Alimentaire Cookbook

ALIMENTAIRE

porc

poisson

champignons

pomme de terre

moules

citron

JULIA CHILD

ALIMENTAIRE

MASTERING THE ART OF FRENCH COOKING by simone beck louisette bertholle julia child new york alfred a knopf 1964 photography by grant cornett

L. C. Catalog Card Number: 61- 12313 This is a Borzoi Book, Published By Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. Copyright Š 1961 By Alfred A. Knopf. Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages and reproduce not more than three illustrations in a review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper. Manufactured in the United States of America and distributed by Random House, Inc. Published in Canada by Random House of Canada, Limited.

Published October 1961 Reprinted Four Times Sixth Printing, May 1964

to

LA BELLE FRANCE whose peasants, fishermen, housewives, and princes - not to mention her chefs through generations of inventive and loving concentration have created one of the world's great arts

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Kitchen Equipment

3

Definitions

11

Ingredients

15

Measures

20

Temperatures

24

Cutting

26

Wines

31

Chapter I- Soups

37

Chapter II- Sauces While Sauces Brown Sauces Tomato Sauces The Hollandaise Family The Mayonnaise Family Vinaigrettes Hot Butter Sauces Cold Flavored Butters List Of Miscellaneous Sauces Stocks And Aspics

54 55 66 76 79 86 94 96 99 105 106

Chapter III- Eggs Poached Eggs Shirred Eggs Eggs In Ramekins Scrambled Eggs Omelettes

116 116 122 123 125 126

Chapter IV - Entrees And Luncheon Pie Dough and Pastry Shells Quiches, Tarts, and Gratins Soufflé And Timbales Pâté à Choux, Puffs, Gnocchi, and Quenelles Crepes Cocktail Appetizers

139 139 146 157 175 190 196

Chapter V - Fish Fish Fillets Poached In White Wine Two Recipes From Provence Two Famous Lobster Dishes Mussels List of Other Fish Dishes

207 208 218 220 226 232

Chapter VI - Poultry Roast Chicken Casserole-roasted Cllicken Sauteed Chicken Fricasseed Chicken Broiled Chicken Chicken Breasts Duck Goose

234 240 249 254 258 265 267 272 282

Chapter VII - Meat Beef Lamb and Mutton Veal Pork Ham Cassoulet Liver Sweetbreads Brains Kidneys

288 288 328 350 375 389 399 405 409 413 416

Chapter VIII -Vegetables Green Vegetables Carrots, Onions, And Turnips Lettuce, Celery, Endive, And Leeks The Cabbage Family Cucumbers Eggplant Tomatoes Mushrooms Chestl1uts Potatoes Rice

421 423 476 489 496 499 501 505 508 517 520 528

Chapter IX-Cold Buffet Cold Vegetables Aspics Molded Mollsses Pates And Terrmes List of Other Cold Dishes

536 536 544 558 564 576

Chapter X - Desserts And Cakes Fundamentals Sweet Sauces And Fillings Custards, Mousses, And Molded Desserts Sweet Souffles Fruit Desserts Tarts Crêpes Clafoutis Babas Alld Savarins Ladyfingers Cakes

579 579 588 594 613 623 632 648 655 658 665 667

MEASUREMENT american spoons and cups

french equivalents

liquid ounces

liquid grams

1 tsp (teaspoon) 1 Tb (tablespoon)

1 cuillère à café 1 cuillère à soupe, cuillère à bouche or verre à liqueur

1/6 1/2

5 15

1 cup (16 Tb) 2 cups (1 pint)

1/4 litre less 2 Tb 1/2 litre less 1/2 décilitre

8 16 (1 pound)

227 454

4 cups (1 quart) 62/3 Tb

9/10 litre 1 décilitre 1 demi-verre

32 3 1/2

907 100

1 cup plus 1 Tb 41/3 cups

1/4 litre 1 litre

81/2 2.2 pounds

250 1000 (1 kilogram)

conversion formulas american, british, metric

gram-ounce equivalents

to convert

multiply

by

grams

ounces

Ounces to grams Grams to ounces Liters to U.S. quarts Liters to British quarts U.S. quarts to liters British quarts to liters Inches to centimeters Centimeters to inches

The ounces The grams The liters The liters The quarts The quarts The inches The centimeters

28.35 0.035 0.95 0.88 1.057 1.14 2.54 0.39

25 30 50 75 80 85 100 125 150

0.87 1.0 1.75 2.63 2.8 3.0 3.5 4.4 5.25

cup-deciliter equivalents 1 deciliter=62/3 tablespoons cups

deciliters

1/4 1/3 1/2 2/3

0.56 0.75 1.13 1.5

3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/3

1.68 2.27 2.83 3.0

1 1/2 1 2/3 1 3/4 2

3.4 3.75 4.0 4.5

13

TEMPERATURE fahrenheit centigrade degrees decrees (american and british)

american oven temperature terms

french oven temperature terms

160 170

71 77

#1

200 212 221

93 100 105

Très Doux; Étuve

225 230 250 275

107 110 121 135

Very Slow

284 300 302 320 325

140 149 150 160 163

Slow

350 356 375 390 400

177 180 190 200 205

Moderate

410 425 428 437 450

210 218 220 225 232

Hot

475 500

246 260

Very Hot

525

274

#8

550

288

#9

british oven thermostat settings

#2 doux #3

#1/4 (241 f ) #1/2 (266 f )

Moyen; Modéré #4

Assez Chaud; Bon Four #5

#1 (291 f ) #2 (313 f ) #3 (336 f ) #4 (358 f ) #5 (379 f ) #6 (403 f )

Chaud #6

#7 (446 f ) #8 (446 f )

Très Chaud; Vif #7

#9 (469 f )

15

PORC

Pork may be roasted slowly in an open pan in a 32 degree oven, and basted occasionally with a spoonful or two of wine, stock, or water to aid in the dissolution of its fat. But we think pork is more tender and juicy if it is browned in hot fat, then roasted like veal in a covered casserole. This slow, steamy cooking tenderizes the meat and renders out the fat very effectively.

16

PORC BRAISÉ AUX CHOUX ROUGES

Serves: 4

Pork Braised with Red Cabbage

Braised red cabbage

Braise the cabbage for 3 hours in a 325-degree oven, following the directions in the recipe.

A 3-lb. boneless roast of pork A hot platter Salt and pepper

Brown the pork in hot fat in 1 skillet. After the cabbage has cooked for 3 hours, place the pork in the casserole with the cabbage. Cover the casserole and return it to the oven to braise for two hours more or until the pork is done.

Then place the pork on a platter, drain the cabbage and arrange it around the pork. Correct seasoning. Degrease and season the cooking juices, and pour them over the cabbage.

19

POISSON

These are only more complicated than the preceding soufflĂŠs in that each requires fish filets poached in white wine, and each is accompanied by a delicious type of hollandaise called sauce mousseline sabayon. The fish may be poached ahead of time, and the soufflĂŠ sauce base as well as the hollandaise may also be prepared in advance. Remember that if the hollandaise is to wait, it must be kept barely warm or it will thin out. If it is set aside to cool, reheat it very gently and not too much.

20

SOUFFLÉ DE POISSON

Serves: 4-6

Fish Soufflé

A 6-cup soufflé mold 1 cup butter 1 Tb grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese

Butter the mold and sprinkle with cheese. Measure out ingredients.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Fish

Grind half the fish; you will have 2/3 to 3/4 cup of purée. Set it aside.

Following directions for fish filets in white wine on page 208, season the rest of the filets. arrange them in a buttered baking dish with the shallots, wine, and enough water barly to cover them. Bring to the simmer, cover with buttered paper and bake in bottom third of oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until a fork just pierces them easily. Strain out all the cooking liquor, boil it down in an enameled saucepan until it has reduced to 1/4 cup, and set it aside until later for your sauce mousseline sabayon.

3/4 lb. skinless flounder filets 1/4 tsp salt Pinch of pepper 1 Tb minced shallots or green onions 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth

Soufflé 21/2 Tb flour 3 Tb butter A 21/2 -quart saucepan 1 cup boiling milk 1/2 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper The ground fish 4 egg yolks 5 egg whites A pinch of salt 1/3 ( 11/2 ounces) grated Swiss cheese

Cook the flour and butter together slowly in the saucepan for 2 minutes without coloring. Off heat, beat in the boiling milk, salt, pepper, and ground fish. Boil, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Remove from heat and immediately beat in the egg yolks one by one.

Beat the egg whites and salt until stiff, page 159. Stir one fourth of them into the soufflé mixture. Stir in the cheese. Delicately fold in the rest of the egg whites.

Turn a third of the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold. Cut the poached fish filets into 2-inch strips about 1/2 inch wide, and arrange half of them over the soufflé. Cover them with half the remaining soufflé mixture, and arrange the rest of the filets over it. Cover them with the last of the soufflé mixture. Sprinkle the cheese on top, and set the mold in the middle level of the preheated, 400-degree oven.

Immediately reduce heat to 375 degrees, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the soufflé has puffed and browned and a needle or knife plunged into the side of the puff comes out clean. While the soufflé is cooking, prepare the following sauce as an accompaniment. Serve the soufflé as soon as it is done.

23

CHAMPIGNONS

Fresh, cultivated mushrooms are an essential element of French cuisine and appear not only as a vegetable or in a garnish, but as an important flavor factor in numerous dishes, sauces, and stuffings.

Mushrooms should never be submitted to prolonged cooking or they will lose most of their taste and texture. Therefore if they are to go into a sauce they are usually cooked separately, then added to the sauce to simmer a moment and blend their flavor with the sauce.

24

CHAMPIGNONS SAUTÉS À LA CRÈME

Serves: 4-6

Creamed Mushrooms

1/2 lb. fresh mushrooms 1 Tb butter 1 Tb oil 2 Tb minced shallots

Saute the mushrooms in hot butter and oil for 4 to 5 minutes, but do not allow them to brown any more than necessary. Add the shallots or onions and toss over moderate heat for 2 minutes.

1 tsp flour

Stir in the flour and cook slowly for 2 minutes more, stirring.

2/3 to 1 cup whipping cream 1/8 cup salt Pinch of pepper Optional: 2 to 3 Tb Madeira

Off heat, blend in the cream and seasonings. Then boil down rapidly until the cream has reduced and thickened. Add the optional wine, and boil for a moment to evaporate its alcohol. Correct seasoning. May be set aside and reheated later.

1 to 2 Tb softened butter

Off heat and just before serving, fold in the butter.

27

POMME DE TERRE

Two whole heads of garlic will seem like a horrifying amount if you have not made this type of recipe before. But if less is used, you will regret it, for the long cooking of the garlic removes all of its harsh strength, leaving just a pleasant flavor. Garlic mashed potatoes go with roast lamb, pork, goose, or sausages. Although both garlic sauce and potatoes may be cooked in advance, they should be combined only at the last minute; the completed purĂŠe loses its nice consistency if it sits too long over heat, or if it is cooked and then reheated.

28

PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE À L’AIL

Serves: 6-8

Garlic Mashed Potatoes

2 heads of garlic

Separate the garlic cloves. Drop into boiling water, and boil 2 minutes.

Drain. Peel.

A 3 to 4-cup saucepan 4 Tb butter 2 Tb flour 1 cup boiling milk 1/4 tsp salt Pinch of pepper A wooden spoon 21/2 lbs. baking potatoes A potato ricer A 21/2 quart enameled saucepan A wooden spoon 4 Tb softened butter Salt and white pepper 3 to 4 Tb whipping cream 4 Tb minced parsley A hot, lightly buttered dish

Cook the garlic slowly with the butter in the covered saucepan for about 20 minutes or until very tender but not browned.

Blend in the flour and stir over low heat until it froths with the butter for 2 minutes without browning. Off heat, beat in the boiling milk and seasonings. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Rub the sauce through a sieve or puree it in the electric blender. Simmer for 2 minutes more.

Peel and quarter the potatoes. Drop in boiling salted water to cover, and boil until tender. Drain immediately and put through a potato ricer.

Place the hot purée in the saucepan and beat with the spatula or spoon for several minutes over moderate heat to evaporate moisture.

As soon as the purée begins to form a film in the bottom of the pan, remove from heat and beat in the butter a tablespoon at a time. Beat in salt and pepper to taste.

Shortly before serving, beat the hot garlic sauce vigorously into the hot potatoes. Beat in the cream by spoonfuls but do not thin out the purée too much. Beat in the parsley. Correct seasoning. Turn into hot vegetable dish.

31

MOULES

Mussels, with their long, oval, blue-black shells and delicious pink-orange flesh are often called the poor man's oyster. Clinging to rocks and piers along the seacoasts everywhere, they can be had for the picking at low tide. If you are gathering mussels yourself, take them only from places washed by clear, clean, sea water.

32

MOULES À LA BÉARNAISE

Serves: 6

Sauced Mussels Served in Scallop Shells

Mussels

Steam the mussels open in wine and flavorings, following the method for moules à la marinière, page 227. Shell the mussels and place them in a bowl. Strain the mussel cooking liquor into an enameled saucepan and rapidly boil it down over high heat to concentrate its flavor. Taste it frequently as it boils; you may find that if you reduce it too much, the salt content will be overpowering. Measure out 1 1/2 cups of the concentrated liquor to be used in the following sauce.

5 to 6 quarts mussels

Sauce 1/4 tsp curry powder A pinch of fennel 1 clove mashed garlic 3 Tb butter 4 Tb flour A 2-quart enameled saucepan A wooden spoon A wire whip 2 egg yolks 1/2 cup whipping cream A mixing bowl A wire whip A wooden spoon Salt and pepper Drops of lemon juice

Scallop Shells 4 to 8 Tb softened butter 6 buttered scallop shells Parsley sprigs

Stir the butter and pour over low heat in the saucepan until they foam and froth together for 2 minutes without coloring. Remove roux from heat.

Strain the hot mussel cooking liquor into the flour and butter roux, being sure not to add any sand that may have collected at the bottom of the mussel kettle. Beat roux and liquid with a wire whip to blend thoroughly. Bring to the boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Sauce will be very thick.

Blend the egg yolks and cream in the mixing bowl. Gradually beat in the hot sauce, in a thin stream of droplets. Pour the sauce hack into the pan. Set over moderately high heat and stir with a wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottom of the pan, until the sauce comes to the boil. Boil 1 minute, stirring. Remove from heat and taste carefully for seasoning, stirring in salt, pepper, and drops of lemon juice if necessary. Fold the mussels into the sauce.

Just before serving, and off heat, fold the butter into the hot sauce and mussels 1 tablespoon at a time. Fold until each bit is absorbed before adding the next. Heap the mixture into the shells, decorate with parsley, and serve immediately.

35

CITRON

French dessert tarts, like French entree tarts and quiches, are open faced and stand supported only by their pastry shells. They should be beautiful to look at, especially the fruit tarts which lend themselves to gliuering arrangements of rosettes and overlapping circles.

36

TARTE AU CITRON

Serves: 8

Lemon or Lime Souffle Tart

Shell

When you back the shell let it barely color so it will not brown too much when it goes again into the oven.

A 10-inch, cooked, sugar crust shell A wire whip A 3- to 4-quart stainless steel bowl 1/2 cup granulated sugar 4 egg yolks

Citrus The grated rind of 1 lemon or 2 limes 3 Tb lemon juice or lime juice A pan of not-quite-simmering water A wooden spoon Optional: a candy thermometer 4 egg whites A pinch of salt 1/4 cup granulated sugar Powdered sugar in shaker

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Gradually beat the sugar into the egg yolks and continue beating until mixture is thick, pale yellow, and falls back on itself forming a slowly dissolving ribbon. Beat in the rind and juice. Set bowl over not-quitesimmering water and stir with wooden spoon until mixture is too hot for your finger (165 degrees), and thickens enough to coat the spoon lightly. Be careful not to overheat it and scramble the egg yolks.

Beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks are formed; sprinkle on the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks are formed (page 159).

Fold the egg whites delicately into the warm lemon or lime mixture and turn into the tart shell.

Bake for about 30 minutes in middle level of preheated oven. When tart has begun to puff and color, sprinkle with powdered sugar. It is done when top is lightly brown, and a needle or knife plunged into the center comes out clean.

39