UpperDelaware Magazine

UPPER DELAWARE YOUR GUIDE FOR EXPLORING THE UPPER DELAWARE RIVER VALLEY FREE

COUNTRY STORES

SPOTLIGHT ON Java Love, Time and The Valleys Museum, Zumba, The Ledges

AREA

HAPPENINGS

A RIVER REPORTER LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

Out&About Off The Beaten Track in Honesdale, D&H Canal Trails, Local Bowling Alleys

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2 • upper delaware magazine

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR The theme for this spring/summer issue of Upper Delaware Magazine is “out and about.” We hope to entice you to explore the region in new ways, visiting places and doing things you might not have tried before. The Upper Delaware River valley is coming into its own as a premiere spot for history, the arts, entertainment and fine dining, and it has always been a supreme locale for exploring the natural world.

We invite you to get to know the lively borough of Honesdale, PA with your sneakers on—via a walking tour. Along the way, you can visit some wonderful shops and galleries and refuel with lunch or coffee. History abounds as we introduce you to the 19th-century D&H Canal towpath trails, originally used to drive mules that pulled coal barges south along the river. The new/old country store is making a resurgence, and we introduce you to six in the area, where you can find everything from fine crafts and antiques to a quart of milk to imported olive oil to hearty sandwiches and locally produced goods. We invite you to visit the newly established, volunteer-run Time and the Valleys Museum in Grahamsville, NY, whose current exhibits honor the region’s rich farming heritage and the fascinating water supply connection between Neversink and New York City. In another direction, but equally pleasurable, take a journey out to the new Ledges Hotel in Hawley, PA, where you can sample a small-plates menu and drink a glass of wine outdoors in a dramatic setting of rock ledges and waterfalls. If you are a coffee hound and want a local spot, check out the excellent brew at Java Love in the happening restaurant district of Kauneonga Lake, NY—these gals roast their own beans right on the spot. Finally, for those regular workout needs, and for those rainy days, we provide a listing of Zumba classes in the area, and we invite you to take the family bowling—we even have two classic bowling alleys where you have to set your own pins.

UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE A RIVER REPORTER LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

PUBLICATION DATE: MAY 17

Stuart Communications Creative Services

FULL-SERVICE MARKETING SOLUTIONS

Publisher: Laurie Stuart Section Editor: Mary Greene Creative Director: Lori Malone Production Manager: Connie Kern

“Dreams nourish the soul just as food nourishes the body.

The pleasure of the search and of adventure feed our dreams.”

Mary Greene Section Editor

Sales Manager: Emily Grillo ext. 34 emily@riverreporter.com

– Paulo Coelho

5

Everything Old Is New Again The return of the country store

13

A Walk Into The Past The D&H Canal towpath trails

By Jane E. Castelli

18

Where The Sidewalk Begins Walking Honesdale

26

‘Spare’ Time?

Let’s go bowling!

By Jonathan Fox

By Barbara Winfield

Advertising/ Marketing Consultant: Barbara Winfield ext. 25 barbara@riverreporter.com

By S. Zoe Hecht

SPOTLIGHT ON

OUT & ABOUT

CONTENTS

Advertising:

9

For The Love Of Coffee

By S. Zoe Hecht

11

Zumba!

21

Time And Valleys Museum

By Mary Greene

23

Things We Love About Summer In the Upper Delaware River valley

29

Ledges

34

Emily Grillo: 845-252-7414, ext. 34 or emily@riverreporter.com

By Mary Greene

Distribution:

Would you like copies for your place of business?

Carol Coney: 845-252-7414, ext. 21 or trrsubs@riverreporter.com

Editorial:

Have a comment or idea for the magazine?

Mary Greene: 845-252-7414, ext. 30 or marygreene@riverreporter.com UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE a special publication of The River Reporter, is published by Stuart Communications, Inc.

By Mary Greene

Entire contents ©2012 by Stuart Communications, Inc.

Event Calendar

Mailing Address: PO Box 150, Narrowsburg, NY 12764 Phone: 845-252-7414 • Fax: 845-252-3298 A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 3

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ND

4 • upper delaware magazine

At Our

LOCATION!

Greentown

Formerly Castle Antiques

570-390-4442 STOP IN & SEE US! www.84CountrySto

The return of the country store Text and Photographs | Barbara Winfield

The country store, once the main shopping and gathering place for local residents, is undergoing a renaissance. Offering local, homemade and unique gift items, these stores, an American country tradition, are a mix of modern convenience and old-fashioned friendliness. The ambiance is softer, more soulful, a nostalgic reminder of a less complicated time. Along with personal service, these

OUT & ABOUT

EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN

new/old stores offer customers a chance to enjoy a pleasant shopping experience away from the crowds, parking lots and the glare of neon lights.

Upper Delaware Magazine set out to explore several of these establishments in Sullivan and nearby Wayne County. What we discovered was that each country store has its own distinct style.

Lilly’s Country Store

Our Country Place

Canal Towne Emporium

Located on Route 17B near Monticello, NY, Lilly’s Country Store (845/513-5329, www.lillys countrystore.com) is a barn-like structure that was once a popular farm market. The building had been closed for several years until the Hoek family brought it back to life as a country store and garden center. Roger Hoek, originally from New Jersey, has experience in both retail and construction; his wife Christina is a native of Sullivan County. Their plan was to develop a store that carried local goods, crafts and produce including organic healthy items and fresh baked goods. Lilly’s Loft, upstairs, is filled with flea market and antique treasures. “Along with the country store look, we wanted a warm and welcoming atmosphere,” said Christina. “That’s part of the charm of country living– not rushing people to pay and leave.” The store, which opened in August 2011, is expanding to include an outdoor farm and garden center with plants, seeds and local produce.

Formerly the Youngsville General Store, Our Country Place (845/482-4757) on Route 52 in Youngsville, NY is owned and operated by Suzanne and Ron McGrath. The couple moved up to Shandelee, NY from Yonkers about 16 years ago and opened an antique store in Liberty, NY where Ron served several terms as president of the Liberty Chamber of Commerce. In 2010 they decided they needed more space and found this location. “We didn’t plan to sell food and groceries,” said Suzanne. “Several of the townspeople missed having a grocery store and asked if we would carry staples such as milk and eggs.” Since the store already came with commercial refrigerators, Suzanne and Ron decided to include groceries, sandwiches and bulk candies along with the antiques and gift items. A comfortable area in front of the store, complete with kitchen chairs and tables, invites you to sit and enjoy cup of coffee and cake from Flour Power Bakery. “The space just evolved into a country store,” said Ron. “We even have a potbellied stove.”

Situated at Sullivan and Hudson streets in Wurtsboro, NY, the building that houses Canal Towne Emporium (845/888-2100, www. canaltowne.com) started out as a general store in 1838, supplying the nearby D&H Canal. In 1870 Joseph Holmes and James Fulton purchased it, and until 1958 the store was a fixture of village life. Although the building stayed in the Holmes family, it stood empty until 1976 when it became the Canal Towne Emporium, the brainchild of Doris Holmes. With the help of designer Gary Eckhart, Doris removed all of the modern structures and furnishings and returned the store to its original ambiance, including restoration of the 1830s wood counters and 1870s tin ceiling. On the stairway leading to the second floor is an exhibit of old ads, merchandise and bills of sales, and on the second floor you can even see Joseph Holmes’ original office, complete with a roll top desk, antique safe and old hand written ledgers.

Today, fourth-generation Gary and Lyman Holmes run the store. Shelves are filled with penny candies, country preserves, teas and even a pickle barrel. In 1994 the store expanded to include a Great Room, a showcase for fine gifts and handcrafted furniture, plus a year-round Christmas Shoppe.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 5

84 Country Store

Main Street Farm Market & Café

Region General Store

84 Country Store (570/252-4222, www.84 countrystore.com) in Greentown, PA is the largest country store in the Lake Wallenpaupack, PA area.

Owners Bryan and Lisa Sartor and Craig Goodrich purchased the building, a former gym, in November 2010 with plans of turning it into an engraving studio and candle shop. But Bryan, who has traveled the country, was inspired by the look of Cracker Barrel Stores. “So I suggested that we open a county store instead, with mostly American and locally made products.” The original building, a metal structure measuring 1,800 square feet, was redesigned by Craig to create a barn-like interior with rough pine paneling and beams. Over 500 gift items are available, and jewelry can be engraved. In January 2011 they expanded another 3,800 square feet, adding a room featuring specialty food items like jams, salsa, fudge and apple cider, and a “Kids Country” section, showcasing the largest handcrafted marble run in Pennsylvania.

The main attraction is an indoor Gem Mining water flume, where you can mine for actual gems and fossils.

The store also features colorful animal figures, Amish handcrafted outdoor furniture, lawn art made from recycled metal and country antiques from all over.

They serve a BBQ lunch on weekends. And check out their satellite store in the Hawley Silk Mill (570/390 4442).

This Livingston Manor establishment lives by the creed: “Buy local, buy fresh and buy healthy.” Main Street Farm Market & Café (845/665-9266, www.mainstreetfarm.com) is owned by Jonathan Westergreen, who opened it in May 2009. Filled with burlap bags of dried beans, organic produce from local farms and an extensive choice of coffees and teas, the store also has imported specialty items such as virgin olive oil from Tuscany, stored in a large metal urn (you can buy a bottle and come back for a refill). “I like to think of it as modern meets country,” said Westergreen, who modeled the store after Marlow & Daughters in Brooklyn. The store carries local cheeses, baked goods, miso from a Buddhist monastery, smoked fish, fresh meats, cookies and chocolate. The sitting area overlooking Main Street is a great place to sit and people watch, enjoying a cup of fresh-ground coffee or lunch. The soup is homemade and each reasonably priced sandwich is named after a local spot, such as The Beaverkill, Junction Pool, or The Manor. Main Street Farm is a fun place to shop, a charming, old-fashioned grocery store filled with items for those who love to cook and for those who love to eat.

Owner Bryce Boyd started his career in the retail gourmet food and fashion industry, and it shows.

He has an eye for design, and chooses merchandise that makes you want to buy everything. Region General Store (845/557-5000, www. regiongeneralstore.com) in Barryville, NY is an exercise in streamlined simplicity. The unfussy layout consists of sleek white pine shelves held up by metal pipes and filled with local gourmet foods, country preserves, muffin mixes, candy and nuts. The minimalist look creates a feeling of spaciousness in this not-so-large space that allows the merchandise to stand out. After working in the Epicure Department at Neiman Marcus Department store in Dallas, Boyd moved to Lumberland, NY three years ago where he and his partner decided to start a business. “We wanted to have a store that carries local foods and crafts, a regional store,” said Boyd. Some of what you’ll find there includes handmade brooms, Echo Letterpress notepaper from Jeffersonville, NY, bird and bat houses from Glen Spey, NY, hand crafted candles from Brooklyn, Hudson Valley Seeds, microbrews from Cooperstown, NY and even beer making kits.

The store also carries local cheeses, good flat bread and crackers.

6 • upper delaware magazine

2012

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8 • upper delaware magazine

Coffee Text and Photograph | S. Zoe Hecht

J

odie Dawson, right, and Kristine Petrik set out to find a good cup of coffee. Their search was an adventure that ended in the creation of Java Love Coffee Roasting Co. in the hopping restaurant district of Kauneonga Lake, NY. Java Love celebrated its first-year anniversary (coffee on the house!) on April 30 of this year.

a great sense of amazement at what has been accomplished in 16 minutes. I love being able to share that sense of awe with customers who are in the shop for that magical moment.”

Petrik and Dawson are helped by two staff members, Sean Ross Haber and Matthew Allen. Said operations manager Haber, “Whether at the shop or at community events, one of the most rewarding attributes of my job is being able to identify and relate to my customers’ concerns for locally supported manufacturing. I provide passion with every sale, and interest in every conversation.”

Java Love’s coffee can be bought by the cup, two-ounce samples or one-pound bags in the shop and by mail order. It can also be found at numerous local venues such as the Callicoon Farmers Market, the Wayne County Farmers Market, the Museum Café at Bethel Woods, the Dancing Cat Saloon and Distillery, Region General Store and Coffee Creations.

For those who drink coffee by the barrel, Java Love offers a five-pound special and a Coffee Club membership. Although the company stocks green coffee beans, it also seeks out seasonal blends and accepts requests for special custom blends from customers Java Love’s café is a coffee lover’s paradise.

Thursday is a great day for a visit to see how the coffee is roasted. When the weather permits, there is ample outdoor seating, both sheltered and unsheltered, to relax and chat.

At the counter you may find organic muffins from Flour Power Bakery, or assorted pastries from Java Love’s neighbor, the Bake House, both excellent accompaniments to a freshly brewed cuppa. Come summer you may also taste some of the Brandenburg’s German specialties.

Java Love’s commitment to the area is evidenced by the accessories on the shelves.

All the pottery mugs, coffee sack bags and baked goods are made in the community.

Coffee compost is picked up each week by Kelley Edkins of Gardens by Kelley for further composting; and Java Love cups are recyclable ecotainers.

“This has been the most creative and challenging venture I have taken on, other than motherhood,” said Dawson. “We have a community of incredible people supporting us, our employees and Java Love. It has truly been a labor of love.”

Java Love Coffee Roasting Co. | 10 Horseshoe Lake Road | Kauneonga Lake , NY 12749 | 845/ 707-2589 |

SPOTLIGHT ON

For the love of

Dawson, a psychologist and certified life coach, and Petrik, a marketing executive, split their time between Bethel, NY and New Jersey, where Jodie’s young daughters are in school. They see the new business as a great opportunity to be an integral part of the community with a clear commitment to the economic development of Kauneonga Lake and Sullivan County.

All of Java Love’s coffee beans are organic and imported from small-farmed growers.

Dawson and Petrik work directly with the farm representatives to ensure that the coffee they import is representative of the major coffee growing regions. So keen were they on knowing their product, the pair paid a visit to one of their primary suppliers, Hacienda la Minita Coffee Farm in Costa Rica.

Among the company’s specialty blends are Love Me, Love Me Not, a combination of caffeine and caffeine-free beans, and the seasonal Spring Fling, a blend of South and Central American and Indonesian beans.

Regardless of your caffeine taste buds, you won’t go wrong with Java Love’s Premium House Blend—a blend of South and Central American coffees with a kick of French Roast.

Two favorites among regulars are the dark, earthy, bold blends of Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and the Sumatran Iskandar.

During the winter, Java Love roasts an average of 200 to 250 pounds of coffee in total, with each 25-pound batch taking 16 minutes.

In the summer, as many as 20 roasts are done each roasting day. The hundred-plus-pound green bean coffee sacks can be stored safely for up to a year. It is unusual, however, for the coffee to stay that long prior to roasting, even in winter. Quality control is done by the farmers, the importers and by Java Love itself to insure freshness by cupping and monitoring the temperature and humidity levels.

After roasting and before grinding, the bins of coffee set for one or two days to optimize flavor. The coffee is packaged with a special valve that allows the gasses to escape while keeping oxygen circulating with the beans.

Before opening the business, “I loved the idea of coffee roasting,” said Petrik, “but of course had no real notion of what it takes. Roasting coffee is a beautiful and intense dance between chemistry and art; when you drop the beans from the roaster into the cooling bin, there is

javaloveroasters.com A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 9

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10 • upper delaware magazine

Text: Mary Greene | Photograph: TRR archives

The Zumba craze, a decade old now in the United States, has an interesting beginning. According to Wikipedia, Zumba was conceived when Columbian dancer and choreographer Alberto “Beto” Perez forgot his aerobics tape when teaching an exercise class sometime in the 1990s. He used the tapes he had, which were traditional Latin salsa and merengue music, and improvised moves for his class to go with the Latin beat. Zumba became the rage in Columbia and Perez came to the U.S., where he created a demo tape that was discovered and marketed by Fitness Quest. American Zumba was born.

Zumba choreography incorporates everything from hip hop to salsa, mambo to the martial arts and even some Bollywood and belly dance moves. There are seven different types of classes for different levels of age and exertion, including Aqua Zumba, which is performed in a swimming pool. Benefits include a cardiovascular workout as well as a huge calorie burn. Participants gain more energy and overall health by a regular practice, and keep in shape while having fun and letting loose.

There are a number of Zumba classes and offerings in the area, including one new center, Fuzion Dance Studio in Mildord, PA, devoted exclusively to Zumba. See listings here.

Zumba is also offered in many local community centers, churches and schools.

Zumba classes in New York

Zumba classes in Pennsylvania

SPOTLIGHT ON

ZUMBA! Creative Expressions Dance Studio

Berlin Township Community Center

45 Stewart Avenue Roscoe, NY 12776 607/ 498-5985 www.ce-dance.com

50 Milanville Road Beach Lake, PA 18405 570/ 729-8073

Curves 5 Triangle Road Liberty, NY 12754 845/ 292-3700

113 Seventh Street, Second Floor Milford, PA 18337 570/ 951-1757 www.dancinginmilford.com

Delaware Youth Center

Honesdale Dance Studio

8 Creamery Road Callicoon, NY 12723 845/ 887-5155 Visit us on Facebook

742 Main St # 3 Honesdale, PA 18431 570/ 251-8350

Fitness Factory 36 Forestburgh Road Monticello, NY 12701 845/ 794-7344 www.monticellofitnessfactory.com

THE STUDIO 570/807-7923 ~ 914/850-1317 113 West Harford St. Milford, PA 18337 Visit us on Facebook

Highland Yoga and Dance

Masthope Fitness Center

111 Highland Lake Road Highland Lake, NY 12743 845/557-0115 www.freewebs.com/highlandyogaanddance

Karl Hope Boulevard Lackawaxan, PA 18435 570/685-5978 Visit us on Facebook

The Janice Center for Learning the Arts

Pike Physical Therapy & Fitness Center

5296 State Route 52 Jeffersonville, NY 12748 845/482-3324 www.janicecenter.com

1346 Route 739 Dingmans Ferry, PA 18328 570/ 686-4300 www.pikephysicaltherapy-fitnessctr.com ‎

Liberty Fitness Center

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85 N Main Street Liberty, NY 12754

731 Welcome Lake Road Hawley, PA 18428 570/ 685-8000

845/292-0756 Visit us on Facebook

Fuzion Dance Studio

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 11

T

A Real Working Farm Market Y

Worth the trip from anywhere to our beautiful country farm and ice cream stand!

In Fall: Corn Mazek and U-Pics!

Pumpkin

FRESH HARD ICE CREAM and HOMEMADE FUDGE FR FFresh Home-Grown Home Grown Vegetables and Fruits Fruits, Fresh Lean Ground Beef Visit us at The Wayne County Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings.

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www.sunflowerhealthfood.com 12 • upper delaware magazine

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UDM/RR

OUT & ABOUT

A Walk into the Past The D&H Canal towpath trails Text: Jane E. Castelli | Photograph: Sandy Long

Lockhouse 31 belongs to the Wayne County Historical Society and may someday become a museum.

It’s a warm, bright and sunny day, and you’re in the mood to explore someplace new.

The 19th-century D&H canal towpaths are nearby, waiting to be discovered.

In the 1800s, before automobiles and our extensive highway system existed, water “paths” or canals were used to transport Pennsylvania coal to market in New York City. Remains of the canal towpaths exist on both the New York and Pennsylvania sides of the Delaware River. On the Pennsylvania side, the canal followed the Lackawaxen River from Honesdale to the Delaware at Lackawaxen, and then south along the Delaware to Port Jervis, NY. There the canal turned northward, following the Neversink River onward to Kingston on the Hudson. From Kingston, the canal barges went to New York City via the Hudson, linked in chains of 10 or so, towed by steamboats.

Lock house 31

For those who live in Northeast Pennsylvania, a trip on Route 6 near Honesdale is commonplace.

The road runs along Lackawaxen River. On the way north, just outside of Hawley, it passes a very old, twostory gray wood frame building, and the remains of a small storage barn. The house looks abandoned, but its architectural lines, a dignified classical two-story center hall colonial style, suggest a better day.

It is not really forgotten. It belongs to the Wayne County Historical Society, which has been raising money and gathering volunteers to transform the site into a living canal history museum and park.

The house was originally the property of a wealthy farm family, the Daniels. In 1827, the canal builders placed one of the canal locks, PA #31, right behind the house, and it became a lockhouse. While some locks on the canal had only small shanty lockhouses, this house, by contrast, is substantial.

The lock keeper opened and closed the lock gates.

When the lock filled with water, it raised the height of

the boat. Then the boat could move safely to a higher plane. Many lock tenders also ran a grocery, a tavern or hotel at the locks. According to the Wayne County Historical Society, one owner, Ernest Hintze, did open a small hotel and store there in 1878. The rear of the house has a fancy door and a porch probably used by canal customers.

The towpath Towropes and mules powered the boats. A raised towpath was built so the animals could be led along that trail. Working from dawn to dusk, children often only seven or eight years old controlled the mules, guiding them on the path. Some were the children of the boat captains whose family lived onboard, but some were orphans or runaways.

At lock 31, the Wayne County Historical Society has spent recent years clearing debris from the lock and canal beds. In addition, they have cleared litter off the towpath and mowed it to maintain about a

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 13

mile of trail suitable for hiking. They hope future volunteers and donors will help them continue to repair the house and improve the site.

If you prefer a drive in place of a walk, you can do just that. Just outside of Hawley, Route 590 east splits with another road on the right: Towpath Road, which follows the old towpath trail. It goes from Hawley all the way to Lackawaxen’s Roebling Bridge at the confluence of the Delaware and Lackawaxan rivers, about 15 miles. The scenery along this drive is magnificent. The river runs on your right, majestic and turbulent, marked by smooth eddies and churning rapids.

You’ll pass though vista after vista of wooded mountain countryside. The canal remnants are sometimes on your left side and sometimes on your right, and there are two refurbished lock houses along the way. Each has a historical sign in front. The first, at lock 22 in Kimbles, PA is on your right: a lovely New England-style dark red brown cottage just past Mount Moriah cemetery.

In the woods behind this house you can see the raised old tow path and canal ditch. Driving east a short distance, you will find the next lock house, a larger white frame home on your left at lock 19.

The area is rugged and beautiful. Imagine the lives of the young children trudging along the towpath here.

The Roebling Aqueduct At Lackawaxen, you can actually enter the canal with your car. What is now the Roebling Bridge was originally the Roebling Aqueduct, designed by John Roebling of Brooklyn Bridge fame. The aqueduct acted as a water chute, floating canal coal boats across the Delaware so that logs could be sent tumbling freely downstream on the river below. Before it was built, lumbermen and barge owners disputed who had the right of way on the river. The canal had ceased carrying barges in 1898, and the Roebling Bridge opened to passenger vehicles in 1901.

Places to rest and eat along the way In Hawley, near lock 31, stop for a splendid lunch or dinner and stay overnight at the elegant Settlers Inn. If traveling with your family, you might enjoy Woodloch Pines, seven miles outside of town. At the bridge, The Lackawaxen Inn has a gorgeous view of the river from its deck. Lunch here would be a treat. Nearby is the lovely Roebling Inn B & B, built in 1870 by the D&H Canal Company. You might also visit the neighboring Zane Grey Museum.

And as you travel these old roads and paths, you might get a glimpse of the ghosts of our ancestors there, working hard.

The New York side On the New York side of the Delaware River, there is a section of towpath maintained by the National Park Service and beginning at the Roebling Bridge. The tow path was damaged in last summer’s storms, so you would need to determine its condition before heading out for a walk along its length, which is under a mile.

Other spots in New York to visit include the The Minisink Valley Historical Society walking trail at Grand View Ave. and West Main St. in Port Jervis, and two New York canal museums with extensive exhibits: the Neversink Valley Museum, in Cuddebackville (845/754-8870), and the D&H Canal Museum and Historical Society in High Falls. (845/687-9311).

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14 • upper delaware magazine

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 15

The River Reporter’s 17th Annual THE BEST BALLOT IS BACK!

We have added some new categories to our extensive best ballot! There are 240 categories but you do not have to ll all of them out. We ask that you simply vote for the people, places or businesses that you think are the best. Thank you for your participation and we look forward to receiving your choices.

We will publish our 2012 WINNERS in our annual Reader’s Choice Awards “BEST” supplement in January 2013.

Good Luck to all!

BEST PLACES FOR FOOD & DRINK Appetizers _______________________ Artisan Bakery ____________________ Bakery _________________________ Barbecue ________________________ Beer Selection _____________________ Breakfast ________________________ Brunch _________________________ Buffet/Smorgasbord _________________ Candy Shop ______________________ Cheesesteak Sandwich ________________ Chinese Restaurant __________________ Coffee House _____________________ Deli ___________________________ Desserts ________________________ Diner __________________________ Dinner _________________________ Early Bird Specials __________________ Family Restaurant __________________ French Fries ______________________ Fresh Bread ______________________ Fresh Meats ______________________ Gourmet Restaurant _________________ Grocery Store/Supermarket _____________ Hamburgers ______________________ Happy Hour ______________________ Health Food Store __________________ Home Cookin’ Restaurant ______________ Hot Dogs ________________________ Ice Cream Parlor ___________________ Italian Restaurant __________________

Kid-Friendly Restaurant _______________ Liquor Store ______________________ Lunch __________________________ Martinis_________________________ Menu __________________________ New Restaurant (non-chain) ____________ Pasta Dish _______________________ Pizza __________________________ Produce_________________________ Outdoor Dining ____________________ Overall Restaurant: in Delaware County __________________ in Orange County __________________ in Pike County ____________________ in Sullivan County __________________ in Wayne County___________________ in the Region ____________________ Ribs ___________________________ Romantic Restaurant _________________ Salad __________________________ Sandwiches ______________________ Seafood_________________________ Soups __________________________ Specialty Food Store _________________ Steakhouse ______________________ Vegetarian Food/Restaurant ____________ Wedding/Specialty Cakes ______________ Wine Selection ____________________ Wings __________________________

BEST PLACES TO SHOP Antique Store _____________________ Art Supplies Store __________________ ATVs___________________________ Auto Parts Store____________________ Baby/Kids Store ____________________ Bait & Tackle Store __________________ Boat Dealer ______________________ Bookstore _______________________ Car Dealership ____________________ Clothing Store _____________________ Collectibles Store ___________________ Convenience Store __________________ Electronics _______________________ Farm Equipment Retailer ______________ Flooring Store _____________________ Florist __________________________ Furniture Store ____________________ Garden Center_____________________ Gift Shop ________________________

Hardware Store ____________________ Hot Tub Store _____________________ Jewelry Store _____________________ Kitchen Supply Store _________________ Knit Shop________________________ Lumberyard ______________________ Mattress Store _____________________ Medical Equipment Store ______________ Motorcycle Shop ____________________ Music Store_______________________ Outdoor Recreation Store ______________ Pet Shop ________________________ Place to Buy Art ____________________ Pottery Studio _____________________ Specialty Store (not food) ______________ Sporting Goods Shop_________________ Tire Store _______________________ Vintage Shop _____________________ Wine Shop _______________________

16 • upper delaware magazine

2012 READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

BEST BUSINESSES & SERVICES Auto Service Station _________________ Bank __________________________ Beauty Parlor _____________________ Builder’s Association _________________ Cellular Service Provider ______________ Christmas Tree Farm _________________ Eye Care Center ____________________ Elder Care Facility __________________ Emergency Room ___________________ Fitness Center _____________________ Funeral Home _____________________ Green Business ____________________ Heating Fuel Company _______________ Home & Garden Store ________________ Hospital/Medical Facility ______________ Insurance Agency ___________________ Kennel _________________________ Kid’s Camp _______________________ Kitchen & Bath Store _________________ Maternity Unit _____________________ Modular Homes ____________________

Mortgage Company _________________ New Business of the Year (not food) ________ Pet Grooming _____________________ Pet Pampering ____________________ Pharmacy _______________________ Photography Studio _________________ Plumbing & Heating Supply ____________ Property Management Service ___________ Rehabilitation Services________________ Rental Center _____________________ Real Estate Office ___________________ Septic Service _____________________ Spa or Personal Pampering_____________ Storage Center ____________________ Towing Service ____________________ Trash Collection Service _______________ Tuxedo Rentals ____________________ Veterinarian Clinic __________________ Well Driller ______________________ Yoga Center ______________________

BEST OF OUR COMMUNITY Ambulance Squad __________________ Animal Shelter ____________________ Chamber of Commerce________________ Chicken BBQ (volunteer) ______________ Civic Club or Organization _____________ Community Festival or Event ____________ Fair ___________________________ Farm Market______________________ Fire Department ___________________ Historic Site ______________________ Library _________________________ Local: Artist_________________________ Author ________________________ Celebrity ______________________ Farm_________________________ Getaway ______________________ Golf Pro _______________________ Musician/Band ___________________ Photographer ___________________ Potter ________________________ Local Products: Cheese________________________

Eggs _________________________ Meats ________________________ Maple Syrup ____________________ Wine _________________________ Most Attractive Building _______________ Museum ________________________ Neighborhood _____________________ Pancake Breakfast __________________ Parade _________________________ Penny Social ______________________ Place to Play Bingo__________________ Place in the River Valley _______________ Place of Worship ___________________ Post Office _______________________ Radio Station _____________________ Secret Treasure ____________________ Scenic Drive ______________________ Shopping Area ____________________ Special Area Attraction _______________ Sullivan Renaissance Project ____________ Youth Center ______________________ Youth Program ____________________

BEST PEOPLE Accountant _______________________ Architect ________________________ Auto Mechanic _____________________ Bank Teller_______________________ Barber _________________________ Bartender _______________________ Builder _________________________ Butcher _________________________ Caterer _________________________ Carpenter _______________________ Car Salesman _____________________ Chef __________________________ Chiropractor ______________________ Clergy __________________________ Coach __________________________ Customer Service ___________________ Dentist _________________________ Doctor__________________________ Electrician _______________________ Event Planner _____________________ Excavator ________________________ Green Developer ___________________

Holistic Practitioner__________________ Interior Decorator __________________ Landscaper_______________________ Lawyer _________________________ Law Enforcement Officer_______________ Massage Therapist __________________ Medical Specialist ___________________ Ob-Gyn _________________________ Painter _________________________ Pediatrician ______________________ Plumber ________________________ Politician ________________________ Postmaster _______________________ Radio Personality ___________________ Real Estate Agent ___________________ Roofer _________________________ Salesperson ______________________ Teacher _________________________ Waiter/Waitress ____________________ Web Designer _____________________ Yoga Teacher _____________________

HOW TO VOTE: Print clearly or type your choices for “THE BEST” from the categories listed. Include the name and town of business, organization, place or person you are voting for. Best choices are limited to Delaware, Orange, Pike, Sullivan and Wayne counties.

HOW TO ENTER: NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Additional ballots are available at The River Reporter ofce at 93 Erie Ave, Narrowsburg, NY—LIMIT ONE PER PERSON. Ballots MUST be complete and include full name, address and phone number of voter. All ballots must be received by December 23, 2012. Employees of The River Reporter and Stuart Communications are permitted to vote but not eligible to win prizes.

HOW TO WIN PRIZES: All ballots will be included in a random drawing for prizes. Drawing will be held January 2013. No duplicate winners. Chances to win are determined by the number of entries. BEST Winners will be notied in January 2013.

OFFICIAL "BEST" BALLOT ENTRY FORM PLEASE PRINT CLEARLY Name __________________________________________________________ Address ________________________________________________________ City, State, Zip ___________________________________________________ Phone _________________________________________________________

BEST PLACES Amusement/Fun Park ________________ Art Gallery _______________________ Atmosphere ______________________ Bed & Breakfast ___________________ Canoe Livery______________________ Campground______________________ Cider Mill ________________________ College _________________________ Day Trip ________________________ Golf Course ______________________ Horseback Riding ___________________ Movie Theatre _____________________

Night Out________________________ Place to have a Drink ________________ Place to Hold a Prom ________________ Place to Stay ______________________ Place to take the Kids ________________ Place to Work _____________________ Playhouse Theatre __________________ Private School _____________________ Resort __________________________ Ski Lodge _______________________ Wedding Reception Location ____________ Winery _________________________

E-mail _________________________________________________________

I am a current subscriber I buy it on newsstands

MAIL BALLOT ENTRY FORMS TO: The River Reporter “BEST” PO Box 150, Narrowsburg, NY 12764

or DROP OFF AT:

93 Erie Avenue, Narrowsburg, NY 12764

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 17

onesdale, PA is a town that grew up around transportation; specifically, the gravity railroad that ran from Carbondale coal country downhill to Honesdale and the D&H Canal, where the coal was further transported to Kingston, New York City and beyond.

Honesdale retains much of its historic, classic feel, and in recent years has seen an influx of art galleries, new shops and businesses. The walking tour below will give a feel for the character of the borough as well as some of its most scenic features. You’ll discover the historic district, the vibrant business district and one or two things off the beaten path.

You will be walking south on Main (with a few detours) about half a city mile to 4th Street. Here, Main Street bifurcates to Route 6 East on the left and Route 191 on the right.

Main Street The sidewalk begins on 17th Street and North Main, a few blocks north of the Wayne County Public Library.

This part of town constitutes the historic district, and many of the wellmaintained homes date from the 1800s.

(For more information visit http:// bit.ly/LPmoqa.)As you walk over the Park Street Bridge (Route 6), the homes become businesses. Walk one more block and you arrive at 11th Street, hosting cafes, a yarn shop, the Maude Alley complex, an art gallery and art supply store combination.

Cindy Blair’s Tie-Dye Café (570/4701331) at 1029 Main Street is a great place to get a smoothie or a cappuccino.

After you’ve gotten fueled up, shop the art and home designs at The Hanson Gallery and Decorium (www.the hansongallery.com) at 1037 Main Street, and observe all the activity at the Cooperage (570/253-2020) just across Main at 1030. Under renovation, the Cooperage is scheduled to open in June. It will offer theatrical and music performances, workshops, films and a range of opportunities for community gatherings. WJFF, the Upper Delaware

valley’s community public radio station, is scheduled to open its satellite studio there. Meanwhile, it hosts a farmers market every Wednesday from 4 to 6 p.m.

If you are in the mood for whimsy, The Maude Alley (4) complex will satisfy (you can visit them on Facebook).

The complex houses Freedlove and Milkweed on Main (2), and the little alley beyond the wrought iron gates, with Toad R’s and Sweet Eden (6), is a treat for the senses. Creators Paul Ludick and Bill Anton have fashioned an atmosphere of old-world charm and modernity; the shops are tasteful, whimsical and filled with hand-made items such as woven recycled mats of reclaimed Maine fishing rope, crocodile toys and home décor.

Step out the back door into the garden and smell the baked goods wafting from Sweet Eden. Joan Spencer is an experienced baker and prepares her fare in one of two commercial kitchens. All of the pastry is delicious, but Joan especially prides herself on her blueberry pie, a recipe from her grandmother. Regulars recommend Sweet Eden’s brownies, lemon squares and sumptuous cheesecake.

If it’s lunch time, drop by Jennz Café (570/253-3231) at 951 Main Street, adjacent to Nature’s Grace (5) (a great place to buy health food products). Jennz Café, celebrating its 10th anniversary in July, is one of the friendliest spots in town, reasonably priced and open seven days a week. Regulars are offered a membership in the Breakfast Club and on a Saturday morning you may have to wait for a table.

Text and Photograp

1 3

Commercial Street If it’s time to walk off these food treats, cross Main Street to Chapel and walk up the gentle hill, passing Jeanne’s Hair Salon on the left, to Commercial Street.

While all of Honesdale is seeing a renaissance, this side of town may become known as NoHo (North Honesdale), as warehouses and commercial spaces are renovated and replaced with galleries, antique shops, restaurants and artists’ studios (1).

2

4

Honesdale hosts many openings, activities, festivals and fairs during the spring and summer months. For more information visit the Wayne County Chamber of Commerce at 32 Commercial Street, or call 570/253-1960, or visit www.waynecountycc.com.

18 • upper delaware

phs | S. Zoe Hecht

5

6

Dan and Joanne Brinkerhoff are renovating space adjacent to Dan’s workshop at 67 Commercial Street that will soon house a gallery (www. danbrinkerhoff.com).

Dan has been busy in the workshop creating furniture, bird houses, bird baths, sinks, paintings and many other examples of his eclectic, inventive style.

Dan is known in the community for his traveling movie theater, and his inventive popcorn machine. He’s making a new version and it is certain to be remarkable.

Dan works on commission and although his workspace is sacrosanct, you may see one of his finished pieces out front.

Just a few doors down, you’ll come onto The Sanctuary of Oils at 61 Commercial Street, a perfect name for this serene space. Maya Minwah, a poet, shaman and aromatherapist, offers healing circles and workshops on a variety of subjects, and does individual sessions as well. Mayasblends “Aromatherapy for Awakening” is her own line of blended essential oils that help cleanse and balance the body, and sooth and heal the soul. With her partner, Thomas Deerheart, a drum maker, Maya often has drumming circles at the sanctuary. Check http://bit.ly/ JsWG9 for more information about programs, workshops and offerings, and Mayasblends essential oils.

Also on Commercial Street, the Wayne County Chamber of Commerce sponsors a farmers market every Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Bring your string bag (although one might not be enough) and peruse the rich offerings of vegetables, cheese products, breads, crafts and specialty meats in front of the Wayne County Visitors Center. About two dozen local farmers and growers participate. For more information call (570/760-6509) or visit waynecountycc.com.

With fresh produce in your basket, you may be considering a new recipe and wondering if you have all the right equipment to prepare it. Keep strolling to the end of Commercial Street, veer right to the Delaware Hudson Hotel’s

esplanade and safely walk over to The Kitchen Center at the Knife Store (570/253-6363). Owner Terrie Murray prides the store as “The one-stop shopping for all your culinary needs.”

Cooking, baking and kitchen tools are plentiful, and knife sharpening is done as well.

More highlights Branko’s Patisserie du Jour (570/253-0311) at 501 Main Street and 5th has a European atmosphere and a master chef in its owner, Branko Bozic.

Trendsetters, the Bozics opened the café more than seven years ago, and offer a wide variety of gourmet dishes, including homemade hollandaise, a luscious sliced lamb sandwich and Brooklyn Nova Scotia on a chewy bagel. Visit www. brankos-patisserie.com.

Shopping opportunities on this side of Main Street should not be overlooked, so check out Wallflower, Rachel’s Closet, Van Gorders Furniture, Country Dawn and many more.

Don’t neglect Church Street, because this is where you’ll find the Cottage Café (570/253-3663). This charming, beach-themed café has indoor and outdoor seating, where Tom and Jamie Maher provide a country look and a gourmet menu. Cottage Café also delivers locally, and you can order a takeout lunch and walk over to the 4th Street Bridge at Court Street, or stroll farther down to Central Park. For menus and more, visit www.cottagecafepa. com.

Central Park (3) is a comfortable place to rest and relax, take in some local sights and view a piece of Honesdale history. Just opposite the park, at 922 Church Street, is where Richard B. Smith, the lyricist of the famous “Winter Wonderland,” was born. The song was inspired by Smith’s view of Central Park from his bedroom window.

Winter or summer, walking Honesdale is a pleasure. Parking on residential streets is free, but the business district is metered, so remember to bring quarters, one for each hour of leisurely strolling.

Also, visit the Wayne County Historical Society at 801 Main Street, Honesdale, PA 18431, 570/ 253-3240, www.waynehistorypa.org.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 19

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SPOTLIGHT ON

Time and the Valleys Museum Text: Mary Greene | Photograph: Time and the Valleys Museum

Donna Steffens, director of Time and the Valleys Museum in Grahamsville, NY, is no slouch.

She has “worked in the museum field forever,” beginning with a position as membership manager at Cooper Hewitt in New York City and then a stint with the Historical Society of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. She served as executive director of the Neversink Museum and D&H Canal Park for about ten years, up until 2000, when she took some time off from her career to devote herself to mothering. But when the Time and the Valleys project came along, it was a perfect fit, time wise and for all involved.

What distinguishes the newly established Time and the Valleys Museum?

“I have never worked at any museum anywhere,” she said, “that has as skilled and dedicated a group of volunteers as Time and the Valleys. Our board is also very active. We’ve been open a year, and just keeping it open equals the efforts of three volunteers.”

In May, two of her volunteers—Dave Forche and Jack Clark—received Sullivan Pride awards from the Town of Neversink for their work in the museum. Forche, with Clark’s help, donated time, labor and skills to create a large reception desk, dioramas, cabinets, shelves, oak molding and so on, said Steffens. The rest of her large volunteer cadre helps with research, the website, hands-on tasks at the museum and much more.

Time and the Valleys, which is housed in a new wing of the Daniel Pierce Library, opened in June of 2011. It was a big volunteer effort to create the space for the museum and to think about expansion. Its first exhibits included a temporary showing of Manville Wakefield paintings, and an exhibit (also temporary) on quilts and quilting. Steffens and her volunteers and the board created a permanent exhibit about how water has impacted life in the Rondout and Neversink watersheds, including geology, history and culture. This exhibit is being continued in theme with a new exhibit about water and the reservoir system, under development now.

This will be a permanent, hands-on exhibit

that will illuminate both ends of the story: the fascinating tale of the New York City water supply, and the sacrifices that were made to supply it. It will detail how the water is kept clean and purified, and also the five (count ‘em) towns that were lost in the Rondout and Neversink watersheds as the reservoir systems were envisioned and created. The exhibit will be historical and educational in nature, including lots of photos and hands-on displays, connecting the effect of urban water needs on the rural Catskills.

It will address current issues of clean water, past pollution and the balance of shifting priorities.

The exhibit opens officially in October, but this spring and summer, said Steffens, visitors to the museum can walk through a tunnel that is a recreation of a section of the Delaware Aqueduct tunnel. To bring the history home, visitors can also view a full-sized working pump that would have been used in Manhattan during the Revolutionary War, before there was access to clean upstate water.

Currently, the museum is premiering a new exhibit called “The Family Farm 1920-1950.”

The exhibit, which opened on May 5, reflects the strong farming history of the Neversink region and the western Catskills. “The exhibit was put together mainly by volunteers,” said Steffens, “who, by family history or their own experience, know a lot about the subject.”

The exhibit includes unique and fascinating farm implements such as a “dog treadle,” which enticed the farm dogs to do their laps to churn the farm’s butter. The rich photographic displays include work by renowned local photographer LaVerne Black, showcasing barns and farming landscapes in the region.

Steffens has two children in middle school in the Pine Bush school district, where she lives, and so she is a busy lady. “I am juggling things all the time,” she said. But, under her dedicated tutelage, with the help of her board and volunteers, Time and the Valleys is gaining steam and stature, and is well worth a visit. It’s a great way to discover our farming—and water—heritage: past, present and future.

Volunteers Carol Smythe, left, and Dorothy Muthig clean the fanning mill for the new family farm exhibit.

Time and the Valleys Museum PO Box 307 Grahamsville, NY 12740 845/985-7700 timeandthevalleysmuseum.org

Spring/Summer Hours:

Thursday to Sunday 12 noon to 4 p.m. or by appointment Members are free Non members: $2 adults, $1 children

UPCOMING EVENTS Sunday, June 9

Old-Time Remedies from Your Kitchen Cabinet 2 p.m.

Time and the Valleys Museum

Saturday, June 9

Fund Raising Country Auction Grahamsville Fairgrounds, State Route 55 11 a.m., rain or shine Antiques, furniture, prints, equipment, household items and collectibles, gift items, glassware, artwork. Food and drink available. Admission is free.

Saturday July 28

Old Time Fair and BBQ Grahamsville Fairgrounds, State Route 55 All day, rain or shine Horseshoe pitching, corn shucking, lady’s skillet throwing, children’s old fashioned games, ice cream making demonstration and tasting, Chestnut Creek ball race, pie auction, local history exhibits, spinning and quilting demonstrations. Admission is free with a nominal fee for some games and food.

Miller’s Chicken Barbecue, eat-in or take-out, 1 to 5 p.m.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 21

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THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT SUMMER in the Upper Delaware River valley

9. Shopping at the local Farmers Markets 10. Sipping on a freshly squeezed screwdriver at Rohman’s Pub, Shohola, PA

1. Watching the 4th of July Parade on Main Street, Narrowsburg NY 2. Taking a tour of Grey Towers National Historic Site, Milford, PA 3. Dining on the deck at Cedar Rapids, scenic Route 97 in Barryville, NY 4. Sushi pizza at Bar Louie located in The Hotel Fauchere, Milford, PA

11. Hiking the cliffs in Lordsville, NY

20.

12. Stepping back in time at the Zane Grey Museum, Lackawaxan, PA

21. Jazz on the deck at Settler’s Inn, Hawley, PA

13. Visiting The Museum at Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, Bethel, NY

22. Pick-your-own flowers at the Cutting Garden, Youngsville, NY

14. Hiking the Tusten Mountain Trail, Narrowsburg, NY

23. Enjoying a concert on the lawn at Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, Bethel, NY

5. Rafting on the Delaware River

15. Taking a boat ride on Lake Wallenpaupack, Hawley, PA 6. A Cup of Iced Coffee at Java Love, Kauneonga Lake, NY 7. Blueberry picking at Paupack Blueberry Farm, Paupack, PA 8. Driving on scenic Route 97

16. Catching a musical at The Forestburgh Playhouse, Forestburgh, NY 17. Antiquing in Hawley, PA

24. RiverFest in July on Main Street, Narrowsburg, NY

18. Shopping downtown Honesdale, PA

25. Having supper at The Glass Bar & Bistro, Ledges Hotel, Hawley, PA

19. Enjoying a Saturday matinee at Callicoon Theater, Callicoon, NY

26. UDGLBT’s First Friday Mixer at the Water Wheel Cafe, Milford, PA

For more things to do, check out the WHERE & WHEN CALENDAR on page 34 or online at www.RiverReporter.com A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 23

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24 • upper delaware magazine

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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 25

‘SPARE’ TIME? Let’s go bowling!

Text: Jonathan Fox | Photographs: TRR Archives

Every so often, I hear friends complaining that there is little to do in the Upper Delaware River valley. While this is hardly the case, one could argue that inclement weather sometimes interferes with plans. There is one activity that is apt to cheer the grumpiest of vacationers or local curmudgeons, and that is bowling.

A dubious past Attempting to “pin” down the origins of bowling proved difficult, since there are several cultures that claim it for their own. An internet search led me to believe that Egyptian artifacts discovered in the 1930s led British anthropologist Sir Finders Petrie to declare that objects found in a child’s grave brought him to the conclusion that King Tut may have bowled. (Whew!)

Countering that claim, German historian William Pehle asserted that bowling began in his country about 300 AD. To complicate matters, “there is substantial evidence that a form of bowling was in vogue in England in 1366, when King Edward III allegedly outlawed it to keep his troops focused on archery practice” (www. bowlingmuseum.com).

However the game began, bowling is emblematic of American culture. Loved by teenagers, bowling league aficionados and mothers with a houseful of bored rainy-day children, bowling has not only endured the test of time but has seen a rise in popularity over the years. Bowling News USA reports that consumer participation is steadily increasing, with nearly 70 million flocking to the bowling alley to rent unattractive shoes and hoist six- to 20-pound balls yearly since 2009. In addition to more typical bowling establishments, our area features several retro lanes where customers have to reset pins themselves, and these are a trip down memory “lane.”

Whatever your taste, your age or eye-hand coordination, next time you can’t think of anything to do—go bowling!

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Kiamesha Lanes 4685 State Route 42 Kiamesha Lake, NY 12751 845/794-5561

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26 • upper delaware magazine

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Rohman’s Inn and Pub 100 Rohman Road Shohola, PA 18458 570/ 559-7479 A favorite of locals, this historic bar restaurant has many features that appeal to the eye and the fancy, such as the old bar stools that came from the club car of a train. It also has a small bowling alley where you set your own pins. Be sure to call for availability, and ask for a tour of the inn.

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SPOTLIGHT ON

LEDGES Text: Mary Greene | Photographs: Ledges Hotel

On a recent Saturday night, I took a drive out to Hawley, PA to the Ledges Hotel, where I was meeting friends for dinner before attending a poetry reading at the Hawley Silk Mill. Before my meal, I sat down with an excellent glass of Argentinean Malbec and Ledges general manager Marla Tremsky.

We sat on the Glass Deck, one of four outdoor decks of varying heights. Our view provided a dramatic vista of the magnificent rock ledges and waterfalls that give the hotel its name. The waterfalls are created by natural runoff from wetlands extending out of the large, man-made Lake Waullenpaupack in Hawley.

The area used to be called the Waullenpaupack Creek Gorge. The atmosphere was dramatic and intimate at the same time: the falls rushing by, the trees greening out across the gorge, a wedge of sky and the historic Silk Mill building looming in the distance. It’s a view that makes you look up, and then down, and then up again, as hawks wheel overhead and Beatles classics play from the sound system.

The guests at the hotel and at its Glass Wine Bar & Bistro were dressed casually, as were the wait staff and Tremsky herself. “Come to Ledges and chill” is the message Tremsky wants her guests to feel. Ledges has 11 standard rooms and eight two-floor suites that are 900 square feet and feature a spiral staircase and a “rain shower” that simulates rain in its pressure and trajectory.

The Ledges, which is closely connected in ownership and development to the Silk Mill, was originally

the O’Connor Glass Factory, built from hand-cut bluestone in 1890. Architects from Bohlin Cywinski Jackson out of Wilkes-Barre, PA were commissioned to preserve the original character of the factory as much as possible, while creating contemporary spaces designed for comfort and beauty. Local materials were used and repurposed whenever possible; for instance, the modern-style beds and tables in the rooms are built from the original Silk Mill wooden trusses. Contemporary art, usually regional and always for sale, adorns the walls of the hotel. In addition, guest products are made from all natural and organic ingredients.

The Ledges has many places to sit outdoors and soak up the sun, or walk by the gorge or up the road to the Silk Mill for shopping and coffee. It also has a cozy sitting room with big couches and a fire place, where you can curl up with a glass of tea and a book or a gathering of friends. There is also a special outdoor space that is atmospheric and lovely, called the “Ruin.” It has walls but no roof; it has a concrete floor and chairs scattered about. During my visit, there was a solo guy who appeared to be napping in the Ruin, cell phone in hand and a beer on the table beside him.

The wine bar and bistro opens at 5 p.m. and serves dinner only, and specializes in “small plates,” which can be shared communally at the table, although it is perfectly possible to fashion a meal for one person if that is desired. The portions were larger than I

expected and generally good. The wine bar and bistro is changing up its menu as of Memorial Day, said Trempsky, to an “all American concept. We are serving American favorites and classics.” Not everything is local, but everything is regional, and many dishes are fashioned with local ingredients “to leverage on the bounty of this region.” The menu is complemented with a classic American dessert list (“think Strawberry Shortcake,” said Trempsky) as well as an exclusively American wine and beer list.

The wine bar and bistro is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. In July and August, the hotel is launching an original concept of offering “club service” on those days, akin, said Trempsky, to the club car on a train.

“It will be a short-order bar menu,” she said, and they will even serve individual bottles of liquor with mixers like you might get in a hotel room or on an airplane. If the concept is popular, they may continue it beyond the summer months.

Go for the view, the wine, the small plates and historic atmosphere. Be advised that Ledges is a little hard to find, even with directions. If you don’t know your way, it might be easier to park at the Hawley Silk Mill and walk down the road past the gate to the Ledges. Once you do get there, settle in and enjoy.

And don’t be fooled by the casual attire. “Even though we are casual,” said Trempsky, “we offer wonderful service. We offer customized attention, razzle dazzle, we have it all. It’s just not all buttoned up.”

Ledges Hotel | 120 Falls Avenue | Hawley, PA 18428 | 570/226-1337 | www.ledgeshotel.com A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 29

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MONTHLY SALES FLYER

Everything is better by Starlight!

OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR Monday – Saturday: Breakfast 8-10am Lunch 12noon-2pm • Dinner 5-9pm Sunday: Breakfast 8-10am Brunch 10:30am-2pm • Dinner 4-8pm The Inn offers a comfortable and charming respite for the vacationer or for that extra room when family or friends come to visit.

Every Monday – SEAFOOD NIGHT $15.95 per person, complete dinners Every Wednesday – PASTA NIGHT All-you-can-eat $9.95

Regular menu always available

289 Starlight Lake Road • Starlight, PA 18461

800-248-2519 • www.innatstarlightlake.com

30 • upper delaware magazine

F

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3344 Route 97 Barryville, NY 845-557-5000

O

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IT!

G

• Heirloom Garden Seeds

IN

• Special Orders

H

• Case Discounts

IS

• Bulk Items

IN

• Homemade Soups & Salads

W

G

• Daily Lunches

S

WEAR

IN

• Organic Grassfed Meats

IM

T

• Body Care & Supplements

M

A

• Organic Fresh Smoothies & Juices

Your neighborhood shop for local foods, beer, chocolates, cheese, baked goods, coffees, soaps, home accessories, gifts and more!

G

O

• Raw Milks & Cheeses

IN

B

• Gluten Free

In 2011 5 people drowned in the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River

3 were swimming 1 was shing 1 was boating 0 were wearing life jackets

www.nps.gov/upde River conditions: 845-252-7100

Just a 90 minute drive from New York City and even less from North Jersey 1.800.882.CATS | www.scva.net

EVERY SATURDAY

.

10AM - 1PM

Route 97 in Barryville, NY (Behind The River Market)

. RAIN or SHINE

May 19th through October 27th

LEARN

“Farmers Teach” an educational/demonstration series @ 11 AM on select market dates.

SUPPORT

The market will feature locally grown produce, ϐ , free range meats, eggs, baked goods, jams, artisanal cheeses + more.

Educational series presented by the Barryville Greenmarket Foundation, Ltd. With funding from the Pratt-Heins Foundation BarryvilleFarmersMarket.com

Hotel Rooms and Cottages...

In the Catskill Mountains

Welcome!

70 MILES NORTH OF NEW YORK CITY IN THE ROLLING, WHISPERING HILLS OF WURTSBORO, NY PERFECT FOR VACATIONS • GATHERINGS • FAMILY REUNIONS • MEETINGS

Perched under puffy white clouds and sparking blue skies, the fresh air and sunshine are endless, and the location spectacular! Enjoy peaceful wilderness, yet be within walking distance to small-town shops and restaurants.

Select from a relaxing room in our remodeled lodge or one of our cozy, newly renovated cottages. Lined in natural knotty pine, the cottages have private bathrooms with eat-in kitchens and bedroom air conditioning.

BANQUET FACILITIES Planning an event? We specialize in family reunions, parties, showers, pig roasts, corporate meetings and more. Valley Brook can accommodate up to 75 guests in our banquet hall and up to 110 guests for lodging.

845.888.0330 www.ValleyBrookInn.com

845-583-7133 AFFORDABLE ANTIQUES HOME GARDEN GIFTS CUT FLOWERS IN SEASON

Domesticities & LODGING

201 Kingston Avenue | Route 209 | Wurtsboro, NY

Indoor/Outdoor Lakefront Dining Live Music Children’s Menu & Playroom Lunch & Dinner • Sunday Brunch Free WiFi Summer Hours: Open Every Day Call For Seasonal Changes

The Cutting Garden

ON SITE AMENITIES INCLUDE:

Fair Trade

UÊÊ > µÕiÌÊÀ ÊÜ Ì ÊwÀi« >ViÊ & floor to ceiling windows

Locally Made

UÊÊ `ÃÊ« >Þ}À Õ `Ê>Ài> UÊÊ "ÕÌ` ÀÊ*>Û UÊÊ "ÕÌ` ÀÊ*

4 0 5 5 R t e . 5 2 , Yo u n g s v i l l e , N Y • 8 4 5 - 4 8 2 - 3 3 3 3 • w w w . t h e c u t t i n g g a r d e n . o r g

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 31

Just a 90 minute drive from New York City and even less from North Jersey 1.800.882.CATS | www.scva.net The Award Winning

Front Porch Cafe Dinner Thursday-Saturday 5:30-9pm

Homemade Baked Goods

by Special Order OPEN EARLY FOR DINNER on BETHEL WOODS CONCERT NIGHTS

Visit our Martini Lounge and Intimate Tuscan Dining Room

Catering & Small Private Parties Available Rt. 17B • White Lake, NY • 845-583-4838 Call for summer schedule & hours

32 • upper delaware magazine

ce i r P t s e w Lo ery v i l e D e e Fr

Get ready for your mountaintop dining experience. You’re going to love the view, the service, the ambiance, and most of all... the food.

The Summit Restaurant is open to the public year-round with special events and live entertainment. Join us on our outside patio for our Tikki bar.

THE SUMMIT

RESTAURANT & GRILL ROOM AT MASTHOPE MOUNTAIN

A Wonderful Year-round Dining Experience With Magnicent Views

Hybrid Hot Tubs from $2,695

J-Angelo

World’s Most Energy-Efficient Plug ‘n’ Play Spas!

8 Different Models!

SAVE When You Buy It SAVE When You Run It SAVE The Environment

150t h Annual

For more information contact 570-685-1173 or check us out on the web at www.summitrestaurant.net for our full menu.

Style & Location Invitations & Flowers Photography & Catering

EVENT PLANNING Voted Rive r Reporter R eaders

1-800-845-6559 soakupsomefun.com

OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 196 Karl Hope Blvd., Lackawaxen, PA 570-685-1173 • www.summitrestaurant.net

Planning a party? We offer several banquet and wedding packages to t your needs and budget while offering a panoriamic view of the mountains.

BEST HOT TUB STOR E

J-Angelo Where Memories Begin

11 years ru n

ning

2465 Gold Key Estates •Milford, PA 18337 • 570.686.9873 james@j-angelo.com | www.j-angelo.com

One place, one price.. Countless memories!

Wayne Count y Fairgrounds locat ed on Rt e 191 N. Honesdale, PA 18431

AUGUST 3-11, 2012 * MIDWAY OPENS AT 12 NOON * EVENT TICKETS ON SALE NOW! Monster Truck Show Sat., Aug. 11 7:30 pm Adults $12 per ticket Kids (12 & under) $8 per ticket

Jake Owen Thurs, Aug. 9th 7:30pm Track Seats $25 Grandstand Seats $15

SHOW TICKETS ON SALE NOW!

NYTPA Tractor Pull Competition Friday, August 10 7 pm, $5 per ticket

MIDWAY RIDES * LIVE ENTERTAINMENT THRILL SHOWS * FARM ANIMALS

$8 PAY ONE PRICE Per person (24 mos. & older) *All rides have posted Height requirements.

For Show Ticket information go to www.waynecountyfair.com Also available at Dirlam Brothers Lumber Co, Honesdale, PA Note: Event Tickets do not include admission to the fairgrounds.

570-253-5486

For Complete Schedules and Ticket Information go to www.waynecountyfair.com A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 33

event calendar Upper Delaware Magazine presents an eclectic mix of things to do in the area. Please contact your local chamber for other events, and be sure to check out the vast array of art openings, craft fairs, penny socials, community suppers, music concerts, farmers markets and theater performances in the region.

Fri., May 18 ‘An Evening of One-Act Plays’

South Fallsburg — Presented by Sullivan County Dramatic Workshop at Rivoli Theatre, Fri. & Sat. 8pm, Sun. 2pm. 845/436-5336 or 434-7232.

Big Drum/Small World

Bethel — Event Gallery performance

by JazzReach at Bethel Woods, 11pm, free admission (ticket required).

BethelWoodsCenter.org or 800/7453000.

Garden Club flower sale

Roscoe — Annuals, vegetables & perennials for sale at the fire dept., 10am-4pm. 607/498-4738.

PA’s hummingbirds

Greentown — Learn how to attract hummingbirds & watch a DVD “Hooked on Hummingbirds!” at Promised Land State Park conference room, 6pm, free. RSVP: 570/676-0567.

Wetlands & edible aquifers

Hawley — Wetland hike w/ Nick Spinelli at PPL Wallenpaupack Environmental Learning Center, 6-7pm, free. RSVP: 570/253-7001.

Intro to Birding I & II

Dingmans Ferry — Hike w/ Mark Gamer focusing on bird ID, history & migration at PEEC, 5/19 8-10am, 5/20 9-11am, members free, non-members $5. 570/828-2310.

Intro to fishing

Dingmans Ferry — Learn fishing basics & fish w/ provided equipment at PEEC, 10am-noon, $10. 570/8282310.

Milford walking tour

Milford — Learn about the Pinchot family while walking through Milford, 11am, $6, $5 seniors. Meet on Milford Community House lawn. RSVP: 570/296-9630.

Outdoor photography workshop Lake Ariel — Lunch at Lacawac Sanctuary’s Great Camp Lodge, 1pm, followed by workshop to sharpen skills w/ modern digital cameras. RSVP: 570/689-9494.

Plant swap & sale

Callicoon — Under the tent in Callicoon Creek Park, 10am-2pm.

Benefits the park & community concerts. 845/887-3105.

Spring plant & book sale

Wurtsboro — Mamakating Library, 10am-2pm.

Sun., May 20

‘Airing of the Quilts’

Honesdale — Fifth annual show throughout Honesdale.

Sponsored by A Stitch in Time, www.astichintimepa.com

Delaware Valley Choral Society performs

Clean-up day

Milford — Mozart Requiem in concert at Drew United Methodist Church, 4pm. 570/267-8773.

Concert: The Speckers

Beach Lake — Jazz, appetizers & beverages at United Methodist Church, doors open 11:30am, bids close 1pm, adults $5, children $3. 570/729-7011.

Sat., May 19

Shohola — Dispose of your household furniture, electronics, appliances, tires, etc. at the Shohola Township Bldg., 8:30am-3pm, $15/car, $25/pickup. shoholatwp.org.

Narrowsburg — Featuring John & daughters Lila & Ida Mae playing roots of American music at Tusten Theatre, 8pm, $22. 845/252-7272.

Festival of the arts

Honesdale — Vendors, antique dealers, artists & artisans throughout Main St., Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 10am4pm. 570/253-5492.

Garden Club flower sale

Roscoe — Annuals, vegetables & perennials for sale at the fire dept., 10am-4pm. 607/498-4738.

Hike to Gobbler’s Knob

Wurtsboro — Enjoy views of Shawangunk Ridge property w/ Mike Medley. Meet at South Rd. fishing platform, 10am. RSVP: 845/754-0743.

34 • upper delaware magazine

Fair trade jazz café & silent auction

Garden Club flower sale

Roscoe — Annuals, vegetables & perennials for sale at the fire dept., 10am-4pm. 607/498-4738.

Tues., May 29

Sat., June 9

Learning May wildflowers

Meditation class

‘A Lotta Ricotta’

Greentown — Join a park naturalist on a wildflower hunt at Varden Conservation Area, Promised Land State Park, 6pm, free. Meet in Western Wayne Middle School parking lot.

RSVP: 570/676-0567.

Sat., May 26

Colonial market & fair

Narrowsburg — Fort Delaware, Sat. & Mon. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm.

Community yard sale - vendors wanted Damascus — Vendors wanted, $10 (both days). 570/224-4377 or 2246671.

Farmstock working farm tour

Callicoon — Tour Rosehaven Alpacas, 12:30 & 2pm, spinning demo, kids’ crafts & contest. Adults $6, ages 5-12 $3. sullivancountyfarmnetwork.org Callicoon — Tour Nature’s Reserve Alpacas, 1 & 2pm, spinning demo, yarn bangle bracelet making 12:45 & 2pm. Adults $6, ages 5-12 $3. sullivancountyfarmnetwork.org.

Garage sale

Hurleyville — Sullivan County Museum, 9am-4pm, rain or shine.

Vendors wanted: $15/table. 845/4348044.

Memorial weekend program

Equinunk — Theme: “To Civil War” portraying the history of this area’s involvement in the Civil War at Equinunk Historical Society. Honoring veterans ceremony followed by ice cream social. 570/224-6722.

‘Rumblestrips’

Highland Lake — Independent film showing at NACL Theatre, 7pm, free.

RSVP: 845/557-0694. Bring food/drink to share for informal potluck following.

Square dance

Honesdale — Music by Uphill String Band at Grace Episcopal Church, 7-10pm, $8/person, $15/family.

Refreshments avail. 570/253-2706.

‘The Laugh Tour’

Wurtsboro — See first blossoms of the season at the Basha Kill. Meet at Haven Rd., DEC parking lot, 10am.

RSVP: 845/436-6046.

Sunday for singles hike

Trail loop hike

Dingmans Ferry — Three-mile moderately difficult Tumbling Waters trail hike at PEEC, 1-4pm, free.

570/828-2310.

Traditional cooking classes

Callicoon — Five-part series on re-skilling of nourishing, traditional cooking methods at United Methodist Church hall, Sun., 12:30-3:30, $30/ session, $150/5 sessions.

Where & When at www.RiverReporter.com

Thurs., May 24

Lake Huntington — Featuring comedians from The Tonight Show, Letterman, Conan, Comedy Central & more at The Nutshell, mixer 7pm, show 8pm, $15 online, $20 door.

TheLaughTour.com.

Spring wildflowers

For more area events and happenings check out

Greentown — Explore Promised Land State Park w/ a 2-mi. hike, free. Meet at Burley Inlet boat launch, 10am.

RSVP: 570/676-0567.

Sun., May 27 Dance social

Hurleyville — Ballroom, Latin & swing dance social at Sullivan County Museum, lesson 12:45pm, social 1:304pm, $10 incl. lesson, social, snacks & beverage. 845/434-8044.

Milford — “Eight Steps to Happiness” to become a more loving & compassionate person w/ guided meditation, teaching & discussion w/ Buddhist teacher Larry Zampino at The Emerson House, Hotel Fauchere, 7-8:30pm, $10. 845/856-9000.

Thurs., May 31

Concert: String Trio of New York Port Jervis — Chamber jazz group of acoustic violin, guitar & bass at Port Jervis Free Library, 7pm. 845/8567313.

Sat., June 2

Concert: ‘Red Molly’

Callicoon Center — Make whole milk ricotta cheese & learn ways to serve it at Apple Pond Farm, 10:30am12:30pm, $40. RSVP: 845/482-4764.

Pond exploration

Dingmans Ferry — Collect fish, macroinvertebrates, amphibians & more for close-up study at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5.

570/828-2310.

Trout parade

Livingston Manor — Parade (1pm), floats, entertainers & more. Rain or shine. 845/436-4227.

Sun., June 10

Sunday for singles hike

Narrowsburg — Bluegrass-tinged folk w/ touch of jazzy western swing at Tusten Theatre, 8pm, $22. 845/2527576.

Dingmans Ferry — Moderately difficult 4.5-mile Ridgeline trail hike at PEEC, 1-4pm, free. 570/828-2310.

Frog frolic I

Garden day

Dingmans Ferry — Catch & release frogs at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5. 570/8282310.

Intro to fishing

Dingmans Ferry — Fishing basics & fish w/ provided equipment at PEEC, 10am-noon, $10. RSVP: 570/8282310.

Sat., June 16

Liberty — Plants, flowers, compost bins & rain barrels for sale at Cornell Cooperative Ext., 10am-2pm. Compost bins: $35 (advance-RSVP for a free kitchen scrap bucket), $55 day of; rain barrels: $75. 845/292-6180.

History of D&H Canal

Forestburgh — Firehouse pavilion, 11am-1pm. 845/888-4194 or 707-4811.

Wurtsboro — Join Gary Keeton on a walk through time at Basha Kill. Meet at DEC access road, Rt. 209, 10am.

845/386-4892.

Railroad route bus trip

Wild edibles walk

Plant exchange

Honesdale — Historian S. Robert Powell retraces the Delaware & Hudson Gravity Railroad route from Honesdale to Carbondale on 6/10.

Bus departs Route 7 Mall, 1pm; returns ~6pm, $20 members, $25 non-members. RSVP by 6/2: 570/2533240.

Sun., June 3 Frog frolic II

Dingmans Ferry — Catch & release frogs at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5.

570/828-2310.

‘Happy for Herps’

Wurtsboro — Join herpetologist Bill Cutler to search for amphibians & reptiles at the Basha Kill. Meet at Haven Rd., DEC parking lot, 10am.

RSVP: 845/807-0291.

Intro to birding

Dingmans Ferry — Short guided hike learning birding basics at PEEC, 9-11am, members free, non-members $5. 570/828-2310.

Fri., June 8

First Fridays contemporary author series

Narrowsburg — Tusten-Cochecton Library, open mic sign-up 7pm, open mic 7:30pm, visiting authors 8pm, free, public welcome. lmoran@rcls.org.

Dingmans Ferry — Hike focused on wild edibles at PEEC, 10am-noon, $10. RSVP: 570/828-2310.

Sun., June 17 Dance social

Hurleyville — Ballroom, Latin & swing dance social at Sullivan County Museum, lesson 12:45pm, social 1:304pm, $10 incl. lesson, social, snacks & beverage. 845/434-8044.

Fri., June 22 Dusk hike

Greentown — Join a park naturalist for a night walk at Tannery Access, Promised Land State Park, 8:30pm, free. RSVP: 570/676-0567.

Sat., June 23 Butterfly walk

Dingmans Ferry — Learn about butterflies while exploring the fields at PEEC, 10am-noon, $5. 570/828-2310.

Car show

Equinunk — More than 100 show cars on display, 50/50, door prizes, craft & flea market vendors, book sale, bake sale & more on Pine Mill Rd., 10am3pm. 570/224-6722.

Sat., June 23 Concert: Burden on Society

Lake Ariel — Music-in-the-Forest series at Lacawac Sanctuary (Carriage House), 3pm. RSVP: 570/689-9494.

Park history tour

Dingmans Ferry — Explore scenic & historic sites at PEEC, 9am-3pm, members $10, non-members $20.

Bring water, lunch & camera. RSVP: 570/828-2310.

Summer canoe paddle

Dingmans Ferry — Relaxing afternoon on Pickerel Pond at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5.

RSVP: 570/828-2310.

‘The Laugh Tour’

Lake Huntington — Featuring comedians from The Tonight Show, Letterman, Conan, Comedy Central & more at The Nutshell, mixer 7pm, show 8pm, $15 online, $20 door.

TheLaughTour.com.

Sun., June 24

Bethel School open house

Honesdale — 1-4pm, special presentation 2pm. 570/253-5468.

Blooms & butterflies

Wurtsboro — See waves of wildflowers & butterflies at the Basha Kill. Meet at Haven Rd., DEC parking lot, 10am.

RSVP: 845/436-6046.

Traditional cooking classes

Callicoon — Five-part series on re-skilling of nourishing, traditional cooking methods at United Methodist Church hall, Sun., 12:30-3:30, $30/ session, $150/5 sessions.

Tues., July 3

Independence Day celebration

Honesdale — Children’s games, food, entertainment & fireworks in Central Park, 3:30pm-?, free. Rain date: 7/6.

570/253-4229.

Moonlight canoe/kayak adventure

Wurtsboro — Experience the Basha Kill from the water (bring your own vessel). Meet at South Rd. boat launch, 8:30pm. RSVP: 845/754-0743.

Wed., July 4

Fri., July 6

First Fridays contemporary author series

Narrowsburg — Tusten-Cochecton Library, open mic sign-up 7pm, open mic 7:30pm, visiting authors 8pm, free, public welcome. lmoran@rcls.org.

Sat., July 7

Dragonfly walk

Dingmans Ferry — Learn about dragonflies at the ponds at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5. 570/828-2310.

Intro to macro photography

Dingmans Ferry — Beginner level class teaching basics of close-up photography at PEEC, 9am-4pm, $65 (lunch add’l $8.50). 570/828-2310.

Sun., July 8

Sunday for singles hike

Dingmans Ferry — Meet new people while hiking at PEEC, 1-3pm, free.

570/828-2310.

Fri., July 13 Antique show

Honesdale — 50th annual show sponsored by Women’s Club of Honesdale at Wayne Highlands Middle School, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-4pm. 570/253-2492.

Frog frenzy I

Dingmans Ferry — Catch & release frogs at PEEC, 10am-noon, $5.

570/828-2310.

Moonlit drumming

Dingmans Ferry — Introductory drumming lesson w/ Maxwell Kofi Donkor at PEEC, 7-9pm, adults $20, children $15. RSVP: 570/828-2310.

Natural history walk

Wurtsboro — Hike 2-3 miles on level terrain w/ naturalist Jack Austin at the Basha Kill. Meet at Haven Rd., parking lot closest to South Rd., 8am.

845/856-0706.

Summer nature series for children

Hawley — Children ages 4-10 collect stamps for each program attended at PPL Wallenpaupack Environmental Learning Center, Sat. & Wed., free.

Last day: pizza, entertainment & prizes. RSVP: 570/253-7001.

‘The Laugh Tour’

Lake Huntington — Featuring comedians from The Tonight Show, Letterman, Conan, Comedy Central & more at The Nutshell, mixer 7pm, show 8pm, $15 online, $20 door.

TheLaughTour.com.

Sat., July 14 Barn Fest

Callicoon Center—Debra Winger to host. 3-7 pm. Food, beer, art auction, penny social, live performances. Hills Country Club. Admission is free. Rain or shine.

Sun., July 15

‘A Lotta Ricotta’

Callicoon Center — Make whole milk ricotta cheese & learn ways to serve it at Apple Pond Farm, 10:30am12:30pm, $40. RSVP: 845/482-4764.

Frog frenzy II

Dingmans Ferry — Catch & release frogs at PEEC, 10am-noon, $5.

570/828-2310.

Pancake & French toast breakfast

Claryville — All-you-can-eat at the firehouse, 7am-noon, adults $7, ages 5-11 $3, under 5 free. Take-out avail.

845/985-7270.

Summer canoe paddle

Dingmans Ferry — Learn everything about canoeing on Pickerel Pond at PEEC, 1-3pm, $5. 570/828-2310.

Fri., July 20 Pooch patrol

Greentown — Hike w/ your dog & a park naturalist on trails from Varden’s mid-valley access, Promised Land State Park, 6pm, free. RSVP: 570/6760567.

Sat., July 21 Concert: Christine Ebersole

Highmount — Tony award-winner at Belleayre Mountain Ski Center, 8pm, $25-$66. belleayremusic.org or 800/942-6904, ext. 1344.

Moonlight canoe trip

Glen Spey — Join the Delaware Highlands Conservancy on the Rio Reservoir w/ canoe/kayak & PFD, 7-9pm. RSVP: 570/226-3164 or 845/583-1010.

Nature at night

Sat., Aug. 4

‘The Maids’

Highmount — Jazz music at Belleayre Mountain Ski Center, 8pm, $26. belleayremusic.org or 800/942-6904, ext. 1344.

Dingmans Ferry — Walk in the woods listening for frogs, look at stars & more at PEEC, 8-10pm, free. 570/828-2310.

Highland Lake — Dark 1947 play written by Jean Genet at NACL Theatre, 7pm, sliding scale $12-25, children $5, family $20. RSVP: 845/557-0694.

Wild edibles

Dingmans Ferry — Hike focused on wild edibles at PEEC, 10am-noon, $10. RSVP: 570/828-2310.

Sun., July 22

Bethel School open house

Honesdale — 1-4pm, special presentation 2pm. 570/253-5468.

Intro to orienteering

Dingmans Ferry — Learn to use a map & compass at PEEC, 10am-noon, $5.

570/828-2310.

Traditional cooking classes

Callicoon — Five-part series on re-skilling of nourishing, traditional cooking methods at United Methodist Church hall, Sun., 12:30-3:30, $30/ session, $150/5 sessions.

Sat., July 28

Concert: Kevin Higgins

Lake Ariel — Music-in-the-Forest series at Lacawac Sanctuary (Carriage House), 3pm. RSVP: 570/689-9494.

Opera: ‘LaBoheme’

Highmount — Puccini masterpiece at Belleayre Mountain Ski Center, 8pm, $25-$66. belleayremusic.org or 800/942-6904, ext. 1344.

‘The Little Farm Show’

Barryville — All-ages musical about farming & food justice by NACL Theatre at the farmers’ market, noon, free.

Sun., July 29

‘The Little Farm Show’

Callicoon — All-ages musical about farming & food justice by NACL Theatre at the farmers’ market, noon, free.

Fri., Aug. 3

Concert: Ed Palermo’s Frank Zappa Little Big Band

Highmount — Tribute jazz band at Belleayre Mountain Ski Center, 8pm, $26. belleayremusic.org or 800/9426904, ext. 1344.

First Fridays contemporary author series

Narrowsburg — Tusten-Cochecton Library, open mic sign-up 7pm, open mic 7:30pm, visiting authors 8pm, free, public welcome. lmoran@rcls.org.

Concert: Jason Marsalis & Dianne Schuur

History of D&H Canal

Wurtsboro — Hike through the Basha Kill w/ Gary Keeton. Meet at DEC access rd., 10am. 845/386-4892.

Sun., Aug. 5

‘A Lotta Ricotta’

Callicoon Center — Make whole milk ricotta cheese & learn ways to serve it at Apple Pond Farm, 10:30am12:30pm, $40. RSVP: 845/482-4764.

Farming with kids

Callicoon Center — Farm chores for kids including milking goats, feeding chickens, gathering eggs, grooming horses & more at Apple Pond Farm & Renewable Energy Education Center, Sat. May, June & Sept.; Sat. & Sun. July & Aug., adults $5, over age 3 $4.

845/482-4764.

Garden Club meeting

Milford — Topics include herbal cooking, gardening photography, flower arranging, hands-on workshops, and field trips at Presbyterian Church, 2nd Tues./mo., 1pm. 570/296-1157.

Master gardener answers questions

Milford — Lawn or bug questions answered at Penn State Ext. office, Tues. and Fri. 10am-noon, free.

570/296-3400.

Musicians gathering

Bethel — Dancing Cat Saloon, Thurs., 7pm. 845/583-3141.

Breakfast

Nature watch

Ongoing

Nature arts & crafts

Honesdale — All-you-can-eat at VFW Post 531, 7am-noon, adults $8, seniors $7, ages 6-12 $5, 5 & under free. 570/253-5373.

Antique fair & flea market

Middletown — Orange County Fairgrounds, Sat. & Sun., 8am-5pm, free admission. ocfleamarkets.com or 845/282-4055.

Ballroom/Latin dance meet-up

Hurleyville — Begin or improve your ballroom & Latin dance skills at Sullivan County Museum, Tues. 10amnoon, $5. 845/434-8044 or 794-4641.

Bingo

Honesdale — $1100 progressive jackpot, California tic-tac, Bonanza game, tear-offs & fish bowl at Texas #4 Fire Co., Tues., doors open 5:30pm, games 6:30pm. Refreshments.

570/253-0782.

Children’s reading program with Tess & Twiggy Hawley — Licensed therapy dogs listen to children read at the Hawley Public Library. Twiggy (Yorkshire terrier) = Thurs., 3-5pm; Tess (yellow Lab) = Wed., 3-5pm. 570/226-4620.

Delaware Highlands Mushroom Society meeting

Honesdale — Bring photos, questions, stories & guests to Honesdale Wellness Center, 3rd Wed./mo., 7pm. dhms.weebly.com.

Clothing drive

Region — Clean out your house & help the Sullivan West PTSO raise money.

Accepting all material objects in any shape (must be in tied garbage bags).

Drop off: Callicoon, 4/19 & 5/10, 6-8pm in Landers parking lot; Narrowsburg, 4/26 & 5/17, 6-8pm in Peck’s parking lot; Jeffersonville, 5/3 & 5/24, 6-8pmn in Peck’s parking lot. 845/252-3340.

Concerts in the park

Honesdale — Central Park, 7:30pm, free. Mon. and Thurs. Rain location: Grace Episcopal Parish House.

570/253-4229.

Wurtsboro — Join volunteers at South Rd. boat launch to learn about residents of the Basha Kill wetlands, weekends through 7/1, 10am-4pm.

845/888-0261.

Greentown — Craft, paint, recycle, learn, explore & have fun at Promised Land State Park, Falls Pavilion, Wed. 10am-noon, rain or shine, donations appreciated. 570/676-0567.

Old Stone Jail open house

Honesdale — First Sat./mo., 10am1pm. 570/253-5468.

Permaculture design course

Callicoon Center — Focus: conscious design & maintenance of agriculture productivity in the NE US at Hills Inn & Conference Center, Sat. 8am-Sun. 4pm, $875 NOFA-NY members; $975 non-members incl. meals, snacks, beverages. 8/4 & 5: intro to permaculture design concepts; 9/8 & 9: patterns of understanding, harmonics, boundaries & access; 10/6 & 7: catch & store; 10/27 & 28: harvesting from nature; 11/10 & 11: strategies & plans.

Info: 845/482-4164. RSVP: catskilldela warepermaculture.=org/?page_id=133

‘Plain Speaking’ local history talks

Honesdale —Wayne County Historical Society, Fri. 5-6pm, free. Q&A follows.

RSVP: 570/253-3240.

Solar Sundays

Callicoon Center — Introduction to energy efficiency & renewable energy, inspection of several on-site systems at Apple Pond Farm & Renewable Energy Education Center, noon-2pm, $20. 845/482-4764.

Zen service

Honesdale — Weekly zazen practice & service at The Zen Center, Sun. Doors open 9:15, 1st sitting 9:25am, followed by Kinhin, 2nd sitting, service & Dharma talk & discussion. Zen meditation instructions, 9am, free, RSVP: choshi108@aol.com.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 35

FREE

Easy Access, Plentiful Fish

Fishing the Delaware’s tributaries Ray Turner’s

Delaware Delicacies

Smoke House

‘Crown Jewel’

of the Delaware

Rainbow Trout

and MORE! A RIVER REPORTER LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

T

Photo by Susan Ferguson

Steven Schwartz lives on the Delaware in Equinunk, and owns Delaware Valley Ramps, providing wild forest foraged foods to restaurants and wholesalers.

he fishermen you see standing in the river, and the fish you might occasionally see at the end of their lines, are but a small part of the picture. The geographically vast Upper Delaware River watershed—its flora, fauna, geology, history and economy—is extraordinarily rich and complex.

Trout thrive in cold, clean water as do the mayflies and other insects constituting their primary food source. The raptors we celebrate, waterfowl and some river-dwelling mammals dine on the fish. Many sea-dwellers rely on the 330 miles of unimpeded river for their annual spawning migration.

People earn a living working as guides on the river or catering to the visiting angler.

And the people they guide enjoy not only the thrill of the catch but also the knowledge they gain of the complex environment around them and the peaceful relaxation of an escape from their often more stressful daily lives.

In this premiere edition of FISH, we touch on some of these facets. The river is always alive, even in the throes of winter, with many other species of fish, in addition to trout, of interest to fishermen. Ray Turner, who utilizes an ancient fishing method, an eel weir, and food preservation technique, smoking the eel, is profiled. Thousands of square miles of watershed contain many small, rarely fished but productive creeks. Human intervention has both enhanced the trout habitat through cold water bottom releases from the reservoirs, and degraded it through activities like the introduction of invasive species. Trout have had a long and storied role in the Delaware, including the relatively recent immigrant, the rainbow trout.

Join us in celebrating FISH and the world they live in.

Steven Schwartz Contributing Editor

Cover photo: © Richard Franklin

FISH

A RIVER REPORTER LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

PUBLICATION DATE: APRIL 19

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2 FISH • 2012

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607-637-2992 jimserio@hancock.net A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 3

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4 FISH • 2012

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‘Crown Jewel’ of the Delaware

Rainbow trout R

ainbow trout are sometimes regarded as the aquatic Johnny-come-latelies of the fish-rich Upper Delaware River. But they’ve got a century’s worth of residency there.

It may be a fish story, but by one oftenrepeated account, the rainbows descended from fish that were released as a result of a railroad train breakdown in the late 1800s. Canisters of fingerling trout—McCloud River rainbows from California, they say—were aboard a train that chugged to an unexpected stop near Callicoon, NY. Dan Cahill, a brakeman, happened to be an avid fisherman. Fearing the fish would go belly-up before reaching their destination, Cahill grabbed a few canisters and released the fingerlings into the Delaware. This happenstance stocking is believed to be the first introduction of the rainbow into the Delaware River.

The official version of the rainbow’s introduction to the river is not quite as romantic. Ed Van Put, a NYS Department of Environmental Conservation staffer, says the state’s Fish Commission was experimenting with stocking rainbows roughly 140 years ago.

Those trout came from the San Francisco Bay area and were called mountain or California trout. Records show that on March 31, 1875, a man named Seth Green received at the NYS Fish Hatchery at Caledonia 1,800 mountain trout eggs, sent by the Acclimation Society of the Golden State. Of these, approximately 300 fry were hatched.

Three years later, when the fish reached spawning age, Green collected some 40,000 eggs and later released nearly 25,000 fry in the Delaware system. The trout adapted well to their

TEXT: Lee Hartman

new eco-system, and the river’s many cold -water tributaries became their spawning grounds and hidden nurseries.

Rainbows of the McCloud strain arrived in 1878 at the Caledonia hatchery. Over time, these two strains became one in Green’s records. He called them all California mountain trout. As a West Coast species, the first rainbows had the instincts of steelhead ancestry. The July 4, 1885 issue of American Angler wrote the following: “I am told that there was a batch put into the Beaverkill, one of the branches of the Delaware River, and that there have never been any caught near the locality where they were put in, but about 75 or 80 miles below, where they found very deep water and large eddies, that they were quite plentiful.”

Early 20th-century anglers were impressed with this new strain of California trout that, not surprisingly, fought harder than anything they have ever seen. Generations of natural selection and local environmental factors have hardened these fish into a distinct breed of trout, making them into one of the best wild stock of streamlined rainbows in our country. It is now considered by anglers as the “crown jewel” of the Delaware.

Among the Delaware tributaries where they now spawn are Sands and Cadosia creeks in the town of Hancock, NY. The two creeks do not have the regal reputation of famous trout runs in the region, but they are—to this day—a vital part of the aquatic system with the clean flowing cold water and proper cover for survival. The juvenile fish will live in the nursing waters for two years before entering the river to become the spirited, fierce-fighting trout that the Delaware is known

for.

A transmitter study conducted by Trout Unlimited in the late 1990s revealed the movements of the adult rainbow trout. The “wild” Delaware fish normally resides in the Delaware and returns to the place of birth each spring, spawning twice in its four and sometimes five-year life span. A few of the cold-water critters were tracked at distances of 60 miles within a one-year period in their struggles to reproduce and find suitable spawning grounds.

In 2006, a 500-year flood devastated Sands and Cadosia creeks, sweeping away precious troutholding pools, eroding banks and eliminating structure. Some of the remedial channelization intended to prevent future flooding also strips trout cover and increases stream bank erosion.

During the past two years, Friends of the Upper Delaware River (FUDR), based in New York and Pennsylvania, embarked on an ambitious project to restore the creeks. FUDR has partnered with the National Fish & Wildlife Service, the Town of Hancock and the Delaware County Department of Public Works, to restore Sands and Cadosia creeks for the purpose of mitigating flooding and restore fish spawning habitat.

Landowner participation is vital and to date we have a group of very engaged property owners that have partnered with FUDR. The initial $100,000 stream assessment study done by Landstudies, Inc. has been completed. A conceptual plan for their restoration is currently being finalized on Sands Creek and groundbreaking work is the next step.

For further information on the stream restoration project, visit www.fudr.org.

Lee Hartman is Vice Chairman of Friends of the Upper Delaware River (FUD) and Delaware River Committee Chairman for PA Council, Trout Unlimited. He currently manages Indian Springs Fly Fishing (www.indianspringsflyfishing.com) and is President of World Angling Travels.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 5

Easy Access, Plentiful Fish Fishing the Delaware’s tributaries

An avid angler fishes the Neversink Unique Area.

Y

ou will find large trout rising on the Delaware and its East and West branches, but they’re fickle. Add to that the difficulty of access (unless you have a drift boat, pontoon boat or kayak, and can arrange a shuttle), and trying to catch a Delaware River trout can be, well, trying, even for accomplished anglers.

Think patience, perfect presentation and having the right fly. One more thing: whether you can cast 30 or 80 feet, the fish are usually two feet beyond your best cast.

The Delaware’s three major tributaries, the Beaverkill, Willowemoc and Neversink, are 6 FISH • 2012

much more angler-friendly, and while they may not have as many large trout as the big river, they’ve got plenty, and a few big ones.

The Beaverkill

You won’t find much public water above the town of Roscoe, NY (a/k/a Trout Town USA), so look for it from Roscoe down to the Beaverkill’s junction with the East Branch of the Delaware.

Since the Beaverkill has such a rich fly-fishing history, and is so easily accessible, you’ll find that most of the pools are named, and that if you fish on a weekend or on a pleasant weekday,

you’ll have plenty of company. Drive along Old Rte. 17, and you’ll find some place to slip into the river. Unless you’re an early riser, or the weather is inclement, avoid the most famous pools like Junction, Cairns and Cemetery.

You’ll want to avoid the lower end of the Beaverkill in hot weather (the trout migrate to colder water), and don’t fish when the water temperature is above 70 degrees. There may be closures around the cold-water refuges at creek mouths during July and August.

You’ll find just about every important eastern trout stream insect in the Beaverkill, and it’s

said that if there’s a trout rising anywhere in the Catskills, it will be rising on the Beaverkill.

Fish in the pools can be tough; maximize your chances—and minimize the company—by fishing the pocket water and riffles. You can improve your luck by fishing a nymph under your dry fly; swinging a soft-hackle fly through the riffles is always a good idea, whether you see fish rising or not. My go-to soft-hackle is a Partridge and Orange, size 14.

If you’re a confident wader, and know the water, fishing the Beaverkill at night can pay big dividends. I’d do it with a friend (and a headlamp), using big wet flies that move a lot of water, or streamers. Don’t try to cast far; just cover the water methodically. Nice surprises await.

The Beaverkill has two no-kill areas where all fish must be returned. If you want a fish for dinner, make sure it doesn’t come from one of these sections, and please make it a hatchery fish, not a wild one. You’ll catch browns and rainbows, mostly stocked, but there are some wild fish, and sizeable hold-overs.

fishing clubs. Generally, the Willow will not be as crowded as the Beaverkill. Although the Willow flows into the Beaverkill, you’ll often find that when the Beaverkill is high, muddy and unfishable, the Willow is clear. You can call any of the local fly shops (or go to their web sites) to learn current information on river conditions.

Old Rte. 17 also follows part of the Willow, although not so closely as it follows the Beaverkill, so you may have to get out and walk a bit farther to find your fishing. Generally speaking, the farther you go, the better the fishing will get. The Willow also has a no-kill section, and the same advice applies as to the Beaverkill. Don’t be fooled into thinking that all the good fish are in the no-kill areas.

The Willow has the same hatches as the Beaverkill, but it’s a little more intimate, and you may want to use a lighter rod. If you want easy access, try behind the rest stop on eastbound Rte. 17 between Roscoe and Livingston Manor, at Hazel Bridge, or in front of the Catskill Fly Fishing Museum. For more solitude, poke around away from the road.

points. This area is too warm to fish in the heat of summer (besides, it’s a long and sweaty hike in and out), and the wading is very treacherous, but you might see a bear, an eagle, or a rattlesnake. The hatches are very different from those on the Beaverkill and Willowemoc (mainly stoneflies and caddis, but also large populations of dragonflies and damselflies). The trout down here are wild (browns and brookies), and the fishing is tough but satisfying. If you want to fish this water, find someone who knows it. Bring lunch and a bottle of water, and wade with cleats and a staff; this is an arduous all-day adventure.

The Neversink

Partridge-and-Orange soft hackle

The Willowemoc

Willowemoc Creek flows into the Beaverkill at Roscoe’s famous Junction Pool, home of the mythical two-headed trout. It’s a bit smaller than the Beaverkill. From Roscoe to Livingston Manor, access is not a problem; above Livingston Manor you’ll find more posting and private

TEXT and PHOTOS: Greg Belcamino

The character of this river is affected by the Neversink Reservoir. Above the reservoir the river is largely private. Immediately below the dam, the water is very cold, and not very fertile.

Downstream, fishing improves, as does access.

The highest numbers of fish are in the area midway between Rock Hill, NY and Fallsburg, NY. The river here is easily waded in most spots, and because of the cold-water release from the dam, the fishing holds up well during the summer. Hatches of little green and yellow stoneflies provide nice dry-fly fishing here in early summer.

The river warms as it flows south toward Rte. 17, and temperatures can be a problem in summer. South of Rte. 17, the Neversink drops into a gorge, most of which comprises the state-owned Neversink River Unique Area. The Department of Environmental Conservation offers a map of the Unique Area and its access

Little Yellow Stonefly

Tributaries of the tributaries

I’m not going to give away my secret spots, but there’s some wonderful fishing to be found in the smaller streams of the watershed. Find them for yourself by using USGS topo maps and Google Earth. Ask in local fly shops (you always get better information when you buy a handful of flies), and the next time a Conservation Officer asks to see your fishing license, view it as a learning opportunity and not a nuisance; he or she knows more about local small streams than you do. And if you ever meet a state fisheries biologist, you’ve hit the jackpot.

Tight lines, and happy prospecting!

Greg Belcamino is an avid fly fisherman and fly tier who has fished primarily in the Catskills for the last twenty years. He is also President of the Delaware Highlands Conservancy (www.delawarehighlands. org), a land trust active along the Upper Delaware River in both New York and Pennsylvania.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 7

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R

ay Turner makes his living from the river of these catadromous fish begins a week or so thing to do are on hand to help Turner harvest and it takes a lot of work. In fact, if you either side of September 29 each year. A new his business inventory. want to talk with Turner, you talk with him moon and high muddy water gets things moving. while he is working.

The main part of the run lasts just a few nights, Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em Turner’s hand-built smoker and smoke house “I’ve already done the preliminary evisceration. during which Turner can trap hundreds or even are next to his hand-built home, deli store and This is the second step, when I get the guts out,” thousands of eels. storage buildings, which are all in a place called said the 64-year-old Turner, peering out from Turner freezes much of his autumn catch. He Eel Weir Hollow, according to maps dated to the his thick gray-black beard and his full 1800s. Turner has built his business over length, brown leather work apron. “You the decades on the eel population and eel need to get your fingers underneath heritage of this place. He also smokes and the liver near the head, start from the sells salmon, trout, pheasant, shrimp, top and pull the guts out in one piece. I duckling, cornish hens and cheese. Lots designed this tool—a tablespoon with a of cheese. More than seven tons of cheese sharpened edge and two notches cut in since 2007. that fit around the spine—to scrape the Turner hot smokes the eels and most body cavity clean.” of his products. Hot smoking brings the The guts Turner is removing belong meat’s temperature to 145 degrees for to a sliced open, 27-inch long, 20-plusthe fish, 165 degrees for the fowl. Turner year-old Anguilla rostrata. It’s the snakecold smokes salmon and cheese. In cold like American eel native to local rivers smoking, product temperature cannot and now on its way to becoming one of exceed 90 degrees; cheese must be held Turner’s signature products—smoked to 70 degrees so it doesn’t melt. A civil eel—that he sells locally from his deep engineer by training, Turner rigged his woods deli shop and by mail across the smoke house to cold smoke products even United States. on the hottest summer day.

Turner owns and is the only employee His smoke draws from five different of Delaware Delicacies Smoke House, kinds of sawdust—cross cut dry, cross cut located in a pine forest at the end of a green, joint cut dry, joint cut green and dirt road along the East Branch of the dry stump. He loves sawdust made from Delaware River outside of Hancock, apple wood and, in fact, uses nothing NY. The smoked eel business is yearelse. He will trade you a shopping bag round work. full of his products for a pick-up’s load of The blue plastic tub filled with Delaware Delicacies Smoke House apple wood. thawing eels that he’s gutting on this Turner works hard to make his living warm March afternoon were caught from the river. His customers appreciate cleans and smokes them in the winter and spring in Turner’s mid-river, stone eel weir the previous his hard work. “I do quite well,” said Turner, “but September during the eels’ annual autumn to keep a supply of smoked eel on hand for sale. it’s not easy work. Building weirs, I can haul a “I spend the summer preparing for the run,” he migration. For the eels that Turner traps, the migration begins in the pools and riffles above said. Turner described a process of stacking rocks couple of tons of stone a day.

“I have no computer, no fax, no microwave, to build a V-shaped weir across the width of the his property and ends, for those not caught by no cell phone, no BlackBerry. I have tranquility, East Branch, and constructing a five-foot-wide by Turner or others along the way, in the Sargasso eagles, the river. I have my Chevy, a canoe and 50-foot-long wooden fish trap at the downstream Sea, in the south central Atlantic Ocean, where a sign.” point of the “V”, where the fish are caught in Anguilla mates and spawns and dies and starts “It’s a job that’s never done,” said Turner. “I love slated boxes and hauled in. Neighbors, friends the lifecycle anew. the job. It’s a journey.”

According to Turner, the migration or run and guys who think trapping eels is a pretty cool

A Living from the River

Ray Turner’s

R a y Tu r n e r | D e l a w a r e D e l i c a c i e s S m o k e H o u s e | 4 2 0 R h o d e s R o a d | H a n c o c k , N Y 13 7 8 3 | 6 0 7/ 6 3 7- 4 4 4 3

TEXT and PHOTO: Tom Walek

Tom Walek is the founder of Walek & Associates, a financial and corporate public relations firm. An avid fly fisherman and Equinunk homeowner, Tom’s writings have appeared in Fly Fisherman magazine, Trout magazine and The Angling Report.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 9

A Year-Round Fishery Bass, shad, walleye, stripers, perch, eels T

he Delaware boasts a variety of habitats that help nurture one of the most diverse year-round fisheries in the country. Many do not realize that the border waters of Pennslyvania and New York remain open for catch and release fishing year-round.

The upper reaches are known for some of the best trout fishing in the East—large, wild brown and rainbow trout are as abundant in the cold waters as are the aquatic insects on which they feed, luring fly fishermen from across the country. They wade or float the river in droves, especially in the spring when the famous “Hendrickson” mayflies are hatching, bringing even the biggest of trout to the surface to feed.

While spring is the best known trout season, the cold waters coming from the reservoirs keep the river water temperatures cold throughout the summer months, yielding one of the few trout streams in the East fishable even on the hottest of days. At times on the West Branch during the Sulphur hatch at Stilesville, you will see fly fishermen in 90-degree weather enter the fog-shrouded 40-degree river merely to jump back out after half an hour, mind-numbingly cold.

Downriver as the water warms, fishermen seek out smallmouth bass water. “Smallies” were the predominant fish in the river prior to the creation of the Cannonsville and Pepacton reservoirs. While the river may not boast some of the larger examples of the species (fiveplus pounds), it makes up for this in the sheer population of bronzebacks down to Delaware Bay. Smallmouth are found in abundance in shallow rocky areas adjacent to deeper pools.

Tenacious fighters and tasty on the plate, fishermen up and down the river target these aggressive predators both with flies and conventional fishing gear. Omnivorous,

TEXT and PHOTO: Bart Larmouth

10 FISH • 2012

Megan Dean holds her fish caught on the fly, a Delaware River smallmouth bass.

they love crawfish, hellgrammites, baitfish— virtually anything that moves, making them one of the more cooperative fish when it comes to taking a lure or fly.

Anadromous fish (born in freshwater, migrating to the sea and returning to their birthplace to spawn) such as shad have been staples of human consumption for ages. Every spring, these fish migrate from the ocean far up the Delaware to procreate, giving fishermen along the way ample opportunity to catch these feisty forktails. Shad start their migration in Delaware Bay typically in late March, moving hundreds of miles upstream as far as river flow will allow. Shad roe is considered a delicacy by many, and there are “Shad Bakes” along the lower sections of the river, some with over a century of history behind them.

Walleye are a highly sought-after species in the Delaware, boasting some of the best tasting, sweetest meat of any fish. They dwell in slow, deep pools and in the eddies behind submerged boulders, feeding primarily on baitfish and aquatic insects. This makes them perfect quarry for those who love to bait a hook and sit

Tro

quietly on shore or in a boat. Since they are a schooling fish, one good “honey hole” can yield a great night’s fish fry. The other attraction for walleye fishing is that while there may be an established “keep” season, it is a year-round fishery, with the fish being active even in the winter months.

Famed for both their flesh and fight, striped bass are best known as an ocean fish, sought and caught off the shores and bays of the Atlantic. What is not common knowledge is that they are able to survive in conditions of fresh, salt and brackish water, and will readily follow bait and other food sources (like our above mentioned shad) well up into the fresh waters of the Delaware.

While they typically are landed by anglers on the lowest stretches of the river, closest to the Delaware Bay, stripers have been caught as far north as Hancock, NY, where they find the local rainbow trout an excellent delicacy. Collecting in the larger pools and moving in schools, they quickly become the apex predator in any section of river they find themselves patrolling.

There are plenty of others species found in the river, each with its own allure. Bluegill, yellow perch, crappie and other panfish are popular with the novice angler, as they are usually the first thing to grab our worm-wrapped hook as a youngster, and are prevalent up and down the river. Muskellunge, a.k.a. muskies, lurk in the slower back eddies and side channels, waiting for unsuspecting quarry to swim by. Large, ferocious and toothy, this “fish of a thousand casts” is notoriously hard to catch, and this challenge appeals to many experienced anglers.

No matter what stretch anglers find themselves on, the entirety of the Delaware River is an amazing year-round fishery, and they will without doubt find a place to wet a line, as well as a species to target while there.

Bart Larmouth is the manager of the Delaware River Club (www.thedelawareriverclub.com), a fly fishing resort and guide service open to the public, where he once served as head instructor, resort assistant manager, and guide. A Colgate University alumnus, Bart began his fishing career on the Delaware River, which he considers his home waters.

Loss of a Riverbank Knotweed and other invasives T

he globalization of our planet has enabled the trade of goods and services between nearly all countries around the world. With the addition of worldwide trade, there have been an ever increasing number of non-native plants and animals tagging along for the ride, or even deliberately introduced into our environment.

The Upper Delaware River, regrettably, has been the recipient of several of these invaders.

If you live or spend much time on the Upper Delaware River, you may have noticed that some sections of riverbank are now completely dominated by a tall bamboo-type plant. This plant is known as Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica). A native of Eastern Asia, Japanese knotweed was introduced in England in the 1800s and then brought to North America during the 1876 Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia. The pretty plumes of white flowers and fast growing nature of this plant provided height and interesting screens in the backyard garden.

Knotweed stalks grow quickly in the spring to a height of about 10 feet. The wide leaves create a nearly complete canopy that shades the undergrowth. The effect on the riverbank is devastating. Native grasses have thousands of small roots that intertwine in the soil to create a stable riverbank that resists the erosive nature of the flowing river. Knotweed roots are large and create a lump or knot with exposed, unprotected soil all around. High spring flows wash all of that exposed topsoil down the river.

How much topsoil, you may ask? The average cubic foot of top soil weighs about

75 pounds. Assuming an average of six inches of top soil under the grasses of a healthy riverbank and a patch of knotweed that is 100 yards long by 12 feet wide, if the topsoil under that knotweed washes away, that is 135,000 pounds—or seven tons. A patch a mile long and 12 feet wide would lose 1,200 tons.

What does it all mean to those critters that live along the river? Flowing water is always changing and re-shaping the river channel. A stream channel is trying to become deeper and narrower. This is great for fish and, in particular, trout in the Upper Delaware. Deep, cool water is preferred by trout. Knotweed alters the natural progression of these changes. The loss of massive amounts of topsoil destabilizes the riverbank and tends to lead to wider and shallower river channels. A wider and shallower river results on much warmer summer water temperatures.

Knotweed is very difficult to eradicate, but it can be controlled by various methods including a late spring frost; cutting and disposing so cuttings can’t sprout; creating a greenhouse effect with plastic; and chemical control. A new method of chemical control is a system that injects concentrated herbicide directly into stems. This is initially labor intensive, but is proving to be effective in eliminating a patch of knotweed. This has the added advantage of not harming other plants in the area.

The bottom line is that you must be persistent and will probably need to employ several different types of control over a few seasons to completely eliminate this invasive pest.

The broad, heart-shaped leaves and bamboo-like segmented stems are classic to knotweed.

Notice the thin strip of original riverbank that has survived.

Knotweed has allowed all of the topsoil to wash downriver, leaving only river cobble for over 100 feet back from the original riverbank.

Other Invasives Hogweed – A potentially dangerous invasive

plant that resembles a giant Queen Anne’s Lace, this plant has a corrosive sap that can damage skin and eye tissue.

Purple Loosestrife – This invasive plant from Europe and Asia can completely overwhelm a wetlands habitat in a very short time. A single plant can produce over 2,000,000 seeds!

Didymo –Origin unknown, this is a diatom (algae like) that lives on the bottom of a stream. Blooms of this invader can completely choke a flowing stream. Lack of light and oxygen can choke out native species and destroy aquatic habitat.

For more information visit: http://1.usa.gov/IgZZQR | http://1.usa.gov/HyXKGs

TEXT and PHOTOS: Jim Serio

Jim Serio is a real estate broker in Hancock, NY. Jim established the Delaware River Foundation in 1998 to protect and enhance the cold water environment in the Upper Delaware River including combating invasives such as knotweed.

A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 11

Cross Current Guide Service & Outtters FlyFishTheDelaware.com 607-241-7000

On the best wild trout fishery in the eastern US: “Joe D, 2010 Orvis Guide of the Year and “Coz” have put together the finest staff of professional fly fishing guides on the Upper Delaware, offering their guests and clients decades of experience, knowledge, hospitality and camaraderie.”

Paul Weamer, author, “Fly Fishing Guide to the Delaware River”

Border Water Outfitters BorderWaterOutfitters.com

The Double Haul Club DoubleHaulClub.com Welcome to the “Double Haul Club.”™ The club shares with its members many benefits within the Upper Delaware River region plus national and international fly fishing destinations.

Members receive private foot access to select properties and strategically located private boat launches on the Upper Delaware perfect for your canoe, kayak, pontoon or drift boat.

Select “Participating Merchants” offer Double Haul members discounts from products to services.

Our members aren’t just a group of fly fishers; they are friends and associates that are passionate about the river, fly fishing and all that they have to offer.

For membership information call us: 607-241-7000.

See you on the river!

12 FISH • 2012

Jim “Coz” Costolnick the original host of ESPN’s “In Search of Fly Water,” traveled the globe bringing the world of fly fishing into the living rooms of millions.

For the past 10 years Coz has owned and operated Border Water Outfitters in Hancock, NY. “BWO” has 2500 sq. ft. of fly fishing tackle including over 700 fly patters to choose from. For the angler and non angler “BWO” offers kayak, canoe and drift boat rentals to enjoy the Delaware River and nearby reservoirs.

Stop in or call us at 607-637-4296; Email bwo@hancock.net

WILDFLOWER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012 Concerts are held at the Wildflower Amphitheater, located on the grounds of the Dorflinger-Suydam Wildlife Sanctuary

LONG RIDGE ROAD, WHITE MILLS PA Rain Location: Wallenpaupack Area High School, Route 6, Hawley, PA saturday JULY 14 6:00 pm

saturday JULY 7 6:00 pm

BAY STREET BRASSWORKS

THE PHOENIX JAZZ PROJECT

Brought back by popular demand, this brass quintet charms you with their musical abilities and their charisma.

They play a wide variety of musical genres ranging from classical music to Dixieland, from show tunes to patriotic songs for the Fourth of July, from big band to everything in-between.

saturday JULY 21 6:00 pm

THE STEVE CHAPIN BAND

Come for an evening of easy listening to this creative jazz quintet composed of piano, vocalist, drums, and bass. They have wowed audiences in the US, Prague, Belgium, and Russia while on tour. Their performance of a wide variety of jazz styles and their smooth melodious sound is the perfect entertainment for an evening under the pines.

T 11* AUGUPSM 6

SPECIAL CONCERT

ERNIE HAWKINS

MARY WILSON

Harry Chapin’s brother Steve and original Chapin band members Big John Wallace and Howard Fields perform their stunning portrayals of Harry’s mostloved songs—“Taxi,” “Cat’s in the Cradle,” “Mr. Tanner,” “W.O.L.D.”—as well as Steve’s tunes. Steve and Big John’s sons, Jonathan and Clark, round out the band with their guitars for what will be a charming musical performance and a true Chapin Family event.

of The Supremes

saturday AUGUST 4 6:00 pm

Charge tickets by phone 570-253-5500 Order tickets by mail PO Box 356, White Mills, PA 18473

A phenomenal country blues and ragtime guitar player, Ernie has been featured on “A Prairie Home Companion,” played at the famous Antone’s in Austin, Texas, and at the Madrid Jazz Festival.

His well-known CD “Blues Advice” was written as a tribute to his former teacher, the late, great Rev. Gary Davis.

His newest album, “Rags and Bones,” has been said by reviewers to be his best yet.

saturday AUGUST 18 6:00 pm

ELYSIAN CAMERATA

SIERRA HULL & HIGHWAY 111 One of the most respected artists, this new bluegrass singer has already shot to the top with her latest album, “Daybreak,” listed #4 on the Top 100 Bluegrass Albums of 2011. In addition, she was asked to the White House as part of the PBS “In Performance at the White House” TV series. She received five International Bluegrass Music Association nominations in the past three years and is the first bluegrass musician to receive Berklee School of Music’s prestigious Presidential Scholarship.

saturday JULY 28 6:00 pm

Come relive the songs of the top female trio of the 60s.

Alongside Diana Ross and Florence Ballard, Mary Wilson founded The Supremes in 1959. They went on to have 12 Number One Billboard hits such as “Baby Love,” “Stop! In The Name of Love,” and “Where Did Our Love Go.” She is the only consistent member of The Supremes during its entire 18-year tenure. Ms. Wilson is also a best selling author of three books, a motivational speaker, and former US Cultural Ambassador appointed by Colin Powell.

The term elysian means “heavenly,” which aptly describes the flowing music from this acclaimed chamber music group. You’ll be mesmerized by these five extremely talented musicians (two violins, two violas, and cello) performing the works of Mozart, Mendelssohn, and others.

Members of this dynamic ensemble have performed with the Philadelphia Orchestra, The Pennsylvania Ballet Company, the Princeton Symphony Orchestra, and Opera New Jersey among others.

*Special ticket required.

sunday, JULY 29 4:00 pm

FREE CONCERT

with

HYUN JOO PARK

Wildflower Steppingstones Young Artist Wildflower presents the seventh annual Steppingstones Concert to honor the memory of former artistic director Jane Zwillinger Ables. The concert spotlights doctoral candidate at Pennsylvania State University Hyun Joo Park. This award-winning young pianist will impress with her mastery of the keyboard. The Dorflinger Glass Museum will be open before the concert free of charge. Come enjoy a FREE afternoon of all that the Dorflinger-Suydam Wildlife Sanctuary has to offer.

TICKET PRICES General Admission—$22 Students (6 to 18 years)—$11 Under 6 (except Special Concert)—Free Mary Wilson (no student tix)—$32 TICKETS ARE NOT REFUNDABLE.

Order online

www.wildflowermusic.org

General admission tickets can be purchased on the evening of the performance. Program subject to change without notice.