understand an intricate plot without the context of the opening act. Now, having been there, I understand more but acknowledge I still don’t know much. I’m not religious and I only went to Palestine, not greater Israel, therefore only got one side of the story. Nonetheless, here is my impression. Palestine is a small region of land in the Middle East, roughly 6,220 sqm with a population of 4.8 million. Violent attempts to control the land have defined much of its history. Arab people who call this territory home are known as Palestinians. They have a strong desire for sovereignty and to create a free and independent state from the Jewish nation of Israel.

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Following Balfour, many European and Zionist Jews immigrated to Palestine, however their growing population created tension with local Arabs. In 1947 the United Nations proposed a plan to partition the area into independent states; one for the Jews (Israel) and one for the Arabs (Palestine) with Jerusalem as internationalized territory. Jewish leaders accepted the plan, but the Arabs opposed it. They felt that given they were the majority, they should be granted more territory. In May 1948, the British withdrew from the region and Zionist leaders declared Israel an independent nation. Around 700-900 thousand Palestinians lost homes, farms, businesses, towns, and

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cities as Jewish militia drove them out. Newly created Israel immediately moved their citizens into emptied Palestinian homes. To the Palestinians, this event is known as an-Nakba or ‘The Catastrophe’ and many refugees still hold keys to their lost homes in the hope of someday returning. In 1967 Israel attacked Egypt, Jordan and Syria in a war that lasted six days but resulted in major land gains for Israel. Since then, Israel has maintained military occupation of the Palestinian West Bank, East Jerusalem and the Gaza Strip. Palestinians still fight for independence while large populations of Israelis continue to reside in what many consider illegal settlements. Contentiously, there is a dual system of law whereby Israeli settlers are accorded full rights of citizenship and are governed under Israeli civil law. Meanwhile, Palestinians in the same area are subject to Israeli military law (with a 99% conviction rate), unequal access to water, electricity, schools and other state services, and restricted movement within territories. The situation is widely criticised by the international community as an apartheid system.

and savvy traveller. Both Israel and Palestine want visitors. • Keep an open mind, your political opinions to yourself and avoid places with planned protests or local tensions. • It’s always a good idea to review government travel warnings (www. smartraveller.gov.au) and dress respectfully.

So why go? With all the conflict and angst, why not strike it off the bucket list? Because it’s one of the most interesting places I’ve ever seen. Walking back in time and experiencing the Holy Land first hand is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. There are over 6,500 archaeological sites, delicious fresh food, the best falafel of your life, and warm people who desperately want to share their story with you.

My most visceral memory is not the birthplace of Jesus in Bethlehem or the home cooked Palestinian feast I was invited to, but the deeply imposing, grey concrete massif that snakes 650 km to separate and cut off Palestine, known as the Israeli Separation Wall. While depressing and shocking in person, the Palestinians make the most of it. Street vendors find relief in its shade; artists make it their canvas by scrawling poignant, clever and funny political graffiti. My favourite: ‘Make Hummus, Not Walls’. This land is a melting pot and will leave you conflicted and confused on one hand and inspired and moved on the other. I implore you to do the research and feel the stories for yourself. Your individual beliefs, religious persuasions and opinions are a lens through which you will see a story that makes sense to you. My story will not be yours, you need to seek it for yourself. It may hurt, but that’s real travel.

Things to keep in mind • To get to Palestine, you will need to cross from Israel. At the border, it’s easier to say you are visiting the ‘Holy Land’ as it raises fewer questions. • Try to avoid having your passport stamped. Ideally get a separate card containing your tourist information (keep it safe as you may require it to enter the Palestinian West Bank). Why care? Israeli stamps in your passport may prevent future travel to several countries. • Visiting Palestine generally poses no threat to the respectful, aware

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In the end It would have been easier to give you the picture-perfect overview. To tell you of the glistening golden dome of a sacred mosque that shines so brightly it stuns the naked eye, or the feeling of reverie as pilgrims realise their dreams of devotion, or what it’s like to hear the joyful sound of bells toiling out across a land hazy with heat. But that’s just one half of a curated picture seen on Instagram. The part that hurts is what makes it real. The nerves at the border crossing, the traffic that stalls through spontaneous military checkpoints, tyre spikes flung haphazardly across the road, and fresh faced Israeli soldiers with assault rifles slung on their shoulders. That’s the part that awakens you to reality.

“All truths are easy to understand once they are discovered; the point is to discover them.” – Galileo

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T H I N G S 1 Visit Jerusalem

I was particularly motivated to see the Old City of Jerusalem. While I’m not religious, it’s difficult to deny the spiritual magnetism of seeing a World Heritage site first hand. The Old City itself is tiny, only 0.9 sqm and roughly divided into four quarters. The Muslim Quarter (my favourite) is home to the Temple of the Mount, the al-Aqsa Mosque, and the Dome of the Rock with its stunning mosaic ceiling. It’s only open to non-Muslims for a few hours per week so plan your visit. Ladies need to be completely covered and wear a headscarf while gents require long trousers. The Christian Quarter contains the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – the site where Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected. The Armenian Quarter boasts the Cathedral of Saint James. Finally, the Jewish Quarter, with its many synagogues and yeshivas, contains the Wailing Wall, the holiest place in Judaism. Wrapped amongst this religious reverie are colourful bazaars selling souvenirs, Arabic coffee, sweets, and groceries to hordes of passing pilgrims. 2 Eat Kanafeh To recover from the sensory overload of Jerusalem, kick back with a sweet treat of Kanafeh, a cheese-based pastry soaked in sugar syrup that tastes more delicious than it sounds.

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3 Try stretchy ice cream in Ramallah

6 Hike the Masar Ibrahim Trail

If Kanafeh sounds too strange, how about stretchy ice cream? A shop in the Palestinian capital is so good that young Israelis allegedly sneak in just to get their hands on a cone. Made with mastic gum it has an elastic texture and is delicious. The best stuff can be found at Rukabs, who have been making stretchy ice cream since 1941.

An extraordinary thru-hike called the Masar Ibrahim Trail (or the Abraham Path) has just opened. At 330 km long, it passes through villages where you can experience legendary hospitality and a solid adventure. Don’t be deterred by the length, you can easily break it up into shorter day hikes (10-20 km) or tack a few together for a multi-day expedition. Footpaths, dirt roads and shepherd’s trail are the building blocks of the hike. While it’s well marked, you’ll still need a GPS and a trail map (available online).

4 Visit the Taybeh Brewery Thirsty? Take the detour to the Taybeh Microbrewery. Drinking alcohol is still taboo in the majority of Muslim countries and yet Taybeh hosts the world’s most unlikely Oktoberfest. Every year, over 16,000 people flock to this tiny town to celebrate. Not only is it the only brewery in Palestine, their female brewer Madees Khoury knows how to make a fine pint! If beer isn’t your thing, they also have a winery with a surprisingly good drop. 5 Stay a night in a Bedouin camp Need a change of pace? Transport yourself back in time to live with the indigenous nomads of the desert. World renowned for their hospitality, the lifestyle of the Bedouin hasn’t changed since biblical times. Enjoy sleeping beneath the stars in a traditional tent and hearing stories over a plate of Mansaf – a delectable local dish made of lamb cooked in fermented dried yogurt and served with rice. Relish in the peace and silence of the sand beneath you.

7 Visit Hisham’s Palace in Jericho Jericho is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and intriguingly the lowest. It was built 9000 years before Christ and 258 m below sea level on the Jordan River. Archaeologists have uncovered remains of more than 20 successive settlements here including the wonderful Hisham’s Palace. Built in the eighth century the palace boasts a breathtaking 827 sqm mosaic floor (the world’s largest) made from 38 different geometric and floral patterns in 21 colours. Breathtaking is the only word that will suffice. It’s often covered by hessian and sand to protect it from the elements until a roof can be built so check its open before you go. 8 Swim in the Dead Sea

With a 38% salt content you’ll bob and float in the world’s largest mineral spa. While it’s great for your skin, don’t get the water in your eyes – it stings like crazy!

Caroline Pemberton

Caroline Pemberton is a TV travel presenter, speaker and writer who was once upon a time Miss Australia... but don’t let the sash and tiara deceive you – she’s the last thing you might expect from a stereotypical beauty queen. More down to earth than diva, she’s better known as MissAdventure, an open-hearted adventurer and storyteller with a passion for sharing the transformative power of the outdoors. www.missadventure.com.au

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Q&A Victoria Beck MARATHON RUNNER

WORDS BY: TPL & VICTORIA BECK

IMAGES BY: JIM SKOURAS / THE NORTH FACE

Q U I C K

I personally find when I run on trails that my mind is much more relaxed, the scenery is much better, and the challenges and sense of satisfaction are greater.

What was it like growing up in New Zealand? Did you have an outdoor upbringing? It was amazing. We would spend summers in Central Otago where I would be out all day in the forest mountain biking, kayaking on the dam, or really just anything outside. Mum and Dad would take us on 4WD adventures or day walks in the bush as children – these places still hold the best memories. When did running become a part of your life? I did pretty much every sport I could growing up, I just gave everything a go! But running became a clear passion early on in primary school. Did you begin with road running and transition into trail or have you always combined the two in your training? I started off, as most kids do, competing in athletics in the summer and cross-country in the winter. Due to ongoing injuries as a teenager (stress fractures), I almost exclusively trained on trails to try and minimise the impact on my legs. These ongoing injuries also led me to move into duathlon racing so I could

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F A C T S

Nickname: Vic D.O.B: 31.8.82 Hometown: Dunedin, New Zealand Favourite Food: Vietnamese Favourite Music: Varied – mostly pretty chilled stuff like Vera Blue & Flight Facilities Training Nutrition: Gu Energy Gels & Electrolyte Capsules Three Things You Always Pack: Running Shoes, Passport, Headphones Biggest Strength: Determination Biggest Weakness: Chocolate Proudest Sporting Moment: Winning Kepler Challenge Most Humbling Moment: My first & only DNF at Gold Coast Marathon Favourite TNF Product: BTN Singlet & Endurus TR Shoes Causes You Are Passionate About: Equal rights & opportunities for women & girls Favourite Destination For Your Sport: South Island of New Zealand Who Inspires You: Lots of people – from weekend warriors to elite athletes – people pushing their bodies & minds beyond what they thought they might be capable of.

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cross-train with cycling. After about ten years of racing duathlon internationally, I came back to my first love of running, and that’s when I did my first trail race.

How do you fit in training with full-time work as an orthodontist? It involves getting up early and trying to get to bed early.

What’s been your most memorable trail? My first trail race was Kepler Challenge, in New Zealand and I will always remember how different the atmosphere was at the start line – this was one of the big trail races in NZ – but everyone was friendly and so relaxed, it made such a contrast to road races. I didn’t go into the race with any expectations, but I was blown away by the scenery along the trail and epic views at the top of Luxmore Saddle. My watch died after 20 km, so I had absolutely no idea how long I’d been running or when to have a gel, but somehow I managed to come in to that final kilometre in first place. I could start to hear the crowd even though I couldn’t see them and I actually got a bit of a lump in my throat!

Are there any trail races around the world on your bucket list? Wherever I travel in the world, one of my favourite ways to explore a new city or town is to get out and run around. It’s a special feeling to think that I am seeing parts that most tourists would never see, and it’s a great way to get a real feel for your surroundings. I have a feeling that my first 100 km trail race might have to be the Tarawera Ultra in New Zealand. I’d also like compete at Ultra Trail Mont Blanc – whichever distance that ends up being. What is your favourite distance to run? At the moment, I’m really enjoying trail races that are 50-60 km long. Why do you think it’s important to have strong female role models in the outdoors and adventure sports industries? There’s a saying that, “you can’t be what you can’t see”. Girls need to see that women are pioneers and adventurers and that gender should not be a barrier to your dreams. You now live in Mackay, Queensland. Is the local running scene different to New Zealand? Yes! It might seem obvious, but it took me a while to learn that I really needed to drink a LOT more water than what I was used to. Also, I have to drag myself out of bed so much earlier in order to beat the heat and that has been tough. I do miss the hills and trails of Dunedin a lot, and I relish any chance to get back home. But there is a good, supportive community of runners in Mackay and the trail scene is getting bigger. What is the driving force behind your running career at the moment? With trail running, you can’t really compare times or pace from race to race. I actually quite like that because you are just challenging yourself. I‘m always striving to do better – I’m a very competitive person (this might not always be a positive thing!). How do you approach nutrition day to day? I’m pretty relaxed, I try to refuel and rehydrate well after a training session, but aside from that, I just try to have a balanced diet. How often do you train, and what mix do you have in terms of running, strength and stretching? I run every day and do two gym sessions during the week. Building up to a longer race, I might do two days of double runs. I also fit in a few stretching/yoga sessions each week and have a fortnightly massage.

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Q&A Victoria Beck MARATHON RUNNER

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Do you see many road athletes making the switch to trail running? Why do you think this is happening? Yes, I personally find when I run on trails that my mind is much more relaxed, the scenery is much better, and the challenges and sense of satisfaction are greater. I think some athletes battling injury or fatigue with road running naturally gravitate towards trail. It’s less stress on the body, but also on the mind. What has been the most rewarding part of your running career so far? I feel very lucky to have been invited to race all over the world. Along with the high after winning a big race, are plenty of small things day to day, such as the sense of accomplishment after getting through a really hard session. It’s also a pretty cool community of people to be involved with, and I’ve made some great lifelong friends.

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H I G H L I G H T S

2018 – 3rd Place: Ultra Trail Australia (50km) 2018 – 2nd Place: Six Foot Track Marathon 2018 – 1st Place: Hamilton Island Hilly Half Marathon 2017 – 1st Place & course record: Mackay Marina Half Marathon 2017 – 1st Place: Queensland Marathon Championships 2016 – 1st Place: Oceania Marathon Championships 2016 – 1st Place: Sydney Blackmores Half Marathon 2015-2018 – 1st Place: Hamilton Island Hilly Half Marathon (trail) 2015 – 1st Place: Queenstown Marathon 2015 – 1st Place: Iwaki Marathon, Japan 2015 – 1st Place: Whitsunday Trail Race 2014 – 1st Place & course record: Queenstown Marathon 2013 – 1st Place & course record: Routeburn Classic Mountain Race 2012 – 1st Place & course record: Motatapu Off-Road Marathon 2012 – 2nd Place: Kepler Challenge 2011 – 1st Place: Kepler Challenge

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VICTORIA MOVES MOUNTAINS

VICTORIA BECK, TRAIL RUNNER/DOCTOR/CHALLENGE SEEKER SEE HER STORY AT THENORTHFACE.COM.AU/SHEMOVESMOUNTAINS. PHOTOS: JIM SKOURAS

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7/11/2018 1:00:54 PM

4 PM

Riding to

T H E

T R U E

HEART of

Australia

WORDS & IMAGES BY: AGNES PLESNER SKAARUP

When you are on a motorcycle there is nothing to distract you from the road. No radio, no air-conditioning, no one to talk to. It is just you and the endless road. You are forced to immerse yourself in the monotony of the landscapes and it is addictive. You notice the changes in temperature during the day, smell the decay by the side of the road, inhale the scent of the sea, feel the cool air when you’re close to a river or a lake. I grew up on the backseat of a 1946 Nimbus motorcycle. When I was 20-years-old I finally got my license and a Nimbus of my own. Australia has been on my radar since I was young, attracted by the vastness of this red land. In May this year I spontaneously bought a plane ticket to Perth, got a job at a beautiful dairy farm near Pemberton, and started planning my road trip. I bought a Kawasaki KLR650. My initial plan was to ride it up to Darwin, but after just a short time on the road I was hooked and it soon escalated into a full lap of Australia. I dreamed of riding the legendary Gibb River Road, one of the main reasons I got the bike. Shortly after my arrival in Broome I met three other travelers with a similar idea. Before long, we had decided to share the experience together. On the first day, we had driven just over 100 km when we hit

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a rough patch of corrugation and thick dust. I lost control of the bike at 70-80 km/h. I awoke several hours later and didn’t remember what had happened. My travel mates said I was gone for 5-10 sec. I was adamant to get back on and keep going but I couldn’t get the bike to start. I began suggesting places we could camp for the night, but after a while I started talking nonsense. The boys realized something might not be right, bundled me in their car and drove me to Derby. On the way I made jokes, (probably bad), but kept repeating the same one. When I got to the hospital the doctors told them I had concussion. Physically I was fine except for a few bruises on my face, arms and legs. The hospital insisted on an emergency flight to Broome with the Royal Flying Doctor Service to ensure there was no permanent brain damage. Luckily, the results were fine and I was discharged the next morning.

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When I woke up in the hospital I hit a low point. I was alone, without my bike and due to the time difference I couldn’t even call my parents. I didn’t know anyone in Broome. The nurse that had been treating me the night before had finished her shift. I had never felt lonelier in my life. I felt like I had failed myself. I spent a day recovering and then travelled back to Derby. I arrived after dark and spent the night in a caravan park. The next morning, a helpful local called Darral drove me all the way back to where I had left the bike locked and in gear. But it wasn’t there. I was devastated and couldn’t believe it at first. My mind raced with ideas about where the bike might be. It wasn’t until after I filed a police report that the reality sunk in. Everything had changed. My dream of riding around Australia on a motorcycle was in the gutter. if it wasn’t for Darral, I would’ve been lost. He drove me to the towing places in town to see if they’d heard anything and kept my spirits high. The next morning he woke me with a cup of coffee. He helped me make posters and put them up all around town. In total he spent three days with me, every hour he wasn’t working he was helping me. His kindness inspired me, and kept the sadness at bay. After discovering that the bike was lost, I took to social media for help. I posted in the Gibb River Road Facebook page to see if anyone had seen or heard anything. While all the comments were incredibly supportive and kind, no one had any information on my bike. I received a message from a journalist from the ABC who offered to do an interview and a social media post. After that, the internet took my story under its wing. Almost 300 people shared my post and even more commented.

younger than what I’d had with a similar number of kilometers on the odometer. I called the person up and he was serious about giving me his bike! I was shocked. It is one thing to say it on social media and another to follow through in real life. He’d seen the post and didn’t want me to have a bad experience of Australia. A few days later, I was on the bus to Karratha to get the bike. The bus arrived at six in the morning and there was Novak and Amy to pick me up. They made me a beautiful breakfast, showed me around town, bought me lunch and dinner and didn’t even let me get the bill! When I saw the bike I burst into tears. It looked just like mine. I stayed the night at Amy’s parent’s house and by morning I was well rested and ready to move on. It felt fantastic to be embraced by the wide open road. I rode all the way back to Broome with the biggest smile on my face – thinking of all the kind, selfless strangers that had now become friends. I’m all about disconnecting and going into the wilderness, but none of this would have happened without social media. Around 40 kind and generous people offered me help. Before my bike was stolen I was enjoying seeing Australia, but I wasn’t feeling Australia. I was on a country, not in it. On reflection, I have realised that while I usually go for the nature, it’s always the people that create the most profound memories and greatest stories. What happened to me has changed the way I see Australia. I feel like I’m surrounded by friends, I feel carried by the kindness of little profile pictures on a website. And it’s the most beautiful thing.

I dreamed of riding the legendary Gibb River Road, one of the main reasons I got the bike.

My phone never stopped in the days after. Countless people offered help and support, from well wishes to accommodation. Three people offered to lend me their bike to finish my trip and two guys offered me their bikes for free! Even though I was a long way from home, sitting alone in a caravan park in Derby, I felt so connected and loved. I was in tears, absolutely overwhelmed by kindness. One of the bikes on offer was a Kawasaki KLR650, a year

ABOUT

Agnes Plesner Skaarup

Agnes is a 21-year-old woman visiting Australia from Denmark. She loves long distance hiking, riding motorbikes, reading books and connecting with people. Instagram: @aggieventures

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"I believe the world is incomprehensibly beautiful; - an endless prospect of magic and wonder." â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Happy Place Finalist

Hayley Moore Katherine Gorge (NT)

A N S E L

A D A M S

STAND UP PADDLE and

F O R

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E V E R Y O N E

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RAYS.COM.AU

Anatomy

of a ANATOMY OF A SUP

SUP

11.

Deck Deck

Breaking down the various elements of a SUP will helpdown you describe what you’re looking for in Breaking the various elements of a SUP a board, while also gaining insight into how will help you describe what you’re looking for inthe shape andalso features impact theinto board’s a board, while gaining insight how use. the shape and features impact the board’s use.

Quite simply, this is the top Quite simply, this is the top of your board. The deck may of your The deck may be fittedboard. with multiple pads be fitted with pads depending on multiple where you depending you wish wish to haveon thewhere most grip. This is also you’llThis findis also to have thewhere most grip. a leash cup for securing where you’ll find a leash cup for yourself to the board. securing yourself to the board.

22.

Bottom Bottom

9 9

5 5

2 2

Deck pad Deck pad

Leash cupcup Leash

This This is is the the fixture fixture installed installed into the deck into the deckofofthe theboard board that allows you to connect a that allows you to connect leash from your leg to the a leashTouring from your leg to the board. boards may board. Touringbe boards not necessarily fittedmay with a leash, but anyone wishing not necessarily be fitted to usea the board a surf with leash, butinanyone environment should have one. wishing to use the board in a surf environment should have one.

The The most mostforward forwardsection section of of your SUP shapedaccording your SUP is is shaped according to use. Sharp, to use. Sharp, narrow noses narrow noses are generally are generally seen in touringseen or in touring or race-oriented models, race-oriented models, while while curved more more curved nosesnoses perform perform better in the surf. better in the surf. If your board If your board is at risk of is at riskbumps of regular regular and bumps scrapes,and scrapes, ‘nose guards’ are ‘nose guards’ are available available certain models. for certainfor models.

Most SUPs will come with a Most SUPs will come with deck pad, which is the grip a deck where pad, which the surface you’ll isspend grip surface where you’ll most of your time standing spend most of time on the board. Asyour mentioned, other padson can beboard. fitted to standing the As the board for other specific use,can mentioned, pads such as surfing. be fitted to the board for specific use, such as surfing.

44.

Nose Nose

3 3

The bottom bottom of of the theboard, board, where you may where you may find findat at least one fin. The bottom is least one fin. The bottom is designed to be smooth and designed to bemovement smooth and hard for better hard for better as movement and protection it goes and protection as it goes through the water. through the water.

33.

7 8.

6 6

Handle Handle

Due the widthand and length Due toto the width of SUPs, it’s usually quite length of SUPs, it’s difficult to pick up and a usually quite difficult carry a board like you would to most pick up and a carry surfboards. For that a board like you models would will reason, many include at least For one handle most surfboards. installed the deck. that reason,on many

models will include at least one handle installed on the deck.

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6 Fin and fin fin box Fin and box

To improve stability further, To improve stability further, some SUPs may include a some SUPs may include a fin or fin or multiple fins (up to multiple fins (up to four). These four). These are installed are installed the of bottom into the into bottom the board of thevia board via a It’s fin important box. It’s a fin box. to take youroffin, important tocare takeofcare your particularlywhen whentouring, touring,as fin, particularly as they are vulnerable to they are vulnerable to damage damage from submerged from rocks submerged rocks and tree and tree branches. branches.

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Tail

Rocker Rocker

The rearmost section of the The rearmost section of the board also has an impact on board also has an impact on how the board boardhandles handlesininthe the how the water, with wider, wider,rounder rounder tails tails offering better stability offering better stability but less but less manoeuvrability. manoeuvrability. Also like the nose, the tail may Also like the nose, the tail may be susceptible to damage be damage andsusceptible so there aretosome ‘tail and guard’ accessories available so there are some ‘tail guard’ on the market. You may accessories available onalso the consider fitting your board market. You may also consider with a ‘tailpad’, which fitting your board with a provides better grip when ‘tailpad’, which provides standing at the rear of your better grip when standing at board (mostly relevant when surfing). the rear of your board (mostly relevant when surfing).

The rocker describes the the The rocker describes general curvature of the general curvature of the board or ‘hull’. You may board or ‘hull’. You may notice that a board can notice can appear tothat havea aboard flat deck, to have a flat deck, butappear a significant curve underneath. The greater but a significant curvethe curve, the less stable and underneath. The greater more manoeuvrable the the curve, the less stable board will be. and more manoeuvrable the board will be.

What's SUP? Tips for Beginners Thinking about trying a Stand Up Paddle board? Check out our helpful tips for first timers:

Fins

These need to be attached before you hit the water. Use an allen key to secure either at home or by the water. If travelling with the fins on, be sure to tie the board face down (fins up). Read the instructions or check online for demonstration videos.

Paddling Most of us understand the basic concept of paddling and can instinctively move forward, backwards, side to side, and turn around completely. But it remains an art that must be learned. If you are not sure watch a few videos first, stay in the shallows or practise in a pool until you are comfortable. Check that the paddle is adjusted and at the right length for you.

Transport Roof racks or a trailer and straps are best. It helps to have a buddy with you the first few time to assist with the lifting and tie/strap down, but with a bit of practice you will soon feel confident and capable to do it yourself. Learning to do it solo gives you the freedom to hit the water whenever you like and will help you to build your upper body strength (the Alexa Molokai SUP board from Rays is 14.5kgs and 10’4” long). Try to park or drop off close to the paddle location. The board can be cumbersome to carry until you get used to it. Make sure you lock away straps and be mindful of security if you are leaving the board for long periods.

Carrying the SUP Hold the board to the side of your body with your arm over and grip the middle cut out handle section (this is the easiest way unless you have a cover with an arm strap).

Weather & Water Conditions Just like surfing and most other water sports, your experience, and level of enjoyment, will depend on suitable weather conditions. Keep track of the forecast and ideally aim for no wind. If there is a breeze, make sure it’s gentle and try to stay in protected waters. Rivers, lakes, estuaries are ideal. Unless you are in a calm bay it is advisable to avoid the beach on your first attempt as swell can make it very challenging for beginners. If the coast is your only option then consider sunrise on a calm day when there is no wind.

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Wash Away the Salt

Stay in the Shallows

Once you are happy and exhausted, make sure you give all your gear a good rinse in fresh water and dry before storing.

Don't venture out too deep the first time. Ensure you are confident in your ability at that point in time, at that location, under those conditions before going further. The tide can take you out very quickly and it can be difficult to paddle back in.

Falling is Inevitable: Be Brave Be prepared to fall in the first few times. The more experienced and confident you become the less chance you will fall in. You’ll learn to read the conditions, your balance will improve each time and before long it will be a breeze.

Safety

Clothing Cooler weather is ideal for long adventures so layer up with bathers, wetsuit, long rashy or just light weight long sleeve top and pants.

• Be sure to tie down the board securely before transporting and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t move. If it does, stop and secure it again. • Be careful moving the board including on and off your vehicle. It is long and can easily knock a small child out or damage a nearby car or the board itself. • Keep the paddle away from heads. It really does hurt being smacked in the face with a paddle. Ouch! Be especially careful if you’re taking a young child for a ride. • Stick to the recommended weight for the type of board. • Never take children out unless you are confident in everyone’s ability to manage in those conditions. Always make sure children are supervised and stay in the shallows. Life vests are a good idea. • Always have your leg rope attached. • Tell someone your plans and paddle with a buddy when you can, especially if you are planning a longer adventure. • Be prepared. There are fantastic accessories available including waterproof vests/packs that hold water, keys, sunscreen, money and your smartphone. Booties, sandals and gloves can make the ride more bearable for your hands and feet.

Standing Up: Finding Your Balance Start in shallow water on your knees for at least 15 minutes. This allows you to feel safe and acclimatise. Slowly make your way up to standing and ensure your feet are equally positioned over the middle of the left and right sides of the board. Use your paddle in the water to help with balance. Always remember you can go down to your knees (or your bum) at any time, particularly for longer paddles, when another vessel passes, there is a bit of swell or when you feel nervous or tired. (Note that it is easier to balance if you stick to the recommended weight for the board).

Wiggle your Feet & Toes If you are paddling for a while your feet and toes can get locked into position while you try to balance. Over time they can cramp and ache so don’t forget to move them now and again. If they start to hurt, drop to your knees and paddle like you are in a kayak or canoe for a little while to give them a rest.

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Why We Love the SUP • Almost anyone can try it. • It doesn’t take long to master. • It can be very peaceful and relaxing. • You have the best vantage point for views and to hear the lapping of the waves, spot marine life, and breathe in the fresh salty air. • You can share the experience with friends and family. • It’s hours of entertainment, especially in the right conditions. • Great overall body (mostly gentle) workout. Particularly good for the core, upper body strength and balance. You can increase the workout with longer distances and faster paddling.

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Port Stephens

O U T D O O R

ADVENTURE MUMS In the picturesque Port Stephens area, Mums are using social media to coordinate and participate in inclusive adventure activities. The Port Stephens Outdoor Adventure Mums started in 2012 as a parent social group and evolved when it became apparent that several mums wanted to be outside, enjoying life and trying new things. About the group

waterways. TPL asked them what they

“I love the SUP, it's a fabulously social thing

We are all about making friends and sharing

thought about the experience:

to do. It's great for balance and stabiliser

a passion for the outdoors. Events can be

“Before the session I was a bit nervous but also

muscles, and you can get a great all round

excited because I was meeting new people.

workout when you get some speed up.” (Leaf)

Afterwards I felt like I'd achieved something. I

“The members of our group love to challenge

felt really pumped and wanted to do it again. It

themselves. It was a great moment when one

was super fun.” (Alysha)

of the girls managed a headstand with a little

“Honestly, beforehand I had to drag myself out

help from her friends.” (Leaf)

of the house with three monsters in tow. But

“I struggled with two things – once I got a

during and after, I was revitalised!” (Catherine)

rhythm of going straight I struggled to turn,

“Getting on the Alexa board was a breeze.

and when I finally turned, I struggled to go

Well balanced and easy to steer. It was lighter

straight. Practicing will help with this, and not

than I had imagined.” (Catherine)

having strong winds will too.” (Alysha)

don’t think any of us had attempted something

“I was excited. I have my own soft SUP, so I

“Before we started I was excited and perhaps

like it before. We went about training, buying

was really interested to see how the harder

a little nervous as the weather wasn’t looking

gear and setting ourselves up. Around 14

model handled. The board was fantastic.

great. During the session, I was concentrating

mums and five children completed the walk.

She turned very well, floated easily and the

really hard trying to remember where to put

What a feeling of achievement! Since then,

balance was really good. The ease of paddling

my feet. For some reason I started standing

many more hikes have been ticked off. Some

this board surprised me. She sat so well in the

like I was on a skateboard – until my husband

mums even managed to do the Overland Track

water and there was plenty of room for error. A

yelled from the shoreline to change my feet –

with kids!

lot of boards don’t have much give and when

boy did that make things easier!” (Clare)

your as uncoordinated as me you need some

“Once you are on and upright I was surprised

however. Simple things like trying out a Stand

give.” (Monique)

at how peaceful it was, you can look about and

Up Paddle (SUP) board, falling in the water and

“Being a keen surfer I was a bit dubious that

see so much in the water below you. I saw fish

getting back on whilst others stand giggling

a SUP would provide adequate excitement. I

and even a stingray. I felt like I was walking in

are just as rewarding and fulfilling. Sometimes

like it when my negative pre-perceived notions

the middle of the bay.” (Clare)

it’s about the friendship and social experience.

are disproved. I found the SUP both fun and a

“Now I realise that it is so easy to transport and

Sometimes it’s the acceptance that we are not

great workout. That being said, it can also be

I can do it all by myself. It’s light enough that

just ordinary mums: we are individuals.

very relaxing, another tick of approval.” (Leaf)

I can put it on the roof and strap it on without

Thanks to the generosity of Rays,

“I found getting a good balance point was

help.” (Clare)

Adventure Mums Clare, Alysha,

fairly easy when there's just yourself on it. Not

“Try it. It’s great fun. Don’t worry about falling

Catherine, Leaf and Monique won the

so easy when you add a wriggling child or a

in – it’s part of the learning process. The only

opportunity to trial the Alexa board from

couple of extra adults! But that's good for extra

thing you will regret is not doing it earlier.”

Rays, in the magnificent Port Stephens

giggles.” (Leaf)

(Clare)

created by anyone and vary from surfing, snorkelling, walking, abseiling, camping, hiking and anything in between. If someone knows how to do something we are happy to learn. Sometimes children can join in, other times mums rotate looking after the kids, and occasionally events are child free. Collectively, the group have had some amazing adventures. Three years ago one mum mentioned that a multi-day hike on the six Foot Track would be great. At the time, I

Not all our get togethers are as challenging

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Summer is in full swing and here at Rays we can’t help but get excited by the prospect of amazing adventures with a whole range of new gear to get you ‘out there’. rays.com.au

Keen Whisper Sandal Elastic cording gives this lightweight performance sandal a secure fit, making it easy to adjust in or out of the water. The washable upper makes cleaning easy, and the cushioned footbed provides comfort on the go. $149 99

Wolfskin 2 Jack Travel Hoody Tee

The Travel Hoody tee is a casual hoody ideal for summer use. Constructed with a soft, silky slub jersey, which is ideal for summer activities as it’s breathable and almost completely odour resistant. $89 99 Jack Wolfskin Pomona Shorts The light, fast drying nylon fabric feels as soft as cotton. And if it gets really hot, just roll the legs up a bit higher and fasten them in place. $109 99

Alexa SUP Board 3 Molokai It’s time to try the hottest sport on water

and get SUP-ing! The Alexa is super stable for all-round SUP conditions so you can paddle, ride waves and even set up your yoga session on the water. At 10’4”, this board also small enough to carry around. $1099

YETI Cooler 4 Soft Hopper Backflip 24

Is designed to efficiently distribute the weight of your goods, while the ergonomic shoulder straps make the journey more comfortable. Even more, a removable chest strap and waist belt are included for added stability and security. $449 95

5 Patagonia Logo Pastel

Responibili-Tee The manufacturing of this tee saves 238 litres of water when compared to that of a conventional cotton tee, so you can help save water while you shop. A simple crew-neck style perfect for your summer wardrobe. $59 95

Air Lite 26L 6 Deuter Day Pack Ideal

for hiking and travelling, this comfortable pack features AirMesh lining to help stop the sweat on those hot days in the great outdoors. The backpack is hydration compatible and has a detachable rain cover for when the weather is unpredictable! $179

Patagonia Happy Hike Shorts Made from abrasion resistant, 4 way stretch polyester/spandex that dries overnight, they have a low-rise waistband with belt loops and a hidden drawcord for adjusting. $79 95

*Range, styles & colours vary store to store. While stocks last. Not all products available in all stores.

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rays.com.au

L ayBneaechley Dave Gleeson - @surfshotsnoosa

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F R O M

Storyteller T O

Superstar INTERVIEW BY: TPL & LAYNE BEACHLEY

Confidence, self-belief and the drive to work several jobs sustained Layne Beachley’s early surf career. Now, in her mid-40s, she recently took home her eighth world surfing title, and her achievements don’t stop there. For years, Layne, along with other iconic advocates, have been making waves for women’s equality in sport. No doubt significantly contributing to this year’s decision by the World Surfing League (WSL) to provide equal pay for female surfers. For more than a decade, she has also made a significant contribution to supporting women and girls achieve dreams across a variety of disciplines through her own charitable foundation. We recently chatted with Layne during a break at one of her corporate surfing events. Congratulations Layne on your World Grand Masters

the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) for 15 years.

win and eighth world surfing title. You remain

Back in the early 90s, I took an avid interest in how the tour was being treated, directed and supported. I felt quite dissatisfied by how we were regarded by the governing bodies and so I took a proactive role in joining the board of directors. My mentor at the time was Pam Burridge and she also sat on the board. I naturally looked to see what she was doing because I also wanted to be a world champion.

one of the most successful and influential female pro surfers of all time. How long do you intend to compete for? Thank you. I am claiming that eighth one! I’ll compete for as long as they hold events and I’ve still got the physical capacity to do so. You’ve been a long-time advocate for women’s equality in surfing. You must be thrilled with the recent WSL decision. The tide is certainly changing for female athletes competing in all sporting professions. I’m extremely proud that WSL have jumped on the front foot and really set the standard, and the bar high, for the rest of the sporting world to follow. I didn’t expect to see it in my lifetime, to see the impact that it’s had, and to see how much the surfers respect and appreciate it. I’m extremely excited by it. In 2015 you became Chair of Surfing Australia and became the first female world champion to be appointed chairperson of a national sporting body. Can you tell us a bit about the role and how you got there? It really evolved from being on the board of directors for

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The majority of my time served on the ASP board was while I was winning world titles. It was extremely demanding and quite exhausting. It was all about time management, but I was pretty poor at that which is how I ended up with chronic fatigue syndrome. After I won my fifth world title, I established the Layne Beachley Foundation and took on a directorship role. When I retired, I was asked to join a couple of other boards and this led to my appointment to the Surfing Australia board in 2009. I was elevated to Chair in 2015 which took me by surprise! Sounds like you have a lot of responsibility. You must put a lot of time and effort into making good decisions? I’m really enjoying it, more than any other executive or directorship role I’ve had because I feel it’s best practise.

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Carol Gibbons - @carolgibbonsphotography

I’m learning a lot about business and strategy, financial acumen, relationships and governance. It’s been a very rewarding role and I’ll be disappointed when my tenure comes to an end. There’s been a fair bit of talk

I didn’t have any sponsors in the early days and so I had to become a storyteller to generate some publicity and that’s how it all started.

about sharks and surfing, but over your life you’ve never had an encounter. Feels like we know what you’ll say to the shark question! [laughing] Yes, next question. Actually, I have no fear of them. I understand they are out there, I’m conscious of that fact, but I’m not overly concerned about them. What are your thoughts on Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch? I love the Ranch. I’ve had the great honour of being invited to go and surf it. It was an amazing experience. It’s a phenomenal piece of technology. It’s certainly set the standard for wave pools and I would love to see the Olympics held in it one day because it’s an incredible wave to ride. It’s a lot more challenging than it looks too. Surfing at the Olympics will kick off in 2020 in Tokyo, Japan. What does this mean for the sport? It means being recognised as a truly global sport. It’s an opportunity for us to expose our sport, our athleticism and our enviable lifestyle to a much broader, global audience such as people who are landlocked and who may never have seen the sport. It increases the level of support and interest in participation. Olympic qualification is achieved through competing in the ISA World Surfing Games, as well as the top 8-10 surfers from the WSL tour. Is that right Layne?

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The best surfers in the world are on the WSL tour so the WSL have agreed to release the surfers to compete in the ISA events. Qualification is based on the top 8 women and top 10 male surfers on the WSL and then a win in the ISA world games can also earn you a spot in the Olympics.

Which Australian female surfing athletes should we keep our eye on? You currently have Steph Gilmore chasing you for her seventh world title! Steph is pretty phenomenal. Tyler Wright is one. Sally Fitzgibbons has just won a gold medal at the ISA world games so she would be in a good position if she does that again next year. Then there are the younger girls like Macy Callaghan, Bronte Macaulay and Nikki Van Dijk. The great thing is I am not worried about the women. We have tremendous depth in the female side of the sport. It’s the men I’m worried about. They just don’t seem to have the same level of hunger or drive that the girls do. Your foundation and Aim for the Stars scholarship program has spent the last 15 years mentoring and supporting 500 girls (and not just surfers). Can you tell us a little more about what you’ve achieved and why you’re winding up next year? A few years ago, we introduced an aggressive strategy for growth of the foundation. The objective was to free up my time, make the foundation more self-sustaining and allow me to step out. However, the strategy in the short term requires a lot more time than I can give it. I don’t do things by halves, so I had to make a decision. It was at a crucial point where it was either invest

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wholeheartedly and allow this thing to grow or reflect on the success we’ve had over the last 15 years and be satisfied. I realise I have now reached that point of satisfaction. It’s time to move on, and I feel extremely proud of what we’ve achieved. Are there any particularly rewarding moments that stand out for you? There were so many! It’s like asking a mother who’s your favourite child. An extraordinary number of community-minded women came through the program. I think I am most proud of the legacy and the impact I’ve had on the lives of so many girls, giving them self-confidence and belief in themselves. To dare them to dream and pursue an audacious goal and then find a like-minded community of women who support them and stay connected for the rest of their lives. This isn’t just a fleeting moment where we hand them a few thousand dollars and say thanks for coming. We stay connected with them forever. I’m really proud of that legacy, the relationships we’ve built in this charity and many success stories whether it’s Stacey Copas, Caroline Buchanan, Carly Findlay or Daisy Cox. I mean, there are just so many talented girls! As a motivational speaker and coach you help others to achieve professional and personal goals. What’s next for Layne? Very good question. I want to write another book and help people become champions in their own life. I want to do this on a global scale, requiring me to be really strategic and clear about what that looks like and how I wish to achieve it. As a speaker, a workshop facilitator, and an executive mentor, I know I have the ability to positively influence and impact people’s lives and I generate a lot of satisfaction and reward from doing that. Travelling the world, sharing my life stories and inspiring people is my main focus and passion. That sounds rough, a bit like your own dream tour! Yeah, pretty rough isn’t it? I kinda fell into the role. People ask me “How did you become a speaker?” and I reflect on my career and think: you know what, I didn’t have any sponsors in the early days and so I had to become a storyteller to generate some publicity and that’s how it all started. It’s taken some time and I’m still evolving. Your husband is musician Kirk Pengilly so we have to ask… what’s your favourite INXS song?

Kirk Pengilly @kirkpengilly_offical

Layne Beachley Keynote Speaker, Author, Facilitator www.laynebeachley.com In retirement, Layne spends her time travelling nationally and internationally as a motivational keynote speaker, trainer and facilitator, igniting potential in everyone she works with. Layne is an Officer of the Order of Australia. Layne Beachley Foundation www.laynebeachleyfoundation.org.au Formed to encourage, motivate and provide for all aspiring women. The Aim for the Stars scholarshp program supported diverse dreams including sport, music, arts, science, sustainability, business and leadership. Superstar achievers include: • 25 olympians and paralympians • 14 world champions • 3 individuals nominated for Young Australian of the Year • 5 United Nations presenters Surfing Australia www.surfingaustralia.com Surfing Australia is the representative body on the International Surfing Association (ISA) of which there are 86-member countries. It is recognised by the Australian Sports Commission, the Australian Olympic Committee and is a member of the Water Safety Council of Australia. Surfing underpins an important part of the Australian coastal fabric. It forms part of a lifestyle in which millions participate with a mystique in which millions more have a documented interest.

Lastly, what is the one thing that helps you to be the happiest you can be every day? That one thing you’d prefer not live without? This is an easy one: my board surfboard! I can’t live without surfing daily. It certainly keeps me happy, gives me energy, balances my body, mind and soul, keeps life in perspective, and provides me with a daily dose of bliss. In the event I am away from the surf or the ocean, I must immerse myself in nature such as sitting in the sun, turning my face up to the rain, or walking barefoot in the grass. Taking time out for me makes me happy.

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Kirk Pengilly @kirkpengilly_offical

Don’t Change along with Johnson’s Aeroplane.

Russell Hoover - @russellhoover

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"I am most proud of the legacy and the impact Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had on the lives of so many girls, giving them self-confidence and belief in themselves.â&#x20AC;?

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Is your daughter reading bella rae? ordinary women pursuing their passions, starting businesses, overcoming hardships

Whether she is bold, loud and outdoorsy, or quiet, thoughtful and creative, at some point your daughter will find herself on a wild adventure – adolescence.

and exploring their talents and creativity.

She will find expert advice on relevant issues such as study stress and friendships; practical wisdom on navigating relationships, fitness and wellbeing; recipes, arts and craft.

We are here to help her on that journey. bella rae is an Australian quarterly print magazine for young women.

She will ﬁnd diversity, including young women with diﬀerent body shapes, skin tones and ethnicities.

bella rae means beauty and grace. When we talk about beauty we focus on character and the beauty of the soul, rather than outward appearance. In the pages of bella rae your daughter will ﬁnd a vibrant collection of real stories – featuring

She will not ﬁnd any body shaming, sexualised young people, swear words, celebrity gossip or sex tips or an overload of advertising.

Support your daughter on her adventure. Subscribe now: bellaraemag.com/subscribe.

magazine

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5 Thrive to

L I S A

M E S S E N G E R

Collective Hub

WORDS BY: TPL & LISA MESSENGER IMAGES BY: SCOTT EHLER

We love talking with high profile women about their happy places and how they find ways to disconnect from their busy schedules and reconnect with nature. We chatted with Lisa Messenger, Founder of Collective Hub, to discover what helps her stay inspired.

1. Collective Hub launched as a magazine in 2013 and is now a global multimedia powerhouse. Even though you are winding up the print mag do you still reach for one in your leisure time? I absolutely LOVE print. It is my go to almost above all else. With so much online noise there is nothing more relaxing than to curl up in the sun on my couch with a great print mag or book. I think print will always be my first love. 2. You've mentioned your Collective Retreat near Byron Bay. Do you have other ways and places that help you take a break and reconnect with yourself? Ohhhh yes. I now have a mobile business so I can travel into regional areas and I’m often off the grid. I like to immerse myself in nature, different cultures, places and spaces for inspiration. I spend a lot of time in Bali to totally chill, relax, unwind and have a bit of a spiritual immersion. I also enjoy wild, action packed adventures like a recent trip to New Zealand’s South Island. I am looking forward to going to the UK, Denmark, Sweden and skiing in France in December. 3. You’ve previously quoted Emma Henderson, co-founder and director of the Beach People who said, “Live the life you want to live now… don’t wait or say ‘once this or that happens, I will be this kinda person’. Be the person and live the kinda life you want today.” Are you living that life now Lisa? Have things changed for the positive since the pivot of Collective Hub? Yes and yes. My purpose hasn’t changed one bit since I launched Collective Hub. Being a creative, a visionary, loving freedom, being in flow, having a HUGE global business with a lot of very big fixed costs just meant I was tied to it day in and day out and stuck in systems and processes. So, I very consciously and purposefully decided to break things for a while and I feel more on purpose and freer than ever. Watch this space – my next book will be out mid next year and is all about how you can work according to your own lifestyle needs. Bigger isn’t necessarily better and there are smarter, more liberating ways to work so you don’t become a slave to your business. 4. After you interviewed The Minimalists you were inspired to give away six bags of your clothing and belongings, and then an item a day for 30 days. How did that go? Did it change you? Oh so much. The funny thing is that pre-Collective Hub I used to buy a lot of ‘stuff’. I think I was filling a void. When I found my purpose I had this huge urge to be free and unencumbered. I couldn’t care less about ‘stuff’. Give me an experience any day! 5. What’s the one thing that helps you to be the happiest you can be everyday? What do you prefer not to live without? I do love my dog Benny, my partner and our beautiful families but the ‘things’ that I’d miss the most would be plants, nature and because I LOVE working, my ‘yoga’ laptop which goes everywhere with me so I can write whenever I get inspired.

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A V O I D

T H E

C O M P A R I S O N

In Adventure & in Life

T R A P

WORDS & IMAGES BY: JEN BROWN

We’ve all been there. You’re enjoying a day out with friends. The sun is shining and the laughter is flowing. Then suddenly, for no apparent reason, you’re comparing yourself to the woman next to you, calculating how much faster/fitter/stronger/better she is. Instantly you’re left with that dreaded feeling in the pit of your stomach and the voice inside your head that says ‘not good enough’. It happens in other situations too. You’re invited to join a training session or adventure and either say ‘yes’ reluctantly or say ‘no thanks’ for the same reason; the voice in your head has proclaimed you aren’t fit enough and you’re going to be that annoying person who holds everyone up. Again, it’s the voice of ‘not good enough’. That voice you hear; that’s your Inner Critic. It’s the result of a range of factors; from human evolution, social conditioning and even the way you were raised. It’s the voice that says you aren’t the one to lead, to apply for the promotion, to ask for the raise, to take on a bigger role, to speak up in meetings, to ride the technical singletrack, to descend a hill fast on your bike, to enter that race, to try a new sport. It’s the voice that says you aren’t qualified enough, smart enough, experienced enough, goodat-x-enough. Any time you slip into that comparison spiral, yep, you guessed it – say hello to your Inner Critic. Now, the role of your Inner Critic is to keep you safe and away from anything it considers to be too risky (whether that’s physical, mental or emotional risk). So sometimes listening to your Inner Critic is the smart thing to do. You wouldn’t be here today

if your ancestors had ignored their Inner Critic, taken too many risks and been eaten by a sabre tooth tiger. However, there are times we listen to, and are held back by, our Inner Critic in situations where the real risk (as opposed to the perceived risk) is low. What’s the real risk to you in the moment when you’re comparing yourself to the woman riding/swimming/walking beside you? Zero. What’s the real risk to you when you’re invited on a group outing and you are the slowest person? Slim to nothing. So our challenge is to identify when to listen to our Inner Critic and when to ignore it. The good news is that everyone has an Inner Critic, so you aren’t alone. The bad news? You’ll never get rid of it. This is why waiting until you feel ‘more confident’ or ‘faster’ will leave you on the sidelines of life for a long time. Because if you haven’t developed a working relationship with your Inner Critic, it won’t matter how much faster/fitter/stronger/ better you get; you’ll never see yourself as ‘enough’.

A working relationship with your Inner Critic is one where you can hear what she has to say and either choose to take her advice on board, or push it to the side and keep going. You can learn to live with your Inner Critic, but not be held back by it. It’s easier said than done of course. But there are steps you can take to quieten your Inner Critic so you can get on with life. Name it The first step in learning to live with your Inner Critic is to see it as something separate from yourself. It’s a part of you, but it’s not you. The easiest way to start is to refer to your Inner Critic in the third person; using words like ‘she’ or ‘her’. I often say ‘my Inner Critic is freaking out right now’ as opposed to ‘I’m freaking out right now’. It’s a small, but powerful, change. Another option is to give her a name; ‘Barbara is freaking out right now’ (no offence to any Barbara’s reading!). Anything you can do to see your Inner Critic as a separate identity will help to turn the volume down. Stick her in a box Compartmentalising your Inner Critic is

another good strategy. I picture my Inner Critic as a little gremlin sitting on my right shoulder (always my right shoulder for some reason!). When she’s loudly screaming in my ear, I see myself extending my arm and pushing her away from me. Once she’s further away, her voice isn’t as loud and I’m able to think more clearly. One client visualises herself locking her Inner Critic in the car when she heads to a race. Her Inner Critic can say whatever she likes on the drive, but she’s not allowed out of the car and she’s certainly not allowed to take part in the race. Former professional triathlete Lisa Bentley on Sparta Chicks Radio suggested picturing yourself putting your fears (essentially your Inner Critic) in a knapsack and tying it to the top of a tree or leaving it on top of a mountain. You can go back and get it after your race or adventure, but if you carry it with you, it’s only going to weigh you down. How will you leave your Inner Critic behind today?

easy tactic is to tell your Inner Critic: ‘thanks, but I’ve got this’. Make it your new motto. Remind your Inner Critic – and yourself – that you’ve heard her concerns but you’re going ahead with it anyway because, (repeat after me), ‘I’ve got this’. The highlight reel We all know this, and yet we continue to do it (myself included). We compare our ‘everyday’ life and our mess to other people’s highlight reel. We only share the ‘highlight’ reel with the world: the new personal bests, the shoes, the views, the smiles, the post-workout coffee and the times we look and feel good. We don’t share photos of ourselves sitting on the bathroom floor, snotty-nosed and tear-stained after getting injured, taking a

The first step in learning to live with your Inner Critic is to see it as something separate from yourself. It’s a part of you, but it’s not you.

Don’t believe everything you think Your Inner Critic is telling you a story; an interpretation of the situation that’s most likely to keep you safe.

So don’t automatically believe everything your Inner Critic says. For example, I’m pretty sure no-one has ever died from embarrassment (but how many times have you thought or said that?). Take a moment and a deep breath, then try to assess the accuracy of what she’s saying. What’s the real risk? Is it true? How likely is it to happen? What’s the real-life worst-case scenario? Take time to examine what she’s saying and then (if it’s going to help you), take her advice on board. But if it doesn’t help or it’s only weighing you down, push it aside and keep going. Thanks, but I’ve got this Once you’ve decided to push your Inner Critic aside and keep going, a simple and

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tumble, getting fired or failing to finish a race. So it’s easy to feel isolated and alone in your fears and your tears. I’m not suggesting that #snottyselfies become the next trending hashtag. But I encourage you to remember you only see what people want you to see. Even those of us committed to #keepingitreal and greater vulnerability still want to be seen in a certain light and control our public persona accordingly. Comparison – whether you’re out on the trail or in the boardroom – rarely serves you. And any thoughts that don’t serve you are only going to sabotage you. Be more loyal When you catch yourself listening to your Inner Critic, slipping into that comparison spiral or saying ‘no’ to invitations you

want to accept, ask yourself: What’s more important to me – my goals or my fears? The human brain was designed to keep you alive and safe from sabre tooth tigers. While that threat no longer exists, the hardwiring is still there, and today it’s dictating whether you’re going to be embarrassed if you’re too slow. Yes, there are times to exercise caution and play it safe. But don’t assume your Inner Critic is correct or that you need to follow it. Ask yourself: what’s more important – your fears or your goals? Friends love and accept Your friends have invited you because they want YOU; for your company, for your whipsmart sense of humour, for your laughter and for your ability to solve the world’s problems. And they probably have a fair idea about your fitness and ability (let’s face it – we talk about it most of the time). So if it’s an opportunity that sounds like fun and you want to do it, just say ‘yes’. Don’t overthink it. Use facts, not stories If you’re making plans with a group of people you don’t know, use facts and not stories to describe your fitness and experience. For example, “I generally cover x distance in x time”. Don’t share your stories like “I’m really slow”, “I’m at the back of the pack”, “I’m only…”, “I’m just…”. These stories not only downplay your fitness and ability, they also reinforce (in your own mind) whatever lies your Inner Critic has told you. Besides, they aren’t helpful to someone who is trying to understand your fitness, skills or capabilities. Learning to live with your Inner Critic takes time. She’s often opinionated and loud. So the next time you’re slipping into that comparison trap, test out some of these strategies. When you learn to live with your Inner Critic, but not be held back by her, it’s much easier to say ‘yes’ to adventure. And there are so many more adventures waiting for you!

Jen Brown

Jen Brown is a Trail Running and Triathlon Coach and the founder of Sparta Chicks, an online community and coaching business that helps women in endurance sports and outdoor adventures to chase their dreams with less fear and more confidence. She is also host of the popular podcast, Sparta Chicks Radio. www.spartachicks.com

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T H E

R I V E R

T heSea Audrey and Me

WORDS BY: HAYLEY TALBOT IMAGES BY: AL MACKINNON

There lies within every woman a whisper. A precious voice, so often talked over the top of, drowned out by society and conditioning. In generations past so many of these voices have gone unsung to the grave. So many melodies unheard, so many greatnesses undone (or at least, uncredited). In every generation there have been those who have created the acoustics for quiet voices, who have carved a chorus of change. declarations of peril, challenge, daring, conquest. No guarantee of making it. Just trying toward.” - Audrey Sutherland, Paddling North

One such woman for me was Audrey Sutherland. I never knew or met her, but I read about her. She died in 2015, about a year before I realised she was a neighbour of my Aunty in Hawaii. Sliding doors. She has some classic one-liners. I recall chuckling at her view that being stuck indoors at her desk job made her “soft, white and mean” and that she yearned to escape to the wild to be “hard, brown and kind”. Her adventure motto was, “Go Simple. Go Solo. Go Now” which I have absorbed myself, on a completely cellular level. She raised four children as a single mother, took up paddling in her 60s, and proceeded to paddle over 8000 miles of

She was a gourmet forager. She’d gather mussels and limpets, always had garlic and lemon in her kit, and she’d stuff a bottle of wine in the nose of her boat. She would put wildflowers in her boot laces to make her smile on the odd occasion she felt lonely or needed a morale boost on her broad open water crossings. She talked gently to grizzly bears and gave-way to wolves.

pretty doable.

She taught me to collect and carry out rubbish in the wild, and to never leave a campfire without collecting wood for the next person. I did this the entire way down my 400 km solo river journey. Even though I knew there wouldn’t be people following me down the river any time soon, in my own little way, I honoured Audrey. One day people will burn wood I laid for them too.

“Adventure. The word is ad-venture, to venture toward. No big

I marvelled at how highly-skilled she committed herself to being

the Alaskan wilderness over the ensuing 22 years until her death. She made me believe that as a mother of two children, taking up kayaking as a 30-year-old, and being the first person to solo kayak an un-navigable 400 km river surviving off the river and land, was

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in the outdoors. It inspired me to set a high bar in my own preparation. As a mother, she embodied courage and leadership. She wrote a no-punches-pulled list of things: “What Every Kid Should Be Able To Do By Age Sixteen.” I sheepishly realised I couldn’t do half of what she’d sent her children out into the world knowing. I assumed knowledge of the list and am ensuring my sons will walk on from me knowing how to do the same too. She valued manners, know-how, and real-world proficiency above all else.

close it felt they would carry me away. I have laid among howling

“The only real security is not insurance or money or a job, not a house and furniture paid for, or a retirement fund, and never is it another person. It is the skill and humor and courage within, the ability to build your own fires and find your own peace.”

to live the life of another woman, or desiring to be her. The words

- Audrey Sutherland

who we are yet, but as we grow we learn that these synapses are

She understood nature as the epicentre of connection. Firstly with nature itself, then with ourselves, and then with others. Grounding us so we in turn feel grounded and can be grounding to those in our orbit. She understood the environment and its effects on our biochemistry. She knew connection in nature was a journey of return.

deep and dormant revelations. Signposts on our own, untrodden

Sometimes I wonder whether I was a poet first, or whether I went out into the wild and became one. Solitude in nature does that to a person. Plato once mused, “At the touch of love, everyone becomes a poet”. I think it equally true of the wild. I have fallen asleep to the sounds of dolphins herding fish into the bank, so

(I know you know I just totally paraphrased that). Women flow and

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dingoes and osmosed their song. I have navigated blind in the dead of the night and in fog so thick I was a ghost. I speak the language of water. I have hated and loved the stars. I have been to the place where rivers are born and journeyed to where they give birth to the sea. I read Audrey’s books. And then I went and wrote my own. The thing I’ve learned about role models is that it’s not about trying and actions of others can only resonate with us if they’re already inside us. As younger women we can mistake these reverberations for jealousies and envies and threats because we’re not sure of

path. In this way we are connected, we follow in the wake of those who have come before us, and keep the surface tension broken for those who come after us. Heraclitus once said, “No woman can step into the same river twice. For it is not the same river, and she is not the same woman.” pour themselves out like rivers. I journey them to journey myself. I know I will never arrive. Just like Audrey, I will paddle my line out beyond death. Out on the water she has shown me how to be a woman that time cannot touch.

Hayley Talbot

Hayley Talbot is an expedition kayaking author and mother of boys. She is passionate about promoting the remedial power of nature, the elevation of women, and protecting the wild places she plays in. www.hayleytalbot.com

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Is Disconnection

T H E

W AY

T O

GET CONNECTED WORDS & IMAGES BY: SPUTNIK

If there’s one piece of popular philosophy that annoys the shit out of me it’s the whole ‘Anything is possible’ thing. I know it’s supposed to be uplifting and inspiring but I call ‘bullshit’. You and I both know it’s simply not true. By definition it literally can’t be.

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’d pondered this for many years across all the writing and speaking I’d done before eventually creating my own alternative: ‘Awesome is possible’. This sat much better with me. Sure, there are some things we may not be capable of (the list is long for me!), but there’s always something awesome I can do. The expression of possibility resonates with me, and inspires me more knowing it’s not just lip service but actually true. Actually possible.

good as that person’s photos. Hell, I even suffer it writing for this

I toyed with this thought for quite some time before this year launching an event I called ‘Awesome August’. The concept was simple: Do something awesome in August and get the medal to prove just how awesome you are. A bit like when people run races and get a medal at the end. The rules were simple: there were no rules. In fact, the theme was ‘Awesome Unlimited’ and the two core foundations were ‘Make your own rules’ and ‘Live beyond expectation’.

rules and expectations. Sure, some of them are learned courtesy

magazine. Every issue I see someone who I think or even know writes better than me. Chooses better topics. Uses more beautiful language. Who the heck am I to be writing and sharing ideas with you when there are better, smarter more articulate people than me out there? It’s brutal. For all the barriers put in our way by others, I’m pretty sure the greatest obstacle in our paths to being really happy are our own of what goes on around us – for men right now ‘toxic masculinity’ is the buzz-phrase, and arguably the reason we are killing others and ourselves in horrifically increasing numbers. But ultimately it’s us that gets to decide whether we continue to live by those rules; those expectations. Or change things up,

...we’re so busy being connected to anything and everything and everyone, we’ve forgotten to be connected to the most important thing of all: ourselves.

The truth is, I wasn’t sure if anyone would actually even 'get it’, but get it they did. We had people swimming, running, walking, sleeping (yes, really!), studying more, try surfing, purchasing less activewear, recovering from cancer… the list went on. My hope had been that people would truly disconnect from the expectations of what they thought was ‘awesome enough’ to consider themselves awesome. Some struggled with it, and even emailed me to say, “I can’t think of anything awesome enough that deserves of a medal”. Which was a bit shit, because it meant they’d missed the whole point and were judging themselves by expectations and standards that made them feel less than. And bugger that. Please know, I’m not really a fan of the modern day ‘every player wins a prize’ mentality. I think it’s important, critical even, to push and strive, learn and grow, dream and just generally be more and better than we were yesterday. But I’m also a fan of feeling good enough in the meantime. In the now. Of living in that paradoxical place where we’re happy being who we are – and trying to be better than we are. Where we are happy with the things we’ve already achieved and want to achieve more. Being happy with the things we’re capable of, and striving to be capable of more. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t yet live in that place. Like most of us, I’m still working on it. I constantly feel less than. I constantly suffer from ‘imposter syndrome’. Feeling like my adventures aren’t really as adventurous as that person’s adventures. My photos aren’t as

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and be different. Better. It’s us that gets to disconnect from the stuff we’ve inherited and learned along the way, and reconnect with who we really are. I have to say, I’m not really into all that fluffy, cosmic ‘the universe will provide’ malarky, but I do happen to believe that we’re so busy being connected to anything and everything and everyone, we’ve forgotten to be connected to the most important thing of all: ourselves. Not the utopian image of ourselves we have and think we should be, but our actual, truest, purest selves. Before all that other stuff gets in the way. For me personally, it’s only when I’m out

there, maybe hiking, running trails, on the open road, or in the clear air, that I remember to breathe and dream. I remember who I really am. Who I was before I decided to live by the rules given to me by others. Before I crumbled under the weight of expectation – and not just the expectations of others – but my own. How ironic, that it’s only when I’m disconnected, that I’m truly connected to the one thing that matters the most: myself. When I remember that awesome doesn’t have to be limited to the actions of the elite few, and inevitably, the people I think are better than me. What if we could all be awesome? Even better, what if we all already are? That doesn’t preclude us being awesomer of course. But what if all it took to believe that, to feel that, not later, but right bloody now, was to genuinely disconnect from everything that’s been constructed around us, simply make our own rules, and live beyond expectation?

Sputnik

Sputnik is an internationally awarded Creative Director who loves exploring, writing, taking photos and the relentless pursuit of WOW. He believes in making waves, blazing trails and being awesome to each other. www.ootw.com.au

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connect

T O

P R O T E C T

WORDS & IMAGES BY: TERRA ROAM

Now more than ever it’s important we reconnect or stay connected with Nature. We seek new experiences in Nature which transform and challenge us – escape, solitude and wilderness. The more we go to Nature the more we must be aware of our impact. We want to protect what we love, and make informed decisions to ensure the quality of our Nature experience. I began walking, cross country skiing solo in zoned alpine wilderness, and off track in 1989. SInce then, each time I returned to, or crossed the path of, popular places and tracks it alarmed me that park use has increased faster than the infrastructure needed to sustainably support the numbers of visitors. So I returned to university as a mature aged student to study Ecotourism and Conservation Ecology, in the hope that I could protect and enhance our Nature experience. Throughout many years of living in Nature and the wilderness, I’ve concluded that the most sustainable way for us to continue our quest for adventure and wild experience is to connect with our whole body, mind and soul. The more we are in tune with our environment, the more we can understand and respect it. And the best way to do this is full sensory immersion. During one of the more isolated outback stages of my walking tour around Australia, I began to think about how and why we, as a society, have disconnected. We have simply lost touch. We have forgotten the feeling of dirt on our feet; lying in the cool water of a creek; listening to the waves, wind and birds; finding and eating bush tucker and wild weeds; smelling the Earth and all her heady and subtle fragrances; watching wild animals without trying to interact with them. Beneath these basic senses are many others which help to create unforgettable memories of how sweet it feels to be connected to Nature.

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Terra Roam

In October 2018 Terra kicked off Roam 4 Eva, a two-year and 20,000 km bike tour around Australia. Throughout the journey, Terra will share her experiences through video, blogging, interviews, photo galleries and social media. Roam 4 Eva is a platform to promote ethical, sustainable and responsible adventure travel – supporting informed and conscious connections with Nature, conservation, culture and community. www.patreon.com/terraroams

“To the world you may be just one person, but to one person you may be the world.” –

B R A N D I

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Wombat

DOG T H E

A D V E N T U R E

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WORDS & IMAGES BY: LUCY BARNARD

Hiking along the desert of Chile is a truly unique experience. The ocean is teeming with life on one side, and the earth has cracked from dry heat on the other. Inland, we reach isolated towns brought to life by underground river systems that have supported communities for generations. With dog in tow, much of the day is spent

or I can mend my feet without him licking.

teaching Wombat where he needs to walk

So what on Earth provoked me to get

and redirecting his play drive.

a dog?

On breaks, we head into the water or

The benefits of having a dog outweigh the

climb along the cliffs where I teach him

energy toll, and the additional weight of

to climb onto my shoulders when it’s too

food and water.

high for him to jump.

As a solo female adventurer, the highest

The pinnacle of all of these moments

priority of what I want from a dog is safety.

though is finding Wombat curled up in the

Aside from an obvious visual deterrent,

shade, unconscious.

the Blue Heeler is a protective breed.

In times of unconsciousness, I don’t have

Since he was three months old he has

to wonder if he’s chewing on a toy or a

sounded warning barks when something

shoe, or stop him rummaging through

approaches our tent, and bares his hackles

rubbish full of parasites. I can spend time

at strangers who approach too closely.

repairing equipment without him tugging,

Yes, logistics have become exponentially

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more complicated regarding border crossings and day to day activities, but having someone watching my back has vastly improved my mental state. The best thing about having an adventure dog though are the moments of seamless communication and companionship. Below the surface of a glance shared between us is an entire conversation – whether it be checking in on each other, a call for play, a warning, or a guilty omission that I’m up for a new pair of shoes. While all this is challenging in an environment as inhospitable as the desert, it’s also far more enjoyable sharing an experience than reflecting on it alone.

Lucy Banard

In February 2017, I began a journey to become the first woman to walk the length of the world. It’s a 30,000 km journey from the bottom of Argentina to the top of Alaska. It will take between 3 to 5 years to complete and when I do, I’ll be the first woman and one of only a handful to ever have completed it. www.tanglesandtail.com

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Finding a

SENSE

Self of

WORDS BY: HEATHER PORTER IMAGES BY: RAY ESTRADA

“You’re so brave”, people said when I told them I was quitting my job to spend six months alone hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. The United States thru-hike is 4,265 km long, walking from the borders of Mexico to Canada through the States of California, Oregon and Washington. For me, bravery wasn’t a factor in deciding to do the trip. It was just time, I was ready. As soon as I stumbled across the Pacific Crest Trail it consumed me. I thought to myself, “this is so wild it might just work”. I wasn’t feeling lost or desperate when I decided to hike, instead I was curious, empowered, and adventure seeking. I wanted to know what it felt like to live in the wilderness. I wanted to meet who I’d be at the end. After 177 long days, I reached the border of Canada and can now reflect on just who I have become in that time.

had constant blisters, pack chafing, muscle aches and fatigue. I was living the adventure. The longer I spent away from society the more I felt myself. I was no longer influenced by edited images, but by the rise and fall of the sun each day, the animals who took no interest in what I was wearing, and my fellow thru-hikers who had also not properly bathed in weeks. I laughed often, I cried often. I thought long and hard about my friends and family. I brainstormed how I could spend more time outside once I returned home.

Six months of learning how strong I was, what I could achieve, how happy I could be.

The trail was rough. I survived heat waves in the Southern Californian desert, and whiteout blizzards in the Sierra Nevada mountain range. I was turned around by four wildfires and forced to walk long, unmaintained alternate routes. I passed bears, snakes and spiders. I

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The further I walked down the trail the deeper I felt it was part of me. It was continuous and constant beneath my feet. For months I followed the thin dirt line to Canada, to the real me. She is grubby, grinning, sore

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and totally invincible. I experienced true inner peace. Peace with where I was, what I was doing, and how I was living, in the woods, cut off from the world. There were no mirrors, or makeup and razors. No one cared, everyone was equal. Six months of learning how strong I was, what I could achieve, how happy I could be. It was incredibly empowering. It’s still hard to capture just how it feels to truly belong somewhere, but it’s nice to know that I’ve personally experienced it before. I expected to feel lonely and isolated, to have relaxing afternoons at camp, to be scared at night and to be caught in terrible storms. This wasn’t the case. Instead, I formed strong lifelong friendships. I hiked long and hard, usually arriving at camp just in time to eat, sleep, hike, repeat. I met people from all around the world and reset my standards of what a ‘normal’ life looked like.

for nature and the environment, and I now value what I can achieve when I try. I learnt that it’s not always about the destination, but the journey. I would describe myself as aggressively goal driven and a finisher of what I start. When it looked like I might run out of time to finish the trail because of snow and fire delays, I made peace with that; something the old me would have never done. I learnt to reset my expectations of myself. At the end of the day, a hill was still a hill, regardless of how many months I’d been hiking. I realised it’s a metaphor for my workload back home, an overfull schedule will still be exhausting, no matter how good I was at juggling.

Every time I sit by flowing water, or look out over a view I connect with a small part of me.

With so much time to think I learnt a lot about myself. I expected to come home changed, but instead I came home with a deeper understanding of my existing values. I value working with purpose, I value my family and friends, I value my body and health, I value activism

The trail didn’t answer all my questions, but it gave me perspective to start asking new ones. How do I continue living this best life? How do I express the love I feel for the environment and myself? How do I stay this person I’ve become? How do I help others find this version of themselves? Every time I sit by flowing water, or look out over a view I connect with a small part of me. She only ever appears when the air is fresh, and the soil is soft. She is kind, full of love, and she is curious. I encourage you to find her too.

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Heather Porter

Heather Porter is an experienced adventurer who has hiked, kayaked and biked in Australia, New Zealand and the United States. Leaving her job and home in Sydney for six months, Heather hiked the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada in 2018. www.thisramblingrover.com

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The

Adventures

Do you remember getting postcards from loved ones recounting snippets of their latest adventures? Here at TPL, we love to get updates from our tribe on what’s keeping them busy. Whether it’s planning an epic trip, being on the road, or reflecting on achievements, we like to stay in touch and share in the excitement.

MONIQUE “Challenge Number 1 is set for January 19 and 20. The plan is to paddle 60 kms on my Stand Up Paddle board in the Myall Lakes. It's so exciting and kinda overwhelming to see how much support the campaign is getting. Thank you to everyone who is joining me, crewing me and helping me come up with some amazing plans to raise awareness and say No to Domestic Violence. I cannot do all of this without the incredible support from far and wide. Come follow me to see how we are going, the challenges we have planned and my video diary along the way.” www.facebook.com/10in10for10000/

: Bue n Pus hing The Way

C a m ino

HELEN & LISA TPL Women’s Adventure Grant Recipients “At exactly midday, we made it to the cathedral with the bells chiming. Despite the rain, the square was still packed with pilgrims glad to have arrived. It hasn’t really sunk in yet what we’ve achieved. Over 250 km (13 days) of pushing. It was most amazing that we didn’t have any major mechanical or shoulder issues. Since arriving, we’ve bumped into so many pilgrims we met on the track purely by chance. We’ve enjoyed catching up with people and having a drink. I think it will take a while for this to all sink in. We’d definitely like to come back for another Camino!” www.pushingtheway.com

10 Challenges, 10 My, $10,0 00 Campaign

CAROLINE “After a 440 km hike in three-and-a-half weeks we have completed the entire track end-to-end. That was a few hours ago. It’s still feeling quite surreal that I’ve actually finished this walk. After many many, many tiny little steps, suddenly I’ve crossed the finish line! Currently I have lost all sense of time, and being back in civilisation with so many people and buildings is weird! It’s been an amazing adventure. There’s a combination of physical, emotional and mental challenges, and each takes over at some point. Can’t wait to do it again soon.” www.greatwalksoftheworld.weebly.com

Hume and Hovell Track (NSW)

LEIGH & CLARISSA “It took two thousand kilometers of hiking, packrafting, and push carting to reach the Arctic Ocean. When we arrived at the Arctic Ocean sign, the winds were 60 km an hour and it was minus 20 degrees. It felt surreal. After four-and-a-half months, it was over and you don’t want to stop. I’m still adjusting. The only thing that makes sense to me is the wilderness. I’m having to slowly reintegrate back into mainstream living and already planning our next adventure: Newfoundland!” (Leigh) www.remoteleigh.com

, A la k: Fro m Skagway tu ak y to k Tu ng di Fin 071

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"When the road ahead seems too long, look back to see how far you've come. For, even if the hill before you is steep, the view gives you hope to finish the journey." â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

D A N I E L L A

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Happy Place Finalist Nikki Shah Australian Outback

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Migratory

life

WORDS BY: BONITA GRIMA IMAGES BY: BONITA GRIMA

I’ve lived a transitory sort of life. I used to think of myself as a kind of modern-day gypsy, moving from one place to the next, but now I’ve come to see myself more like a migratory bird – still surrendering to that sudden urge to take flight – only now, returning home again after adventures away.

anderlust is a term stemming from the German words wandern (to hike) and lust (desire). The desire to hike. What is it that makes us want to roam to faraway places? Perhaps this call to explore parts of the world that are wild and unknown is a call to explore parts of ourselves that are also wild and unknown. Perhaps it is an invitation to challenge and push ourselves, to help us learn and grow. To wake us up again, adding colour and excitement to our lives after the monotony of day to day routine has lulled us into tired, drab, unconscious living. And there is no doubt that travel can do this for us; be it losing ourselves in the distractions of New York, hiking through the desolate beauty of the Andes, or the culture clash felt on the streets of south-east Asia. Placing ourselves in unfamiliar locations and situations, around unfamiliar people, forces us out of our comfort zone and into survival mode that sees us live more in the moment. But just like there are times when we feel the need to

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tear ourselves away from the known, there are also times in life when we need the opposite. There are times when we need to feel clarity, understanding, protection and connection. To our lost selves, going back to the beginning, to that place that offers comforting familiarity, can help us reassess, recharge and reset our inner compass and find new direction. Just as migratory animals and birds instinctively know when to return, thought to be guided by invisible geomagnetic forces, so too can we feel the pull or call of the place we call home. Heimwah comprised of the words ‘home’ and ‘woe’ is a feeling of sadness caused by the longing for home. While Perth in Western Australia is where I have decided to settle, when I think of the place I call ‘home’, my mind is cast to a land much further north. The Pilbara region where I grew up, in the state’s north-west, is an untamed ancient land of remote and rugged beauty. A land where rich red earth and rocky hills, rise above spinifex plains; where swimming holes and waterfalls hide within deep desert gorges and tea coloured coves and the golden sands of island beaches

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meet with an aqua sea. And even though Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been gone for more than 20 years, it is still to the Pilbara that I feel most connected and to which I feel most strongly drawn. I am called back to that land every so often, and like a dutiful daughter I answer that call. The land has been like a parent to me in a way, forever watching over me in the background, out beyond the small mining town where I lived.

Migratory

life

I realised that what I had been feeling as a child was a spiritual connection and empathy with the land and its traditional owners.

As children, we are more open and in tune with what surrounds us. Our imagination is limitless. As a child I really felt that I had the ability to communicate with whatever it was that was out there as I stood at the edge of town, looking out into that endless wild country. Back then, I felt waves of unexplained sadness. As I grew older and spent time with the Indigenous people of the area, I learned more about the Pilbaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and of the impact of European settlement and mining on both culture and environment. Learning more about their beliefs and culture, I realised that what I had

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been feeling as a child was a spiritual connection and empathy with the land and its traditional owners.

Perhaps empathy is the key to connection. In the same way that we connect with people by listening to their stories, deep listening to the story of our landscape allows us to empathise with our environment. And while we can still practise this and feel a connection to unfamiliar places (or even cities), the connection is stronger when it is in a more familiar and natural setting. I like to think of it as being similar to having a conversation with an old friend. By silencing the mind and listening to the sounds around us, we can feel calmer in that comforting space. And if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re really in tune, in that meditative state, we can not only feel the energy and hear the messages of what surrounds us, but we can also feel and hear the messages within our own hearts. In writing this I acknowledge the Ngarluma-Yinjibarndi, Yaburara-Mardudhunera and Woon-goo-tt-oo people as the Traditional Custodians of Murujuga

Bonita Grima

Bonita Grima has a background in TV and radio production in Australia and the UK and is a freelance travel writer, based in Perth, WA. She believes travel to be a powerful tool that can challenge, inspire, educate and encourage empathy by allowing us a window into the world of others. www.bonitasojourns.com

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The Science of

PARADISE L O R D

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H O W E

I S L A N D

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The Science of

PARADISE WOR D S BY: C A RO RYA N I M AG E S BY: C ON S E RVAT ION VOLU N T E E R S L H I

The first time I heard about citizen science it was all ET’s and SETI. It was acronyms and geeks from around the world, tuning in their PCs to listen for distant noises and sounds from another galaxy, another universe. That was the 80s, and the first time that the world became aware of the possibility of harnessing collective human curiosity, without the white coats and university degrees, to gather data whilst tapping into our collective need to be part of a tribe. Part of something big, something great.

ETI couldn’t be further away from here if it tried. A tiny dot of 56 sqm in the Tasman Sea, 600 km from Sydney, 1.5 hrs by air and no lab coats in sight. Lord Howe Island has been quietly and diligently harnessing this type of ecological tribal passion for many years, with

2018 bringing fresh enthusiasm in the creation of the Conservation Volunteers Lord Howe Island (CVLHI) program.

return guests. What draws them back varies, but for a high number of them, a love of the unique ecology of this protected island is the anchor that holds them fast. Not only is Lord Howe a bushwalkers paradise, but for birders or any number of people fascinated by the natural world (113 of their endemic plants are not found anywhere else), it is a kind of

A UNESCO World Heritage ordained island, this delicate environment is home to 350 permanent residents, (many of whom

ecological Mecca.

can trace their history back six generations), and never more than

For visitors like this, those who appreciate the precious, unique

400 visitors. Unless you’ve lived in an isolated small town it is

and visually stunning environment, the opportunities offered by

difficult to describe how rich and deep these roots go, but scratch

citizen science activities help them to not only connect to this

the surface and you realise it is fundamental to every breath, every

special place in a richer way, but offer them the chance to give

decision, every sunrise and sunset.

back and deepen their holiday experience.

Almost as deep as the resident’s sense of belonging and ownership

The 2018 citizen science program covers a broad range of topics

is the passion of the regulars for this place. It’s not uncommon for

with the aim of collecting data across flora, fauna and marine

families to have been holidaying here for generations, often in the

life activities. During my five-day stay, I was able to take part in

same week every year, like the classic Aussie caravan park booking,

Nocturnal Beetle and Snail Surveys (there’s some very rare snails

carried across year-to-year, with a staggering 88% of visitors being

over there and not a lot of nightlife!), Intertidal Reef Monitoring

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Not only is Lord Howe a bushwalkers paradise, but for birders or any number of people fascinated by the natural world... it is a kind of ecological Mecca. (who doesn’t love walking amongst rock platforms at low-tide?), and be a part of the current environmental hot topic of Plastics Monitoring along the beautiful beaches and lagoon. For me, one of the highlights (and one of my secret green crushes), was getting to meet naturalist, photographer and resident Ian Hutton. He opened my eyes to the truth of what citizen science is. He believes allowing people to participate and contribute to science, thereby giving them a sense of purpose and belonging, is only the surface stuff. The heart of programs like CVLHI are education and communication. Using wonder, knowledge and connectedness to share the important messages of conservation, and thereby enlisting passionate advocates for protection and change. They certainly achieved these outcomes with me.

T O P

T I P S

Make the most of the low-season price reductions during winter when many of the accommodation lodges, restaurants and tour operators either take a well earned break or work on maintenance and upgrades. With temperatures averaging 16-18 degrees, it’s perfect bushwalking weather and there are still opportunities for swimming and lazy days in the sun.

In just one week, I not only hiked from one end of the 11 km long island to the other, ascending many summits along the way, but heard from experts and scientists in live lectures and films at the island’s museum. We are all seeking authenticity and meaning in our lives. With travel experiences like this one available, we can engage our mind and soul whilst stretching our legs, paddling the seas or simply sitting with nature. Disclaimer: Caro Ryan travelled courtesy of Lord Howe Island Tourism and Somerset Apartments. www.lordhoweisland.info

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Caro Ryan

TV producer by trade, bushwalker and search and rescue volunteer by passion, Caro Ryan started LotsaFreshAir.com to encourage, inspire and teach people to get into hiking and the outdoors safely. She has built an engaged online community, delivering hiking ‘how-to’, ideas and inspiration in a supportive and friendly style. www.lotsafreshair.com

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rainbows Sharing

LESSONS IN CONNECTION FROM JAPAN

WORDS BY: HANNY ALLSTON IMAGES BY: GRAHAM HAMMOND

I am running along a wild trail in Japan, entering into the Zen state that occurs soon after the ‘I am getting a little tired’ point, and shortly before the second-wind gusts you back onto your feet. In this internal bubble, time loses all meaning, and thoughts come and go like the breeze that hits me each time I crest onto another jagged ridgeline.

weat is dripping down my forehead, seeping down my neck, before finally making it into my undies. Moving along this trail, far from the wandering crowds, and well beyond reach of emails, phones and all that ‘life’ stuff, I think I am in heaven. And, from the depths of this meditative state, I feel completely connected to my rawest self. This experience in Japan is my first multiday, lightweight mission. All I am carrying on my back is a small five-litre running vest pack. It contains only the bare essentials – a change of undies, a singlet, shorts, thermal, rain jacket, toothbrush, electrolytes, sports gels, cash, phone and a few tea bags. I learnt last time I visited that even in Japan I can find myself in tea deficit mode. On that occasion, I had reached a teahouse surrounded by tea plantations only to find that they only served coffee!

On each day of this spontaneous adventure I am aiming to cover anywhere from 35-55 km through relatively remote, mountainous terrain. I am on the Kii Peninsula which lies to the south of the mega cities of Osaka and Kyoto. As I would later find out, I had been all too dismissive of the word ‘mountainous’, which in Japan really does mean huge, sharp climbs in excess of 1000 metres, followed be slippery freefalls back down the other side, only to repeat again. On rare occasions the trail dips into the valleys that gently cup small, remote villages where a rural life of rice paddies, tea plantations and persimmon trees adorn. Here, I am greeted to a hospitality unlike anywhere else in the world. Stooped women eagerly grasp my empty water bottle, or offer me some ‘chocolate, just for you’ when I step into her home (which also serves as a café). When the time comes to stiffly stand up and bid farewell, she stands

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at the hearth of her home, waving madly like I am her daughter. I feel so connected to them even though our homelands are waters apart, and our native tongues struggle to express our gratitude. In this rural region of Japan attention to detail is everywhere I turn. Small rest stops enroute are cleaned to 5-star hotel standards, with the toilet paper folded into a ‘V’ shape to highlight just how carefully prepared it is for my sweaty bottom. When I finally arrive weary, muddy and salt-crusted at my ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) for the night, I am greeted by unphased cheerful smiles, a pair of slippers and a white fluffy towel. Later, as I soak in the healing onsen and revel in the warm fuzzy feeling of a day of adventuring, my futon bed is carefully prepared by Japanese pixies. Prior to this personal four-day adventure, I led a group of trail runners on one of

our Find Your Feet Trail Running Tours in Japan. At the end of each day, our tradition is to share highlights with one another. This offers a beautiful insight into the small moments that can, at times, be life changing for our guests. The practice provides not only a connection with one another, but also allows our guests to get in touch with a side of themselves which may feel unfamiliar and nuanced. At the end of this particular trip, we asked each guest to share the one element of Japan that they wished to return home with. It was, without a doubt, the most remarkable conversation. Unanimously, collectively, the group’s highlight was the Japanese custom of generosity and compassion – given so freely and with no sense of entitlement in return. It is this experience that draws me to this unique country and continues to prod my heart as I plod, huff and puff my way along the weaving trails. Out here, on a trail to somewhere, I love to watch the way neighbors connect in the street, chatting gaily to one another. To marvel at the lack of fences and their community gardens. To watch them sweep, clean, and live alongside one another. Individual lives, connecting together and being enjoyed collectively. And yet, beyond this camaraderie there is another Japanese custom that profoundly strikes me – self-compassion. Many of the small towns in which I slept had onsens, frequented by locals who would tug their gumboots off at the entrance and pad their way down spotless corridors in a pair of slippers. Many of the women were stooped over from years of toiling in the rice paddies, tea plantations or vegetable allotments. From labour to self-love, the onsen is where they come to nurture, preen, be mindful, and leave renewed. When I step into this steamy environment at the end of the day, my dirty feet padding

a contrasting path across pristine white tiles, I cannot help but observe the relaxed nature of the Japanese women sharing this space alongside one another… and me. We are all nude. We are all different, some with more curves here, and some with less there. Taller, shorter, rounder, smaller, it doesn’t appear to matter. These women look at themselves in little stumpy mirrors whilst poised on small plastic stools. They appear to observe themselves with a peacefulness that could only come from a lack of self-judgement, and a lack of judgement of others. In contrast, back home, many of us are warriors in the bathroom. I for one, am far too quick to judge and rush through a routine of in, out, dried, clothed and on my way again. It is about time… time… time… or lack thereof. But in Japan, there is always time. Somehow, the days feel spacious, the heart fuller, the body more capable of brimming with self-gratitude. And of course, connecting to both oneself and others. My adventure passes. Back in the concrete landscape of Osaka and awaiting my flight home, I cannot help but pine for those hazy memories of steep mountains and unknown pathways still to come. So, in the shadows of dawn, I pull on my running shoes one last time and slip from the hotel, weaving my way out onto the foreshore overlooking the man-made island now forming the impressive Osaka Kansai International Airport. Rain clouds boil with potency around me. As the sun begins to bead light onto the earthen walls where families and fisherman throw their fishing lines into the sea, a bold rainbow manifests. I pause briefly, revel in the fact that I have had this glorious experience, and continue onwards. Never once does it occur to me to share this moment with the unfamiliar faces around me. However,

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I am soon pulled from my inner glow by another jogger. He is waving madly at me and then madly at the sky, all the while hosting a broad, goofy smile. ‘Rainbow, rainbow!’ He is calling to me, connecting with me, wanting me to see what he has seen. We pause together – two individuals connected by an appreciation for nature’s finery, each exchanging unfamiliar words of excitement before continuing along our solo pathways. Moments later, just as two nattering women in broad, floppy hats are wandering towards me, the rainbow has spread into a two-layered beauty with an arc from ocean to ocean. I wave madly at them, and then up at the sky. I know I am sporting a goofy smile but I cannot help it. They stop in their tracks, conversation now on pause, and look up. Then they are squealing, pointing, waving at all the other wanderers. We become bundled together, connected by an arc of colour, all pointing and cheering, ‘Rainbow! Rainbow!’ Had that first gentleman not taken that moment to connect with me, I would never have learnt that generosity can be as simple as sharing an arc of colour as it seeps across a sky. Had I not connected with those women in the onsens, I don’t think I would have ever fully understood the gift of self-compassion when I now turn on the taps in the quiet of the bathroom. We need connection, both to ourselves and to others. It makes the rainbows shine brighter, judgement seep away and compassion rise to the surface. It allows us to stand on a set of steps and wave goodbye to someone we do not know. And it gives a sense of having more time. More time to greet a neighbor in the street. More time to share a random act of kindness with no sense of entitlement in tow. More time and excitement to explore wilder trails, knowing that you will be taken care of, both by yourself and by others.

Hanny Allston

Hanny Allston is a Telstra Business Award Winner (2018), founding director of Find Your Feet (an award winning outdoor retail, adventure tourism and performance coaching business), the only non-European to win a World Orienteering Title, and is an accomplished trail and ultra runner. Hanny recently published ‘The Trail Running Guidebook’ and strongly advocates her personal philosophy, ‘Be Wilder, Play Wilder, Perform Wilder’. www.hannyallston.com.au

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"Spaces hold memories, of this I am convinced.. Here I can be alone, yet feel the energy of every loved person with whom I've shared this place, and who have shared it with me." Happy Place Finalist Karen Swan

Namadgi National Park (NSW) Photo Credit: Alex Pasquali

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En Pointe:

F R O M

T H E

BARRE to the

Summit

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WORDS BY: GEORGIA CANNING IMAGES BY: MIKE LANG & ONDIVOW PHOTOGRAPHY

When I jumped on the plane to Nairobi I thought I knew what I was getting into. Six months prior I’d told my family over breakfast that I planned to teach ballet to children in the Kibera slums, visit a student I’d been sponsoring at one of the local ballet schools, and then head to Tanzania to conquer Kilimanjaro. My parents were a little worried because they knew if I announced a grand plan I’d follow through. Being supportive, my parents said they’d feel a lot better if I didn’t travel alone. So I roped in my hiking buddy, collected dance wear and donations from my community, and set about helping the children build their dream dance centre. It’s not until you’re coughing up your lungs in a dusty 36 sqm room, using a drink bottle to make your phone play louder music, balancing a 6-year-old on one hip, and wondering why one of the 12-year-old students in the corner brought their sixmonth-old sister with them to ballet do you TRULY realise where you are. I asked why this young girl had a baby. The reply was simple: “Her mum’s at work so she had to bring her sister to school.” I kept thinking about how most kids at home around that age can barely look after a goldfish! During my first day in Nairobi, Krysteen (who is the heart of Anno’s Africa, the charity I worked with), took me on a tour of Kibera. Heavily polluted with garbage, waste, animal and human faeces, the Kibera slums are home to an estimated one million people.

We started with pliés and I don’t think I skipped anything on the barré. And when I say ‘barré’, we had our hands delicately placed on the wall, imagining a smooth piece of timber running under our hands. Whenever I referred to the ‘barré’ the children knew what I meant, so I never said place your hand on the ‘wall’. This was their barré. One perk of having an extremely dirty floor is that you can see where your foot travels into the ballet position retiré. Normally during a class I would talk about the foot travelling up the calf to a full retiré, as if you have chalk on your foot and you’re trying to draw on your leg. We didn’t need to imagine this in the slums. We had marks all over our legs from our feet. I told the students that I loved their floor for this reason. They were thrilled.

More confident students threw me a cheeky smile and jumped in for a hug. I’ve never had this happen at the end of a class before.

We were standing on the roof of an extremely dilapidated school building, (one that would cause most occupational health and safety officers to have a fit), when Krysteen told me about the government destroying one of the school’s classrooms without notice. The government claimed the land needed to be used for a railway line, although everyone knew that in a couple of months a block of apartments would be put on the site.

This led me to ask about the proposed dance center. I wondered whether it was worth building something when it could be torn down without notice. My worries were shared by Krysteen. But unlike me, she had an unwavering sense of hope and said that the building would go ahead regardless. After our tour, we went to where I would teach my first ballet lesson. I watched as students prepared the ‘studio’, moving chairs and desks from the classroom and sweeping the floor. After introducing myself to the students (who were only interested in playing with my hair), I asked one of the amazing Anno’s Africa teachers what time I was supposed to finish the class. The answer: Whenever I felt like it. This took me by surprise, I’d never taught a class without a time frame before.

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One of the students walked in late but I instantly recognised her. Her name was Iddah and I had been sponsoring her for 12 months. I ran towards Iddah, about to embrace her in a hug, but then suddenly stopped when I realised she had no idea who I was. I explained how I knew her and although her eyes lit up, she became nervous in my presence and ran to join the other students. I must admit, I’d pictured this moment very differently.

We continued on with class. Working on our port de bras, jeté and temps levé from the corner. I taught them how to do chaines (pronounced she-nay) turns which they’d never done before. I also taught them some of my favourite ballet words like rond de jambe and epaulement whilst they taught me how to say ruka and pole pole which are Swahili for ‘repeat!’ and ‘slowly!’ I don’t know how long we danced. Two hours perhaps? Maybe more. I couldn’t believe how focused and attentive these beautiful children were. Yet, I couldn’t stop myself from thinking about what they would go home to. At the end of class, the Anno’s Africa teachers reminded the children to stay out of trouble, make sure all their chores were done, clothes washed, houses cleaned, and brothers and sisters looked after so that they could come to ballet the next day. Another reminder of how quickly these children have to grow up. It also highlighted how important teachers are in these children’s lives. I’ve never had to finish a ballet class and remind the students to make sure their families are cared for.

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We performed a reverencé to finish and I thanked them all for their focus and allowing me in their classroom. Then one-by-one they came towards me. The girls curtseyed and the boys bowed. More confident students threw me a cheeky smile and jumped in for a hug. I’ve never had this happen at the end of a class before. And it wasn’t a once off. At the end of every lesson I taught in Nairobi, they all lined up and took turns thanking me personally. This simple display of respect was breathtaking and beautiful.

The sound of my own sniffing was driving me mentally insane. It was almost like water torture but instead of a ‘drip’ it was, ‘walk, walk, sniff, walk, walk, sniff’ for six hours in pitch black darkness.

Not every dancer will turn their love of ballet into a career as a professional ballerina. I am living proof of this. But, I can tell you with absolute certainty that every child or adult who studies ballet will take the lessons they learn in ballet to improve the quality of their life in all areas – relationships, work and health. If I thought this before, I wholeheartedly believe it to be true now.

After rock scrambling and breathing as if I’d done a ridiculously hard workout for six hours straight, our guides exclaimed: “We’ve made it to the top!” Relief washed over me. But, after realising it was still dark and that ‘the top’ looked nothing like the photos I’d seen they said, “Only two more hours to Uhuru peak…”

Despite daily challenges, teachers like Krysteen and the entire Anno’s Africa and One Fine Day team find new spaces for their arts programs and continue their amazing work. They not only teach ballet, but life skills that will hopefully change the mindset of the local youth at risk of drug use, prostitution and crime. Especially here, in a place like Kibera, a ballet class is never just a ballet class. With a heavy but full heart, it was time for part two of my adventure to begin. In all honesty, the first 4,500 m of Kilimanjaro were a breeze. The days passed quickly and quietly while we hiked across stunning terrain, enjoyed popcorn and multiple cups of tea. I even managed to finish an entire book of an evening, something I haven’t done in a long time.

And, because it was so cold, I had to cover my mouth with a fabric buff to trap heat. But then, because I couldn’t breathe through my nose (because it was frozen), I had to keep removing the buff which ruined my breathing pattern and effectively filled my lungs with icy air during every gasping breath.

You don’t tell someone they’re at the top when they’re not at the top!

Especially here, in a place like Kibera, a ballet class is never just a ballet class.

But I think I was one of the lucky ones. The higher we got, the more hikers struggled. Some people looked absolutely wrecked, walking around camp like zombies. At night you often heard people throwing up outside their tent. For those that are unfamiliar with oxygen levels; 95-100% is normal, between 75-85% is ‘minimal mental impairment’ and anything below 75% is ‘increasing sensory and mental impairment’. Kilimanjaro is considered ‘extreme altitude’ and as a result we had health checks every evening. Most guides and other hikers dropped to about 60% and for some reason my oxygen levels never dropped below 87%. No wonder I had such a lovely time at camp every evening.

I would have screamed if I had even an ounce of energy left in me. Instead, I sat on a rock. Sipping my drink bottle: Crying. After about 10 minutes, my amazing guides picked me up off the rock, gave me a swig of cola and we were on our way to the peak. I haven’t touched soft drink in years but I didn’t care – I was in survival mode and as soon as the sweetness hit my lips I was energised.

I don’t remember much between this point and reaching Uhuru peak. My chest infection was in full swing, my nose was forming icicles, my eyes wouldn’t stay open, my eyelashes were frozen together and my mind was playing tricks on me. I’m surprised there’s even a photo of me smiling at the peak because as soon as I reached the top my mind and body were yelling at me to go down. Now is probably a good time for a huge shout out to my mentor in adventure, Uncle Mike, without whom I would have never been able to complete this adventure of a lifetime. He captured photos of me teaching ballet in Kibera, and gave me a huge hug at the top of Kilimanjaro when I wanted to give up. He whispered, “Your Dad wanted me to tell you how proud he is of you.” I’m the kind of person that rarely lets my guard down, let alone expose any kind of weakness, but in these few moments he knew exactly what to say.

Those last 1,395 m though. Far out.

I left Africa with wider eyes and a larger heart. The children I taught truly inspired me. I can’t thank them enough for briefly letting me into their lives and cementing my belief in the significance of ballet, hope and adventure.

I had a sniffly nose from day one of the trek, which I didn’t pay much attention to. But, when you start walking in minus 20 degrees in pitch black darkness on summit night, it becomes a problem.

Disclaimer: The Kilimanjaro leg of the journey was planned and supported by World Expeditions (HUMA Charity Challenge division).

MEET

Georgia Canning

After studying at the Australian Ballet School and graduating from the University of Queensland, Georgia Canning opened her dance studio GC Dance in 2013. Georgia teaches ballet to people from all walks of life including athletes who understand the benefits ballet can bring to their daily lives. @thebalancedballerina

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"What you go through you grow through"

Love

ART

ARTIST

Tahnee Kelland www.tahneekelland.com @tahnee_kelland

HASHTAG YOUR FAVOURITE FEMALE ARTISTS whose work would speak to our tribe for a chance to feature in a future TPL magazine issue. #travelplayliveloveart

What to do

A B O U T

Y O U R

ONES&TWOS

If you go down in the woods today you're sure of a big surprise...and while you might be hoping for a teddy bear’s picnic, you are more likely to find a pile of poop.

WOR D S & I M AG E S BY: M IC H E L L E RYA N

on’t be afraid. We all do it. And we need to talk about the best way to protect our environment.

I’d often joked about writing a book about pooping and peeing while hiking. I have many funny (and not so funny) stories to tell. Often the need to do a ‘number two’ happens at the most inconvenient time. Where there is nowhere to hide, or when despite being on a seemingly deserted trail another hiker happens to pass by at that precise moment. One time, we were hiking in the Lakes District in the United Kingdom on a very remote part of the trail. I was hiding behind a tree while my husband stood guard. I thought we were alone until suddenly I heard him talking to someone. A ranger had come along to check a possum trap that was right near where I was pooping! What are the chances? So now we joke before doing a number two that we need to look out for the Possum Man. As for writing a book, it turns out that in 1989

Kathleen Meyer wrote the best seller “How to shit in the woods”, an environmental approach to the art of going to the toilet. Unfortunately her words of wisdom have been lost along the way. I hike many trails throughout the world and am saddened to see what ignorant hikers often leave behind. So, what are we supposed to do with our poo? Meyer suggests that we should treat our poo like garbage and pack it out. Take it just as you would any other rubbish. While I squirm at this thought, does she have a point? What effect does poo have on our environment if we leave it in the bush? Won’t it just biodegrade? Animals do it. Why can’t we? Human faeces carry harmful microorganisms and if deposited too close to streams or watersheds can contaminate the ground water source, leading to the spread of diseases such as giardia. Water-borne nasties can make you very sick and that’s the last thing you want whilst hiking on the trail. In developed countries like Australia, we are lucky to be relatively nasty

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free, but if people don’t do the right thing then we will soon have a problem. Animals poo in the bush and that’s ok. Unlike humans, animals eat what is found locally whereas people are usually depositing foreign elements. In order to respect our environment and fellow hikers, it’s important to remember a few simple rules. A little bit of toilet etiquette will ensure everyone has a comfortable experience. I have hiked many a trail throughout the world and continue to see people pooping and peeing directly on, or beside the trail and leaving toilet paper behind. Many times I have thought I need to sit and rest for a minute only to look around and see toilet paper, knowing full well what it was used for! Basic bush toilet etiquette Before embarking on a trail, check to see if there are any toilet facilities along the way and try to use them (no matter how stinky they can be). Need to go along the way? Safely leave the trail. Be mindful of others who are also out

enjoying nature too and ensure you are a respectable distance away. Peeing girls need to resist the urge to use toilet paper, just shake a little and take a second before pulling up your pants. Or try using a urinating device in the form of a funnel so you can stand and wee like the boys. Avoid using wet wipes if possible. If you do use wipes or paper, ensure you take it with you and properly dispose of it later. For poo, the easiest option is to dig a cat hole. What is a cat hole? A hole should be dug for human waste. A small trowel helps and there are plenty of lightweight ones on the market. Choose your spot away from the trail, and at least 100 m away from any campsites and watercourses. It really helps if you can find a spot in the sun as this helps your waste decompose. Dig your hole at least 10-15 cms deep. Once you have done your business, use some of the soil to fill the hole and stir with a stick. This helps break down the faeces and their nasty pathogens. Cover with the rest of the soil and tread down lightly. It is helpful for other hikers if you leave a stick poking out of the ground as a warning your business is there. Don’t cover with rocks and logs, as this will slow down the decomposing process. Carry toilet paper out in a ziplock bag and dispose of it appropriately. The practice of burning toilet paper is not recommended due to the risk of bushfires. I know I would hate to be the one explaining why the fire started.

Poop Tube Yes there is a poop tube. It is an option if you don’t like or simply can’t dig a cat hole, a great option for climbers faced with nowhere to dig through rock. You can buy them or make your own using a resealable tube or PVC pipe. Simply deposit your poop in the tube and carry it out to properly dispose later. Sounds smelly right? Don’t fear, special ‘poo powder’ is available for purchase that will help. How do you poop in a tube? I know, I was confused as well until I googled it! Rather than depositing straight into the tube, you poop on some toilet tissue, roll it up, pop it into the tube, seal the tube and place in a dry bag for extra smell protection. Toilet bag If the tube isn’t for you, consider a goanywhere toilet bag. Often used by climbers, it’s perfect for rocky areas where digging a hole is not possible. There are biodegradable systems on the market that will not only capture and deodorise, but also break down the waste using a NASA-developed gelling agent contained in the bag. You can buy them online and they come with one waste collection bag, pre-loaded with poo powder gelling agent, puncture resistant zip lock bags, some toilet paper and hand sanitizer. You can also purchase extra poo powder. Toilet paper tablets Compressed toilet paper tablets are a great alternative to carrying a roll of toilet paper on your adventures. Each tablet is around 2 cm

in size, so very small and lightweight. With just a drop of water they expand to a large wipe perfect for your hygiene needs. They are strong and 100% biodegradable made from pure Rayon (or wood pulp a cellulose raw material). Several brands are available to buy online. What do we do about the wee? This isn’t such a problem, although the smell can be a bit much in a popular wee spot. The smell of your wee can attract animals so do think about where you go, particularly when camping. Be sure to wee well away from where you are sleeping. That time of the month? Sorry ladies, this one can be a bit embarrassing, but is very important to discuss. Your feminine hygiene products are extremely slow to decompose so DON’T leave them on the trail. Not only are they bad for the environment, they attract animals and are very unpleasant for other hikers. Ensure you use a tube, ziplock bag or toilet bag to carry them out and dispose of appropriately. Alternatively, consider using a menstrual cup. Reusable and worn internally they collect your menstrual flow and eliminate the need for pads and tampons. You can empty them via a cat hole. Leave no trace We all need to be proactive on the trails and protect our beautiful environment so that the next time we go down to the woods we aren’t in for a nasty surprise!

We should treat our poo like garbage and pack it out. Take it just as you would any other rubbish.

MEET

Michelle Ryan

Michelle Ryan is a hiker that walks throughout the world, especially in her home of Western Australia. She is a freelance writer and author. In 2018 Michelle produced a documentary ‘Bibbulmun Journeys’, and published her first book ‘The Capes’. www.walkingtwobytwo.com

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{Travel Play Live}

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2. TPL

Buff & Back Issue Special Our TPL Buff. Stocks are limited so be quick! These buffs are the must have item for your next adventure! All the adventure chicks have one & now you can too. This is another great way to introduce another wonder woman to our TPL community. RRP: $20 www.travelplaylive.com.au

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Love BOOKS

#TRAVELPLAYLIVELOVEBOOKS

Are you an author or consumer of incredibly fabulous reads? Then share the love with the TPL tribe. Use #travelplaylivelovebooks and help more people discover great authors. We are considering launching an online TPL Bookstore and would love to hear from you. Do you have a book you want to share? Have you read something you love? Would you like to write a review? Send us an email with your ideas: hello@travelplaylive.com.au.

STORIES FROM THE HEART THE TRAIL RUNNING GUIDEBOOK BY: HANNY ALLSTON

This guide provides athletes of any ability a safe pathway to help you find your feet in trail running. Hanny Allston’s personal coaching methodologies focus on long-term health, training and performance successes. It contains key lessons Hanny learnt on her journey to becoming a world champion and elite trail running record holder. She shares her theories on training and racing strategies, nutrition and hydration, running technique, psychology, and more. Hanny has experienced the elation of success but also the pitfalls of striving too far for performance. It is from this honest place that she wrote this book for you. www.findyourfeet.com.au

BY: LISA EVANS

E-BOOK BY: JESSICA BROSNAN

(featured co-author Melanie Chatfield, TPL Chief Editor) A collection of unique, true stories shared by 12 inspiring Australian women. This easy-to-read anthology bursts with powerful tales of resilience, determination, adventure and vulnerability. It takes courage to lead a life on your own terms and not give up when it’s tough. This book offers a mix of honest, heartwarming and insightful tales that will leave you feeling like anything is possible. Co-authors: Michele Gennoe, Ai-Mei Nguyen, Nicky Howe, Pip Brennan, Mavis Carruthers, Karina Barrett, Claudette Pope, Grace Najean, Mary Chetcuti and Cushla Lovejoy. www.speakingsavvy.com.au

OF THE OCEAN

ZERO WASTE WITH KIDS “Did you know that EVERY single piece of plastic ever made STILL exists today? The choices we make everyday will either have a positive or negative impact on our future generations. I have decided that I no longer want to be a part of this plastic pollution problem and instead be remembered for the good things I did for this planet, and not for the rubbish I left behind. This ebook is a step-bystep guide of how you can reduce your household waste and also be a part of the solution.“ www.jessicalouisewellbeing.com

BY: HAYLEY TALBOT

“Some of us hoard our treasure into a fixed above, adorning our body with jewels, like a sad distant song the domesticated soul moans longingly to the wild earth it was once so inextricably bound to.” – Hayley Talbot A gift-book brimming with stunning poetry, quotes, prose, and letters as inspiring and undulating as the rapids Hayley Talbot rode from the mountains to the sea. OF THE OCEAN speaks to the soul, inspires the mind, and awakens the heart on a magical journey from the source, to wherever you want to go. www.hayleytalbot.com

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SATAY CHICKEN STICKS The flavour combination of lemongrass, ginger, garlic and spices in this satay are a winner. Cooking on the chargrill or barbeque just adds that extra edge of golden deliciousness. These sticks are perfect as a party nibble or for dinner served with rice. SERVES 12 SKEWERS (GF)

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

1. Trim the excess fat from chicken and cut into 3 cm x 3cm

1kg chicken thigh fillets

pieces.

2 tbsp olive oil

2. Finely slice the lemongrass stalk and soften in 2 tbsp of

100ml coconut milk

boiling water.

Marinade:

3. To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients with the

1 lemongrass stalk (pale inner core only)

lemongrass and water in a large, shallow dish. Mix well. (You

1 red onion, finely chopped

can mix in a blender if desired).

2 tbsp grated ginger

4. Add the pieces of chicken to the marinade, cover and

2 tbsp crushed garlic

refrigerate for at least 1 hour or alternatively overnight. Thread

1 tbsp tamarind puree

the chicken pieces onto skewers, using about 4-5 pieces of

1 tbsp ground cumin

chicken per skewer.

1 tbsp ground coriander

5. Preheat a large chargrill pan or the barbeque on a high heat.

1 tbsp ground turmeric

Drizzle pan with oil and cook skewers on each side for 4-5

¼ tsp chilli powder

minutes until chicken is golden brown in colour and meat is

4 tbsp natural peanut butter (crunchy)

cooked through. Rest for 5 minutes covered with foil.

juice of 1 lime

6. To make the dipping sauce, place the remaining marinade,

1 tsp sea salt

plus the 100ml of coconut milk into a small saucepan, mix well

300ml coconut milk

and bring to boil on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Serve chicken sticks drizzled with dipping sauce. Note: If using bamboo skewers, soak them in cold water for 15 minutes, to prevent them burning while cooking.

lemongrass (also called fever grass) is a tropical island plant from the grass family and native to many Asian countries. It is a perennial plant with long, thin leaves and although it smells like lemon, it has a milder, sweeter taste. Commonly used in teas, soups, curries and satays, it is ideal for use with poultry, beef and fish. A source of essential vitamins and minerals, lemongrass has proven health benefits such as easing coughs and nasal congestion.

SPECIAL THANKS

©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure – Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

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HAZELNUT, ALMOND AND CACAO BALLS A nutritious protein snack that is made from ‘real food’ ingredients, rather than synthetic substitutes. Keeping it real is always best for your body. SERVES 25-30 BALLS (V & GF)

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan forced). Place the

100g hazelnuts

hazelnuts and almonds on a baking tray and dry roast for

100g almonds

15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. Place the nuts in a food

200g pitted dates

processor and process until finely chopped.

1 tbsp chia seed

2. Add the remaining ingredients and process until sticky dough

1 tbsp sesame seeds

forms.

1 tbsp ground cinnamon

3. Line a tray or container with non-stick baking paper. Roll 1

½ cup (45g) desiccated coconut

tbsp of mixture into a ball. Repeat until all mixture is used.

2 tbsp cacao nibs 1 tbsp cacao powder

4. Roll each ball either in the cacao powder or desiccated

4 tbsp pure maple syrup

coconut as desired. The ingredients provided allows for coating

For coating:

half in cacao and half in coconut.

3 tsp cacao powder

Storage: Balls can be stored in an airtight container in the

2 tbsp desiccated coconut

refrigerator for up to 7 days.

maple syrup is a syrup usually made from the tree sap of the sugar maple, red maple, or black maple tree. For cold climates, these trees store starch in their trunks and roots before winter, with the starch then converted to sugar forming sap in spring. This sap is processed by heating it to evaporate much of the water, resulting in a concentrated syrup. Maple syrup is commonly enjoyed with pancakes and waffles, oatmeal, porridge and French toast. Other uses include an ingredient in baking and as a sweetener or flavouring agent.

SPECIAL THANKS

©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure – Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

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LOVE Distributors TPL is committed to building and supporting a strong network of like-minded businesses. We are grateful to all those who work hard to promote our brand through advertising, in-kind support and distribution of our magazines.

We want to share our love for your business with our community and encourage others to join our tribe. Special shout out to the following folk who helped us expand our reach for Issue #12: • The North Face (in store events in VIC & NSW) • Pacific Palms Real Estate – Blueys Beach / Smiths Lake (NSW) • Pacific Coast Property Network – Forster / Tuncurry (NSW) • Tea Gardens Real Estate – Tea Gardens / Hawkes Nest (NSW) • Beach Stays – Northern Beaches Sydney Coast Holidays (NSW) • JakJak Interiors & Coffee Bar – Mandurah (WA) • Escaping Your Comfort Zone (TPL sponsored VIC event) • Big Heart Adventures (SA) • Roaring 40°s Kayaking (TAS) • TPL Happy Place Round #1 Winner Kathy Chislett (QLD)

Did You Know? You can buy a wholesale box of TPL magazines to giveaway or sell through your networks! Our magazines are fantastic for: • A coffee table in your waiting room, holiday accommodation, cafe or office. • Event show bags, giveaways and prizes. • Tour packages and promotions. • Customer freebies or incentives with “x” amount of sales of your goods and services. online or instore at the point of sale. • Gifts for all your friends, family, staff and colleagues. Email hello@travelplaylive.com.au to order or visit our website for further info. Are you a newsagency? We currently have an exclusive distribution arrangement with 1200 newsagents across Australia. Get in touch if you want to find out more.

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WOMENS ADVENTURE, TRAVEL & CAMPING HUB CONNECT WITH LIKE MINDED, WILD HEARTED WOMEN IN THE FACEBOOK HUB. Share and show off your brave, adventurous stories. Inspire the community. We'll share industry news, updates, tours and other event information from time to time, but this group is mostly commercial free. www.facebook.com/groups/ travelplaylivehub/ www.travelplaylive.com.au

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J A C I N TA P I N K

NIKKI SHAH

K A R E N SWA N (C R E D I T A L E X PAS Q UA L I )

20 Finalists

#HAPPYPLACETPL #TRAVELPLAYLIVE A B I G A I L M AT T E R N

H AY L E Y M O O R E

Photo credit Shane Chalker

ANGE MALONEY

WINNER MILLIE CHALKER

LAUREN HANSEN

OLIVIA FLETT

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M A RY M I TC H E L H I L L

H E L E N WA L L I S

M O N I Q U E B O R TO L I

SARAH MIZRAHI

TINA MCCARTHY

EILIDH GRAHAM

BERNADETTE BENSON

S H A N N O N TOW N S E N D

TEGAN CORK

DEANNE DWIGHT

S O N I A WA R E

Thank you to everyone who submitted their photos into the Happy Place Competition! We received some fantastic entries, but 20 stood out as our favourites!

HAPPYPLACE

PHOTO Competition

Winner: Millie Chalker (cover) 2 year tribe membership (8 issues) Runner Up: Ange Maloney (inside front cover) 1 year tribe membership (4 issues) 18 other finalists (pictured) We have a little something to offer you. Please email us at hello@travelplaylive.com.au.

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Australia’s most inspiring guided walking holidays.

A collection of Australia’s best multiday guided walks.

greatwalksofaustralia

Explore some of our most iconic landscapes – untamed wilderness and beaches; ruggedly beautiful coastlines; ancient volcanic plateaus and rainforests; pristine world heritage listed islands and meandering rivers; and the truly magniﬁcent Australian Outback.

@greatwalksofoz

Walk with expert guides who share their deep understanding of the environment and the stories behind each place we walk in. Experience the comforts of a luxury holiday together with a sense of adventure. The next step is yours… greatwalksofaustralia.com.au

@greatwalksofoz