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“I thought I knew Rajasthan inside out...until I discovered these five hidden gems.”
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Know before you go! JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
Cover Story:
A Dream Holiday in the UK
Our 13-page guide on how to make it come true
PLUS: Lust List • Super Stays • Taste Notes • Power Secrets
ts secrets Know before you go!
Publisher & Editor: Shubhra Photo Editor: Nitin Gopal Srivastava Design Director: Vijay Rana International Correspondents: USA: Kristen Cashman, Ted Grinewich-Yonashiro, Sinead Tyrone Africa: Nirav Shah London: Olesya Nova, Christopher Brown Holland: Mariël van den Donk Serbia: Anna Rostokina Italy: Paola Peruzzo Sweden: Ida Joseffin Eriksson Features Writer: Siddharth Birla Sales & Marketing Director: Pankaj Sahni +91-9818114451 pankajsahnitams@gmail.com Published From: 991 Sector A Pocket C Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070 Contact: info@travelsecrets.in Editorial inquiries: travelsecretsmag@gmail.com, +91-9818044341 Printed at: Nikhil Offset, DSIDC Shed No. 223, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi 110020 DISCLAIMER: The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and do not necessarily reflect those of the editors or publishers.
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FIRSTWORDS
E
Making Our First Million
ach time I travel to Britain, it reveals a new enchanting side to me. I’ve fallen in love with Lake District, romanced the charming Midlands and, of course, walked the heart of London until my legs threatened to fall off. But this time, I had the privilege to experience Britain like the royals would. From the moment we entered the gates of a family estate in the Cotswolds to the day we rounded off our trip with the finest of Scottish whiskeys, it was one incredible thing after another. We were 10 women journalists from all corners of the world—Jordan, Spain, China, Japan, USA, Canada, Russia, Sweden, Norway. Our languages and cultures were different, but we instantly bonded over the best of British traditions. Our 10 days together were like a traveller’s fondest dream come true: I invite you to read about what we did and you can too! This, of course, is our Cover Story in this issue. While I leave you to browse the rest of our carefully handpicked stories too, I have a request. Do check out our brand new website, where we have presented Travel Secrets in a fresh, fun avatar. We’re delighted to have a faithful band of followers on Instagram: 11,500 and counting. In tune with the times, we are focussing on and totally enjoying our digital platforms, and hope you will, too. This year, we plan to travel thousands of unexplored miles, so we can bring you little-known travel stories, ideas and tips from all over the world. Our love of the offbeat and the untrodden grew into a mission: #1MillionTravelSecrets. Day after exciting day, we invite people from all over the world to tell us one travel secret each. College students, homemakers on their way to buy daily bread, executives, designers, men and women from the armed forces...most of them are glad to tell us where they have been and what they have seen. If you have a secret to share, please write to us on travelsecretsmag@gmail.com. If we like it, we’ll share it ahead—in the magazine as well as on our social media. Let me end my piece—and this year—with a beautiful Irish blessing: May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand. Safe travels, and happy times.
Shubhra Krishan, Publisher & Editor January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 7
TSMOMENT
“Some of the best memories are made in flip flops.” — Kellie Elmore, American Author
8 Travel Secrets January-February 2018
lustlist
Explora Patagonia, Chile A five-hour drive on some rather difficult roadways from the airport in Punta Arenas to Explora is in itself a bit of an adventure. It looks like a white ship on the shores of Lake Pehoé. Explora Patagonia’s unique location sets you accurately in the middle of Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. Stands just yards away from the Salto Chico waterfall with the peaks of the Paine Massif looming just behind. The fifty rooms and suites, and the associated public spaces are luxurious. Over 50 different guided hikes and horseback rides take you through incredible views of glaciers, lakes and mountains. Tip: There aren’t any cell-phone networks! So it’s a completely secluded place; just be in the moment and enjoy. Source: www.explora.com
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 9
Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland, Canada Off the remote northeast coast of Newfoundland, perched upon crooked pilotis on a rocky coastline stands Fogo Island Inn, a marvel of contemporary architecture offering panoramic views through its wall-to-wall, floorto-ceiling windows. A brainchild of high-tech entrepreneur and native Newfoundlander Zita Cobb, the lodge was conceived to save one of Canada’s oldest rural cultures. It is now a wonderful renaissance of traditional woodworking, weaving, quilting, and other crafts helping the oncethreatened community thrive by embracing the very customs that defined them. A stay at Fogo Island Inn is a personal invitation to become part of a centuries-old culture; fish for mackerel as the islander’s ancestors did, forage for wild berries and mushrooms, or just sit back and listen to the lilt of local music. Take your watch off while checking in and fall in sync with the wafting tides, which is the way time is kept here. Get Me Here: Fogo Island is a remote, accessible island located off the Northeast Coast of Newfoundland, Canada. The closest commercial airport is in Gander, NL. The best routes into Gander are through the international airports located in Halifax, NS or St. John’s, NL. After landing in Newfoundland, drive up to the Fogo Island ferry dock and take a short scenic ferry ride over to the island. Source: www.fogoislandinn.ca
10 Travel Secrets January-February 2018
lustlist
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  11
The Utter Inn, Sweden What looks from outside like a shed, not spacious enough to even house a bed is actually just the entrance to an underwater hotel room submerged ten feet beneath the surface of Sweden’s Lake Mälaren. Built by Mikael Genberg, a local artist and sculptor, The Utter Inn (Otter Inn in English) has an above-surface kitchen inside a little hut made to look like a traditional Swedish cottage — a small red house with white gabled roof. Swim, watch the fish, sunbathe on the deck, and in case the little hut gets too claustrophobic, get into the inflatable dingy and take a trip around the lake. At bedtime, climb down the hatch to the sleeping quarters with an all-round view of life under the surface. It is a remarkable feeling to go to bed with the lapping sound of water to soothe you while the fish are watching you carefully: You are in a “reverse aquarium” for the night. Get me there: You arrive at the port of Vasteras located in southern Sweden, just east of the capital Stockholm and sail one kilometre into Lake Malaren in an inflatable boat. After receiving all the instructions you need, you are left alone. Source: www.visitvasteras.se
12 Travel Secrets January-February 2018
lustlist
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  13
14  Travel Secrets January-February 2018
lustlist
Mulranny and The Great Western Greenway, Co. Mayo Situated along The Wild Atlantic Way, a 2,500 km coastal touring route, Mulranny is a hidden treasure perched on the rugged Atlantic coast of Co. Mayo in Western Ireland. It offers stunning panoramic views over the vast seascape of Clew Bay, its archipelago of drowned drumlin islands, the vast Nephin mountain range and Bellacragher Bay. Choose from a wide range of activities such as golf, kayaking, surfing and swimming on the blue flag beaches, shore and sea angling. The 42 km Great Western Greenway offers an exhilarating and safe cycling experience for all the family with gentle gradients, through some of the most spectacular landscapes and seascapes in Europe. Source: www.mulranny.ie
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  15
TSMOMENT
A bunch of artists sit sketching on the streets of Segovia, Spain. — TS Photo by Nitin Gopal Srivastava
16 Travel Secrets January-February 2018
ts Know before you go!
THE BIG TRIP
ROYAL BRITAIN
Your eye-rubbingly amazing guide to holidaying like a king
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 17
ROYAL BRITAIN
How to enjoy a lap-of-luxury holiday in the UK
C
halking out your next trip to Britain? How about Afternoon Tea at Ellenborough Park, a 15th-century country estate situated a 10-minute chauffeur-driven Bentley ride from the iconic Cheltenham Race Course? An incredible pleasure flight on a helicopter, gazing down at the stunning Cotswolds? Shooting clay pigeons in a sprawling Scottish estate? And sipping luxury hot chocolate at 18 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
the café where Prince William and Kate first met? Travel Secrets received an invitation to experience all of these, and more. Over the course of nine days soaked in sensory indulgence, we discovered a side of Britain that we could have imagined only in our dreams. Of course, this royal journey through the land, replete with ye olde England charm and good ol’ fun, was the ultimate
cover story
in indulgence. But my biggest takeaway from it was the happy realisation that most of these can be yours without breaking the bank! No, really. For example, that afternoon tea at Ellenborough Park stars classic British sandwiches, strawberries with Devonshire clotted cream, delicately handcrafted cakes and pastries on the menu…and costs just £25. Book ahead, and you could grab a helicopter flight for
less than £100: an unforgettable glide over the storybookpretty countryside. You could explore the quiet countryside of the Cotswolds or discover the histories and charm of the Scottish cities of Aberdeen and Edinburgh. Whatever your liking, make sure you enjoy the holiday at your own pace, because when you travel like a royal, time is an affordable luxury. JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 19
Cheltenham & Winchcombe Days to enjoy: 6-7 The drive to Winchcombe Lodge in the heart of the Cotswolds takes about three hours from London. Let your luxurious journey begin with a relaxed evening and undisturbed night at this dreamy estate. You are a short trot away from Cheltenham, where high-adrenaline action awaits! But for now, feast your eyes on the undulating green hills and quiet villages with honey-stoned homes, as you coast along the Cotswolds. Along the way, stop by at lovely little towns such as Moretonin-Marsh and Bourton-on-the-Water, where you can shop for Cotswold cheese, smoked violet garlic bulbs, artisan gifts and much more. A walk through Sudeley Castle reveals small manicured gardens and mighty stone walls, complete with Tudor windows and Gothic arches. The Lodge at Winchcombe sets the tone for your relaxing vacation. The 5-star country house has eleven individually designed suites, tastefully decorated with all the luxuries one might expect from a boutique-style hotel. Dine in secluded gardens under the night sky or unwind in the comfort of your suite with a bottle of rare bubbly. After a walking through the rambling lanes of Winchcombe, satiate your hunger at the acclaimed 5 North Street, a familyrun Michelin starred restaurant. The owners make the best of the abundant seasonal produce at their disposal. As a result, every dish which comes on the table is a gustatory masterpiece. Dig in! For a more traditional and laidback experience, head to The Lion Inn for a hearty meal. The cheery atmosphere coupled with the rustic interiors is enough to make you fall head over heels in love with the town pub. Cheltenham in the Cotswolds is especially close to the royal family’s heart. It is where Zara Phillips, celebrated Olympian and Queen’s eldest granddaughter, lived before moving to Gatcombe Park. Every year come the spring days of March, Cheltenham, usually gracefully 20 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
Winchcombe Lodge
cover story
Ellenborough Park
silent, witnesses a raucous stomping of well-bred horses racing to win the Gold Cup Festival held at the Cheltenham Racecourse. The foundation stones for the historical racecourse were laid as long back as 1815, when the first race took place. Today, the sprawling grounds of the racecourse host over 700 million eager visitors every year. To see the sacred grounds of horse racing and to get up close and personal with its equine residents, take one of the exclusive tours. An experienced personal guide provides all the information that you need—and more. There’s plenty to fill your day at the races. Ride, royal style, to the race course in a chartered Lamborghini. Dress up to the nines, complete with a stylish hat, and tour the stables as the horses neigh in greeting and experience excitement as you stand at the finishing post; the feeling of victory is infectious. Finally, stare with awe at the unrestricted view of the rolling green estate stretching out in front of your eyes as you savour the delicacies on offer at the refreshment tea service. Between races, amble down to the shopping area, studded with shops selling stylish hats, beautiful coats, quirky accessories and more. Sitting on its own 90-acre estate, the elegant Ellenborough Park hotel has its core building dating back to the early 1500s. The impressive honey-stone manor house stands proud in the middle, its castle-like towers reaching out into the clear Cotswolds sky. With rooms decorated in the traditional British style and a staff which is charming and
“Sitting on its own 90acre estate, the elegant Ellenborough Park hotel has its core building dating back to the early 1500s. The impressive honey-stone manor house stands proud in the middle, its castle-like towers reaching out into the clear Cotswolds sky.” JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 21
welcoming, a stay in the hotel gives a feel of the Downtown Abbey era. The cherry on top is the unparalleled view of the Cheltenham racing grounds, given the hotel’s proximity to the racecourse. On race day, a pair of good binoculars will help you to keep track of the equestrian events. What is also striking about Ellensborough Park is the value for money the sprawling hotel offers. The price of double rooms, around 189 GBP, is fairly inexpensive compared to other upscale hotels. A trip to Cheltenham is incomplete without tucking into the iconic pub grub on offer at the various pubs strewn over the town. The Green Dragon Inn serves superb seasonal produce that lies somewhere between traditional pub grub and chic cuisine. The crackling log fires coupled with low ceilings and a cosy bar make it a place where you would definitely want to hop in time and again for a satisfying meal. The Lucky Onion is a family of hotels, inns and restaurants (including No 131 Promenade Cheltenham, where we dined), currently consists of six Lucky Onion properties; each one with its own distinct character and personality. This is a dining experience which would be almost disrespectful to miss. Delighting with food which has made many a food critic sing high praises of its dishes, the restaurant is one of the best in all of the Cotswolds. To explore Cheltenham from a fresh perspective, hop into a private chartered helicopter at the Gloucestershire Airport and take in the rolling countryside spread like a carpet under you, dotted with stone architecture. Sadly, the mist played villain and we had to give this a miss, but if you are there on a sunny day, sign up— it promises to be an indelible memory in your travel album.
Green Dragon Inn
Gourmet Dining at The Lucky Onion
22 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
Cotswold
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Longdole Polo Club
To spend more time with the equine creatures, visit the Longdole Polo Club to take polo lessons. Opened in 1992, the Club has evolved into a premier centre
for training school and college students, as well as visitors. If you thought polo was a rather intimidating sport, this is where you’ll feel the myth vanishing, within
moments of meeting the experienced trainers. For a more immersive experience, book the barn on the property for the weekend.
Essentials Stay: • The Lodge at Winchcombe Address: Cheltenham Road, Winchcombe, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL54 5NQ • Ellenborough Park Hotel Address: Southam Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL52 3NJ
Eat:
Activities:
• The Green Dragon Inn Address: Cockleford,Nr Cowley, Cheltenham GL53 9NW
• Longdole Polo Club Address: Longdole Farm, Gloucester GL4 8LH
• Le Champignon Sauvage Address: 24-26 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham
• Helicopter Experience – Gloucestershire Airport HeliAir Address: Southam Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL52 3NJ
• 5 North Street Address: 5 North Street, Winchcombe, Cheltenham, GL54 5LH • The Lion Inn Address: 37 North St, Winchcombe, Cheltenham, GL54 5PS
• Cheltenham Racecourse Address: Cheltenham Racecourse, Main Grandstand, 5thLevel, Box 5062, Phone: 01242 513014
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 23
Aberdeen & Edinburgh Days to enjoy: 6-7 If Cotswolds is famous for its honey-stone architecture, Aberdeen is known for its elegant silver-grey granite personality. One of the prettiest in the world, Edinburgh is a city that embraces the new without forgetting to give ode to its medieval history. Discover quaint eateries in the Old Town or experience the finest Scotch along the Royal Mile: Edinburgh brims with gastronomical pleasures in a romantic setting. A 1.25 hour flight takes you from Birmingham to Aberdeen, Scotland. From there, it’s a short, picturesque drive to Douneside House, showcasing Great Britain in a glorious new light. When we arrived, light snow had just dusted the landscape, creating an echanting preChristmas scenery. Douneside House Located on the outskirts of a small village called Tarland, the rambling Douneside House within the grounds of the MacRobert Estate is a destination on its own. The 17-acre gardens, with bubbling rock pools, a green house and even a walled garden, offer the perfect grounds for exploration. The furnishings are an elegant mix of modern and vintage, with an old Louis Vuitton travel case taking pride of place in the entrance hall of the house. A comfortable sunny room can be yours for an incredible £85 in the off-season! Relax at the iconic RAF themed bar which is a respectful nod to the history of the property—the landowner, Lady MacRobert, lost two of her three sons in RAF service. I for one have seldom enjoyed a dinner as much as I did at Douneside— every leaf and spice and fruit in every dish they serve has the touch of a master’s hand! There’s plenty to enjoy in and around Douneside House— there’s a 9-hole golf course in nearby Tarland. You can go salmon fishing in the rivers Dee and Don. Hiking, biking and driving along the magnificent scenery will fill you with serenity as effortlessly as the trees soak up sunlight! 24 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
Edinburgh
Douneside House
cover story Douneside also makes a great base for you to explore the region’s famous Castle Trail. Crathes, Drum, Craigievar, Castle Faser and of course, the grounds of the mighty Balmoral are all short rides away. Balmoral Castle Every summer, Queen Elizabeth II makes her yearly pilgrimage to the Balmoral Castle, which has served as the Scottish home of the Royal Family for years. The idyllic 50,000-acre property features a whopping 150 buildings. When the Royal Family is in residence, Balmoral is closed, but offers guided tours during winter. The castle also opens to the public from March 30 to July 31 in 2018. Visit for an interesting tour or, for a truly royal experience, stay at the one of the many accommodations available onsite.
Balmoral Castle
Glen Tanar Estate
Dunnottar Castle
Glen Tanar Estate To deepen your close-to-nature experience n these parts, stop by at Glen Tanar estate set in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park. The Estate is the ideal base to explore the Scottish moorlands and forests. Take a guided tour in a comfortable Land Rover, a luxurious take on the usual jungle safari. Be prepared to spot red deer, golden eagles, merlins and other fauna which roam the countryside. You could spend a night or seven here, watching how the fields and forests change complexion day after heavenly day. The drive from Aberdeen to Edinburgh will take up most of your day, but en route there are some incredible attractions to enjoy. First up, Dunnottar Castle in Stonehaven looms up like a photographer’s fondest dream come true. This magnificent ruin should come with a gentle warning— it invites you to stay and stare long enough to send your itinerary awry! At the time of writing this, a tour of the castle costs just £7 per adult, but remember, those views are priceless. By now, the sumptuous breakfast at Douneside is duly digested, and the appetite has ignited again. Presto! You’re crossing Northpoint Café, where Prince JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 25
William met Kate. Pick up a bunch of scones for later, and enjoy a cuppa tea or hot chocolate, before heading out to St. Andrews, the town that is synonymous with golf. For more than 600 years, St Andrews Links has felt the tread of every great champion. Millions of golfers have hammered and hacked, swatted and swiped at balls of wood, leather, gutta percha and balata. It has felt the caress of hickory and the sharp assault of blades of steel and titanium. It is a living, breathing timeline, and you feel like a royal as you swing your club for a quick lesson in the sport. Later, tuck into a delectable lunch at Swilcan Lounge on the golf link: it offers panoramic view of the courses. And before you leave, set aside a good hour to stroll the beautiful town of St. Andrews, with its charming boutique stores. An early start from Aberdeen— say at about 8 in the morning— gets you into Edinburgh by twilight, despite all the leisurely stops on the way. Staying true to your royal-themed vacation, look no further than the most stunningly beautiful property in the city: Prestonfield House seduces with its opulence. The Baroque mansion has an atmosphere which oozes drama and romance. It is wildly grand, in contrast 26 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
St Andrews Links
Prestonfield House
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“Prestonfield is home to Edinburgh’s most luxurious fine dining restaurant, Rhubarb and a collection of sought-after private dining rooms.” to its quiet setting. Even connoisseurs of luxury will find themselves gawking at the sweeping arches and unique antique ambience. The lavishly furnished suites beckon you with their irresistible charm. Sipping tea cushioned in one of the silk armchairs as you observe a roaring log fire will definitely be one of the highlights of your trip. I drew the curtains apart, only to find a bevy of proud peacocks strutting in the gardens. Dinner at Rhubarb, the hotel’s iconic restaurants, is more than a meal—it is a celebration of luxury and gastronomy. The produce is sourced from Scottish artisan suppliers and the wine comes from an award-winning cellar. The dramatic, ultraromantic setting transports you back into eighteenth-century grandeur. And believe it or not, even if you are watching your wallet, this is a luxury you can enjoy for under £25.
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 27
Royal Yacht
Many visitors to Edinburgh miss out on one of its most amazing attractions. Make sure you don’t! Take a taxi to Edinburgh’s waterfront and visit the Royal Yacht Britannia. Christened in 1953, the yacht was the Queen’s home away from home as she sailed around the world, often entertaining heads of state. She decorated it herself to make it feel like a country home at sea. Now harboured permanently at Edinburgh, it offers an intriguing peek into the inside world of royalty. Your tour of the great vessel ends with tea and 28 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018
scones, assuredly among the best you have ever savoured. In the Royal Family, the Christmas activities continue on December 26 with an annual shoot. To experience the royal tradition for yourself, head to Winton Castle, it offers clay-pigeon shooting, something which few other castles do. Walk down the tree-lined estate to the shooting area, feeling the leaves crunch under your boot and the sun warm your shoulders. Clay pigeon expert Billy Gordon teaches you how to hold the gun, aim and shoot. I have to say I fell way
short of target, but it is interesting just to watch shooters splitting the clay birds mid-air. After that, head to the castle for a sumptuous spread of chicken, lamb, and potatoes prepared by Winton’s chef—something you would imagine the royals doing after an eventful shoot. Scotch Whisky, with its golden hue and rich overtones is considered ambrosia by many lovers of tipple. If you are one of them or just enjoy a glass of Scotch after a tiring day, The Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh will be a sensational experience. Walk through the interiors of a replica distillery to know all the secrets of the much-loved alcoholic drink. Get a whiff of the different aromas of whisky, admire the very instagrammable World’s Largest Collection of Scotch Whisky and finally sip on a dram of Scotch Malt whisky. Who knows, you might just walk out of the tour a whisky connoisseur! Perched on the roof of the historic Museum of Scotland, the aptly named The Tower restaurant boasts stunning views of Edinburgh’s Castle and the city’s skyline which will leave you pleasurably giddy. Sleek but still holding an aura of historical charm, the restaurant will surprise your palate with dishes that are stylish but also an ode to traditional Scottish cuisine. Dine from their exhaustible menu featuring dishes like the Aberdeen Angus lamb among other meat and seafood options. Can’t wait to begin your royal holiday in the UK? Click on www.visitbritain.com and follow #LoveGreatBritain online for scores of interesting ideas!
Travel Secrets was hosted in the Cotswolds and Scotland by Visit Britain. We are grateful to all the people, hotels and companies that made our stay an incredible, unforgettable experience. Text: Shubhra Krishan, Sarah Khalko
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018 Travel Secrets 29
Wildlife SECRETS:
Tashkent
Chimgan mountains.
30  Travel Secrets January-February 2018
Tashkent
Uzbekistan has a rich wildlife and plant life thanks to the varied topography of the country
T
he capital city of Uzbekistan in Central Asia, Tashkent is also the largest city in the country. Though there are but a few remnants of the ancient city that once stood on the Great Silk Road connecting China and Europe, Tashkent still has much to offer to travellers. From shopping at the colourful Chorsu Bazaar to sightseeing at one of the many architectural marvels and museums, there is much to do here. Another interesting aspect of Uzbekistan is the sheer variety of unique flora and fauna that thrives here. Uzbek Wildlife
One of the reasons why Uzbekistan has a rich wildlife and plant life is the varied topography of the country. Natural habitats like the steppes, deserts, mountains, and river delta regions all boast a unique type of wildlife. For example, the endangered saiga antelopes as well as foxes, badgers, wolves, and roe deer can be found in the steppes. The desert regions of Qyzylqum are known for being home to 5ft long lizards called desert monitors as well as gazelles and many rodents. At the river deltas of Amu Darya, you might catch a glimpse of jackals, deer, wild boars, and a stunning species of pink deer. The mountains contain the endangered snow leopards, Alpine ibex goats with their January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  31
huge curving black horns, and brown bears, wild boars, lynx, and wolves. Ecological tourism is thriving in Uzbekistan, and there are about nine functional nature reserves in the country. A few of these are located in and around the city of Tashkent. Ugam-Chatkal National Park
Founded in 1992, the Ugam-Chatkal National Park is located about 80kms from
Endangered saiga antelope.
32  Travel Secrets January-February 2018
Tashkent city, and is one of the largest nature reserves in the country. Known to house over 44 species of mammals and 230 species of birds, this state national park is a wonderful place to get an eyeful of wild animals in their natural habitat. This National Park is ensconced in the Western Tien Shan region which is reckoned to be one of the most ecologically clean and sustainable areas in the world. The national park has cordoned off over
100,000 hectares of land for the use of health and recreation complexes of Charvak, Beldersay, and Chimgan. Not only does this resort zone offer a naturally beautiful environment for humans to enjoy, you can also enjoy nature walks escorted by expert guides to view the rare animals in the park, a spot of rapid rafting at the river Ugam, and explore the stalactite caves at the Giza mountain pass. Some of the wild animals you can see at the reserve are the white-claw
The snow leopard or ounce is native to Central and South Asia.
Tashkent bear, wolves, Tien Shan fox, snow leopards, wild rams, Turkestan lynx, etc. If you have kids in tow, head to the Children’s Ecological Reserve in the UgamChatkal National Park. The research thrust here is to protect all the species of plants and animals that flourish in the area, and your little ones will get first-hand experience is studying the glorious ecological systems of the park. The best time to visit the UgamChatkal National Park is during the months of May to July. Chatkal National Reserve
Approximately 2 hours away from Tashkent city lies the Chatkal National Reserve. One of the oldest reserves in Uzbekistan, the Chatkal National Reserve was founded in 1947. Along with plenty of vegetation and over 57 plant species from A herd of Siberian goats or Alpine ibexes.
the Red Book of Uzbekistan which lists endangered species, you will also find a rich wildlife reservoir here. Though it is home to over 65 species of mammals, the reserve is well-known for the rare animals that can be found here including the snow leopard, stoat, Menzbier’s marmot, Central Asian otter, Tien Shan souslik, Siberian wild goat, and Tien Shan brown bear, to name a few. Certain parts of the Chatkal Reserve lie close to the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border, and visitors have to obtain a State Committee for Nature Protection and Committee for State Border Protection permission slips. Pulatkhan Plateau
Glorious sights from the Pulatkhan plateau.
Close to Tashkent and in the north-western spurs of the range of Chatkal, the Pulatkhan Plateau is a mesa stretches for about 8kms. The sharp whistle of the Menzbier’s marmot can be clearly heard in the highlands of Pulatkhan. In need of extreme protection, this species are listed in the Red Book as well as the international endangered lists. Siberian goats inhabit the rocky cliffs in this region. Along with these animals, there are plenty of birds to see like the Himalayan griffon, Indian chiffchaff, slender-billed larks, etc. The entry to the plateau is through the Plathandarvoza or Pulatkhan gates which open up to the stunning vista of the neighbouring rivers and mountains. From wildlife conservation and ecotourism tours to trekking, hiking, and ATV tours, Tashkent and its neighbouring areas offer excellent opportunities to explore the unique nature and wildlife here.
Fact File Location: In Uzbekistan, Central Asia; on the plains west of Altai Mountains near the Chirchik River, and on the road between Shymkent and Samarkand. Connectivity: Tashkent International Airport is the main airport in Uzbekistan, with flights to Asia, Europe and North America; Tashkent-Samarkand High Speed Rail connects the two main Uzbek cities. The country also has a welldeveloped regular rail system, with domestic lines as well as connections to Central Asian nations as well as Russia; local transport is affordable with metro, buses and taxis available. Climate: Continental Mediterranean Languages: Uzbek and Russian are the official languages. English is not spoken widely. Time Zone: UZT – Uzbekistan Time (UTC +5:00)
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 33
A
Amazing Alaska
34  Travel Secrets January-Februaru 2018
ALASKA
The majestic fjords with their blue ice were nothing short of magical, says Niyati Mankurve
A
A loud noise distracted me towards my right. I pulled my jacket closer and turned. A huge chunk of ice had dislodged from a glacier and was falling at tremendous speeds. The blue sheet of ice hardly looked disturbed through it all. It was business as usual at Northwestern Fjord, in the Kenai National Park, Alaska. The state of Alaska offers stunning natural beauty to a traveller. It has vast mountains, emerald seas, wildlife and experiences one won’t ever experience anywhere else. Witnessing a Fjord was one of them. I was aboard The Viewfinder, on an 8.5 hour cruise to see Northwestern Fjord, one of the largest blocks of ice in the Kenai National Park. Situated off the small town of Seward, this beauty is one of the few Fjords in the world. I got up close in action to the Fjords to see how the ice melted in summer and fed the pristine waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Several day cruises operate from the small town of Seward and my cruise was a longer cruise travelling over 150 kms in a round trip. The Fjords are a part of the Kenai National Park where several glaciers make for some stunning views.
Cruise travellers will almost always be rewarded with whale sightings, bird sightings and up close action with the fjord. Witnessing huge blocks of ice break off from a mountain and fall just a few feet in front of you is an out of the world experience. The tour was insightful in telling us how the Fjords and the glaciers maintained the ecological balance of the region. The melting ice brought together soil and nutrients which helped plankton grow. The plankton brought whales from as far as Hawaii to birth and raise their young. This made the Gulf of Alaska a unique micro ecosystem within itself all sustained because of the glaciers in the fjords. I had the opportunity to see a few Bay Harbour seal pups up close to the glacier. Getting on the tour helped me see the Tundra up close. The majestic fjords with their blue ice were nothing short of magical. To those travelling to Alaska, Seward and the magical Fjords should be the first destination on your bucket list. The town offers hiking and kayaking for nature lovers as well as a range of other cruises exploring the Kenai National Park. January-Februaru 2018 Travel Secrets  35
48 Hours in Kerala Ideas for a quick trip
W Gorgeous hill stations to numerous spice plantations, Kerala offers you a wide variety of natural beauty
hat do you do when you are on a trip to South India with only 48 hours to spare for sightseeing gorgeous Kerala? Although a mere two days in this state may not be enough to take in all that Kerala has to offer, you can definitely include quite of lot of experiences in your itinerary. The key to doing this is to make a proper schedule of your time in Kerala, and stick to the schedule. From gorgeous hill stations to numerous spice plantations, Kerala offers you a wide variety of natural beauty. With so many experiences on offer, here’s all you can do with your 48 hours in Kerala.
symbol of the alliance between the Portuguese and the Maharaja of Cochin in the 1500s. As you keep exploring Fort Kochi, you will come across gorgeous colonial structures like Thakur House and David Hall. One of the must-see attractions are the Chinese fishing nets located in the port area of this city. Visit these nets during sunset to capture some of the most breath-taking pictures.
Take a stroll through the historic town of Fort Kochi
Exploring Fort Kochi on foot is a must for history buffs – every corner here seems to ooze history. You will also get a glimpse of the ruins of Fort Immanuel, a 36 Travel Secrets January-February 2018
The famous Chinese fishing nets in Fort Kochi.
The tea plantations in Munnar, a hill station in Kerala.
kerala
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The classical Indian dance form that originated in Kerala.
Enjoy a Kathakali show
If you want to learn more about the culture of Kerala, do include a Kathakali show in your itinerary. Vibrant colours, elaborate make-up, and magnificent costumes combined with the graceful movements make the dance performance charming to the audience. One of the best places to catch a Kathakali show in Kerala is the Kerala Kathakali Centre in Fort Kochi. Journey through the backwaters
If you do not include Kerala backwaters in your itinerary, your visit to the state will be incomplete. It is perhaps the most popular attraction of Kerala – traversing the winding network of the backwaters is bound to be
Vanilla beans at a spice plantation in Kerala.
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one of the most memorable experiences in Kerala. Depending upon where you choose to go on a backwaters cruise, you will have the opportunity to spot the exotic birds as well as the local life here. Plan a visit to a spice plantation
Kerala is renowned for its spice plantations, after all, it has been nicknamed the ‘Spice Garden of India’. Visit one of numerous spice plantations in Kerala and get lost in the gorgeous fragrance of the different Indian spices. The best thing about these plantations is that you can actually buy fresh packets of these spices to take home with you. These packets could also be used as souvenirs to give to your friends and family back home.
kerala
Cruise the backwaters of Kerala aboard a houseboat.
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The Cherai beach in Kerala
Book an appointment at the Ayurveda centre
Hit one of the beaches in Kerala
Sample a few authentic Kerala dishes
Visit one of the Ayurvedic spas in Kerala and relax your overworked muscles and tendons. Revitalise yourself by booking one of the panchakarma sessions at these spas or indulge in one of the herbal massages to loosen all the knots in your body. While the Kerala vacation is good for your mind, these Ayurvedic treatments are good for your mind and soul.
Even though Kerala is not well-known for its beaches, it is home to a gorgeous coastline. Lovely waters, beautiful soft sands, and plenty of Indian sunshine is what awaits you at a beach in Kerala. Marari beach in this state is perfect for those who want to simply relax, whereas the Kovalam beach is the ideal place for people who enjoy a party ambience.
When in Kerala, do gorge on mouthwatering and flavourful authentic dishes. If you get a chance to enjoy the appetising Sadhya, a banquet served on banana leaves,
Ayurvedic spas in Kerala
The well-known Sadhya in Kerala
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kerala
Elephants at the Periyar National Park in Kerala.
do not miss it. Some of the must-try dishes of Kerala include the aviyal (vegetables cooked in fragrant coconut gravy), pothu (beef fry), payasam (sweetened milk with semolina), and appam (rice hoppers).
Visit a wildlife sanctuary
Fact File
The gorgeous evergreen forests in Kerala are home to numerous wildlife sanctuaries. These sanctuaries house rare and endangered species of fauna. Whether you are a nature lover or a wildlife enthusiast, you will definitely enjoy a trip to these sanctuaries. Some of the animals that you can spot at Kerala wildlife sanctuaries include elephants, Indian sloth bear, Nilgiri tahr, sambar, Indian porcupine, flying squirrel, and leopard. These experiences ensure that you get the best of Kerala in 48 hours. Don’t waste any more time, start planning your itinerary today.
Location: South Indian state on the Malabar Coast How to Reach: Cochin International Airport, Calicut International Airport, and Trivandrum International Airport are the three airports that serve Kerala. Official Language: Malayalam Currency: INR (Indian Rupees) Time Zone: IST (UTC+05:30) Climate: Maritime Tropical Climate Food & Drink: Mustard seeds, turmeric, curry leaves, chilies, asafoetida, and tamarind are regularly used in Kerala cuisine. Some of the popular dishes in Kerala are Chicken Stew with Appams, Kerala Fish Curry, and Malabar Matthi Curry.
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Talking Baolis with
Victoria Lautman
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INTERVIEW
Victoria Lautman, a journalist and author based in Chicago, talks with Sarah Khalkho about her recently published book, ‘The Vanishing Stepwells of India.’ The book chronicles the charm and history of these architectural marvels through beautiful pictures accompanied by simple text
Q. How many times have you been to India now?
My first visit was over thirty years ago, and I finally stopped counting after a dozen visits. So it’s over twelve, but under twenty, I’m sure. Q. When did you come across your first stepwell and what finally compelled you to write a book about them?
There are hundreds of folks I wish I’d contacted at the time I got the book contract, having been given just three-and-a-half months to complete it!
I encountered a stepwell on that first trip, it was the Rudabai Vav outside Ahmedabad. But I had no intention of writing a book even after becoming obsessed over six years ago. In fact, I actively did not want to write a book, since I knew how difficult it would be. But in the end, my intense desire to raise awareness about these marvels outweighed my reluctance. And now, I’m glad it did. Q. How do you think architecture has an impact on culture and reflects the identity of a place?
Actually, I’d start with the other way around: how does culture impact architecture? Architecture evolves to fill cultural/societal/ political needs, I believe. Temples, mosques, synagogues, churches, etc. all evolved to accommodate the beliefs of each faith, for instance. And look at the homes of rulers throughout the world, whether they be chieftains, kings, presidents, etc – whose power is instantly recognized by structures that set them apart in some way. So, in that way, architecture does impact culture.
We grow up learning these architectural symbols, which then stimulate us to react in specific ways, whether to be respectful, or awed, or fearful. Cultural identity as reflected through architecture stems from this, I think since every culture has its own individual approach.
Q. Give us an idea of the process of your research for the book.
I sort of backed into the research after first becoming stepwell-obsessed and having no knowledge whatsoever about these aweinspiring structures. Then, I tried to get my hands on anything ever written about them, which I discovered was shockingly limited. Jutta Jain-Neubauer and Morna Livingston had each written a book on the topic, but they were out of print and difficult to procure. Julia Hegewald had a seminal chapter in her book about waterarchitecture in south Asia. These were my basis to move forward. But I resisted writing a book for a couple of years because I knew how treacherous and difficult it would be - the information about stepwells is scarce, conflicting, and frustrating to nail down. But I looked at websites, blogs, government documents, and the like – and also spoke to as many folks as I could along the way. But there are hundreds of folks I wish I’d contacted at the time I got the book contract, having been given just three-and-a-half months to complete it! That’s when I regretted not being a bonafide scholar. January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 43
Helical
Portrait Agrasen
Neemrana Baori
Q. How significant do you think is the role of stepwells in Indian history and according to you, how can we preserve this slice of our past?
Chand Baori
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Those are two separate and enormous questions. I think stepwells were incredibly significant on so many levels. Nowhere in the world can a town, village, or city be established – let alone thrive – if water isn’t available, and stepwells made that possible in places that still seem uninhabitable. They also speak volumes about politics – one clear example being how Muslim dominance is reflected in stylistic changes in stepwells. Also, since the first structural stepwells were built around 600 CE, and up until the early 20th century, they show a timeline of Indian architecture that parallels other edifices of their day, though in this case, of course, subterranean. And still: these amazing structures just don’t exist in this form anywhere in the world. They’re all yours. So, in that sense,
INTERVIEW stepwells are not just important to your own history, they’re hugely important – or should be – on the global architecture history grid! As for preservation, I have a somewhat radical and perhaps unpopular idea about that. There must still be thousands of stepwells visible throughout India (I’ve seen about two-hundred and that’s just a small fraction!), in small towns and cities, remote unpopulated areas which were former trade routes, or just in simple villages. They’re in forts, occasionally in houses, embedded in places we cannot even see. The attempt to preserve most of these just isn’t worth it. Unless a community wants something preserved – cleaned, repaired, reattached to a water table – there’s no reason at all for them to care for it into the future. Unless a user is found for these, wherever they are, the time, money, and energy required for conservation make no sense at all. But if a stepwell’s practicality and usefulness can be proven, whether to access water again, or repurposed into something useful, or turned into some sort of tourist attraction (which has happened in several places, to enormous success) why should any community even want to preserve one, no matter it’s age and importance? I’ve totally flip-flopped on this issue over the past six years… Q. Out of all the stepwells you documented, which one stands out as a favorite, or is it too hard to choose?
Thanks for giving me that excuse of “it’s too hard to choose!” I do hate answering this question, I feel as though I’m insulting the other stepwells if I leave them out. By now, I’ve seen some two-hundred throughout the country, each as unique as a fingerprint, each with specific characteristics setting it apart from the others. But here are a few I like to point out, even if I could easily think of an entirely different list: • Ujala Baoli (c. 1500) at Mandu Fort in Madhya Pradesh. There were many stepwells built in forts, and they’re often extraordinary, although few people see them. Ujala is sitting off by itself, far away from the fort’s main areas, and it just seems so lonely. But this is one of the most serene, mysterious, and beautiful stepwells I’ve seen, and I’m overwhelmed by how lovely it is. • Chand Baori in Abhaneri, Rajasthan (c. 800 and 18th c.) Here is one of the most impressive stepwells in India, easy to locate off the Jaipur/Agra highway, and
Ujala Baoli
yet millions of tourists zip by each year with no idea what they’re missing. Chand is among the oldest, largest, and deepest stepwells in India, with a mesmerizing array of 3,500 steps. It’s also fascinating historically, an architectural layer-cake originally built by a Hindu ruler around 800 CE, but with a later Islamic addition from the 18th-century, both merged together and cascading down one side of the structure. It’s an extraordinary visual treat. It was also featured in Batman, The Dark Knight Rises, as a particularly creepy prison. • The Helical Vav (16th century) outside the fortress city of Champaner, Gujarat, is as humble as Chand is overwhelming. It amazes me that such a minimal structure - just an abstract curl in space – can have such power. There’s an utter lack of ornament and the well is barely visible above ground, so it’s such a surprise to peer into it. There are other of these simple, circular stepwells throughout India, but this is by far my favorite. • Neemrana Baori, in the small town of Neemrana, Rajasthan, is where I officially became obsessed with stepwells. It embodies everything that I find
compelling: hidden from view, no aboveground presence, a breath-taking scale and alarming depth, disorienting views through space. I still get chills when I visit Neemrana and am astounded that something so massive and magnificent is unknown in the world, omitted from history books and itineraries, there’s nothing like it anywhere. Yet there’s so little factual information available that scholars can’t agree on dates: 15th century, 1570, and 1720. Regardless of the date, the structure is astonishing. • Batris Kotha vav is from around 1120 BCE, in Kapadvanj, Gujarat. The city is densely packed and trying to locate this stepwell was such a pain, there’s absolutely nothing to be seen from the street, and it’s sandwiched tightly between buildings that have been built on top of the walls. It’s very deep, filled with water and draped with vines, which give it a very romantic but terribly sad ambience. Plus, those vines contribute to the stepwell’s slow demise. This was a simple, utilitarian, community well in its day, now in awful shape, and yet Batris Kotha has retained its dignity, so solidly built and still standing. January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 45
What to pack for Ladakh in summers
Indus and Zanskar River confluence in Ladakh.
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LADAKH
The dry, dramatic landscape makes Ladakh a true traveller’s darling. Going there? Here’s what to take along.
L
adakh seems like the ultimate tourist destination – whether you love taking scenic bike rides or if you just want to experience nature at its best. Beautiful gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) atop rugged outcrops – this picturesque view is something quite unique to Ladakh. Nicknamed as the ‘Cold Desert’, Ladakh is located at a high altitude in the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges. The lifestyle in Ladakh has many Tibetan influences, after all it does share a border with the country. Ladakh is known for its rigid climatic conditions, while the temperature in summers can rise up to 32 degrees C, winters in Ladakh usually have sub-zero temperatures. In Ladakh, the weather can change at the drop of a hat. Therefore, if you want to make the most of your vacation, it is vital that you come well prepared. Here is a list of essential things that you must pack, when you are planning to visit Ladakh in summers. January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 47
Warm Clothing
It is advised that you pack light woollens during your summer trip to Ladakh.
Remember the thumb rule for Ladakh – always wear layered clothing. It is true that the temperatures in summer may soar up to beyond 30 degrees C, however, the evenings are known to be chilly. You may feel all warm and hot when you are under the sun, but in the shade you may experience low temperatures. The best thing about layered clothing is that you can keep adding or removing the layers as and when you need to. Even in the summer months, it is recommended that you pack a light jacket with you. Apparel
Apart from warm woollen clothes, you will also need to pack some basic clothing. For the summer months, T-shirts and shirts will do. However, keep in mind that the temperature fluctuates constantly – so carry your jacket with you all the time. Shoes
If you are planning to go on any hikes during your trip to Ladakh, it is important to carry proper shoes. Wearing uncomfortable shoes will only be counterproductive for your trip – not only will you be in pain, but you will not be able to enjoy yourself. Carry the appropriate gear if you are planning to go biking in Ladakh. Medicines
There is no need to carry jumpers and sweatshirts during summers, normal shirts will work too.
A good pair of sport shoes is a must for your Ladakh trip.
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It is extremely important that you carry the basic medicines with you, when you are travelling to Ladakh. You will not find pharmacies easily all over Ladakh, which is why if you are on a particular medicine, ensure that you carry it with you. One of the most common problems that people face in Ladakh is altitude sickness, and this is because of the lower oxygen levels. Speak to your doctor before travelling to Ladakh and see what can be done to combat this sickness.
Make a first aid kit with essential medicines and carry them to Ladakh.
LADAKH Toiletries
You may have a tough time sourcing toiletries in Ladakh, so bring them with you. Why go hunting for basic things that you would need like toothbrush and toothpaste, when you can save yourself the trouble and pack it in your bag? It is recommended that you also carry some of the other toiletries such as hair brush, shaving kit, face wash, hand sanitizer, sanitary napkin, shampoo, and conditioner. Sunglasses and Sunscreen
Since Ladakh is located at a high altitude, sun rays are very harsh here. There are high chances of you getting a sunburn, if you do not take proper care. Carry a couple of sunglasses with you, the extra Protect yourself from the harmful UV rays in Ladakh. ones will be useful if you break or lose one of the pairs. It is advised that you carry a high SPF sunscreen lotion with you, when you are heading to Ladakh. Remember to liberally apply some lotion, every time you are stepping out in the sun.
Do not forget to pack basic toiletries in your luggage.
Energy Bars
Granola bars or chocolates are best sources of instant energy.
Ladakh is not like any other metropolitan city of India in that you may not find something or the other to eat at every corner. In fact, you may have to travel for miles till you reach an eatery in this mountainous city. Therefore, take energy bars or chocolates with you whenever you are getting out. This will ensure that you have something to eat when you need an immediate energy boost during your sightseeing. Electronic Gadgets
You will feel like a kid with a camera in Ladakh.
Ladakh may be barren and arid, but it offers you some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the entire world. A digital camera or a smartphone that clicks good pictures is a must to capture the incomparable vistas of Ladakh. Do remember to carry extra batteries and a power bank – you will need that when your camera or phone battery is depleted. Along with these items, ensure that you have all your documentation and IDs in place. Finish your packing and start exploring! January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  49
50  Travel Secrets January-February 2018
6 Jodhpur JODHPUR
Things You Probably Didn’t Know About
Jodhpur is a jewel in the heart of Rajasthan, aptly nicknamed “Sun City” for all the sunshine and warmth it gets year-round. Most tourists visit the beautiful blue city for its majestic Mehrangarh Fort and the stunning Umaid Bhawan Palace. But before you go, take along a bunch of interesting secrets that will help you see the city in a new light!
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1.
THE ‘BLUE’ HUES
The entire city of Jodhpur is awash in blue, from arches, rooftops, to dusty walls. But though it loves its blues, the city couldn’t be a happier destination! Flocks of tourists and hordes of locals bustle about its roads, breathing in the ancient sense of wonder. Legend has it that the wealthier classes used blue paint to set their dwellings apart from the peasants. But as the paint became more widely available, and its cooling properties were noticed in the dry desert heat, Jodhpur transformed into the Blue City once and for all.
2.
THE DELECTABLE ‘JODHPURI BURGER’ While the word ‘burger’ was coined somewhere in the West, the concept of sandwiching a spicy patty between bread slices is thouroughly Indian at heart. Jodhpur’s famous “Mirchi Vada” is a green-chilli cutlet coated with besan (gram flour), and then deep fried. This ball of goodness is then stuffed between two slices of bread and eaten hot. Served with a tangy chutney, this is a hot local favourite. You can enjoy it in street stalls and fine dining restaurants alike.
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JODHPUR
3.
LINK WITH RAMAYANATHE EPIC
4.
The original inhabitants of Jodhpur date back to 4th Century AD, the era of the Ramayana. They were known as the Abhiras or the Abhirs. Later, the city was captured by the Aryans and much later, Jodhpur became an integral part of the state of Marwar. The people living here came to be called Marwaris, and became reputed for their business acumen.
5.
MITHI MANUHAR
Jodhpur is famous for its savoury snacks such as pyaz ki kachori (deep-fried bread stuffed with onions). But there is one Jodhpuri tradition which many are not aware of: the locals here start their meal with something sweet. This tradition is called “Mithi Manuhar” or sweet hospitality, a symbol of the importance of guests and visitors.
SHOPPING FOR TURBANS Jodhpur’s vibrant Sarafa Bazaar is a treasury of Sarafas, colourful turbans worn by Rajasthani men. The textile ranges from bandhini (tie-n-dye) prints to leheriya (wave) patterns in cotton, silk and chiffon fabrics. While you’re here, also scout for delicate handicraft, ethnic silver jewellery, lovely lac bangles and intricately designed photo frames. Special Secret: Stroll down the lanes and you can watch dyers, metal engravers, and possibly the last surviving tailors of the famous ‘Jodhpur’ breeches here. Location: Pungal Pada Road, Sodagaran Mohalla, Jodhpur January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 53
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JODHPUR
6.
THE ELEGANT MARWARI HORSE Centuries ago, the princely state of Rajasthan relied heavily on horses in times of war, so much so that the animal became a huge symbol for the state. Clans would scour the best stallions and mate them with the best mares, creating startlingly beautiful new horses in the process. One such tribe known for its horses was the Rathores. The Marwari horse, which dates back to the 12th century, was (and is) a dressage horse, used for important functions, the sport of polo, and for transporting lightweight cargo. Evolution has ensured that Marwari horses are natural performers and are one of the most loyal breeds of horses in existence. January-February 2018 Travel Secrets  55
Backpacking across Gujarat Your one-stop guide on what to see and do in one of India’s most culturally alive States
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GUJARAT
The Assembly Hall at the Sun Temple in Modhera, Gujarat.
Backpacking across this state is one of the best ways to explore the sites and experience the culture here. Since there is no tour itinerary that you have to follow, you can do whatever you feel like doing, and explore Gujarat at your own pace
H
ome to the Father of the Indian Nation, Mahatma Gandhi, Gujarat is often an underestimated tourist destination. Temple towns, beautiful architecture, gorgeous beaches, lovely hill resorts, and fantastic wildlife sanctuaries, mouth-watering local cuisine – Gujarat is a state that offers all this and more to a traveller. One of the best things about this west-Indian state is that the people here are incredibly friendly and welcoming. Backpacking across this state is one of the best ways to explore the sites and experience the culture here. Since there is no tour itinerary that you have to follow, you can do whatever you feel like doing, and explore Gujarat at your own pace. You may venture into new territory and discover a place that is not so popular among the holiday makers. Here is all the information you would need to make your backpacking trip to Gujarat a success.
Best Time to Travel
Summers in Gujarat are unbearably hot, so it might be extremely difficult for you to go exploring when the sun is out. During monsoons, you will not be able to access some of the most popular attractions of Gujarat, like the little and the great Rann of Kutch. So your best bet is to go backpacking to Gujarat in winters, between November and March, as the climate is mild and agreeable. Must-Visit Places in Gujarat
History and charm are the characteristics that separate the must-visit places from the other attractions in Gujarat. Gir Wildlife Sanctuary
Here’s your chance to come face to face with the ‘King of the Jungle’ in Gujarat. Gir Wildlife Sanctuary is the only natural dwelling of Asiatic Lions and several other rare wild animals in India. Spanning approximately 1412 sq. km, in this sanctuary you can also spot hyenas, leopards, black bucks, and fish owls. Go on an open January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 57
Sunset over the Rann of the Kutch.
Home of the Asiatic Lions in Gujarat
jeep safari or choose to stay inside this park’s buffer zone. Rann of Kutch
Located between the Arabian Sea and the Thar Desert, Rann of Kutch draws travellers and locals alike for its gorgeous sunsets and magical full moon nights. This endless land of white sand is home to flamingos in winters, when these birds fly to Gujarat from Siberia. Rann of Kutch comes alive during the Rann Mahotsav with music, dance, and cultural shows. However, bear in mind that 58  Travel Secrets January-February 2018
The Lakhpat Fort in the Kutch district.
this popular festival attracts hordes of people from all over the world, and tends to get very crowded.
Must-Have Experiences in Gujarat Venture into the ghost town of Lakhpat
Old Ahmedabad
What was once the richest town of Gujarat stands in ruins today. Lakhpat is situated very close to the Pakistan border, and was once an important trade route of the country. After the 1819 earthquake when the course of the Indus River changed, it turned into a ghost town. Head to this town to explore the Fort Lakhpat as well as the abandoned houses.
For those of you who are missing the hustle and bustle of city life, head to Ahmedabad in Gujarat. It is home to numerous historic sites such as the Hathisingh Jain Temple and the Sabarmati Ashram. Head to the old Ahmedabad city to travel back in time and observe some restored heritage houses inside the walls of Dhal ni Pol.
GUJARAT
The Somnath Temple in Gujarat.
Pray your respects to Lord Shiva at the Somnath Temple
Gujarat is famous for its Somnath Temple that is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Marvel at the Chalukya style of architecture of this temple and embrace the spirituality of this place. Head to the nearby beach for some introspection and relaxation. Tips for Backpacking in Gujarat
Eat a typical Gujarati breakfast
Your backpacking trip to Gujarat is incomplete without tasting the local cuisine. The typical Gujarati breakfast consists of dishes like dhokla, khandvi, and fafda with different types of chutneys. It is truly an experience that you will never forget.
• When you are packing your bags, ensure that you have carried your medication, bandages, glucose powder, a torch, sunscreen, sunglasses, as well as a day pack for when you are roaming around Gujarat. • Travelling within Gujarat can be very inconvenient if you don’t have a private vehicle or any other mode of transport. This is because the average distances between two cities or villages in Gujarat is quite a bit. So keep that in mind when you are planning your backpacking trip to Gujarat.
• When you are looking for accommodation, avoid Gir, Somnath, and Rann of Kutch (during the festival). The good hotels in these places tend to be expensive. Plan your backpacking trip with all these tips in mind. Create unforgettable memories by going off the beaten path and exploring the treasures of Gujarat on your own terms.
Fact File Location: A state in western India, north of Maharashtra How to Reach: There are two international airports in Gujarat, namely Vadodara International Airport and Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport. There are quite a few domestic airports in this state, and Gujarat is also well-connected to the rest of the country via rail and national highways. Official Language: Gujarati Currency: INR (Indian Rupees) Time Zone: IST (UTC+05:30) Climate: Very hot and dry summers, while winters are mild and pleasant Food & Drink: Although Gujarat is a coastal state, it is primarily a vegetarian state. Most popular Gujarati dishes include Thepla, Khandvi, Muthiya, Kadhi, Mohanthal, and Murganu Shaak (chicken curry).
The wide range of options for breakfast.
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GREEN INDIA
five secrets for
Nature Lovers
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GREEN INDIA
1
HYDERABAD Take a Rock Walk Did you know: Some of the rock formations in and around Hyderabad are older than the Himalayas, estimated to be 2,500 million years old! Once you are done with the city’s biryani and bazaars, take a trek to explore these natural wonders. Save the Rocks Foundation conducts a trek on every third Sunday of the month. It’s free, and an amazing way to learn about the unusual geological formations, legends and local history behind the stones. You’ll also discover hidden lakes, teeming with bird life among the rocks.
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2
LADAKH Discover a Bird Paradise Did you Know: Ladakh is a veritable bird watcher’s paradise, with nearly 200 species of birds calling arid landscape their home. Spread over 4000 square kilometres, Hemis National Park in Ladakh is home to the elusive Snow Leopard. Nearly 200 of these graceful animals live here. This is the largest national park in the country, with several species of mammals that provide food to the Snow Leopards.
3
MUMBAI Take a Thrilling Trek—or three!
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If you live in Mumbai, try the trek from Vasai to the waterfall in Tungareshwar. The flattish path lies between thick woods and puts you close to nature without taking you too far from the city. If that is too mild for your adventurous heart, consider Chanderi for a difficult but worthwhile two-day hike. Even better: make the gradual climb to Kalsubai, Sahyadri’s highest peak.
GREEN INDIA
4
KOLHAPUR Take a Walk in the Park A university is not a place that usually features on a traveller’s bucket list, but Kolhapur’s Shivaji University is worth a visit. While we are not suggesting that you head to the library, do plan an early morning walk on the sprawling 853-acre campus to enjoy its pristine beauty. The spectacular university building and wellmaintained green lawns make getting up early in the morning a sensory pleasure! January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 63
5
GOA Catch Crabs and Swim with Dolphins The Goan backwaters are where you should be if you are up for a little challenge. Crab catching, though not easy, is extremely exciting. You can try it at Baga Beach as well. We suggest you go to the backwaters for a much more fulfilling experience. Though if you’re looking for something much more chilled out, you can watch dolphins swim right by you along the beach belt of Sinquerim, Candolim and Baga. Some boat tours offer ‘No Dolphins No Payment’ options, so your chances of spotting these delightful creatures are pretty high.
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GREEN INDIA
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Solang Valley Resort
B
lessed with an incredible location in Himachal Pradesh, Solang Valley is a ski haven in winter and a green paradise in summer. A long weekend break here any time of the year is a great way to disconnect from the world and reconnect with yourself. The valley takes its name from Solang village. You can feel your frayed nerves unknot even as you approach this virginal land, lined with apple orchards and capped with snow peaks. The zesty Beas River runs alongside as you navigate the sinuous bends, putting a smile on your face and a song in your heart. SOLANG VALLEY RESORT
Perched high up in this beautiful valley, a little piece of heaven
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Cradled among snow-clad mountains and carpeted with lush green grass, Solang Valley replaces the word “stress” with “bliss.” It’s a destination for every season, and a stay at this resort deepens the wonderful experience.
awaits you. The Solang Valley Resort, located 8500ft above sea level, and just eight kilometres from Manali’s Inter State Bus Terminus, allows you to enjoy nature in its full glory. After a long and tiring 13-hour journey bus journey, we enter the resort, and it is like stepping into a soft cocoon of pleasure. First Impressions
The scene is set like a painting —cloudy skies, sweeping views of the mountains and the mesmering sound of the gushing Beas. The well-manicured and huge gardens are bejewelled with apple trees, apricot blossoms and a host of colourful flowers. We see local Himachali women cutting the grass manually. Photographs and paintings from local artists adorn the walls of the property. The art
reflects the culture and traditions of Devbhoomi Himachal. The warm and welcoming staff take us to our room and show us around the place, filling us in with trivia as we walk along. Rooms
There are 64 well-appointed river facing, valley facing or glacier-facing rooms including the Presidential Suite (offering panoramic views of the valley) and the Maharaja Suite (facing the mighty Beas river). The rooms are well spread out and offer breathtaking views. We are ushered into a glacierfacing room, and it is blissful to sip a cup of hot coffee in the balcony while gazing out at the natural beauty. Tip: Ask for a room on the higher floors for better views. It’s worth the climb upstairs.
Himachal Pradesh
shines the most. They have appointed an Activity Incharge to make sure that guests of all ages have a fun and memorable stay.
gives you an amazing rubdown —you will emerge from it feeling like new!
We love the breakfast and the room-dining food at the multi cuisine restaurant. The food is fresh and tastes superb, even though this is a hill resort, where resources aren’t abundant. We also enjoy a session of karaoke over drinks at the bar.
At the big garden outside Gazebo Restaurant, the resort organises all sorts of events from Himachali folk dance performances to DJ nights and live music everynight.The more adventurous can enjoy hikes and excursions every morning in and around the Solang Valley.
However, the real star of the place is the Italian restaurant, Gazebo. The pizzas and pastas are cooked in an authentic Italian way, bursting with flavour and the Trout is just superb! Extremely delicate and beautifully cooked. They have a well-stocked bar, too.
They have a fun zone with board games, video games, foosball, table tennis and two pool tables along with a badminton court, basketball court and a skating ring. The resort also has a well-equipped gym and a spa as well.
The Solang Valley Resort is an ideal hill retreat for the entire family. The rooms are luxurious, the views are breathtaking. The food and activities are top notch and the staff goes out of their way to make you comfortable. We highly recommend this Himalayan abode to our readers for a refreshing and restorative mountain break!
The resort also provides tents to camp overnight under the stars during high season. Food and Dining
Activities
This is one area where the resort
Verdict
My Tip: take a full-body massage from their masseur, Karamchand, who has years of experience and
Solang Valley Resort
Solang Valley, VPO Palchan, Kulu District, Burwa, Himachal Pradesh 175103 Web: solangvalleyresorts.com Phone: 01902 256 134 Review- Siddharth Madan Photos: Ashish Raj
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 67
Novotel Resort and Spa, Goa
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et’s put it like this: Novotel Resort and Spa is like a retreat within a retreat. If you’re flying in from a mega metropolis like Delhi, Goa greets you with its signature air of susegad and lulls you into believing that life is laid-back and lovely. Then you drive into the tree-lined portals of this hotel, and you are convinced that life is also lush and luxurious. This property wears a polished woodand-glass look, with sleek corridors and a well-cared-for feel. It’s a pleasant Goan-Portuguese design, in perfect tandem with its idyllic setting. The hotel features the Warren-Tricomi Spa from New York, award winning dining venues and bars, a sports corner, gym, fun pool area with great music, Jacuzzi and a supervised Kids club with daily activities. “Pleasure is our mantra,” they proudly announce, and follow it to the letter.
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In a city known for its laid-back vibe, the lush and lovely Novotel Resort & Spa deepens the sense of relaxation even more. You will love the lush, leafy environs and the sensational swimming pool.
You walk into your room and the sense of space relaxes you at once.
you. Chalkboard menus and quotes are peppered all over.
I’m greeted by a sweet little welcome note on a beautifully decorated tray filled with chocolates, crackers and spa coupons. Strategically placed lights and polished wooden floor enhance the room’s warm, cosy feel. Outside my window, more trees sway in the balmy Goa breeze. Much as I long to flop down on the inviting bed, I can equally not wait to step out and explore the rest of the property.
The alfresco kitchen is immaculate and inviting. An arched couch with colourful cushions adds a touch of fun. Chy Lounge & Bar is the hotel’s lobby lounge & bar at the lobby level, serving grab & go drinks and food, collectables, exotic teas and a unique bar and food menu all day long.
Breakfast is served at The Food Exchange, and it is lavish, to put it mildly. Only if you stay at least three days can you hope to sample everything they serve! Besides the delicious spread, the design elements cannot fail to impress
My favourite feature of this hotel: the pool. An impossibly brilliant blue under the generous shade of a big banyan tree, overlooking paddy fields. The result—lots of dappled sunlight but complete protection from heat, and a generous dose of beauty while you splash off your stresses. Kick back a beer from the sunken bar, then relax in the jacuzzi right next to it. You’ll want to say “Life’s good!”
Goa
The hotel is an easy 15 minutes walk from Candolim beach. Of course, they have a complimentary beach drop off service, too. Right outside is a cluster of local stores: interesting to stroll around and get your Instagram fix. We spotted a quaint little library, just a few steps from the hotel. My teammate Malika, a sports lover, was thrilled to spot a TT Table, basketball court, boxing and mini golf in the alfresco area. While she thumped around shooting baskets, I stood admiring the lovely landscaping around the pool. An effusion of bushes and flowers, punctuated with cobbled paths. Great food combined with beautiful scenery is perhaps everyone’s fondest dream come true. Surprise! Novotel Goa makes your dream come true, with Vero Cibo, where we enjoyed an
unforgettable candlelit meal starring fine wine and beautifully balanced Mediterranean meal, rounded off with an incredible dark chocolate dessert. The 35-seater restaurant serves Mediterranean and European cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood. A cool breeze swept through the paddy fields next to us. This gem of a restaurant is the perfect blend of elegance and earthiness, just like a glass of wine. And the best for the last: the Spa! After an entire week of driving around Goa, eating and drinking, swimming, taking pictures, buying knick-knacks and sharing it all on social media, one needs somebody to knead away the beautiful fatigue of too much enjoyment. The spa at Novotel is just the ticket, as I check into one of its
seven single treatment rooms. (They also have one Couple’s Suite, Goa’s only Couple’s Hammam Ritual Room, a nature pedicure area, a high-end Salon, a stunning Yoga deck and several relaxation zones.) Once again, I am spoilt for choice: Massage, facials, Hammam, scrubs, wraps…the buffet is as tempting as the breakfast spread! But because I have a flight to catch, I pick just a facial, during which the therapist also gives me a wonderful foot massage. Can life get more blissful than this? Verdict: if you’re going to Goa only to crash out into a pad at night, don’t stay here. This lovely hotel deserves to be enjoyed as a pleasure on its own!
Review: Shubhra Krishan
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Grand Mercure Vadodara
G
rand Mercure Vadodara Surya Palace, a premier business hotel in Vadodara, Gujarat, invites us for a launch preview. Lovers of good hotels, we are excited. After a comfortable one and a half hour flight from Delhi, we arrive at the hotel, located just 10-minutes from Vadodara International Airport. First Impressions
The large, well-lit lobby sets the tone for a pleasant experience ahead. The first thing you notice is the grand glass chandelier on the ceiling. It glimmers a soft yellow, keeping the lobby bright and warm. Paintings by local artists adorn the walls. Art is, in fact, a key element
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In a city known for its laid-back vibe, the lush and lovely Novotel Resort & Spa deepens the sense of relaxation even more. You will love the lush, leafy environs and the sensational swimming pool.
in the design and theme of the hotel. The artworks, dotted across the porch, the lobby, the rooms and restaurants, reflect the current art scene of the city. The art on each floor and in every room is representative of a theme—seasons, festivals and relaxation. Room. Gym. Pool. And more!
The nine-storeyed hotel has 146 well-furnished guest rooms. These include five suites – Premier, Presidential and Executive; Deluxe Rooms and rooms specifically designed for the differently-abled called the DA Rooms.
the fresh fruit and cookies placed thoughtfully beside. A quick shower in the well-lit, marbled bathroom, and I am all set to explore the rest of the property. The hotel is also home to one of the city’s largest pillar-less events space spanning over 19,000 sq. ft., with six meeting rooms ideal for conferences, weddings and social gatherings of all sizes. They also feature an outdoor pool, a fitness and wellness center, giving us a perfect feeling of a staycation or vacation. The Food
My room, compact but comfortable, is on the ninth floor. Flopping down on the twin-sized bed, I bite into
The all-day multi-cuisine restaurant Azure offers both a la carte and buffet selections. They have a
Gujarat
wide menu ranging from authentic Gujarati food to Continental as well as Chinese and Italian. They have a live kitchen, too. On the menu: fresh breads, soups, salads with fresh fruits and vegetables, chicken, lamb, mutton, and fish. It was very interesting how they present some of the dishes, such as starters served in tiny pressure cookers. At the end of every meal, despite being full, the dessert is what I look forward to. With the mango season in full swing, we are served the fruit in different ways everyday — tarts, mousse, cake, salads, and more — each a delight. To wash down the hearty meal, there’s a wide variety of fresh juices — sugarcane, mango, orange, pomegranate and more.
The lobby also houses a delicatessen called Vanilla. It is a tiny, cosy place, ideal for a date. It serves the finest bakery and confectionery delicacies paired with gourmet appetisers and an array of refreshing beverages.
While primarily a business hotel, The Grand Mercure Vadodara is also a great weekend getaway. When a hotel feels like home away from home, you know you are in good hands!
Verdict:
• Free, High Speed Wi-Fi • A mini bar • An electronic safe • Flat screen TV • 24 hour in-room dining
Key Amenities:
With brands such as Grand Mercure you arrive with certain expectations — comfortable rooms, great foods and efficient service. This property has it all. Each wall here has its own story to tell through the paintings they showcase. With the varieties to choose from on the menu, you are perpetually stuffed, in a good way! My tip: Do try the Gujarati Thali. Despite Gujarat being a dry State, they have a bar and wine & beer shop.
Hotel Address:
Sayajigunj, Opp Parsi Agiary 390020 Vadodara, India Web: www.grandmercure.com/grandmercure-vadodara-surya Review: Anisha Joneja Team Travel Secrets
January-February 2018 Travel Secrets 71
8 Great Reasons We Loved Ibis Styles, Goa, Calangute
I
t Invites you to Relax: The picture below, with its cool calming colours, says it all:)
It’s Clean: A delightfully clean hotel. No leaky faucets, no dirty glasses or smelly sheets. Spick and span, as they say. All the rooms are decorated in soothing blues, with complimentary coffee and tea facilities and a mini fridge. The bathrooms are spacious, the shower is powerful and they have VLCC toiletries. The Pool Views: It’s always nice when you can enjoy a good view from your balcony, and here at Ibis Styles, all 197 rooms offer you a pool view. It was wonderful sitting in the balcony, sipping coffee and
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leader Sri Lanka could very well overtake the Maldives as the preferred beach getaway in the Indian Ocean. It is familiar yet exotic; boutique, but big enough to feel like a world in itself. So when we found out Sri Lanka’s next on our travel map, you can imagine our excitement. Bliss was just a fe
watching the cool blue water while the sky turned a pale pink. The Colour palette: A huge art installation, made entirely out of sea shells by local artists hangs delicately from the ceiling. The carefully strung cloud of sea shells looks elegant as well as quirky. Next to the reception, a handmade wooden fisherman boat hangs vertically on the wall, representing the local culture. This laidback, easy feeling pretty much sums up the style of the hotel—cosy with a colourful palette. It’s Near a Beach: As the hotel likes to say, you are just 750 steps from Thivim. It’s a smallish beach
compared to many others, but pleasant enough. Soon after checking in, we got into the hotel jeep and spent a pleasant hour watching the sun go down in the waters. If you are in the mood, take a seat at one of the shacks and kick back a beer or two. The hotel is also quite close to Saint Anthony’s Chapel and Spice Garden. You Can Walk to Baga! We did that, and it took us all of 20 minutes to walk down the quiet, leafy lanes. Of course, the stretch through Baga is quite buzzy and busy, but that’s part of Goa’s charm. Plus you save on taxi and auto fares, which can be quite steep (Rs 300 or so for a 10 minute ride!) since this is a tourist city.
Goa
The Breakfast! Whoever supervises the food here is obviously a genuine food lover. They serve Indian, Continental and local Goan cuisine. Not only is the breakfast buffet lavish, but every single dish we tasted was fresh, flavourful and fabulous. Surprisingly, the rajma chawal here beats some of the best in North India hollow! The Car-for-Hire Guys Right Outside: Step out and you see Sachu Travels, a little car rental and ticketing shop. We rented a car from them—friendly bunch of guys with whom you can
bargain a wee bit! So we booked a self-drive car @ Rs 2500 for two days—spent an additional Rs 1200 on fuel, and drove right upto Arambol, coasted along Dona Paula, explored Aguada, and rounded our long days off with drinks and dinner in Candolim. A great value-for-money way to discover Goa! The Staff: Last but definitely not the least. Everyone, without exception, wears a smile, and that’s always a good sign in our book. Who Should Stay: Anyone seeking
a classy, comfortable stay without breaking the bank. And all those who love good food—the breakfast buffet outdoes some five-star properties in the taste department. This is a very family friendly property. There is a 24/7 fitness and yoga studio, and a separate section for kids, with a play room and kids pool. Bicycles can be arranged for the guests on request.
Review: Shubhra Krishan and Malika Monga
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TSMOMENT
A couple enjoying
sea and serenity in Cannes, France
“We sit silently and watch the world around us. This has taken a lifetime to learn. It seems only the old are able to sit next to one another and not say anything and still feel content. The young, brash and impatient, must always break the silence. It is a waste, for silence is pure. Silence is holy. It draws people together because only those who are comfortable with each other can sit without speaking. This is the great paradox.” — Nicholas Sparks (The Notebook)
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RNI Number DELENG/2012/47061