TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2015: Sports & Recreation Issue

SUMMER 2015

travel world

I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A G A Z I N E

Sports & Recreation

ISSUE

Heli-Fishing in Nimmo Bay, British Columbia Banff and Jasper New Winter Sports (Ice Climbing • Heli-Snowshoeing • Fat Biking)

Expedition on ROOSEVELT RIVER Dangerous Amazon River tributary which nearly killed Theodore Roosevelt

Year Round Sports in Bend, Oregon Wisconsin Northwoods Fun Scuba Diving in St. Croix Bicycling in Belgium

The Magazine Written by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

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TravelWorld International Magazine

Letter From the Editor

is the only magazine that showcases the member talents of the North American Travel Journalists Association

Attention sports enthusiasts, nature lovers and all who dream of adventure! This issue of TravelWorld International Magazine not only whets your appetite for the great outdoors, but lets you share in the experience through fabulous stories and photography of places seldom seen by less adventurous travelers.

Additionally, extensive information on local faire, activities and even some history provide interesting accompaniment. As always, we strive at TWI, to widen your horizons and provide a new and positive perspective of the great world around us and the exciting people in it.

Thank you to NATJA members for sharing your experiences and talents in these, your wonderful stories and photographs.

Sincerely, Joy Bushmeyer Managing Editor TravelWorld International Magazine

TRAVEL QUIZ

(This time, the answers are in the stories!)

1. On what mountain, next to Bend, Oregon, is there a major ski resort?

Group Publisher: Publisher: Editor in Chief: Editor: Managing Editor: Art Direction: Operations Manager:

NATJA Publications Helen Hernandez Bennett W. Root, Jr. Dennis A. Britton Joy Bushmeyer Artistic Design Services Yanira Leon

Contributing Writers : Linda Aksomitis John Gottberg Anderson Debbra Dunning Brouillette Julie Hatfield Jeffrey Lehmann Jenn Smith Nelson Deborah Stone

Editorial /Advertising Offices: TravelWorld International Magazine 3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744 Pasadena, CA 91107 Phone: (626) 376.9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854 www.travelworldmagazine.com

2. Where can the Great Bear Rainforest be found?

3. Why should coral not be touched by divers?

4. What are two examples of “Interpretive Recreation”?

5. What is Chamois Butt’r good for?

6. What was the name of the Amazon River that nearly claimed Theodore Roosevelt’s life, before it was renamed the “Roosevelt River”?

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(Answers on Pages 63)

Volume 2015.02 Spring 2015. Copyright ©2015

by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and information sent upon request. Acceptance of advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services advertised. NATJA Publications and TravelWorld International Magazine reserve the right to reject any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors are their own and not necessarily those of Travel World International Magazine or NATJA Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity and length, as well as to reject any material submitted, and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.

This periodical’s name and logo along with the various titles and headings therein, are trademarks of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.

travel world SUMMER 2015

I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A G A Z I N E

Sports & Recreation F E A T U R E S

& S T O R I E S

ISSUE

6 Heli-Fishing in Nimmo Bay, British Columbia

By Julie Hatfield

13 Banff and Jasper New Winter Sports Ice Climbing • Heli-Snowshoeing • Fat Biking

By Jenn Smith Nelson

22 Bend, Oregon - Home to Year Round Recreation

By John Gottberg Anderson

32 Grit and Fun in Wisconsin North Woods

By Linda Aksomitis

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Photo credit: Robert Demar / aerial view, Mark Gardner / bikes, Mike Bertrand / Friday Harbor, Jim Maya / whales

Lopez Island • Orcas Island • San Juan Island / Friday Harbor

InspIratIon For the senses VisitSanJuans.com

Explore Historic Friday Harbor Find Endless Adventure

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Discover Nature’s Splendor

travel world SUMMER 2015

I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A G A Z I N E

Sports & Recreation F E A T U R E S

& S T O R I E S

ISSUE

38 St. Croix, U.S.V.I., A Scuba Diver’s Delight

By Debbra Dunning Brouillette

44 Bicycling in Belgium

By Deborah Stone

53 Roosevelt River Expedition

Dangerous Amazon tributary which nearly killed Theodore Roosevelt

By Jeffrey Lehmann

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Heli-Fishing

In Nimmo Bay, British Columbia

By Julie Hatfield

How exciting is it to fly into a high northern Canadian wilderness camp on a circa-1940 amphibious Grumman Goose plane that splashes into the bay, braking like a real live Canadian goose as it pulls up to the Nimmo Bay dock?

Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort is a breathtaking way to enjoy luxury in the middle of nowhere. Nowhere, in

this case, is the 50,000-square-mile Great Bear Rainforest, the largest tract of intact temperate rainforest left on earth and a wilderness region larger than Belgium, of eight million acres of It would have been the highlight of old growth cathedral topped cedars, our visit, had we not lifted up over spruce, hemlock and fir. Two hundred the resort a couple of days later miles north of Whistler, it is pristine for the first and most spectacular bays, 5000-foot-high mountains and helicopter ride of our lives, to fish pink salmon that have never before for salmon. encountered people.

There’s plenty of life here; it’s just not human life. Chinook salmon, pink salmon, rainbow trout, cutthroat trout, Dolly Varden, Black bears, killer whales, humpback whales and sea lions abound.

The closest towns are Hopetown, population 5; and Sullivan Bay, summer population 6, winter population 0. A total of about 22 guests sleep in six separate intertidal chalets and three streamside cabins, all of them built with great care to disturb as little of this land as possible, by Craig and Deborah Murray more than 30 years ago.

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

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Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort British Columbia

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

The Murrays painstakingly brought by barge the rest of the resort, consisting of a floating dining lodge, kitchen, bakery and a dock with fire pit for cocktail hour and postprandial song. Still considering their responsibility to the environment ‘way back then, they situated the resort next to an enormous waterfall in order to use it for drinking water, hydropower and a hydroxyl waste management system.

Their son Fraser, 37, and his wife Becky (the spitting image of Britain’s Princess Kate) now run the resort, and Fraser, who was guiding guests at the age of 7, says “We don’t want to get bigger, just better.”

alcohols and wines, a different breakfast entrée each morning for seven mornings, and free mini bars in the cabins filled with fresh chocolate ganache bars, truffles and beverages of all kinds.

I don’t know how Nimmo Bay could get any better. All three meals, even if lunch is taken out on a whale-watch boat, are gourmet quality, with homemade breads and crackers, platters full of Dungeness crab, hors d’oeuvres of smoked salmon and goat cheese, the best

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

Photo by Julie Hatfield

You can soak in two different hot tubs situated just close enough to the waterfall that when you’re a little too warm you walk down the steps and jump into the pool at the bottom of the waterfall. If you must correspond with the outside world you can connect your devices using the resort’s password: “Finding Nimmo.”

If you want to hike up to the 500-foot Mount Stephens, a guide will give you a trail map, or join you.

Photo by Julie Hatfield

Photo by Julie Hatfield

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Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

But it’s the heli-fishing that makes Nimmo Bay stand out.

There are plenty of great wilderness fishing camps in this part of the world that will fly you to the camp and let you fish, but this is the only one that will helicopter you to the river, drop you down where the most salmon are jumping, hand you your gear, even take the fish off the hook for you in this catch and release program. There may be one other heli-fishing program in the world, in New Zealand, but Nimmo is the first to inaugurate it in North America, and may still be the only one in operation at this time.

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

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That’s because pilot Peter Barratt, whose motto is

“To Fly is Human. . .

To Hover, Divine,”

joined with Fraser Murray to start the program that brings guests from all over the world to enjoy this novel way of fly fishing.

After a sunrise yoga class and a massage, you pick out your size waders, overalls, jacket and anything else you need in the resort’s dry room, and then wait on the helipad for Barratt or another pilot to swoop in and pick you up. I will admit nervousness at the thought of lifting up over this rainforest and going higher than some clouds, but Barratt is so knowledgeable, experienced and fun that it doesn’t take long to relax, especially when he has you strap on your headphones and you hear coming from his sound system Coldplay, or U2, the Eagles, and the Rolling Stones’ “Start Me Up” as you gently lift off the pad.

This is heaven! Above the rainforest, looking down on untouched lakes the color of Waterman-blue ink and tiny rivers snaking through the woods.

Suddenly, Barratt exclaims “Look down there: see all the black in that river? That’s salmon, and a lot of them. Let’s go fish.” Gently, but quickly, we whoosh down to the river, where our pilot finds a small piece of gravel-covered land, sits us down on it, and gets out poles and flies from the rear of the ‘copter. We four throw our lines into the river and within seconds, the salmon are biting on all our lines.

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

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They’re everywhere, and hungry, and they return to bite as fast as we can get the lines back into the water. One man, Barratt recalled, asked after catching 20 or so fish, whether the pilot could take him to a river with fewer fish because his arm was tired.

We went up and down several different times throughout the day, just to see different fishing spots, different rivers and different kinds of salmon. For lunch: where else would you have lunch up here but on top of a glacier? From his trusty little back cabin, Barratt pulls out a folding table, tablecloth, chicken/bacon/ avocado and cheddar sandwiches, red or white wine, beer, watermelon, and brownies.

Just as we were thinking we were the only humans who had ever had lunch on this glacier, Barratt admitted that he had brought actress Michelle Pfeiffer up here with her husband David Kelly after Kelly had filmed a couple of Nimmo Bay segments for the television program “Boston Legal” in 2005. George and Barbara Bush brought their grandchildren here once (not to this glacier) and Virgin Airlines owner Richard Branson visited as well.

William Shatner was here to act in the tv special, and Robin Leach, who narrated the television program “Lives of the Rich and Famous,” filmed here as well. Nimmo is now listed in the book “1000 Places to See Before You Die,” just before Mount Everest.

Photo Courtesy of Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort

Photo by Julie Hatfield

Jim Flanigan of Toronto brought his wife and two teenage children here after he had come once by himself. “I would be doing them a disservice if I didn’t bring them,” he said. “It’s a homecoming; I wanted to share this with them.”

Venezuelan developer Luis Dini brought his wife Beatrice for their first time and said

“I cried when the helicopter picked us up; this is everything I’ve ever wanted to do; the whole package: fly fishing, the helicopter, the mountains.”

The Dinis, obviously, will return to Nimmo Bay.

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Ice Climbing • Heli-Snowshoeing • Fat Biking Stor y & Photos

By Jenn Smith Nelson

Ice Climbing at Johnston Canyon Upper Falls Banff National Park, Canada

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Johnston Canyon Trailhead

avigating the slick trails and winding pathways of Johnston Canyon in Banff National Park, sporting spiked crampons and toting ice picks, I looked fierce. I reveled in the canyon’s beauty all the way along until arriving at the Upper Falls, which would serve as my first foray into ice climbing destination.

Among the flow of frozen blue tinted ice, and just above the flowing waters of Johnston Creek, is where I would learn how to tie proper knots, set up harnessing gear, trust in the belaying efforts of my Yanmnuska Mountain Adventure guide, and try out newfound ice climbing techniques.

Crampons

Johnston Creek

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Learning ice climbing technique

A bit tired from the 2.6 km hike, the surreal nature of climbing a frozen waterfall took over and adrenalin fueled me onward. I started on the easier side of the falls, more appropriate for beginners.

After observing a demonstration of proper techniques, I stabbed my toes into the ice ensuring my footing, and swung my ice picks above, chipping away into the hard waterfall.

The actions came quite naturally and not surprisingly, reminded me of rock climbing. Completely safe with my guide belaying me from

below, I scaled upward numerous times, each round navigating slick and bumpy areas. Gaining quick confidence I moved on over to a more difficult pitch of ice and astounded myself with just how comfortable I felt as a newbie climber.

Evolving from rock climbing and other mountaineering activities, ice climbing’s appeal and popularity has been steadily increasing over the past couple of years.

anyone can do it, if not only for momentary admiration. But the truth is, ice climbing is something beginners can do. And really, who wouldn’t want to say they climbed a waterfall? It just takes a sense of adventure from those in relatively good shape who are willing to learn.

Yanmnuska Mountain Adventure guide

Tackling it sounds much more daunting then it really is. It’s almost worth keeping it a secret that most

Ice Climbing at Johnston Canyon Upper Falls

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Athabasca River, Jasper

estinations across Canada have been intentionally growing a diversity of winter offerings, including ice climbing. In particular, national parks have paved the way, maintaining park grounds and creating innovative experiences, along with developing attractive interpretive programming to draw in adventurer seekers.

Banff and Jasper National Parks, both in Alberta, are two of the country’s best places to give one of the new breeds of winter exploits a try. Getting outside and embracing the cold has never been more inclusive, accessible or fun.

Fat Biking Area Athabasca River, Jasper

After years of steadily tiptoeing into winter activities, starting with traditional ones like snowshoeing, skating, etc., and leading to more advanced outings such as dog sledding and winter camping, my thirst to capitalize on the snow and cold increased. As the time has gone I realized I’m far from alone.

Now it seems adventure travel during the cold season is in demand from everyday folks - those yearning to make the most of each and every month, opting to find ways to extend outdoor adventures, regardless of season.

During two trips this winter to Banff and Jasper, I had the opportunity to get knee deep in new sub zero experiences. Some tested my stamina, while others thrilled; and learning was part of each new lesson. From ice climbing and heli-snowshoeing to fat biking, star gazing and high-tech wildlife tracking; winter adventure was plentiful.

Vantage Point atop Lusk Hill

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Heli-snowshoeing area in the Kananaskis

Both parks not only fulfill the growing appetite for outdoor winter adventure, but also offer some of Canada’s most breathtaking views. One perfect way to take in such views is from above.

Heli-snowshoeing was heli-cool, plain and simple, especially when you get to act as co-pilot. Touring with Rockies Heli Tours based just outside of Kananaskis, was one of those things that turned out to be just as thrilling and wondrous as you first imagine it. Lifting off, seeking out snowy whitecapped mountaintops at around 100 mph, zipping and grazing over the beautiful Bow and Kananaskis Rivers, was nothing short of exhilarating.

dding in snowshoeing atop a mountain though, made this mix a true adventure. Weaving through forest trails, crunching through hard snow atop Lusk Hill (aptly named after the creek below) was peaceful in contrast to the exciting ride up. My sense of awe increased when sensing where my mesh-y steel footwear was leading me.

At a vantage point on the mountains edge, we stopped to sip hot chocolate and take in a birdseye view of the Rocky Mountain ranges including Fortress Mountain just across the way, and to the right Opal Range, opposite the Kananaskis Valley. Talk about really feeling on top of the world.

Another cool experience I was able to try, albeit at ground level, was fat biking, an activity also seeing a surge in popularity countrywide.

Heli-snowshoeing on Lusk Hill in Kananaskis Fat Biking in Jasper National Park

Jasper National Park is a national mecca for bike enthusiasts. Numerous trails, once thin wildlife pathways, have morphed into multiuse trail systems; well used amongst the active community of hikers, cross country skiers and riders. For those wanting to ride during the winter season, fat bikes prove to be an ideal solution.

With 4-5 inch tire widths inflated at ultra-low pressure and a seemingly complete lack of suspension, bouncing as you ride along is part its charm. The other main advantage includes the ability to navigate winter conditions of snow and ice (and in summer, the sand), comfortably.

Though there were scarce patches of white stuff due to an unusually warm March, I did get to give it a go on the ice. Throughout the 8 km ride, I thoroughly had fun and traversing trails with ease and a sense of lightness.

Our course took us from downtown through a loop of trails following the Old Lodge Road aside the Athabasca River, then up to near the Jasper Park Lodge where we edged around Lac Beauvert and the golf course before looping back. I was convinced by the trip’s end that I needed to add a fat bike to my at home fleet.

Guided Hikes along Jasper’s Pallisades

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Star Gazing & Animal Tracking in Jasper National Park uided hikes that offer interpretive programming by Parks Canada are also a great way to be active while exploring and learning.

After a short drive, I was ready to take in my first star gazing experience under the night sky at Pyramid Island in Jasper, the world’s second largest dark sky preserve.

Starting with what seemed to be counter intuitive instruction, our Interpreter instructed us to “Close your eyes and just listen.”

I was thinking ‘Shouldn’t we be looking up?’ I complied and took in the darkness, my eyes shut tight. Soon enough I heard the stirring sounds of the wind - much louder than it seemed than with my eyes open. Then there was the creaking. The icy waters of the island - shifting, melting, moaning and gurgling made me feel part of a very alive environment in the middle of nowhere.

After taking in the sounds of the night, I allowed my eyes adjust to the darkness. Taking in the millions of stars above, I stared upward in wonder, astounded by their pristine clarity.

First we saw the whitish band of the Milky Way, and then learned how to identify planets and easily visible constellations such as Orion. Before leaving we also mimicked calls of several owls that call the forest home.

The whole experience made me realize the nights also have superior offerings, especially for the senses.

My last outing would be a 2 km hike in Jasper’s Palisades, a concentrated pinch point for wildlife, to learn all about tracking using both traditional and high-tech methods.

World’s 2nd largest dark sky preserve for star-gazing

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The Palisades, a geological formation with sheer cliff face and vertical marks are found alongside the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16). Today the area’s historic buildings still stand. Once a settlement for homesteaders, it has since had several incarnations including as a dude ranch, and an RCMP and warden training centre.

As our hike began, our interpreter led us over to a tree and said, “We don’t always see animals walking through the woods but we see signs of it.” We looked up to observe an obvious clue that a black bear had climbed and slipped down this very tree. Then we headed over to a branch where another bear’s fur dangled in the wind.

As we made our way to where a series of camera trap stations, placed strategically in front of well used rubbing poles (aka - animal message boards), I got a good sense of just how popular this pinch point is as a wildlife pathway.

Jasper National Park has 80 or so camera traps set up to catch animal images during the day and at night, using infrared technology. The traps are used to count, observe and better understand animal behavior. We learned how they work, and then tried our hands at setting and testing them.

Using an iPad in the middle of the woods, our interpreter showed us captured images of wolves, bears, elk, and even elusive wolverines; all taken via camera traps – all along this very thin wildlife trail. The fascinating morning ended with us learning other ways wildlife is counted, tracked and monitored in the park - using high-tech collars and telemetry methods.

Animal Tracking

IF YOU GO:

Jasper Collecting Fur Samples

Eat at: EVIL DAVES – Family owned, fun atmosphere and (deliciously evil) fun food.

Sleep at: FAIRMONT JASPER PARK LODGE Pet friendly lodge perfectly situated.

Hike the Lac Beauvart trail in the morning or simply enjoy the warmed outdoor pool and hot tub. Also, don’t miss the spa!

Also try: Ice climb at the

Cataloging Fur Samples

EDGE OF THE WORLD, 1700 meters above sea level on Marmot Basin.

Go with Rockaboo tour company who also offer glacier travel courses and mountaineering. *If you are in the area for October, don’t miss the JASPER DARK SKY FESTIVAL.

Banff Using Telemetry to monitor animals

Eat at: GRIZZLY HOUSE – For those with an adventurous spirit or a deep love for fondue.

Food choices range from local beef to exotic meats (think rattlesnake and shark).

Sleep at: BUFFALO MOUNTAIN LODGE

Atop Tunnel Mountain, this luxury boutique hotel offers spacious rooms with large fireplaces and lovely claw foot tubs to soak in. Be sure to try dining in house as the fare is fresh, local and tasty.

Also try: APRÈS CLIMB, head over to Cedar & Sage and indulge in some après-wellness.

Chill in their serene and chic lounge while sipping away on a freshly squeezed juice from their juice bar.

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Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks—Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the gateway to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska.

Call 1-800-327-5774 for your free Fairbanks Visitors Guide.

Explore your Alaskan vacation at explorefairbanks.com.

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IT HAS THE POWER TO RECONNECT A FAMILY, REKINDLE A ROMANCE, REJUVENATE A SOUL.

We’re not sure exactly what it is around here, but something magical happens when you just add water to your vacation. From the natural healing powers of our mineral hot springs to the beauty of Hanging Lake. From the fun of the world’s largest hot springs pool, to the recreational paradise supplied by our two rivers. Dads act younger. Moms laugh more. Brothers actually don’t mind sisters as much. Couples rediscover each other.

And somewhere along the way, everyone remembers the feeling of unabashed joy.

That’s the power of our water.

Plan your Glenwood Springs getaway at VisitGlenwood.com.

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BEND, OREGON Home to Year-Round Recreation Story by John Gottberg Anderson

Trail Runner Broken Top Mountain Photo by Pete Alport Visit Bend

the Olympics three times (for crosscountry skiing in the 1980s), and I’m way more famous in Bend for winning ‘PPP,’” said Dan Simoneau — now nordic director for the Mount Bachelor Sports Education During four frenzied hours, they ski, Foundation, which stages the event. bicycle, paddle and run to the finish The race begins just below the line of the annual summit of 9,065-foot Mount U.S. BANK POLE PEDAL PADDLE RACE Bachelor, 22 miles southwest of Bend on the crest of the Cascade which in the high desert city of Bend Range, and finishes at Les Schwab holds more cachet than a berth on Amphitheater on the banks of the Olympic team. the Deschutes River. Winners are inevitably Olympic-caliber athletes.

“I won ‘PPP’ three times and went to But this is more than a race. It’s a community festival.

22 On one Saturday every May, thousands of Central Oregon residents gather as they have for 40 years to do what they love best — participate in a variety of sports.

For every athlete who tackles the course solo, there are hundreds of others who team with friends and turn it into a relay. There are men’s, women’s and coed groups, divided by age intervals, and even a category for company teams. Many competitors dress as if it’s Halloween, and everyone looks forward to the beer garden at the finish line.

Bend does, after all, boast MORE CRAFT BREWERIES than any other town of its size (85,000) in the world.

There are 27 in all, nearly one for every 3,000 people.

Pole Pedal Paddle is just one day in a year, but it’s symbolic of every other day on the 12-month calendar: Outdoor recreation plays a major role in the lives of those who reside here, as well as for throngs of vacationers.

“WE’RE THE ONLY PLACE I KNOW THAT CAN OFFER FOUR SEASONS OF WORLD-CLASS RECREATION, ALL IN THE SAME DAY,” said Steve Porino, a broadcast journalist for NBC and Universal Sports and a Bend resident.

Geography plays a huge role.

Flanking the Deschutes, a Columbia River tributary, the city sits at 3,500 feet elevation between the volcanic Cascades —summits swathed in snow, slopes covered with Ponderosa pine forests — and the juniper-and-sage badlands of the Great Basin. Annual precipitation is only about 12 inches, with fewer than 24 inches of winter snow.

Average temperatures range from the 30s in winter to the low 80s in summer.

Along with recreation, this mild climate lends itself to booming cultural scene. Visitors who come to play can immerse themselves in fine music, film, art and more.

“Bend is widely regarded as the premier outdoor playground of the United States,” said Visit Bend president Doug La Placa.

Mount Bachelor now has a lift-served bike park for downhill runs.

Mt. Bachelor Bike Park Photo by Nate Wyeth Visit Bend

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Rafting the Upper Deschutes

Photo by Nate Wyeth Visit Bend

Floating Deschutes River Photo by Barb Gonzalez

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RIVER SPORTS Boosted by a new whitewater park scheduled for completion in 2016, aficionados of rafting, kayaking and especially stand-up paddling (SUP) are enraptured by opportunities on their doorstep.

On any given afternoon, you can stand on the footbridge that crosses the Deschutes in the heart of Bend’s Old Mill District and watch paddlers of every persuasion make their ways down the river. During the dog days of summer, they are joined by scores of “floaters” — and sometimes, yes, their dogs — who beat the heat on a variety of rubber rafts, inner tubes, air mattresses and other vessels.

The new city project, called the Colorado Dam Safe Passage, incorporates a central whitewater play area with a riparian corridor and a channel through which boaters and floaters can safely travel without portaging around a once-hazardous dam. The central whitewater area is being developed by the Bend Paddle Trail Alliance, with computer-controlled features to alter wave patterns.

Canoeing

Photo by Barb Gonzalez

Fly Fishing

Photo by Ben Roman Visit Bend

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Mountain Biker

Photo by Nate Wyeth Visit Bend

TWO WHEELERS Scores of bicycles ply the roads of Bend. For many residents, it’s a preferred means of commuting to and from jobs, as designated bicycle lanes are well marked throughout the city. On July 4, bikes actually paralyze downtown traffic, as thousands of two-wheeled vehicles jam the streets in the unsanctioned but annual “Freedom Ride.”

That event precedes, by three weeks, the five-day Cascade Cycling Classic, an elite professional stage race that has attracted most of North America’s top cyclists and teams during its run of more than 30 years.

It is highlighted by a twilight criterion, a fast-paced loop through downtown streets that is Bend’s No. 1 spectator event of the year.

Bend is also a center for mountain biking, with a network of 277 miles of well-maintained single-track trails an easy ride from the center of town.

Mount Bachelor now has a lift-served bike park for downhill runs.

There’s plenty of year-round road-biking terrain in the region. And cyclo-cross, an all-terrain bicycle race that is growing in popularity, has twice held national championships in Bend.

For those who like the idea of bicycling without a lot of exertion, Bend also has electric bikes. “It’s so fun to see our customers light up with smiles, as they rediscover the joy of riding a bike,” said Kevin Rea, owner of Let It Ride!, which stocks Pedego bikes.

Cascade Cycling Criterion

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Photo by Barb Gonzalez

Smith Rock Climbers

FEET ON THE GROUND For those who prefer recreation with their feet on the ground, Bend has plenty of that. There are 5k and 10k “fun runs” almost weekly from spring through fall, along with a couple of half-marathons, marathons and triathlons. Heading the list — and featuring each one of those different races — is the late-June Pacific Crest Sports Festival in Sunriver, a resort village 15 miles south of Bend.

The Pacific Crest Trail, recently made famous in the movie “Wild,” starring Reese Witherspoon, extends through the Cascades’ Three Sisters Wilderness south of McKenzie Pass, just 40 miles west of Bend.

It is the highlight of a region that has no shortage of great trails for day hikers and long-distance backpackers.

Photo by Pete Alport Visit Bend

For outdoors lovers who prefer to go up, straight up, Smith Rock State Park satisfies every desire.

Located 30 miles north of Bend on a crook in the Crooked River, this venue is renowned as the birthplace of sport climbing in the United States. More than 1,800 separate routes engage rock climbers as they ascend cliffs that tower 500-plus feet above the river.

Smith Rock State Park Photo by Barb Gonzalez

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INNOVATIVE GOLF In golf, one doesn’t often risk life and limb, but don’t tell a diehard player that the game is any less challenging. There are more than two dozen golf courses within a half hour’s drive of Bend, including those designed by famed golfers Jack Nicklaus (Pronghorn), Bob Cupp (Crosswater at Sunriver) and Peter Jacobsen (Brasada Canyons).

Perhaps none is more innovative than Tetherow, whose links are the creation of resident Scottish course designer David McLay Kidd. It was here that surfing legend Laird Hamilton introduced his GolfBoard to the Pacific Northwest in late 2013, an invention that he hopes will speed up and revolutionize the game of golf.

Honored last year as “best new product” by the Professional Golfers Association, the device is an evolving adaptation of an electric skateboard, steered by weight shifting but sufficiently balanced to carry a full golf bag on front. “We’ve found that the distraction (of boarding) takes golfers out of their heads and improves their golf game,” Hamilton said. “We all want a change of perspective in a familiar environment.”

So successfully has it been received in Oregon, and at some 200 courses around North America and Europe, that GolfBoard Inc. has established world headquarters in Bend.

Laird Hamilton Golfboard at Tetherow Photo by Barb Gonzalez

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WINTER ACTIVITIES Long before Bend became a destination of renown for golf, bicycling or stand-up paddling, the former logging village was a winter-sports town. Mount Bachelor (then Bachelor Butte) ski resort opened in 1958 with a pomalift and two rope tows.

Today it has grown to become the largest alpine resort in the Cascades.

Ten chairlifts serve Bachelor, and another is under construction. From the summit of the dormant volcano, skiers and snowboarders can descend in any direction, with a vertical drop of 3,365 feet. The area claims nearly 3,700 acres of skiable terrain. And although 2014-15 was a bad season for snowfall (only about 17 feet), a record 55 feet fell just four years earlier, and the annual average is 38 feet.

Bachelor is a hub for other winter activities, too. It has 56km of nordic skiing trails (with a separate rental center), snowshoeing and even dog sledding. Several other snow parks in the resort’s vicinity serve additional trail networks along with snowmobile riders.

Backcountry terrain in the Three Sisters Wilderness is readily accessible. At least half a dozen sporting-goods stores in Bend offer rentals, sales and information.

Nordic Skiers

Photo by Wes Coughlin Visit Bend

Why Bend?

Author John Gottberg Anderson has lived in Bend since 2004.

Broadcaster Porino, a veteran of World Cup skiing and major cycling events who could live anywhere, is sold on Bend.

“Bend offers my perfect day in a way no other place does,” he said. “At heart, I’m a skier. In spring, I can rise with the sun, chase it around the circumference of a volcano for that perfect corn snow, and knock off by noon. By the time I hit town, I’m going to bump into spring or summer weather. If it’s only mid-50s, I’ll mountain bike. In the 70s, I’ll road ride and fish down on the middle Deschutes.

Between steelhead and trout, we have great fishing all four seasons.”

Most appealing to him, Porino said, is that “it really isn’t a resort town.

There’s a sense of permanence. Kids have grandparents here. I’ve lived in, and traveled to, countless recreationrich resort towns where authentic local spots are few and far between.

They’re everywhere in Bend.

We’re an island of civilization in a sea of open space and recreation.”

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A Little Grit and a Lot of Fun in the

Wisconsin North Woods Story and Photos by Linda Aksomitis

Linda Aksomitis driving her ATV through the mud hole.

L

Photo by Mike Terrell

ittle kids splashing through spring’s first thaw aren’t the only ones who get a thrill playing in mud puddles.

Indeed, while some of us crossed the twenty-foot long pothole last summer slow and easy, and others gunned their ATVs to splatter the nearby aspen with brown muddy speckles, all of us emerged with grins as wide as two-year-olds. While we’d traded our three-wheelers in for all-terrain vehicles we didn’t have to pedal, there wasn’t one of us on our morning trail ride who didn’t recapture that sense of fun kids instinctively possess.

The Wisconsin Northwoods have an extensive trail system that serves riders year-round, whether they’re mountain bikers or use motorized vehicles. ATVs (single passenger All-Terrain Vehicles) and UTVs (Utility Task Vehicles or side-by-side vehicles that carry two people and cargo) are popular in the summer, and snowmobilers flock to the area when the snow falls. While some trails are designated for one type of vehicle, Wisconsin also has many shared-use, year-round trails.

Since the 16-mile race (there’s also a longer Chequamegon 40 event) is limited to 2500 participants, organizers hold a lottery every year to determine who gets to ride.

I could only imagine how exciting it would be watch the start of the largest mass-start mountain bike race in the United States!

But since my bike pedaling skills had never passed that threewheeler stage, I was happy to explore the trails with a motor and four wheels. My trail riding My June visit preceded the event, adventure—rated by Trip Advisor but I heard a lot about the annual as the #1 rated tourist attraction Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival held on in Hayward—started at Hayward the trail from Cable to Hayward every Power Sports. Then, it was across September for off-road bicyclists. the highway and onto the trail.

R

UTV in a muddy spot on the trail

iding in the forest is always scenic, with ash, maple, walnut and oak trees to line the trail edges and keep the dust thrown up by other riders down.

The trail twisted and turned, with a new view around every bend. Half an hour into the ride, we pulled over beside a mud pit to give the most daring a chance to see what their machines would do. I’ll admit I wasn’t the first—I had to see how deep the water really was on somebody else’s machine—but I was the second.

I dropped the ATV gently off the hard packed gravel trail into the water. Too fast and I knew I’d be covered in mud from the splash, turning into a golemlike mud monster. A few feet in I remembered, too late, that I should have lifted my feet up off the running boards, as thick, dark water oozed over my once-white running shoes.

Midway through, the ATV sunk deeper and deeper into the mud, slowing. I wasn’t on the same path the previous machine had taken! I revved the engine, but not a lot happened. Then, more throttle—but still the ATV slowed.

Finally, my snowmobiler’s instincts kicked in. My feet were already covered with mud, so I stuck them back onto the water-covered running boards and rocked the ATV from side to side. In seconds I was up the other bank of the mud hole, turning around, and heading back to what was now a cheering group of spectators.

Feeling once again a child, I reveled in the fact that there’s nothing like the sweet taste of success, no matter what age you are.

UTV & ATV rentals getting ready to go out at Hayward Power Sports

UTVs coming through a muddy spot on the trail

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Lumberjacks climbing poles

Log rolling teachers & first-time students

Lumberjacks using a buck saw

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Learning to be a Lumberjack

hen you already have wet feet you might as well get out on the water and learn how to roll logs, right?

Well, take my word for it, if you can’t balance a two-wheeled bicycle, you’re unlikely to be able to spin logs on a pond and stay on top of them, instead of sitting in the water. I guess I was never meant to be a lumberjack!

Lumberjacking, though, is a traditional family sport in Hayward, as both spectators and participants at Fred Scheer’s Lumberjack show were mostly twenty-something or younger, and full of enthusiasm.

The show, which starts early season performances at the end of May, runs its hour-long event daily all summer (except Fridays) in the Lumberjack Bowl arena at Hayward (second location in Minocqua).

The Hayward site is also the location of the Lumberjack World Championships held annually in July since 1960, as well as the Lumberjack Village.

Lumberjack fun begins with an ear-splitting, “Yo ho,” greeting, and picks up momentum with the crowd’s every cheer. From the laughter at Charlie trying to win a log-sawing contest with a chain saw between his legs, to the race to

see which lumberjack can get to the top of a 60 foot pole the fastest, it’s a grand way to keep a traditional skill alive.

After the event I was lucky enough to attend log rolling “school” and meet some of the teachers, teen-aged girls already winning at the world championships. While our logs were fatter—thus slower spinning—than those used in the lumberjack show, none of us could make more than a few seconds upright on them. I figured I’d need to participate every week in open rolling nights, and on Saturdays, for the rest of my life, to even make it to a bull-rider’s eightsecond minimum.

More Sports and Recreation Fun I had so many things to do in the Hayward and Sawyer and Cable area, that I could have spent another week or two! Fishing, of course, is a must-do when you visit. I headed out on Lake Namakagon in search of walleye, bringing up nothing but an empty hook. On the other hand, my casting skill level increased dramatically. But others in my group pulled in trout on Big Brook (the Cable area has 70 rivers and countless streams home to more than 20 species of fish), along with musky and bass on the Namekagon and Chippewa rivers.

Although I didn’t catch any fish, I had my photo taken while I was in the jaws of a 200 foot long musky—a fiberglass, concrete and steel musky, that is, at the Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum. Even family members who might groan at hearing a museum is on the day’s itinerary will find this one fascinating, with its boat motor museum (1000+ antique motors), 300 mounted fish, and my personal favorite artifact, the hairy statue of the first fisherman (perhaps a cousin of bigfoot?).

I didn’t see any sign of bigfoot during my hike on the Forest Lodge Nature Trail near Cable, but the easy forest walk led me through a variety of habitats from upland hardwood forest to lowland tamarack bog and hemlock swamp, both of which are rare finds. Visitors can pick up a free, 32-page booklet, at the trailhead to help identify the various trees and plants.

Giant Musky at Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum

People in jaws of Giant Musky at Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum

Boat Motors at Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum Fishing

Linda Aksimotis with the “First Fisherman” Photo by Nasreen Iqbal

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And these are just a few more activities I squeezed into my week:

Golf at Spider Lake Golf Resort “Loon Pontoon” boat

Garnish USA Resort

(where I stayed in the very comfortable resort at Hayward)

Kayaking on the Namekagon River

(just a few miles away from my awesome B & B hosts, Jan and Jerry Parman, at Drumming Woods Bed & Breakfast) with a naturalist from the Cable Natural History Museum

Tree on the Forest Lodge Nature Trail

Mike Terrell and his dog on the Forest Lodge Nature Trail

Kayaking

Kayaking

IF YOU GO:

Hayward Power Sports: http://www.haywardpowersports.com/ Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival: http://www.cheqfattire.com/ Fred Scheer’s Lumberjack Show: http://scheerslumberjackshow.com/ Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum: http://www.freshwater-fishing.org/ Forest Lodge Nature Trail: http://www.travelwisconsin.com/ cross-country-skiing-snowshoeing/forest-lodge-nature-trail-198637 Spider Lake Golf Resort: http://spiderlakegolfresort.com/index.html Drumming Woods B & B: http://www.drummingwoodsbandb.com/home.html Cable Natural History Museum: http://cablemuseum.org/adult-naturalist-programs/ Cable Area Fishing: http://www.cable4fun.com/play-see/fishing Canoeing/Kayaking/Tubing on the Hayward Lakes: http://haywardlakes.com/canoeing.php

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“Loon Pontoon” boat ride with the Cable Natural History Museum AUTHOR’S BIO: Linda Aksomitis spends her working hours in the virtual world, teaching online courses on how to write and publish on the Internet (see her personal website: www.Aksomitis. com), and every other minute she can squeeze out of the day having adventures around the world. She hopes to inspire other fun loving baby-boomers to find out-of-the-ordinary experiences with her travel website: www.guide2travel.ca

South Carolina’s REVOLUTIONARY RIVERS

Listen closely. The waters of the Pee Dee & Lynches Rivers whisper stories of swampy battlefields, colonial rice fields and routes to freedom. Retracing the past from Native American settlements to the island hideout of the Revolutionary War’s Swamp Fox, your outdoor adventure becomes a history lesson you will never find in a book.

Don’t just read history... paddle history. visitflo.com/screvrivers 37

St. Croix, USVI A scuba diver’s delight Story & Photos by Debbra Dunning Brouillette

There are very few places in the Caribbean where scuba divers can plan dives on a reef, a wall, a shipwreck, and then do a night dive under a pier — all in one day, or more likely, spaced throughout several days. St. Croix, the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, is one of those places. It is a great destination for scuba divers of all experience levels, as well as for those who would like to learn.

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I recently returned to St. Croix for the first time in two decades.

My travel companions included three experienced divers and two who signed up for PADI’s Discover Scuba program before arriving in St. Croix.

Our island home for the next four nights was the Renaissance Carambola Beach Resort, where we settled into spacious beachfront suites. Dives for the certified divers in our group had been scheduled over the next several days with four of the island’s top dive operators.

Sea Fan Coral Reef St. Croix

Healthy coral reefs abound off the shores of St. Croix.

Scuba diving changed my life… and my travels By Debbra Dunning Brouillette

Coral Nursery Cane Bay The coral nursery at Cane Bay is part of the Nature Conservancy’s coral restoration project.

Turtle - Cane Bay

LEARNING TO SCUBA DIVE CHANGED MY LIFE. Although I’d been a beach lover since childhood, I hadn’t put my face in the water for years until I was encouraged to try snorkeling while vacationing at an all-inclusive resort in Jamaica.

Green sea turtles, like this one at Cane Bay, were a welcomed sight, since they are designated as threatened by the Endangered Species Act.

I credit Barney, one of the watersports staff working at Sandals Montego Bay in 1990, with helping me to have a positive first snorkeling experience, which is so important for anyone who may go on to learn to dive, or to just be a comfortable snorkeler. I entered the water with more than a bit of trepidation, holding tightly to his hand as I lowered my face, outfitted with mask and snorkel, into the water and first saw the neon colors of the fish and coral below. Slowly, I relaxed and recall my joy at watching an octopus move across the sandy bottom.

Then and there, I was hooked. (Barney, wherever you are, I thank you.) (cont’d.)

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Wall Diving

Shore Diving

Night diving

All along the north shore of St. Croix, an underwater cliff starts at depths of 30 feet and drops to over 13,000 feet. Several of the best sites for wall diving are at Salt River Canyon. We boarded Dive Experience’s boat at the Christiansted Pier for a short ride to its West Wall, ideal for both novice and advanced divers.

Before entering the water, our dive guide gave us a pre-dive briefing on what we could expect to see and what our maximum depth and bottom time would be.

Cane Bay, considered one of the premier dive sites in the Caribbean, is one of only a few places in the U.S. Virgin Islands where shore diving is possible. Divers can explore a reef and a wall on the same dive. Shore diving can be a bit challenging for new divers, but the waters at Cane Bay are calm, making entry from the white sand shore relatively easy. With our BCs (buoyancy compensators) inflated, we fin-kicked on our backs until our Dive Cane Bay guide indicated it was time to descend. On our way to the wall, which starts at a depth of 40 feet, we stopped to swim around a staghorn coral nursery, one of several established by the Nature Conservancy to re-establish coral in damaged areas of the reef.

For me, the night dive under the Fredericksted Pier was the highlight of our stay. It was the site of my first night dive 20 years ago. I still recall the anxiety I felt as I sank beneath the waters to enter a world I’d only recently become accustomed to seeing in the light of day. This time, there was less anxiety but just as much exhilaration.

A Southern stingray greeted us as we descended to the sandy bottom of the reef and then passed by schools of blue tang and other reef fish darting in and out of crevices before reaching the top of the wall.

While we swam along its face, slowly reaching our maximum depth of 70 feet, we also scanned the deep blue of the ocean, hoping a spotted eagle ray, reef shark or other larger, pelagic fish would come into view, but none made an appearance during our limited time under the sea.

Night Dive

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A green turtle sleeps inside a large barrel sponge.

Wreck Diving N2theBlue Scuba Diving hosted dives at St. Croix’s wreck diving mecca, Butler Bay, on the island’s north tip. The site includes five distinct wrecks at both shallow and deep depths, so divers of all experience levels can visit some or all of them during the course of two dives. The Rosa Maria a 177foot steel-hulled freighter, is the deepest at 110 feet. Suffolk Maid, a 144-foot trawler that ran aground during a 1980’s hurricane, and the Northwind, a prop in the television movie, Dreams of Gold: The Mel Fisher Story, are two shallow wrecks at Butler Bay.

We received a dive briefing from our guides at Sweet Bottom Dive Center as the setting sun cast its golden light on the surface. One by one, we jumped from the pier using a giant stride entry—the best way to enter the water from large boats and piers.

I released the air from my BC and began clearing my ears to equalize the pressure that builds within the ear canal until I reached the bottom at 25 feet.

Equipped with a small flashlight, which helped to illuminate my shadowy surroundings, I began making my way among the coral encrusted pillars of the pier. I first sighted a spindly brittlestar starfish clinging to the brightly colored growth. On the next pylon, a green sea turtle slept inside a large barrel sponge. A group of divers congregated around a seahorse, a creature rarely seen on daytime dives, its tail anchored to a thin coral strand. I swam a short distance from the pier to watch several large, cushion starfish, illuminated by flashlights of fellow divers, move across the sandy bottom into the blue, then I reluctantly followed one of our guides to the exit point. It was our last dive of the trip and I didn’t want it to end.

Night Dive Briefing

Cushion Stars

Night Dive Brittlestar Coral

Night Dive Fireworm

Divers are briefed before entering the water for a night dive under the Fredericksted pier.

Cushion stars, one of many varieties of starfish, move across the sand on the night dive.

A brittlestar starfish clings to a coralencrusted pylon under the Fredericksted pier.

Don’t touch the fireworm!

It has a powerful sting.

Following that trip, I was challenged by my traveling companion to take scuba diving lessons, which would include classroom instruction at a local dive shop and skills training at a local university’s pool. At first I said, “No way!” but as I watched television programs about the underwater world, I became more and more captivated by the life found under the sea and agreed to try it.

“No guarantees,” I said, but, step by step, I finished the training and after a weekend trip to Panama City, Florida, to complete open water dives in the Gulf of Mexico, I was officially certified by PADI, one of several certifying agencies in the world, as an Open Water diver, deemed qualified to dive to recreational limits of 135 feet.

That was in 1992, and 23 years later, I’ve logged more than 170 dives off the shores of many of the islands I’ve visited, which translates to over 113 hours spent underwater.

Being a scuba diver has changed me in many ways. It has changed the course of my travels and has heightened my interest and awareness of the state of the world’s oceans.

I am also more committed to efforts being made to protect the amazing diversity of life within them, and to preserve and restore our coral reefs.

Scuba diving has opened my eyes to a different world that exists below the surface of the sea, one that I’ve been privileged to enter. If you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to breathe underwater via SCUBA (Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus), and experience the sensation of weightlessness as you explore the beauty below the surface of the water, I’d urge you to try it.

Suspend any fears you may have; I can almost guarantee you they are unfounded. Your life, like mine, may be changed forever.

~

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Buck Island

To become a certified diver, A Haven For Snorkelers Discover Scuba participants must complete the full certification While St. Croix seems ready-made course, which includes classroom for divers, snorkelers should be instruction and several open water sure to visit Buck Island Reef dives. The classroom portion of National Monument, as we did scuba certification can be finished on our last day via an excursion via PADI’s online e-learning with Caribbean Sea Adventures. program in lieu of an on-site Buck Island is recognized for its classroom. Learn more at www. underwater snorkeling trail spread PADI.com. over 704 acres of protected reef, established in 1962 by President Why dive (or learn to John F. Kennedy.

PADI’S

Discover Scuba program While we were completing our first two days of diving, our “wannabe” diver friends learned how to set up their equipment, clear water from their masks, and equalize the pressure in their ears as part of PADI’s Discover Scuba program. The abbreviated course allowed them to use their new skills on two shallow dives, under the supervision of a certified Divemaster.

After a successful dive to 20 feet on the first day, they joined us the following day on the reef portion of our shore dive to a maximum depth of 30 feet.

Find out More

Photo by Renaissance Carambola Beach Resort

Cane Bay Dive Shop

dive) in St. Croix or another of the U.S. Virgin Islands?

Because the U.S. Virgin Islands are a U.S. territory, divers enjoy the added safety of diving within U.S. waters.

Shore Diving Cane Bay One of the premier shore diving sites in the Caribbean.

The U.S. Coast Guard inspects all dive boats and captains are USCG certified. St. Croix is the most dive-focused island of the USVI.

Getting There

Access to St. Croix is easy, since it is a U.S. territory and a passport is not required to visit. Direct flights to St. Croix (STX) originate from several U.S. gateways, including Atlanta, Miami, Newark, Charlotte and Philadelphia.

USVI Tourist Board – www.VisitUSVI.com Dive Experience – www.divexp.com Cane Bay Scuba – www.canebayscuba.com Sweet Bottom Dive Center – www.sweetbottomdive.com N2theBlue Scuba Diving – www.n2theblue.com Caribbean Sea Adventures – www.caribbeanseaadventures.com Renaissance St. Croix Carambola Beach Resort – www.carambolabeach.com

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Renaissance Carambola’s Beach

Dive Boat on the way On the way to Salt River Canyon, one of St. Croix’s best sites for wall diving.

Buck Island “Touching Kills Coral” sign

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Cyclists enjoy the wide, level bike paths throughout this region

Pastoral scene along the bike path

Bicycling in Belgium Story and Photos by Deborah Stone ‘Chamois Butt’r is for your buns, not your bread!’

“Try some Chamois Butt’r,” said Barbara, with a knowing chuckle.

“It’s for your buns, though, not your bread!” I was instantly all ears about this special cream that cyclists claim has magical powers when it comes to easing sore butts. Barbara had taken pity on me after watching me ever so gingerly get on and off my bike. It was day three of a week-long cycling tour through Flanders, a region encompassing parts of Holland and Belgium, and my derriere had begun to protest in earnest. I gratefully applied the supposed wonder balm and hopped back on my bike, hoping for the best. I don’t know if it was a psychosomatic response or whether it was the fact that my rear end had

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become sufficiently calloused, but the stuff actually worked. And I no longer needed to engage in what I called, “one cheek on the seat” style of riding.

A sore butt was the only complaint I had during my European cycling trip – a trip awash with many memorable sights and experiences. As I had never been on a cycling adventure, I chose my destination based on a few factors: flat terrain (no Pyrenees for me!), plenty of historic sites and picturesque scenery, a country with a reputation for good food and a notably cycling-friendly populace.

I began my journey in Brussels, a cosmopolitan city that oozes charm

from its pores with a mix of modern and traditional elements and French, Flemish and German influences.

Among its many districts is the famed Grand-Place, once described as the “most beautiful theatre in the world.”

This iconic square with its imposing Gothic and Neo-Gothic style buildings, cobblestone streets, bustling market stalls and colorful splashes of flowers at every corner is a treat for the senses.

People here appreciate fine food, fashion and art, and they covet their leisure time.

Sitting at one of the ubiquitous outdoor cafes in summer is a frequent pastime; one which I quickly became enamored with because of the opportunity it presented to people watch. The food, though, is reason enough.

Picture perfect windmill

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Chocolate shops abound with eye=popping confections lined up like trophies in the windows

Belgium waffles are adorned with all sorts of goodies

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I

n this gastronomic city, as well as throughout the region, you’ll find most every type of cuisine. I felt free to indulge, as cycling thirty to fifty miles a day and doing a fair amount of walking gave me the license to eat heartily. It’s the country’s famous Belgian waffles, “frites” (fries), chocolate and beer that get the most notoriety when it comes to culinary specialties. Chocolate shops abound with eye popping confections lined up like trophies in the windows. Their wafting aromas seduce you as you stroll the streets. These compete with the smell of crisp fries from the chip stands and the sweet, warm scent of baked dough from the waffle carts. And then there’s the beer. Nothing comes between Belgians and their beer.

There are hundreds of different types and each has its own unique glass embossed with the beer’s logo. Do as the locals do and savor them slowly, appreciating each brew’s individual characteristics and flavors.

Cyclists toast to another day of cycling

Cheese reigns supreme

Nothing comes between Belgians and their beer!

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Grand-Palace is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe

F

rom Brussels, I went to medieval Middleburg, Holland, which is where my Austin Lehman Adventures’ “Flavors of Flanders” cycling tour officially began. Some days our ride took us through the bucolic countryside, past traditional Dutch windmills, artisan cheese factories, pastoral farms and tiny hamlets. Other days, we biked along the canals, through forests, atop the dunes and next to the sea. Our guide Tom drove the support van and would magically appear at various stopping points on the route, with snacks, water and a perpetually warm smile.

It’s important to note that many cycling tour guides typically don’t ride with their groups unless the group is large and warrants two leaders. Cyclists are given route directions, distances and maps at daily briefings, along with information about notable sights along the way, pre-determined lunch stops and any other pertinent data.

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Guides drive along or in the vicinity of the route and periodically check on their group to ensure that no one gets lost. They’re also available to lend assistance with bike repairs if needed. Additionally, they transport the luggage from hotel to hotel, make dinner arrangements, join the group for most meals and attend to all other details of the trip.

I admit, I was a bit taken aback when I learned I would have to read maps and follow directions, as opposed to mindlessly following a guide. But, no one rides alone.

Participants band together in small pairs and trios and help each other find their way. Within my trio, we each took turns being in the lead, though we all paid attention to signs, landmarks and mileage to keep one another on track. By the time the week was up, I felt a sense of pride at mastering the ability to follow the route while remaining upright on my bike – no small feat for a directionally-challenged klutz!

Brussels street scene

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O

ne of my favorite places along our route was Bruges, Belgium’s Cinderella city. This romantic, canallaced town is a jewel box, overflowing with historical treasures. Horses and buggies clip clop down the

Ghent is another of Belgium’s historical wonderlands

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cobblestone streets, bells ring from the multitude of churches, boats and preening swans glide through the waterways and outdoor cafes beckon you to rest your weary feet, after taking in all the fascinating sights. And believe me, there are many, from museums with extensive collections of medieval art to ancient churches containing tombs of past nobility. This is a city that begs to be walked, though you should first hop on a boat tour to gain a feel for the layout of the place before exploring it on foot.

Bruges’s well-preserved medieval architecture is among the most impressive in Europe. Imposing red brick buildings, gabled facades, towering spires and ornate guildhouses (once occupied by the various trades that helped establish Bruges’s prominence during medieval times) will wow you as you explore this miniature Venice. Before leaving, make sure to climb the 366 steps of the 260 feet tall Belfry in the Market.

You’ll be rewarded with awesome views of the city and beyond.

Though Bruges was a definite highlight of my cycling tour, some of the smaller villages were equally enchanting, such

Bruge is a fairytale city dominated by picturesque canals

as Damme and Veere, with their sweet cottages, immaculate gardens and old Gothic style town halls.

These peaceful havens were far from the hubbub of city life and as I cycled through them, I felt closer to the people. Riding a bike allowed me to make a more personal connection with the culture. And I was able to do it at my own pace, with the ability to stop and smell the tulips.

It was interesting to note that cycling is a way of life in this area of the world, with everyone from children to senior citizens sporting a bike. They use it as a significant means of transportation to get to school and to work. And they cycle to the stores to shop and do their daily errands. I saw women in high heels, men with briefcases and children with their schoolbags all riding bikes. Bike paths abound and drivers are respectful of cyclists. People I encountered along the way were friendly and always willing to lend assistance when needed.

The final stop on the tour was Ghent, another city that earns top marks in the charm department. With its famed churches, museums and Gothic and Renaissance style buildings and monuments, it, like Brugge, is an historical wonderland. Take a carriage trip through the ancient heart of the town at night when the inner city is illuminated and you’ll feel like a character out of a fairytale.

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Roosevelt River EXPEDITION Story & Photos by Jeffrey Lehmann

PBS Host of “Weekend Explorer”

ROOSEVELT RIVER once called “Rio de Dúvida” (River of Doubt)

Dangerous AMAZON RIVER tributary which nearly killed Theodore Roosevelt

A M A Z O N A D V E N T U R E 53

A M A Z O N A D V E N T U R E 54

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The Roosevelt River, a perilous paradise

Looking down at the dark roiling river reflecting the dense jungle, I almost couldn’t believe I was actually here. I have imagined this place ever since I was 11 years old and first spotted the familiar name Roosevelt curiously in the heart of the Brazilian Amazon. Since that time, I have read all about that first scientific expedition 100 years ago down what was then called the “River of Doubt.”

That expedition was led by the Brazilian hero Candido Rondon and co-commanded, mostly in name, by adventurer and past president Theodore Roosevelt.

This large expedition faced starvation and many other dangers, and three of its members perished. Near death due to an infected wound, Roosevelt wanted to commit suicide to keep from holding up the rest of the party. He was only prevented by his gallant son. Still, he lost a quarter of his body weight and the expedition is believed to have shortened his life considerably. The river was re-named in his honor. The Roosevelt River is the chief affluent of the Madeira River, which is in turn a chief affluent of the Amazon River, the largest river in the world.

The still remote Roosevelt River hasn’t changed much over the last 100 years. As I stand awestruck at my first sight of the river, a beautiful pair of blue-andgold macaws come flying down the river squawking, making it seem to me like a wild paradise. But, I’m not

naïve. These dark waters hide crocodiles and piranha and the forest harbors jaguars and poisonous snakes among countless other dangers. Ahead of me lies 500 miles of wild river, and though it’s a dream come true I know it will call upon a lifetime of adventure experience to even survive the trip.

In 2013, a longtime friend, Professor Marc Meyers, casually brought up the Roosevelt River while we were sharing some wine over-looking the Pacific Ocean.

He was surprised I knew of it. Marc described his nearly lifelong desire for a scientific expedition on this river, and he wanted me to document it. Marc’s fascinating research focuses on biomimicry, the study of evolutionary design to solve modern engineering A large crocodile surfaces (feet away from Jeffrey swimming)

R O O S E V E L T

Deep Jungle Camp

Colonel Angonese scouting

problems. And, he focuses on Amazon animals. I felt the science, history, and environmentalism made this an once-in-a-lifetime adventure, and I immediately joined his effort.

More than a year later, we sat at the remote launch site with the help of GPS, satellite imagery, and locals. The “Roosevelt River Centennial Scientific Expedition� included just Marc, myself, and two Brazilian Army colonels, both with valuable knowledge of the Amazon. Colonel Ivan Angonese, a 20-year jungle veteran, including encounters with the notorious Colombian FARC, and Colonel Hiram Reis Silva, who led military road construction in the Amazon.

The heat was pervasive, and on reaching the river I just wanted to jump in the water but wisely hesitated at the thought of piranha. Hiram then carefully got in thigh deep. This was all the invitation I needed. I spent the rest of the trip up to my nose in the cooling waters whenever possible.

Dog Fish, one of 5,600 + Amazon fish species

With my engineering background, I wanted to make my own scientific contributions. So, I determined to map a cross section of the river and estimate its flow at points along the way. I also made an extensive guide of the fauna seen on the original expedition to allow comparisons to our sightings.

R I V E R E X P E D I T I O N 55

Colonels Angonese and Hiram portaging

Packing Supply Canoe

A M A Z O N A D V E N T U R E 56

M

Portaging around Naivete Falls

Jeffrey at Launch site

Mornings started very early--many just shortly after 4 a.m.

We had kayaks that carried a small amount of provisions while the supply canoe carried everything else. I referred to them as the “Ferraris and the semi.” My primary role of supplying the muscle power for the canoe was clear to me early-on. I jokingly referred to myself as a “camarada,” the word for the paid peasant paddlers of TR’s expedition.

I prepared for the trip by gaining more than 10 pounds, referring to my extra weight as “insurance.” When ribbed

by Colonel Hiram, I jokingly shot back that I knew what happened the last time a Brazilian Colonel took an American down this river.

In its upper reaches, the Roosevelt River is narrow, winding and swift. In many places a single fallen tree can stretch across the entire river. I knew from engineering and being a trained whitewater raft guide that kayaks are faster, more maneuverable, and have shallower drafts. The first day proved this over-and-over again as the heavier canoe required an earlier response, more skill and paddling power to do the same thing the kayaks did with ease. Many times the kayaks would pass right over a shallow rock or branch that then would hang-up the canoe, a dangerous prospect in such a remote place.

Portaging through the jungle is grueling

We ate gruel for breakfast and either freeze-dried camping meals or a rice, onion, garlic, and dried meat concoction popular with the Brazilians for dinner. This was often augmented with freshly caught fish. I ate twice as much as the others, what Marc referred to as “double rations”.

Still, there was almost no English spoken only Portuguese.

On the third day, we came on Naiveté Falls that Roosevelt described,”It seemed extraordinary, almost impossible, that so broad a river could in so short a space of time contract its dimensions to the width of the strangled channel through which it now poured its entire volume.” We were no less fascinated. The water initially tumbles over a wide waterfall, but then is forced through a constriction that you could jump across. My measurements show that the river is literally turned on its side. Marc and I found it fascinating that this constriction had not been eroded away, and we collected rocks for testing.

One night, Angonese was on shore catching piranha around me while I soaked exhausted. I felt a twinge on my arm like when you hit your funny bone.

My foggy, exhausted mind was slow to register, ELECTRIC EEL! As I took a step toward shore, BAM! I was blasted in the arm by a jolt akin to sticking wet fingers in a live electrical socket. As I tried to take another step, BAM! I was hit with another jolt to the leg causing me to fall back into the river. Fortunately, I regained my footing and escaped. Eels regularly kill humans here. Yet, for all their years’ experience, the others had never encountered one. I had been there just three days! This started a running joke that Amazon animals “liked” me.

And, I saw a lot of animals the others did not. I stayed up for hours each night doing camera work as the others slept. Plus, I am usually a light sleeper.

Although the jungle is often alive with sounds in the night, an incongruent noise would wake me from a dead sleep. The very first night it sounded like someone was walking up to my tent. I said, “Hello?!

Hello?!” But, no one answered. I grabbed for my headlamp and there was a 9-Banded Armadillo feet from my tent. I reached back for my camera, and

the animal was gone. Another night, it sounded like a rhino was coming right for me. I exploded out of my tent thinking I was about to be trampled only to come face to face with a Giant Anteater, who was just as startled to see me. He turned tail and fled back into the jungle. It’s important to remember that every animal here earns its place, just this past summer two men were killed by anteaters in separate incidents.

Each morning, I felt like the boy with a big tale to tell.

Fortunately, each time we would find paw prints or other proof to back up my story.

Each day the river widened, eventually to more than half a mile. After the fourth day, there was little or no flow. This turned my job of paddling the supply canoe 20 to 30 miles a day into a herculean task, like running a marathon every day. Still, everyone contributed and helped each other to make this expedition a success. Angonese was like a super scout. He packed and unpacked the canoe, cleared space for tents, collected firewood, hung the protective tarp for our fire, and caught fish to eat.

Hiram constantly poured over printed-out satellite images of our route to determine up-coming rapids and appropriate camps.

Colonel Angonese with a beautiful Peacock Bass

Naivety Falls causes the river to literally be turned on it’s side

R O O S E V E L T R I V E R E X P E D I T I O N

The Roosevelt River’s many waterfalls have helped protect it from development

Colonel Angonese and Professor Marc Meyers test the bite strength of a piranha

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A M A Z O N A D V E

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It is hard to describe the pervasiveness of insects. The air is literally dark with them around sunrise and sunset, and their buzz sounds like rush hour traffic on a Southern California freeway. I was what the Brazilians like to call “New Blood”. For every bite the Brazilians received, I’d receive countless more. My face was mauled daily with photos showing 60 bites or more at any given time on just one side of my face.

The entire experience is surreal. The jungle is so thick it is like a prison. And, the river is the only way out. The jungle doesn’t just go to the water’s edge, it protrudes over and into it. Often, I would paddle for many miles overheating and with legs cramping from being folded up for too long.

Yet, there wasn’t a single foot-wide clearing on which to stop and get out for a few minutes rest and stretch. And, the embankments were typically very steep. Many times, I had to resort to just jumping out of the canoe into overthe-head high water. This made getting back into the canoe without tipping it over a real challenge.

Before I left California, I dreaded the idea of paddling in the rain all day, every day. But, I ended up praying for it when I got to the Amazon. The rain blocked the brutal rays of the sun and cooled me down. Most days it would rain three to five times, sometimes torrentially like one to two inches an hour, but, ironically, during the day, with everything packed in relatively water resistant dry bags, it rarely would rain and the sun would beat brutally down on us. But, the minute everything was unpacked to make camp, a downpour would often ensue.

There was not a single night that I do not remember seeing lightning. Even if the sky was filled with stars above us, there would be lightning somewhere in the distance. It was magnificently beautiful to see these flashes of light backed by dramatic black clouds with the golden hues of sunset filling the rest of the sky.

Over 100 bites a day from insects

Survival in the Amazon requires head-to-toe sun protection

N T U R E 58

This clearing required hiking our equipment up a hillside

The “Bare Necessities”

R O O S E V E L T

Working hard to document the expedition in arduous conditions

R I V E R E X P E D I T I O N

We paddled over 20 miles to get to this small sand spit to camp

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A M A Z O N A D V E

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It rained literally every single night. My greatest hope was just to be able to set-up my tent and try to protect my camera equipment, before it began to pour. And, it was still miserably hot. I thankfully bought an expensive hot weather tent for this expedition. This allowed me to fold up the rain fly and enjoy the cooling air while being protected from insects, when it was not raining. Then, deploy the rain fly quickly when it started to pour. This inevitably happened just as I was immersed in a deep dream at 1 or 2 in the morning. I slept in just skivvies, still wet from my nightly soaking in the river to cool down. I’d take off the rest of my wet clothes once in the tent and use those as a cooling blanket and pillow. Even if rain did not fall from the sky, most mornings the heavy moisture -laden air in the form of fog, would create rain. This was not a drip here and there, but rather bona fide rain. There was never a time things dried out completely, and the stench of mildew became pervasive.

One night there was a torrential down pour for a couple of hours. I was transferring images to multiple back-up drives to go in different boats in case one of the kayaks or the canoe was flooded or lost. After the rain, it cleared up and there wasn’t a cloud in the dark starry sky.

Suddenly, there was a booming clap just on the other side of the river like a bomb had gone off.

Often we would hear great trees come crashing down somewhere deep in the veiling jungle.

This night, however, the sound was different and seemingly a 1,000 times as loud, like a thunderclap. But, there was no storm. I kept looking out my tent expecting to see a bright flash of light emanating from where the sound was issuing, but there was none. This continued throughout the night. The next morning Marc explained what created the booms. Young trees in their race for survival shoot up to reach sunlight. Then, their trunks expand and The Amazon jungle covers the land and protrudes out over the water

N T U R E 60

Endangered Giant River Otters are a common sight

strengthen to support their weight. When it rains hard, huge amounts of water race up a tree’s trunk.

The additional weight of this water becomes too much for some young trees still strengthening their trunks, and they actually split under the axial compression load. Marc believes this critical failure causes the crack to propagate faster than the speed of sound that in turn causes a sonic boom. I christened this natural phenomena exploding trees.

There is not room enough here to fully describe the piranha attacks, the dangerous endangered Giant River Otters, an encounter while swimming with an aggressive giant crocodile, hostile Indians, the menacing jaguar, an encounter with the dreaded and very poisonous stingray, an aggressive troop of huge wild monkeys descending from above, mishaps in the rapids, and so much more that happened. And, we have only begun to analyze the scientific information.

Yet, it’s worth mentioning our post expedition weigh-in. The Brazilians ribbed me that with all the food I had eaten I’d probably weigh more. This, even after Angonese’s daughter had texted after seeing a group photo on the successful completion of the expedition asking: “What did you guys do to Jeffrey?!” I had tried to maintain my “insurance” weight, but paddling that canoe was hard work. And, a scale doesn’t lie. Despite eating twice as much as the others, they lost just three to five pounds each while I lost 20.

.......

The Roosevelt River is an incredibly unique wilderness that will disappear in the next few years without protection. My new ambition is to work with my Brazilian friends to create a World Heritage Site of the entire 500 miles.

R O O S E V E L T R I V E R

Insects and flowers abound

E X P E D I T I O

Colonel Hiram snaps this shot of a tapir, while Jeffrey films it

N A deceivingly serene visage of a deadly river

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DESTINATION INFORMATION EXPLORE BRANSON, MO

Branson, Missouri, nestled in the lakeside beauty of the Ozark Mountains, is America’s affordable, wholesome family entertainment capital that emphasizes fun, comfort and the feeling of being right at home.

Featuring an array of live theaters and attraction venues and active recreational pursuits, the community embodies essential American values such as patriotism, faith, courage and generosity of spirit in a warm inviting atmosphere that is truly genuine and heartfelt. www.explorebranson.com

UNITED STATES ALABAMA

Greater Birmingham Conv. & Visitors Bureau (205) 458-8000 http://www.birminghamal.org Hunstville/Madison County Convention & Visitors Bureau (256) 551-2235 http://www.huntsville.org

ALASKA

Explore Fairbanks 907-459-3770 http://www.ExploreFairbanks.com

ARIZONA

Sedona Chamber of Commerce (928) 282-7722 http://www.visitsedona.com

ARKANSAS

Little Rock Convention & Visitors Bureau 501-370-3224 www.LittleRock.com North Little Rock Visitors Bureau 501-758-1424 www.NorthLittleRock.org

CALIFORNIA

Long Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau (562) 495-8345 http://www.visitlongbeach.com/ Visit Oxnard (805) 385-7545 http://www.visitoxnard.com

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VISIT PHOENIX, AZ

Desert character. It can’t be conjured, landscaped or kindled with twinkling bulbs.

Projected against this rugged backdrop is a panorama of charm: Resorts and spas infused with Native American tradition. Golf courses that stay emerald green in the middle of winter. Mountain parks crisscrossed with trails.

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Restaurants that invite you to dine beneath sunshine or stars.This is the desert you never knew. Discover it. www.visitphoenix.com

DISCOVER OXNARD, CA

Nestled along the Pacific Coast between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, Oxnard, California offers everything you need for a great vacation. Catch a boat out of our scenic marina for a whale watching cruise or to explore the Channel Islands National Park, “America’s Galapagos.” Enjoy miles of uncrowded beaches and oceanfront bike trails. Grab a kayak, ride the ocean on a paddle board, soak up Southern California’s beautiful-year-round weather.

Play at our world-class golf courses and taste local wines along the Ventura County Wine Trail. Celebrate the sunset. It’s time to discover Oxnard! www.visitoxnard.com

(CALIFORNIA cont’d.)

(FLORIDA cont’d.)

Visit Palm Springs (760) 778-8415 www.visitpalmsprings.com

Visit Tampa Bay (813) 342-4052 http://www.visittampabay.com

San Diego Zoo Global (619) 685-3291 http://sandiegozoo.org/

LOUISIANA

Team San Jose 408-792-4175 http://www.SanJose.org (California)

COLORADO

Glenwood Springs Chamber Resort Assoc.

(970) 945-5002 http://www.glenwoodchamber.com/

CONNECTICUT

Litchfield Hills and Fairfield CountyWestern CT CVB (860) 567-5406 http://www.visitwesternct.com/

FLORIDA

Franklin County Tourist Development Council (850) 653-8678 http://www.saltyflorida.com/ Santa Rosa Tourist Development Office (850) 939-2691 http://www.floridasplayground.com/

Alexandria/Pineville Area Conv. & Visitors Bureau (318) 442-9546 http://www.theheartoflouisiana.com/index.cfm Jefferson Convention & Visitors Bureau 504-731-7083 www.ExperienceJefferson.com West Baton Rouge Convention & Visitors Bureau 225-344-2920 www.WestBatonRouge.net

MASSACHUSETTS Open the Door, Inc. 617-536-0590 http://www.openthedoor.biz/

MICHIGAN

Greater Lansing CVB (517) 377-1423 http://www.lansing.org/

MISSISSIPPI

Visit Natchez (601) 446-6345 http://www.natchez.org

MISSOURI

Visit Sarasota County (941) 955-0991 http://www.visitsarasota.org

Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce & Convention & Visitors Bureau (417) 243-2137 http://bransoncvb.com/

Lee County CVB (239) 338-3500 www.leecvb.com

The Beenders Walker Group (573) 636-8282 http://www.tbwgroup.net/

TRAVEL TRIVIA ANSWERS: (from quiz on page 4) 1 Mt. Bachelor 2 British Columbia 3 Touching kills coral 4 Star Gazing and Animal Tracking 5 Toughening your buns for long bicycling trips 6 “River da Duvida” (The River of Doubt)

VISIT PALM SPRINGS

GLENWOOD SPRINGS, CO

Palm Springs, California is known for its storied Hollywood legacy, Native American heritage and stellar collection of mid-century modern architecture. Palm Springs is California’s ultimate desert playground. It truly is like no place else. Lounging by the pool and soaking up the sun is always a favorite pastime. If you want to explore the outdoors and enjoy the beautiful climate, there are plenty of activities. Soar to the top of Mount San Jacinto on the world famous Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, hike scenic trails and stroll through the ancient palm groves in the Indian Canyons, or take an off-road excursion of Joshua Tree National Park or the San Andreas Fault.

Take a ticket to your next Colorado Rocky Mountain adventure by exploring “America’s Most Fun Town,” Glenwood Springs, Colorado! For over a century, visitors from around the globe have added Glenwood Springs to their travel itineraries. Our destination is family friendly, affordable, and blessed with a remarkable mix of geological wonders including hot springs, vapor caves, two rivers and a canyon, surrounded by the glorious Rocky Mountains. Whether you crave hiking, biking, fishing, outdoor activities or relaxing spa time, you’ll find it all in Glenwood Springs.

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NEW YORK

Finn Partners 212-715-1600 www.FinnPartners.com Turning Stone Resort Casino 800-771-7711 www.TurningStone.com Ulster County Tourism 845-340-3568 www.UlsterTourism.info

NORTH CAROLINA Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (252) 473-2138 www.outerbanks.org

OREGON

City Pass (503) 292-4418 www.citypass.com/ Lincoln City Conv. & Visitor’s Bureau (541) 996-1271 www.lincolncity.org/

PENNSYLVANIA

Camelback Lodge & Indoor Waterpark 608.206.5796 www.CamelbackResort.com Camelback Mountain Resort 608.206.5796 www.SkiCamelback.com Camelbeach Mountain Waterpark 608.206.5796 www.Camelbeach.com

RHODE ISLAND

Newport, Rhode Island CVB (401) 845-9117 www.GoNewport.com

www.glenwoodchamber.com

VISIT SALTY, FLORIDA

We’re Salty! If you’re looking for the old Florida experience you’ll find it in Franklin County. Tucked along Florida’s Panhandle, the coastal communities of Alligator Point, Apalachicola, Carrabelle, Eastpoint, and St. George Island offer beaches, history, adventure and fresh Apalachicola Bay seafood served up in an authentic “salty” setting. Relax on award-winning, pet-friendly beaches, climb historic lighthouses, charter eco-tours and fishing trips or bring your own gear and enjoy camping, paddling and hiking on acres of wooded trails and miles of quiet streams. Tee up on a championship golf course, enjoy live theatre performances in an historic venue and browse local galleries, museums and shops. Fresh local seafood is served at more than 30 area restaurants and local seafood markets.

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SOUTH CAROLINA

WASHINGTON

SOUTH DAKOTA

Whidbey and Camano Islands Tourism (360) 629-7136 http://www.whidbeycamanoislands.com/

lorence Convention & Visitors Bureau (843) 664-0330 www.VisitFlo.com Aberdeen Area Convention & Visitors Bureau (605) 225-2414 http://www.visitaberdeen.com

TENNESSEE

Cherohala Skyway National Scenic Byway (423) 442-9147 http://monroecounty.com/

San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau (360) 378-6822 http://visitsanjuans.com/

WEST VIRGINIA

Pocahontas County CVB (304) 799-4636 http://www.pocahontascountywv.com/

Visit Knoxville 865-523-7263 www.VisitKnoxville.com

TEXAS

Galveston Island CVB (405) 797-5152 http://www.galveston.com Visit Big Bend 432-837-3915 www.VisitBigBend.com Virtuoso Life Magazine 817-334-8680 www.Virtuoso.com

VIRGINIA

Hampton Convention & Visitor Bureau (VA) (757) 728-5316 http://visithampton.com/ Visit BNorfolk Today (757) 664-6620 http://wwwvisitnorfolktoday.com

CANADA QUEBEC

Quebec City Tourism (418) 641-6654, 5421 http://www.quebecregion.com

MEXICO PUERTO VALLARTA Visit Puerto Vallarta (212) 633-2047 www.visitpuertovallarta.com

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