Tropical Inspired Travel Magazine Issue 65 by Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

Discover the passion of art.

www.andalucia.org www.spain.info NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 541 Orchard Road Tel: 65 6 73 73 008 Fax: 65 6 73 73 173

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tropicalguide

vol. 6 issue 65

MAINFEATURES

JAKARTA

Due to it being one of the least mentioned areas of tourism, it would take most people a long, paused moment, of deep thought, to figure out [..64..]

BOUTIQUE RAFT

Humble and tranquil, located along the Kwai Noi River, the Boutique Raft Resort reveals itself gracefully through the white morning mist. [..60..]

COverwhelmed O V E RbyFaElongAandT Uexhausting R E life journey, sometimes we

are reminded to slow our steps. More often, we feel that the actual destination is not at the end of the road but at the beginning, and as we walk along the way. The recent journey Gaid P. Kornsilp made along the Mekong River in Laos proves how one can indeed enjoy life at a sluggish pace. [..38..]

TIWI DREAMING

Off the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Top Endâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of Australia an historic and isolated community displays with pride its judicious blend of traditional and modern values. [..76..] 4

“Where you’ll never forget The scenery and unspoiled nature”

Krabi Resort 232 Moo.2, Ao Nang, Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 7563 7030-5, Fax: +66 (0) 7563 7051 Bangkok Office Tel: +66 (0) 2208 9165, 2208 9710, Fax: +66 (0) 2208 9166 E-mail info@krabiresort.com, Website www.krabiresort.com

Looking f o

r paradi

se, uns p

nshine

oiled su

beach

ak e

157 Moo.2, Ao Nang, Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 7563 7048-9 Fax: +66 (0) 7563 7050 Bangkok Office Tel: +66 (0) 2208 9165, 2208 9710 Fax: +66 (0) 2208 9166 E-mail reserv@krabitimberhouse.com Website www.krabitimberhouse.com

your holiday memor able Lanta Island Beach Resort

243 Moo.3, Koh Lanta, Krabi, Tel: +66 (0) 7568 4911 Fax: +66 (0) 7568 4910 www.lantaislandbeachresort.com

tropicalguide

vol. 6 issue 65

LIFESTYLE & LIVING

Café Batavia

The first impression for anyone stepping into the early 19th century two-storey building where Café Batavia is housed, is the interior decoration [..72..]

LUANG SAY LODGE

Harmoniously nestled by the Mekong River, the Luang Say Lodge sits on four hectares of land with a traditional Laotian architectural design [..56..]

REGULARS r e g i o n a l & A R O U N D [..12..] E Y E S H O T [..14..] t r i p B U L L E T I N S [..18..] v i e w P O I N T [..28..] t r a v e l G A D G E T S [..30..] s k y B U L L E T I N S [..32..] g o u r m e t M O N T H L Y [..74..] h e a l t h B U L L E T I N S [..75..] a r t T R O P I C A L [..82..] t o p c i t y F A S T I N F O [..84..] s h o r t S T O R Y [..88..]

AWAY KOH KOOD

Away Resort, located on the west coast of Koh Kood at Klongchao Beach which is famous for its crystal clear water [..80..]

Editor’s Page

Deceleration The slowdown of the world’s economy has become a hot issue today. And tourism industries couldn’t avoid its ‘knock on’ effect. Even so, most people still travel for leisure. Traveling is a part of life, and it is essential to us just like we get quality rest from sleep. Apart from self revitalization, traveling also gives our family a chance to reunite. No matter how far away your destination is located, the inevitable journey is a good opportunity to break away from a ‘daily fight’ with all the usual dilemmas. Sometimes, you may find that slowing your step is the best way to deal with these problems. Let time solve it, and let yourself drift away somewhere else. A cruise trip provides a good chance for you to resettle your body and mind. A cruise along the slow going stream of the Mekong River, featured in this issue, is an ideal example of

how to decelerate your life, for a well deserved escape far away from the chaos of daily life. Please enjoy any of your chosen trips, and have a great time during the coming festive season. Happy New Year 2009.

Gaid Phitthayakornsilp Editorial Director

KOTAO Resort

Ko Tao Resort

19/1 Ao Chalok Ban Kao Bay, Koh Tao Suratthani 84280 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 7745 6133-4 Fax: +66 (0) 7745 6419 E-mail: info@kotaoresort.com Website: www.kotaoresort.com

UP TO

75%

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Editorial PUBLISHER Tr o p i c o f C a n c e r C o . , L t d Chairman Manachai Inkaew E d i to r i a l D i re c to r G a i d P h i tt h a ya k o r n s i l p Executive Director Kanita Srewiphat Sub-editor Valerie Webb Suwanseree, K a r l a C r i p p s , B r e t t C a u l t o n , P a u l A x f o r d , J o h n P. S t r a n d R e p o r te r & Wr i te r s J i tt p at C h a n p e t c h , Att a p o n g A k k a r a s i r a k u l Sales & Marketing Director Manachai Inkaew Marketing Assistant Nanthana Inkaew D e s i g n e r s K i tt i p o n g Wo n g w a re e A c c o u n t i n g & A d m i n i s t r a t i v e S u p e r v i s o r K a n c h a n a Ye y a p h a n

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EDITORIAL & SALES OFFICE 80/23 Soi Ladprao 23, Ladprao Road, Chankasem, Jatujak, 10900 Thailand Te l e p h o n e : + 6 6 ( 0 ) 2 5 1 3 4 9 1 3 , + 6 6 ( 0 ) 2 5 1 3 4 9 9 6 Fax: +66 (0) 2513 4674 E m a i l : t r o p i c a l @ t r o p i c o f c a n c e r. i n f o Color Separated & Print Concept Print Ltd. Local Distributor K.K. Distributor R e g i o n a l D i s t r i b u t o r M a r k e t A s i a D i s t r i b u t o r s P T E , LT D S i n g a p o r e A d v e r t i s i n g E n q u i r i e s m a r k e t i n g @ t r o p i c o f c a n c e r. i n f o , s a l e s @ t r o p i c o f c a n c e r. i n f o

R E G I O N A L A uthorized A dvertising R epresentative C o n n e x M a r k e t i n g P T E . LT D . 1 0 1 U pper E ast C o ast R o ad . S ingap o re 4 5 5 2 3 9 . Te l e p h o n e : 6 5 - 6 7 4 6 5 0 4 2 F a x : 6 5 - 6 7 4 6 7 4 7 9 Co n t a c t Pe r s o n : G e o rg e S a h a r at S o m a p a g e o rg e @ co n n e x .co.t h Mobile: 65-9162-3848 (Sin) 668 1615 2277 (Thailand)

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www.vacationasia.info your online travel reservations 10

w w w.t ro p i c a l m a g a z i n e . i n fo

Phangan Bayshore Resort

141 Moo 6, Haad Rin, Bantai, Koh Phangan, Suratthani 84280 Thailand Tel: 66 77 375224 , 375227 Fax : 66 77 375226

Email : info@phanganbayshore.com

region & around Japan

Toka Ebisu Festival 9 - 11 January 2008 www.jnto.go.jp This festival is held at many shrines, particularly in Kansai. Imamiya Ebisu Shrine is very popular, and is visited by one million people each year who come to pray for happiness and business success. This is a grand event which has continued ever since the Edo Period (17th-19th Century), when Osaka used to thrive as a commercial town. January the 10th is the main festival day, and the 9th is called the Eve of Ebisu, while the 11th is known as the “Last Helping of Luck”. The famous Ebisu Bridge over the Dotonbori River was originally built for worshippers visiting this shrine.

Singapore

Singapore Fringe Festival 2009 7 - 18 January 2009

www.singaporefringe.com The M1 Singapore Fringe Festival is an annual festival of theatre, performance arts, film, dance, visual arts, mixed media, music and forum, all of which is produced and presented by many Singaporean and international artists. Themed differently each year, the Festival aims to bring the best of contemporary, cutting-edge, and socially-engaged works to the Singapore audience. The M1 Singapore Fringe Festival is set to be a creative centre, with a twin-purpose of innovation and discussion; a platform for meaningful and provocative art to engage our increasingly connected and complex world.

Thailand

Bor Sang Umbrella and Sankampaeng Handicraft Festival 16 - 18 January 2009

www.tourismthailand.org To celebrate a successful year, the village hosts a three-day festival every January. Streets are illuminated by lanterns, while hundreds of umbrellas are hung from the rafters and beams of houses, and shops. Bands play, while villagers compete to design the year’s most attractive umbrella. Concerts, a food festival, and beauty contest, all compete for the attention of the audience, who are a mix of both tourists and residents, who gather here to celebrate Bor Sang’s innovative handicraft skills.

Indonesia

Tabuik Festival

20 – 22 January 2009 www.my-indonesia.info

Tabuik is a statue of a bouraq, or a steed with broad wings and a human head. The head is of a smiling girl, with wings and broad tales. On the back are coffins covered by a beautifully decorated umbrella. There are seven processes involved in the making of a tabuik, starting from Muharram the 1st until the10th. Muharram the 1st marks the start of the process for making a tabuik, mud is collected from the river and wrapped in a white cloth, it is placed into an earthenware pot, and the pot is kept in a lalaga (a place measuring three meters by three meters fenced all around with parupuk-small bamboo pieces).

Hong Kong

City Festival 2009 8 - 24 January 2009 www.hkfringeclub.com Formerly known as the Fringe Festival, the City Festival continues to mature as an exciting platform for local and international artists in the alternative arts scene. Events take place at a number of venues, but the focus is very much centered on the home of alternative arts in Hong Kong, the Fringe Club. The festival is a great opportunity to explore the different forms of art practiced by local residents. International artists provide a welcome input of the unusual, entertaining, and brilliant, often making their Hong Kong debut here at the City Festival.

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photo courtesy of Bureau of the Royal Household

eyeshot

Royal Cremation Bangkok â&#x20AC;&#x201C; More than 2,000 uniformed soldiers paraded alongside the royal chariot, The Phra Maha Pichai Ratcharot, carrying the urn with the remains of Her Royal Highness Princess Galyani Vadhana. The funeral procession was from the Grand Palace through the royal crematorium in Sanam Luang, passing tens of thousands of attending Thai mourners on 15 November 2008. The ceremony was performed in accordance with royal traditions observed since the reign of King Rama I of Thailand.

Crematorium Performances

photo: Attapong Akkarasirakul

Bangkok â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Traditional Khon, Thai classical masked drama, was performed on one of three stages at the ceremonial ground. This was performed to mark the end of mourning, after the royal funeral ceremony of HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana, set in accordance with the ancient customs of Thailand.

photo: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

Phujong Nayoi National Park Ubon Ratchathani – A big grasshopper poses for the camera on the natural walking trail at Phujong Nayoi National Park, Ubon Ratchathani, in northeastern Thailand.

Hua Hin Vintage Car Parade

photo: Attapong Akkarasirakul

Hua Hin – 50 vintage cars joined the parade on the 6th of December at Hua Hin’s Vintage Car Parade 2008, for a 225-kilometre journey form the Sofitel Centara Grand in Bangkok to Hua Hin. They made some stops along the way at several local attractions, before parading around Hua Hin City to the delight of the local people and tourists.

eyeshot

22nd Phuket King’s Cup Regatta Phuket – Phuket’s Andaman Sea was spruced up by many elegant sailboats at one of the most popular sailing events, Phuket King’s Cup Regatta 2008, held to celebrate the King of Thailand’s 81st Birthday, which was celebrated from the 29th of November to the 6th of December 2008. The famous sea race was joined by 97 boats from over 30 different countries around the world. This year, the King’s Cup went to an Australian boat, “Quantum Racing” (Racing) and to two Thai boats - “Royal Thai Navy 1” (IRC 2) and “SEAMICO Cedar Swan” (Multihull 1).

photo: Guy Nowell

Karon Beach

photo: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

Phuket – A group of only a few tourists walked pass the sunset scene on Karon Beach in the famous resort town of Phuket, located in the south of Thailand. Since the crisis caused by the world’s economic slowdown, and Thailand’s own troubled political circumstances. Thailand now needs to put a lot of effort into restoring the number of tourists expected during this coming high season.

AKANAK RESORT

“At Ao Tha lane”

Krabi Thailand

DELIGH PACKAGE FOR YOU AT “AKANAK RESORT” INCLUDED TWO NIGHT STAY ; DAILY BREAKFAST ; ROUND TRIP AIRPORT TRANSFER ; AND A SNORKELING TOUR. COST FROM BT 3,950 PER PERSON , THROUGH FEBRUARY 28,2009

Reservation Tel: 66 75 623 448 Baan Tha-lane , Khaothong , A , Muang Krabi , Thailand rsvn@akanakresort.com www.akanakresort.com

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Uma Paro Introduces Two New Itineraries to Its Adventure Retreat Series for 2009

Tourism Australia Launches Transformation Tourism Campaign In Hong Kong

Following the success of the inaugural Adventure Retreats in 2008, Uma Paro in Bhutan has re-introduced nine of the set date, group departure itineraries for 2009 while adding two new packages: a multi-activity adventure incorporating biking, hiking, high-altitude golf, overnight camping and whitewater rafting in August 2009, and a photographic-based adventure in November 2009. The multi-activity itinerary makes the most of Uma Paro’s spectacular pristine outdoor playground. It is designed for active thrill-seekers with a love of the outdoors. However, on most days the support vehicle is on hand to make this trip accessible to different levels of fitness while allowing individuals to do their own thing. ‘Bhutan Through a Lens’ is a unique seven-night adventure for photographers of all levels and interests in association with Philip Bowen, a 16-year Bhutan veteran, accomplished photographer and COMO Activity Director who will accompany the group on this new itinerary. Time is divided between Uma Paro and a new Uma-owned 11-bed lodge in the distinctly different Paro and Punakha valleys. The photographic element is a combination of location shoots and serendipitous meetings with friendly locals. As with these two new trips, all eleven of the Adventure Retreat itineraries give guests unparalleled access to this extraordinary Himalayan kingdom’s rural, Buddhist soul. The trips are for single travellers, couples and exclusive parties of three people or more, allowing access to remote reaches of Bhutan ‘caravan’ style with Bhutanese guides. Depending on the trip, the maximum number of guests is eight to twelve. The itineraries also remove the hassle of visas, planning and decision-making. The packages are designed to coincide with the best weather and/or a special event during 2009, and vary from seven to twelve nights. Accommodation is provided at Uma Paro; some trips include stays in other locally-owned hotels across Bhutan. Spring and summer trekking adventures also incorporate some nights under canvas. For more detailed itineraries and dates, please visit uma.como.bz.

Tourism Australia and the internationally renowned film-maker Baz Luhrmann and his team have created a sophisticated destination campaign with the concept of “Transformation” globally and the campaign is launched in Hong Kong. The idea of the campaign stems from Baz’s epic film Australia, which tells the story of Nicole Kidman’s character, Lady Sarah Ashley, who has lost her sense of self but who finds adventure, romance and her true self when she comes to Australia. According to Mr. Johnny Nee, Tourism Australia Regional General Manager for North Asia, this huge film would create a wave of publicity that would put the country in the spotlight around the globe. The campaign would run in all of Tourism Australia’s 22 major markets around the world from October 2008 until mid 2009. It will run in cinema, television, print and online, commencing in the Hong Kong on the 26th November 2008.

www.sakphuduen.com

A Touch of Nature and Class

SAK PHU DUEN KHAO YAI

Special New Year 2009 Package

"I-san Night" at Sak Phu Duen Celebrate your last day of the year 2008 and welcome New Year 2009 with "Pong Lang" show and special performances and various games with numerous lucky-draw prizes while enjoying specially selected international buffet, draft beer, and soft drinks. Rates: s Adult s Adult s Adult s Child (4-12 year-old)

Baht 5,500 (double) Baht 9,000 (single) Baht 3,800 (extra bed) Baht 1,000 (no extra bed)

All above rates are inclusive of followings: s 2-night stay at Superior Room or Cottage with daily breakfast s Complimentary souvenir for each room s Gala Dinner ticket on 31 December 2008 Conditions: s Check-in and check-out can be both between December 30 - January 1 or December 31 - January 2 s 50% deposit should be made within 7 days after reservation and total payment should be made 10 days prior to check in date s Additional 1 night stay costs 3,500 Baht/room/night inclusive of breakfast The hotel would like to invite you to join the merit ceremony giving food offerings to Buddhist monks on January 1, 2009 at 8.00 a.m. in front of the hotel (food offering set is available to buy at the hotel)

SAK PHU DUEN HOTEL & RESORT 119 Moo 6, Nongnamdang, Pak Chong, Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima 30130 Thailand Tel & Fax: +66 4424 9353, 08 5810 4455, Bangkok Office: 1867/164 K.R. BLDG., Charoennakorn Rd., Banglampulang, Klongsan, Bangkok 10600 Tel: +66 2439 1530 to 1535 Fax: +66 2439 1536 19

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Away Maerim, Chiang Mai Grand Opening Chiang Rai’s Newest Luxury Resort Le Méridien makes the latest addition to its portfolio with Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort, which recently launched as landmark of the north. Designed for well-travelled and cultured individuals, Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort occupies an idyllic 26-rai site beside the Kok River, in Thailand’s northernmost province, moments from the town of Chiang Rai and a one hour drive from the Golden Triangle. Astudo Hotel & Resort Management’s portfolio has been expanding rapidly across Thailand over the last two years. After successfully launching a increasing number of resort properties under its X2, Away and Le Bayburi brands, Astudo has the presents her latest development Away Maerim, Chiang Mai. Away Maerim, Chiang Mai, set on 25 Rai (40,000 square meters), is ideally located in the tranquil Mae Rim valley. This superb property provides the finest relaxation, a spa and excellent food and beverages. Understated rooms in huge sub-tropical surroundings offer lovely views over the surrounding mountains and a sense of calmness. A perfect place to relax and rejuvenate or to explore the well known Mae-Rim Valley. The resort offers a combination of 7 different types of accommodation with a total of 42 rooms. To celebrate the grand opening of Away Maerim, Chiang Mai the resort offers “buy 1 night get 1 night free”, available from now until the 31st of January 2009.

The centerpiece of the resort is two majestic 100-year-old rain trees. The venerable trees located at the heart of the property are an emblem of the resort’s owner and much beloved. The resort features 159 spacious contemporary guestrooms and suites located in five low-rise wings. The architecture draws on elements of refined Lanna traditions skillfully combined with modern design flair. Each individual space is defined by clean lines and bold design statements. High ceilings, crisp cotton sheets and local textiles create a luxurious personal environment while the exclusive Le Méridien bed guarantees a blissful night’s sleep. Expansive private balconies provide inspiring views of the river, gardens, and a tranquil lake. For further information or reservations, contact +66 53 603 333 or e-mail RSVN.chiangrai@ lemeridien.com

“Tour de Thailand 2008” Tour de Asia Bicycle Touring in conjunction with DTAC, Columbia Sportswear, and the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) announced “Tour de Thailand”, a 27 day charity bicycle tour covering over 2,300 KM from Chiang Mai to Phuket. The event starts in Chiang Mai with registered riders from around the world joining for 2-4 weeks and local cyclists joining from day to day. The 27 day journey includes 22 days of riding and 5 days off for rest, relaxation, and sightseeing in Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, Prachuap Khiri Khan, and Khao Sok National Park. The ‘Tour de Thailand’, in it’s 6th year as an international charity bike ride and also the signature ride of Tour de Asia, will take place in Thailand from Dec 9th – Jan 4th. Tour de Thailand will be raising funds for Operation

Smile Thailand, helping children receive the surgeries they need to correct Cleft Lip and Cleft Palate. Also benefitting will be the Foundation for the Blind in Thailand under the Royal Patronage of Her Majesty the Queen. Interested cyclists may opt to ride the whole route or just the Northern Segment or Southern Segment with a US$495.00 registration fee and a minimum fundraising goal for the charities (includes all accommodations, 2 Jerseys, 2 t-shirts, and much more). Information and registration can be obtained from 089-815-3169, 081-173-4469 or visit www.tourdethailand.com or email to chris@ tourdethailand.com There is no registration fee for local day riders. If locals participate they will receive a complimentary Promotional Item, Bottled Water, and can join the ride for a day of their choice.

The harmony of beauty and relaxation 22 Bangkapom-Kaewfa Rd., Amphawa District, Samut Songkhram 75110 Tel: +66 (0) 3475 2222 Fax: +66 (0) 3475 2229 Email: reservations@baanamphawa.com Website: www.baanamphawa.com

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WORLDHOTELS expands India Portfolio with two new hotels in Gurgaon and Bangalore

WORLDHOTELS announces further expansion in India by welcoming two business hotels from Bangalore and Gurgaon into the First Class Collection. Park Premier Hotel is the newest 4-star business hotel in Gurgaon, the growing corporate hub on the outskirts of New Delhi. The designer boutique hotel features 94 spacious and elegantly designed guest rooms and suites. The Park Premier Hotel offers a choice of three refreshing and stylish food and beverage outlets. The Down Town Café serves popular and freshly baked dishes 24-hour a day. The fine dining restaurant 29th The Grill is renowned for its exquisite grilled platters and succulent delicacies of seafood and meat, and as well as a distinctive selection of wines. The Lounge Bar at the lobby level provides hors d’ oeuvres, delectable snacks, and cocktails as well as live entertainment in the evening. The sophisticated conference and banquet facilities are complemented by a dedicated team of planners, chefs and service personnel who are on hand to assist with any events. Also joining WORLDHOTELS’ First Class Collection is The Atria – the well-established business hotel located in the heart of Bangalore, India’s ‘Silicon Valley’. The hotel is well connected to the main business and transportation hubs and is also the closest 4 star hotel to the new Bangalore International Airport.

“Make Us an Offer” on Galapagos Islands STOWE, VT - Adventure tour operator Boundless Journeys is getting into the online auction game again. The company’s popular Galapagos Islands nature cruise, scheduled for February 19-28, 2009 has a few spaces available and the company is allowing bidders to “Make Us an Offer”. Competition for the few spots is typically fierce, but winning bids are often between 25-40% below the listed price of the trip. To bid on the February 19-28, 2009 departure, simply e-mail your offer to info@ boundlessjourneys.com, or call 1-800-941-8010. Detailed itineraries are available online at www.boundlessjourneys.com.

With a total of 168 rooms and suites, The Atria is targeted at the international traveller and provides guests with comfortable high quality stays at affordable rates. The hotel features three restaurants and a bar including the acclaimed Tijouri which serves authentic Hindustani cuisine. The other restaurants are the 1498 A.D. restaurant - a tribute to the great Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama which offers daily breakfast and lunch buffet and a la carte dinner delights, and Silk Winds which serves a variety of Asian cuisines including Cantonese and Sichuan, Japanese, Malaysian and Thai delicacies. These are complemented by the hotel’s cosy Aqua Bar. In addition, The Atria offers well equipped and extensive conference and banquet facilities which can accommodate a maximum of one thousand guests. For further information Park Premier Hotel and on The Atria Hotel go to www.worldhotels.com

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Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Bangkok One of Bangkok’s landmark riverside hotels, the Menam Riverside Hotel, will re-open with a new name after an 800 million baht facelift. The newly-named Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Bangkok Hotel boasts extensive new facilities and over 500 refurbished rooms after two year’s of remodeling. The hotel, which features 525 guest rooms in contemporary Thai style, is now being internationally-managed by the Ramada Group.

“Ramada Plaza is a five-star brand so considerable time and money has been spent to upgrade all facilities here. The hotel can now compete with any other Bangkok hotel,” said Mr. Woodward. One of the key focus areas of the upgrade was the food and beverage outlets and the hotel now features 11 new food and beverage outlets including three stunning restaurants – The Eurasian Grill, Coconut Terrace and The Terrace @72.

The hotel also features 22 function rooms capable of accommodating up to 650 guests, making it the ideal place for corporate events, seminars and social functions.

“The Terrace @72 is located on the river and is separated into five sections to suit different clientele. We believe its going to attract a lot of people because of its location, design and culinary options,” explained Mr Woodward.

The new General Manager of the hotel, Ian Taylor Woodward, has extensive experience in running five-star properties and first arrived in the Kingdom 17 years ago.

The hotel will also open an internationallymanaged spa facility called The Massira Wellness & Spa which will open before the New Year.

With the fresh look comes a different focus on marketing explained Mr Woodward. “Our target is the European market because Thailand has always been a key destination for visitors from the United Kingdom, Germany and Scandinavia. We will also focus on Japan and Korea as they are growth markets for the future.” “With 22 function rooms we will be very attractive to the MICE market and a key revenue channel will be the corporate market.”

Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa invites travelers to experience Maldives through a unique package – ‘The Maldivian Package’ offering nightly accommodation in a choice of luxury room categories, daily breakfast, and complimentary dinner. To make travelers stay even more memorable this package include an exclusive Sunset Fishing Trip and the opportunity to have your freshly caught fish prepared as a tantalizing meal by our creative F&B team (for a small fee). Rate starts from USD560++ from December 1, 2008 and USD375 ++ from May 1, 2009 for the BeachFront Deluxe Room. Valid until August 31, 2009. Minimum of 7 nights stay is required. Terms & Conditions apply. Feel the welcoming touch of Sheraton. Because you don’t just stay here. You belong. Reservations at Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa is now open, bookings can be made via www.sheraton.com/ maldivesfullmoon.

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Mandarin Oriental, Munich’s Kandinsky Art Package Mandarin Oriental, Munich is delighted to introduce a special Kandinsky Package which celebrates “Absolute Abstract”; an extraordinary Wassily Kandinsky’s retrospective taking place at The Lenbachhaus in Munich. The package, which is available until 22nd February 2009, includes one night’s accommodation in one of Mandarin Oriental, Munich’s recently renovated guestrooms, a sumptuous breakfast in-room or at the hotel’s award winning restaurant Mark’s and tickets for “Absolute Abstract”. For the first time since 1966, The Lenbachhaus in Munich, is showcasing the entire collection of Wassily Kandinsky’s prints and graphic art at a major retrospective; Absolute Abstract. The exhibition, which features over 90 pieces by Kandinsky, has been made possible following a collaboration between The Lenbachhaus in Munich, The Centre Pompidou in Paris and The Guggenheim Museum in New York; who between them, hold the three largest collections of artwork by the worldrenowned artist. The “Kandinsky package” is available through 22 February 2009. Priced from Euro 389 per room for single occupancy and Euro 483 per room for double occupancy, the package includes: • One night’s luxurious accommodation at Mandarin Oriental, Munich • A la carte or buffet breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant Mark’s or in-room • Tickets for the Kandinsky retrospective

Asia Luxury Travel Market returns to Shanghai for 2009 Asia Luxury Travel Market (ALTM), now in its third year, is to be held at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre from 15th-18th June 2009 following the success and record attendance of the 2008 event. ALTM is dedicated solely to the luxury travel industry in Asia Pacific, an area of vast growth potential and is the sister event to the highly successful International Luxury Travel Market (ILTM) held annually in Cannes, France now entering its seventh year. Organised like a private club, the invitation-only event showcases leading luxury travel suppliers to hosted VIP travel buyers. The exhibition takes place in a highly exclusive environment in which buyers and sellers meet on a unique prearranged appointment system. The feedback from both exhibitors and buyers at ALTM 2008 was phenomenal with many exhibitors already committed to returning for 2009 including The Leading Hotels of the World, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, Jumeirah Hotels, Silversea 26

Cruises, Sina Fine Italian Hotels, Amanresorts, Peninsula Hotels, Conde Nast Johansens, Six Senses Resorts & Spas and Design Hotels. Newcomers include Prestige Hotels of the World and Switzerland Tourism. ALTM is organized by Reed Travel Exhibitions. For more information please visit the ALTM website www. altm.com.cn

VIEWPOINT | TOUR OPERATOR

story & photos: Attapong Akkarasirakul

Open travel views

through the experienced eyes of

Pakpoom Ruangchaisiwawete Managing Director of All In Travel Company Limited Pakpoom Ruangchaisiwawate graduated from faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University. While he was a student, he had many chances to participate in volunteer trips or his own faculty’s field trips. Usually during the school breaks, he would try to take vacations abroad, resulting in his inspiration and initiating the idea to start his own ‘travel world’ by registering a company to accommodate all travel related activities. Besides his company he is also interested in Jazz, and enjoys being a traveler, just sitting down, sipping his coffee at the world’s corners, observing people and their way of life. Pakpoom recalled his memory saying that he was an up-country boy. Whenever he saw Donmueang Airport, he had a dream to be a man with endless journeys. Soon after he had graduated, he started his dream career as a flight attendant for a while before continuing his studies in Australia where he achieved a Masters Degree in Marketing. Then he became a tour guide assistant, instead of being a marketing man as he had studied for. This was because he was awarded more than double the salary of those working in the marketing field. His first tour as a tourguide’s assistant was escorting a group to Hongkong. “There were about 40 guests on that trip, and it was easy as there were some other people to help. The next trip was going to the Caribbean Sea on the world’s biggest cruise liner. There are many techniques for a new tour guide assistant to learn, all of which are coached by senior guides. This apprenticeship program prepares an assistant

to be ready for European tour activities, where there is no local guide to support them. The unaccompanied tour guide has to do all activities by himself. For instance, they must prepare information about interesting attractions, liaise with all forms of transportation, book drivers, and everything else required for a perfect tour.” “It is tiresome work, but it is very rewarding work and gives you a satisfied feeling from making others happy. Whenever we see the smiles of our clients, it is something special – not that they will repeat the trip with us, but we are happy when we see them enjoy their experience. This business is considered to be non stop service work. You have to work 24 hours a day. Personally, I believe that if you don’t truly love the job, you can’t do it. We often stay with tours for a couple days, but it can be far longer than that – up to 10 days. For the longer trips, like in the trip to Japan, we can see how pleased our guests are when they are singing karaoke and enjoying life with us.” This makes us truly happy, Pakpoom stated. “I think it is the good experience that would be hard to find if I didn’t do this kind of job. When entering new countries, I have to do a lot of work, especially finding out the information about that certain country. On a 10-hour journey, sometimes all of our clients are sleeping well, while I still have to work organising the information and making other plans, which always have to be ready and perfect” Pakpoom reveals his feelings about when he does new and previously experienced field trips.

Pakpoom claimed that his working philosophy is quality oriented. That means he has to pay close attention to every detail, for instance checking the quality of hotels, restaurants and some other things which must always be of a high standard for his clients. Besides this, he has to maintain good relationships with all the clients. He treats them similar to how he would treat his own family members. Being asked why human beings have to travel, he answered “I always say that travel is a part of life. It is the only way to see the world outside, and gives me a better understanding of life, and how to get more out of it. These experiences have gradually changed my attitudes towards what I have seen – the same old pictures are changed with a deeper understanding.” He added “that is why people have to travel”. He gave one good example of this, among the hundreds of experiences he has. “The first time that I went to Russia, I thought that Russia was a rich country, with a good world ranking, and good average income for its population. But what I saw was that they are seriously hard working people, and that’s how they earn their good standard of living”. When asked about his most impressive moment that he has from leading field trips. He thought for a moment and recalled a clear picture of an event when his group got lost in Europe for 10 hours, which made them all miss the train. However he was able to handle the incident professionally. “We did an eight

“Traveling is a part of life. It is the best way to expose ourselves to the different worlds and better understand them” day trip to five countries in Europe. It was an exhausting one. I went there with ten university teachers. They all were very active, eager for knowledge, and wanted to take on a new experience. Unfortunately we didn’t realize that our Hungarian driver was very new in the area that we had visited. His driving was totally dependant on GPRS. Then we had to travel from Switzerland to France in order to take a train. Our group got lost for 10 hours. Of course, we all missed the train. I solved this problem by arranging some very nice accommodation for them, and turned this event into being one of the most memorable experiences of the journey for everyone. Finally, Pakpoom revealed his plan for the coming challenging year in Thailand due to the expected slowdown of the economy. He plans to coordinate with his friend who owns a school to launch ‘educational travel’ – learning and observing languages and cultures – while focusing on destinations which are becoming popular among the younger generation. These locations are predominantly Korea and Japan. He concluded that in this situation, penetrating a niche market is most likely to be the best possible way to survive. Though it is difficult and tiresome at times, Pakpoom is still enjoying his work, with the key reason being that ‘people and travel are a part of his life.’

Travel Gadgets

Iloho Reveals the Top 10 Luxury Christmas Presents for Travelers

If you agree that a Scottish cashmere travel blanket, a classic leather travel wallet, and access to some of the world’s best airport lounges, would all look good wrapped up underneath the Christmas tree, then check out iloho’s list of the “Top 10 Luxury Christmas Presents for Travellers”. Online travel network, iloho (www.iloho.com), reveals this inspirational guide, filled with the best gift ideas for road warriors and travel lovers. The list is available online at http://blog.iloho.com/.   The “Top 10 Luxury Christmas Presents for Travellers” covers a range of gift ideas, from decadent accessories and luxury luggage, to services that will soothe travel aches and pains.

Examples from the Top 10 list include:   • A luxurious 100% pure Scottish cashmere travel blanket; • Membership to a global concierge service that is accessible 24 hours a day, 365 days a year; • Top-of-the-range noise-cancelling headphones that have changed the way some people travel.   To view the guide, visit http://blog.iloho.com/.

“Mini Me: Mandarina Duck – The ICONS Project” Icon Utility | price: 2,000 Baht Icon Double | price: 2,000 Baht Icon MD20 | price: 2,000 Baht Icon Turtle | price: 2,000 Baht Available at Mandarina Duck Shop, CentralWorld and Siam Paragon

IN THE BOOK

Samui

By Debra Yantis Publisher: Colin R. Burgess The book “Samui” provides a meaningful background to the culture and geography of Samui Island. With this book you can find out where to go to see the most beautiful parts of the island, and where the villages that retain the most Thai culture are located. Also included are some recommended shops, resorts, restaurants and other venues for you to visit. This book has it all covered, to bring its readers true variety and the best that Samui has to offer in it’s range of styles and sensibilities. The book comes with detailed maps and an index that will help guide you through the recommended places to visit during your travels. Available from Asia Books.

Wild Rivers

A photographic odyssey in Thailand By L.Bruce Kekule Publisher: WKT Publishing Wild Rivers recorded a photographic odyssey along some of Thailand’s most important waterways, such as the Phetchaburi River, Huai Kha Khaeng, Mae Klong, Kwai Noi, and the Mae Ping River, which evolved millions of years ago, and still harbors many magnificent wildlife creatures. The book also illustrates tropical habitats from the mangrove swamps right up to evergreen forests that continue to thrive in the country. Also available from Asia Books.

skybulletins

Korean Air

Incheon - Milan Service Effective from December the 10th, Korean Air, South Korea’s flagship carrier, will introduce a twice-a-week flight service to Milan, the second largest city and the fashion capital of Italy. The two outbound flights will depart Seoul/Incheon on Wednesdays and Sundays at 1:55 pm, and arrive in Milan at 6pm the same day. The flights will leave Milan at 7:50pm, continuing to Rome where they will arrive at 9pm. The return flight will depart Rome at 10:30pm, direct to Incheon, with an arrival time of 5:35pm the next day. Korean Air will use a 300-seat Boeing 777-200 aircraft for this route. Korean Air is adding stops at Milan onto the existing Incheon ~ Rome route for two of the three weekly frequencies. The airline expects to enhance passenger convenience, especially for those traveling within Italy. The new service is an extension of Korean Air’s route between Incheon and Rome, where the carrier offers three flights a week. Milan is the airline’s 14th destination in Europe. This makes Korean Air the largest non-European airline from Asia that provides routes into Europe, in terms of the number of routes they now have.

Etihad Airways

World’s leading first class airline Etihad Airways, the national airline of the UAE, has been voted the ‘world’s leading first class airline’ at this year’s World Travel Awards. Votes for the WTA ceremony, which took place at Beaches Turks and Caicos Resort and Spa, were taken from nearly 170,000 travel industry professionals from around the world, including more than 110,000 travel agents. The global accolade comes just months after the Abu Dhabi-based airline was awarded the regional title of ‘leading first class’ at the Middle East World Travel Awards in October 2008.

www.garuda-indonesia.com

EXPLORE

WONDERS OF INDONESIA WITH GARUDA

714 domestic flights per week 183 international flights per week Garuda Indonesia Call Center

In line with Garuda Indonesia's commitment to provide better customer service, we now provide a call center for reservation. Check for seating availability and make a reservations as well as get information about schedules, arrivals, departures, routing, wait list status, baggage tracing, delays and fares. The call center is open 24 hours a day and staffed by over 200 operators.

Thailand Office 1168/77 Lumpini Tower, 27th Floor, Rama IV Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok Tel: (66-2) 6797369/71-2, (66-2) 2856473 Fax: (66-2) 2856474

skybulletins

Jet Airways

AirAsia

Jet Airways, India’s premier international airline was honoured with the much coveted ‘Best Domestic Airline Award’ for the Year 2008, at the 19th TTG Travel Awards. The award was accepted by Mr. Gaurang Shetty (Senior Vice President of Alliance & Interline Distribution) and Ms. Lackana Wantaywin (Country Manager for Thailand), at the Presentation Ceremony and Gala Dinner in Bangkok, attended by many established big players in the travel trade from across the Asia Pacific region. Jet Airways was the recipient of the TTG Travel Award for the sixth time, having previously won the same award in the years 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007. Other awards recently won by Jet Airways also include “Best Indian Airline” and “Best in Travel Poll”.

AirAsia, Asia’s leading and award winning low-fare airline kicks off a massive regional marketing campaign, aptly themed “Get Your Baht To Thailand”, “Mai Pen Rai Thailand” and “Same Same Thailand”. All as part of AirAsia’s initiative to support Thailand’s travel, trade, and tourism, by offering 100, 000 free seats in Bangkok.

Best Domestic Airline

100, 000 free seats Photo caption: From left: Capt Dharmadi, CEO of Indonesia AirAsia; Mr Tassapon Bijleveld, CEO of Thai AirAsia; Ms Phornsiri Manoharn, Governor of Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT); Dato’ Sri Tony Fernandes, Group CEO of AirAsia; Ms Juthaporn Rerngronasa, Deputy Governor Marketing Communications of TAT; and Ms Kathleen Tan, Regional Head of Comemrcial AirAsia at the launch of “Get Your Baht to Thailand” regional campaign in Bangkok

Qatar Airways

Online Check-In Service Qatar Airway’s passengers departing from the airline’s hub in Doha, can now check-in online at qatarairways.com. This service is available for all passengers flying with the Five Star airline out of Doha International Airport, with the exception of those travelling to New York or Washington. The new online check-in service, accessible on the airline’s website qatarairways.com, allows passengers in all classes of travel to check-in between a maximum of 36 hours, and a minimum of 2 hours prior to the departure time, from the comfort of their home or office. They can choose a seat, print a boarding pass, or have a bar-coded boarding pass sent to a mobile phone, in simple and convenient easy-to-use steps. The airline will roll out the online check-in service to other airports served by Qatar Airways worldwide over the next few months. 34

Finnair

Baby girl born on Finnair flight Emirates Airline

Emirates rewards small and medium-sized businesses in Thailand Emirates Airline has launched Business Rewards in Thailand, an innovative new reward program, tailor-made for small and medium enterprises (SMEs). An online-based programme, Business Rewards offers SMEs the opportunity to benefit from employee flights. Each time a registered employee books their Emirates flight through Business Rewards, the business earns Business Rewards Miles, while the individual traveler continues to earn their Miles from Skywards, Emirate’s frequent flyer programme. The company can then redeem accumulated Business Rewards Miles against future flights.

In addition to reward miles, Emirate’s Business Rewards programme also provides a convenient online portal for administrators in SMEs to manage employee travel on the Emirates Airline. The company must register with Business Rewards in the country where it is located, but it can accumulate Miles for travel undertaken by employees at any other branches, into one central account. Emirates Business Rewards is immediately available online to small and medium-sized businesses based in Thailand. For more information and to become a member, please visit www.emirates.com.

A baby girl was born on a Finnair flight from Bangkok to Helsinki, above Kazakhstan at the altitude of 11 000 km, on November the 20th. The baby’s Swedish mother was returning from Thailand. The birth took place with the assistance of a doctor from the MedLink medical service via a satellite phone link between two doctors traveling as passengers and two nurses. The mother and child were immediately taken to hospital upon arrival at Helsinki-Vantaa airport. A MedLink doctor is on duty for all Finnair widebody aircraft, making round-the-clock expert assistance available to all passengers and staff. The flight left Bangkok at 12:35 local time, and arrived at Helsinki at 18:20 Finnish time. The flight took 10 hours and 50 minutes, and there were 227 passengers on board. The family will receive return Finnair flights to Bangkok as a complimentary gift.

JAL

Japan Emissions Trading Scheme The JAL Group has made the decision to participate on a voluntary basis in trials of a Japan only emissions trading scheme, set up by the Japanese government. The trial scheme runs from FY2008 to FY2012, the financial year ending March 31st. Companies that volunteer to participate in the scheme must set themselves CO2 emission reduction targets for their business operations in Japan, for every financial year during the 5-year period. Targets are submitted by each company for approval by the Japanese government. Companies that manage to achieve their CO2 emission reduction targets, or even managed to exceed them, can trade credits with other companies in the scheme that have not managed to meet their own targets. During the period of the scheme, the JAL Group has set itself a target for each fiscal year, to cut the CO2 emissions per available seat kilometer (ASK) of its Japan based domestic fleet, making continuous comparisons with it’s the base level recorded in 1990. This includes all domestic operations by JAL and JAL Group airline subsidiaries HAC, J-AIR, JAC, JEX, JTA, and RAC.

The airline group is targeting a 16% cut in CO2 emissions per ASK of its domestic fleet each year up until FY2012. The percentage targets will be calculated by comparing the base fiscal year of 1990 to the average CO2 emissions per ASK of three-year periods up to and including each financial year e.g. FY2012 % Target = average CO2 emissions per ASK for the 3 year period FY2010 - 2012 compared to 1990. For more than 15 years, Japan Airlines has been implementing a variety of measures designed to reduce and offset the impact its business activities have on the environment. JAL has decided to participate in this government-led scheme as part of the airline’s ongoing environmental efforts.

ADVERTORIAL | TOYOTA

oyota Motor Thailand Co., Ltd. recently organized a special event “Fortuner Paradiso Exclusive Rally 5 Trip” to gratefully reward its Fortuner customers and members of the Fortuner Club by providing lots of fun activities which were joined by many celebrities of Thailand. The event also provided everybody with an opportunity to test drive the New Fortuner, and experience luxurious comfort and smoother functions of a high-end SUV.

Fortuner Paradiso

Exclusive Rally Trip

The first rally trip was on the 25th and 26th of October 2008 from Bangkok to Hua Hin. All participants had a chance to enjoy staying in stylish accommodation at AKA Guti Kiri Resort in Hua Hin. Although it was raining on the way to the resort city of Hua Hin, every driver had great fun with riddles and various games while stopping over at the King Rama II Memorial Park and Rim Kaeng Restaurant. On the way to Kaeng Krachan Dam, racers had to find RC, and also stopped to make merit at Wat Huay Mongkol. Apart from an amusing rally, all participating families also had a chance to experience the upper-class comfort of the New Fortuner, with adjustable seats – flat, space-up 50:50 freely adjusting, and

tumble 60:40 for more space for golf equipment. The New Fortuner is also equipped with air-conditioning in the second and third rows to ensure coolness reaches every corner. At AKA GUTI KIRI Resort, everyone enjoyed a natural environment and a dinner party, with delicious food and great music. During the dinner, the winner received an award, and souvenirs were given to all participants. Included in the rally trip was a golf tour activity at Black Mountain Golf Club, led by golf celebrities such as Amarin Nitiphon, Atithep Chodchoi, and many others who revealed several golf secrets to the Fortuner customers.

Fortuner’s Rally Trip to the Northeast

nce again the second trip for “Fortuner Paradiso Exclusive Rally 5 Trip” organized by Toyota Motor Thailand Co., Ltd. during 22nd – 23rd of November 2008 to Khon Khan and Loei in the northeastern Thailand. Joined by 23 New Fortuner SUVs, the trip was accompanied by Kalamae Patcharasri and the media. Starting from Khon Khan University, it passed TC points onto the snaky road leading everyone through mountainous scenes until reaching the Loei Province.

cozy accommodation provided by the Phu Na Kam Resort. Before dinner, all rally participants were provided with a wine testing class by the expert taster Kamolsak Tangthamniyom, then had dinner and enjoyed local folk performances.

The train of Fortuners made several brief stops at some attractions of Loei, such as Phrat That Sri Song Rak and Phi Takhon Museum before arriving at some very

For more information about Fortuner Rally, visit www.fortunerrally.com and please stay tuned for the next trip in Phuket during 13-14 December 2008.

The next morning, all Fortuner members were greeted by the sea of mist and a beautiful sunrise at Phu Rua National Park, despite the freezing weather.

COVER FEATURE | Laos

story & photos: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

The Mekong

A Pleasing Cruise Through

Overwhelmed by a long and exhausting life journey, sometimes we are reminded to slow our steps. More often, we feel that the actual destination is not at the end of the road but at the beginning, and as we walk along the way. The recent journey Gaid P. Kornsilp made along the Mekong River in Laos proves how one can indeed enjoy life at a sluggish pace.

Previous page: Luang Say Boat cruises her way along the Mekong River heading to Luang Prabang Left and above: international river boats carry passengers across the Mekong River from Chiang Khong in Thailand to Houayxay in Laos

prefer to call it “a voyage to a sparkling dream.” Nothing else is better than reposing on a cozy boat moving slowly along the great river of the Mekong, a beautiful waterway adjacent to numerous mountain crags peaking out of the mist, passing those living a lovely, simple way of life on both sides of the water trail. My itinerary included two days and one night traveling along the Mekong River, before reaching the World Heritage City of Luang Prabang. But I didn’t care about the duration; in fact, I wished it could go more slowly so I could spend more time hanging loose, enjoying the natural ambience along the way. In fact, I was taking the trip to find out why travelers prefer to make their journey on water for two days rather than take a quick one-hour flight from another Laos city or Bangkok. In the morning we began our cruise downstream along the Mekong River. The night before we stayed overnight at a guesthouse in Chiang Khong, a small border town in Chiang Rai province of Thailand, opposite Laos’ Ban Houayxay in Bokeo province. With a permanent Thai-Laos border crossing, Chiang Khong is a stopover for those tourists - most with huge backpacks - heading to Luang Prabang by way of the Mekong River.

Right: a tranquil part of waterway along the Mekong River, which runs along and through the borders of Thailand and Laos

After having our passports stamped in Thailand, we used a long-tail boat to cross the wide river from Chiang Khong to Houayxay in Laos where public boats to Luang Prabang are moored. Soon after passing through Laos immigration, we moved to the other pier to board ‘Luang Say,’ a Mekong riverboat operated by a private company. The river barge on the Mekong is slim and long so that it can smoothly pass thorough the strong whitewaters that are found on some parts of the river. The Luang Say boat has similar characteristics but what makes it different from the other boats are its level of comfort and onboard services. Because it is a tourist-only boat, we don’t have to worry about sharing space with poultry herds or massive loads of goods that general boats always carry. The Luang Say cruise also arranges exclusive lodging on the bank of the river for its guests to stay overnight at during the two-day trip. The journey along the Mekong River could certainly be described as “cruising for pleasure,” not just a boat ride that rushes to its destination. Those looking to get to Luang Prabang in a hurry do have a faster choice, as there is a speedboat that departs from Chiang Khong as well. It is a short and small long-tail boat with a capacity of six persons, all of who need to wear helmets and keep their heads lowered the entire time due to its rapid space. It takes only one day to reach its destination - but all passengers have to keep in mind their fate is relatively insecure considering the water is full of rapids and huge rocks. Unexpected incidents can happen any time unless the boat controller is very skilful. So, along with many other travelers, I chose the preferable way to travel, sitting back on the Luang Say cruise boat while enjoying cups of fresh Laotian coffee and some of my favorite books. Surrounded by a spectacular river scene, it’s not very often in my daily life I have a chance to feel the ‘unhurried’ moments a trip like this offers. The first part of the Mekong River we rode through, southward, features Thailand to the right and Laos to the left. To my rough sight, there is nothing too different between the two sides of the river - just better infrastructure on one side and improving infrastructure on the other. Some skinhead mountains and barren valleys caused by deforestation on both sides might at first obstruct spectacular scenes, but not for long; we soon passed into greener zones. It was about an hour before we arrived at the mouth of Nam Tha,

a tributary on the Mekong River. A few kilometers before the estuary, the Mekong departs Thailand and flows into Laos territory, heading eastward to Luang Prabang, then returning southward to the Thai border again in the Chiang Khan district of Loei province in Thailand. At the beginning of the cruise the boat was sprayed with the drizzling sky but the clouds sitting over the mountain peaks created a beautiful dream-like ambience in truly peaceful surroundings. To break up the long journey, Luang Say has arranged for travelers to visit some ethnic villages along the way. Ban Gon Dturn, the village of Tai Lue which has been settled on the Mekong River’s bank for more than 300 years, is

usually visited by guests of Luang Say boat. Unfortunately, the day we arrived it was a low-tide day, so the boat couldn’t make its anchor. We skipped our visit to Ban Gon Dturn and looked for other local villages. Finally, we stopped at Ban Huay Palam, a rural village with a simple way of living located far away from life’s extravagances. All the wooden houses in the village are traditional, roofed with bamboo and thatch. The arrival of strangers brought excitement to the villagers, especially kids who ran out of their homes, curiosity leading them to the group of tourists. But when we asked them for permission to take photos, some of them reluctantly posed while others ran away and climbed up a tree out of shyness.

Clockwise from left: Luang Say boat makes a stop at the waterfront of Huay Palam Village; smiles are for free, from the sincere hearts of local people; a family of three generations living together in peace; and a shy girl who tries to hide herself behind the pole when approached by strangers

The visit to Ban Huay Palam was magnificent for most of us who spend our time in the big city. When I left the village, I realized that happiness can easily be found in the nature around us. But if someone asked me if I would prefer to live in simplicity, the same as this village, without hesitation I would say â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;noâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. It is better for me to visit the place from time to time. On the other hand, if the local kids were asked if they preferred to move to town to stroll around at the modern shopping complex, they might possibly lift their eyebrows in question - what do you mean, shopping complex? How many light-years is it away? I guess the answer from them would be the same as mine because each of us has our own way of life to walk.

Clockwise from below: local kids pose for the camera at Huay Palam Village; boys and girls are always enjoying their natural swimming pool on the Mekong River; a cozy home and members of the family; boys playing with their pets

The Luang Say boat slowly floated through the mountain curtains on the snaky water channel, and when lunchtime arrived we enjoyed a buffet onboard. After our stomachs were filled with digestible glee, most passengers fell asleep while some of them enjoyed themselves by retreating into solitary with their personal iPods and books. There was no need to feel guilty about being lazy on this boat because the atmosphere was incredibly relaxing. When we moved close to Pak Beng, our onenight stopover spot about half way, I noticed that both sides of the riverbank are decorated with more rocks and islets. The light from the late afternoon sun reflected on the surface of the water, making golden illuminations. The gloomy atmosphere of the beginning of the trip was dissolved by the brilliant blue sky bedecked by some white puffy clouds. Every time I directed my eyes out of the boat I could see pure beauty in countless ways, with no scenes repeated for my camera lens, which captured shot after shot.

I have visited many parts of the Mekong River, in China, Vietnam and Southern Laos, and I would have to conclude that the Mekong section travelled by the Luang Say cruise is the most beautiful area of them all. Composed of different layers of mountainous scenes set on the banks of the river, it created impressive river views for my eyes the entire way. After a whole day of cruising along the river, we stopped at Luang Say Lodge, an exclusive accommodation for guests of the Luang Say cruise only, located two kilometers before the town of Pak Beng at the most beautiful viewpoint on the curve of the river. The resort was built with wooden and natural materials to harmonize with the natural setting, surrounded by lush tropical plants and flowers. We received a warm welcome by the resort staff, who dressed in traditional ethnic costumes and served us herbal refreshments that reinvigorated us. After check-in and a brief amount of

Previous page: the Mekong River flows below the thick clouds before heavy rain Above left: A beautiful curve of the river, taken in front of Luang Say Lodge in Pak Beng Above right: Luang Say Boat stops for an overnight break at Luang Say Lodge

time to relax in our room, we met again at the resort’s restaurant for a romantic dinner. It was an exhausting day but one filled with great delights. *****

he next morning arrived with a spectacular view of the mist from the peaks of the mountains, curling down through the curve of the river before dissolving into the sunshine. Before the second day’s journey began, we paid a visit to the marketplace in Pak Beng located near our resort. Pak Beng is a small settlement on the bank of the river, but it plays an important role as a port town and an overnight stopover for boats and travelers who make their journey to the city of Luang Prabang by the main water route. In the morning this town becomes a lively place where many local people come to trade various goods and many backpackers depart their guesthouses and budget hotels to buy food before they continue their trip.

We strolled on the main street of the town for almost an hour. Outside the market, there were also many vendors selling their goods along the side of the road, mostly food and local vegetables. Although Pak Beng is one of the tourist hubs on the Mekong’s route, there are not many goods to offer to tourists as one would usually find at popular attractions. This is why I like this town, because its simple way of life remains unchanged. We headed back to the resort with a handful of local food and snacks for another full day on the water. After breakfast at Luang Say Lodge, it’s time to leave our cozy accommodation in Pak Beng to continue our journey down the great river. The reflection of morning sunlight shone on the vibrant water as the Luang Say boat left the pretty town behind, plowing east through the glittering river. Not too long after we departed the pier, the current of the Mekong flowed into the countryside of Laos, sandwiched by cliffs and hulking mountains.

Clockwise from left: a simply-built raft house on the Mekong at Ban Baw; a group of girl vendors at Pak Beng morning market selling local vegetables; the Mekong River in its utmost beauty; a girl convinces tourists with her sincere smile to buy pieces of handmade fabric from her; a Buddhist monk residing at Ban Baw Temple looking at arriving tourists

From time to time, I saw small villages with a few houses hidden behind the sandbank and lush trees. For streetwalkers like us, it is exciting enough to see just one buffalo, but we had a chance to see a herd of buffalo playing with water beside our boat.

When it began to drizzle, we were rushed back to the boat and resumed our trip. The Mekong River could only be obscurely seen through the curtain of rain but it was just like a picture in a dream, as the Luang Say boat propelled into it at a leisurely pace.

For two hours we cruised before making a stop at Ban Baw, a small village by the river popular for its locally-made whisky and artistic handmade fabric. Ban Baw is a small ethnic community that has been settled for over 600 years. In the past, residents comprised of three ethnic groups - Lao Loum, Tai Lue, and Shan - but today the majority is Lao Loum, with few other races remaining.

Late in the afternoon we approached the outskirts of Luang Prabang. The World Heritage City was just 25 kilometers ahead of us as we arrived at the mouth of the Nam Ou River. Opposite the tributary is the famous tourist attraction, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pak Ou caves,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; which consist of Tham Ting (lower cave) and Tham Toeng (upper cave.)

Ban Baw is a captivating stopover for tourists because it seems to be the only spot on the long journey where they have a chance to pull out a bit of money from their pockets to spend on souvenirs.

Inside the caves sit thousands of Buddha images, in every corner of the chambers. At Laos New Year, Laotian pilgrims flock to the caves to perform a ritual washing of all the Buddha statues and add more statues, with the belief that it is a great merit of life. Before the con-

Clockwise from right: plenty of Buddha images inside Pak Ou Caves; the two-tone of water at the mouth of the Ou river; view of the Mekong River seen from inside a cave through the silhouette shadows of Buddha images

stitutional reform, this ceremony was performed by the king and his family. Today, the ritual is normally presided over by the governor of Luang Prabang. From the lower cave, those of us whose battery still had a bit of life climbed the 200 steps to the upper cave, also filled Buddha images, however these lie in a dark chamber which can only be seen by torchlight. Pak Ou caves is also a good spot to catch sight of the two-tone river at the Nam Ou tidal mouth where two rivers of two different colors - brown water from Mekong and blue water from Nam Ou - meet.

After a visit at Pak Ou caves, we spent a little more time cruising along the last part of the Mekong River until we arrived at Luang Prabang in the evening, marking the end of our memorable journey on water for two days and one night. When Luang Say cast its anchor at the pier in front of the renowned Wat Xieng Thong, I contemplated the beauty of the Mekong River one last time, and disembarked with the utmost feeling of elatedness. Special Thanks to Mekong Cruises Co., Ltd. TEL: +66 (0) 2689 0429-30 Tropical Star Travel Co., Ltd. TEL: +66 (0) 2513 4996

Luang Say Cruise

The ultimate river journey pleasure

uang Say, a well-recognized Mekong River cruise, organizes fantastic river trips from Houey Say (accessed from Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chiang Khong district) down stream to the world heritage site of Luang Prabang and upstream back to Houey Say.

chance to experience the local culture when the boat stops to make short visits at a few villages on the way to Luang Prabang. Besides, the cruise stops over in Pakbeng where guests spend an incredible night at Luang Say Lodge.

The long wooden boat is 34 meters long with a 420HP engine and a steel hull providing strength and safety. The boat can accommodate around 40 people in its comfortable seats and benches, where the guests can enjoy sightseeing along both sides of the riverbanks.

Each cruise has French, English and Thai-speaking guides who are willing to add any information one might wish to know and point out sights of interest along the way. And to make sure guests are safe and enjoy a comfortable journey, Luang Sayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travelers are always taken care of by a qualified captain, mechanics and boat boys.

Apart from the comfortable features of the boat, snacks, lunch and beverages are served and on offer to purchase to enhance the journey. Not only can guests enjoy taking in scenes of life along the riverbanks, they will have a

For more information on Luang Say Cruise, please call +66 (0) 2689 042930 or visit www.mekong-cruises.com.

OVERNIGHT | Pak Beng

Luang Say Lodge

Simply the best on the Mekong River

armoniously nestled by the Mekong River, the Luang Say Lodge sits on four hectares of land with a traditional Laotian architectural design featuring 20 large bungalows, each with large open-air windows looking out over the flowing river of life with the green mountains in the background. Each room is fitted with comfortable beds, mosquito nets, electric mosquito coils, a ceiling fan and private bathrooms featuring hot showers and western-style toilets. Its wooden walkways link all the rooms to the central restaurant and bar area and are surrounded by lush tropical gardens enhancing its fresh and relaxing atmosphere.

Sitting amidst nature, its Central River Bank Restaurant, right by the river, offers guests fine selections of local and international cuisines as well as an international standard well-stocked bar. At every moment, guests are serviced by genuinely attentive staff members. Please call +66(0) 2689 0429-30 for bookings and more information or visit www.mekong-cruises.com

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LAYOVER | KANCHANABURI

Boutique R aft Resort, A cozy life by the water’s path River Kwai

umble and tranquil, located along the Kwai Noi River, the Boutique Raft Resort reveals itself gracefully through the white morning mist. An active young man ,Prateep Tunprasert, who was born locally, disclosed that the Boutique Raft Resort is something that he and his best friend, Chanarong Jai-sumrit, wanted to create as a relaxing and comfortable place for holidaymakers to appreciate the romantic riverside, and the memorable history of Kanchanaburi.

Boutique Raft Resort features internationally well equipped rooms, set upon the floating raft, facing the lush greenery of local vegetation. Besides these beautiful floating rooms, in order to be able to accommodate those who want to stay on land, the resort also provides well decorated land based rooms to suit any of its guest’s preferences. “We want all our guests to feel close-to-nature when staying with us”, claims Prateep. Apart from having some of the most comfortable accommodation, the Boutique Raft Resort restaurant (formerly known as Pai Kaew Restaurant), is something that the Resort is extremely proud of. It provides a large variety of food – ranging from local dishes to international cuisines – prepared by its experienced and highly complimented chef. Not only is this the perfect location for a resort, but it is also in the central area, where the guests can experience the wonderful history and natural scenery of Kanchanaburi. The resort’s well-trained staff are waiting to show you, and the world, the charming sites that are available.

Kanchanaburi is the 3rd largest province of Thailand, located to the west of Bangkok, only 150 kilometers away, and just 2-hours by car. Geographicaly the area is mostly tropical jungle, mountains, and rivers with the well-known “River Kwai” that the world has engraved on it’s memory as one of the most heartless sites for prisoners of war (POWs) during World War II. “Nowadays, over 5 millions tourists visit Kanchanaburi every year, we recommend that travelers should spend at least 3-4 days here if they would like to see many diverse attractions available across this province. A few of the attractions are; Saiyok Yai National Park, Lawa Cave, Saiyok Noi Waterfall, museums, Hellfire Pass, local wildlife, dams, camping in the jungle (enjoying the mostly lovely and warm tropical weather), and many adventure activities that are organized around the area. It’s really a remarkable site, a special place in the world, that both Thai people and foreigners should try to visit,” Prateep adds.

For more information, please contact Boutique Raft Resort, River Kwai, 413 Moo 3 Tambon Tha-sao, Saiyok, Kanchanaburi 71150. Tel: +66 (0) 34 634 191, Hp: +66 (0) 86 309 4200 www.boutiqueraft-riverkwai.com

Reward yourself with a ‘cozy moment’, stay at the Boutique Raft Resort, and let them take care of anything you could need or want, for a truly relaxing and interesting vacation. 63

PATHWAY | INDONESIA

story & photos: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

Jakarta

On Old Streets

Due to it being one of the least mentioned areas of tourism, it would take most people a long, paused moment, of deep thought, to figure out even a basic answer when being asked about the best tourist spots in Jakarta. This mega city, is listed among the cities of highest population density in the world, yet seems to pay little attention to attracting tourists. However this certainly doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean Jakarta has nothing to offer. Hidden inside the messy scenes of the metropolis, are charming traces of history, dating right back to the colonial era, and these alone are worth discovering

Clockwise from left: Medeka Square, where the National Monument is located; group of tourists walk through underground tunnel to the entrance of the National Monument; Garuda, national emblem of Indonesia, located inside the MONAS 65

akarta has many ways for it’s visitors to get around the city, ranging from public buses (with and without a busway), a rail network, boat, taxi, Ojek (motorbike taxi), and Bajaj (small tricycles similar to Thailand’s Tuk Tuk). It’s not recommended for newcomers to move around the town by themselves, due to its lack of signage, tourist information, and extremely chaotic streets. First timers to this city are therefore recommended to take advantage of the easily obtained one-day sightseeing tours, to prevent getting lost and wasting your precious holiday time. After getting acquainted to the bedlam, you may decide to venture out and stroll around in the neighboring area to your hotel, taking in the sites and smells of this intoxicating city. There are 12 rivers flowing past the city, all of an impressive size, the most important one being the Ciliwung River which flows to the sea in the north, where the oldest settlement of the city was first established. The large urban complex is divided into several zones, including Central Jakarta, West Jakarta, East Jakarta, South Jakarta, and North Jakarta where several hundred islands and islets are located off the coast, this area is known as “Thousand Islands.” I went to the National Monument of Indonesia and was elevated up to the top of its 137 meter high obelisk, for truly clear overview of Jakarta way above the busy streets. The National Monument, referred to by the local people as Monas, is built as a symbol of the independence of the nation. On the top knot of the tower is a sculpture of a flame, coated with 35 kilograms of pure gold. Each day, there are a lot of both local people and tourists who pay visit to this popular icon, and it often has an hour long queue for the lift to the upper deck. However most important part of the monument is in the hall, where the declaration of independence sign is installed within an underground exhibiting room, accompanied by dioramas displaying the sequence of events through Indonesia’s history. Jakarta is located in the northwest region of Java Island. It’s history can be traced back to the 4th century, when the first Hinduist settled there. The community was known by several different names, according to the period of time, with some of the old names still remaining until today in many historical places. My latest visit to Indonesia’s capital city was to discover the remains of the old town.

The Old Jakarta is walled within a small area of only1.3 square kilometers, in the north of the city. It was called Sunda Kelapa during the reign of a Hindu king, he controlled the area until the seizure by the Sultanate of Demak, during the empowering of Central Java in 1526. Sunda Kelapa was later renamed “Jayakarta”, which means the great victory. Nonetheless, the name Sunda Kelapa is still known, and is the most important port of Jakarta until the present day. Sunda Kelapa is a destination of key interest, and so when I arrived I decided to pay a visit. The place is still operating as a port, where many old wooden vessels usually anchor to load and unload goods. Most of the ships carry wood from Kalimantan in Borneo Island to Jakarta. I had a chance to get on board a moored vessel when it was being loaded with some goods. Standing there on the deck, I could imagine the old days of cargo ships with the smell of old wood and diesel. It seems that life drifts along slowly at the old harbour. There were a few local people passing by on bicycles. A middle-aged man, with dark skin from the longhaul, exposed to the sun while he works as an oarsman sending his passengers to the opposite side of the river. When no customers arrived, he usually waits under the shade of a large ship and takes a nap. There were a few tourist vans arriving at the port, and then heading back without even stopping the vehicle. Only the labourers who were loading goods moved with any haste. Although the old port of Sunda Kelapa has survived through the long complex history of Jakarta, it shows few traces of the past, but instead is surrounded by slums, and has a backdrop of tall buildings. Still, Sunda Kelapa was a good place for me to start to explore the gorgeous and interesting past of Jakarta. During the period of the colonial hunter, Jayakarta was one of the targets that couldn’t resist the Western power. It was totally destroyed by the Dutch East India Company in 1619. One year after, the Dutch started a new town on the east side of the Ciliwung River, and named it “Batavia” to commemorate the Dutch ancestors. Batavia was then marked on Jakarta’s historical pages in the colonial era.

Jakartaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bajaj, small tricycles similar to Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tuk Tuk

Old wooden vessels anchor to load and unload goods at Sunda Kelapa Port

Life drifts along slowly at the old harbour

An oarsman waiting for his passengers to the opposite side of the river

Kota Intan Bridge

An old street in Batavia town

Stadhuis of Batavia building now used as a historical museum Not so long after the new town was established, Batavia sprawled on to the opposite side of the river over the debris of the old Jayakarta town, and to the south of the city at Medeka Square, where today the National Monument is located. Inside Batavia town, The English built a bridge across the Ciliwung River in 1628 to link the British Fort to the opposite side, which was Dutch territory. The bridge was call “English Bridge” but lasted only one year, before the previous owner of the land, the Banten, razed it to the river because they felt it indignant. However, the Dutch rebuilt the bridge the following year, known among the locals as “Chicken Market Bridge”. In 1655, the Dutch had restored the bridge again and called it “Center Bridge” until 1938, then it was changed to function as a drawbridge and renamed “Kota Intan.” During the golden years of the Dutch colonial era, Fatahillah Square was the major government area of Batavia, where the Stadhuis of Batavia building is situated, and used as the city hall by the Dutch government. At present, the old building has been renovated and opened up to the public as a Historical Museum for Jakarta’s past. Next to the city hall of Batavia is the Church of Batavia, built in Dutch architectural style, it now serves

Fatahillah Square

as the Wayang Museum, showcasing Indonesia’s shadow figures. Within the nearby area of the Fatahillah Square are some other historical buildings reflecting colonial architecture that are available to visit. Unfortunately, most of the old buildings are left abandoned in a dilapidated condition. Despite the decree officially issued in 1972 by the governor of Jakarta to protect the old area of Batavia as the heritage town, nothing much has been done. Café Batavia, located on one corner of the square, has a very powerful appeal, tempting tourists to get inside and explore, due to its nostalgic decoration flashing back to the Dutch era. While sipping Java coffee, I observed many local people gathered in the square for their weekend activities, especially teenagers. A group of university students were busy shooting fashion photos, and preferred to choose old colonial property for their background, while an Indonesian couple posed for their wedding photos on a bicycle in front of the ancient wall of the town. Although a huge amount of money is needed to restore Batavia town, the youngsters I saw (the new generation of Indonesia), still hope for the salvation of their history in the near future.

Clockwise from above: an Indonesian teenboy walks pass an old bar in Batavia town; an Indonesian couple poses for their wedding photos on a bicycle in front of the ancient window; an old-fashion signboard of an entertainment venue in the old town

The colonial era at Batavia came to an end in 1942, when the Japanese occupied Indonesia during World War II and renamed Batavia to “Jakarta.” At the same time, Indonesian Republicans withdrew from allied-occupied Jakarta during their fight for Indonesian independence, and established their capital in Yogyakarta. In 1950 after independence was secured, President Sukarno returned to the nation’s capital city in Jakarta, and envisaged it as a great international city, with major streets, a new parliament, hotels, and the National Monument. Nowadays, the government of Indonesia attempts to promote tourism in Jakarta through the presentation of a new city image, with various kinds of tourism products and services available. The city is now offering modern shopping malls, accommodation, entertainment, golf courses, dining venues, and a cultural center for its increasing visitors. The city slogan “Enjoy Jakarta” now completely flips the old image of Jakarta, where political violence and tumult was common place, has been transformed into a city of joy that deserves exploration! 70

EATEAST | INDONESIA

story & photos: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

CafĂŠ Batavia Dine in a Colonial Way

he first impression for anyone stepping into the early 19th century two-storey building where Café Batavia is housed, is the interior decoration, with several hundred photo frames hanging on every wall, and in each corner of every room. Frame by frame the picture collection around the place makes this restaurant an eye-catching experience for visitors Located at the Fatahillah Square, Jakarta’s historic site of previous colonial glory, Café Batavia is a unique restaurant and café in Indonesia, offering a grandeur dinning experience set within an unequaled historic setting. The second floor of the restaurant is set as the Grand Salon dining area, furnished with antique table sets and sofas. The room provides a great view over the historic square of Fatahillah, opposite the City Hall from the Dutch colonial era. As one of Jakarta’s finest restaurants, Café Batavia serves several selections of fine cuisine from its elegant menu, along with some award-winning wines and cocktails. Café Batavia also offers a selection of fresh ground coffee, and local Java coffee, a tasty ‘pick-me-up’ to help you make the most of your leisure time. Café Batavia is one of city’s most famous nightspots. Visitors to Jakarta should try to visit this café for a truly unique experience.

Café Batavia

Taman Fatahillah, Kota, Jakarta, Indonesia Tel. (62-21) 691-5531, 691-5334 Fax (62-21) 692-3842 www.cafebatavia.com Open from 8:00 to 14:00 Monday-Friday Weekends - Open 24 hours!

gourmetmonthly

Savour At Ming Court Restaurant

Ming Court by the award wining executive Chinese chef Tsang, has prepared a gastronomic five-course degustation menu, featuring the restaurant’s most exquisite dishes. Commencing with a tantalizing appetiser of jellyfish, spicy chicken and suckling pig. This is followed by a shark-fin flight, featuring shark-fin prepared four different ways. There’s also stir-fried sliced grouper, deep-fried lobster with cheese set with simmered abalone, and to finish: The celebrated shark-fin crystal extravagance.   The menu is HK$998+10% per person (minimum two people). Chef Tsang says he will continue to offer the degustation as long as his customers keep asking him for it.   For information of Langham Place, Mongkok, Hong Kong, please visit: http:// hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com

“Dining with Stars” Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong’s Angelini and Nadaman have been selected as two of the 50 finest restaurants in “Dining With Stars”. The project is organised by the glossy monthly Hong Kong Tatler, and supported by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, to unveil Hong Kong’s gourmet paradise.   The Angelini Italian restaurant delivers authentic Italian cuisine using only the finest ingredients of the season, accompanied with an extensive wine list of over 100 Italian wines. Situated on the mezzanine floor with panoramic views of Victoria Harbour, and the Hong Kong Island skyline. Angelini combines a comfortable and inviting ambiance, with stylish contemporary decor. For reservations, please call 2733 8750.   Located on lower level two, Nadaman’s interior incorporates strong Japanese flavours with a contemporary twist, combining a range of Japanese dining experiences within one restaurant. Nadaman’s main dining area includes a

sushi bar, double Teppanyaki grills, and a private Teppanyaki room. The Teppanyaki room, seating up to 16 people, is also known as the T-room due to its long T-shaped table with a Teppanyaki grill at the end, and features a cooking theatre with a dedicated “chef in action”. A divisible deluxe private dining room, and the tatami room are also available. Please call 2733 8751 for reservations.   For more information or reservations, please contact a travel professional or access the website at www.shangri-la.com.

THE FIFTH Food Avenue

MBK Center presents ‘new comer of the month’ as Metro, the fusion food shop. Serving you with variety of foods such as Jumbo Shrimp Cocktails,  Garlic Clams with bread, Tuna with wasabi cream sauce, Cookies and Cream Moose, Non fat yogurt, and many other taste tingling varieties.   THE FIFTH Food Avenue, located on the 5th floor of the MBK Center, will satisfy your hunger for international food, and provide you with a warm, friendly welcome. For more information please contact +66 2620 9812 to 14.

healthbulletins

Talise Wellness Signatures Treat yourself with any of the luxurious Talise Wellness signature rituals, and receive a complementary Talise robe worth AED 650. Talise Wellness Day Pass Enjoy a whole day of relaxing and pampering at Talise Wellness spa with a 50 minute Fingerprint Facial or Fingerprint Massage, beach access, and a two-course lunch or dinner at Magnolia. Pricing: AED 795 per person

Talise Wellness Morning Ritual Start your day with yoga on the beach, followed by a relaxing 50 minute Fingerprint Massage. Timings: starts at 8.00am Pricing: AED 465 per person For more information, please contact Talise Wellness at Madinat Jumeirah Tel. No: +971 4 366 6818 Email: mj-talise@jumeirah.com

Santiburi Herbal Bath Special

Santiburi Herbal Bath at Santiburi Golf Resort and Spa proposes a special price of 800 Baht (net) for singles or couples.  A 15-20 minute soak in one of our Thai herbal baths, which use the healing properties of plants, consisting of concentrated natural essential oils necessary to “the immune system of the plant”, which produce some truly beneficial effects for bathers. Guests can enjoy and relax with these three special choices:

The Romance Bath Ritual: Reconnect with yourself and soak away the cares of the day in this beautiful blend of nurturing oils and herbs.  Ground lavender calms the mind and body, a perfect complement to Sandalwood’s ability to induce meditation and calm   The Santiburi Bath Ritual: Submerge yourself in a bath soak that will revitalize and encourage circulation for a tired mind and body.  You will emerge feeling refreshed, clear headed, and completely invigorated.   The Awaken Bath Ritual: A relaxing Rose Milk bath soothes and moisturizes dry skin, leaving you luxuriously hydrated, and gently exfoliated.  This bath brings relief for those suffering from irritated skin conditions.   For more information, please contact +66 7742 5031-8 or spasb@santiburi.com

Sweet Memories with Escape! Romance Package

Spend some cherished moments with the one you love, with a delightful “Escape! Romance” package at Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa. This wonderful package will allow you to escape the chaos of the city together, and create some sweet memories of serenity and love.   The Escape! Romance package includes one luxury night’s accommodation in a Deluxe or Deluxe River View Room at Bangkok’s only true resort, majestically located on the banks of the Chaophraya River. Awaken to fabulous views of the river or the resort’s lush tropical garden, before enjoying a romantic breakfast in bed, complete with a decadent morning kiss from the bubbles of a bottle of sparkling wine.   Rates for the Deluxe rooms start from Baht 6,400++ (per room, per night) for a single room or double room, valid from now until March 31st, 2009.   Rates for the Deluxe River View rooms start from Baht 7,200++ (per room, per night) in a single room or double room, valid from now to March 31st, 2009.   Note: The above rates are available subject to availability. All rates are subject to a 10% service charge, and 7% government tax. For special room rates call our Central Reservations Office at (66) 2 477 0755 or email us at reservemarriott@minornet.com   75

ASIA PACIFIC | AUSTRALIA story & photos : Philip Game

TIWI DREAMING Off the ‘Top End’ of Australia an historic and isolated community displays with pride its judicious blend of traditional and modern values.

ack in 1911 when the worthy missionary Father Gsell, a native of Alsace-Lorraine, stepped ashore on Bathurst Island off the northern coast of Australia, he could never in his wildest dreams have imagined one day becoming master of a harem of one hundred and fifty aboriginal maidens. The story of the Bishop’s harem is just part of the colourful history of the two Tiwi islands - Bathurst and Melville - 80 kilometres offshore from Darwin ,capital of the Northern Territory (and closer to South-East Asia than to Sydney). 76

The two islands, separated by the narrow Apsley Strait, are aboriginal land to which casual visits are not usually possible; but the Tiwi part-own a Darwin company which organises tours to Bathurst Island. Melville had already played host to the ill-fated Fort Dundas, the first European settlement in northern Australia which was established in 1824. The settlement was abandoned after five years, and little evidence remains of its passing. The Tiwi are an Australian aboriginal people whose uniquely matri-

archal culture evolved in isolation from the mainland over thousands of years. These Aborigines knew no boomerangs, spear throwers - or kangaroos - but did develop distinctive art forms, including the carved and painted pukamani grave poles prized by museums and collectors worldwide. For many years the missionaries found the going tough, for the Tiwi were deeply enmeshed in a complex web of belief, kinship and custom, and Francis Xavier Gsell was deter-

Aboriginal hunter extracting a goanna from a log , Tiwi Islands, NT, Australia

Tiwi Pukamani or burial poles in the Catholic mission chapel at Nguiu, Bathurst Island, Northern Territory

Sunset over the pandanus palms, Melville Island, NT, Australia

mined to accept into his church only those who had truly renounced “pagan” ways. These nomadic hunters and gatherers grouped themselves into fiercely territorial clans, and fundamental to their way of life was a rigid system of arranged marriage. Newborn girls were betrothed to much older men, in a polygamous web binding the eventual groom to his future fathers in law. At puberty a girl was claimed by a man not of her choice, and old enough to be her father. Wealth was measured in wives. Father Gsell soldiered on without a single baptism, until at dusk one evening in 1921, ten-yearold Martina ran up to his door. Martina was a rebel, fleeing her “hairy old leprous” husband, aged 35, and his other 12 wives, and her plea for sanctuary precipitated a crisis.

Armed tribesmen gathered to demand Martina’s return. Father Gsell sought guidance from above and was rewarded with the inspiration that he, too, could buy a woman. Laying out a selection of trade goods - knives, axes, mirrors - he invited the belligerents to do business. The deal was done. Martina was his, his bride by Tiwi custom. And so the Bishop with 150 Wives began to build his congregation on

Bathurst Island. Once “divorced” by Father Gsell, the girls became more or less free to choose their own husbands, within the limits of customary law on blood relationships. Today’s Tiwi struggle to select the best from each way of life; chronic illness is rife, including rampant kidney disease linked with infant malnutrition and poor diet. Kinship and clan obligations remain strong, and impede the acceptance of conventional Australian concepts of responsibility. 77

Pukamani poles at a graveyard on Bathurst Island, Tiwi Islands, NT, Australia

Schooling is universal, but stringent custom still segregates pubescent brothers and sisters. No longer are the home and possessions of a deceased person burnt, the old custom has been refined to a ritual of smoking out those places frequented by the spirit of the departed. Hunting for “bush tucker” remains the favourite weekend pursuit although day to day supplies are bought at the community store - together with alcohol, but only from a sole licensed club, under stringent conditions imposed by the community’s elected council. Our guide Michael Allen had lived five years amongst the Tiwi and offered an illuminating introduction to the community and its cottage industries: pottery, screen-printed fabrics and traditional crafts. Michael asked us to consider for a moment the changes confronting a 30 year old Tiwi: only within his lifetime have the telephone, cash wages, electric power and reticulated water been introduced. As if to illustrate this point, Michael introduced Paul, a well built, soft spoken man of about thirty. Paul was diffident until we touched upon his keen interest in the Australian Rules football followed so passionately in southern cities, for several champions have arisen from amongst the Tiwi. Nguiu (“wee-ou”) on Bathurst Island, is the major settlement, a community of 1200. The timber church built in 1941 is now a cornerstone of the community, its interior decorated lovingly with traditional motifs. Services are some-

times held out of doors to fit more comfortably with Tiwi values. We shared a pot of tea with three craftswomen, Mary Margaret, Rhonda and Della, weaving pandanus armbands and decorating mangrove mussel shells in browns and whites. Building on this living tradition of handcrafts are the successful Tiwi pottery, the Tiwi Designs screen printing workshop and Bima Wear, a designer and manufacturer of fabrics and garments owned and operated entirely by Tiwi women. A short launch trip across the Apsley Strait landed our party on Melville Island. Forty dry, dusty minutes inland, we joined local people in a dip in the natural pool fed by mineral springs at Taracumbie Falls. A short flight by nine-seater Piper Cherokee, north along the Apsley Strait between Melville and Bathurst Islands brought us to the dusty airstrip at Pularumpi, an attractive township where residents stroll between riotous bougainvillea, frangipani and hibiscus in the cool of late afternoon. After Tasmania, Melville is Australia’s next largest island, and from the air the bush stretches as far as the eye can see, interrupted only by arrowstraight roads of red earth, by the man-made squares of cypress pine plantations and by sinuous mangrove-lined channels. Our safari camp was a private paradise perched on low cliffs of brick red ochre above a beach of creamy quartz. There were just two house rules: shoes off at the door, and stay off the beach after dark - box jellyfish and

Pukamani poles commemorating deceased ancestors, from the Tiwi Islands, Northern Territory, Australia

saltwater crocodiles are ever-present. A three course dinner began in style with the largest and freshest tiger prawns I’ve ever savoured, char-grilled to perfection. By early morning the sun was a hot orange ball. After breakfast and a little individual beachcombing the group was introduced to Romuald and his friend Neil, hunters both, and Jovita, Carol and tousle-haired five year-old Charlene in their simple cotton shifts, gatherers of strange and wondrous foods from beaches and mangrove swamps.

Font decorated with Tiwi aboriginal motifs at the Catholic mission chapel in Nguiu, Bathurst Island, Northern Territory

Aboriginal craftswomen, Bathurst Island, Tiwi Islands, NT, Australia

Armed with pocket mirrors and steel axes, the two men led off through open woodland, the undergrowth recovering from recent scrub fires and cyclones. The purpose of the pocket mirrors was soon revealed - to inspect each hollow log for hideaway possum and goanna. A target selected, axes flew as Neil and Romuald chopped systematically through the logs. Romuald reached in to extract a writhing goanna one metre long. Lunch! Returning to camp with two reptiles swinging by their tails, we found the women tending a cooking fire. Goannas were tossed onto the glowing coals. Wrapped in paperbark sheets, blackened shellfish (mussels and â&#x20AC;&#x153;longbumâ&#x20AC;?, whelks perhaps), collected that morning from nearby mangrove swamps, then baked.

The goanna tasted just like slightly stringy chicken and the mussels would have been a credit to any seafood chef! With the promise of turtle eggs we trudged off again along dazzling sands, treacherous waters glinting under a china-blue sky, only to trudge back emptyhanded. Back at camp, long grey worms, translucent and slimy, had been extracted from the mangrove stems. Shut your eyes .... a texture and flavour remarkably like finest fresh oyster! Aloft again, on the way back to Darwin - and it was fitting that the last sight we saw, touching down on Bathurst Island after a brief downpour, was a gaggle of small brown bodies cavorting in rainwater pools without a care in the world.

Further information: Aboriginal Australia Tours & Travel www.aboriginalaustralia.com.au Aussie Adventure www.aussieadventure.com.au Tiwi Islands Local Government www.tilg.nt.gov.au All visitors to Australia require a visa, visit www.eta. immi.gov.au/ETAAus1En.html for details. Qantas, JetStar, Virgin Blue and Tiger Airways offer nonstop scheduled services between Darwin and other Australian cities. Jetstar and Tiger Airways operate from Darwin to Singapore. Northern Territory Holiday Helpline visit www.ntholidays.com Call 13 61 10 within Australia or +61 8 8951 8492 from overseas. All visitors require a visa or Electronic Travel Authority arranged through authorised travel agents. Aust. dollar is freely convertible and currently around 33 pence although rates often vary.

Island Lodging | koh kooD

Away Resort Escape Everyday Life

way Resort, located on the west coast of Koh Kood at Klongchao Beach which is famous for its crystal clear water, is the epitome of the island and a perfect hideaway. The resort features spacious luxury bungalow villas, with private terraces and sea views from almost every room. The stylish lodging has the largest activity and dive center on the island, so guests can enjoy not only the beauty and peacefulness of the resort, but also everything the island has to offer. Catering to guests that feel the need to escape from their fast paced stressful lifestyles, the resort offers guests every opportunity to truly slowdown, unwind, relax and enjoy their island holiday on Koh Kood (Located 82 kilometers off the coast of Trat Province on the Gulf of Thailand.) The combination of peaceful surroundings and the numerous activities or adventures offered by the resort, provide the perfect balance for a relaxing and fun vacation.

DR.SUNIL DENTAL CLINIC Open everyday

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ARTropical

‘Looking Dog . . . Dog Looking’. . . the Abandoned Beauty Way of Joyous Life

First solo exhibition by Theerayuth Suebtim The Silom Galleria Art Space, B1 Floor 8 - 31 Jan. 2009   For the last 16 years, Theerayuth Suebtim has spent his life in Chiang Mai, experiencing the beautiful way of life for ethnic people in the heights. Most of them have a better life than before, due to the support  from numerous royal projects. His inspiration has then been transferred to his creative watercolor paintings, which reflect a feeling of joy and peacefulness.   Info: www.silomart.com/theerayuth, +66 86 600 3906, +66 2630 3381

The Splendour of Nature Reflecting the Unforgettable Life of Charoon Boonsuan by Charoon Boonsuan

THE GALLERY, The Silom Galleria, Unit B06-07, B1 Floor 21 Jan. - 15 Feb. 2009   For the last 16 years, Theerayuth Suebtim has spent his life in Chiang Mai, experiencing the beautiful way of life for ethnic people in the heights. Most of them have a better life than before, due to the support  from numerous royal projects. His inspiration has then been transferred to his creative watercolor paintings, which reflect a feeling of joy and peacefulness.   Info: www.silomart.com/theerayuth, +66 86 600 3906, +66 2630 3381 82

The latest contemporary work of art by Vittaya Sudprasert Gossip Gallery on Sukhumvit 28 17 Dec. 2008 – 18 Jan. 2009   Inspired by just a single random glance of a stray dog, Vittaya’s entire collection of 25 acrylic paintings depict more than just the physical condition of the canine subjects. They portray each animal’s broken spirit. In Vittaya’s own words, ‘when I looked at these dogs, I really felt sorry for each of them’. Some of them were beaten and badly injured, or even crippled by irresponsible human acts, resulting from misguided attempts at fun. Some of them were frail and on the brink of death due to malnutrition.’   The artist hopes that this collection will serve as a reminder to everyone to think twice about the responsibility they will have to take on when deciding to buy a dog, cat, or any type of animal to be raised as a domestic pet.   Info: 66 2258 6247, 66 85 166 5678, 66 81 440-3896 | gossipgallerybkk.com | gossipgallery@gmail.com.

The Graceful Contradiction

By Somphop Saengprom Number 1 Gallery, B1 floor, Silom Galleria Buliding 15 Jan. 2008 - 8 Feb. 2009   Realistic painting earns its popular character for being accessible to all, and not too difficult to comprehend. It’s a form of art that is touchable, personally integrated, and a straightforward reflection of reality. Which is probably why Somphop Saengprom’s realism works have always been found to be popular and interesting for both rookie and veteran art spectators.   Sompop is back, with visibly more intensity, experience, and skill in his latest solo exhibition, ‘The Graceful Contradiction’, depicting images of crystal clear detail in paintings of rocks and pebbles in the creek, with a sparkling tide flowing through. Fitted in a perfect composition, the artist brilliantly creates the vision of maidens, using delicate gestures among the surrounding nature, where rocks, waving trees and silky tides are combined, harmoniously composed to show their subtle and natural beauty.    Info: www.number1gallery.com, +66 81 567 9671, +66 2630 3381

Siam Scenes

Perishable Beauty Exhibition@TCDC, Gallery 2 The Emporium Shopping Complex 622 Sukhumvit 24 Until 22 Feb. 2009   Anti-ageing creams, cosmetic surgery, botox, stem cell therapies, and even World Heritage sites – all are symbols of our struggle to conquer our impermanence. How do we create business opportunities out of the perishable beauty around us?   Billions of dollars are spent in industries of “rot” and “decay”, even as the world economy sinks into a recession.     Come and experience an exhibition that literally perishes before your very eyes. Exchange glances with an Egyptian mummy – man’s earliest attempt at immortality. Ponder the meaning of black holes – the beginning and end of all cosmic life. Relive the ancient search for youth and beauty, and discover the success story of the world’s largest wholesale market of impermanence.   Info: +66 2664 8448

By a group of 5 artists Number 1 Gallery, The Silom Galleria, B1,Bangkok 4 Dec. 2008 - 4 Jan. 2009   Number 1 Gallery presents the exhibition “Siam Scenes” by a group of 5 artists; each has a unique individuality, with different personal signatures in all past works. The continuity of these artist’s creations have been developed and reconciled in the distinctive styles of each and every artist.   Netikorn Shinyo is back, this time with the King’s portraits and the life-story of Buddha, Pichai Nirund, 2003 national artist in Visual Arts with Buddhist Art, Preecha Thaothong with the unique work of light and shade, Teerawat Kanama conveys the stories of the surrounding rural life, and Jintana Piamsiri, the only female artist, telling the stories of local ways of life in an urban context and void space.   Info: www.number1gallery.com, +66 81 567 9671, +66 2630 3381.

Urban Reflects Photo exhibition by Florence Notté Art Loft Gallery, 249 Alexandra Road, 159935 Singapore 18 Jan. - 10 Feb. 2009 Florence Notté captures the beauty of the infinite reflections that are found on most modern buildings: “I was inspired by David Hockney’s swimming pools, as well as the Hitchcock’s Rear Window.... glimpses of daily lives, swimmers, but also the sky above and other buildings can be seen in a new light through urban reflections”. The photographer was able to capture images from the streets of Paris, that are comparable to the contemporary abstract works of Miro, Giacometti, Dubuffet, and Klein… This series, which was awarded a Creativity Prize by the French Photographer Federation, will also be a part of the Urban Reflects Singapore exhibit. Since moving to Singapore from Paris, Florence has found parallels between the two cities, and exploits those in her abstract work. Info: www.florencenotte.com.

See what’s happening in Singapore today at: www.singaporesights.com

Flower Discourse

Solo Exhibition by Pramual Thungprue Jamjuee Art Gallery, Chulalongkorn University 22 Dec. 2008 – 6 Jan. 2009   Showcasing over 30 paintings with a variety of oil techniques displayed on canvas, the exhibition “Flower Discourse” was inspired by the artist’s joyful memories from when he was young, when he saw the beauty of flowers bloom every December, which made him fall in love with natural forms and colors.   Info: 66 81440 8129.

Tropical Top Cities FAST INFO Thailand

BANGKOK

Since this “City of Angels” is welcoming and wide open to people from any country and culture, tourists will find that it’s very interesting, exciting and fun to stay in Bangkok. In fact, the city has a wide variety of attractions and activities to please all types of tourists. You can learn about Thai history, beliefs, architecture, and culture by wandering around temples, museums, and streets in the Rattanakosin Island area. Witness the lifestyle of Thai-Chinese and Thai-Indian generations in the vibrant area of Chinatown. Shop and enjoy the wild nightlife on famous Khao San, Silom, and Sukhumvit roads, or relax and let yourself be spoiled by service-minded staff in one of the many world-renowned hotels and spas.

Best Time

* Vimanmek Mansion, the world’s largest golden teakwood mansion * Jim Thompson’s House * Chinatown Area * Siam Niramit show, a world-class performance of Thailand’s arts and cultural heritage

Shopping Spots

There’re zillions of street vendors, shops and shopping malls for tourists to shop in Bangkok. The most famous shopping places for tourists are Chatuchak Weekend Market, Siam Paragon, MBK Centre, Platinum Mall, Bangkok Night Bazaar, Khao San and Silom Roads.

Nightlife

Khao San, Silom, and Sukhumvit roads

November-February. April is quite warm and is only recommended for those who want to experience Songkran Festival (the Thai New Year celebration) which is held annually on April 13. If you visit in May-October expect more rain.

Travel Agencies

Getting There/Around

Diethelm Travel Thailand 140/1 Wireless Road, 12th Fl. Kian Gwan Building II +66 (0) 2660 7000

Bangkok is a major Southeast Asian travel hub, so there are plenty of direct flights from capital cities in Asia, Australia, Canada, continental Europe, the UK and USA. To get to the city from Bangkok’s new Suvarnabhumi Airport, travelers can take airport taxis and conditioned buses and vans. Streets in Bangkok are packed most of the time, but, because the city has a variety of transportation, like sky-trains, subways, metered-taxis, 3-wheeled motorcycles (Tuk Tuk), boats, and public air-conditioned and non air-conditioned buses, getting around is generally inexpensive, easy, and convenient for those who do their homework.

Top Attractions

* Rattanakosin Island, including Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), and Khao San Road

Exotissimo 6th Floor, Zuellig House 1-7 Silom Road, Bangkok +66 (0) 2636 0360 www.exotissimo.com

Turismo Asia 511 Soi 6, Sri-Ayuthaya Rd., Bangkok +66 (0) 2245 1551 www.turismoasia.com

Tourist Information

Tourism Division: +66 (0) 2225 7612-4 Tourism Authority of Thailand (Hotline): 1672 Tourist Police: 1155 Immigration Division: +66 (0) 2287-3101-10

Currency

Baht (THB)

Time Zone

GMT/UTC + 7

Thailand

KANCHANABURI

Located at the confluence of the rivers Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai, Kanchanaburi is home to the world renowned site of the Bridge over the River Kwai, the start of the infamous World War II Death Railway to Burma (Myanmar), with its War Museums and War Cemeteries. Besides the historical sites, the province also has many natural attractions like waterfalls and wildlife sanctuaries where tourists can enjoy the beauty of nature as well as adventurous activities, especially rafting and trekking.

* Erawan Waterfall, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand situated in Erawan National Park. The 1,500 m. cascade of water breaks up into seven steps in its downward rush, with each sheltering a profusion of plant life, including wild orchids. * Rafting down the rivers * Prommitr Film Studio, the production site of M.C. Chatrichalerm Yukol’s big-budget trilogy “The Legend of King Naresuan.” Open daily (10am-5pm). For more info, 0 2736 2300, www.prommitrfilmstudio.com.

Best Time

Shopping Spots

Getting There/Around

Travel Agencies

November - January Kanchanaburi is about 2 hours drive from Bangkok, via Highway No.4 (Phetkasem). There’re non air-conditioned buses and first class air-conditioned buses leaving Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (www. transport.co.th) to Kanchanaburi daily. Ordinary trains leave Bangkok’s Thon Buri Railway Station (Bangkok Noi Station: +66 (0) 2411 3102) daily. Only 3rd class seats are available and the journey takes 3 hours. The weekend special train leaves Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) at 6.30am, returning at 7.55pm. There’re also special steam trains that operate between Kanchanaburi and Wang Pho. For more info, call the State Railway of Thailand at tel. 1690 or visit www.railway.co.th.

The main means of transport within the city are bicycles, motorcycles, and cars. They can be rented at several outlets such as shops, guesthouses, and hotels.

Top Attractions

* Bridge over the River Kwai (the Death Railway Bridge). A week-long carnival (River Kwai Bridge Week) is held in the last week of November to the beginning of December every year. * Sangkhla Buri District. Visit Vajiralongkorn Dam, an attractive reservoir with beautiful scenery, a submerged ancient temple, and Mon villages.

Shop for jewels in Bo Phloi District. Good Times Travel Service 63/1 Mae Nam Kwai Rd. A. Muang, Kanchanaburi +66 (0) 34 624 441, (0) 81 913 7758 www.good-times-travel.com Email: good_times_travel@hotmail.com Nutty’s Adventures 17 Soi Wachirathamsatit 35, Sukhumvit 101/1 Bangkok +66 (0) 2746 1414, 2746 1287 www.nutty-adventures.com Email: nutty.chillies@gmail.com

Tourist Information:

Tourism Authority of Thailand (Hotline): 1672 Tourist Police: 1155

Currency

Baht (THB)

Time Code GMT/UTC +7

Myanmar

Vietnam

YA NGON

The former capital city of Myanmar, Yangon means “End of Strife.” It is a city where the Buddhist faith still holds fast. Tourists will find themselves impressed by the number of Buddhists who come to pray and meditate at Yangon’s spectacular Buddhist temples, stupas, and pagodas, especially at the great Shwedagon Pagoda. Besides those highlights, Yangon also has attractive natural sights such as Inya Lake, the Zoological Garden, and Mahabandoola Garden where tourists can relax and enjoy a great view of the City Hall and colonial buildings of British Rangoon.

Best Time

November-February

Getting There/Around

Yangon International Airport (Mingladon) (RGN) is located approximately 30 minutes north of the city centre. There are direct flights to RGN from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and Taipei. The only transport between the airport and the city centre is by taxi.

HANOI

* Sule Pagoda, the landmark at the Yangon City center and symbol of downtown Yangon. It is a 46-meter tall octagonal-shaped stupa that houses a strand of Buddha’s hair (open daily; 4am-10pm) * Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda, home of Chauk Htat Gyi, the 72-meter long reclining Buddha image (open 6am-8pm) * Colonial Buildings in and around the city * Kyiaktiyo, a huge golden boulder stupa that is delicately balanced on the edge of a cliff at the top of Mt. Kyiakto

Shopping Spots

Bogyoke Aung San Market, the most famous shopping place in Yangon

Nightlife

Yangon Chinatown, bars and nightclubs in 5-star hotels

Travel Agencies

Located on the right bank of the Red River (Song Hong), Hanoi is the capital and cultural centre of Vietnam. Even though some relics have been destroyed through wars and time, the city has many interesting cultural and historic monuments as well as museums for visitors to wander around. In fact, it hosts more cultural sites than any city in Vietnam, including over 600 pagodas and temples. The city is also a gateway to Halong Bay, the World Heritage Site and Vietnam’s most famous natural attraction.

Best Time

Late June through August and October through Tet, the New Year’s celebration that takes place in late January or early February.

Getting There/Around

Noi Bai International Airport is located 35 km north of Hanoi. It is the only international airport for the northern regions of Vietnam and the second largest of three international airports in the country. The airport serves cities in Asia and Europe with regular flights to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Vietnamese architecture and an interesting introduction to Confucianism. * Thang Long Water Puppet Theater * Halong Bay, Vietnam’s most famous natural attraction, located in the Gulf of Tonkin, 170 km east of Hanoi (2 hours drive)

Shopping Spots

The Old Quarter, Hang Gai (Silk Street), Nha Tho (Cathedral Street)

Nightlife

Around the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake or West Lake, Thang Long Water Puppet Theater, Hanoi Opera House (Municipal Theater)

Travel Agencies

Grand Tours Unit 507, Commercial & Service Centre 133 Thai Ha Street, Hanoi, Vietnam +84 (0) 4537 4292 www.grandtoursvietnam.com

Tourist Information

Hanoi Tourist Information Center: +84 (0) 4926 3366 Hanoi Tourism Offices: +84 (0) 4826 1627 Marketing Office: +84 (0) 4824 2330

Zarmani Creative Tours 34 D/9, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road Bahan Township, Yangon, Myanmar +95 (1) 701049 / 552717

The main means of transport within the city are motorbikes, buses, taxis, bicycles, and cyclos (cycle rickshaws).

Currency

Tourist Information

Top Attractions

Time Zone

Taxis are the best transport to get around the city. They can be hired at daily or weekly rates. Motorbikes and bicycles are not permitted within Yangon. Sidecars or three-wheel bicycle-taxis can be used only for short journeys.

* The Old Quarter * Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Hanoi Opera House in Ba Dinh District (the French Quarter) * Temple of Literature, Vietnam’s first university-- a rare example of traditional

Top Attractions

Currency

* Shwedagon Pagoda, a 100-meter tall gilded stupa that houses relics of the past four Buddhas. It is Myanmar’s foremost pilgrimage site (open daily; 4am-10pm)

Tourist Centres (Yangon Office): +95 (1) 252859 www.myanmar-tourism.com www.myanmartourismservices.com www.myanmartravelinformation.com

Dong (VND) GMT/UTC +7

Kyat (MMK)

Time Zone

GMT/UTC +6.5

Tropical Top Cities FAST INFO Singapore

Malaysia

Singapore CITY KUALA LUMPUR

Singapore is a leading destination for both business and pleasure. The city contains a number of business areas, mega shopping malls, fine restaurants, and enchanting tourist spots. Despite its compact size, the city seems to have things going on all the time. Its Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay is one of the world’s busiest art centers where various kinds of performances and art exhibitions by both local and international artists are presented. Log on to www.visitsingapore.com for the schedule of events in Singapore.

Best Time

All year round

Getting There/Around

Often voted one of the best airports in the world, Singapore’s Changi International Airport has numerous flights from/to countries around the world. Tourists from Thailand and Malaysia can enter Singapore via train. There are 2 train services available: the luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express and the KTM train (from Malaysia only). There are also many inexpensive buses operating between Malaysia and Singapore.

* Jurong Bird Park, a home to over 8,000 birds of 600 species from all over the world * Sentosa Island and Underwater World * Singapore Zoo & Night Safari

Shopping Spots

Orchard Road, City Hall Area, Sim Lim Square, Mustafa Centre, Chinatown, Little India

Nightlife

Clarke Quay, Boat Quay, Robertson Quay, Orchard Road, Mohamed Sultan Road, Holland Village, Tanglin Village

Travel Agencies

Chan Brothers Travel Pte Ltd 150 South Bridge Rd., Fook Hai Building +65 6438 8880, www.chanbrothers.com

Kuala Lumpur, or KL as it is commonly known, is an affluent modern Asian capital situated midway along the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia. With a perfect blend of old cultures and modern lifestyles, the city offers an abundance of sites and attractions for tourists, ranging from offbeat skyscrapers, well-preserved historical and religious buildings, to wonderful nature. It is also a gateway to Genting Highlands, a self-proclaimed City of Entertainment, where the only legal casino in Malaysia is located.

Best Time

Year round (Check out special events at www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my)

Getting There/Around

Singapore has an efficient public transportation network of taxis, buses, and the modern Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) rail system, making it very easy and convenient for tourists to travel to/around the city.

Singapore Visitors Centre @ Suntec City: 1800 332 5066 Police: 999 (toll-free) STB Touristline (24-hr automated tourist information system): 1800 736 2000 (toll-free in Singapore only) City Search (operator-assisted Yellow Pages): +65 1900 777 7777

Kaula Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) takes all international flights to and from KL. Low-cost airline passengers will land at the Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCCT), which is 20 km away from the main Terminal Building. From the airport to the city, travelers can take the non-stop KLIA Ekspres train (28 min, RM35/adult/trip), the KLIA Transit train (35 min, RM35/adult/trip), express coaches (1-1½ hours, RM20/adult/trip), public buses (2 hours, RM9/adult/trip), or taxis (rates vary according to the destination zones). To get around the city, travelers can take taxi, KTM Komuter service, LRT (Light Rail Transit), and KL Monorail.

Top Attractions

Currency

Top Attractions

* 45-Minute Bumboat Ride along the Singapore River * The Merlion, the symbol of Singapore, at the mouth of the Singapore River right across from the Esplanade

STA Travel Opposite the DHL Helium Balloon at Bugis Junction +65 6737 7188, www.statravel. com.sg

Tourist Information

Singapore Dollar (SGD)

Time Zone

GMT/UTC+8

* Petronas Twin Towers (www.petronas. com.my/petronas), one of the world’s tallest buildings * KL Tower’s observation deck * The historic colonial district and Chinatown (walking trail brochures are available at Badan Warisan Malaysai, www.badan-

warisan.org.my) * Bird Park in the Lake Gardens * Islamic Arts Museum and National Art Gallery & Theatre

Shopping Spots

Suria KLCC Shopping Centre, Berjaya Times Square, Central Market, Chinatown, Kompleks Kraf (The National Craft Centre)

Nightlife

Bangsar, Bukit Bintang Street, Phileo Promenade

Travel Agencies

Mayflower Mayflower Building, 18, Jalan Segambut Pusat, KL +603-6253 1888 www.mayflower.com.my World Express Malaysia 2.8 Angkasa Raya Building Jalan Ampang, KL +603 2148 9601 www.worldexpress.travel

Tourist Information:

Malaysian Tourist Information Complex: +603 2164 3929 Tourism Malaysia: +603 2693 5188 www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my KL Train Station: +603 2274 6063

Currency

Malaysian Ringgit (RM)

Time Code

GMT/UTC +8

Lao P.D.R.

Cambodia

LUANG PRABANG SIEMREAP

Luang Prabang is famous for its laid-back atmosphere and do-nothing lifestyle, yet the city itself is filled with cultural heritage sites that give visitors a glimpse of the ancient capital city of the Lan Xang Kingdom and traditional Southeast Asian life. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995, the city is unspeakably beautiful and peaceful. Its simple way of life, traditional costumes, and kind-hearted people leave all visitors spellbound.

Though the name of Angkor Wat in Angkor Archaeological Park is not listed on the New Seven Wonders of the World, the temple is still one of the places in the world that is most worth visiting. Apart from the Angkor Wat, Siem Reap has many other aesthetically built temples like Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Srei, along with natural attractions and exotic culture that will amaze your eyes and bring you a truly unforgettable experience.

Best Time

November - February

Getting There/Around

Luang Prabang International Airport has flights from/to Vientiane, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Siem Reap. A taxi from the airport to town costs US$ 5. Ferries are a major form of transport between Luang Prabang and the Thai border at Huay Xai. Meanwhile, many passengers and cargo from Nong Khiaw prefer to travel by road. The city has 3 bus stations offering airconditioned buses and public mini buses to other cities such as Vang Viang and Vientiane. Luang Prabang is very compact so that tourists can easily explore the city by foot and bicycle (US$ 1-3/day).

Top Attractions

* Royal Palace Museum (also referred to as the National Museum). This former Royal Palace houses the royal throne of Lan Xang Kingdom in its original splendor, and many other regalia and religious treasures. * Wat Xieng Toung, the city’s leading monastery/temple representing the typical Laotian art style * That Chom Si, a gilded classic Lao stupa on Mt. Phousi * Pak Ou Caves, a popular religious site containing literally thousands of images of Buddha * Kouangsy (Kuang Si) Waterfall, a spectacular multi-stage fall located 29 km south of the city.

Shopping Spots

Day Market (Setthathirat Rd.), Night Market (Sisavangvong Rd.)

Best Time Nightlife

Night Market and Ban Wat That area (the old silversmith quarter near the Mekong on the east end of town)

Travel Agencies

Diethelm Travel Sakarin Rd., near the Villa Santi +856 (0) 71 212277 www.diethelm-travel.com Exotissimo (Ban Xieng Keo Office) +856 (0) 71 253851 www.exotissimo.com

December–January and the New Year celebration in mid-April.

Getting There/Around

Reaching Siem Reap is easy due to the availability of various international flights to the city. Visitors can get flights from Bangkok, Singapore, Phnom Penh and Kuala Lumpur. From Bangkok, Bangkok Airways (Tel: 1771 or www.bangkokair.com) operates direct flights to Siem Reap. From Phnom Penh, travelers can take a speed boat. The trip takes 4 to 5 hours and costs US$ 25/person/trip.

Police Office: +856 (0) 71 212453 Medical Emergency: +856 (0) 71 252049 www.visit-laos.com www.tourismlaos.gov.la

Once in the city, travelers can easily find transport on the street. The most popular vehicles for 2 or more people are cars and vans (US$ 20-25/day). Motos or threewheeled motorcycle (US$ 10-15/day) and motorbikes (US$ 8-10/day) are also popular, but it’s not quite convenient to take them in summer or the rainy season. The rates include a driver and gas. For a short trip within the city, it costs US$ 1 for motorbikes and US$ 2-3 for motos.

Currency

Top Attractions

Inter-Lao Tourism +856 (0) 71 212200 www.interlao.laopdr.com

Tourist Information:

Kip (LAK). USD and Thai Baht are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary.

Time Code

GMT/UTC +7

* Angkor Archeaological Park, including the distant temples like Banteay Srei and Roluos Group of Temples * Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia

* Kbal Spean and Phnom Kulen, sacred mountains where stones under rivers and waterfalls were carved in the shapes of Hindu Gods and thousands of lingas * Land Mine Museum and War Museum * Artisans d’Angkor, Cambodia’s fine art and craft school

Shopping Spots

The Old Market Area, Central Market, Artisans d’Angkor

Nightlife

Pub Street in the Old Market area, Zone One Disco Theque, Restaurants and bars in leading hotels

Travel Agencies

Angkor T.K. Travel & Tour 117, ST6 Salakanseng, Svay Dangkum (Head Office) +855 63 963320 (Bangkok Office) +66 (0) 8 96358654 info@angkortk.com Indochina Explorer (Thailand) Co., Ltd 104/269 Eakchai Rd., Bangbon, Bangkok (Bangkok Office) +66 (0) 2898 1817, 2898 2324 (Cambodia Office) 855 63 963881 indochina@hotmail.com

Tourist Information

www.tourismcambodia.com www.mot.gov.kh

Currency

Apart from Cambodia’s currency the Riel (KHR), US dollars are widely accepted in hotels and restaurants in Siem Reap. Travelers from Thailand can use Thai currency (THB) at most restaurants and shops as well.

Time Zone

GMT/UTC +7

SHORT STORY | BY SHWE

he sky was getting dark in all directions. As the great Irrawaddy River flowed, thick gray clouds formed overhead. A cargo steamer moved steadily through the waters for it did not have to worry about the coming thunder showers. The fishermen’s small sailing canoes, however, rushed past, their drivers looking for refuge. Meanwhile, overhead the water birds flew erratically, up and down, to seemingly warn each other about the coming storm. The wind became wilder and stronger, as if it were trying to blow away the little flimsy hut that stood on a sandbank in the middle of the river. As the river is very wide, the small sandbank looks like an island afloat in the sea, and the strong wind pushed the normally tranquil piece of land into anxious action. The little people on the small sand island were rushing in every direction. The oldest one was collecting all the kitchen utensils that lay

outside the hut. The next two oldest were running to their fishing net that was placed across their island and the opposite bushy sand block. They tied the net harder to make sure that the fast current would not wash it away. The fourth one was chasing the chicks and the mother hen to lead them into the bamboo basket. Two little naked boys were joyfully running around and around, screaming the welcoming rain song. There was a smelly and rough cotton cradle in the darkness of the corner of the little hut, where the smallest member of the family was asleep, bringing the total number of siblings to seven. The oldest one is a 14-yearold girl, while the youngest child just one years old. So where were their parents?

Against the heavy rain, a fisherman’s canoe was rushing through the river. The rough river surface made it slow in its struggle. There was a couple in the canoe. The man was rowing as fast as he could. The woman, lying under a plastic sheet to cover her from the heavy rain, was pale and worried. They were on their way home when the accident happened to her. In order to hide from the stormy weather, they rowed the canoe to the nearest riverbank, anchored it, ran under the shade of a big banyan tree, sat there, and wished the rain would stop soon. No catch for today. It was already midafternoon. The children were expecting them to come home with food. The youngest one would be longing for mother’s breast milk.

The big and heavy raindrops fell and soon everything was soaked. The younger children went into the rain and expressed their joy by singing their heads off. The frightened chicks hid themselves under their mother’s chest. The eager farmers and their skilful cows continued to plough the paddy fields in spite of the sharpness of the thundershowers. The happy frogs hopped here and there while the playful fishes jumped into the air.

The woman felt dizzy the whole morning. As usual, she thought it was because she did not eat much and did not get a good sleep at night. She was soaked, so was her husband. The banyan tree gave them some cover. The sand under them was soaked too. She felt a strange pain around her back and stomach as if she was going to deliver her baby. She realized that the colour of the water dripping from her legs had turned to reddish brown. The pain was unbearable and constant. The nearest village is not very far away. The problem is that not every village has a clinic with trained medical staff. Only the big village has a clinic with a nurse, sometimes a doctor. First they rowed to the nearest village where they met a mid-wife who said that the woman was having a miscarriage. The mid-wife advised them to go to the big village where there is a clinic and a nurse. The villagers organized a bullock cart for them and drove urgently. Although they knew the bumpy road was not good for her, to save time they had to take the road instead of rowing in the wavy river. After an hour-long journey, bouncing the entire way, they arrived at the big village where there is a clinic and a nurse, just before dark. The woman was almost unconscious.

The rain had stopped when night was about to fall. No one informed the children about what happened to their parents and where they were. The eldest sister cooked the rice, mixed with chilli powder and fish paste. The chicks fell asleep. The hungry baby was crying, but refused to eat the congee that her sister gave her. The younger ones fell asleep after eating their delicious dinner. Under the insufficient candlelight, the second son was reading his old school textbook. Among the brothers and sisters he is the only one who was lucky enough to go to the school in the nearest village and study the primary level of education. He even was able to teach the alphabet and some basic writing and reading to his brothers and sisters. But when the father’s income was insufficient to support the increasing number of family members, the boy had to stop studying. But he considers himself luckier than his brothers and sisters, who have never been to a school, have never known school life, and have never had chance to wear the school uniform proudly. He tries his best not to forget what he has learned in school, trying to teach his brothers and sisters how to write and read. Mother says he is the only hope of the family. She wants him to be an educated person, a good teacher. She does not want her boys to become fishermen. As a Buddhist, she knows that fishing is not a right livelihood, and her own husband is not happy to make his living by killing animals. Even after the heavy rain, the sky was still not clear. The new silver moon and the gray clouds played hide-and-seek in the sky. The night was cold and quiet except for the soothing whisper of the big sister to her youngest sister. The poor child eventually stopped crying, sucked her thumb and slept. A few stars twinkled in the sky and tried to give some benign light to the earth. The boy blew out the candle when his sister put the baby in the cradle. The two older children looked at each other in the dark. They said nothing but could feel the heat of worry about their parents radiating from each other, however they could do nothing but wait until daybreak. It was midnight. The sky was clearer. The eyebrow shaped new moon shone over the earth. The mother gained consciousness, found herself in an unfamiliar place. Beside her, her husband was sitting, half asleep. She still felt dizzy. “Where are we?” she whispered. Her husband rubbed his eyes and replied wearily. “We are in the clinic of Nyaung Kan village” “Nyaung Kan village!” She was trying to draw a picture in her mind of where she was. It is far from home, she thought! It will take a minimum of four hours to row home. She thought of her children and tried to get up from the bed. “We shall go home,” she said determinedly. However she was not allowed to go home. Instead, it was suggested that she go to the township hospital as soon as her condition

was more stable. The nurse said that she needed to get further treatment. For the moment she had to lie down and sleep. The nurse gave her some pills. She held the nurse’s warm hand and asked nervously. “The baby?” The nurse’s big black eyes grew narrow. The mother breathed deeply, and looked directly into these kind black eyes of the young nurse. She repeated her inquiry before her husband tried to stop her. “We saved you in time my dear sister. Don’t think too much. You both are still young, you can have more babies in the near future if you are in good health. For now taking good care of yourself is the most important thing to do. Have a good sleep,” the nurse said kindly and left. She was not sure whether she was sad. She felt guilty for being relaxed about losing the baby. But she was very sure that she did not want to have any more babies. She was very tired of being pregnant. After giving birth to her fifth child, she was not in good health like before. She tried to stop having more babies, but the problem is that she and her husband do not know about contraception and do not dare to take any suggestions given by others. Taking medicines, having injections, or using condoms; such talk makes them feel uncomfortable and, more importantly, contraception costs money. She is afraid to take any medicines to stop having babies because she thinks it is unnatural. She had tried once and she felt faint, dizzy, and threw up a couple of days after she took the medicines. She thought she was doing to die. She had also heard that the injection is unhealthy. Above all, most of the time, she cannot afford to buy any of it regularly as she is always pre-occupied with giving her children enough food and clothes, meeting their daily basic needs. This was her 10th pregnancy and her first miscarriage. Two of her babies died just after they were born. In their mid-thirties, the couple looks much older than they are. She looked at her husband wearily. “We shall go home as soon as the day breaks. The children are expecting us. The youngest will be starving,” she urged. “No, we should go to the township hospital as the nurse suggested,” he insisted in his always-soft tone. “Are you a fool? We do not have money. Moreover, who will inform the children, who will take care of them during our absence, be practical,” she said bitterly. He looked at her miserably and said, “But you are not feeling well.” She gritted her teeth, breathed tiredly and answered weakly, “Well, I’ll be fine.” But he still argued in his softest voice. “We can send the young ones to your aunt, the second son can go to work as a helper with some other fishermen, the oldest daughter can be

with you in the hospital, I shall work harder to find some more money…” Before he could finish telling her his uncertain emergency plan, she lost her temper. “Stop talking about meaningless things. We both know that it is not possible.” He continued regardless of her bad temper. “Anyway, we’ve got to move back to the village in a couple of weeks when the river level comes up, now it seems we have to move back a little earlier than planned.” She closed her eyes and turned her head to the other side showing that she did not have enough strength to argue with him. She woke up feeling dizzy. The sun was shining through the bamboo-framed window. The birds were singing as if expecting a sunny day. She heard her husband and the nurse talking seriously. “Could she die if we do not go to the township hospital?” He choked when he had to say the word “die”. The young nurse gave him a sympathetic look. “You should not be so stubborn,” she suggested firmly. “She needs further treatment. Here, as you know, we do not have sufficient medicines. I’m worried that her womb is not clean after the miscarriage even though I gave her the best treatment available here. So it is better you send your wife to the township hospital where more skilled doctors and better equipment are available.” “But,” he paused, giving a helpless look to the young and tender nurse. The nurse sighed slightly, realizing his difficulties, and made the decision for him. “I know you have to inform your children, you do not have money, and you do not have any acquaintances in this village to help. Why don’t you go back now? Come back before dark, I will take care of your wife for today. Then tomorrow you go to the township hospital.” In the end, the poor mother agreed to listen to the nurse. Her husband rushed back home when the nurse gave her some hot rice with steamed soybeans. The woman was thinking how nice it would be if one of her daughters could become a nurse like this kind-hearted woman. Then tears dropped from her gray eyes and slipped down her hollow, pale cheeks. She felt guilty for not being able to send her children to school. She felt guilty for bringing her children into her poor life. She felt guilty for having more children than she could take care of. She felt that she and her husband were digging a hole and crawling into its darkness, pulling their children with them into the depths of poverty. “I’m sorry, I’m sorry my children,” she murmured and sobbed, as her joyful children played innocently under the big banyan trees.

Our 7th Anniversary Issue NEXTISSUE...

A Single Trip for Two Heritage Towns Tropical Inspired Travel Magazine has just returned from an incredible journey, using a multitude of transportation; ferries, trains, cars, public buses, taxis, and our now rather tired feet. Following colonial traces in the Strait of Malacca, we traveled from George Town (Penang Island) and headed down south to the city of Malacca to explore Malaysiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest two World Heritage cities. Both the journey down and the exploration of these cities were packed with wonder, and many memorable moments. George Town and Malacca have shared a rich historical background for over 500 years as former trading ports linking Asia and Europe. Until today, the multicultural heritage passed down from previous settlements has remained in these towns, often displayed through lively and informative demonstrations. If you travel along the old roads that cut through the heart of the two cities, there are ancient colonial buildings, churches, and town squares set on both sides making the townscape unique and fascinating. Both cities also resonate their glorious past, containing elements from the British era in Penang in the 18th century back to the Portuguese and Dutch period in Malacca during the 15th century.