TRIBU#4 by TRIBU Magazine

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F A B E R G É P R O U D LY U S E S G E M F I E L D S C O L O U R E D G E M S T O N E S

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VIVE ELLE THE NEW DIAMOND COLLECTION FROM THE HOUSE OF BUCHERER

An exquisite design inspired by art deco – a celebration of beauty and a tribute to the joie de vivre of the 1920s.

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Genève 45, Rue du Rhône & 22, Rue du Mont-Blanc | bucherer.com

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Women Collection

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES RUE DU RHÔNE 40 · 1204 GENEVA · TEL. +41 (0)22 312 59 39 BAHNHOFSTRASSE 28 · PARADEPLATZ · 8001 ZURICH · TEL. +41 (0)44 220 11 80 www.blancpain.com

TRIBU MAGAZINE

FOUNDER & EDITOR IN CHIEF Mafalda M. Kyambel

ART DIRECTION Mafalda M. Kyambel

Assistant Editor Emmanuel Sanga

Visual Communication & Graphic Design Mafalda M. Kyambel | Jonathan Fernandez

Senior Editor Alice Brace ART Senior Editor Alice Brace CULTURE Senior Editor Bérénice Magistretti Editorial Contributors Alyaa Kamel FASHION Senior Editor Mafalda M. Kyambel

PHOTOGRAPHER Vincent Edmond Louis Contributors Photographers Martin Z'Graggen | Julie Strasser | Tisa Sencur FILMMAKER India Belce Kennedy | Arnaud Delaunoy CONSULTING Cédric Fiema ADVERTISING Virginie Marchand advertising@tribumagazine.com

Editorial Contributors Murray Clark Bérénice Magistretti

FINANCE Enrique Bernedo finance@tribumagazine.com

DESIGN Senior Editor Alice Brace

PUBLISHING & PRINT TRIBU Media publishing & Communication SARL

Editorial Contributors Léa Villette

LETTER TO THE EDITOR info@tribumagazine.com TRIBU Magazine International Representative Office: TRIBU Media publishing & Communication SARL Place de Grenus 4 | CH 1201 Geneva, Switzerland WWW.TRIBUMAGAZINE.COM DISTRIBUTION Geneva - Zurich - Paris - London - Berlin - New-York Hong-Kong - Beijing - Shanghai - Tokyo - Sydney

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EDI -TORIAL This piece is dedicated to my mother BĂŠatrice, who I love and miss dearly. Unfortunately, life has taught me that there are some pains which never leave us , but which we learn to live with. Which make us stronger. Time is precious , it is a treasure which must be used wisely , a God-given gift. Learn and gain from it , be honest with yourself , love those around you. We will be, we will live, we will become...

"My dear mother , I recently re-read your letter , so tenderly written. My dear mother, how I long to be with you ! If only you knew that each day I find ways to love you more. How could I ever have made you cry ? When I think of how I made you doubt my love, it upsets me deeply. If only you knew, mother. You were the best thing in my life. This evening, I feel for you like a child might feel homesick. Tell me that up there you are walking and talking, and that we might be together again , and that your gentleness is with you and that you don't need me as a support. It is true that I am brought to tears tonight . It's true that you are the only consolation when I am sad. When I was a child with my school bag on my back, crying because I'd been punished , all was forgotten when you took me in your arms. You were the greatest support. We felt secure in your home, and of course, now you are that shelter; it's you who knows all, who makes us forget everything whether we want to or not, who makes us feel like little children . I remember you tenderly." Antoine de Saint-ExupĂŠry To you, my dear mother, I will love you always!

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holly -words Jesus Calls His First Disciples

And it came to pass, that, as the people pressed upon him to hear the word of God, he stood by the lake of Gennesaret,

And saw two ships standing by the lake: but the fishermen were gone out of them, and were washing their nets.

And he entered into one of the ships, which was Simon's, and prayed him that he would thrust out a little from the land. And he sat down, and taught the people out of the ship.

Now when he had left speaking, he said unto Simon, Launch out into the deep, and let down your nets for a draught.

And Simon answering said unto him, Master, we have toiled all the night, and have taken nothing: nevertheless at thy word I will let down the net.

And when they had this done, they inclosed a great multitude of fishes: and their net brake.

And they beckoned unto their partners, which were in the other ship, that they should come and help them. And they came, and filled both the ships, so that they began to sink.

When Simon Peter saw it, he fell down at Jesus' knees, saying, Depart from me; for I am a sinful man, O Lord.

For he was astonished, and all that were with him, at the draught of the fishes which they had taken:

And so was also James, and John, the sons of Zebedee, which were partners with Simon. And Jesus said unto Simon, Fear not; from henceforth thou shalt catch men.

And when they had brought their ships to land, they forsook all, and followed him.

And it came to pass, when he was in a certain city, behold a man full of leprosy: who seeing Jesus fell on his face, and besought him, saying, Lord, if thou wilt, thou canst make me clean.

And he put forth his hand, and touched him, saying, I will: be thou clean. And immediately the leprosy departed from him.

And he charged him to tell no man: but go, and shew thyself to the priest, and offer for thy cleansing, according as Moses commanded, for a testimony unto them.

But so much the more went there a fame abroad of him: and great multitudes came together to hear, and to be healed by him of their infirmities.

And he withdrew himself into the wilderness, and prayed.

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SUM -MARY

ART

CHAD WYS "Readymades" / 34

STEPHEN CHAMBERS "The Gangs Of New York " & "Trouble Meets Trouble" / 44 FRIEDERIKE REVEMAN "Playtime" / 52 GALLERY FRANCK PAGÈS / 58

VINCENT CALMEL "Trauma" / 64 CULTURE

NICOLE FALONY LIEBER "Presious Story" / 74 BOYHOOD "The Magic of Time" / 80 FASHION

ETHICAL FASHION "A Fashionable Way Out of Poverty" / 88 MARIO TESTINO "Story of a Photographer" / 100 KANYE WEST CRAZY YEEZY / 108

CLEO FERIN MERCURY "Neo-nautical" / 116 LUXURY

CLÉ DE CARTIER "A new in-house movement" / 122 PRECIOUS TIME / 138 LA BARONNE DE ROTHSCHILD / 166 FABERGÉ JEWELLERY "Secret garden " / 174 PASQUALE BRUNI / 180

HUBLOT "Big Bang 10 Years Anniversary "/ 186 VAN DER BAUWEDE "Fine jewellery" / 190 GRAFF "Nuage Collection" / 196 DIOR JEWELLERY / 200 JACOB & CO / 208 FRANC VILA / 216

DE GRISOGONO "The Beauty of Audacity" / 220

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SUM -MARY

LIFESTYLE

HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE / 226 ARNOLD & JULEN / 238 DESIGN

FONDATION VUITTON / 246

YVAN PROKESCH "An Obsession with Detail"/ 258 ON THE ROAD

URUGUAY NATURAL / 274 LITERARY

FEMME / 294

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NOT ONLY M I NE BUT A PAR T OF ME F V EV O S 18 “ C o b r a ” Su sp e nde d Sk e l e t o n FRANC VILA manufactured calibre FV18 Limited edition to 88 pieces

www.francvila.com / info@francvila.com BOUTIQUE: 6, Grand Rue, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41 22 317 07 27 24 - TRIBU MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTORS ALICE BRACE SENIOR EDITOR ART | CULTURE LONDON | PARIS

INDIA BELCE-KENNEDY ASSISTANT EDITOR ART DIRECTOR ASSISTANT JUNIOR VIDEO PROJECT MANAGER CULTURE | DESIGN GENEVA

ARNAUD DELAUNOY JUNIOR VIDEO PROJECT MANAGER CULTURE | DESIGN GENEVA

ALYAA KAMEL SENIOR EDITOR LITERARY GENEVA

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CONTRIBUTORS JONATHAN FERNANDEZ GRAPHIC DESIGNER | MANAGER GENEVA

ANASTASIA BELOEIL SENIOR EDITOR CULTURE | FASHION PARIS

BERENICE MAGISTRETTI SENIOR EDITOR CULTURE GENEVA

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THANK MADAME LA BARONNE DE ROTSCHILD NADINE DE ROTSCHILD

GROUPE SIDA GENÈVE & COALITION PLUS DAVID PERROT & DÉBORAH GLEISER

BON GÉNIE CLAUDIA TORREQUADRA

SPARKLE ALTHEA NERI

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K YOU HUBLOT JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER ANAÏS TREAND

DE GRISOGONO JASMINE GORGE BORJA VIDAL

TAG HEUER MARINE LEMONNIER

BUCHERER KELLY SZABADOS

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TRANSPHERE SA

HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE SIMON ALLAIN FRONT DESK TEAM

FRANK PAGÈS GALLERY

ALFA SÉCURITÉ SÀRL MIGUEL ALFAYA

ERIC VALDIEU FINE ARTS

NEST GALLERY TARA HACKING – MANAGING DIRECTOR MÉLANIE BORÈS – GALLERY MANAGER THANK YOU FOR THEIR CONTRIBUTION AND PARTNERSHIP IN THE ART SECTION FOR THE ARTICLE SERBIA 2013 : TOWARDS A BETTER WORLD

MODELS: NICOLE FALONY LIEBER M. PIERRE-ALAIN & MS. GABRIELE GRAS M. FRANK & MS. MANDANA PAGÈS M. DANIEL & MS. MARIA PENSEYRES

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l’élégance par nature

www.bongenie-grieder.ch

ART

CHAD WYS "READYMADES" Article by ALICE BRACE

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Words by ALICE BRACE | Image credit to Chad Wys | www.chadwys.com ©

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Chad Wys (pronounced “Chad We-s”, according to a soundbite on his website) could be described as a modern post-modernist. Through his archives of work, dating back 6 years as a working artist, he draws clear influence from Duchamp and the Dada movement, which is evident before you even get to a collection called ‘readymades’. Wys claims that he can trace his fascination with art back to childhood, when “picture books devoted to 19th and 20th century painting were more valuable to me than any toy,” and it has fixated him ever since: after having graduated from Illinois State University with a masters in Visual Culture, he has gone on to exhibit and collaborate all over the world. That initial interest in late period paintings, alongside a later interest in conceptualism, has evolved from early inspiration to becoming the forefront of Wys’ defined style. He takes found objects, á la Robert Rauschenberg, and blotches them in thick, bright paint, much like John Baldessari. But whilst his work could be in reference to all manner of anti-artists, what Wys creates is not quite any of them. Rather he creates his own, original work with heavy influence from several decades’ worth of modern art movements, enabling him to broaden the dialogue between the art and the viewer. The sourced objects of his work range from all manner of decorative objects – statuettes, busts, crockery, swatches of embroidery – to oil paintings, thus the backdrop is a dense canvas of the work which initially sparked the artist’s interest in art. He defaces the pre-existing items in order to examine and critique the viewer’s perceptions of them as objects, or as art, “how each comes to be manipulated in culture and how each impacts our experiences therein.” Visually, Wys creates impactful, sometimes shocking, work which explores many questions, and ends up asking yet more in searching for the answers. But whatever initial reaction the work evokes, each piece is playful at heart; almost in spite of itself, of the deeper concepts and themes, Wys’ various series are inherently approachable. With a staunch rainbow of paints, and reoccurring ‘bars’, squares, and dots , some of which are reminiscent of Damien Hirst’s ‘Spot Paintings’, the essence of Wys’ work could well be viewed as Hirst described the creation of his aforementioned series: as “a way of pinning down the joy of colour”. The accessibility of his work has led to an impressive variety of collaborations, from UKbased fashion house Lulu & Co designing a clothing range for their AW14 collection, to the Bavarian State Opera using work from Wys’ series ‘Nocturne’ for their 2011-2012 programme, to name but a few. This March will see a brand new collection, ‘File Not Found’, on display in a solo exhibition much closer to home at the Joseph Gross Gallery in New York.

Fragile | Marker on found ceramic

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Bust of a Boy With Stripes | Paint on found ceramic

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An Alpine Landscape With Color Bars | Paint on found painting and frame

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Mother, Will I Now Disappear | Crystals and minerals on found ceramic

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A Pair of Faces (Diptych) | Spray paint on found print and frame

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A Grecian Bust With Color Tests | Paint on found sculpture

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Fisherfolk With A Paint Test | Paint on found print and frame

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stephen chambers "THE GANGS OF NEW YORK" & "TROUBLE MEETS TROUBLE" Article by MANDANA PAGÈS

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Born in England in 1960, Stephen Chambers studied at the Winchester School of Art, and went on to do his degree at Central Saint Martins, before finally completing his masters at Chelsea College of Art in 1983. Chambers was granted many awards, including a scholarship in Rome and various medals, including the Mark Rothko Memorial Trust Travelling Award. He has also collaborated with the Royal Ballet on three dance projects. Chambers is a member of the Royal Academy of Arts. In 2012, the Academy dedicated an entire exhibition to his work, which was then taken on by the Pera Museum, Istanbul, in 2014. Chambers’ work, in his own words, “speaks of states of mind, behaviours and sensibilities.” Critics have praised his extraordinary use of colour, and exploration of form and subject. He is fascinated by history, the history of art and, in particular, fables and mythology. It is from here that he draws inspiration, and leaves his imagination free to interpret in his own individual style. His most recent exhibition “The Gangs of New York” is on display at Galerie Frank Pagès, Geneva, until 28th March 2015. The eponymous series was inspired by the legendary gangs of New York, of mainly Irish origin, who wreaked havoc in the south of the city in the mid-19th century. Each painting is named after a famous gang: Bowery Boys, Eastman Gang, Forty Thieves, Daybreak Boys, Five Point Gang, The Whyos. The title of each work, along with the visual symbolism chosen by the artist, allows the viewer to create their own stories, and takes you on a trip through time. The work is incredibly colourful, and personal to the identity of each gang, evoking the subtler elements of New York. In another series, “Trouble Meets Trouble”, Chambers draws from religion and mythology to create imaginary links between Kali, the Hindu goddess of power and divine female creativity, and Loki, the Norse god. In Norse mythology, Loki, or Loke the Fool, is both friend and foe of the Gods, and his spirit is associated with fire, earthquakes and magic. He is also a shape-shifter. Chambers imagines the problems created by introducing these two great beings. In his work, Chambers creates collections which read like stories, or comic books. One of his larger pieces, “Painting of Four Stories”, consists of 12 individual panels, assembled together like a puzzle, which tell four stories interwoven on the same landscape, but each separate to the other. As with all his work, Chambers encourages speculation, urging the viewer to create their own stories.

Words by MANDANA PAGÈS | Image credit to Stephen Chambers | www.stephenchambers.com ©

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"The Gangs of New York "

TGONY | Bowery Boys

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"The Gangs of New York "

Forty Thieves | Dead Rabbits

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"The Gangs of New York "

Bust of a Boy With Stripes | Paint on found ceramic

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"The Gangs of New York "

The Five Points Gang

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"Trouble Meets Trouble"

Marie Antoinette | Angela Davis

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"Trouble Meets Trouble"

Michael Powell | Meriwether Lewis

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FRiEDERIkE REVEMAN "PLAYTIME" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Born in Germany in 1984, Friederike Reveman studied at the Academy of Visual Arts in Leipzig before undertaking a Masters degree at the New York Academy of Art. Her paintings, usually very large, consist of strange portraits, bizarre landscapes and twisted spaces born out of the discordance between sociocultural ideals of beauty and the artist's own imagination and memories. Friederike Reveman's work by no means leaves the audience indifferent; it could even be called disturbing. It is a very personal study into the complex mechanisms of mass media and pop culture, questioning the idealisation of perfection and beauty and the way in which, today, this inevitably leads to social problems. Friederike Reveman's paintings depict a fictitious race of female figures living in a dazzling yet uncertain world. They are feminine but, at the same time, childlike, very often naked and contorting themselves revealingly, or even violently. Their surroundings are generally overcrowded, and they often seem to be trapped within structures resembling theatre sets or play cages. This imaginary world, created entirely by the artist, allows her to analyse the disturbing way in which women and children see themselves and their surroundings in reality.

How would you describe your work? My work is based on my biography very often related to my childhood; protection and isolation, tranquility and trauma. But it's also reflects the chaos, that mass media images cause, for example the constant sexualisation of the female body. Since when are you an artist and when did you realize that you have this certain sensitivity? I always felt that expressing my self either when I danced ballet or played with dolls it was just hanging outside in the nature...there was always this need to create worlds. I actually started painting at very young age, I was 5 when I painted my first still live. What is your favorite artist? My favorite artists are Marlene Dumas, Robert gober, mike kelly, sigmar polke. But of course Kooning, James Ensor and Picasso. What do you feel through your practice? For me painting is another way of speaking or writing. I want to tell stories or create worlds that can only exist in this very moment. This moment is then captured. It an amazing and often relieving sensation. I hope I can touch people with my work. Or tell them sides of life they are maybe afraid of or that they are no able to verbalize. Art is always magic when it tells you something or asks questions that are maybe somewhere in you mind but not clearly expressed. What can we wish you for the future? Joy and health, many inspirations and ideas.

Words by MAFALDA KYAMBEL | Image credit to Frederike Reveman| www.friederikereveman.com ÂŠ

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Beauty queen | Right: Red Head

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Left: Bust | Candy Head

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GALLERY FRANK PAGèS "ART A FAMILY HISTORY" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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What makes art exceptional? “To have the desire to expose the best artists and to not be satisfied until we have exposed the best works of those artists”

Art is the word to the Pagès family, it all began in 1989 in Baden-Baden, Germany. Frank and Madana Pagès shared their passion for collecting art, and being surrounded by artists they decided to found the Frank Pagès Gallery. Their sons, Gregory and Cedrik, were consequently immersed in the art world since their childhoods. In 2008, the eldest son Gregory decided to create an ephemeral gallery in Crans-Montana, and following this success, the whole family decided to settle the 3rd gallery in Geneva’s Old Town, to the delight of all. Perfecting the organisation of an exhibition with an exceptional artist can take a long time. Achieving optimum success is all about will and determination. With their knowledge and passion for art and the artists they represent, the Pagès family has, over the years, become a reference point in the specialised field of contemporary art. However, contemporary art is multifaceted, and the gallery puts figurative art at the forefront of its concern, and offers free representation, the style of which is still evolving. Since opening their doors, the family has exhibited more than a hundred artists, some of whom are internationally renowned and recognised with works in major museums around the world. Gallery Frank Pagès’ selective choices exhibit a melting pot of talent working in the field of contemporary art, and in particular, of artists whose works stimulate emotional, aesthetic and sensory activity, which often begins with "a stroke of instinctive lightning". Notably with Pierre Soulages, an established painter who plunges the viewer into a captivating and figurative universe; with swathes of light and shadow, and the ethereal power of élan vital, which guides us to an imaginary universe where space is infinite. The Pagès family uses its knowledge and professional experience, as well as different expertise, to gather exceptional art. Their customers appreciate the true value of the high quality choice of original works, each authentic and signed by the artist. In fact, these are the criteria which establish the works as valuable, long-term investments. Gallery Frank Pagès attracts aesthetes, those who appreciate great works of art, who want to enhance themselves by surrounding themselves with timeless beauty. The essential requirement to buy a work of exceptional art is something which speaks to the heart: which is engaging from the very first glance, and conjures poetic and harmonious imagery. A real joy with no regard for rationality. With a new online site in the making, Gallery Frank Pagès is working hard to provide you with excellent service, within reaching (or clicking) distance to take you on an journey of discovery with unique creations from reputed artists, including Allen Jones, Gao Xingjian, Qu Leilei, Ren Rong, Domenico Battista, Stephen Chambers, Miguel Angel Pascaul, Josep Vallribera, w plus many others, from all different disciplines and backgrounds, which you will be able to find online at the click of a button.

Allen Jones | Josep Vallribera | Domenico Battista | Pierre Soulages | www.frankpages.com ©

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VINCENT CALMEL "TRAUMA"

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Vincent Calmel is a 41 year old self taught photographer. He lives and works in Geneva, Switzerland. In his early childhood he developed a dedicated passion for film and dreamt he would one day be a film director, or anything else to do with cinematography. In the midst of studying for a commercial degree, and with the intention of following the FEMIS’ curriculum in Paris, he signs up for a photography course. A couple of lessons on black and white processing and frame will have him hooked for life. He will not settle for less than being a professional photographer. In 1995 he is signed up as an intern for the Tribune de Genève, learning the ropes of a complex field in an even more complex environment: the daily press. Photography was then still coincided to be an essential element of daily news and Vincent was soon thrown into the deep end, from portraiture to reportage, in Switzerland and afar, his understanding of the profession grows fast and in just under two years he is offered a permanent position as in-house photographer for one of the most prestigious newspapers in Swiss Romandy. He will hold this position for ten years, wining on the Kosovo conflict exhibited at Visa pour l’Image in Perpignan, one of the world’s leading festivals on photojournalism whilst thriving in the newspaper’s very diverse photographic needs. In 2006, the ambition of having total control over his work and the wish to pursue personal projects will have him set up his own structure. He will continue working for the press alongside a growing portfolio of clients operating in different field such as advertising and fashion. His personal work found new grounds in which to flourish and has been validated by successful exhibitions.

Words by VINCENT CALMEL | Image credit to Vincent Calmel | www.vincentcalmel.ch ©

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On March 22nd 2010, Vincent Calmel was involved in a life threatening motorbike accident. Whilst his vital organs were stable, the extent of facial trauma was so severe the medical team had no option but to keep him sedated in an induced coma. When Vincent came round, he was told he was not in a life threatening condition but that the impact had dislocated his facial bone structure. The right side of Vincent’s skull was shattered causing massive disfigurement to his face. The surgeons were quick to react, understanding the levels of psychological and physical trauma Vincent would be suffering, they set up an incredible protocol, entirely guided by cutting-edge facial reconstruction computer-based technologies. It took seven surgeons, thirteen hours and a purposely-built titanium grid to recreate Vincent’s bone structure. The right side of his face was restored and the success of the operation has given Vincent hope he will one day recognize himself in this broken face and therefore, recover a possible identity. An unforeseen experience begins, thus to learn how to live with an unfamiliar face and the omnipresence of continuous pain. The fight is no longer physical but psychological. It is now a question of taming this new face, making it his once again.

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This new imposed reflection brings a new set of questions on what makes a face significantly real. If every face is unique, holding it’s own truth on what makes it so singular, can it be defined by a set of morphological rules and values? Was the computer programme guiding the surgeon’s every move capable of encapsulating the singularity of a face? Its reality? Thus became Trauma. When Vincent was discharged from the hospital, he requested to photograph fifteen of his closest female friends. They all agreed to be photographed in a particular setting with a ve ry clinical lighting standing in front of a specific pantone backdrop, referred to in photo retouching as one of the skin tone pantones. Using his computer’s retouching tools, the elements of each face are taken apart and rearranged on a blank canvas to create new identities. The eyes of one are now paired with the lips of another and the jawline of a third... Working alongside CGI artist Karim Nassar, Vincent creates new virtual faces, attempting to compose new undeniably real identities. These invented women fixing the lens, are exhibited on oversized photographic prints (6.5 x 5 feet) encompassing the spectator, enforcing the sense that nothing can now compromise the possibility of their existence.

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NICOLE FALONY LIEBER "PRESIOUS STORY" I would like to thank Nicole Fallony Lieber , I have never met anyone like you . I would never have thought that I'd have a friend who was 90-years-old, you are a true and wonderful friend . Your joie de vivre is a lesson in pure beauty. Thank you for giving me the motivation to put together such a beautiful magazine. I hope it gives you as much pleasure as it has given me.

Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Words by MAFALDA KYAMBEL | Image credit to Tribu Magazine ©

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My favourite virtue?

The person I would most like to be, other than myself?

Courage

No one else

My defining character trait?

The country in which I would most like to live?

A curious mind The quality I most value in men?

My two countries: Belgium, where I lived for a long time, and Switzerland, where I have now lived for over 50 years.

Class

My favourite colour?

The quality I most value in women?

Red

Intelligence

My favourite flower?

My greatest flaw?

Pink

Frankness

My favourite bird?

My best quality?

The robin

Frankness

My favourite prose authors?

What I appreciate most about my friends?

Victor Hugo, Alain Fournier, André Maurois, André Gide, Georges Simenon

Loyalty 8. My favourite occupation?

My favourite poets?

Reading

Jean de la Fontaine, Victor Hugo, Charles Baudelaire, Paul Géraldy

My greatest dream?

My fictional heroes?

Official recognition for the profession of chocolatier, acknowledging the great efforts made by the Chocolate Lovers' Club, of which I am Founder and Honorary President.

Tintin and anyone who played the Chevalier Blanc (White Knight)

The w orst thing that could happen to me?

Bécassine and Scarlett O'Hara

Running out of energy

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My fictional heroines?

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CUL -TURE

My favourite composers?

The talent I wish I was born with?

Mozart, Sibelius, Gershwin

Patience

My favourite painters?

How I would like to die?

Henri Matisse and Lucio Fontana

In my sleep

My real-life heroes?

My current state of mind?

Les Intrépides

Completeness

My real-life heroines?

The character flaw I indulge most?

Les Intrépides

Absent-mindedness

My heroes of the past?

My motto?

My maternal grandfather who was shot dead as a hostage and my uncles who were deported and subsequently died

“Forward together”

What I hate most? Vulgarity The historical figure I hate the most? Nero The things I most despise about the past? All forms of intolerance The military feat I most admire? When the Americans landed in Normandy The reform I most admire? When women gained the right to vote

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BOYHOOD "THE MAGIC OF TIME" Article by BÉRÉNICE MAGISTRETTI

Released on July 23rd 2014 Written and directed by Richard Linklater With Patricia Arquette, Ellar Coltrane, Lorelei Linklater, Ethan Hawke, Marco Perella, Jamie Howard and Andrew Villarreal Running time: 2 hours 45 minutes IFC Films

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Words by BÉRÉNICE MAGISTRETTI | Image credit to Boyhood ©

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CUL -TURE We’ve grown accustomed to big budget movies with lavish decors and bluffing special effects. They’re entertaining, that’s for sure, but they often lack authenticity. That’s why Richard Linklater’s movie ‘Boyhood’ is so refreshing. Filmed over a period of 12 consecutive years, the feature follows the life and adventures of Mason (Ellar Coltrane), who is 6 years old when the movie begins and 18 when it ends. Over the years, we see Mason growing alongside his older sister, Samantha (Lorelei Linklater, the director’s daughter), who we first see singing Britney Spears’ ‘Oops!... I Did It Again’. The audience has to keep in mind that the movie began shooting in 2002!

Mason’s mom, Olivia (played by Patricia Arquette, who won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress) is struggling between raising her children, paying the bills and finding the right man. The dad, Mason Sr. (Ethan Hawke), is more of an entertaining wildcard than an actual father-figure, but the audience grows fond of him as he truly loves his children. Unlike the majority of movie heroes who have solutions for everything, Linklater’s characters carry a rare complexity that is truly moving. We accompany them in their ups and downs, rooting for them along the way. And it is easier to identity ourselves with this bunch as they are simply human. In this movie, Linklater has managed to capture a theme that most moviemakers often avoid: the passage of time. Each year, the director gathered his four lead

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actors for a shoot that generally lasted two weeks, working on the script as they went along. The fact that the script was not set in stone allowed for improvisations, spontaneity and authenticity, constantly adapting to its evolving characters. The physical traits of the characters are pure as the actors naturally aged over the years. No need for complex make-up, prosthetics or digital effects. The time theme seems to be a favourite of Linklater. He had already worked with Ethan Hawke on the “Before” trilogy. The first chapter, “Before Sunrise”, came out in 1995. It tells the story of how Jesse (Hawke) and Céline (Julie Delpy) meet on a train in Europe and end up spending a night together in Vienna. The second chapter, “Before Sunset” (2004), has Jesse and Céline meet again 9 years later in Paris. Finally, in the third and final chapter, “Before Midnight” (2013), we find the two main characters again 9 years later on a summer vacation in Greece as a couple with twin girls. Filming the evolution of a character as the actor ages is a unique concept that brings a certain realism when compared to some of the more chimerical Hollywood plots.

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The visual aspect of the film is breath-taking. Some of the shots depict beautiful landscapes that ooze a quiet tranquillity of time standing still. On the other hand, the abrupt scene changes reminds us that there aren’t always smooth transitions in life. But even though the scenes jump from one point in time to another, the editing team has done a tremendous job, as the rhythm is gracefully maintained throughout the movie. From birthdays and graduations to road trips and bowling, and all the moments in between, the film highlights the fact that every moment in life is key because every moment is now. This is emphasised in the last scene of the movie when Mason and Nicole, a girl he just met in college, exchange some meaningful words while their other two friends are tripping in the desert: Nicole: “You know how everyone’s always sa ying, ‘Seize the moment’? I don’t know, I’m kind of thinking that it’s the other way around. You know, like, the moment seizes us.” Mason: “Yeah. Yeah I know it’s constant, the moments it’s just, it’s like it’s always right now you know?” In fact, the title of the movie was initially meant to be “Always Now”, which is rather fitting. ‘The 12-Year Project’ was another option seeing as the movie was shot over 12 years. However, when ‘12 Years A Slave’ was released in 2013, Linklater changed his mind. In the end, he set his heart on ‘Boyhood’, which perfectly captures the idea of growing up while living in the moment. Even though the movie did not win the Oscar for Best Picture, it took home a Golden Globe for Best Dramatic Picture and a BAFTA for Best Film. But what Linklater should cherish the most is these precious moments spent with the crew over these 12 years. Because the magic that was created during this shoot transcends the screen and fills our hearts.

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ETHICAL fashion "A FASHIONABLE WAY OUT OF POVERTY" Article by BÉRÉNICE MAGISTRETTI

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The evolution of fashion is a compelling topic. If the 60s were defined by psychedelic colours and the 80s associated with metallic materialism, then where do we stand today? Since the beginning of the 2000s, part of the fashion industry has undergone a process of self-examination, primarily concerned about how their clothes and products are being made. A new phenomenon known as ethical fashion emerged, inciting brands to focus more on the sustainability of their label and the working conditions of their employees. In 2009, one man took the concept of ethical fashion to another level. By working with the International Trade Centre (ITC), a joint agency of the UN and the World Trade Organisation (WTO), Simone Cipriani launched the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI). Based in Geneva, Switzerland, this initiative connects artisans living in urban and rural poverty with successful fashion brands. Under their slogan “NOT CHARITY, JUST WORK”, the EFI aims to empower women through fairwaged work. This is not just another eco-fashion phenomenon, but rather a long-term initiative that has set up various projects across Africa and Haiti, reaching out to more than 7,000 artisans. “In everything it does, the Ethical Fashion Initiative develops local creativity, fosters predominantly female employment and empowerment, promotes gender equality to reduce extreme pover-

Words by BÉRÉNICE MAGISTRETTI | Image credit to Ethical Fashion| www.ethicalfashion.com ©

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ty and increase the export capacities of the regions in which it operates. It also satisfies the fashion world’s wish to be more fair” explains Mr Cipriani. So it’s a win-win for everyone. International fashion brands are beginning to line up to be a part of this initiative. Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Sass & Bide are but a few big names that are collaborating with EFI’s projects. The collective work is creating a productive web of learning as EFI states that 91% of workers trained for Stella McCartney's order were able to share their newly acquired knowledge with their colleagues. Beth from Nairobi, who beaded the Sass & Bide LOVE MORE bags, says that "Work boosts my moral. Working together makes me confident." So it’s not only about the ethical fashion aspect, it’s also about giving a sense of worth to the poorer people of the world. Because giving money to charity is one thing. But training African and Haitian women to develop working skills allows them to earn money on a regular basis by using these skills. Empowering women this way gradually aids developing countries to grow out of poverty. Indeed, a woman who earns money will spend

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it on her children’s health and education. Therefore her children will have access to an education and then in time start working as well. By becoming active members of society they are boosting the economy. So it’s a cycle that is beneficial to everyone. This underlines the greater work of the UN and the WTO. On the one hand, the EFI engages in proactive humanitarian aid by giving these women a way out of poverty. On the other hand, they are offering them a way to trade their artisanal work by connecting them with successful fashion brands. This type of work and trade is a welcome alternative to what has come to be known as “fast fashion” (i.e. sweatshops, mass production, etc.) After the collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh two years ago, companies have now begun to adopt a more ethical and sustainable approach towards their business. Brands like H&M use organic cotton for certain lines like ‘Conscious’ and ‘Conscious Exclusive’. And then there are the true eco-warriors like Stella McCartney who doesn’t use any fur or leather for her collections and who supplies her shops with renewable energy. Even giant luxury groups like Kering (formerly PPR) have revisited their entire philosophy to address ethical and environmental issues. And most of their brands, like Gucci and Balenciaga, have begun joining this effort by producing sustainable handbags. Therefore it comes to no surprise that the EFI encourages its workers to adopt a greener approach. They all use environmentally-friendly, often recyclable materials, and their operations are carbon neutral.

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In addition to connecting local artisans with international fashion brands, the EFI also works with upcoming designers in West Africa to promote local talent and increase the export capacities of the region. Launched in 2013, the African Designer programme operates out of Ghana, where the EFI has helped set up a garment production centre in which quality clothing and accessories can be produced by African artisans. The African designers selected by the EFI team are given the opportunity to showcase their talent worldwide at top fashion events, such as Altaroma, Altaromaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Room Service, Vogue Talents, Vogue Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Night Out with Biffi Boutique, Dutch Design Week, IED Moda Graduate show and a fashion Pop-up store in Accra. By doing so, they have the opportunity to expand their business through the support and exposure received at these events, therefore increasing their production capacities. Throughout the programme, the EFI team, composed of fashion industry experts including Simone Cip riani and Simonetta Gianfelici (iconic Italian model), provides mentoring, guidance and support to the selected designers.

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FASH -ION Talented, creative and hardworking African designers have joined the journey of responsible fashion with the EFI. A A K S, Anita Quansah London, Christie Brown, Lisa Folawiyo, MONAA, Sophie Zinga and Studio 189 are but a few names that are growing thanks to the initiative’s networking. Suzy Menkes, Vogue’s International Editor, covered Beat of Africa, the EFI’s collaborative event with Altaroma, and has personally invited Simone Cipriani to attend the International Herald Tribune’s ‘Promise of Africa’ conference. Therefore by bridging the developing world with the developed world through the magic of fashion, the EFI takes humanitarian aid to another level. And it’s not stopping here. After Haiti and Africa, they are planning to expand their projects to Jordan, where they will be working with Palestine refugees. Some of the refugee women are talented embroiderers and can use those skills to make beautiful products. Could the initiative go as far as building peace?

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Malgosia Bela par Mario Sorrenti

Collection Silk

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MARIO TESTINO "STORY OF A PHOTOGRAPHER" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

Words by MAFALDA KYAMBEL | Image credit to Mario Testino | www.mariotestino.com ©

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Mario Testino is one of the world’s most influential photographers. Born in Lima, Peru, he moved to London in 1976 where he made his home and where he began his career. His vision has made him a much sought-after creative partner in the fashion and beauty industries today. His work has been featured across the globe in magazines from Vogue to Vanity Fair and he has contributed to the success of many leading fashion and beauty houses through advertising campaigns, from Bur- berry, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Michael Kors to Chanel and Lancôme. As a portrait photographer Mario Testino works with the actors, beauties and worldwide celebrities of the moment, as well as receiving royal commissions from HRH The Prince of Wales, TRH The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, HRH Prince Harry, Diana Princess of Wales, and Her Majesty Queen Rania al Abdullah of Jordan. Many exhibitions of his photography have been held in museums and galleries around the world throughout the course of his career. The Na- tional Portrait Gallery in London hosted his exhibition, Portraits, in 2002, which broke records for their highest attended exhibit. It then traveled to Milan, Amsterdam, Edinburgh, Tokyo, Mexico City and Lima. In 2010, Testino was invited by the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid to exhibit his work,

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one of the few living artists to have done so. In 2012 he exhibited his work for the first time in China – at the Today Art Museum Beijing and the Shanghai Art Museum – as well as having his first museum show in the USA at the prestigious Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Most recently, in 2013, he opened his first exhibition in South Korea at the Seoul Arts Center. In addition to his work in the world’s greatest magazines, Mario Testi- no has published twelve books, including MaRio de Janeiro Testino, Kate Moss by Mario Testino, Private View and In Your Face. Mario Testino has received many awards internationally among other recognitions for his achievements, including the Medalha Tiradentes from the state of Rio de Janeiro. Testino, who was born in Lima, Peru, was awarded his country’s highest honor in 2010, the Grand Cross Order of Merit, presented to him by the President of Peru. In July 2012 Testino established MATE, Asociación Mario Testino in Lima, Peru. MATE is a not-for-profit cultural organization that will promote and celebrate the arts of his native country and permanently host his own work.

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KAnye WEST crazy yeezy Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Words by MAFALDA KYAMBEL | Image credit to www.style.com ©

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Kanye West is probably the most polarizing personality in popular culture at the moment. That Grammys ceremony said it all: the strongest musical performances of the night undermined by the assholery that would deny another artist his well-deserved moment in the spotlight. West's collaboration with Adidas launched tonight in a similar storm of conflicted emotion. "I'm here to crack the pavement," his fierce voice- over announced. "I want to create something better for you." But a show that started this willfully late in a schedule as dense as New York's spoke to a certain insensitivity. Was it perfectionism?

Or was it simply the event-oriented consciousness of a musician who would scarcely stage a concert with the understanding that his audience has another performance to attend in an hour? That's an ongoing situation with West. Ardent fans will always find a reason to cut him slack. Ge- nius has its reasons. Still, transplant that genius into a context where its muscles are called on to flex in a more conventional way and different criteria come into play. When West sets himself up to be judged as a designer, he beco- mes a more familiar, more ordinary creature. It took 18 months to make this collection of sportswear hap-

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pen. He staged it with the Italian performance artist Vanessa Beecroft, whose ability to strip back everything to its purest form was something he related to. There were certainly enough flesh-toned body stockings to convey the notion of the pared-back-to-nothingness that is a Beecroft trademark. And for the show, 50 models of all shapes and sizes advanced in the serried military ranks that are another Beecroft signature in time to the sonorous electronic chords that are a staple of West's latest sound. That military aspect was key. West said the collection had come together in

the shadow of the London riots, but they were a good few years ago, so maybe it was more an echo of those events that sparked the dystopian subtext of his collection. In a curious way, it did connect with the pessimistic tone of the men's collections we just saw in Lon- donâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all of it, from the distressed knits to the backpacks to the conspi- cuous exhaustion of some of the models (do you think they were told to yawn?), suggesting a ragtag army on its rims. The mix of savagery and sweetness in West's recent musical output means it's tempting to assume there is some kind of internal conflict raging in him. That would certainly

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account for his provocative public persona. It was that suggestion of conflict that gave some spine to this collaboration with Adidas: a protective toughness, a body-conscious severity that made the clothes more than a simple accessory to the footwear that was the predictable focus of the whole event. Even so, it will be the Yeezy Boosts that snare the spotlight. Justin Bieber was backstage in a flash, laying claim to a pair.

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Cleo Ferin Mercury "NEO-NAUTICAL " Article by ALICE BRACE

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To some people, a scarf is simply a practical solution to keeping their necks warm. To Cléo Ferin Mercury it is a playground for her pens, pencils, and imagination. CFM takes the classic silk scarf, as immortalised by the likes of Grace Kelly in the fifties, and brings it by the hand to the 21st century: creating a new style of contemporary, instant classics. Inspired to by an inherent passion for silk scarves from her grandmother, she began designing and creating her own collections in her South London studio in 2010. Since then, her pop-y illustrations have taken adventures of their own to the circus and the jungle, on picnics and the beach. With each collection, of which there are two a year, the theme varies to reflect the spirit of the season. Though as with all high quality, conscientious designers, CFM scarves can be worn and loved time and again throughout the year, with the exception perhaps of her recent Christmas pudding print. Rather than taking her collections all the way to the cutting edge, with painfully modern, faddish designs, CFM’s scarves have the same elegance as the traditional themes they’re inspired by, whilst bringing them seamlessly into the present. Her design ethic of “playful modernisation” is most apparent with her renowned collection of ‘Long Animal Scarves’, which comment on that turn-of-the-century symbol of glamour: animal furs. Sticking true to her style, and spa-

ring the animals, this collection speaks for itself. The hand-finished animal-esque scarves can be draped much in the same manner as the originals would be, and given the light, versatile fabric, they can also be used in any number of applications. Another bonus to this PETA-friendly version of a period classic is that they can be printed in a huge variety of colours, and animals. The collection includes pink jaguars, white cats and CFM’s personal favourite, the blue tiger. For the SS15 collection, the theme is “Nautical”: a classic springtime look, but you won’t find any navy and white stripes here. As is her wont, CFM has approached from a different angle, thrown caution to the wind, and sat mermaids on clams singing to tropical fish, framed treasure chests full of pineapples and pearls in palm leaves, and taken traditional nautical imagery – ship’s wheels, sailor’s knots – and thrown in exotic flowers, Chinese fans, and guitars to create bright, brand new voyages. The hand-rolled, Italian silk scarves could easily be framed and hung on the wall, but with such playful colours, the temptation to add a splash to your outfit is too much. Cléo Ferin Mercury scarves and accessories can be purchased online, as well as at a large variety of stockists around the world – from the V&A museum in London to Galleries Lafayette in China.

Words by ALICE BRACE | Image credit to Christopher Joanssen ©

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Spring/Summer 2015

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CLé DE CARTIER "A NEW IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT " Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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"Intrinsic to cartier’s history as a creative watchmaker is a spirit of innovation. a pioneering ethos that has not just brought about numerous technical advances, but also engendered ground-breaking new forms: the square for santos, the rectangle for tank... the result is a line of emblematic timepieces that have not just created a new aesthetic, but also stood the test of time. creativity, passion and pure excellence are the keys to a success that has endured for more than a hundred years. the same qualities at the very heart of clé de cartier. "

Words by CARTIER | Image credit to Cartier ©

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A cartier timepiece is always a work in three dimensio ns, a quasi-architectural exercise. the maison has traditionally placed great emphasis on the volumetric qualities of its designs, creating models characterized by strong lines and distinctive forms. clĂŠ de cartier is no exception. in one graceful swoop, it introduces a new element into the maisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watchmaking vocabulary: the tightly-drawn curve. in profile, it is arched, streamlined and sleek, organic and ergonomic. its sensual shape fits snugly to the wrist, providing ease and congeniality to the wearer. in true cartier style, it feels as good as it looks. perfectly poised to one side, the element that gives the new model its name: its jewel-like, key-like crown.

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For the conception of clĂŠ de cartier, the challenge was clear: to create a new form based on a perfect circle. a task that may at first appear effortless. but, what seems straightforward is often deceptively so. the result is a feat of subtlety and restraint. shapes are pared down and reduced to their essence. everything is a question of precision, balance and proportion. great mastery was employed to create a seamless flow, an elegant economy and a harmonious whole. sharp edges were eliminated. the bezel is gently rounded, the horns smoothly tapered. each component unites to conjure up an intangible perfection that is at once surprising, intuitive and universal. it is as it should be, as if it were always meant to exist.

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"Pure lines. timeless elegance. a novel form. a universal appeal. innovation. creativity. artistic mastery. an architectural approach. a pared-down aesthetic. precision. a contemporary spirit. subtle details. apparent simplicity. ultimate sophistication. a new gesture."

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"Iconic Timepieces"

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"Simple is an Art"

Cartier has a rich history of creating innovative crowns and clé de cartier firmly upholds that heritage. this time, it is not only one of the watch’s most distinctive features, but also the inspiration for its name. ‘clé’ in french means key, and the crown’s resemblance to one is unmistakable. the act of resetting the time and date introduces a new gesture to the world of watchmaking —one that recalls the traditional turning of a key to wind up a clock. its sizeable dimensions make the crown remarkably easy to handle. but, functionality is not its sole asset. it is also an exquisite object in its ownright. elongated and pure, it is adorned with a sapphire that is not set in a classical manner. instead, it is ingeniously inserted to remain flush with the metal surrounding it. Combining cutting-edge technology and in-depth expertise, the new movement was developed, fabricated and assembled by the craftsmen of the cartier ma-

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"A simple step"

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nufacture in switzerland. its name— 1847 mc—was not chosen by chance. the numerals indicate the year of the maison’s creation. with a 25.6 diameter, it was imagined according to the same design principles as the case itself: a pared-down approach and a focus on efficiency. the incorporation of a particularly rapid barrel provides it with tremendous chronometric stability. its automatic mechanism with a dual-direction winding mechanism is endowed with great robustness and durability thanks to a specially conceived lever system. decorated with “vagues de genève”, it boasts a semi-instantaneous date indicator and a 42-hour power reserve too. There is a certain audacity to the clé de cartier collection for men. a look that exudes serene strength and selfassuredness. a design that reaches out to those who have grasped that the essence of life is to be found in equilibrium, clarity and restraint. those who embody a quiet confidence and a tranquil force. a man who has nothing to prove. who simply appreciates beauty for its intrinsic value. A fine balance between strength and grace. that is the subtle equation fully embodied by the women’s collection. the case’s pared-down lines lend a sober sophistication, while the fluid rounded forms add a distinctly tactile, sensuous note accentuated by diamonds set flush to the case, making them silkily smooth to the touch.

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"Simple Elegance"

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"Simple Harmony"

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PRECIOUS TIME ART DIRECTION AND STYLING: MAFALDA KYAMBEL PHOTOGRAPHY: VINCENT EDMOND LOUIS MAKE-UP: NOELIA DE JESUS HAIR: ASOYI LUVAMBU, BY PIKD'ASO MODELS: NICOLE FELONY LIEBER, GABRIELE & PIERRE-ALAIN GRAS, FRANK & MANDANA PAGES, DANIEL & MARIA PENSEYRES VIDEO PROJECT MANAGER: INDIA BELCE-KENNEDY ASSISTANT: TISA SENCUR

Right: De Grisogono Necklace | Image credit to Vincent Edmond Louis & TRIBU Magazine ©

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Men watch: Iwc, Hublot | Woman watch: Hublot, jewelry: Bucherer

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Precious Time Gabriele & Pierre-Alain Gras

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left: Ruby & Diam Nuage Necklace | Image credit to Graff ©

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Precious Time Frank & Mandana Pages

Men watch:Tag Heuer, Audemard Piguet | Woman jewelry: Bucherer

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Precious Time Daniel & Maria Penseyres

Men watch: Hublot | Woman jewelry, Shefield, Bucherer

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the interviews by baroness de Rothschild "JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER " "ERIC VALDIEU " The Interviews by BARONESS NADINE DE ROTHSCHILD & MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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My favourite virtue I'm still looking

The worst thing that could happen to me I'm keeping that one to myself

My main character traits Insolence

Who I'd like to be, other than myself No response

The quality I most value in men Generosity

The country in which I'd like to live I'm happy where I am now

The quality I most value in women Humour

My favourite colour Sky blue

My greatest flaw Lying

My favourite flower All of them, except marigolds

My best quality Lying

My favourite bird The nightingale

What I appreciate most about my friends Straightness

My favourite prose authors Madame de la Fayette

My favourite occupation Tapestry and painting

My favourite poets Omar Khayyam, FranĂ§ois Villon, PrĂŠvert

My greatest wish It's a secret

My fictional heroes Zorro, Pinocchio

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My favourite fictional heroes Zola's Nana, the Princess of Cleves

The military action I most admire None

My favourite composers Mozart, Vivaldi, Aznavour

The reform I most admire The vote for women

My favourite painters Renoir, Rubens, Francis Bacon

The talent I wish I was born with Seeing the future

My real-life heroes Bertrand Piccard, Saint-Exupéry

How I would like to die Without knowing

My real-life heroines Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus

My current state of mind Serene

My favourite historical figures General Dufour

The character flaw I most indulge Eating

What I hate most Racism and diets

My motto Lift

The historical figures I hate the most Hitler and Stalin The things I most despise about the past The Wars of Religion

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ARMCHAIR INTERVIEW OF JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER BY NADINE DE ROTHSCHILD

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER HEAD OF WATCHMAKING AT LVMH & CEO OF TAG HEUER

What makes your heart race? Love; it's the only thing I'm sure of. Love is my religion, but there aren't many followers. Your greatest quality? My honesty The music that gets your heart beating? All You Need Is Love â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Beatles The words that boost your optimism? Love The scent that makes you glad to be alive? The smell of fields and pastures. Happiness is in the field.

Your lucky charm? The hand of Fatima The last time something made your heart skip a beat? Birdsong in springtime, as beautiful as an opera. The words that have marked your life? Love, order, truth. Love as a principle Order as a means Truth to aid morality The most important date in your life? The birth of my first son

The book that most marked your life? La Fontaine's fables

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ARMCHAIR INTERVIEW OF ERIC VALDIEU BY NADINE DE ROTHSCHILD

ERIC VALDIEU CEO OF VALDIEU FINE ARTS

What makes your heart race? Ruby

Your lucky charm? My wife, optimistic and always happy

Your greatest quality? I love women; they're wonderful

The last time something made your heart skip a beat? A slate-grey 1962 Porsche with red leather interior, which is unfortunately still just a dream.

The music that gets your heart beating? Any hit of the chanson franรงaise genre , nostalgie radio The words that boost your optimism? Love your neighbor as yourself The scent that makes you glad to be alive? The scent of freshly cut green grass because it makes me think of summertime, sun , space , freedom and simply to nature The book that most marked your life? The book of sea

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Your first crush? The 78-carat Archiduc diamond It was the first big sale of my career How is you heart? Medically: very good Emotionally: as young as before

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fabergé jewellery "SECRET GARDEN " Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Fabergé, the artist jeweller, launches its Secret Garden High Jewellery collection, an ode to the natural world. These floral jewels are evocative of Russian artist Marc Chagall’s depiction of flowers and effusive bouquets, expressing vivacity and life through an artistic and organic approach. Just like the iconic Fabergé egg, flowers symbolise renewal and rebirth as well as the first sign of spring. Flowers represent a major recurring theme in Peter Carl Fabergé's work and his flower studies in rock crystal vases are amongst his most celebrated and memorable creations. Fabergé's craftsmen worked directly from nature, so that each flower looked alive, immaculately observed, expressing a frozen moment in time and the ephemeral, fleeting beauty of nature made eternal. The Fabergé Secret Garden collection captures the colourful explosion of blossoming flowers. A captivating jewelled composition, it comprises an unusual mix of materials including carved hardstone, enamel and gold, where the focus is the extraordinary harmony of shades created by exceptional gemstones with character. These include precious gems such as vivid emeralds, padparadscha sapphires, and raspberry rubies, surrounded by vibrant pink spinels, mint tourmalines, tanzanites, moonstones and opals. Statement asymmetrical earrings and cocktail rings display magnificent blossoms of coloured gems, whilst two poetic egg pendants mix fauna and flora – one depicting a pastoral scene with wild meadow flowers and butterflies on a removable, rotating handpainted enamel egg ; the other one a reversible egg shape locket, hand-crafted in jade leaves to reveal a surprise chameleon. As Fabergé re-establishes itself as the leading artist jeweller, this collection signals a new era of powerful jewels which are transformable and, in typical Fabergé fashion, reveal exquisite surprises. The Fabergé Secret Garden collection of personal pieces of art is for the modern, confident and eternally feminine woman.

Words by Fabergé | Image credit to Fabergé ©

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pasquale bruni Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

Right: Fiori in Fiore collier | Fiori in Fiore earrings | words by Pasquale Bruni | Image credit to Pasquale Bruni ÂŠ

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Pasquale Bruni presents the new creation of the iconic collection Prato Fiorito, a unique set that seduce by the refinement of its craftsmanship and the gems of rare beauty. A creation capable of combining the excellence of Italian manufacturing with an unmistakable contemporary style. The fine jewellery by Pasquale Bruni is masterfully expressed in the exquisite Fiori in Fiore necklace. Pink sapphires magically blend into the luminosity of diamonds set in white gold. A pavé flower and a drop of multifaceted morganite are the heart of this exquisite necklace. Each tiny flower that makes it up is attached to its neighbour by gold wire. The result is like a magnificent piece of embroidery which allows glimpses of the skin and designs petals to dress up the décolleté. It is a piece of jewellery which depending on what it is worn with adapts to the feminine mood desired. The collier is composed of 3421 diamonds for a total of 31,51carats, one 4,46 carats morganite and 258 pink sapphires for a total of 10,54 carats. The set is completed by chandelier earrings in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires.

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Bon Ton grey Agate and pink quartz bracelet | Bon Ton grey Agate and pink quartz bracelet| Image credit to Pasquale BruniÂŠ

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Bon Ton Calchedony ring | Image credit to Pasquale Bruni ÂŠ

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Bon Ton Calchedony necklace | Image credit to Pasquale Bruni ÂŠ

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Bon Ton Calchedony necklace | Image credit to Pasquale Bruni ÂŠ

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hublot "BIG BANG 10 YEARS ANNIVERSARY " Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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inside the earth. While they never normally appear together, the BIG BANG combines these materials in a striking contrast which appears to bring together past and future. The BIG BANG is based on the element of surprise at encountering materials that are not normally found together: carbon and gold, ceramic and steel, denim and diamonds, etc. To illustrate these surprising combinations of materials, it was essential to create a case that was different to traditional three-part models and which comprised more components. With its 70 components, the BIG BANG embodies the concept of luxury, distinguishing itself through a vast range of subtle refinements. To celebrate the anniversary, Hublot has unveiled a series of sixteen "Manufacture" photographs, each representing a key stage in the design of a Big Bang watch: the Origin with Jean-Claude Biver, Ricardo Guadalupe and the Design team, Casting with the preparation of Magic Gold, the Research & Development department, the Complications department, bar turning, hand fitting, etc. Fred Merz, an independent Swiss photographer based in Geneva and renowned for his portrait artistry (he also created the Hublot Loves Football portraits in 2014), focused on each of these to create impressive artistic pieces that open the door to the world of Hublot.

Big Bang 10 Years Gold | Words by Hublot | Image credit to Hublot

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"Big Bang Broderie "

Irresistible fine embroidery – the most feminine of materials – worn directly against the skin it is synonymous with intimacy... Romantic and sexy, embroidery is the stuff of fantasies. As delicate as it is frivolous, it embodies a savoir-faire which masters the subtle art of discreet revelation. Hublot continues to revisit Arts and Crafts in its own distinctive way, here paying homage to the memory of our grandmothers' needlework with this fine St. Gallen embroidery – an ancestral art which is 100% Swiss Made – created by Bischoff, the leading Maison Suisse. Bischoff is the leader in this field. This prestigious firm supplies the biggest names in Haute Couture and luxury lingerie. The creative teams from both companies have come together to develop an exclusive pattern in order to create a fusion with the Big Bang's iconic design. It shows a rebellious spirit, with its skull pattern on a dial studded with 11 diamonds, and soft arabesques on the bezel and strap – a technical feat which took several months of Research & Development. After the embroidered elements produced in St. Gallen were delivered to Hublot in the canton of Vaud, part of the solution was found and developed in the Jura: in a process akin to the manufacture of hightech carbon fibre components, the elements embroidered on tulle are encased and moulded – like a stack of sheets – in carbon fibre to amplify the texture. The process is new and exclusive. The components are then assembled in the Hublot manufacture in Nyon, the ladies' timepiece being completed for connoisseurs with an HUB1110 automatic mechanical movement featuring 63 components and 21 jewels. 42-hour power reserve. The Big Bang Broderie, the ultrafeminine watch now featuring the most delicate details, is initially available in 3 versions: gold, silver or All Black, studded with black diamonds. A first in watchmaking and the start of a wonderful story by Hublot.

Big Bang Broderie | Image credit to Hublot ©

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"Big Bang 10 Years White diamonds"

Already 10 years. Only 10 years! 10 years have passed since Hublot unveiled its first Big Bang - the Big Bang Gold Ceramic. In spring 2005, Jean-Claude Biver, now President of Hublot and President of the Watch Division of LVMH, along with his team, led by Ricardo Guadalupe, the brand's CEO, created this new Hublot model - the starting point for a new collection. And how far they have come since 2005: the BIG BANG, now the brand's signature collection, has met with phenomenal success. A perfect illustration of the Fusion concept so dear to Hublot, the iconic design of the award winning BIG BANG, now a watchmaking icon, this year celebrates its 10th anniversary. Jean-Claude Biver - The Origin of the Big Bang Ricardo Guadalupe and his Design team Photo: Fred Merz. Photo: Fred Merz. "Nothing can be born without a good idea," states Jean-Claude Biver. His good idea came in 2005, when he came up with the name "BIG BANG". In fact, the term "BIG BANG" is based on an idea which is central to the art of fusion: the combining of objects and materials which never appear together under normal conditions, for example rubber and gold. The former is harvested from a tree, the latter mined from deep inside the earth. While they never normally appear together, the BIG BANG combines these materials in a striking contrast which appears to bring together past and future. The BIG BANG is based on the element of surprise at encountering materials that are not normally found together: carbon and gold, ceramic and steel, denim and diamonds, etc. To illustrate these surprising combinations of materials, it was essential to create a case that was different to traditional three-part models and which comprised more components. With its 70 components, the BIG BANG embodies the concept of luxury, distinguishing itself through a vast range of subtle refinements. To celebrate the anniversary, Hublot has unveiled a series of sixteen "Manufacture" photographs, each representing a key stage in the design of a Big Bang watch: the Origin with Jean-Claude Biver, Ricardo Guadalupe and the Design team, Casting with the preparation of Magic Gold, the Research & Development department, the Complications department, bar turning, hand fitting, etc. Fred Merz, an independent Swiss photographer based in Geneva and renowned for his portrait artistry (he also created the Hublot Loves Football portraits in 2014), focused on each of these to create impressive artistic pieces that open the door to the world of Hublot.

Big Bang 10 Years White diamonds | Image credit to Hublot ÂŠ

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van der bauwede "FINE JEWELLERY" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Alexis Van Der Bauwede (1873-1950) a native of Bruges, the “Venice of the North”, travelled the length and breadth of Flanders for his work as a clock and watchmaker. He handed down to his children and grandchildren his rigorous sense of discipline as well as his passion. Michel Van Der Bauwede (1906-1965) added to this watchmaking speciality his own fascination and aptitude for jewellery; while Pierre Van Der Bauwede (19332010), a gemmologist, state expert and member of the Antwerp Diamond Exchange, focused primarily on his fascination with precious stones and in 1991 created a new “VDB Diamond Cut”. Maxence Van Der Bauwede, a graduate gemmologist from the IGL in Antwerp as well as the GIA in Los Angeles, is perpetuating this tradition kept alive across four generations by uniting these three skills within the Van Der Bauwede Genève brand, which he has internationalised. The exclusive and avant-garde Van Der Bauwede watches are 100% made in Switzerland and created from noble materials, in harmony with the finest horological traditions. The brand has its own production workshops in Fleurier, in the Canton of Neuchâtel, cradle of Swiss watchmaking and of fine craftsmanship. Inspired by art, by the animal kingdom or by plant life such as the brand’s signature ivy leaf, each of the jewellery collections is distinguished by an exquisitely feminine, seductive and contemporary theme. Some models, entirely in harmony with the design of the watch collections, epitomise the stellar characteristics composing the quintessence of Van Der Bauwede Genève: glamour, aesthetic appeal, originality and a hint of mystery. A non-conformist style, gradually honed over time, has led the Van Der Bauwede Genève brand to shake up horological and jewellery traditions in keeping pace with fashion and trends. Tonneau-shaped, round, square or rectangular and driven by quartz, selfwinding or tourbillon movements, the watches crafted in the Van Der Bauwede Genève workshops embody a perfect blend of technical and aesthetic aspects. Through a constantly updated concept that has attracted a lot of attention in the luxury sector, the first Van Der Bauwede Genève franchised boutiques have been launched in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Baku, thus enabling the brand to reinforce its contemporary, neo-baroque style. Elegance and harmony mingle in lending a sophisticated touch conveyed through a subtle blend of spinel black, pearly white and dove grey. Cleverly enhanced by the use of noble materials such as marble, sculpted wood, satin and crystal, the Van Der Bauwede Genève boutiques are the architectural representation of dainty yet daring watch and jewellery creations. While focusing on its Flemish origins, Van Der Bauwede Genève has succeeded in highlighting its identity while inviting visitors to enjoy a serene, escapist interlude within an exclusive, delightfully hushed and refined setting.

Words by VBD | Image credit to VBD ©

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"Twilight"

Twilight collection | Image credit to VBD ÂŠ

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Twilight collection | Image credit to VBD ÂŠ

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"Legend T Crown"

Legend T Crown gents | Image credit to VBD ÂŠ

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"Legend Beverly"

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Legend Beverly ladies | Image credit to VBD ÂŠ

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graff " NUAGE COLLECTION " Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Ruby & Diam Nuage Necklace | Words by Graff | Image credit to Graff ©

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"Ruby & Diam Nuage"

Organic forms from the natural world are a powerful source of inspiration for Graff ’s Design Director Anne-Eva Geffroy, drawing on the sense of proportion and the wealth of beauty, colour and pattern. When travelling around the world, Anne- Eva will avidly visit outdoor spaces with the excitement of discovering beautiful blooms, geometric patterns within topiaries and the perfect symmetry within a delicate petal or butterfly wing. The Ginkaku-ji a Zen temple in Kyoto, the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech and Kew interjected by exuberant flowers bursting Gardens in London are such sources of with vibrancy and vividly reminiscent of wonderment for Anne-Eva and the genesis Anne-Eva’s hours whiled away in the of Graff ’s Nuage collection.

Ruby & Diam Nuage Earrings | Image credit to Graff ©

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Inspired by these magical corners of the world, the collection emulates the evolving silhouette of a cloud. The intriguing, ever-changing motif is represented by swirling pavé diamonds embracing a brilliant cutgemstone. The nuage formation is perhaps most vivid within a visually spectacular necklace (see above), showcasing the captivating pavé diamond motif resonating buoyance and the mesmerising lightness of clouds. This remarkable free-form design is interjected by exuberant flowers bursting with vibrancy and vividly reminiscent of Anne-Eva’s hours whiled away in the gardens of Claude Monet in France.

Ruby & Diam Nuage | Image credit to Graff ©

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Dior jewellery "Cher Dior" "Incroyables et Merveilleuses" "Archi Dior" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

Right: Rose Dior Bagatelle | Words by Dior | Image credit to Dior ÂŠ

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"Cher Dior"

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THE INSPIRATION Victoire de Castellane begins a new chapter in the story that began with Dear Dior. The Cher Dior collection pays tribute to Dior style by drawing on the colour, boldness, grace and femininity characteristic of Christian Dior's creations.

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"Incroyables et Merveilleuses"

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THE INSPIRATION The Incroyables et Merveilleuses collection draws inspiration from the grand costumed balls and sumptuous parties of the postwar period which Christian Dior loved to attend. These narrative pieces with exceptional settings and extraordinary central stones also pay tribute to the extravagance of the Incroyables, the 18th-century dandies and their eccentric style.

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"Archi Dior"

THE INSPIRATION The Archi Dior collection pays tribute to the early collections of Christian Dior, who defined himself as a couturier "who respects the laws and principles of architecture".

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Jacob & Co Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

"Safety Pin" "Clepsydra" "Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette"

"Billionaire"

Right: Safety Pin | Words by Jacob & Co | Image credit to Jacob & Co ÂŠ

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Named after the Greek words for “stealing water,” the Clepsydra collection draws its inspiration from ancient time-measurement de- vices. Regarded as the first form of timekeeping water clocks mea- sured the passage of time as water was “stolen” from one vessel to another through a regulated flow of water. The collection’s creations echo the iconic shape of the hourglass, where sand flows like water from top to bottom. This undulating shape dominates the collection’s iconography, with diamond-set curves swaying between 18K rose-gold chains. Al- though the diamond-set elements appear to move like sand, or a constant flow of water, their movement is in fact circumscribed. Variations on the Clepsydra motif include pieces in which plain rose gold curves are interspersed among the diamond-set elements to a greater or lesser degree, allowing the wearer to strike her own personal balance between gold’s warm glow and the diamond’s radiant gleam. With the Clepsydra collection, Jacob & Co. challenges the relationship between jewelry and time. Inspiration from the hour-glass shape is woven throughout the collection, evident in Clepsydra’s flexible cuff bracelet, dramatic ring, and striking earrings. The collection’s thoughtful repetition reflects the cyclical nature of time and the ways we measure it. After all, when the hour is up and the sand has finished falling, we simply turn the glass over again. With the undeniable permanence of its precious materials – gold never tarnishes, and diamonds are the hardest material on Earth – the Clepsydra collection takes a stand for our own immortality. Time slips endlessly away, but beauty, in its natural form, is everlasting.

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"Safety Pin"

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Aside from its sought-after power to enhance beauty, express individuality and display status, precious jewelry has historically served to protect its wearers. Precious stones, often regarded as talismans, were thought to cure disease, attract love and avert disaster. This new, inventive collection plays off the notion of protection, and reimagines the symbolism and superstitions associated with the common safety pin. With Jacob & Co.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safety pin collection, the everyday item, discretely worn in various cultures to keep evil at bay, undergoes a riveting transformation into an object of bejeweled elegance. A cuff bracelet, in 18K rose or white gold, pavĂŠ-set with white diamonds or vibrant blue or pink sapphires, adapts the traditional shape of the safety pin to wrap it sinuously around the wrist, protecting its wearer with scintillating vivacity. A new line of colored leather bracelets adopts a single or crossing pattern to secure a decorated diamond-set safety pin to the wrist. Charm bracelets in 18K white or rose gold complement the bejeweled sym- bolic pin with three gem-set pendants depicting love, good fortune and the universal symbol of peace. Earrings descend from the lobe toward a clasp embellished with a setting of stones. A new variation on this theme sees the safety pin itself piercing the ear, foregoing the need for an additional attachment. Golden safety-pin clasps, set with white diamonds, put a visceral spin on an old tradition. The result boldly captures the effect of a simple accessory, superbly contrasted with an 18K gold stem and sparkling gems. The Safety Pin collection expertly combines the simplicity of an everyday object with the beauty of finely crafted jewelry, bestowing good fortune upon its wearer in a lighthearted and playful form.

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"Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette"

The Astronomia Baguette marks a new height in the world of poetic watchmaking. The spectacular and ingenious timepiece captures the vastness and constant motion of the cosmos; conveying its fascinating immensity on to the wrists of horological connoisseurs. The transcendent exhibition animates a four-part demonstration of the Earth’s connection to the ever-expanding universe and time’s relationship to the dance of the solar system’s celestial bodies. Upon an icy astral backdrop composed of 342 invisibly set white baguette diamonds, the timepiece’s three-dimensional JCEM01 caliber executes a hypnotic choreography of multi-axial revolutions. As the highly innovative orbital display conducts its full cycle around the dial every 20 minutes, four individual sat- ellites complement the motion with their own spellbinding pre- sentations. Facing a titanium hand-painted Earth, the Astrono- mia Baguette’s Moon is composed of a magnificent Jacob Cut 288-facet spherical diamond that reflects every ray of incom- ing light in a multitude of directions, illuminating the night sky throughout its 60-second rotation around an independent axis. The Jacob Cut 288-facet diamond is a groundbreaking invention of Jacob & Co. and represents a historic premiere in the field of modern jewelry. The hand-wound caliber’s tourbillon achieves an astounding effect of weightlessness thanks to its total of three axes of rotation within the architecture. As it orbits the dial alongside the other three objects every twenty minutes, the gravitational complication accompanies its 60-second horizontal revolution with a five-minute rotation around its vertical axis. The resulting floating effect evokes the wonders of outer space above a sparkling starry sky. The fourth arm of the dynamic module boasts an ingenious hours and minutes display. Correcting for the rotation of the overall construction, this subdial boasts a differential gear system that ensures the constant position of its hour markers relative to the wearer. This tour de force not only maintains an excellent degree of legibility, but also gracefully contextualizes the orbits of the tourbillon, Moon and Earth. Leveraging an unconventional view of the limits of haute horology, Jacob & Co. creates a mesmerizing wrist-worn observatory, with every component working independently toward a splendidly achieved common objective. The exclusive JCEM01 caliber, armed with a Phillips-curve balance spring and motor barrel, pushes the boundaries of lightweight watchmaking with its construction in titanium, a precious metal of extraordinary luster and resistance to corrosion. Crafting components in such a high-strength material presents a number of challenges due to its imposing characteristic toughness: challenges to which the brand rose with impressive success. The JCEM01 caliber boasts a power reserve of 48 hours and oscillates at a frequency of 18,800vph. Housed in a 50mm case forged in 18K rose gold, the Astronomia Baguette floats freely as it explores the mysterious wonderment of the universe. As if transported above Earth,

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"Billionaire"

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Beneath the colossal World Record luxury of 260 carats of precious diamonds, The Billionaire showcases a degree of meticulous ingenuity synonymous with the tradition of the Jacob & Co. brand. Sumptuous radiance and artisanal genius complement and elevate one another through every sparkling ray of light and each beat of the caliber’s exposed components. The apparent weightlessness of the skeletonized mechanism brings an appealing air of minimalism to a design that scin- tillates on every millimeter of its bracelet and 18K white gold case. The sophisticated modernity of the JCAM09 hand-wound tourbillon caliber strikes a delightful contrast to the piece’s overall vintage design, which al- ludes to the jewelry craftsmanship practices of the 1920s. The skeletonized movement, which requires a remarkable amount of skill to construct due to the paring of elements to their most refined dimensions, boasts a number of superb finishes for an absolutely stunning effect. From its hand-finished angles to its drawn flanks, the sand-blasted mechanism, equipped with a 72-hour power reserve, endows the timepiece with a beauty of detail befitting its exquisite exterior. The Billionaire reignites the passion of the Roaring Twenties with a power of majestic proportions. Each perfectly matched emerald-cut diamond that composes The Bil- lionaire’s exterior is mounted upon a setting of 18K white gold beads, each meticulously shaped into an inverted pyramid. While the timepiece highlights the unparalleled gem-setting savoir-faire and finesse of Jacob & Co, the stones themselves are equally magnificent, with individual gems weighing up to a breathtaking three carats. Created as a unique piece, The Billionaire truly epitomizes the brand’s passion for breaking boundaries. At its center, beneath gun-blue skeleton hands, the movement’s skeletonized mechanical architecture is a fitting testa- ment to a story of unabashed luxury, each precise component beautifully showcased. No element hides behind the comfort of subtlety, opting instead to stand out proudly within a vivacious display. The seamless interaction between every stone, and between each delicately finished part of the caliber, underscores an astounding level of skill and visionary creativity, one that elevates Jacob & Co. to its standing as an unquestioned leader in the field of high-jewelry timepieces. As the tourbillon caliber brings dynamism to its bejeweled enclosure, or the ballet of light of 260 carats of diamonds illuminates its exquisitely revealed heartbeat, The Billionaire is a dazzling representation of the courageous and rebellious Jacob & Co. spirit.

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Franc Vila Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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FRANC VILA unveiled today one of its novelties for Baselworld 2015: the FVn No 3 Inaccessible Tourbillon Minute Repeater. As explained by Franc Vila, the creator of the swiss brand, he chose the name Inaccessible because there won’t be two identical watches in this collection. Every piece will have a unique dial or some details that will made them different. Aside of the inaugural piece of the collection which will be presented in Baselworld 2015 and is the first platinum watch ever made by FRANC VILA, Mr. Vila developed a completely different piece by creating a skeleton version of the movement. Presented in red gold, the timepiece shows its mechanical beauty through the front crystal without any obstruction apart of the floating indexes for the hours. The deepness and three-dimensional effect is enriched and em- phasized with the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. In the words of Mr. Vila, “The minute repetition is one of my favorite complications because I find it to be the most poetic. I have always been passionate by the idea of mechanically con- verting time to music. In fact the first FRANC VILA watch was a perpetual watch with minute repeater. I’ve been working since the first moment to create a collection of minute repetition masterpieces and my aim since the beginning was to introduce a repeater with tourbillon, which is also one of my preferred complications.” One of the characteristics of the FVn No 3 Inac- cessible is the mechanism to activate the minute repetition. Instead of using a lever to start the repeater Franc Vila chose the rotation of the bezel, thus achieving a more balanced design from a aesthetics point of view. The FVn No 3 is also the first tourbillon with minute repeater water resistant to 100 meters ever made. The FVn No 3 Inaccessible pays homage to master watchmakers and Swiss savoir-faire while successfully achieving the goal of combining the most elevated classical complications with elegant and contemporary aesthetics.

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"FVn Nº 3 Tourbillon Inaccessible Minute Repeater"

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de GRISOGONO "THE BEAUTY OF AUDACITY" Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Amongst the most emblematic aesthetic constants that make de GRISOGONO creations so highly recognisable, the word INTERLACING has become a common denominator among the most iconic collections of the Geneva- based jeweller-watchmaker. From the finely crafted interlacing gold threads of MATASSA, the intertwined oval-shaped rings of CATENE, the movable intertwining ellipses of GYPSY, to the joyful spiral of interlaced gold rings of ALLEGRA, de GRISOGONO creations twirl and turn with grace and sensuality, creating an impression of a continuous flowing movement. An aesthetic constant shared by several key de GRISOGONO collections and which instils a sense of coherence and intriguing physical resemblance. The latest addition to this close-knit family is called VORTICE. Its design stirs strong associations of its kinship with others and looks like something familiar or previously seen. A closer look reveals that VOLUTA has everything going for it and boldly asserts its own unique personality. Rings and earrings wrap themselves around the skin, literally becoming one with the wearer. The delicate volutes, composed of a spiral or springshaped coil, create a dynamic and fascinating movement. The result is a delightfully rounded, voluminous design with an exceptionally light, ethereal feel, expressing a comfort and softly crafted execution that once again epitomises the style of the creative aesthete who dreamed it up. Presented in an all gem-set version, the ring and earrings are also available in a variation featuring an original asymmetrical half-setting.

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"Vortice"

Vortice | Image credit to De Grisogono ÂŠ

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HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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OVERVIEW With its remarkable views over the Lac Leman and the surrounding French Alps, the Hotel d’Angleterre is a five-star boutique hotel centrally located, at walking distance from Geneva’s prominent attractions. Summer or winter, you will find plenty of activities only a short drive away, including nearby ski resorts, Swiss vineyards, as well as a handful of photogenic villages well worth the visit. “No request is too large, no detail too small” These are the words at the very heart of the Hotel d’Angleterre, since its addition to the Red Carnation Collection, a South African family-owned luxury hotel chain, in 2001. Whilst the establishment has encountered numerous changes throughout its time, the exceptional hospitality from its staff members has continuously placed it as one of the highest ranked hotels in Geneva, and number one on Tripadvisor. Through its elegant mixture of traditional sophistication and its exclusive “British Chic” character, we invite you to make of this historic hotel your next home away from home. Please rest assured that your experience with us will be inimitable. Within our 45 rooms and suites, no two rooms are alike. Each owns its distinct personality in terms of style and decoration, with one clear common point: the personalized service all of our staff members vow to, tailored to your individual needs and wishes. Exquisite art and design is a reoccurring theme throughout the Hotel d’Angleterre, whether it be through the original works of art found in all the rooms and common areas or in the Windows Restaurants’ artistic and savoury cuisine. We strongly believe that if one restaurant should be on your bucket list, this is the one to choose. Come at 12:00 for a quick business lunch to savor our local and high quality products, or at dinner time to enjoy the spectacular views over the sunset and savor an idyllic gastronomic experience you won’t be likely to forget. Have some spare time in the Afternoon? Stop by the Observatory for our famous Afternoon Tea and you’ll be taken on a gourmet journey to Great Britain in a heartbeat. Finish off the night by relaxing at the most renowned bar in Geneva, the Leopard Bar, with an enticing cocktail in an intimate and vibrant atmosphere, accompanied by live music from Mondays to Saturdays.

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HISTORY Once upon a time, a bourgeois house â&#x20AC;Ś Completed in 1872, the Hotel dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Angleterre is the work of the famous architect Anthony Krafft and belongs to the historic sites of the city of Geneva. In its early days, it had 30 rooms, most of which had a spectacular view of Lake Geneva and the Mont Blanc. The hotel had at the time its main entrance on the Quai du Mont Blanc for easy access by horse, on foot, or by carriage. Today, this has become the entrance of the "Windows" restaurant. Up the few marble steps, two magnificent neo-classical columns supported the restaurant door. Inside, two bright and spacious terraces overlooking the lake, invited guests to a pleasant lunch or dinner over an undisturbed view. The popularity of the hotel was instant. The combination of its excellent location, discrete luxury and small size composed a unique and exclusive address in Geneva.

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In 1910, the hotel was extended. An additional wing was built and at the same time the main entrance was moved to the Rue de Monthoux. Over the years, the hotel had the opportunity to host a number of personalities seeking luxury and discretion. Amongst them, Princess Louise of Saxony, Johnny Weissmuller alias « Tarzan », Lord Baden Powell, Alistair McLean, and more recently, Céline Dion, Michael Jackson, Hubert de Givenchy and Michaïl Gorbatchev to name just a few. In 1995, the Hotel d’Angleterre closes its doors during twelve months and began the most ambitious renovation of its history. Only the listed facade, the internal staircase and the floors were preserved. This ambitious restoration work gives birth to a new concept which combines the refined and charming of the new with the mystery and magic of the old. This project, one of the most important in the local hotel history of this century, was supervised by the Archaeological Sites Commission of Geneva. Since October 1 st, 200, the family group Red Carnation Hotels added to its exclusive collection of Boutique Hotels, the Hotel d’Angleterre.

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WINDOWS RESTAURANT The Hotel d’Angleterre’s Windows Restaurant is one of the most enjoyable dining experiences in Geneva. With its "British Chic" décor and stunning views on the Mont Blanc and Lake Geneva, the setting is one of the best in the city. French Chef, Michael Coquelle, provides an authentic and varied cuisine using local and seasonal produce with his signature French touch. For a business lunch, try the restaurant’s themed Fast and Delicious menu, changing every two weeks, to be served within an hour’s time.

THE LEOPARD BAR Dance the night away or sink into rich leather chairs and discover a treasure trove of splendid artefacts, including tables which are, in fact, authentic vintage Louis Vuitton suitcases and numerous Leopard paintings, sculptures and luxurious prints. The cosy library feel is further enhanced by a lit fire in the cooler months. Perfectly blending chic traditional style with British elegance and colonial South African inspired furnishings, a lively ambience, superb food and beverage options, topped off with talented live entertainment, it’s no wonder The Leopard Bar is widely regarded as the place to be in Geneva. Our team looks forward to welcoming you soon!

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THE NEW CIGAR LOUNGE The exclusive Cigar Lounge has now been unveiled at the Hotel d’Angleterre – and it’s fast becoming popular with guests and local cigar aficionados alike. Exuding classic charm and polished refinement, The Cigar Lounge boasts floor and ceiling wooden panelling, incorporating a highly innovative air-flow extraction system to ensure guests can relax in total comfort. It is an intimate setting brimming with unique features including a stone fireplace, mirrored walls, luxurious armchairs and textured leather corner seating. Stylish furnishings and original artwork add to the rich ambience, and a worldclass cigar and beverage menu is sure to impress even the most discerning of guests.

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arnold & julen Article by MAFALDA KYAMBEL

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Another trendy bar in Geneva, but not just any! Arnold & Julen have found a compromise between traditional cocktail bar and an uninhibited hipster paradise. Hidden away behind a discreet faĂ§ade on the rue de la Place Grenus, located in the up-and-coming area of Place Genevoise, are two beautiful rooms, decorated with industrial design lamp previously belonging to the United Nations, grandiose designer chairs, and beautiful exposed stone wall, worked into by architect Anthony Julen. This new bar is reminiscent of those in New York, both classy and relaxed. On the menu are a selection of august mixtures, shaken every night by the expert hands of Sibi. For distinguished whiskeys you can count on Bastien. Here, the liquor doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just come from Japan, but the United States, Ireland, and Scotland. Bourbons, old and vintage whiskeys, rare labels; these experts have a few bottles behind the bar which could impress even the most discerning of connoisseurs. A total of over forty names to acquaint yourself with. To accompany your drinks, nothing but the finest traditional and contemporary tapas, French aperitifs, and creative appetisers... the convenient combination which can be found at more and more bars. Sharing plates are offered for between 5.- and 15chf - another good reason to try the food, made of originally-sourced ingredients, and to have a drink and dine without having to leave your table. It must be said that the young owners Bastien Arnold and Anthony Julen are in the right line of business: one a great epicurean and the other a design enthusiast, the result could only be a winning combination.

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fondation vuitton Article by ALICE BRACE

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A new creature has been found lurking in the Bois de Boulogne. Its doors opened to the public in late 2014, but Paris’ newest art space, the Fondation Louis Vuitton, looks as though it’s been hibernating in the woods for millennia. It appears at once intimidating and approachable, prehistoric and futuristic. It is undeniably impressive. On exiting the metro you find yourself on a large, uninspiring boulevard. You follow the signs towards the Bois de Boulogne, and as you walk the streets become lined with ivy-clad Haussman-style apartments, and crumbling beauties of epochal architecture hidden away behind hedgerows. Then, the surroundings become green and you crane up to the treetops to search for it: an imposing cathedral encased in twelve glass “sails”, each individually curved to the nearest millimetre to reflect light. Such a building sounds as though it could be seen from space, but here at ground level its existence remains a rumour. Continuing through the woods you pass the Jardin d’Acclimatation, a children’s amusement park opened in 1860, complete with child-sized roller coasters, bumper cars, and puppet theatre. After waiting for the miniature train to pass, and turning the corner to the Avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, you get the first glimpse of it. Built under tight constriction from local councils the Fondation reaches just two floors, but it hardly seems believable. The East face is underlined with a huge sloping water feature, which draws attention to the depth of the foundations. Looking down in the lower levels, visitors can be seen exploring the mirrored walkways, which dip in and out of exhibition rooms. At the entrance, which is located in the belly of the building, there hangs an enormous Louis Vuitton ‘broach’, crafted with crushed metal to reflect yet more light, and give it a diamante shine. The famous “LV” logo looms above the door as though appraising the queues, which can stretch on for hours. Once inside - the eye of Louis Vuitton firmly behind you - the atmosphere shifts. The foyer is a double-height space with gleaming white walls, which inhales natural light from the windowed façades on either side. Through the eleven galleries, this trend continues. The design takes full advantage of its limited stature, by fitting window space in every gallery, which draws in both light and the exterior structure. At almost every turn there are hints and reminders that you’re in a phenomenal body of architecture. There are glass nooks with room for just one or two people to stand in and be enveloped by one of the sails, the beams which support it, and the stunning views of the surrounding nature. A highlight of visiting to Fondation Louis Vuitton is the roof terraces, which give way to cinematic views of Paris: the metropolis of La Defence framed by suspended glass to the North, and atmospheric landscapes of a seemingly neverending forest to the South. The Fondation was conceived when Chairman of luxury goods brand LVMH, Bernard Arnault, visited the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao. When faced with the building he was allegedly only able to respond, “How can a person imagine this architecture?” Naturally, Arnault sought to meet the draughtsman behind it, and ended up having lunch in New York with architect Frank Gehry. Arnault described to him plans to develop a foundation to support the arts, creation, and education, and he described how he wanted the project to be “an iconic construction for the 21st century.” After the emotional impact of the Guggenheim, Arnault’s decision to hand over the design to Gehry came easily. According to the Fondation’s website, one of the key objectives of the project is to “move and surprise the public by exhibiting artists’ work in an innovative building, a model of emblematic architecture designed by Frank Gehry”. There could be no one else. Gehry is truly a giant among his contemporaries – and not just in terms of the scale of his projects. He founded his own architectural practice in Los Angeles in 1962, which went on to become the ‘Gehry Partnership’. Initial commissions were locally based, and were small-scale projects which allowed Gehry to experiment with his progressive designs. From which dawned the solidification of Gehry’s unique style, and an influx of commissions came seeking his pioneering touch. During the course of his career Gerhy has pencilled the plans for all manner of buildings, each gradually larger and more experimental as he grew more and more aware of Computer Aided Design. With the use of this technology he was able to digitally describe complete models of what was going on in his imagination. After the realisation of the Vitra Design Museum, Germany, Gehry was disappointed with the relationship between the curvature of the spiral staircase and the rear façade of the building. He approached the design in his usual way, with descriptive geometry, “but when the guy built it, there’s a kink in it. It didn’t work: the drawing didn’t represent what really happened in the site.” After the frustration borne of this miscommunication, Gehry began to look into better ways to describe his plans to enable him to play with curved shapes in precisely the way he wanted. This led him to the computer.

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By the ‘90s, Gehry had discovered CATIA – Computer Aided Three-Dimensional Interactive Application – which was at the time being used to design aircrafts. He applied his designs to the program and by the early millennium a branch of the Gehry Partnership, ‘Gehry Technologies’, began ‘Digital Project’: an investment to re-design the interface of the CATIA program used by aerospace manufacturers to better suit architectural needs. The resulting efforts have since been used for many of Gehry’s projects, including the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Plans were drawn up by 2006, and soon after opposition to the project began to gather. In an attempt to quash all proceedings on the build various associations battled on the grounds that the museum would interrupt the tranquillity of the historic park, among a cacophony of other complaints. Back-and-forth continued, until finally in 2007 the Assemblée Nationale passed a loophole law which heralded the Fondation as a “major work of art for the whole world”, and LVMH were granted a 55-year lease on the plot of 1-hectre. The project moved ahead, all involved fully aware that after the lease period the site would be handed back to the government. The Fondation Louis Vuitton was created with a

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legacy in mind. Collections in the building are curated with a view to promote and support artistic creation for a wide French and international audience. The devotion to contemporary art in particular aims to encourage visitors to engage with what’s going on in the world around them, develop their own thoughts and ideas on the matter. As the third phase of the Fondation’s inaugural programme, an exhibition featuring works by Mondrian, Rothko, Giacometti, Matisse and Munch will be held from 1st April until 6th July. The show, titled “Keys to a Passion”, explores select major works which changed and developed art throughout the 20th century, displaying the artists which continue to have influence and impact on art today. With each event at the Fondation, the dream is to remain relevant, exciting, and innovative. It is a young institution with a bold mission statement, still trying to justify its place both on Paris’ art scene and skyline. After 55 years, it may well be displaying work produced by children who visited in their youth and took away more than a souvenir pencil.

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Mobilier et luminaires contemporains Architecture d’intérieur Cuisines et salles de bain Boffi

20 rue des Eaux-Vives 1207 Genève T 022 700 13 60 www.arcadiameubles.ch

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YVAN PROKESCH "AN OBSESSION WITH DETAIL" Art Direction by Fabian Echeverria Article by CHLOÉ PETIT

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Let’s celebrate – the Swiss architect who epitomises New York style more than any other is back in Geneva. If you haven’t yet heard of him, you soon will. An outstanding designer, art scout and trend forecaster, Yvan Prokesch has all it takes to be the architect we can’t get enough of. A first degree in architecture in Geneva, a Master’s in Advanced Architectural Design in Columbia, ten years’ experience in New York as Main Designer and large-scale projects in the luxury residential sector – Yvan Prokesch’s career path reflects his character – brilliant and demanding. With a perfect blend of Swiss precision and American extravagance, Yvan Prokesch combines attention to detail with daring creativity. His style – glamorous, eclectic and minimalist – mixes the ultra-contemporary with the craftwork of yesteryear. Whether he’s transforming luxury apartments in Manhattan, designing interiors for villas in the Hamptons or refurbishing a private house in West Village, this fashionable young architect, with his obsession for detail and bold aesthetics, has won the hearts of New York’s elite. Yvan Prokesch is not content to be merely an architect and designer - in addition to his work in these areas, he also has an in-depth knowledge of th e art market. His address book lists the world’s best craftspeople and top designers. Ask him to find a rug embroidered with Swarovski crystals, a statue of a Bodhisattva or a photo of Candida Höfer, and it’s no sooner said than done. Yvan Prokesch is overflowing with insatiable curiosity; he can be found at all the international art fairs, from Basel to Milan and Paris. Early this year, however, the tables were turned when Yvan was invited to the Artgenève fair in Geneva. Collectors and specialists flocked for a private tour of his collection of contemporary art and vintage design. We have to thank Zurich architects Gigon & Guyer, designers of the Prime Tower, for his return to Switzerland. In 2012, they completed a prestigious residence in Chêne-Bougeries, on the outskirts of Geneva. Yvan Prokesch was asked to design the interiors of 40 apartments, including a sumptuous penthouse. He accepted, and rose to the challenge brilliantly. Backed by this first success, he co-designed a new architectural project with the architectural duo from Zurich and followed it with a sophisticated redesign of a triplex apartment in the Alps. After exporting his Swiss precision to the States, Yvan Prokesch is now bringing some American panache to Europe. He knows better than anyone how to combine minimalism with glamour, and is breathing a bold, innovative style into our architecture. Welcome to the multifaceted, flamboyant world of Yvan Prokesch.

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Images credit to Mark Schreyer & Yvan Prokesch ÂŠ

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In this Manhattan apartment, the real world is left behind; this is a dream world, entirely devoted to sumptuousness. Every room is a masterpiece, and consists of masterpieces – walls in pleated satin, Macassar ebony veneers, bronze lamps, a mother-of-pearl table, a dressing room with a carpet encrusted with Swarovski crystals – the finest materials have been worked with attention to detail worthy of high jewellery.

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With its contemporary style and references to Art Deco, this Manhattan apartment offers a subtle

balance between masculine and feminine. The master suite, with its enormous padded headboard and powder pink walls, is the epitome of glamour, while the living area is decorated in a calming shade of ivory. Each room is different from the next; one in dark tones, another in paler shades. The colours may vary, but the overriding impression is of pure unadulterated luxury.

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Images credit to Mark Schreyer & Yvan Prokesch ÂŠ

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Images credit to Yvan Prokesch & Fabian Echeverria ÂŠ

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In this chalet-style, modernist triplex apartment, the architect has created an ultra-contemporary atmos-

phere, but with a cosy feel. The decor is sophisticated, mixing designer items with rustic materials, traditional touches and eclectic ethnic items. As befits the geographical location, Yvan Prokesch has

selected natural materials â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mineral paints for their depth of colour and slightly undulating appearance, animal skins and, of course, elegant wood. A reinterpretation of the chalet, and the ultimate symbol of contemporary mountain style.

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Briefed to redesign the whole interior of this penthouse in Geneva, Yvan Prokesch chose a minimalist cubist style, emphasising an unusual layout. Each room leads into another, like a row of dominoes; each

is an invitation to discover the next. This is an architectural journey of discovery, from the living room to the reading room, from the owner’s private «His and Hers» bedrooms to the palatial bathroom, with its two dressing rooms decorated with silver leaf.

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The use of materials is a play on contrasts – shiny surfaces are set against matte textures to great effect.

In the kitchen, white is set against black-painted walls. In this luxurious penthouse, Yvan Prokesch contrasts ultra-contemporary design with a lively Pop Art theme. The best example of this is the master bathroom, where the princely decor has an unexpected twist – a picture of Marilyn Monroe by Andy Warhol - a successful modern take on the traditional concept of luxury.

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Uruguay Natural Article by ANASTASIA BELOEIL

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Uruguay, a small country between the two giants of Brazil and Argentina; little known, it is often confused with Paraguay, but one thing is sure: Uruguay is a unique, original and even comical place. In Montevideo, the country's capital, various epochs are superimposed upon each other, creating a bizarrely timeless atmosphere. Along the city's roads, the latest Range Rovers can be seen next to old Volkswagen Beetles and campers, neither is it uncommon to cross men on horseback. It's a similar story concerning the architecture, the old Art Deco constructions stand shoulder to shoulder with the Modernism of the 1960s and with the buildings of today. From this strange mix, compiled so discordantly, emanates an inevitable charm, best caught on an old film camera. This town at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata guarantees a nostalgic series of shots. Uruguay takes its time; it's a relaxed country that won't be hurried, and you mustn't crowd it. This is exactly why it's so popular. A “tranquilo”and “seguro”country that attracts foreigners in search of a little tranquility.

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"Uruguay Natural" is the country's slogan and not without reason: Uruguay is situated within the geographic area of the Argentine Pampas and has only 3.5 million inhabitants, half of whom live in the capital. The countryside is a stone's throw from the town. The rest of the country counts more horses, cows, palm trees and sand dunes than human-beings. The nature is rather wild, at times arid and at others tropical. Within the territory's interior, estancias (small farms) and their gauchos (herdsmen) dot the dense, green landscape. The flora is very varied: at the same location, you may find pines, plane trees, eucalyptus, palms and cacti. From this complex vegetation emanates a palette of vivid and very intense greens. Along the Uruguayan coast, a very popular destination in summer, you can spot fishing villages and the fishermen's modest lodgings. However, most of the beaches remain deserted wher a few carcasses of abandoned cars and some stray dogs are? the only visitors.

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All images credit to http://margaretinthewood.tumblr.com ÂŠ

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femme Article by ALYAA KAMEL

Illustrations credit to Alyaa Kamel ÂŠ

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A distant voice expires as another prepares to break free, move beyond this world, an idea, a vision. Mine is faltering but genuine; will I put it to good use? Beneath which standard will I sharpen my blade? Against what must I sharpen it? Against someone or something? Freedom is a battle for some and for others a legacy... Really? Is freedom ephemeral, to be fought for again and again, to eternity? A voice, some words mislaid on the page, others trapped deep in my throat; I shall be the woman to write, to put pen to paper. I am humanity by my being here and I would speak about this humanity because I am. My expertise? Qualifications or life experience? My status begins with the letter H for human; I learn and I grow by listening and by the passage of time that continuously quickens, by this world, at times small and at others lightyears across. Confined within my four walls, I suffer and yet no one tortures or assaults me; I suffer because I have within me a basic need, to understand why I am, what defines within me this humanity, and also a mysterious longing to live. I feel within me this uneasiness and this desire to assert myself, to exist, to blow on the embers that fuel my fear: that of death, of others, of pain, of love, of being alone. Like many, I sheltered for a long time, beneath the branches of my family, my country, my culture, allowing myself to be mistreated and forgetting my own existence. I am what others decided I should be, living according to the laws and rules of elders. Daily living is mundane, until suffering comes knocking at your door, and then one question and only one appears: why must I suffer this? Nature, she follows her course, but me, what am I following? Who am I following? How best to follow my nature? An individual, an object, a super hero, a victim or an executioner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I am a woman wherever I am, in whatever country, language, culture: I am a woman. So, do I have the right to express myself? Yes, and do I also have the right to speak for all other women? Perhaps, but above all I have the right to take up a fight, open a debate to understand, advance and express this suffering that for some is minimal but not insignificant and that for others is a right to live unashamedly, in the light of day, in plain view of the rest of the world. I am a woman living in a so-called civilised town; many women live in this same town and suffer a thousand wrongs. In others, other countries and on other continents, women are suffering mutely or explicitly, so should I ask myself, Who am I to talk? Another voice that will do no good? A willingness: to agitate, to touch the heart and souls so that we all learn to look at our world differently

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and so that we raise our voice, say, I exist; it is my right, my head, my aspirations, my incomprehension; in short, my freedom, my life; a life of dignity, awakening, and love in whatever form it may take. An approach, in this case mine, that can resonate in the heart, and provide momentum, is all that is needed! I am a woman, a child, a daughter, a future, an artist, a citizen, a human-being! A woman's human condition is to be able to express herself however she wishes and, above all, to defend her humanity and be protected, heard and guided if that is what it takes to have the right to live and to live with respect. From Asia to Africa to Europe, from America to the rest of the world, an afflicted or supplanted sound is still not expressing loudly enough, or even at all, this right – no, this instinct. Everything must be said over and over because freedom has a tendency to disappear as quickly as it came, and where it takes root it might quickly lose its lustre because of our tendency to trivialise it or to devalue it. What I am trying to say is, Woman, life is waiting for you; it is time to acknowledge the “I”.

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Confort, ingéniosité et qualité...

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