San Diego CityBeat • Aug 7, 2019

2 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

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UP FRONT | FROM THE EDITOR

Start small

O

ne does not simply challenge the Bill of Rights.”

So said an acquaintance of mine last Saturday night as we discussed the most recent terrorist attacks in El Paso, Texas.

This was before we even learned of the other attack that had occurred in Dayton (not Toledo), Ohio.

And he’s right.

One does not simply challenge the Bill of Rights. Even with the vast majority of Americans in support of some kind of gun control legislation (universal background checks and magazine limits are very popular even with gun owners), we often become so overwhelmed by the broader issue at hand.

We give up on thinking that the issue will ever be resolved. If you’re like me, a train-ofthought might go something like this: ISTOCKPHOTO

Even if the House passes some kind of federal legislation restricting any aspect of firearm sales, the Senate will reject it…

And even if the Senate passes it, the President will veto it…

And even if the President, in his oh-so-finite wisdom, chooses to sign the bill, the NRA will surely challenge it in court…

And when it’s challenged in court, it will likely make it’s way to the Supreme Court, where the conservative majority will strike down the law in a 5-4 decision and then we’ll be back to square one.

And yet, there is one rule of journalism that I’ve always lived by: Don’t assume. This is also a mantra that is useful in life in general. Simply put, let us not assume that simply because an issue seems so insurmountable and so overwhelming, that we should give up before we’ve even begun.

We have to try. We have to do better.

And as I’ve said in this space in one way, shape or form in the past: We should start small and work our way up. Small actions lead to bigger actions and bigger actions lead to big changes. History has proven this time and again.

It wasn’t so long ago, shortly after the ter-

rorist attack on the Chabad of Poway synagogue in Poway, that I sat down with Wendy Wheatcroft, a local advocate for Moms Demand Action for Gun Sense in America and founder of San Diegans for Gun Violence Prevention, now the biggest local gun violence prevention coalition. She’s now running for City Council in District 7. I asked her about how she thought she alone could make a difference on the city level especially given the broad nature of gun legislation and the risks that any local legislation would be struck down by federal courts. What does she say to people who are angry, but also dissuaded and overwhelmed?

“I also felt like that when I decided to dive in,” Wheatcroft told me. “Can I, as one person, do anything? Can I make any movement on this issue? And the answer is yes, because I have. I have founded San Diegans for Gun Violence Prevention, which has also inspired other cities to do the same… Most recently, we passed a budget bill at the state level, which was the first of its kind. It’s called the California Violence Intervention Program. It was formerly funded at $9 million a year, which really was only enough to fund cities like Stockton or Oakland, who are really having serious gun violence problems. And cities like San Diego were getting passed over. So we’ve lobbied for six months, and it recently passed at $30 million, which will be huge for the state of California, because this will help cities, including San Diego, to fund these groups that are working so hard in the community.”

“I’ve stepped down as the California chapter leader for my campaign,” Wheatcroft continued. “But I’m a city gun violence prevention leader, and I feel like that will transition seamlessly into my role as a councilmember, because I do plan to elevate gun violence prevention at the city council level. I think it’s been overlooked for a long time. We’ve seen the chips fall as Congress and senators have sought gun violence endorsements in the past two cycles. This is the first cycle where presidential candidates have actively been seeking gun violence prevention endorsements. And I feel like city councils are the next.”

Never assume that one person can’t make a difference even when the issue is so utterly awful and overwhelming. This goes for all of us.

—Seth Combs Write to seth.combs@sdcitybeat.com

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 3

UP FRONT | LETTERS

THIS “ADMINISTRATION” MUST GO

Re: “Never again is right now,” Backwards & In High Heels, July 17.

The disgusting and heinous acts that are being perpetrated on the most vulnerable among us by the current so-called “administration” are immoral, unethical and fly directly in the face of the Constitution’s guarantee of equal protection under the law (not to mention child abuse laws at both the state and federal level).

Unfortunately, the Legislative Branch of our government has once again demonstrated its cowardice and inability/unwillingness to grow a spine and hold the orange tyrant-in-chief accountable for his actions and his borderline authoritarian overreach by refusing to vote for his impeachment.

In the face of this, there is only one remedy, only one way to hold the Executive Branch of our government accountable, and that is for the American people to make their will and displeasure known! This can be accomplished in part by participating in protests such as the one described by the author of this piece. More importantly, though, all those out there who see this orange monster for what he is must exercise their franchise in 2020! Please remember to vote, and please remind all your friends and loved ones to do so as well! Democracy itself IS at stake, and it would seem that it is up to the American people to save it!

A.F. Kaplan via sdcitybeat.com

4 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

YAY FOR BIKE LANES

Hi Seth, thank you for the 30th street bike lane story [“Yes, I’m having a NIMBY moment,” From the Editor, July 31]. I don’t think most of San Diego is smart enough to see a good thing.

But now I see we think the same. I’ll be reading your stories!

Thanks,

Ryan Reed

City Heights

NAY FOR BIKE LANES

Seth, Bike lanes have been a complete total failure in San Diego. I’ve documented it from north to south and east to west San Diego city. They are very lightly used. Commuters don’t use them.

The biggest users are electric scooters riding a mile or less for fun. Scooters can ride in regular traffic lanes. None of the San Diego bike lanes are truly protected by a car proof obstacle like a curb or wall. They have ridiculous plastic pylons that vehicles drive thru [sic]. Mass transit is used by non drivers. Bike lanes are used by a tiny fraction of bike and scooter riders. In downtown cars drive in bike lanes. 30th Street in north park [sic] has been a major artery for many years. North park [sic] has ONE parking structure. Yes traffic congestion will get worse and bar goers will park on residential streets. Next will come resident parking stickers. Cyclists in Sd [sic] are loud but they don’t commute by bike in large numbers. Commute

means long weekday trips, not pleasure riding weekends.

James Wasser via Facebook

TABLE OF CONTENTS UP FRONT From the Editor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Letters to the Editor. . . . . . . . . . . . .4 News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 A Side-Eye of Sanity . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Sordid Tales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

WE WANT FEEDBACK

Did you read a story in San Diego CityBeat that made your blood boil, or caused you to laugh so hard you pulled a stomach muscle? If something inspires you to send us your two cents we welcome all letters that respond to news stories, opinion pieces or reviews that have run in these pages. We don’t accept unsolicited op-ed letters.

Email letters to editor Seth Combs at seth.combs@sdcitybeat.com, or mail to 3047 University Ave., Suite 202, San Diego, CA 92104. For letters to be considered for publication, you must include your first and last name and the part of town where you reside.

Note: All comments left on stories at sdcitybeat.com will also be considered for publication.

FOOD & DRINK World Fare. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Final Draught. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

THINGS TO DO The Short List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Calendar of Events. . . . . . . . . . . 10-11

ARTS & CULTURE Theater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Feature: The Food Issue. . . . . 13-22 Seen Local . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Film . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

MUSIC Feature: Orville Peck. . . . . . . . . . . 26 Notes From The Smoking Patio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 The Spotlight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 If I Were U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Concerts & Clubs. . . . . . . . . . . 32-34

IN THE BACK Astrologically Unsound. . . . . . . . 33 CannaBitch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

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ANDREA LOPEZ-VILLAFAÑA

UP FRONT | NEWS

Storage Wars, Episode 4: The Phantom Homeless New survey data suggests Storage Connect Center has not resulted in homelessness increase in District 8.

By Andrea Lopez-Villafaña

E

very month residents, property and business owners of District 8 meet to discuss the storage center for homeless citizens located in Logan Heights. The Homeless Storage Neighborhood Advisory Committee meetings allow community members a space to voice various concerns.

One topic repeatedly arises: The center is drawing more homeless citizens into the area.

Although there was a homeless population in the area prior to the center’s opening, some community members are adamant that it’s drawing more people. However, a recent survey found that 83 percent of the 210 people using the center slept in the surrounding area prior to enrolling in the program.

Despite the survey results, some in the community remain skeptical.

“We have more homeless in the neighborhood because of the storage,” Logan Heights property

@SDCITYBEAT

owner Connie Zuñiga said.

Zuñiga doesn’t believe the numbers from the survey are an accurate representation of what community members are seeing and questions the self-reported information.

She also makes reference to stories from residents who’ve noticed an increase in trash and human waste by their homes, as well as reports of more homeless citizens sleeping on the sidewalks.

The Storage Connect Center opened in June 2018 and is operated by the nonprofit Mental Health Systems (MHS). Members in the community have repeatedly opposed the center’s location because they feel the neighborhood is being unfairly burdened with homeless services.

Last month, staff with the San Diego Housing Commission (SDHC) presented the results of the survey at a Land Use and Housing Committee meeting. The survey was collected by MHS staff and conducted

between March 28 and June 20 with the participation of 210 clients.

According to information clients reported about where they slept the night before, 69.5 percent slept in Downtown, 15 percent answered “other” and 13.5 percent slept in Barrio Logan and greater Logan Heights. Two percent didn’t know or refused to answer.

The more telling numbers are that prior to enrolling at the storage center, 66 percent of respondents slept in downtown, 18 percent answered “other” and 14 percent in Barrio Logan and greater Logan Heights. Two percent refused to answer.

District 8 representative Councilmember Vivian Moreno said during the meeting that the data was important so the community can see exactly who the storage center is serving and the impact it’s having on the surrounding communities.

In the past, the councilmember has repeatedly sided with residents that the location of the facility is not suitable. Back in April, Moreno spoke with KPBS and said that she did not consider homeless citizens as her constituents because they do not reside in her district, adding that she did not know whose constituents they were.

Despite the client survey information, Moreno remains opposed to the location of the storage in District 8. In an email to CityBeat,

Storage Connect Center she said the city’s approach to concentrating all homeless serves within District 8 and the East Village “has been burdensome to these communities.”

“Our region needs to provide enough shelter and services for the homeless population and the County of San Diego, as the lead government agency responsible for health and human service program, must take a stronger approach to addressing and funding mental health programs.”

Councilmember Chris Ward, who also serves as the vice chair of the council committee, disagrees with Moreno, and said the survey puts “a myth to rest” that the storage centers attract homelessness into a community.

“Where the majority of the people are claiming that they spent last night within a 0.5 mile radius and nearly everybody claims to be within a one-mile radius, I think underscores that we are trying to serve a very local, neighborhood population here,” Ward said during the July 17 meeting.

Ward represents District 3, which includes Downtown where 69.5 percent of individuals reported to have most recently slept.

Lisa Jones, SDHC’s senior vice president of Homeless Housing Innovations, said that the data collected is an accurate representation of the situation.

“Two hundred and ten over two months is actually a pretty good data set, considering that it’s voluntary obviously,” Jones said.

Prior to the study, regular demographic information collected at entry were gender, age, health and race. The new survey results give center staff and the housing commission a greater understanding of client’s needs and homelessness history.

Additional data included information such as where the respondent first became homeless and whether they were actively looking for housing Jones said that the survey data appears to show that the center did not draw homeless citizens into District 8 the way that members of the community feared.

“We are not seeing significant or huge movement or changes in

patterns of behavior in regards to where people are sleeping at night,” Jones said.

Still, Zuñiga disagrees with the idea that their concerns are a myth.

“It›s the reality that the community has to live with every day.”

Others in the community, however, think it’s time to move past pointing fingers when it comes to the issue of homelessness.

Barrio Logan resident Tomás Perez said the numbers in the survey prove to him that homeless citizens in the area are “neighbors.”

He began attending the Homeless Storage Neighborhood Advisory Committee meetings this year and feels that it’s time to change the narrative that homeless citizens are not residents of the community.

“People at these meetings are saying, ‘these aren’t my neighbors’ and that translates into our city councilmember [saying] ‘homeless people aren’t my constituents,’” Perez said, referencing the comment made by Moreno back in April.

Perez and his partner, Karla Garcia, met with Moreno and explained to her why they disagreed with her comments and felt she was receptive to their opinions.

Perez said it’s time for members of the HSNAC meetings see homeless citizens as neighbors. It’s also going to take working with the community, city and people with lived experience to address the issue of homelessness, he said.

Garcia, who grew up homeless in Logan Heights, said she wishes her parents had had access to resources that are available now.

“It’s really important to not have to carry your whole life with you all the time,” Garcia said.

She hopes the client survey will help change the narrative and will allow the district to become a leader in how neighborhoods address homelessness in the City of San Diego.

“Every day there are homeless kids that play at Chicano Park, we know who they are,” Garcia said.

“I think it’s like putting blinders on intentionally to say, ‘I don’t want to see that, I don’t want it close to my church, I don’t want it close to my school,’ but that’s the reality. We all need to see it and do something about it.”

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 5

UP FRONT | VOICES

RHONDA “RO” MOORE

A SIDE-EYE OF

SANITY

Knowledge isn’t the enemy. Neither are big words

R

ecently, I saw a tweet demanding people stop “talking like academics” when speaking to “regular” people because it was an attempt at gatekeeping. After a slow blink, I read that back again. I resisted the urge to jump in with my two cents. I know, shocking. But contrary to popular belief, I often exercise restraint; as clearly evidenced by my lack of a criminal record. It did, however, prompt a convo with a friend who saw the same tweet.

Neither one of us could figure out when, exactly, using proper terminology, or simply compound words, equaled an ivory tower mentality. Then again, both of us grew up where life-lessons in respectability-politics were frequent. I’ve often said that it’s possible I’m not “woke” because I never had the option to play like I was asleep in the first place.

But since when did speaking as if you knew what you’re talking about become a bad thing? Have we, as a society, become so conditioned to equate being knowledgeable with elitism that properly using terms during a discussion is now considered condescending?

I was taught there was a time and place for everything. I learned to watch my mouth and to definitely think before I speak; to know what I am talking about before butting in to “grown folks” conversations. It was never acceptable to sound less capable or competent than I am. I would sometimes wake up with a vocabulary list taped to my forehead so I’d never forget these lessons.

In a world where I (and most other Black and Brown folks) have no choice but to perpetually step out on our right foot, competence in all things isn’t optional (and will never be). Until that tweet, and the copious co-signing comments, I didn’t think that mindset was just a Gen-Xer thing. Now, I’m not so sure.

In a country with so many doors still nailed shut, language is something that can’t be kept from me.

History taught me this wasn’t always true. I also recognize that if I give folks half-a-chance, they’ll try to deny me again. I could go on about how the refusal to establish a mandatory nationwide uniform K-12 curriculum is a deliberate supremacist mechanism to ensure mass economic disenfranchisement of the working class especially in non-white communities, but I digress.

Don’t get me wrong, I am heartily aware people use language and vocabulary as a silent eliminator, especially in the workforce. Folks will deny it to their graves, but speech patterns and word choice are still used to set class hierarchal goalposts. Code-switching by non-whites is very much rooted in mirroring white standards for “professionalism” particularly those standards associated with expressing one’s self. And Black folks are some of the quickest to judge. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched receptionists

and hiring managers scramble to mask their shock when I’m the one who shows up for a job interview.

I give good phone.

Growing up, my mom’s philosophy was to leave no room for error when dealing with white people with power. Her directives were simple: if the business language in the U.S. is English, then make English your bitch, and if there are specific concepts in a given field or industry then learn them and master them.

But this is about pandering to performative intelligence in lieu of informed intelligence; about the desire to be “plain spoken” over having actual competence. It’s about holding up your side of a conversation without relying on shallow phraseology to craft—and control—the narrative. It’s about being open to facts and using applicable nomenclature to share.

It’s about being unintimidated by declarative sentences or being unafraid to ask, “What does that mean?” It’s about the expectation of preparedness when we’re in a discussion of substance.

In my former career, one of my specialties was breaking down laws and regulations into understandable concepts. Keep it simple was a mantra. So, I get it when people want the same. The difference is that the person behind that tweet feels no responsibility to step up their conversational game, and that it’s my responsibility to keep it simple.

The rules to the knowledge acquisition are simple: 1.) If people don’t know what the fuck is going on, they should be quiet and listen.

2.) Ask questions and then look everything up; ignorance can be fixed.

3.) We should all avoid being wrong-footed by being prepared to hold up our side of a discussion.

I refuse to accept being labeled as “gatekeeping” just because I’m smart and sound like it. It’s too close to code accusing someone of “sounding” white. No one’s stopping people from admitting they need help.

It’s how we learn new things.

Using words to shut someone out and using terms relevant to a discussion aren’t even close to the same thing. We shouldn’t let people try to make them so.

I use two-dollar words and I use seventy-fivedollar words, alongside words that’ll leave you with a negative balance daily (much to my mom’s everlasting dismay). I don’t talk down to people. I’m speak at my level. I may forever adult poorly, but trust and believe that if someone comes for me, they best bring their A-game because mine would be unfuckwithable.

Because, sometimes, being “articulate” is exactly what’s needed.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched receptionists and hiring managers scramble to mask their shock when I’m the one who shows up for a job interview. I give good phone.

6 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

A Side-Eye of Sanity appears every other week.

Follow Ro Moore on Twitter at @BookBlerd.

@SDCITYBEAT

UP FRONT | OPINION

EDWIN DECKER

SORDID

TALES

Make supermarket express lanes great again

P

erhaps you’ve heard the controversy surrounding a Congresswoman who was berated at a Georgia supermarket. For those who haven’t, Georgia State Rep. Erica Thomas was at a Publix express checkout stand when another customer, Eric Sparkes, castigated her for allegedly doubling the posted “10 Items or Less” restriction.

Ms. Thomas, a Black woman, claims she only had 11 items and that Sparkes told her to “go back to where she came from.” Sparkes denies saying this. According to him, after seeing she was over the limit, he complained to a customer service clerk who explained that they do not enforce the 10 item maximum. And while I was not there, and do not know exactly what Sparkes said nor how many items Thomas actually had in that cart, there is one fact that is uncontested (and it’s a fact that truly gets my intestines in a twist): They do not enforce the 10 item maximum!

And it’s not only the Publix chain that won’t enforce. It’s pretty much all of them. I know because I worked in the industry for many years, for multiple companies and on both coasts. They all had the same policy and that is not to police the policy.

This just seems utterly nuts to me. I mean, a huge company like Vons goes through all the trouble of installing big, lit, company-wide signs that say “15 items or less,” but still allow some narcissistic nimrod to take advantage of the policy.

We’ve all seen them. They have more items heaping over the brim of their cart than an IKEA alley dumpster. Meanwhile, I’m standing behind Mr. or Mrs. Nimrod—with only the meat and cheese platter I’m bringing to a dinner party for which I am already late—with no other option but to stab myself in the eye with a salami log.

I’m old enough to remember when express lanes first started popping up. In the early days, the maximum was mostly enforced. Ah, that was a golden age of express checkout; the days when a stoner could run in, grab a bag of Doritos and a pint of Häagen-Dazs, and be home in time to catch Mork and Mindy. But somewhere along the line, the enforcement stopped and I got caught up in the transition.

It was when I was a bagger at a ShopRite in Monroe, New York, circa 1980. The express lane cashier had asked me to fetch a replacement for a customer’s leaky carton of milk. Upon returning, I noticed a woman getting in line with a cartload of groceries heaping over the brim.

“Excuse me ma’am,” I whispered discreetly. “You can’t have more than 15 items in the express lane.” After an unpleasant exchange, she marched over to the customer service desk and ranted to the store manager, Mr. Kamrowski, about my rude and unprofessional demeanor.

Of course, Kamrowski waved her through. Then he took me aside and said that under no circumstances

was I to ever do that again. And the reason should be obvious. There is so much competition in the grocery business, management is deathly afraid of alienating customers.

However, I would argue that for every shopper who doesn’t return because management had the gall to, um, enforce its own reasonable rule, 10 more will come in knowing the express lane is actually express.

According to Dan Meyer, chief academic officer at Desmos, it takes a cashier about 2.8 seconds to ring an individual item and 48 seconds to complete the transaction. As Adam Dachis of LifeHacker.com explains: “Let’s say you’re in an express line with five people ahead of you and everyone has 10 items each. In the standard line there are also five people but they all have 20 items each.”

With all things being equal, the express line is 28 seconds faster. Not much difference, especially considering all things are not equal. In the end, express lines, given their reputation for expedience, are usually longer. And more people also means more, say, credit card malfunctions. It also means an increase in “line stoppers.” Line stoppers are people who muck the machine— people like those doddering old coupon crones, sale-price doublecheckers, mind-changing-item-returners, old men molasses-movers, yappers, complainers, manager-requesters, headphone-wearers and the dreaded cell-phone-talkers.

And this, my friends, is why I am announcing my intention to run for President. It will be a singleissue campaign: to overhaul America’s supermarket express lane system. We’ll have red hats that say MEGA (Make Express lanes Great Again) and, once elected, it will be mandatory for employees to tell express interlopers to “fuck off to a different line.” My administration will implement policies such as cash or credit only, no coupons, no cash back and, best of all, no goddamned cell-phone-talking.

Customers will be required to place all items on the belt with the barcode facing up and group duplicate items together. There will be a learning curve of course, but it won’t take long before one-year bans will be implemented. To help people learn, we will exclaim things such as, “This is the express checkout nimrods! That means 15 items or fewer or fuck off to another line. Face barcodes upright and group items.

Put the goddamn phone away! Any attempt to use coupons will be met with a cold, dead stare. Oh, and if a milk carton is leaking, deal with it sissy! It’s not nuclear waste.”

See? Problem solved. OK sure, it’s a bit authoritative, but I’ve got a dinner party to get to, goddammit!

My administration will implement policies such as cash or credit only, no coupons, no cash back and, best of all, no goddamned cellphone-talking.

@SDCITYBEAT

Sordid Tales appears every other week.

Write to edwin@sdcitybeat.com.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 7

UP FRONT | FOOD & DRINK

BY MICHAEL A. GARDINER

THE WORLD

FARE Half baked

T

here’s something inherently charming about a place without pretension. A quick look inside of San Telmo Argentine Cafe (531 Broadway, Ste. B, santelmocafe.com) in the Gaslamp and words like “unassuming” come to mind. It is one part hole-in-the-wall and one part cafeteria.

There’s a lavatory sink on one side of the rear seating area and there’s an open door on the other side that leads to a dingy hall.

And yet there’s something about the place that inspires good will. Maybe it’s the food. At the core of what San Telmo does are the empanadas. While they come in both baked and fried form, the eatery excels at the baked version.

They’re well-crafted: slightly crisp on the outside, more chewy than flaky, and with warm and soft fillings that sing with simple, natural flavor combinations.

Take, for example, the baked spinach and cheese empanada. The filling is a classic combination that appears in cuisines on many continents. It’s hardly creative but that’s actually because it works so damned well. But what makes this particular version shine is the craftsmanship of the empanada itself, both in its form and how it’s cooked.

Of the baked empanadas, it was the beef version that was the most disappointing.

The empanada itself was dutifully crafted but—in what became something of a theme—the quality of the beef inside was a let down. A tasty chimichurri sauce went some distance to saving the experience.

The baked ham and cheese empanada, on the other hand, was every bit as good as the spinach and ricotta version with a similarly classic flavor combination.

Oddly, though, the fried empanadas were disappointing; well built, but overcooked and a bit dry.

The same criticism was even more applicable to the beef version. Stick to the baked versions.

8 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

San Telmo’s sandwiches are a nice treat as well.

The best was the bondiola: grilled lemon-brined pork on a baguette with bright-red pickled cabbage, fresh chimichurri and salsa criolla. The combination of the chimichurri with the salsa criolla is an Argentine classic, but particularly shines with the savory pork.

I wanted some of that salsa criolla on the choripan (think chorizo) sandwich, but this seemed a bit mono-dimensional. On the next trip, I ordered the choripan San Telmo, which included pickled eggplant. Different? Sure, but it provided the necessary counterpoint to the sausage.

Argentina is known for its beef. I doubt San Telmo Argentine Cafe will be. The Ribeye Steak sandwich was decent but nothing special. Perhaps that was because the meat itself was nothing special.

The San Telmo beef sandwich, on the other hand, seemed confused. Was it about the ribeye or the MICHAEL A. GARDINER

Bondiola portobello mushroom or the ciabatta bread or the arugula or the pesto aioli? It was confused and, as a result, so was I. It’s easy to identify what San Telmo is not about: swank surroundings and beef. It may be even easier to say what San Telmo is about: empanadas, particularly those baked ones. Based on classic flavor combinations and solid technique, San Telmo’s baked empanadas are, without a doubt, the best I’ve tasted in town.

The World Fare appears weekly.

Write to michaelg@sdcitybeat.com.

@SDCITYBEAT

UP FRONT | FOOD & DRINK

BY BETH DEMMON

FINAL DRAUGHT Untapped market

BETH DEMMON

C

laiming to find the “best” of anything when it comes to food and drink is always a dubious statement. This is especially true when it comes to staples like pizza. From thin vs. thick crust to plain vs. specialty, there are just too many variables for anyone to declare any one pizza to be the Pie That Rules Them All. That being said, I think there’s one surefire way to give any pizza a definite leg up: pairing it with beer. Black Market Brewing Company (4800 Art St., blackmarketbrew.com) opened in College Area earlier this year and is the second outpost of the Temecula-based brewpub.

The beertender on duty the day I visited informed me that the small brewhouse wasn’t yet operational, but estimated it would be up and running by the time this article comes out. That meant every one of the 18 beers they had on draft came from Temecula. But with 10 years of brewpub experience under Black Market’s belt, I figured it would be a decent indicator as to what to expect.

One early indicator of good judgment is the way the brewhouse is set up. Nothing is kegged, which means beer will flow directly from the tanks to the taps. This will ensure everything brewed in-house is served as fresh as possible and with minimized potential for infection.

Another promising sign was the pizza itself. I opted for The Ulbricht, an olive oil and garlic base pie with mozzarella, ricotta, spinach and marinated artichoke hearts. It was pretty great—a nice crispy (but not too crispy) crust with a beautiful herb medley and the perfect amount of toppings. I predict it’ll be a nice alternative to nearby Woodstock’s Pizza for anyone who prefers a thinner crust and an emphasis on beer.

Then there’s the beer. The tap list was encouraging, with a bevy of styles ranging from a Baltic porter to a saison (and, naturally, multiple iterations of IPAs). A beer portfolio with this amount of diversity should be encouraged, especially in an area of town that doesn’t yet have an oversaturation of craft beer options.

But even after I tried a half-dozen beers, there was something about each of them that left me

@SDCITYBEAT

Black Market Brewing Company wanting more. They were certainly drinkable—they just didn’t blow my socks off. The pilsner was fine, but unremarkable. The brown ale was a little too heavy on the roasty bitterness and could benefit from some hop aromatics to knock down the sharp nose a bit. The saison started nicely, but quickly developed a charred green pepper taste that made for a fairly unappetizing finish. The Aftermath session IPA, with Mosaic hops, was the best of the bunch despite its low head retention.

But everything about Black Market screams potential. Eastern San Diego lags when it comes to independent beer especially when compared to other areas of the city. This means there’s every reason to hope this particular pub finds its feet as the neighborhood and in-house brewing program develops.

Right now, however, neither the beer nor the pizza is the “best.” But with a little tweaking and time, they both could be damn good.

Write to bethd@sdcitybeat.com or check her out on Instagram at @thedelightedbite.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 9

EVENTS

SHORTlist

ART

the

THREE YOU HAVE TO SEE

COORDINATED BY

SETH COMBS

SAN DIEGO AND DEL MAR

TIME OF THE SEASON

Summer doesn’t technically end until Sept. 23, but the back-to-school ads have already begun. Many locals are already feeling those summer doldrums as the temperature rises and seasonal budgeting begins.

But there are still some fun, affordable and family-friendly summer festivals to check out before it’s back-to-reality time.

For those who want one more fix of visual art, music and craft beverages all in one place, there’s the annual ArtWalk @ Liberty Station (artwalksandiego.org) on Saturday, Aug. 10, and Sunday, Aug. 11. The 14th annual fest at Ingram Plaza (2751 Dewey Rd.) brings together artists from the U.S. and Mexico working in mediums as diverse as sculpture, painting and photography. There will also be performances from dozens of local musicians and dance companies, as well as local merchants selling their wares. Artwalk is free from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.

The annual CityFest (fabuloushillcrest.com) turns 36 this summer and is back on Sunday from noon to 11 p.m. Also known as “Pride-Light” or “Pride Part 2,” the free event is like a street fair and music festival rolled into one and features vendors, artists and musicians all along Robinson and Uni-

NORTH PARK

DOLLED UP

COURTESY OF ARTWALK @ LIBERTY STATION

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

HFinding Space at You Belong Here, 3619 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights. A group art show curated by Kara West and centered on the theme of online friendships and connections. Artists include Regan Russell, Celeste Byers, Fifi Martinez and more. Opening from 6 to 9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 9. Free. youbelongsd.com HBarrio Art Crawl at Barrio Logan Arts District, 1878 Main St., Barrio Logan. A self-guided tour featuring the open studios, galleries, and local businesses of the Barrio Logan Arts District. Spaces include Bread & Salt, Chicana Art Gallery, and over a dozen more. From 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. 619-366-9006, facebook.com/barrioartcrawl

ArtWalk @ Liberty Station versity Avenues. A variety of food and beverages will be available, as well as a cocktail bar and a Miller-Coors beer garden.

Finally, there’s the annual Philippine Cultural Arts Festival from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Now in its 34th year, the free event offers continuous cultural performances throughout the day, as well as local merchants and food offerings from local Filipino restaurants, including favorite dishes such as adobo, lumpia, pancit and halo-halo. It happens in Balboa Park at the corner of Park Blvd. and Presidents Way. More info at samahanphilippinedance.com.

SOUTH PARK

STORY TIME

We’ve long been fans of longtime local artist Angela Nguyen (most know her as bepydoll on Instagram), so it was shocking to learn that the illustrator and painter has never had a formal art show until now. The Art of Bepydoll is a new display of recent works opening at 6 p.m. on Saturday, Aug. 10 at Fall Brewing Company (4542 30th St.). The work on display includes recent portraits of jazz legends, as well as self-portraits and pieces inspired by vintage tattoo flashes. Essentially, as the artist puts it, “all things that make me feel… At the end of the day, I just want people who see my art to feel something.” Readers can see more of Nguyen’s work at instagram.com/bepydoll or at etsy.com/shop/bepy.

HOpen Show San Diego #13 at the Museum of Photographic Arts, 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park. Photographers and film-makers Rob Hammer, Alejandro Tamayo and more will present their work in 15-minute interactive talks. From 6 to 9 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. $10. mopa.org

We certainly love the altruistic work of Traveling Stories, a San Diego nonprofit dedicated to helping children from low-income households not only learn to read, but learn to love it. So the Traveling Stories Fundraiser is a great way to support the local cause and it’s an event that’s suitable for both kids and adults.

At 3 p.m. on Saturday, Aug. 10, local authors such as Kathy Krevat, Matt Coyle, Susan Meissner and Carl Vonderau will be reading from some of their favorite children’s books such as The Mysterious Tadpole, The Paper Bag Princess, The Lamb Slide and more. The event at The Book Catapult (3010-B Juniper St.) is technically free, but donations are very welcome. More info at thebookcatapult.com or travelingstories.org.

COURTESY OF THE BOOK CATAPULT

HThe Art of Bepydoll at Fall Brewing Company, 4542 30th St., North Park. New works from local artist Angela Nguyen (AKA bepydoll) that includes recent portraits of jazz legends, as well as self-portraits and pieces inspired by vintage tattoo flashes.

Opening from 6 to 9 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. instagram.com/bepydoll HArtWalk @ Liberty Station at Ingram Plaza, 2751 Dewey Road, Liberty Station.

The annual arts fest features artwork in all types of mediums alongside live music, interactive art areas, beer and wine and more. From 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10 and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday, Aug. 11. Free. artwalksandiego.org HArtists for Artists: A Benefit at Hill Street Country Club, 530 South Coast Hwy., Oceanside. This one day art sale benefits members of the San Diego arts community coping with cancer. Opening from 5 to 8 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. facebook.com/events/1033155187040505 HLadyfingers at Thumbprint Gallery, 920 Kline St., Ste. 104, La Jolla. A new showcase of the painted works of local artist Jessica Justus. Opening from 5 to 10 p.m.

Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. thumbprintgallerysd.com Art in the Village at State St. and Grand Ave., Carlsbad Village, Carlsbad. The 21st year of the local and regional open-air art show features the work of over 100 artists as well as art demos, live music, a Student Art Pavilion and a family art studio. From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Aug. 11. Free. carlsbad-village.com

BOOKS Matthew Kepnes at Warwick’s Bookstore, 7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla. The bestselling author of How to Travel the World on $50 will sign and discuss his new book, Ten Years a Nomad: A Traveler’s Journey Home. At 7:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8.

Free. 858-454-0347, warwicks.com HMelissa de la Cruz at Mysterious Galaxy Book Store, 5943 Balboa Ave., Ste. 100, Clairemont. The bestselling author will sign and discuss her new adult fiction novel, The Birthday Girl. At 7 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. Free. mystgalaxy.com HTraveling Stories Fundraiser at The Book Catapult, 3010-B Juniper St., South Park. Local authors Kathy Krevat, Matt Coyle, Susan Meissner and Carl Vonderau will read from their favorite children’s books as part of a book drive for literacy nonprofit Traveling Stories. From 3 to 5 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. thebookcatapult.com HHannah Shaw at at Warwick’s Bookstore, 7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla. The founder of the Orphan Kitten Club discusses and

“Light the Way” by Angela Nguyen 10 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

The Book Catapult

H = CityBeat picks

signs her new book, Tiny But Mighty: Kitten Lady’s Guide to Saving the Most Vulnerable Felines. At 7:30 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 13.

Free. 858-454-0347, warwicks.com Dr. Jenn’s Book Launch Soiree at Kettner Exchange, 2001 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy. Sociologist and sexologist Dr. Jenn Gunsaullus speaks about and signs copies of her new book, From Madness to Mindfulness: Reinventing Sex For Women. At 6 p.m.

Tuesday, Aug. 13. Free. drjennsden.com

FOOD & DRINK HGourmet Food Truck Festival at Del Mar Racetrack, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar. Taste some of SoCal’s most delicious food on wheels. More than 30 food trucks are expected, all in one location, with gourmet chefs serving their eclectic bests at affordable prices. From noon to 6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free with racetrack admission. 858-755-1141, burgersandbrews.com HVegan Taco Cook-Off at Fair@44, 4350 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights. Local taco vendors will sling their favorite dishes to battle for the title of San Diego’s Best Vegan Taco of 2019. From 4 to 8 p.m. Sunday, Aug. 11. $6-$37. veganinsandiego.com

MUSIC A Nancy Wilson Tribute at Embarcadero Marina Park South, 200 Marina Park Way, Downtown. A performance dedicated to the life and legacy of Nancy Wilson, the Grammy-winning pop-jazz singer. Featuring vocalists Melissa Morgan and Mary Stallings. At 7:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. $20-$71. sandiegosymphony.org HBuddy Guy at California Center for the Arts, 340 N. Escondido Blvd., Escondido.

The legendary blues artist and guitar great will perform alongside fellow bluesmen Jimmie Vaughan and Charlie Musselwhite.

At 7:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. $45-$125.

760-839-4138, artcenter.org HTulengua Documentary Screening at Art on 3rd, 269 Third Ave., Chula Vista.

Binational hip-hop group Tulengua will present a preview of a documentary about themselves and their music, along with a new music video and a live jam session.

From 8 to 11 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. $5. facebook.com/events/748020878970033 The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band at Embarcadero Marina Park South, 200 Marina Park Way, Downtown. The San Diego Symphony will play hits from the 52-year-old album that made rock music history, as part of the Bayside Summer Nights Concert series. At 7:30 p.m. Friday, Aug. 9 and Saturday, Aug. 10. $24-$98. sandiegosymphony.org HThe Mother Hips at Birch Aquarium, 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla. The breezy harmonies and psychedelic Americana sounds of the San Francisco-based rock band will play as part of the aquarium’s Green Flash Concert Series. From 5:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 14. $33-$38.

858-534-7336, aquarium.ucsd.edu

PERFORMANCE HEverything is Terrible! at The Casbah, 2501 Kettner Blvd., Middletown. The Chicago-based video and performance collective is known for their hilarious and bizarre videos that have been culled from abandoned and forgotten media. At 8:30 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 7. $15. casbahmusic.com

POETRY & SPOKEN WORD HPalabra at La Bodega Gallery, 2196 Logan Ave., Logan Heights. The evening of poetry will include readings from the trav-

EVENTS CONTINUED ON PAGE 11 @SDCITYBEAT

EVENTS EVENTS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 10 eling “Typewriter Troubadour” Jeremy M. Brownlow and hosted by Ted Washington.

From 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8.

Free. 619-255-7036, labodegagallery.com HInsta-Anthology #3 at Verbatim Books, 3793 30th St., North Park. Verbatim Poets Society hosts this open-mic event, which encourages participants to bring 40 copies of a page of their poetry to be compiled into an anthology at the end of the night. From 7 to 9 p.m. Monday, Aug. 12.

Free. verbatim-books.com

POLITICS AND COMMUNITY HNathan Fletcher at La Jolla Community Center, 6811 La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla. The San Diego county supervisor kicks off the Distinguished Speaker Series with his vision for tackling issues such as transportation, climate change, affordable housing.

From 5 to 7 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 13. Free.

858-459-0831, ljcommunitycenter.org

SPECIAL EVENTS

Food, Wine & Art Festival at Mt. Helix Park, 4901 Mt. Helix Drive, La Mesa. Take a trolley ride up the mountain to enjoy art displays, a live auction that benefits the park, and unlimited wine and food samples. From 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. $65-$225. mthelixpark.org HImperial Beach Surf Dog Competition at Imperial Beach Pier, 10 Evergreen Ave., Imperial Beach. Participating dogs will jump on their boards, paddle out and hang 20 under the pier with proceeds benefiting the San Diego Humane Society.

From 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10.

Free-$70. surfdogevents.com HCityFest at the corner of University Ave. and 5th Ave., Hillcrest. San Diego’s largest single-day street fair, with plenty of arts, crafts, food, beer, cocktails and shopping.

There will also be live music and DJs all day and into the night. From noon to 11 p.m. Sunday, Aug. 11. Free. 619-2993330, hillcrestcityfest.com

TALKS AND DISCUSSIONS

HLa Pulga Flea Market at 2292 National Ave., Barrio Logan. The market takes place during the monthly Barrio Art Crawl, and brings together vendors selling everything from craft soap to used books. From 4 to 9 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 10. Free. barriologan.wixsite.com/lapulgafleamarket

HArtist Get Together with Jonathon Glus at San Diego Art Institute, 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park. Mingle with artists, meet San Diego’s new Executive Director of the San Diego Commission for Arts & Culture and hear about his visions for the board. From 6 to 8 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 8. Free. sandiego-art.org

HPhilippine Cultural Arts Festival at the corner of Presidents Way and Park Blvd., Balboa Park. The festival will feature Filipino folk dance and music, along with an abundance of Filipino food stalls and retail vendors. From 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Saturday, Aug. 10 and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Sunday, Aug. 11. Free. 619-946-7409.

San Diego Beer History: A Live Panel at Latchkey Brewing, 1795 Hancock St., Middletown. Join the curator of CSUSM’s Brewchive, the creator of the San Diego Brewery Guide, and other beer experts for a conversation about San Diego’s beer scene. From 6:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 14. Free. latchkeybrew.com

@SDCITYBEAT

BOOKS: THE FLOATING LIBRARY Animal kingdoms

G

uadalupe Nettel is a gifted novelist, short story writer and essayist from Mexico City.

Her work has been translated into 10 languages, but only a handful are available in English, including her exquisite short story collection, Natural Histories, which was translated from Spanish by J.T. Lichtenstein and published by Seven Stories Press.

The stories in Natural Histories all deal with interactions between human beings and the animal kingdom. The collection opens with “The Marriage of the Red Fish,” a tale of two fish—Betta splendens aka “Siamese fighting fish” to be precise—and their combative relationship. The story of the fish, however, is a metaphor for the protagonist’s increasingly acrimonious marriage to her husband.

Nettel’s prose is spare and direct, but she has a gift for coming at the story in a way that’s slightly askew.

“I know it sounds foolish when put like this,” says the protagonist about her decision to move her aquatic counterpart into a new tank, “but my fish suffered by being separated, of that I’m absolutely sure. I could sense it as distinctly as I had earlier sensed her fear and her companion’s arrogance.”

“War in the Trash Cans” is set in the Roma

neighborhood of Mexico City and, somewhat surprisingly, shares some qualities with last year’s blockbuster film by Alfonso Cuarón. The protagonist is an orphan who comes to live with a wealthy family but feels more at home with the house servant who lives with her mother in a room on the roof.

The central conceit of “War in the Trash Cans” is how an infestation of cockroaches turns the house upside-down.

The story “Felina” concerns a young graduate student in Paris whose life is improved when she takes in a pair of cats. Although she tries to keep the felines apart, the female, Greta, becomes pregnant.

A short while later, the protagonist notices her period is late. She takes a home pregnancy test and the reader can probably guess what happens next.

“In the passing of a few minutes the happy and tender mindset Greta’s pregnancy had put me in turned into a nightmare.”

While aspects of Nettel’s storytelling are somewhat predictable, her sentences are clear, crisp and a pleasure to read.

—Jim Ruland

The Floating Library appears every other week.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 11

THEATER JIM COX

Bottom’s up

T

he Underpants of Steve Martin’s 2002 play belong to Louise Maske, a German housewife in the early 20th century who inadvertently drops her unmentionables in public. The result is that she attracts a couple of prospective renters of the room she and her husband Theo are letting. One is a dashing poet, Versati, who can’t get out of the way of his own swooning verbiage; the other is Cohen, a rank hypochondriac. In this noisy, 90-minute romp inside the Old Globe’s intimate White Theatre, Versati (Luis Vega) and Cohen (Michael Bradley Cohen) make their plays for Louise (Regina De Vera) while the unsuspecting Theo (Eddie Kaye Thomas) goes about his chauvinistic business.

I didn’t find The Underpants all that funny the first time I saw it seven years ago at the North Coast Rep in Solana Beach, nor do I find it that funny today. Based on Carl Sternheim’s farce Die Hose, the adaptation’s shouting and pratfalling come off like a more risqué sketch from The Carol Burnett Show, with everyone acting out in glorious costume and full throat. Cohen does it best of anyone in the cast, which also includes Joanna Glushak as the flushed and horny neighbor Gertrude, and Jeff Blumenkrantz and Kris Zarif in more minor roles. Tossing the Maskes’ house cats (and kicking one) is played for laughs, as is the repeated, uncomfortable bit of renter Cohen pretending not to be Jewish. The Martin strategy seems to be that if something works once, why not work it again? And again?

I will say this for the Old Globe production directed

by Walter Bobbie: It employs some canny stage effects.

The cats, the ones who eventually go flying, are animated with lifelike movements such as flopping tails. Recorded snippets of music, whether to evoke Wagner or to set the

12 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

OPENING: An Experiment with an Air Pump: Shelagh Stephenson’s murder mystery spans two centuries and examines the conflicts between science and religion. Presented by Backyard Renaissance Theatre Company and part of the La Jolla Playhouse’s Theatre in Residence program, it opens Aug. 8 at the Theodore & Adele Shank Theatre in La Jolla. lajollaplayhouse.org Next to Normal: Brian Yorkey’s Pulitzer-winning musical about a suburban family dealing with mental illness. Presented by STAR Repertory Theatre, it opens Aug. 9 at the Howard Brubeck Theatre in San Marcos. starrepertorytheatre.com Private Lives: Noel Coward’s classic play about a formerly married couple who reunite by chance and fall back in love only to find they still have issues. Directed by Larry Steckling, it opens Aug. 9 at PowPAC Community Theatre in Poway. powpac.org

The Underpants mood for a sexy seduction, accompany the action. An animatronic bird in a cage (an unsubtle metaphor for Louise perhaps?) is suspended from above and does everything but shed feathers.

This play has deep connections to the Old Globe. Die Hose was introduced to Martin by now-Globe Artistic Director Barry Edelstein, who also directed the world premiere of The Underpants in New York 17 years ago. Its run (through Sept. 8) in Balboa Park this summer is likely to be a busy and well-attended one.

The Underpants runs through Sept. 8 at the Old Globe’s Sheryl and Harvey White Theatre in Balboa Park. $30 and up; theoldglobe.org

Theater reviews run weekly.

Write to davidc@sdcitybeat.com.

—David L. Coddon

Treasure Island: Ken Ludwig’s adaptation of Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel about a young boy sailing the high seas with the pirate Long John Silver. Presented by Pickwick Players, it opens Aug. 9 at the Carlton Oaks School Theatre in Santee. pickwickplayers.net A Weekend with Pablo Picasso: Herbert Siguenza’s one-manshow where he plays the famous artist who is trying to finish a huge commission over a rushed weekend. Presented by Teatro Pueblo Nuevo and New Village Arts, it opens Aug. 10 at the New Village Arts Theatre in Carslbad. newvillagearts.org Romeo & Juliet: Two Italian teenagers from feuding families fall in love in Shakespeare’s classic tragedy. Part of the Old Globe’s Summer Shakespeare Festival, it opens Aug. 11 at the Lowell Davies Festival Theatre in Balboa Park. theoldglobe.org West Side Story: Bernstein and Sondheim liked Romeo & Juliet so much they made a lavish Broadway musical out if it set in New York City. Presented by Moonlight Stage Productions, it opens Aug. 14 at the Moonlight Amphitheatre in Vista. moonlightstage.com

For complete theater listings, visit sdcitybeat.com

@SDCITYBEAT

B

y now, nearly everyone is familiar with some version of “food groups.” Those of us who are a little older were taught at a young age that there were only four, sometimes five, food groups. Nowadays, there’s a more established six main food groups and even that feels somewhat limited.

There’s also the classic “food pyramid.” First developed in Sweden in the 1970s and later updated and tweaked by the USDA in the ’80s and ’90s, the pyramid always felt a little, well, incomplete and arbitrary. Are any of us really going to eat all those servings of fruits, veggies and grains in one day when there’s so much delicious meat and an endless array of sugary items? And

Fresh Catch

wait, aren’t carbs the same as sugar now anyway?

There’s so much dietary information and speculation out there that we decided to have a little fun with it. Rather than focus on health or gluttony, we used the food groups and the pyramid as a useful theme to introduce readers to some unique dishes that fall into one of these categories. Of course, we had to be a bit more broad when it came to writing about proteins and carbs, but we’re not doing the basics here; whatever readers love on their plate—be it chicken hearts or mushroom petals, fried fruit or beef (or fish) bone marrow—there’s a dish in this issue just waiting to be added to somone’s personal pyramid.

COURTESY OF LOLA 55

San Diego’s seafood scene is always fresh

By Beth Demmon Our seafood scene may not get as much attention as craft beer or In-N-Out, but there’s a bounty of wealth in the Pacific. What’s more, when something is as locally plentiful as seafood, local chefs feel free to get more creative and end up blowing expectations out of the water. So to speak.

Locally-caught spot prawns come from one fleet only: Saraspe Seafoods. The family-run business has been a San Diego institution since 1952 and holds the sole spot prawn fishing permit in town. (There are fewer than 20 issued in the entire state). Il Dandy, Herb & Wood and El Pescador all serve them on their menus, but it’s Little Italy’s Juniper & Ivy (2228 Kettner Blvd., juniperandivy.com) that first signed on with Saraspe a few years ago. Just like the prawns’ seasonal availability, the preparation of the prawns rotates, but Executive Chef Anthony Wells is partial to J&I’s seared spot prawns with corn and Old Bay butter.

“Because they are so fresh—literally alive until ordered— they have a beautiful sweetness to them,” Wells explains.

MIKE REIDY

Octopus a la plancha at Ironside Fish & Oyster @SDCITYBEAT

United States (a nod to comfort food tradition), in addition to just being a wildly yummy way to kick off a meal.

Finally, how can we talk about fish in San Diego without mentioning fish tacos? Everyone has a favorite, but it’s East Village newbie Lola 55 (1290 F St., lola55.com) that’s turned the classic fish taco concept on its head. The “insanely spicy smoked fish” taco isn’t playing around, according to Chef Drew Bent.

“It has this bomb of flavor,” says Bent. “The heat follows right behind, and really takes you over the edge. But it hurts so good... you’ll immediately go back in for another bite.”

Bent takes opah belly caught by local fishermen and smokes it before marinating it in house-made ponzu. Afterward, the marinated fish is stuffed inside wood-fired jalapeños and served with mustard greens, a secret-recipe habanero salsa, crema and a slice of bacon. He admits it’s a time-consuming taco—it takes a few days to prepare the complex ingredients—but it’s definitely worth it.

COURTESY OF JUNIPER & IVY

Insanely spicy smoked fish taco at Lola 55 Another local catch is uni, or sea urchin. Uni can be an acquired taste thanks to their fairly unique, buttery texture, but uni buffs know the freshest ones are at the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market (879 W. Harbor Drive, thdocksidemarket. com) every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. The spiky, wiggly black orbs are harvested year-round and don’t need much preparation—just crack open, grab a spoon, and enjoy raw.

Those who like it raw should also head to Ironside Fish & Oyster (1654 India St., ironsidefishandoyster.com), but don’t stop at the oysters. The Little Italy eatery’s octopus a la plancha has been a favorite since day one. The octopus itself is “fork tender”, according to Chef De Cuisine Mike Reidy. That’s thanks to an hours-long braising process that’s followed by a quick-stop shock bath of ice, then toorder preparation. It’s seared with butter (lots of butter) and dressed with a bevy of additional accoutrements like Spanish chorizo, Castelvetrano olives, shallots and more.

I keep my seafood excursions a little more casual at the Korean chain Myungrang Hot Dog inside the new H Mart in Kearny Mesa (7725 Balboa Ave., myungranghotdogus.com).

It’s not exactly a specialty seafood purveyor, but their squid ink and mozzarella hot dog is equal parts fun and photogenic. The ink-black batter doesn’t taste especially squid-y, but for a deep fried cheesy hot dog, I’m willing to cut them some slack.

The fish skin crisps at Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub (1815 South Coast Hwy., seabasstropub.com) have helped shape Oceanside into an impressive culinary destination, in addition to their inventive take on seafood and a punk rock interior that keeps things chill. Their fish skin crisps are a riff on tortilla chips, coming dressed with “WTF sauce” and guacamole. The inspiration behind the dish was both to utilize a part of the fish not commonly eaten in the

Spot prawns with corn and Old Bay Butter at Juniper & Ivy AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 13

Getting cheesy When it comes to dairy, we don’t want anything but gooey goodness

By Seth Combs Dairy is not a staple in my diet especially when it comes to milk in its original form. Sure, I like the occasional milk shake and some ice cream as much as the next person, but those seem more like dessert items, and we have a section for that.

And yogurt, particularly the Greek variety, is nice and healthy, but it’s not exactly a go-to when it comes to dining out.

Cheese, on the other hand, is a glorious entity all on its own and one that most diners would be more than content enjoying by itself or, at the least, as the accouterment that ties a dish together.

The post-recession resurgence of comfort food saw a preponderance of macaroni and cheese dishes. Almost overnight, fancy restaurants rushed to add their own clever takes on the pasta dish that was once reserved solely for barbecue joints and lower-end Italian restaurants. I’ve tried a number of mac and cheese dishes and have some faves (the versions at Starlite and Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant are a must), but my new favorite has to be the Duck Mac & Cheese at Feast & Fareway (2000 Visalia Row, feastandfarewaycoronado.com). Nestled right on the Coronado Municipal Golf Course, F & F is a newly remodeled hidden gem with a killer menu and cocktails. The mac and

Hog heaven From pork feet and bacon sushi, there are plenty of unique places to pig out

By Andrea Lopez-Villafaña The versatility of pork is astounding. It can be served in a taco, stuffed in a dumpling, placed between a bun or served cold. It is the most commonly consumed type of meat in the ANDREA LOPEZ-VILLAFAÑA

Pork Sugo at Trust Restaurant 14 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

cheese is served with a tender duck confit on top while the classically shaped macaroni is lathered in Havarti, white cheddar, parmesan and goat cheese. Just pop some meat off the duck leg and scoop up some mac with it for the perfect bite.

The charcuterie board is another staple of nearly every restaurant but I’m still yet to find a better one than the selection offered at The Patio on Goldfinch (4020 Goldfinch St., thepatioongoldfinch.com). This is likely due to the fact that the Mission Hills restaurant has its own “Cheese Cave” where the restaurant ages, cures, ferments and pickles nearly everything that comes on the boards. Given this fact, the selection rotates, but on a recent visit, I was treated to a Seascape (a cheddarstyle mix of goat and cow milk), a Westminster Rustic Red (a more nutty, sweet cheddar) and the intense La Gruta del Sol Tres Leches (goat, cow and sheep milk—hence the name).

It was recently revealed that the grilled cheese is the most popular sandwich in the U.S., even beating out staples such as PB&Js and BLTs. The regional chain Grater Grilled Cheese (gratergrilledcheese.com) has locations in Mission SETH COMBS

Basic 5 at Grater Grilled Cheeese

world and the way it is prepared, presented and cooked differs from region to region.

For example, dinuguan is a Filipino savory stew made from pig offal and pig blood with vinegar, chili and garlic. Its thick black appearance is definitely not a selling point, but it’s worth trying at least once. I decided to try the stew as it’s prepared at Tita’s Kitchenette (2720 E Plaza Blvd. Ste. E, ) in National City. The dinuguan is served in a bowl filled to the very top then covered in layers of cellophane to keep it from spilling out. The meat is incredibly tender and the blood stew itself is rich with flavor from the chili and garlic.

I ordered a side of steamed rice (shoutout to CityBeat’s art director for the pro tip) but it’s also commonly served with puto, a Filipino rice cake.

At Pozolería Doña María (1660 Broadway, pozoleriadonamaria.com) I found an appetizer and dish that I had never tried before: pickled pig’s feet. The appetizer is popular in Mexican and Chinese cuisine, and at Doña María’s, the manitas de puerco are slimy, cold and delicious. The consistency of pickled pig’s feet is almost jello-like but thicker and with little round bones inside. The pig’s feet are soaked in vinegar and go well with lime juice and hot sauce on top. Those not ready to dive in feet first, the Chula Vista eatery also has pig’s feet tostadas. The meat is boneless, cut up in pieces and served on a tostada with avocado, salsa and cheese.

Rather than try a new take on carnitas tacos, I gave pork sugo a try at Trust Restaurant (3752 Park Blvd. Ste. 105, trustrestaurantsd.com) in Hillcrest. Pork Sugo is an Italian dish of slow-cooked pork shoulder served on pasta. At Trust, it’s served over polenta, cornmeal served as porridge, and topped with fried sage. The meat itself was well-seasoned and had somewhat of a spicy kick to it but it was all balanced with the polenta.

When it comes to bacon, I found an interesting take in the most unexpected of places: Sabuku Sushi (3027 Adams Ave.,

HUY HOANG

Alligator Andouille Cheesecake at Louisiana Purchase Valley and Del Mar and is banking on the idea that locals have an insatiable appetite for melty cheese sandwiches since that’s pretty much the only thing that’s served. The grilled cheeses aren’t mind-blowing, but the selection is unmatched. I’d recommend the cheese blend in the “Basic 5,” and the “Lobster Grilled Cheese” which includes butter-fried lobster, krab and a housemade pale ale chipotle aioli. And, of course, don’t forget the side of tomato soup.

But if I had to recommend any one dish right now when it comes to cheese, it would have to be the Alligator Andouille Cheesecake at Louisiana Purchase in North Park (2305 University Ave., louisianapurchasesd.com). Don’t be fooled by the name, as this isn’t a dessert. It’s a savory concoction that chef Quinnton “Q” Austin says is influenced by Creole soul food dishes in New Orleans. It’s basically a beautifully blended and assembled block of cream cheese, gouda, parmesan, bell peppers and onions nestled atop a breadcrumb and Parmesan butter toast, and topped with alligator meat and a crawfish cream sauce. This unique dish is not for the faint of heart, as it’s almost ludicrously decadent and wonderfully dangerous for arteries.

ANDREA LOPEZ-VILLAFAÑA

Kurobata Pork XiaoLongBao at Din Tai Fung sabukusushi.com) in Normal Heights. Its chefs have gained some attention from the Travel Channel for their clever bacon rolls so I tried the So Cals a Bacon, basically a California roll but with bacon. At first, I must admit the combination of bacon and cold sushi took me by surprise but after the second roll, I was hooked. I also tried their famous When Pigs Fry Roll, a fried roll with bacon, spicy tuna and asparagus inside.

My favorite take on pork, however, was the Kurobuta Pork XiaoLongBao (XLB) at Din Tai Fung (4301 La Jolla Village Drive, Ste. 2000, dintaifungusa.com) located inside Westfield UTC. Also known as soup dumplings, Kurobuta Pork XLBs were brought to the table inside a steaming basket.

The waiter mixed soy sauce, ginger and vinegar, and kindly walked me through the process of eating a soup dumpling.

The pork is shaped into a small meatball and absorbs the savory flavors of the hot soup. It’s hog heaven, indeed.

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 15

Ground up From cool cucumbers to cauliflower steaks, it’s easy to get a full serving of veggies

By Lara McCaffrey Vegetables are in the biggest section of the out-dated food pyramid but still integral to most diets. They’re ever so versatile but easy to label as boring. Thankfully, some local restaurants are preparing vegetables in unique and exciting ways.

Spanish restaurant Costa Brava (1653 Garnet Ave., costabravasd.com) makes a refreshing cucumber tomato gazpaLARA MCCAFFREY

Veggie nigiri flight at NoW Sushi

Heavy starch Sure, they’re carbs, but these veggies are fit and filling

By Julia Dixon Evans Even though they’re everywhere, starches are a bit of a mystery. All starches are carbs but not all carbs are starches? Science, blah blah blah, all you need to know is that starches are delicious, filling and more surprising than I ever realized. Globally, starches tend to be common staple crops such as corn, chickpeas, cassava and potatoes. These foods take on the vessel role that is often relegated to bready carbs in the U.S. Cassava, for example, is a hardy plant that can withstand JULIA DIXON EVANS

Harissa corn at Donna Jean 16 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

cho. A classic in Spanish cuisine, gazpacho is a cold soup made of raw, blended vegetables. Upon my first sip, I noted the cool cucumber in the soup and intense flavors from the raw tomato and spices. If it gets too monotonous, the gazpacho can always be used as dipping sauce.

The seasonal veggie nigiri flight at new vegan sushi joint NoW Sushi (3852 Mission Blvd., noworriesmovement.org) was a more satisfying dish. After finishing a small bowl of fermented veggies, I started on a nigiri flight that included asparagus grilled with olive oil and salt wrapped with a nori seatbelt; flash-fried shiitake mushrooms tossed in miso paste served gunkan (wrapped in nori); lightly cooked and seasoned eggplant finished with sweet soy glaze; spicy “tuna” made from wheat and tofu served gunkan, and; an inari pocket wrapped with a kanpyo (sometimes spelled “kampyo,” a type of gourd) bow tie and drizzled with almond butter. The asparagus nigiri was fantastic, but the inari (almond butter + inari = game changer) was my favorite—it was grilled just right and flavorful despite simple ingredients.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse (901 Bayfront Court, Ste. 105, delfriscos.com) mostly specializes in high-end steaks, but the San Diego location has a roasted heirloom cauliflower steak side dish. Executive chef Brian Christman says it was developed to be “big and bold” and that he wanted it to be “exciting and craveable.”

The cauliflower is trimmed to resemble a steak, then blanched, rubbed with olive oil, roasted and brushed with mint chimichurri post-roast. It’s topped with grilled asparagus, sweet soy tossed farro, and roasted shiitake mushrooms that are also coated with sweet soy. It’s then plated with drizzles of tomato vinaigrette. The mint chimichurri and sweet soy transformed the normally bland cauliflower into the big and bold dish that Christman described. The cauliflower had the right amount of chew and mushrooms and asparagus added more welcome piquant tastes that pair nicely with a Chardonnay.

poor growing conditions and is thus a staple in the more arid parts of the world. I tried the sombe, a brothy cassava leaf stew at Flavors of East Africa (2322 El Cajon Blvd., flavorsofeastafrica.com) in North Park, where it’s generally served as a side dish with fish or meat. Alone, it tasted bitter, with the consistency and oiliness of the greens in a pot of gumbo, but it transformed when shoveled together with creamy lentil stew (dengu), rice (wali), the hominy cake (ugali) and a torn-off piece of unleavened bread.

Best described as a polenta-like crust or bread made from chickpea flour or mashed chickpeas, the farinata flatbread in the hearts of palm appetizer at Kindred (1503 30th St., South Park, barkindred.com) in South Park is more reminiscent of a soft-formed cake than a flatbread. Sliced thick and layered with a tangy aioli, creamy hearts of palm, cilantro, thin radishes and sprinkles of crumbled crispy trumpet mushrooms, the dish is more of a fork food than toast. Still, it’s filling, flavorful and delightfully unexpected.

Clever takes on elote are everywhere right now, with twists on the traditional seasoned Mexican street corn popping up at even non-Mexican restaurants. At Donna Jean, a plant-based sit-down joint (2949 Fifth Ave., donnajeanrestaurant.com) in Bankers Hill, the harissa corn dish is beautifully plated, with charred, sliced cobs piled with cabbage, onion, fennel and a zesty yogurt drizzle. But with the kernels still attached to the cob core, I had no idea how to proceed. I picked up a saucy piece with my hands, gnawed the kernels off and licked my fingertips. When the server returned, I asked how I was supposed to eat it. “Just like that,” she said. “Or... with a fork.” And as she walked away, she added, “If you need another napkin, just let me know!”

Perfectly seasoned, grilled to a golden crisp and tossed with firm, grilled tofu crumbles and mushrooms, the tofu, potato and mushroom burrito at Pokéz Mexican Restaurant

LARA MCCAFFREY

Cauliflower steak at Del frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse Ratatouille Empanadas at Empanada Kitchen (819 C St., empanada-kitchen.com) might also impress vegetarians. Co-owner Matias Rigali says Empanada Kitchen’s take on the savory pastries are healthier than those in his native Argentina as they are baked instead of fried. Its Ratatouille Empanada is the sole vegan option. “[Ratatouille is] roasted vegetables,” says Rigali. “In the case of this recipe, the origin was a French recipe. I obviously had to simplify certain things to make it more viable.

But I did have the basic ingredients... eggplant, zucchini, red bell peppers, garlic, onions and tomatoes.”

Eggplant and tomato flavors dominated the Ratatouille empanada, and their textures made for a juicy bite. Its crescent shaped crust had a consistency between pie crust and bread—a little flaky yet chewy. I was reminded of ratatouille I’ve had at French restaurants but found it more exciting in empanada form. Bon appétit.

JULIA DIXON EVANS

Hearts of palm at Kindred & Vegetarian Cuisine (947 E St., pokezrestaurant.com) in Downtown is a crowd pleaser and the reason I have literally never tried anything else on the extensive Pokez menu. On a recent trip, however, I opted for the taco with the same ingredients, which was topped with fresh pico de gallo and shredded lettuce. The thick, warm corn tortilla was stuffed to the brim and I left feeling as if I may have a new favorite.

The loaded “super fries” options at WhipHand (935 J St., whiphandsd.com) in the Gaslamp are impressive. I opted for the Impossible Superfries, which are loaded with a thick, mellow cashew cheese sauce, roasted seasonal veggies and large crumbles of the trendy vegan Impossible burger. The burger pieces were charred and crispy, and with the seemingly random (but welcomed) inclusion of vegetables. And just like that, my (and everyone else’s, really) go-to drinking snack of French fries was suddenly a well-balanced plate and nutritious meal.

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Bare fruit Salads and brunch sides are great, but they can also be the stars of the show

By Torrey Bailey Fruits are for chutneys, salad toppers and pastry fillers.

And while they’re not often the show-stopping main attraction of haute cuisine, San Diego does have some creative ways to get a daily dose.

Breakfast dishes are a piece of cake, what with salads, parfaits and smoothies, but Cesarina (4161 Voltaire St., cesarinarestaurant.com) in Point Loma has the Tuttifruitti, a waffle topped with a scoop of acai sorbet, strawberries, blueberries, grapes, mango and figs. Another star is the lemon ricotta French toast with whipped cream and housemade raspberry sauce.

Fruit-based appetizers are supposed to be on the healthier side of the diet spectrum, until a Little Italy restaurant like Cafe Gratitude (1980 Kettner Blvd.) comes along to dunk coconut in a boiling tub of oil. Honestly, I had my doubts about the Exquisite dish—coconut calamari that’s served with a tangy barbecue-like cocktail sauce. But I squeezed a lemon over the bed of fried shreds and took a bite. And that’s the last time I question frying anything.

Whisknladle’s (1044 Wall St., whisknladle.com) watermelon gazpacho steered me back toward fruit’s healthier

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reputation. Cold and raw, the soup is complimented by a dollop of cucumber sorbet, chunks of pickled watermelon rind, drops of chili oil and a sprinkle of micro cilantro that keep it from feeling like a smoothie. The watermelon rind added an extra savory, satisfactory bite to the gazpacho, which, according to my notes, was “REFRESHING”—caps lock, underline. Watermelon also appears on the La Jolla restaurant’s menu in the local halibut tuna crudo, made with watermelon granita, honeydew, pickled watermelon rind, lime ginger marinade, cilantro and chili oil. It’s a variation on many of the gazpacho’s ingredients and, again, the pickled watermelon rind saved the day by adding crunch and saltiness while also cooling the dish’s spiciness.

Del Sur (2310 30th St., delsurmexicancantina.com) in South Park has a real talent for camouflaging fruit. Raw jackfruit may look like a dinosaur egg, but the restaurant shreds it, marinates it and slaps it on a tortilla with cabbage, poblano crema and chipotle aioli. I’d almost swear it was pork. Though more restaurants are introducing jackfruit as a vegan option, meat-eaters shouldn’t overlook it.

Del Sur also offers plantain tacos, tostadas and enchiladas, as well as a roasted plantain appetizer that’s sweet not sinful. These takes make a compelling argument for fruit in the main course.

While there are countless stone fruit cobblers and berry pies around town, this list wouldn’t be legit without a fruit salad. Living just outside of Southeast San Diego, I didn’t expect to drive to San Marcos for such a good-looking Sandia Loca, which is essentially a glorified fruit salad served in a halved watermelon with Mexican candy, nuts and—if diners want it—pickled pork (hard pass for me). In the back kitchen of DisFruta (446 W Mission Road, facebook.com/ disfrutaSM), two women sang as they whipped it up. After

TORREY BAILEY

Sandia Loca at DisFruta all the gourmet takes, I loved returning to the simplicity of watermelon, mango, honeydew, cantaloupe and strawberries doused in chamoy and Tajín. Maybe that’s why fruit isn’t entree material. Because it’s best in its natural state, not fried or liquified.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 17

Where’s the Beef?

Korean barbecue and Baja bone marrow are just a few answers to that question

By Michael A. Gardiner Two of the most memorable advertising campaigns of all time involve beef. There’s the Beef Industry Council’s “Beef.

It’s What’s for Dinner” campaign, and there’s the unforgettable occurrence during the 1984 Presidential Primary debates when in a takeoff on a Wendy’s ad blitz, Walter Mondale repeatedly asked his primary challenger, Gary Hart, “Where’s the beef?” Hart never quite successfully answered that question. I’m here to do so.

Top shelf steakhouse cuts usually come to mind when diners think about beef. There may be no better example in town than the dry-aged porterhouse at Born & Raised (1909 India St., consortiumholdings.com/projects/bornraised) in Little Italy. One clue that’s the dish to get is the glass-enclosed dry-aging room visible at the dining room’s apex. It’s cool to debate whether moisture evaporation or enzymatic changes account for the flavor improvement in dry-aged meat but what isn’t debatable is the improvement itself.

At the other end of the spectrum is the Balboa Burger at

Getting clucked up From hot pot pies to bird hearts, we’ll cross the road for these chicken dishes

By Ryan Bradford Remember when the phrase “tastes like chicken” littered every corner of pop-culture? I’m certain dozens of lazy television and film writers earned their wings by inserting that little punchline into dialogue.

But behind every joke, there’s an element of truth, and the “tastes like chicken” trope attests to the fact that the RYAN BRADFORD

Señor Croque at Crack Shack 18 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

The Balboa Bar & Grill (1863 Fifth Ave., thebalboabarandgrill.com) in Bankers Hill and its twin, the Standard Burger at Sister Ray’s (549 25th St., sisterrays.com) in Sherman Heights. Both of these burgers are ones I’ve described previously as “everything a hamburger should be and nothing it really doesn’t need to be.” That is, there’s nothing fancy about these two slightly different takes on the theme. What they are, though, is the essence of simple, honest, beefy burger goodness.

Sonoran beef is some of the best in the world and carne asada is one of the most familiar Mexican dishes in Southern California. There may be no better version than the tacos perrones at Tacos El Yaqui (Mar del Norte 115 22710, facebook.com/tacoselyaqui) in Rosarito. Its flour tortillas are filled with cheese and cooked briefly on the flat top before being filled with guacamole, pinto beans, chopped white onion, fresh cilantro a bit of salsa and carne asada (from Sonoran arrachera) grilled over mesquite wood.

One of the more interesting and elevated beef dishes in the region is from Raíces Restaurante Baja Internacional Cuisine (Carretera Libre Tijuana-Ensenada Km 44.5 22712, facebook.com/RaicesBaja) in Puerto Nuevo. It’s a high-wire act starring rich, roasted bone marrow, the smoky flavors of onion ash and a slightly acidic salsa of charred tomatillo, jalapeño and poblano chiles along with avocado. Somehow it all stays in balance and manages to show a different side of beef.

But there may be no better way to enjoy the spectrum of beef’s flavors than at Korean barbecue. One of the best places to do so is Gen Korean BBQ (10765 Westview Parkway, genkoreanbbq.com) in Mira Mesa. Korean barbecue is, of course, meats (either in their simple, unadorned states or marinated in the kitchen) that are grilled by the customer

meat is so ubiquitous and inoffensive that it lacks personality. However, I’ll throw out another trite phrase: “Only boring people get bored.” That is, chicken is only boring if it’s prepared that way, and there are lots of places in San Diego doing exciting things with this boid.

Chicken pot pie is the ultimate comfort food. When I die, I want to be shoved in a giant pot pie, so I can spend the rest of eternity in gooey, warm happiness. University Heights’ Pop Pie (4404 Park Blvd., poppieco.com) offers an amazing selection of savory and sweet pies, but their classic chicken pot pie hits all the right feels. Breaking through the layered, flaky crust—an aesthetic and culinary miracle unto itself— felt like unearthing a heartwarming treasure. Hearty chunks of chicken cozy up alongside carrots and other veggies, and it’s all smothered in Pop Pie’s herb gravy (which I would probably drink straight).

Based on the sheer amount of praise I’ve heard given to the chicken-centric Crack Shack in Little Italy (2266 Kettner Blvd., crackshack.com), I was expecting a culinary mind-blow. Don’t get me wrong, my Señor Croque—a crispy chicken sandwich with bacon, fried egg and cheddar—was very good, but there was nothing subtle about it. It tasted quintessentially American, like something Guy Fieri would kill for, or the perfect meal for a stoned college kid. I’m sure next time I get really high, I’ll be craving this (as long as I don’t dwell too long on the fact that there’s both a chicken and an egg). The hot chicken oysters, though, were perfect and I would go back to Little Italy just for them.

Dos Brasas Mexican Food (1890 San Diego Ave.) in Old Town looks just like any taco shop. In fact, it might even look a little grimier, but my quest to find some great chicken tortilla soup would not be derailed by aesthetics. And boy, am I glad I persevered. The soup was fantastic. Crunchy bits of tortilla and avocado mingled with large pieces of shredded chicken, so every spoonful was a bonanza. A mediumsized bowl cost less than $5, which is the best deal I’ve seen in a long time.

MICHAEL A. GARDINER

Roasted bone marrow at Raîces Restaurante at the table. Gen offers a number of beef options ranging from top sirloin steak to thinly sliced beef brisket, short plate (belly), bulgogi, Hawaiian-marinated steak and the ever-popular small intestine. The marinated versions are wonderful, but it’s those unadorned ones that best show the range and wonder of beef. And those intestines are, believe it or not, the tastiest of them all.

Whether the “it’s what’s for dinner” ad campaign tapped into America’s deep love of beef, the reasons for that love are richly evidenced by these six restaurants and their varied approaches to the ingredient. Where Gary Hart had no such answer to the “where’s the beef?” question, our region has plenty.

RYAN BRADFORD

Ginger garlic wings at Werewolf I’ve recently come to the sad realization that despite my love for buffalo wings, my body can no longer handle buffalo sauce. Without getting too graphic, let’s just say there have been issues. Werewolf (627 Fourth Ave., thewerewolf.net) in the Gaslamp, however, makes a ginger garlic wing that’s absolutely delightful. The masterful sweet and savory flavor reminds me of how a fancy chicken nugget would taste.

Due to its name, I wasn’t expecting to find chicken at Rei Do Gado Brazilian Steak House (939 Fourth Ave., reidogado.net), which is one of those buffet-style restaurants where waiters carry cuts of exotic meat to each table. “Are you feeling adventurous?” my friend asked, eyeing a waiter behind me. Before I could answer, a man with a skewer approached our table.

“Chicken hearts?” he asked.

“Uh, sure. I’ll try one.” The waiter emptied half the skewer on my plate. Reluctantly, I put one of the hearts in my mouth. It was chewy, like a piece of fat. The taste wasn’t bad. In fact, it tasted... like chicken.

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For the fungi of it Morels and molds, yeast and truffles; there’s more to it than just mushrooms

By Jackie Bryant BELDESANTI PHOTO

When tasked with writing about fungi, a category that includes yeast, mold and truffles—my mind instantly went to yeasty breads. I’m a bit of a carb queen.

My favorite bakery in town is Bird Rock’s Wayfarer Bread and Pastry (5525 La Jolla Blvd., wayfarerbread.com). Owner and head baker Crystal White has received local and national accolades and her spot is a dedicated hangout for food enthusiasts and local passers-by. Her naturally fermented dough results in a springy, spongy and tangy sourdough that can be enjoyed on its own, though a swipe of cultured butter, extra virgin olive oil or perhaps an oozy fresh mozzarella slice would do the trick. Sometimes I spring for the breakfast sandwich with house-made English muffins. Thursday night is pizza night and another treat for which I break my once-a-week visit rule. A yeasty pie with mortadella? Sign me up.

One of my favorite new openings of late is North Park’s Louisiana Purchase (2305 University Ave., louisianapurchasesd.com). Admittedly, I was skeptical about whether it could be a success. I love food made with the flavors of New Orleans, but it tends to skew a bit heavier. So, I was delighted to come across the oyster mushroom petals with a sweet potato foie mousse.

Thanks to the fleshy character of oyster mushroom petals, which are often compared to the taste of morels, I often use them as a meat substitute when I’m cooking risotto or pilaf. The sweet potato mousse adds a whiff of decadence that stays true to New Orleans while lightening things up a bit. I loved it.

Known more for their array of meat tacos, includJACKIE BRYANT

Breakfast sandwich at Wayfarer Bread and Pastry

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Magic Mushroom Matcha at Parakeet Café ing their famous lamb barbacoa, Aqui es Texcoco (520 Broadway, aquiestexcoco.com) in Chula Vista also makes my sleeper favorite vegetarian dish in town: huitlacoche tacos. They are probably the best example of them in San Diego at the moment. Huitlacoche is considered to be a delicacy in Mexico, though it is considered a flaw in the growing process in the United States. Colloquially referred to in culinary circles as “Mexican truffle” and “corn smut” in agricultural circles, it’s a fungus that randomly grows on organic corn that hasn’t been treated with a fungicide. It usually appears after a period of rain and is considered fairly rare.

It is also absolutely delicious. It can be served in soups, stews and other dishes but, honestly, it’s perfect nestled in a tortilla, usually with some kind of melty cheese and a punchy salsa. That’s exactly what is served at Aqui es Texcoco, and it’s one of the best tacos in town, IMO. Parakeet Café (parakeetcafe.com), with locations in La Jolla and Little Italy, is also getting in on the fungus game. On the current menu is a Magic Mushroom Matcha with ashwagandha, a four-sigmatic 10-mushroom blend that comes with lavender honey and a choice of milk or water. Ashwagandha is a supplement favored in woo-woo health circles for its anti-anxiety properties. Basically, the latte tastes like a typical mildly sweetened matcha latte with a serious dose of funk. The lavender helps. I’m not sure if my anxiety was lessened any, owing to the caffeine in the matcha, but it’s a nice thought.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 19

Good carbs

COURTESY OF MONZÙ FRESH PASTA

Sure, we’re supposed to avoid them, but we’re not giving up pizza, pasta and sandwiches

By Seth Combs I’ve got good news and bad news: The bad news is that carbs, especially refined carbs, are still not very good for us.

The good news is that most carb-heavy foods still taste so damn good. Giving up these non-starch carbs for the sake of dieting or weight-loss is tantamount to torture and never more so than when it comes to the dishes below. And when it comes to carbs we’re always told to avoid (but never do), there are three staples: pizza, pasta and sandwiches.

First, when it comes to pizza, San Diego is a spoil of riches. I know everyone has a favorite, be it New York-style (Bronx, Luigi), Chicago-style (Lefty’s, Chicago Bros.) or more Italian-forward takes (Buona Forchetta, Bruno), and all of those places have been written about extensively and deservedly so.

But I’m going to make the case here for newcomer Il Dandy (2550 Fifth Ave., Ste. 120, ildandyrestaurant.com) in Bankers Hill. Everything on the Il Dandy is exceptionally delicious and this makes sense considering the father-andson chef duo (Antonio and Luca Abbruzzino) are Michelinrated chefs who came over from the Calabria region of Italy

Beyond slabular meat From clever takes on tofu to fried grasshoppers, there’s pleasure to be found in these alternate proteins

By Michael A. Gardiner Once upon a time it was assumed that meat in slabular form would be at the center of nearly every plate. It was a big, hulking steak and sometimes a braised lamb shank or barbecued pork ribs.

MICHAEL A. GARDINER

Cold tofu at Wa Dining Okon 20 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

Raviolone Cacio e Pepe at Monzù Fresh Pasta to open Il Dandy. And while the pizzas are on the pricy side, they are worth every penny. The ingredients are unique and impeccably sourced, and the dough strikes that perfect balance between thin and chewy. My recommendation: The Calabria (yellow cherry tomatoes, Fior di Latte mozzarella and Caciocavallo cheese, N’Duja spreadable salami and orange zest), as well as the addictive Buongustaia (pumpkin, Guanciale pork, fresh truffle, hazelnut and Pecorino Romano cheese).

The sandwich is a lunch staple at CityBeat and we’ll hap-

Today, though, things have changed. Vegetarian and vegan diets have made major inroads in our society. And when it comes to meat, the nose-to-tail movement has helped chefs—and, derivatively, diners—recognize that it’s incumbent not to waste the less popular parts of the animal’s body while also seeking out alternate proteins.

At Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub (1815 South Coast Hwy., seabasstropub.com) in Oceanside, Davin Waite puts his belief in a “no waste” ethos into action with dishes like swordfish bone marrow shooters. Waite says Tommy the Fishmonger told him about it and he “was instantly hooked.” Unlike beef bone marrow (rich and heavy), the swordfish version (which is actually swordfish spinal fluid) is light and ever-so-slightly-creamy.

Menudo rojo is tripe and pig’s foot in a rich pork broth spiked with toasted and rehydrated dried Guajillo chiles and dotted with kernels of hominy maize. At Birrieria Bernal (Carretera Libre Tijuana, 664-503-03-30) in Rosarito’s nontouristy side, menudo rojo is served up with minced white onion, cilantro and limes. Dive into it with their homemade tortillas and a bit of their two great salsas.

At Taquería El Trailero (353 Col. El Sauzal 22760) in Ensenada, the thing to get is the carne asada tacos with tripa. While one might think that “tripa” is Spanish for what we call “tripe,” it’s actually little tubes of small intestine caramelized on the outside with a soft texture inside and a pleasant, liver-like flavor. When they share space in the taco with that carne asada the result is a symphony of textures and flavors.

Tofu is an ingredient most might consider to be bland, but the homemade stuff at Wa Dining Okon (3860 Convoy St., wadiningokan.top-cafes.com) is glorious. Name notwithstanding, their cold tofu is inspiring with a luxurious custard-like texture. Garnished with ginger paste, chopped scallions and a nest of bonito flakes, a dash of soy sauce brings the whole thing together. It’s a dish not to be missed.

Some say one can deep-fry just about anything, douse

pily make the case for the selections at any of our neighborhood shops, be it the ridiculous carb-bomb “Hot Poppa” at Fatboy’s Deli (turkey with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and jalapeños) or the equally spicy “Burnin’ Band” (spicy turkey with jalepeños, cherry peppers, three-pepper cheese and habanero mayo) at Classic Rock Sandwich Shoppe.

Out of North Park, however, and I’d personally make the case that the deli at Mona Lisa Italian Foods (2061 India St., monalisalittleitaly.com) still makes the best sandwich in town (I can never choose between the Deluxe Sub and the Caprese with hard salami, so I just end up getting both). But our office’s latest obsession is the Bahn Mi sandwiches at A Chau (4644 El Cajon Blvd.) in City Heights. The eatery’s façade is not much to look at, but after a recommendation from CityBeat food critic Michael Gardiner, we can’t get enough of the barbecued pork and sugarcane shrimp banh mi, both of which are served on delicious, perfectly toasted French baguettes.

Much like pizza, pasta joints aren’t hard to come by in San Diego. I’m still in love with the fresh offerings at Bencotto in Little Italy. Dishes like the Tagliatelle al Nero Di Seppia (hand cut, black squid-ink fettuccine in a spicy pink sauce with shrimp) are all diners need to understand why this place survives when so many Little Italy eateries come and go. However, my new favorite has to be Monzù Fresh Pasta (455 10th Ave., monzufreshpasta.com) in the East Village. All of the ingredients here are made fresh daily, including the pasta itself. And while dishes like the lasagna get a lot of the attention, I’d personally recommend the Raviolone Cacio e Pepe (raviolo stuffed with pecorino cheese—spring for the black truffle shavings) and the subtley spicy “Red Bomb Spaghetti” with its perfect sauce that includes Calabrian hot peppers.

MICHAEL A. GARDINER

Deep-fried grasshoppers at Popotla it in hot sauce and it’ll be delicious. I put the question to the test with a vendor walking around the beach market at Popotla (a fishing village on the beach just south of Rosarito) with his bucket of deep-fried grasshoppers, some limes and a big bottle of Valentino hot sauce. Crunchy, savory and spicy with just a hit of acidity, his bugs were a truly great, protein-rich snack.

Tasting these various proteins that are not the glory cuts and not meat in slabular form and two things become clear: We eat a lot of the same thing, for one. But more than that, we can appreciate the range of textures and flavors in dishes that feature alternative forms of protein if we’re willing to seek them out rather than simply settling, yet again, for a big slab of expensive meat.

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COURTESY OF CUSP DINING AND DRINKS

Sheep happens From fancy gyros to borrego tatemado south of the border, it’s time to have a little lamb

By Jackie Bryant Lamb is a protein I’ve only truly grown to love in the last year or so. I’m a die-hard beef enthusiast, but I used to write lamb off as “too gamey.” Because my food-writing career has given me the opportunity to taste meat that is truly gamey (like elk, moose and various woodland creatures), I’ve realized that throwing lamb in the same category is not only inaccurate, it’s a cop-out. I was just looking for an excuse to eat more beef.

Thanks to a dish in the Valle de Guadalupe, I’m forever sold on lamb as one of my favorite proteins. That’s where I found La Cocina de Doña Esthela’s (Ranchos San Marcos, El Porvenir, Ejido) famous borrego tatemado (fire-roasted lamb), which is easily one of the most decadent breakfast treats around. But at the swanky Bruma hotel’s flagship restaurant, Fauna (Carretera Ensenada, Tecate km #73, faunarestaurante.mx), there exists a crunch-yet-juicy borrego tatemado that is decadent and transcendent. Saying it’s a

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Rack of lamb at Cusp Dining and Drinks product of the sum of its individually perfect parts hardly does it justice.

Closer to home in San Diego, City Heights’ El Borrego (4280 El Cajon Blvd., elborregorestaurant.com) is one of the best spots for lamb, especially when it comes to Mexican dining. To experience the full spectacle, arriving on Sunday is a must, but come prepared to wait. El Borrego’s lamb barbacoa feast is slow-cooked for eight hours and can be ordered in tacos, platters or on sopes. They cook it Hidalgostyle, which means it isn’t cooked with any chiles or chile

pastes so make sure the consomme is served alongside it.

Another borrego taco can be found at City Tacos in North Park and La Mesa (citytacossd.com). Their version includes pulled lamb with wild mushrooms, cotija cheese, tomato, cilantro and is topped off with fried leeks, which give it a good crunch. A quick hit of chipotle oil sends it over the top.

But apart from Mexican dishes, there are other places in San Diego where lamb arguably shines the brightest. But a donut joint? Little Italy’s Devil’s Dozens Donut Shop (2001 Kettner Blvd., devils-dozen.com), which is part of the SDCM Restaurant group, recently released a lunch menu. On it is a succulent lamb gyro with yogurt, tomato, pickled red onion and cucumber. Even better, they purchase the lamb from a farm in Sonoma County.

Hillcrest’s Et Voilà! French Bistro (3015 Adams Ave., etvoilabistro.com) has a Faux Filet D’agneau En Croute De Cresson on the menu, which is a Colorado lamb top sirloin with roasted fingerlings, confit baby fennel and finished off with mint-chimichurri sauce. The lamb is incredibly tender, juicy and cooked to perfection.

La Jolla’s Cusp Dining and Drinks (7955 La Jolla Shores Drive, cusprestaurant.com) has a new summer menu that features a rack of lamb with mole rojo, masa dumplings, summer squash and corn. It’s a Mexican-inspired dish that takes a weaker mole and pairs it with a more strongly flavored meat. I’ve never had lamb and mole before, and I was happy for the new contrast.

Finally, Lemon Grove’s homey Italian bistro, Giardino (8131 Broadway, giardinosd.com) has a delicious rack of lamb, a classic dish I’m always happy to see on my plate. I like that Giardino is off the beaten restaurant path in San Diego and find it worth the drive from time to time.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 21

The other food group Fats and oils are staples that can be just as creative and delicious as any main course

By Jackie Bryant When it comes to food, one of the subjects nearest and dearest to my heart is the fat category. I’ve often said that even though I love meat, I could probably go vegetarian, but never vegan because of my love of butter.

One of the most buzzed-about slabs of the good stuff is made by Jack Ford of Taj Farms, which is not-so-secretly supCOURTESY OF JACK FORD

Jack Ford butter at Taj Farms

Just desserts

plying some of San Diego’s best chefs with its special sheep’s milk cheese. Ford makes a cultured butter, which differs from regular butter because bacteria and buttermilk are added, giving the final product a tangier taste and a unique bouquet, thanks to the lactic acid created in the culturing process.

After that, Ford hand-separates the cream and inculcates it with sheep’s yogurt. He lets it bloom for several days, after which he whips it into butter. The whole process, from the animal to where it’s consumed, is entirely local. Current enthusiasts include local chefs Drew Deckman (Deckman’s en el Mogor), Jeff Jackson (The Lodge at Torrey Pines) and Tim Kolanko (Urban Kitchen Group). Because the butter is handmade and relatively scarce, these chefs mainly use it for special dinners and not on the standard menus.

It was harder to find chefs who actually use handmade butter during regular service at their restaurants. The Trust restaurant group, which is helmed by chef Brad Wise, does just that at its two higher-end properties, Trust in Hillcrest (3752 Park Blvd., trustrestaurantsd.com), and Fort Oak (1011 Fort Stockton Drive, fortoaksd.com) in Mission Hills.

Though labor-intensive for a full-service kitchen, Wise says using handmade butter is rewarding, especially when paired with their house-made sourdough bread (having scarfed it down dozens of times, I concur). He starts with high-quality heavy cream and either buttermilk or yogurt (for the cultures) and lets it sit for 28 to 36 hours in a dry, 70-80 degree environment. He then mixes it in a standing mixer until the whey separates from the fats.

Once that happens, he and his team hang it in the walkin fridge for 24-hours to let any remaining whey dry out.

Finally, the remaining mixture is whipped until light and fluffy, and then seasoned with local sea salt. Wise thinks that made-from-scratch ingredients allow for tweaks and finesse, which usually result in a better flavor.

While handmade butter is admittedly my kryptonite, I’m also an olive oil enthusiast. I mainly cook with extra virgin

SETH COMBS

From gourmet churros to decadent crème bruleès, we’re sweet on these sugary dishes

By Seth Combs Sugar was that part of the food pyramid our teachers always told us to avoid, which simply made it all the more enticing. From the moment we were cognizant of taste, sweetness has always been the most preferable of the five receptors on our tongues.

What’s more, the whole concept of desserts, instilled in us from a young age, is quite bizarre. It’s like saying, if you eat as much as you can, you will be rewarded with something that’s even more gluttonous. And while there is no definitive list of the best desserts and sweet spots in San Diego, I would like to take this moment to maybe introduce readers to a few under-the-radar places where they may find something that is not the typical treat.

I’ve always been more partial to candy over cakes and other desserts. I love going to candy shops and loading up on exotic, international treats and old-school candies I thought were discontinued a long time ago. For example, did anyone know they still made Zagnuts? Well, they can

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Churros at 3Ten Churrobar still be found at Cousin’s Candy Shop (2711 San Diego Ave., cousinscandy.net) in Old Town, along with a bevy of other vintage candies waiting to be rediscovered. For more exotic treats, I like to peruse the Asian candy aisles at Zion Market (7655 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., zionmarket.com) or the British treats at Shakespeare Corner Shoppe (3719 India St., sandiegoafternoontea.com) for Jaffa Cakes and Violet Crumbles (the best candy bar in the world—fight me).

JAMES TRAN

Temecula olive oil olive oil, owing to my roots growing up Italian-American and having previously lived in southern Europe. One local company, Temecula Olive Oil Company (28653 Old Town Front St., temeculaoliveoil.com) has made it big and its products are used in plenty of local commercial and home kitchens.

Besides guzzling the oil, one of the best ways to experience it is to visit the ranch itself. I had the pleasure of attending a dinner in the olive tree groves once, and it was a magical experience especially since I was surrounded with good food.

The ranch’s team will take visitors through a spin of the property and their operations that begins with an olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting. Best of all, it costs just $20.

Nestled right next to a Souplantation in Mira Mesa—as if calling out to the pre-diabetic masses—3Ten Churrobar (8111 Mira Mesa Blvd., Ste B, churrobar.com) has had lines out the door since opening a few months ago and for good reason. At 3Ten, patrons have the choice to order from six varieties of churros or from nearly churro-and-ice cream combos. I tried almost all of them and highly recommend the “Unicorn Oops” (cotton candy ice cream served with rainbow sprinkled churros, chocolate bits and a purple chocolate syrup drizzle) and the Fortune Cookie (matcha ice cream served with coconut churos, and bits of mochi, fortune cookie and strawberry Pockys).

We often think of delis as not the ideal place to grab desserts, but I’d argue it’s worth grabbing a number at DZ Akin’s (6930 Alvarado Road, dzakinsdeli.com) in the College Area to grab some macaroons, strudels and a blackand-white cookie (look to the cookie!). For the best German chocolate cake in town, head north to Carlsbad for the hidden gem that is Tip Top Meats (6118 Paseo Del Norte, tiptopmeats.com).

And look, when it comes to sugar, I can think of no better representation of the joys of sugar than crème bruleè. It’s as if the creator said to themselves, “Sacré bleu! This sugary custard is good, but it could be really good with some toasty, crunchy sugar on top!” This is assuming it was originally a French creation in the first place, but I love crème bruleè. If it’s on the menu, I’ll order it. I recently had the pleasure of trying pastry chef Elisabeth Woesle’s classic take on a crème bruleè, which is served with lavender cookies at Morada at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe (5951 Linea Del Cielo, theinnatrsf.com). Woesle’s dessert is so popular that the Inn recently began using it for the brunchtime crème bruleè French toast. Right… cause good wasn’t good enough.

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 23

CULTURE | FILM COURTESY OF MUSIC BOX FILMS COURTESY OF THE ORCHARD

Them That Follow

Poisonous faith Piranhas

Kid kingpins Gripping Italian gangster film addresses the cycles of criminality

by Glenn Heath Jr.

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riminal gangs survive because of recruitment. mastermind as destroyer. Yet, Nicola is the rare leadNew blood strengthens the ranks, providing er who both galvanizes his close-knit followers and those in charge with the necessary muscle sympathizes with them. Everyone else is expendable.

While many Italian filmmakers have explored how to keep their positions of power. The gangster film endures in much the same way; young artists want the conventions of the gangster genre have evolved to make their mark on a genre that dates back to the because of modern social and political forces, Piradawn of cinema. But being part of something bigger nhas almost entirely omits reference to law enforcement, governmental policy and class. is never enough for either group of upstarts.

This is a film concerned with the ground level, a In both cases, ambition becomes the driving factor for audacious cyclical change. Low-level syndi- street perspective that only changes when Nicola cate soldiers develop a taste for power and hatch takes on a position of authority.

The gutting reality of every gangster film, however, plans to dispatch their unsuspecting bosses. Young filmmakers can be equally opportunistic (aestheti- is that it’s lonely at the top. In one scene, after Nicola cally speaking), subverting the tropes and iconogra- has achieved a certain level of power, he looks out an phy established so thoroughly by their predecessors apartment window and down onto the square where a once bustling local marketin order to put a unique spin place was located. Instead of on the rise-and-fall arc. seeing the vendors he had preThe great irony is that PIRANHAS viously promised to protect, institutions so dependent Directed by Claudio Giovannesi there’s only empty space. on consistency often end up “How long are young goinviting upheaval. Claudio Starring Francesco Di Napoli, ing to last in this game?”

Giovannesi’s Piranhas acutely Viviana Aprea and Pasquale Marotta Those words are aggressively addresses this relationship Not Rated shouted by one of Nicola’s elthrough the violent story of derly competitors during their Nicola (Francesco Di Napoli), contentious parting of ways. an enterprising teenager who unsettles the machinations and traditions of Mafioso They function as so much more than mere threat; to lore to quickly rise up the gangster ranks in urban survive in the gangster world (as well as the filmmaking world) there’s an element of reinvention that has Naples.

In just a matter of months, Nicola’s squad of to happen. Nicola knows this and constantly makes fresh-faced chauvinists go from fistfights with rival new alliances and betrays those that have thus far ruffians to machine gun-toting assaults on rival over- propped up his influence.

One could argue that Giovannesi has taken a comlords. Their rise happens almost organically, inspired

by Nicola’s frustration over extortion payments being pletely different track to achieve the same goal. Rathforced upon his mother, a small business owner who er than embracing some virtuoso form or dynamic is being forced to pay the ruling cartel for protection. narrative approach, his fluidly economic style almost Instead of resorting to guerilla violence against lulls the viewer into thinking these young characters superior manpower, Nicola makes himself invaluable are just playing gangster, much like all of the other to the very men he hates, and ends up reaping the adult criminals who don’t treat them as if they are sefinancial benefits needed to give his family a more rious threats. Nicola proves just how wrong they are comfortable life. But professional allegiances in Pira- when he dons women’s clothes and makeup to pull nhas are about as pliable as the wind. Most of Nicola’s off a brazen assassination.

Gripping and sobering, Piranhas (opening Friday, bosses don’t see the deceptions coming because they are charmed by his radiant smile and charisma (Di Aug. 9) examines how violent turnover morphs into a natural extension of our base desires for wealth Napoli has a certain Tom Brady quality).

Giovannesi deconstructs the definitive notions of and respect. It’s a complicated connection that many Italian gangster hierarchies by placing a lethal child gangster films conveniently ignore.

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enomous snakes are the literal manifestation of toxic blind faith in the morose new indie drama Them That Follow. Set deep in Appalachia, an isolated sect of Pentecostals, led by pastor Lemuel (Walton Goggins), handle poisonous serpents to prove their worth to God. But going by the number of potentially deadly bites that have stricken the community lately, their prayers are falling on deaf ears.

Operating under the auspices of dramatic seriousness, co-directors Britt Poulton and Daniel Savage drain all color from their images (seemingly a requirement for indie films these days). Life on this mountain is drab and dour so there’s no room for funny business.

Somebody should have told that to Lemuel’s daughter Mara (Alice Englert), who had the audacity of thinking she could have a happy life with non-believer Augie (Thomas Mann).

There’s a lot of talk about cleansing and purifying the soul, mostly from hypocrites who’ve convinced the flock to unwittingly trust their judgment. Hope (Olivia Colman), one of the elder statesman and trusted confidants in the sect, seems genuinely caught in the middle of this crushing ideological conundrum.

As a mosaic of personal torment, Them That Follow aligns itself most with Mara, who’s becoming more stressed by the day trying to keep her unplanned pregnancy a secret. The gears of fate have other plans, though, and much of the film haphazardly attempts to create tension through hushed confessions and betrayals.

Kaityln Dever (coming off a star-making turn in Book Smart) stands on the sideline as Mara’s friend Dilly, who watches helplessly as a showdown with the church serpent becomes more imminent.

Them That Follow has a great cast but doesn’t know how to

utilize any of their talents. The film is just another in a long line of overwrought southern gothics that the Sundance Film Festival crowd seem to love so much.

—Glenn Heath Jr.

OPENING Brian Banks: This drama follows the court case involving a wrongly accused football player who fights to clear his name years after being convicted.

Opens Friday, Aug. 9, in wide release.

Dora and the Lost City of Gold: The popular animated kid explorer gets the live action treatment in a quest to save her parents and discover the secret Lost City of Gold. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, in wide release.

Piranhas: Set in modern Naples, this Italian gangster film follows a group of teenagers who rise up the ranks of local criminal syndicates. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, at the Landmark Ken Cinema.

Scary Stories to Tell in the Dark: Based on the popular book series, this horror film deals with a menacing presence in a small town fueled by the stories in an old book. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, in wide release.

Tel Aviv on Fire: This comedy romance looks at a Palestinian man who becomes a writer on a popular soap opera after a chance meeting with an Israeli soldier.

Opens Friday, Aug. 9, at Landmark Hillcrest Cinemas.

Them That Follow: A puritanical preacher’s daughter has a secret that upends an isolated sect of Pentecostals who worship serpents in the Appalachian Mountains. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, at Angelika Film Centers Carmel Mountain.

The Art of Racing in the Rain: A Formula One racer and his beloved golden retriever navigate the tricky obstacles of life in this modern melodrama. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, in wide release.

The Kitchen: Three working class women living in 1970s Hell’s Kitchen decide to keep up their husband’s criminal activities after the men are imprisoned. Opens Friday, Aug. 9, in wide release.

For complete movie listings, visit Film at sdcitybeat.com.

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 25

CARLOS SANTOLALA

MUSIC

Orville Peck he false narrative of country music is falling apart.

For decades, major labels and corporate radio told us that country was a singular thing—and that this thing wasn’t for city people who loved “cool,” groundbreaking artists. As a kid growing up in the ’80s and ’90s, I thought artists like Garth Brooks and Reba McEntire made albums for my cousins in Georgia, who could better relate to down-home lyrics and twang. The only country for me was was sometimes referred to by critics as “alt-country.” Uncle Tupelo’s Jeff Tweedy looked a lot like Eddie Vedder when his group played Late Night with Conan O’Brien in 1994, and that kind of made it easier to slip in a lap-steel guitar.

But now? Things are changing. Lil Nas X’s “Old Town Road” just broke the record for longest running No. 1 song on the Billboard Top 100, blowing minds and defying stereotypes of what it means to be mainstream, black, country and gay.

Then there’s Orville Peck. Also gay. Also country.

Completely different in vibe and sound. A tall drink of water with a leather fringe mask, cowboy hat and tattoos, he gracefully straddles western tropes and gothic drama— his beautiful baritone landing somewhere between Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison and Peter Murphy. He’s yet another welcome elixir for a misunderstood genre that’s coming out in a big way.

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“I think country is finally having, not its resurgence, but almost emergence as a vibrant, diverse genre that isn’t just a straight, white man singing about his truck. It has such a huge legacy that is so much more than that,” says Peck, who is currently based in Toronto. “The bigwigs in whereverthey-may-be have really controlled ideas of who is supposed

to make it and who is supposed to listen to it… and it’s really worked. It’s created a huge stigma even among people who are quite knowledgeable about music. But I think that’s finally changing.”

Peck has always been drawn to country for “the performance, the storytelling, the flamboyance, the drama,” he says. “The idea of closed people and archetypes of manly men singing about their sorrows—those things are very cool and interesting.”

Aesthetically, Peck sees it as a straight line to punk—the music he cut his teeth on as a young drummer.

“People think of punk as not caring and very nonchalant, but there’s a lot of effort that goes into what are essentially costumes and stage names,” he says, adding that country legend Porter Wagoner was very punk in his own way. “He has a song that is literally just about what you would do if Jesus Christ came and knocked on your door as a visitor at your house, but he sang these kinds of songs wearing rhinestone-bedazzled pink suits with crazy images on them.

I mean, that juxtaposition is so appealing.”

That same juxtapostion can also be very freeing. While punk gave Peck a great aggression outlet, he didn’t open up until he went country. It forced him to get personal after years of covering up his feelings.

“I’m not too different from Merle Haggard or Johnny Cash—these men who are painstakingly trying to squeeze out their emotions,” he says. “Punk was the doorway that gave me the confidence many years later to essentially feel very naked.”

Peck doesn’t hold back on Pony, a collection of latenight desert songs that brings figures from his rearview into sharp focus: a boxer, a queen of the radio, men who call him pretty—people who left indelible marks on the selfproclaimed drifter.

“From the way that we said goodbye / I knew I’d never see you again,” he cries to a lover on “Winds Change,” as if he’s just about to ride off into the sunset.

Another standout, “Hope to Die” reaches a dramatic crescendo at the 3:28 mark that conjures Whitney Houston’s “I Will Always Love You,” a fiery torch song written by Dolly Parton as a farewell to her manager Porter Wagoner. “Turn to Hate” starts a bit like The Church’s “Under the Milky Way,” with soft guitar giving way to haunting vocals that drip all over a melody that expands and intensifies without losing its cool. Peck’s song also has more drawl and a literal yee-haw.

While plenty of Pony’s tracks summon traditional country signifiers—lap steel, slide guitar, two-step rhythms, train beat drums, jaunty whistling and even a bit of banjo—Peck intentionally wrapped the album in ’80s goth and new-wave production reminiscent of Joy Division and… Reba McEntire?

“Maybe people would have a hard time connecting those two bands but I challenge people to go listen to early Reba tracks,” Peck says. “I mean, the production is kind of dark and synthy. It’s not far off!”

Ah yes, Reba. Maybe it’s time to revisit my old biases and listen with fresh ears. After all, plenty of people got turned on to Peck without dismissing him as either “too country” or “not country enough.” Pony hooked them in and his live shows are proof of his broad appeal.

“There’s something pretty special about being in a room where the front row is a drag queen next to a punk rocker next to a regular Joe couple next to an 80-year-old man in a Hank Williams shirt,” he says. “And they are all singing along to a song by a gay, masked cowboy singing about hustlers in the desert. It surprises me every day the reach it seems to have to people from every literal walk of life. I think it’s an exciting time in music, especially in country music.”

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 27

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AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 29

BY RYAN BRADFORD

MUSIC

NOTES FROM THE SMOKING PATIO

THE

SPOTLIGHT SHERVIN LAINEZ

LOCALS ONLY

Sant goes onto say that the other defining moment was after graduating from Mission Bay High School [in San Diego]. lub nights come and go, but Whistle Stop Bar (2236 Fern “My girlfriend and I went back to England to visit and drive St., whistlestopbar.com) in South Park is getting ready around my homeland,” he continues. “I had gotten us tickets to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its Britpop night, to see Oasis at the Leeds Irish Centre, just two weeks before F#!kin’ in the Bushes, on Friday, Aug. 16. The DJ behind the Definitely Maybe, their debut LP, came out. Five Mancs [a colevent, Daniel Sant, can hardly beALISSA MAXWELL loquialism referring to people from lieve it’s been that long since he Manchester, England] oozing pure pushed for a monthly dance party attitude, playing immense tunes… featuring classic Britpop. songs that would become the foundaIn the heyday of the “Madchestion of Britpop, at the right moment ter” scene, Daniel Sant was just a in my life, meant this genre would alteenager, sneaking out to the bars ways matter to me.” of English town Warrington, in Sant doesn’t live in San Diego anyhopes of satisfying his thirst for new more, but he says his life would not be bands. Now a longtime ex-pat in whole without F#!kin’ in the Bushes, California, he still remembers when which is why, every month, he flies he heard Britpop for the first time from Oakland to play his favorite Britand says it altered his perception of ish bangers alongside DJ Rob Moran. music forever.

As new generations of Britpop “One of the two defining moenthusiasts come and go, and reguRob Moran and Daniel Sant ments that solidified this genre lars continue to dance to the rhythm being my life’s blood was seeing The Stone Roses in 1989 at of Pulp, Blur and Oasis, Sant says seeing new faces and saying Legends in Warrington,” Sant says. “My stepdad was a bouncer hello to old regulars is what matters most. at a bar in town, and his friend was on the door at Legends. He “A monthly night means people can sometimes say, ‘Oh, I’ll arranged for a friend and I to sit off to the side with lemonade just go next month,’” Sant says. “It’s important for us to transand crisps and watch the best band in the world, at the height mit how appreciative we are to the people that come out for our of their powers, absolutely destroy the place.” night every month.”

C

—Ombretta Di Dio

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wo new documentary screenings from local artists are also working on a documentary and will be previewing the happening in August, both of which deal with music and still untitled project at a screening event and concert at 8 p.m. at Art on Third (269 Third Ave.) in Chula Vista. They will the international community.

First, Landmark’s Ken Cinema (4061 Adams Ave.) will host also be premiering a new music video for the song, “Chorizo & Waffles,” the band’s first collaboration a one-night-only screening of Japanoise, COURTESY OF MARTIN BRANDO VILLARREAL with an outside producer. Tulengua mema years-in-the-making film that explores ber Alan Lilienthal says the documentary Tokyo’s underground music scene and inwill focus on “what it means to be a crosscludes performances and interviews from border band.” notable acts such as Shonen Knife, The “We anticipate dropping it in short in5,6,7,8’s, Tom & Bootboys, Melt-Banana stallments over the next year as we collect and more. Former San Diegan Martin Branfootage for the full length,” says Lilienthal. do Villarreal will be coming back to San Di“To be totally honest, it’s kind of come ego to screen the film, which has only been into fruition organically and we’re not too screened one other time in Tokyo.

Villareal, who now lives in Tokyo, says Japanoise set on the specifics of the whole endeavor.

We’re kind of just going with it but wanted the film took five years to complete and takes a hard look at “Tokyo’s underground music subculture.” to show some of the edited footage since we’re already doing the music video release screening.”

It screens Thursday, Aug. 15 at 8 p.m.

Tijuana- and San Diego-based hip-hop trio Tulengua is

30 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

—Seth Combs

Gin Blossoms

I

’m going to come out and say it: “Hey Jealousy” is the greatest song of the ’90s.

“But, but, but,” you might be saying. “Wh-whwhat about any song from OK Computer?”

But you’re wrong. While songs like “Karma Police” and “Paranoid Android” did uncannily predict the looming anxiety that infiltrated art in the 2000s, Radiohead never evoked the giddy, sordid joys conveyed in “Hey Jealousy.” It’s three minutes of pop perfection that include getting drunk, falling in and out of love and, of course, leading cops on a car chase.

Simultaneously regretful, pathetic, optimistic and joyful, the song is a perfect encapsulation of youth. It feels immediate, but also timeless in a way that few other songs do.

“Hey Jealousy” set the bar insanely high, but the Gin Blossoms’ entire catalog is filled with similarly forlorn and earnest rock songs. “Found Out About You” is another favorite of mine, and even though I cringe at almost everything related to the film Empire Records (It’s. Not. Good.), the Blossoms’ hit from that soundtrack, “Til I Hear It From You,” may as well be part of my DNA based on how many times I heard it on the radio in the ‘90s.

Co-headlining is Collective Soul, a band that I blame for bringing Christianity into alternative music. Without them, we probably wouldn’t have Creed, and we’d all be happier. However, there is that part on their 1994 hit “Shine” where the music drops out and the singer says, “Yeah.”

That part always makes me laugh.

Gin Blossoms and Collective Soul play Wednesday, Aug. 14 at Humphreys by the Bay.

@SDCITYBEAT

MUSIC

BY CITYBEAT STAFF

IF I WERE U Our picks for the week’s top shows

KATHRYN VETTER MILLER

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 7

PLAN A: Weyes Blood, Dustin Wong @ The Irenic. Look, it’s a little early to be declaring “Album of the Year,” but our editor says he’s yet to hear anything better this year than Weyes Blood’s (real name: Natalie Mering) Titanic Rising. It’s a haunting collection of ballads that will make listeners invest in a fainting chair. PLAN B: blink-182, Lil Wayne, Neck Deep @ North Island Credit Union Amphitheatre. Look, who knows if two-thirds of blink is gonna be any good or if Lil Wayne can still bring it live, but we think it’s worth the risk just to chant “a milli, a milli, a milli” over and over into the Chula Vista sky. BACKUP PLAN: Con·tact, Neutral Shirt, Memory Leak, KAN-KAN @ The Tower Bar.

THURSDAY, AUG. 8

PLAN A: Gauche @ Whistle Stop. When it comes to Washington, D.C., post-punk band Gauche, we get the comparisons to bands such as X-Ray Spex, what with those killer sax lines and all. We’d liken them more to early B-52’s—fun and danceable—but filled with a pissy punk-rock spirit. PLAN B: Beach Bums, Bad Kids, Sustivity @ Soda Bar. With a name like Beach Bums, it’d be tempting to think this L.A. band was just playing lo-fi stoner-rock. They do, but they also pepper in weird synth interludes, hiphop and even some ’80s metal. It’s indecisive, but it’s cool. BACKUP PLAN: Carly Rae Jepsen and Phoebe Ryan @ Humphreys Concerts By the Bay.

FRIDAY, AUG. 9

PLAN A: ‘Redwoods Revue’ w/ Jake Najor & the Moment of Truth, Dani Bell and the Tarantist, The Midnight Pine, Birdy Bardot, Cardinal Moon @ The Casbah. A great night of local music from the best collective of musicians in the city. Not a bad band on the whole bill. PLAN B: Sidney Gish, Julia Shapiro, The Licks @ Che Café Collective. Boston’s Sidney Gish mixes folk and indie-pop for some interesting results.

Still, the real highlight for us is the inclusion of Julia Shapiro from the band Chastity Belt, who just released an excellent solo record (Perfect Vision) filled with haunting, lofi ballads. BACKUP PLAN: Ruby Haunt, Los Shadows, Glass Spells @ Soda Bar.

SATURDAY, AUG. 10

PLAN A: Burmese, Solo Organ, Necking, Senji @ The FRONT Arte Cultura.

@SDCITYBEAT

Weyes Blood Bay area noise-punks Burmese have been around in some form or another since the late ’90s and still make a jarring, often disturbing noise. This show won’t be for everyone, but it will be memorable. BACKUP PLAN: Lost Dog Street Band, Matt Heckler @ The Casbah.

SUNDAY, AUG. 11

PLAN A: Qui, Planet B, Inus, Hong Kong Fuck You @ The Casbah. Another show for the weirdos out there. L.A. band Qui have been playing bizarre and experimental noise-rock for well over a decade, while Planet B and Inus both feature members of local noise legends The Locust. So bring an open mind and maybe some ear plugs as well. BACKUP PLAN: Nas, Amari White @ Harrah’s Resort Southern California.

MONDAY, AUG. 12

PLAN A: Mallrat @ Music Box. Those in need of some seriously unshakeable earcandy should listen to Mallrat’s viral hit “Groceries” ASAP. The 20-year-old Australian musician (born Grace Shaw) is known for her clever mix of pop and hip-hop and is poised to breakout big this year, so this might be the last time to see her in such an intimate setting. BACKUP PLAN: Rorre, Feelers, Almost Monday @ The Casbah.

TUESDAY, AUG. 13

PLAN A: Touché Amoré, Jeromes Dream, Dangers @ Che Café Collective. Given the recent revival of “emo” music, we’re not sure why L.A.’s Touché Amoré aren’t huge. Still, their “uniquely melodic and intense form of post-hardcore,” as our former music editor put it, has earned them a devoted following.

[This show sold out as we went to press, so readers should move on to the backup plan.]

BACKUP PLAN: Inure, Machine Politik, The Tale @ The Casbah.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 31

MUSIC

CONCERTS HOT! NEW! FRESH!

Thief (SPACE, 8/18), Serial Hawk (SPACE, 9/5), Jason Nash (Observatory, 9/7), Tassels & Tails (Brick by Brick, 9/7), Black Pool (HOB, 9/7), DAISY (Soda Bar, 9/11), Surefire Soul Ensemble (Casbah, 9/14), Junior Brown (Casbah, 9/14), Jesse Marchant (Soda Bar, 9/17), Night Moves (Soda Bar, 9/22), Jake Peavy (BUT, 9/22), Tank & the Bangas (Music Box, 10/1), Okilly Dokilyy (Soda Bar, 10/4), The Parlor Mob (Casbah, 10/9), Lana Del Rey (Cal Coast Credit Union Open Air Theatre, 10/11), Kllo (Soda Bar, 10/11), Mothership (Brick by Brick, 10/12), Alien Weaponry (Soda Bar, 10/19), The Story So Far (Observatory, 10/24), The Spazmatics (BUT, 11/2), Matt Heckler (Soda Bar, 11/3), Guerilla Toss (Casbah, 11/3), The Pine Mountain Logs (BUT, 11/8), Baby Bushka (Casbah, 11/9), Kilo (Soda Bar, 11/11), TAUK (BUT, 11/13), The Maine (Observatory, 11/19), Pinback (BUT, 11/23), Wayward Sons (BUT, 11/30), Judge & Cro-Mags (The Irenic, 12/5), Marco Benevento (Casbah, 12/5), Mandolin Orange (Observatory, 1/10).

ALL SOLD OUT Death Cab For Cutie (Observatory, 8/910), Touché Amoré (Ché Café Collective, 8/13), Orville Peck (Casbah, 8/15), Kyle Kinane (Casbah, 8/18), David Grisman (BUT, 8/29), Queen Nation (BUT, 8/30), Jinjer (Brick by Brick, 9/11), Millencolin (Brick by Brick, 9/13), Phora (The Irenic, 9/13), Still Woozy (Music Box, 9/30), The Marshall Tucker Band (BUT, 9/12),

Oliver Tree (Observatory, 9/18), Elder Island (Casbah, 9/21), Girl in Red (House Of Blues, 9/27), MXMTOON (HOB, 10/2), Obituary (Brick by Brick, 10/3), Marc Broussard (BUT, 10/5), Jonas Brothers (Pechanga Arena, 10/7), Morcheeba (BUT, 10/13), Tyler Childers (Observatory, 10/15), Black Pumas (Soda Bar, 10/25), Two Door Cinema Club (Observatory, 11/8), Built To Spill (Casbah, 11/14), Adam Carolla (BUT, 12/1), Stick Figure (BUT, 12/27-28).

CANCELLED Dick Dale’s Misirlou (BUT, 12/19),

GET YER TICKETS Kacey Musgraves Cal Coast Credit Union Open Air Theatre, 8/27), Jason Nash (Observatory, 9/7), Andy Grammer (HOB, 9/2), Carrie Underwood (Pechanga Arena, 9/10), Tony Bennett (San Diego Civic Theatre, 9/14), Chance the Rapper (Pechanga Arena, 9/18), Yungblud (Observatory, 9/19), Cigarettes After Sex (Observatory, 10/5), Lana Del Rey (Cal Coast Credit Union Open Air Theatre, 10/11), The Japanese House (Observatory, 10/11), The Who (Viejas Arena, 10/16), Judah & The Lion (Observatory, 10/17), Senses Fail (HOB, 10/19), Hozier (Cal Coast Credit Union Open Air Theatre, 10/26), Helmet (BUT, 11/7), The Maine (Observatory, 11/19), King Princess (Observatory, 1/28).

AUGUST WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 7 The Original Wailers at Belly Up Tavern. Hannah Wicklund & The Step-

32 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

pin Stones at The Casbah. Blink-182, Lil Wayne at North Island Credit Union Amphitheatre. Frank Iero & The Future Violents at House of Blue. Weyes Blood at The Irenic. No Strings Attached ay Music Box. The Stalins of Sound at Soda Bar.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 8 The Surfrajettes at The Casbah. Leonid & Friends at Belly Up Tavern. Beach Bums at Soda Bar. 3rd Ear Experience at Brick by Brick.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 9 Chris Young at North Island Credit Union Amphitheatre. Master at Brick by Brick.

Sidney Gish at Ché Café Collective. The Paladins at Belly Up Tavern. Ruby Haunt at Soda Bar. The Soft White Sixties at The Merrow.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 10 Lost Dog Street Band at The Casbah. The Como La Flor Band at Music Box. One Drop at Belly Up Tavern. The Quakes at Soda Bar. Damage Inc. at House Of Blues.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 11 Prince Daddy & The Hyena at House Of Blues. Billy Bob Thornton & The Boxmasters at Belly Up Tavern. Planet B at The Casbah. Pinkeye at Soda Bar.

MONDAY, AUGUST 12 Elway at Soda Bar. Rorre at The Casbah.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 13 Lucifer at Brick by Brick. Inure at The Casbah. Subspecies at Soda Bar.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 14 Planet Booty at Soda Bar. Devotchka at Music Box. The Routine at The Casbah.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 15 The Fabulous Thunderbirds at Belly Up Tavern. Mike Love at Music Box. Doom Bloom at Soda Bar. Friday, August 16 Summer Salt at House Of Blues. The Dollop at Observatory North Park. The Devastators at Belly Up Tavern. Ringworm at Soda Bar. Electric Mud at Music Box.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 17 Khofa at House of Blues. The Sleepwalkers at Soda Bar. The Bomboras at The Casbah. SD City Soul Club at The Merrow.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 18 Hawthorne Heights at The Irenic. Flynt Flossy at Soda Bar. Thief at SPACE.

MONDAY, AUGUST 19 Bad Books at The Irenic. Rotting Christ at Brick by Brick. Steve Earle & The Dukes at Dezorah at Soda Bar. Boris at The Casbah.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 20 Justin Hayward at Belly Up Tavern. Kadavar at Brick by Brick. Generationals at The Casbah. Gypsy Temple at Soda Bar.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 21 Snail Mail at The Irenic. Blackfoot Gypsies at The Casbah. Jack Symes at Soda Bar.

rCLUBSr

710 Beach Club, 710 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach. Wed: Open Mic. Fri: Dubbest, Prime Livity, Eureka Sound. Sat: Gambiarra, Raggabond, DJ Maju Feder. Tue: Something Contagious, Semi-Decent.

Air Conditioned Lounge, 4673 30th St., Normal Heights. Wed: ‘#HipHopWeds’.

Thu: ‘CoolLikeDat’. Fri: ‘House Music Fridays’. Sat: ‘Juicy’. Sun: ‘Phantasy Lounge’. Mon: ‘Organized Grime’. Tue: DJ Staci.

American Comedy Co., 818 B Sixth Ave., Downtown. Thu: Heavy Sets. Fri: Yannis Pappas. Sat: Yannis Pappas. Tue: Open Mic. The Bancroft, 9143 Campo Road, Spring Valley. Wed: Karaoke. Thu: Stone Deaf, Mezzoa, Nebula Drag. Sat: Kisstroyer.

Sun: At War, Sacred Origin, The Brethren 666, Mechanist. Mon: Trivia. Tue: Karaoke.

Bang Bang, 526 Market St., Downtown.

Sat: Tube & Berger, Alex Wax. Sun: Cherokee, Boys Don’t Disco.

Bar Pink, 3829 30th St., North Park. Wed: Brite On, The Walter Brothers. Thu: Trivia.

Fri: Spice Pistols, Fictitious Dishes. Sat: Zamman, Bachata Surf, Los Pinches Pinches. Sun: ‘Rat Sabbath’. Mon: Braggers, Bruin. Tue: DJ Heather Hardcore.

Beaumont’s, 5665 La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla. Thu: Mike Myrdal. Fri: Gusto. Sat: Whiskey Ridge.

Belly Up Tavern, 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach. Wed: The Original Wailers,

MUSIC CONTINUED ON PAGE 33

@SDCITYBEAT

BY CHRISTIN BAILEY

MUSIC MUSIC CONTINUED FROM PAGE 32 Judah Eskender Tafari, The Originators.

Thu: Leonid & Friends. Fri: The Paladins, The Tighten Ups. Sat: One Drop, Hazmatt, Sensi Trails. Sun: Billy Bob Thorton & The Boxmasters, Sarah Rogo.

Blonde, 1808 W. Washington St., Mission Hills. Wed: ‘Dance Klassique’. Thu: ‘Disco Goth Nite’. Fri: ‘We Are Yr Friends’. Sun: ‘Restraint Fantasy Fetish Party’. Mon: ‘Blue Monday’.

Boar Cross’n, 390 Grand Ave., Carlsbad.

Sat: Big Dude.

Brick by Brick, 1130 Buenos Ave., Bay Park. Thu: 3rd Ear Experience, Waxy. Fri: Master, Claustrofobia, Dusk, Beekeeper, Osmium. Sat: Behold...The Arctopus, Imperial Triumphant, Cerculean. Tue: Lucifer, Haunt.

The Casbah, 2501 Kettner Blvd., Midtown. Wed: Hannah Wicklund & The Steppin Stones, Veronica May Band.

Thu: The Sufrajettes, Jason Lee & the Riptides, Babydoll Warriors, The Greasy Gills. Fri: Jake Najor & the Moment of Truth, Dani Bell & The Tarantist, The Midnight Pine, Birdy Bardot, Cardinal Moon.

Sat: Lost Dog Street Band, Matt Heckler. Sun: Qui, Panet B, Inus, Hong Kong Fuck You. Mon: Rorre, Feelers, Almost Monday. Tue: Inure, Machine Politik, The Tale.

Che Cafe, 1000 Scholars Drive S, La Jolla. Wed: Insomnia Beach Club, SashaCourtney, In Blue, Dylan Pliz. Fri: Sidney Gish, Julia Shapiro, The Licks. Sat: Ecostrike, Magnitude, Envision, Construct.

Sun: Backtrack, King Nine, Minus, Somerset Thrower, Exile. Tue: Touché Amoré, Jeromes Dream, Dangers.

@SDCITYBEAT

Dizzy’s, 4275 Mission Bay Drive, Bay Park. Fri: The James Day & Tiger Diep Meet Quintet. Sat: Julian Roel 4tet.

F6ix, 526 F St., Downtown. Sat: Wiz Khalifa, Chevy Woods. Sun: ‘Reggae Sundays’.

Fluxx, 500 Fourth Ave., Downtown. Fri: DJ Brees. Sat: DJ Advance.

The Holding Company, 5046 Newport Ave. Wed: Thomas Ian Nicholas, Soulside Players, Luxury Hotline. Thu: Long Lost Suns, Puerto, DJ Binx, OREN. Fri: Wise Monkey Orchestra, Mango Habanero, OREN. Sat: Jagerbombs ‘90s vs Stay Sweet ‘80s. Sun: ‘Psychadelic Sundays’ w/ Fish & the Seaweeds. Mon: Karaoke.

Tue: ‘Reggae Tuesdaze’ w/ Jehua, Synrgy, DJ Carlos Culture.

House of Blues, 1055 Fifth Ave., Downtown. Wed: Frank Iero & the Future Violents. Thu: Graham Gillot Band. Fri: Emo Night Brooklyn. Sat: Damage Inc. Sun: Demon Hunter. Tue: Robin Kenkel.

Humphreys Backstage, 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island. Wed: Come Together. Thu: Nathan James. Fri: Funks Most Wanted. Sat: Beta Maxx. Sun: Psydecar. Mon: Fuzzy Rankins. Tue: Mercedes Moore.

The Irenic, 3090 Polk Ave., North Park.

Wed: Weyes Blood.

Kava Lounge, 2812 Kettner Blvd., Midtown. Fri: ‘Pleasure’. Sat: ‘Umbrella Nights’. Sun: Indian.K & Nemy, Evolve One, Lorde SMIS, Pottiemouth, TEC. Kensington Club, 4079 Adams Ave., Kensington. Thu: Metal Yoga. Fri: Flower Animals, Black Monroe.

MUSIC CONTINUED ON PAGE 34

ASTROLOGICALLY UNSOUND Weekly forecasts from the so-called universe ARIES (March 21 - April 19): All things are impermanent, though I’m not sure what kind of comfort it will be to hear that you, as well as everyone you’ve ever met, will be dead in 100 years.

LIBRA (September 23 - October 22): “Fake it ’til you make it” can be a useful aphorism up until the point that you realize you just performed an emergency triple bypass surgery on somebody’s… spleen?

TAURUS (April 20 - May 20): If you let fear prevent you from trying new things, then you will never get better at anything.

Then you’ll have to focus on the things you’re already pretty good at. Actually, that sounds fine. Do that.

SCORPIO (October 23 - November 21): If you need to cry in public then at least go to the bathroom stall or the aisle at Rite-Aid where they sell all the Made-for-TV products. Or any Panda Express franchise.

GEMINI (May 21 - June 20): This week, like the chicken crossing the road, your motives will be endlessly speculated over. And like the chicken, it’s all about just getting to the other side.

CANCER (June 21 - July 22): We should always strive to be useful to others, and to be kind to children and the elderly.

Oh, and wearing full Juggalo makeup to thwart facial recognition technology.

LEO (July 23 - August 22): If you can’t have enough confidence in your work that it speaks for itself, then at least have enough foolhardy bravado to bully people into pretending they “get it.”

VIRGO (August 23 - September 22): Look on the bright side: A group of teenagers at the mall will be forever bonded over that minor but devastating public humiliation you endured in the parking garage!

SAGITTARIUS (November 22 December 21): If this were a musical, now would be the part where you would sing a cloying breakaway number about your private longings and aspirations.

CAPRICORN (December 22 January 19): Let go of the past; let it slip out of your mind like water through a sieve, and wake up with no memory of your name and only a mysterious microchip implant to guide you.

AQUARIUS (January 20 - February 18): Be purposeful in your actions this week. Next week you can go back to doing any old thing for who knows what reason.

PISCES (February 19 - March 20): It is great to educate yourself, but if you are not careful about your sources, you will start believing that everything in human history is the result of extraterrestrial activity.

Astrologically Unsound appears every week. Follow Christin Bailey on Twitter at @hexprax.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 33

MUSIC MUSIC CONTINUED FROM PAGE 33 Lestat’s Coffee House, 3343 Adams Ave., Normal Heights. Fri: Piatt Pund, Sea Monks. Sat: Lonely Ghosts. Mon: Open Mic. Tue: Comedy Night.

Mc P’s Irish Pub, 1107 Orange Ave., Coronado. Wed: JG. Thu: Josie Day. Fri: Ron’s Garage. Sat: Misty & the Moby.

Sun: JG. Mon: JG. Tue: 3 Guys Will Move U. Martinis Above Fourth, 3940 Fourth Ave., Hillcrest. Wed: Carol Curtis. Thu: Derek Klena. Fri: Sophia Alone. Sat: Ryan Raftery. Sun: Keep it on the DL. Mon: Carol Curtis. Tue: Danielle Forsgren & Joe Savant, Rayme Sciaroni.

Parq, 615 Broadway, Downtown. Fri: Chachi. Sat: 2Chainz.

Pour House, 1903 S. Coast Highway, Oceanside. Thu: Franks & Deans, Generator, Motorbabe.

Proud Mary’s, 5550 Kearny Mesa Road, Kearny Mesa. Wed: Coverdale & Blinn.

Thu: Tomcat Courtney. Fri: Adrianna Marie. Sat: John January, Linda Berry.

The Rail, 3796 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest. Thu: ‘Country Dance’. Sat: ‘Sabados en Fuego’. Sun: ‘Techniche’.

The Merrow, 1271 University Ave., Hillcrest. Wed: Colin Jones, Julianna Zachariou. Thu: ‘Infinity’. Fri: ‘Club Sabbat’. Sat: Showstoppers Talent Contest.

Rich’s, 1051 University Ave., Hillcrest.

Wed: ‘Mischief w/ Bianca’. Thu: ‘#LEZ + House Music’. Fri: ‘Electro-POP!’. Sat: ‘Voltage’. Sun: ‘Stripper Circus’.

Mother’s Saloon, 2228 Bacon St., Ocean Beach. Tue: Trivia.

Riviera Supper Club, 7777 University Ave., La Mesa. Wed: ‘Boss Jazz’. Thu: Rebekkah Darling. Fri: Good Vibes. Sat: Chickenbone Slim & the Biscuits. Tue: ‘The Works Jam’.

Mr. Peabody’s, 136 Encinitas Blvd., Encinitas. Thu: James Allen Band. Fri: Russ Ramo Trio. Sat: Jerome Dawson & Wazabe Blue. Sun: Jazz Jam. Mon: Open Mic. Tue: Karaoke.

Music Box, 1337 India St., Little Italy.

Wed: No Strings Attached. Thu: No Strings Attached (sold out). Fri: El Haragan y Compania, Rebel Cats. Sat: The Como La Flor Band. Mon: Mallrat.

The Office, 3936 30th St., North Park.

Thu: ‘Dig Deepers’. Fri: ‘Factory’. Sat: ‘Strictly Business’. Mon: ‘Motown on Mondays’.

OMNIA Nightclub, 454 Sixth Ave., Downtown. Thu: ‘Undone on Thursday’. Fri: Ookay. Sat: Makj.

34 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · AUGUST 7, 2019

Panama 66, 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park.

Wed: ‘The Wednesday Jam Session’.

Thu: Sahara Grimm. Fri: Mad Hat Hucksters. Sat: Clinton Davis Trio. Sun: ‘Funk Jam’.

Rosie O’Gradys, 3402 Adams Ave., Normal Heights. Wed: Chloe Lou & Davies.

Thu: The Brothers Burns, DJ Redlite. Fri: Becca Jay Band. Sat: Reverie Noise.

Mon: ‘Jazz Jam’ w/ Louis V. Tue: ‘Adams Gone Funky’.

Soda Bar, 3615 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights. Wed: Thu: Fri: Sat: Sun: Mon: Tue: SPACE, 3519 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights.

Thu: Trivia. Fri: ‘BrokenBeat’.

Spin, 2028 Hancock St., Midtown. Sat: Tara Brooks.

Sycamore Den, 3391 Adams Ave., Nor-

mal Heights. Wed: Paul Gregg. Sun: Clinton Davis. Tue: Trivia.

Til-Two Club, 4746 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights. Wed: DJ Harry. Fri: Infinity Eyes, Service Interruption, Black Market Brigade. Sat: Defy the Tyrants, Mandala, Alpha Apex. Sun: ‘Pants Karaoke!’. Mon: ‘Open DJ Night’.

Tin Roof, 401 G St., Downtown. Wed: Chad & Rosie. Thu: Corey Gray & Jake Coco. Fri: Coriander. Sat: Coriander.

Sun: Karaoke. Mon: Lucky Devils Band.

Tue: Mitch Clark.

Tio Leo’s, 5302 Napa St., Bay Park. Wed: The Jazz Pocket Swing. Thu: Gino and the Lone Gunmen. Fri: The Siers Brothers.

Sat: Full Strength Funk Band. Sun: ‘International Blues Challenge’. Mon: ‘Sexy Salsa & Sensual Bachata’. Tue: Big Time Operator Orchestra.

Tower Bar, 4757 University Ave., City Heights. Wed: Good Time Girl, Neutral Shirt, Flanimals, CON•TACT. Fri: Supersonic Dragon Wagon, Red Wizard, Psylow.

Sat: Japanese Baby, Belligerent Ghouls.

Sun: Gentroside, Kids N Propane, Chonkysponklez.

U-31, 3112 University Ave., North Park.

Thu: ‘BoomBox Thursdays’. Fri: DJ Freeman. Sat: DJ Bacon Bits. Sun: Zamboomba, The Resinators, Ras Hi-C. Mon: ‘#31 Flavors’.

Whistle Stop, 2236 Fern St., South Park.

Wed: ‘Modern R&B/Hip-Hop Video Night’.

Winstons, 1921 Bacon St., Ocean Beach.

Wed: ‘Club Kingston’. Thu: Swells, Dread Kennedy, KL Noise Makers. Fri: King Schascha, C-Money, Sandollar, Strictly Skunk, DJ Unite. Sat: Brothers Gow, Eminence Ensemble. Sun: Karaoke. Mon: Electric Waste Band. Tue: DJ Williams.

@SDCITYBEAT

BY JACKIE BRYANT

IN THE BACK

CANNABITCH A case of the munchies

W

hen I’m not smoking weed and writing about it, I’m eating food and writing about it. So the fact that I’ve had this column for almost a full year and haven’t yet written about munchies is, frankly, unacceptable. That changes now!

Any dyed-in-the-wool stoner knows that access to good food while stoned is not only essential, it’s practically a birthright. I know several industrious stoners that prepare ahead of time, either making delicious dishes they know they’ll want to chow down on later or stocking their kitchen with snacks and ingredients they love.

Loyal readers of this column will remember that I’m lazy, so the former option really isn’t my bag. Also, I don’t snack—I meal— so, really, this is a guide of where to eat in San Diego while high.

I live in OB, so my number one go-to and most dirtbag indulgence is Roberto’s Taco Shop (4770 Voltaire St., robertostacoshop.menutoeat.com), which delivers via all the apps and is blessedly open until 3 a.m. Rather than get a California burrito, I always spring for the shredded beef hard

@SDCITYBEAT

shell tacos. The crunch is simply more satisfying with a good buzz.

Since I tend to ingest cannabis in various forms throughout the day, another goto is Little Lion Cafe (1424 Sunset Cliffs Blvd., thelittlelioncafe.com) near Sunset Cliffs. I’m friendly with the staff, who graciously lets me modify their near-perfect Green Dream Salad. I know, I know… salads are not stoner food, but stay with me. Normally, it has kale, farro, grapes, green goddess dressing and broccoli but I add fried Jidori chicken. That way, I can pretend I’m healthy when I smoke throughout the day but also satisfy my need to indulge.

Barrio Logan staple Las Cuatro Milpas (1857 Logan Ave., las-cuatro-milpas.com) is a place I visit only when stoned, because I order so much food every time that it’s simply not possible to eat it all unless I’m high. My go-to is usually the chorizo con huevos, two hard shell tacos and a boatload of flour tortillas, all of which quickly go down the hatch after waiting in the restaurant’s exorbitant lines while patiently puffing my vape pen.

Sometimes, only fried chicken will do.

If I’m feeling bougie, I’ll head to or order from The Crack Shack in Little Italy (2266 Kettner Blvd., crackshack.com). I’ve tried

JACKIE BRYANT

Green Dream Salad almost everything on the menu, but I maintain that the Coop Deville (fried chichen, pickled Fresno chiles, lime mayo and Napa cabbage on a Brioche bun) drizzled with the Baja hot sauce is the perfect sandwich. The heat from the hot sauce and Fresno chiles, along with the acid from the slaw, perfectly cut the fat of the chicken. There’s an option to add cheese, but personally, I think that’s

unnecessary and overindulgent, even for a high person.

If I really want to get down and dirty, Louisiana Fried Chicken (2850 National Ave., Ste. 109, louisianafriedchickensd. com) in Logan Heights will do. Chicken strips and chicken and waffles combine to make the ultimate gut-busting combo ideal for not only being stoned but supremely hungover, as well.

Finally, there’s the stoner classic: Pizza. I’m originally from New York and have arcane, overbearing and definitive opinions about pizza in San Diego. When it comes to the New York-style, there are a few gems ideal for stuffing one’s face as if one were floating down the isle of Manhattan on a cloud of smoke. Pizzeria Luigi (two locations in North Park and Golden Hill, pizzerialuigi.com) and Bronx Pizza in Hillcrest (111 Washington St., bronxpizza. com) are the only acceptable New York slices in town, in my humble opinion, and of these two, I think Luigi’s is superior.

Anyone with a solid weed buzz should be able to put down two or three slices with no problem.

CannaBitch appears every week. Follow Jackie Bryant on Twitter at @jacqbryant.

AUGUST 7, 2019 · SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT · 35