Food 2016

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Drink up! Fabulous beverages, locally made By ISABEL BRAVERMAN

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Summer berries, summer pie An iconic local baker shares a recipe By BEACH LAKE BAKERY

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I’ll have what he’s having Chef’s favorites from fine local restaurants

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What summer drink should you get? Charting out the best way to quench your thirst

16

Eat shoots & leaves Vegetables can be the main attraction By LAURA SILVERMAN

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Food, glorious food A junk food junkie revisits his upbringing By JONATHAN CHARLES FOX

Cover photograph by Amanda Reed

FOOD, a special publication of The River Reporter, is published by Stuart Communications, Inc. Entire contents ©2016 by Stuart Communications, Inc. Mailing Address: PO Box 150, Narrowsburg, NY 12764 Phone: 845/252-7414 • Fax: 845/252-3298 Have a comment or idea for the magazine? Contact: Isabel at 845/252-7414 or isabel@riverreporter.com

2 FOOD 2016

Publisher: Laurie Stuart Section Editor: Isabel Braverman Production & Circulation Manager: Amanda Reed Sales Manager: Tanya Hubbert, tanya@riverreporter.com Ad Sales Associates: Eileen Hennessy, eileen@riverreporter.com Christie Davey, christie@riverreporter.com Would you like copies for your place of business? Contact: amanda@riverreporter.com

Welcome to our third annual issue of FOOD. One of the reasons I love living here is the eats—the restaurants, farmers’ markets, cafés, breweries, etc. We should all be out there supporting these people, these local heroes who make and grow delicious food. In these pages, you’ll find a taste of what the region has to offer. Food doesn’t take all the glory here; we can’t forget about drink. I talked with beverage businesses Java Love Coffee Roasting and Aaron Burr Cidery to find out what makes them buzz. They are doing things no one else is doing in the broader area, and we are lucky to have them here. Java Love roasts coffee from only the best (sustainable, organic, Fair Trade) growers all over the world and brings it to our backyard for a fine cup of coffee. The couple behind Aaron Burr treats making cider as a special and significant process that gives back to the land. Beach Lake Bakery has been in business since the late 1990s, and we all know and love their bread, croissant, cookies and pies. Lucky for us, they supplied a recipe for raspberry pie. Berries are only in season for a short time during the summer, and their juiciness and sweetness make for the best summertime desserts, or eaten alone the best snack. Even though it’s hot out, you’ll want to fire up the oven to make their recipe. Again this year, we gathered dish recommendations from the area’s best chefs. Do you ever go to a restaurant and wonder what the chef would pick from the menu? Now you will know. These talented chefs work at top-rated restaurants and bring their own spin to create unique dishes. Noted food writer Laura Silverman says eat your vegetables. Even if you aren’t a vegetarian, meat doesn’t always have to be the star of the show. Laura shows us interesting ways to eat more veggies, and provides a recipe. Did you know the most commonly eaten vegetables in America are potatoes and tomatoes? We can do better than that! However, maintaining a healthy lifestyle by eating well all the time isn’t always feasible. Hey, we all have our guilty pleasures, and sometimes an Oreo or two (or three) will sneak in. And some ice cream, too. Jonathan Fox knows the struggle, and he writes about his history of unhealthy eating when TV dinners became the norm (Miracle Whip anyone?). He looks at it with a lens of humor, and finds that what we eat is as personal as anything. — Isabel Braverman Editor

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 3

By ISABEL BRAVERMAN Everyone knows by now that the Upper Delaware River Valley is filled with farms and the restaurants that source from them. But food’s best friend—drinks—is sometimes left by the wayside. Let’s not forget that our area is also rich in locally produced beverages. We’ve featured all the craft breweries and wineries before, so now it’s time to focus on other ways to bet a buzz. In this article, we feature two businesses serving up the finest drinks: Java Love Coffee Roasting and Aaron Burr Cidery. Continued on page 6

4 FOOD 2016

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DRINK UP! Continued from page 4

Java Love Coffee Roasting Co. Address: 1577 NY-17B, White Lake, NY 12786 Phone: 845/583-4082 Website: www.javaloveroasters.com

When Jodie Dawson and Kristine Petrik couldn’t find a good cup of coffee, they set out to make their own. “When we asked people where to go to get coffee, they said Citgo.” These homeowners in Sullivan County opened Java Love in 2011 in Bethel, NY, only five miles from the original site of Woodstock. This women-owned business quickly grew in popularity and locations (they have two other stores, in New Jersey) and is now a staple for those seeking a damn fine cup of coffee. Java Love sources the best ingredients. Their beans are from major coffee growers around the world that are sustainable and certified Organic, Fair Trade, Naturally Farmed and Rainforest Alliance. Their importers have a direct relationship with the growers. They start with green coffee beans and use a 12-kilo coffee roaster, which produces about 25 pounds of coffee, meaning their coffee is produced in small batches. “Everything from bean to bag is done by hand; nothing is automated.” This allows the roasters to use touch, feel and smell to ensure a quality batch. “It’s a dance between heart and science,” Petrik said. They chose their location not only to offer good coffee, but also because they saw the economic development happening in the area. “We thought it would be a good vehicle,” Dawson said. Also, they saw how they could fit into the local food scene. “There seemed to be a lot of restaurants and food, but there wasn’t drink to equal that,” Petrik said. “There was a blank space.” They say it was like throwing spaghetti at the wall—it was time. Besides coffee, Java Love also offers baked goods, healthy snacks and brunch on the weekends. They sell both retail and wholesale and can be found at numerous stores, farmers’ markets and restaurants in the area (check their website for a full list). The roaster is in the middle of the shop, so people can stop by and see how it works, which allows them to form a connection with their cup of coffee. Prior to opening their business (which they bought from Hudson Valley Coffee Roasters, Inc., of Newburgh, NY) Dawson was a psychologist at a university and Petrik was an executive at CNN as well as a sommelier. “I had to take my wine brain and turn it into a coffee brain.” Continued on page 8 Contributed photos

6 FOOD 2016

Selecting a wine that will pair perfectly with your meal , determining the quantity you will need for the number of guests you are expecting or creating a customized wine tasting program, for your next party, are just a few ways Hancock Liquor q Store can help you enhance your next

gathering.

“ Wine makes a symphony of a good meal.” —Fernande Garvin, The Art of French Cooking

hancock liquor store

Great Selection • Great Prices • Knowledgeable Staff 7 West Main Street • Hancock, NY • 607-637-5364 Open Monday - Thursday 9am - 7pm Friday & Saturday 9am - 9pm • Sundays 12-6pm Remember us for all your Holiday Entertaining and Gift Giving needs. Custom Gift Baskets and Corporate Gifts available.

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Has Come Back To The Upper Delaware River Enjoy Our Farm-To-Table Bistro In The Unique Setting Of The Old Capitol Theatre Bistro & Wine/Beer Bar Open Thursday to Sunday 6-10pm Coffeeshop/Bakery Open 7 Days For Breakfast and Lunch 8am-3pm

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 7

DRINK UP! Continued from page 6

Aaron Burr Cidery (formerly “The Cidery”) Location: Wurtsboro, NY Phone: 845/468-5867 Website: Aaronburrcider.com (all social media under “the cidery”)

Aaron Burr Cidery does things a little differently. Producing hard ciders is just the beginning of its business; co-owners Andy Brennan and Polly Giragosian also operate their homestead and take special care of the trees that provide them with the means to make cider: apples. “Cider is not the goal of the Aaron Burr Cidery,” said Brennan. “The goal is to create healthy trees, healthy ecosystems and healthy communities by way of food. Cider is the vehicle, not the message.” Brennan and Giragosian opened their business in 2007. They were attracted to the history and landscape of the area. But immediately after they moved here, the real estate market crashed. “As a worker in the architectural industry,” Brennan said, “I became virtually unemployed, and producing income from our home resources became a necessity, not a choice. It was sink or swim for the farm. In many ways we did not choose cider either; it chose us.” Their cider is made from apples collected from different local spots, and each cider is unique and represents the flavors of where the apples are from. “Cider is to apples what wine is to grapes. In other words, cider is made by nature, it is not a recipe,” Brennan said. In the spring, they pump the cider out of barrels into a tank on the second floor of their barn. Moved by gravity, the cider flows from the tank to a bottle filler. They use champagne bottles, corks and wire hoods to secure the cork after carbonation builds in the bottle. Real cider is simply local apples fermented. “We make an extremely rare type of cider known as real cider. Real cider is made from true cider apples in the fall, in the community in which the apples were grown. It’s not a concoction of flavors, sugars, artificial carbonation or preservatives.”

8 FOOD 2016

RESTAURANT & SHOPS

Serving affordable meals since 1966 www.applevalleyrestaurant.com Route 6, Milford, PA

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Barryille, NY 12719 • (845) 557-0400 TheCarriageHouseNY.com

Raimondo’s RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Featuring The Finest in Italian & American Cuisine Espresso • Cappuccino • Cocktails •Pizza • Seafood • Veal • Chicken

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Summer berries, summer pie From BEACH LAKE BAKERY Summer is officially here, and so, too, is berrypie season at Beach Lake Bakery. In addition to the standard fruits of summer, we like to feature less common varieties, such as blackberry and raspberry. We make our raspberry pie with simple ingredients that awaken the taste buds by bringing out the sweet/tart flavor of the berries. It is the perfect pie to serve on a summer’s evening!

Raspberry Pie 1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell with top crust ¾ cup granulated sugar 4 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 6 cups raspberries 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. butter 1. Preheat oven to 375° F. 2. In a large bowl, combine sugar and flour. Stir in raspberries and carefully pour mixture into pastry bottom. Sprinkle lemon juice over fruit. Dot with butter. Cover mixture with top crust, seal edges, and crimp edges as desired. Make several decorative vents on the top of crust with a knife. 3. Bake for 1 hour, or until crust turns golden brown. Remove pie to wire rack and cool.

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10 FOOD 2016

Contributed photo

WHITE LAKE

WINE & SPIRITS SHOP

Gift Certificates Available

Largest selection in the area Gift Certificates Available

1447 STATE ROUTE 17B • WHITE LAKE, NY 12786 • 845-583-4570

The Overlook at Woodloch Springs

Patrons can enjoy small plates that are perfect for sharing and the freshest farm-to-table meals combined with the renowned spirit of hospitality that you’ve come to expect from the Woodloch Family.

Monday to Sunday 11am - 10pm ages 16 and up after 4pm

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the cooperage. home of the cooperage project.

things are happening here.

Dine while captivated by the view from our wraparound deck or the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the 18th hole of our finely manicured, 4.5 star golf course. Meals are served in a stylish setting with accents touched by Mother Nature herself. You’ll know from the birch wood privacy panels and twig chandeliers to the hardwood floors and deep auburn bars and tables that you’re not simply dining, you’re experiencing.

Lakefront Dining • Live Music Children’s Menu & Playroom Lunch & Dinner • Sunday Brunch Free WiFi American and Healthy Mediterranean Cuisine Gluten Free and Vegetarian Available

performance events, learning opportunities, markets and good times | good works

thecooperageproject.org 1030 Main Street | Honesdale, PA | 570.253.2020 A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 11

I’ll have what he’s having This is the second year we’ve asked local chefs to give us their dish recommendation at their restaurant. Not only is our area abundant with fresh produce, eggs, meat and dairy from farms and other locallyproduced food, we also have talented chefs behind closed ovens creating amazing dishes.

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izza

Bar Louis at Hotel Fauchere Chef: Michael Glatz Favorite dish: Sushi Pizza

The Fork at Twin Lakes Chef: Peter Daniel Favorite dish: Chicken in Black Bean Sauce with Asian Coleslaw Why: It is the one dish on our revolving menu that we have never changed. I tried dropping it once and had a dining room revolution... the only recipe I will not give out until I retire.

Why: Sushi Pizza has been one of my favorite dishes I’ve created for over a decade! It’s a delicious and fun explosion of color, flavor, smell, temperature and texture. A warm crust of tempura-fried sticky rice, cool, creamy and spicy Asian red chile sauce, the rich cold tuna, sprinkled with crunchy, colorful and flavorful flying fish caviar.

Matthew’s on Main Chef: Matthew Lanes Favorite dish: Angel Hair Arabiatta

Glass—wine.bar.kitchen at Ledges Hotel Chef: Travis Lugo Favorite dish: Hummus Snack Plate Why: It’s simple, healthy, and pretty, but also a lot of fun to make.

Why: It is simple and satisfying; the oil gives it a richness, the tomato a nod to the “gravy” of old, the spice and garlic a freshness. It’s great as a side or adapted as a main course with the addition of seafood, sausage, or chicken.

The Overlook at Woodloch Pines Chef: Matthew Gaeng Favorite dish: The Tostado—corn tortilla, black bean spread, pork carnitas, lettuce, tomato, cranberry chipotle cheddar, micro cilantro Why: In the dish itself, there’s crunch from the fried tortilla and smoothness from the black bean spread. The pork carnitas are loaded with flavor from the braising process, with all of the spices and fruit in the braise. The lettuce and tomato give a cold crisp crunch, and the cranberry chipotle cheddar has a smooth yet sweet and spicy compound at the same time. This is one of my favorite dishes on the menu because it combines so many flavor and textures. That is exactly why my favorite cuisines are Spanish, Mexican and Southwestern. In these types of cuisines, you get sweet, savory, and spicy plus all of the different textures.

12 FOOD 2016

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 13

Which summer drink should you get? First things first, do you want alcohol? Do you want something light or strong?

Summer is for:

Are you a one-piece or bikini kind of person?

Whiskey Sour 14 FOOD 2016

Are you going to a party or relaxing at home?

Do you want something sweet?

Are you all about the classics or want something adventurous?

Are you sipping pool-side or at the beach? Quick & easy or more involved to make?

RosĂŠ

Mojito

Fruit Spritzer

Strawberry Lemonade

Whiskey Sour Ingredients: 1 1/2 oz bourbon whiskey, 1 oz fresh lemon juice, 1/2 oz simple syrup Preparation: Shake with ice. Strain into ice-filled old-fashioned glass.

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Standard garnish: Maraschino cherry, lemon rind, sugared glass, orange slice

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Ingredients: 1 1/2 oz white rum, 6 leaves of mint, soda water, 1 oz fresh lime juice, 2 teaspoons sugar

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Preparation: Muddle mint sprigs with sugar and lime juice. Corner 17B & Pine Grove Rd., White Lake, NY Add rum and top with (3 miles from Bethel Woods. Across from Citgo Station) soda water. Garnish $17,48(6 -(:(5/< 72<6 &2//(&7$%/(6 32&.(7%22.6 with sprig of mint '2//$5 6725( )58,76 9(*(7$%/(6 +$1'0$'( &5$)76 leaves. +286(+2/' *22'6 08&+ 08&+ 025( /276 $1' /276 2) %$5*$,16 Served: Poured over ',))(5(17 9(1'256 (9(5< :((. &20( 6(( :+$7 <28 &$1 ),1' ice.

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Strawberry Lemonade Ingredients: 8 large strawberries, halved; 2 Tbsp. white sugar, 7 cups water, divided; 1 cup white sugar; 2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice. Preperation: Place strawberries in a blender; top with 2 Tbsp. sugar. Pour 1 cup water over sugared strawberries. Blend until strawberry chunks transform into juice. Combine strawberry juice, 6 cups water, 1 cup sugar, and lemon juice in a large pitcher; stir until blended. Chill before serving.

&HOO

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Northern Italian Cusine

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Fine Wine & Spirits Parking on premises

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Ice Cream: 28 Flavors Hard Soft Serve

Serving Lunch & Dinner Open 7 days a week 11am to late

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Brey’s Egg Farm

Farm Fresh Eggs since 1932

Top Soil • Compost • Delivery Available • Fresh Beef 607 Swiss Hill Road, JeÎ?ersonville, NY 12748 • www.breyseggfarm.com

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 15

Eat shoots & leaves By LAURA SILVERMAN There are so many reasons to eat more plants: some environmental, some economic, some related to health. But perhaps the most compelling argument is simply the flavor. The truly awesome variety and versatility of vegetables, herbs, legumes, fruits, nuts and seeds provide a world of delicious possibility, much of it unexplored by the average American. According to the United States Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service, the vegetables most eaten in 2013 were potatoes and tomatoes, mainly in the form of French fries and pizza. Meanwhile, delectable, nutrition-packed options from kale and kohlrabi to pea pods and purslane are eyed with suspicion. It was when I saw the super-sweet baby Japanese turnips grown by Willow Wisp Farm being passed up that I decided to start giving monthly cooking demos at the Barryville Farmers’ Market. It turns out many people are eager to learn about new ingredients, and I love watching their faces light up with delight and discovery. You don’t have to be vegetarian to enjoy vegetables as the focus of a meal. Take a cue from so many of the world’s cuisines in which meat plays a secondary role and is used almost like a seasoning. Beans are stewed with ham, pasta is tossed with anchovies, and fragrant coconut curries conceal bits of chicken. Salads are composed with eggs or smoked fish, and pies come loaded with savory fillings. It can be argued that eating this way brings about a much more profound lifestyle change than a well-intentioned but somewhat superficial measure like Meatless Mondays. Without a big hunk of protein to anchor the plate (or even no meat at all) you make room for those Japanese turnips and their greens tossed with buckwheat noodles; soft tacos stuffed with sautéed greens, avocado and salty cheese; red rice salad studded with radishes, dates and toasted cashews; and fried zucchini flowers bursting with fresh ricotta. Yotam Ottolenghi, a London-based chef who has vaulted into the limelight on the strength of his highly original, vegetablefocused cuisine, advocates a bold mix of

16 FOOD 2016

Photos by Laura Silverman

Fried zucchini blossoms Red rice salad

flavors that creates “drama in the mouth.” He uses herbs like other cooks use salt. It’s a valuable lesson in the notion that plant-based food can be assertive, luscious and irresistible. This kind of meal comes without any sense of deprivation. I recently ate at Nix, the hot new vegetarian restaurant in downtown Manhattan, and I’m still dreaming of the steamed buns with cauliflower tempura and tart pickles. At this time of year, the bounty from our local farms—those amazing heirloom varieties!—is all the inspiration you need to eat a glorious rainbow of color and flavor.

Greens taco

Buckwheat Noodles with Hakurei Turnips Serves 2

Soba with turnips

8 ounces buckwheat noodles 2 tsp. black sesame seeds 1 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 Tbsp. sweet white miso 1 Tbsp. plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened and divided 8 oz small Hakurei turnips 6 oz turnip greens 2/3 cup water 1 Tbsp. mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine) 1/8 tsp. fine sea salt Bring a large pot of water to the boil and add noodles. Simmer 8 minutes or just until tender. Meanwhile, lightly toast sesame seeds in a small skillet over a low flame. In a small bowl, stir together miso and 1 tablespoon butter. Pour noodles into a colander in the sink and rinse with cold water. Shake off excess water and transfer to a bowl. Toss noodles with rice wine vinegar and sesame oil. Set aside to cool to room temperature. Remove and discard turnip stems and roughly chop greens. Halve turnips and place in a heavy 8-inch skillet along with the water, mirin, 2 teaspoons butter and sea salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, covered, about 8 minutes. Remove cover, add greens and stir with tongs. Cook about 1 minute, covered, then remove lid again and continue boiling until greens are wilted, turnips are tender and liquid is reduced to a glaze, about 4 minutes. Stir in miso butter and cook 1 minute. Divide buckwheat noodles between two plates. Mound turnips and greens on top. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds. A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE 17

Food, glorious food! By JONATHAN CHARLES FOX Forgive me, Mother, for I cannot lie: you were not a great cook. While my mom was terrific in many ways, preparing meals was not one of them, and like many housewives in the ‘50s, my mother thrilled to the latest advances in culinary shortcuts that began to flood the market. TV dinners caused her to squeal with joy, and since my father often worked late, I had the dubious good fortune to be Mom’s guinea pig as “new and improved” advertisements in magazines caught her eye. If it was frozen, came in a box, or was sealed in a can to preserve “freshness,” Mom was in and I was just along for the ride. Frankly, I didn’t really know any better. As I sat mesmerized in front of the Mickey Mouse Club, while Mom chain smoked and chatted with girlfriends, I sampled the latest “gourmet” offering, giving her my review when prompted. My personal favorite? The compartmentalized and “well balanced” Swanson’s fried chicken, mashed potatoes, mixed veggies (which I gave to the dog while Mom wasn’t looking) and the sweet, caramelized dessert known as “apple brown betty” (whatever that is). Looking back, I like to think that there was indeed, some nutritional value in those meals—and we did eat out quite a bit, so there’s that. Oh, sure, Mom cooked, but family meals around the kitchen table were often fraught with arguments (my big sister was pretty snotty and my father was not easily pleased). So, as the years progressed, she slaved over the stove less and less, opting instead to consider working, which would give her an excuse simply not to bother. “There’s just no pleasing him,” I’d hear Mom whisper into the phone. “Screw it,” she rasped, “let them eat cake.” And so I did, sort of. Actually, my snotty sister was overweight, while I was scrawny, so as my mother admonished Sis for packing on the pounds, she would often take me aside to let me in on where the treats were hidden. I would gorge on Trix and Froot Loops for breakfast, often followed by Dolly Madison cupcakes with a chaser of M&M’s, which had been 18 FOOD 2016

introduced to pop culture the year I was born. My teeth would thank me later. Mildly obsessed with my sister’s eating habits, Mom looked the other way when it came to mine, and although we had dinner with the grandparents every Sunday, Grandma kept Kosher and everything tasted the same. Burnt, dried-out and completely lacking flavor sensations, my taste buds cried out more and more for sweets, salt, and what was to become a staple in my diet to this day—mayonnaise. I eat it on virtually everything, including hot dogs, scrambled eggs, French fries and bacon. I couldn’t get enough of the stuff—and of course, my cholesterol would thank me later. As the ‘60s rolled along, instant gratification followed, and by then Mom had burned her bra instead of supper and was indeed working, along with several of her friends. In those days, we came home for lunch during grade school, and it was often unsupervised, even though our meals were prepared in advance. Tuna fish (loaded with mayo) became my staple, along with fried baloney, and the latest craze—the “Fluffernutter.” Based on a sandwich first created in the early 20th century after a sweet marshmallow-like crème was invented in Massachusetts, the term “Fluffernutter” (your basic peanut butter and marshmallow sandwich) was created by an advertising agency in 1960 as a more effective way to market the product, known simply as Fluff. Sticky, gooey, future dentist-dollars Fluff. Naturally, Mom succumbed to the advertising as I tugged at her sleeve, and she was hoping that it might add some meat to my bones, even though there was no meat in sight. In the late ‘60s, excitement about NASA and the future of intergalactic adventures caught the eye of a nation. As I eschewed “The Flintstones” in favor of “The Jetsons,” another culinary delight came along to replace my breakfast cereal, oatmeal or even the common egg: “Space Food Sticks.” Created by the fine folks at Pillsbury, the “non-frozen energy snack in rod form” was introduced to the world in conjunction with astronaut John Glenn famously sipping on “Tang” while orbiting the globe aboard

the “Friendship 7” space capsule in 1962. When Pillsbury filed for a trademark, no basis for the use of the term “nutritionally balanced” was provided (www.wikipedia.org), so there’s that. It wasn’t until many years later that my history with bad habits came back to haunt me. Following decades of consuming garbage, I was diagnosed with diverticulitis, an intestinal disease that wreaks havoc with the body and is often exacerbated by additives, preservatives and anything artificial. Common in the Western world, the illness is virtually unheard of in Europe and Africa, and the disease becomes more common in those over 50. Uh oh. Having undergone four surgeries to deal with the illness, my horrific love affair with junk food has been replaced with utmost care and attention to what I consume, since my condition is no joke. Still, I can’t help but smile when I reflect on how it all began. Since I can’t turn back time, I choose instead to be an advocate for “clean living” (cigarettes not included) and am grateful that I live in the Upper Delaware River region, where homegrown, nutritional food is readily available. Do I occasionally binge on brightly colored, vitamin-free snacks that would cause my physician to cringe? Of course. After all, I’m only human, and those lapses in judgment make me think fondly of Mom.

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