2009 - Israel by Tufts Traveler

table of contents Q&A

4-5

Lauren Lee

Israel Facts & Figures

8-9

Tufts Traveler Staff

Conversations

Tufts Traveler Staff

Sides of Israel

Rebecca Weinstein

Free Hubbly Bubbly

Patricia Letayf

Welcome To Eilat

Seth Rau

Birthright Through My Eyes

Rachael Brill

Around and About

Meredith Turits

Connection

Alex Fernbach

From Gauchos To Goblets

Swapna Maruri

18-19

Allistar Mallillin

Lessons Learned Guatamala: Coming Home [FOCUS]

20 21-23

Diego Veliz-Florez Ian Maclellan

letter from the editor Shalom! Tufts Traveler is finally in Israel! And with so many Tufts students going not only for Birthright, but also for fun, we have hopefully created an issue that is both informative and interesting. From small simple anecdotes to emotional Birthright experiences to our interview with Gordon Dale, the Program Associate for Tufts Hillel, we are proud to present this issue of the Tufts Traveler. While we are aware of the tense political and religious controversies that surround the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, we, at Tufts Traveler, are primarily focused on promoting not only safe traveling, but also cultural and social growth and understanding. With this in mind, we hope that the stories, pictures, and advice that you take from these pages will help you keep an open mind and make the most out of your travels. Have fun, be safe, and enjoy every moment. Samuel Lee

Photo by Rachael Brill

editor-in-chief • samuel lee • managing editors • ally gimbel • anna simon • laina rosebrock • business manager • nacy wang • boston editor • lauren lee • features editors • emily de armas • shaye martin • nancy wang • op/ed editors • rachael brill • shuran fan • nunu luo • swapna maruri • yushi wang • jiehua wu • photo editor • anna simon • layout editors • ally gimbel • tim li • swapna maruri • laina rosebrock • anna simon • contributing writers • rachael brill • alex fernbach • patricia letayf • lauren lee • yilun li • doris lo • ian maclellan • allistar mallillin • swapna maruri • seth rau • meredith turits • diego veliz-florez • contributing photographers • rachael brill • ally gimbel • patricia letayf • ian maclellan • emily parker • elizabeth schott • kara takasaki • julia tisdale • meredith turits • joanie wang • russell wang • rebecca weinstein • diego veliz-florez • ivy vo •

Photo by Ian Maclellan; cover by Rebecca Weinstein

QUEST ON

ANSWER

by Lauren Lee HEADPHONES

How do I travel in style and comfort? It would appear that the powers-that-be, in Zeus-like fashion, are unable to bear the sight of humans enjoying themselves on vacation without meddling for their own amusement. And thus, they force us into extensive hours of airplane travel, wreaking havoc on our spirits and laying waste to our visages. Luckily for us mere mortals, these five travel staples will help you arrive at your destination in style and with your wits mercifully intact.

SUNGLASSES God knows that after a red-eye flight, the last thing we need is glorious St. Tropez sunshine revealing our bleary-eyed and fuzzy selves. Fortunately, sunglasses in all shapes and sizes are here to save the day (and the last shreds of our vanity). On top of being super chic and hiding your identity, sunglasses protect the delicate skin around your eyes which are oftentimes the first to succumb to sun damage (wrinkles, sun spots, you name it). Sometimes we just have to take one for the team, but when the choices are so stylish, no one’s complaining. 3.1 Philip Lim Beatrice Sunglasses, $225, eluxury.com Ray-Bans Classic Wayfarer Sunglasses, $139, eluxury.com

Grey Classic Aviators, $30, debenhams.com

Oh, the joys of being held hostage in tiny spaces with petulant children and unruly adolescents! If only they would just fade away and…disappear? I’m no wish-granting genie, but these headphones come pretty close to eliminating the sensory existence of irritating seatmates and they’re good-lookin’ to boot. As you slip these beauties on, you’ll find your airplane troubles fading away in tune to your favorite song. After all, children ought to be seen and not heard (sometimes). Bose Noise Reduction Headphones, $299.99, amazon.com Nixon Nomadic Mic Headphones (in white), $120, nixonnow.com Skull Candy Noise Reduction Titan Earbuds, $9.99, skullcandy.com

SOCKS Oftentimes given a bad rep for being stinky and dirty, socks are the unsung heroes of aeroplane travel. No other garment has as many functions as the lowly sock: protecting your feet from the potentially germ-infested floors of the security checkpoint, keeping your extremities warm on chilly flights, wrapping your fragile items in your checked in luggage, among infinitely more. Instead of giving peas a chance, try giving socks a chance on your next flight; your feet will thank you. J. Crew Argyle Socks, $14.50,jcrew.com H&M Opaque tights, $6, H&M stores Full Tilt Zebra Sock, $1.97, tillys.com

PILLOW

LIPBALM

No matter which exotic (or mundane) locale Literally stuck between you’re jetting off to, chapped and scraggly a rock (a skinny armlips will never be attractive. The skin and rest) and a hard place (an flesh that the human lips are composed of oddly shaped cabin wall), lack their own oil-producing glands, and our heads are often in dire thus are incapable of replenishing moisneed of something soft and ture on their own. When subject to the plush. That something soft combined effects of being trapped in the and plush is none other than dehydrating conditions of a flight caba pillow, but not your squishy in and constant temperature changes, bed pillow. When choosing an your lips suffer immensely. So go ideal travel-pillow it’s best to opt ahead, pack that lip balm, and show for one with ample support and a your pucker some love. washable surface (crusty airplane drool residual = gross). They say Korres Lip Butter in Pomegranate, that friends are the family you $9, sephora.com choose in life, and if that translates Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip to my lack of choice in seatmates, Balm SPF 25, $7, sephora.com then my travel pillow may just be the Burt’s Bees Beeswax Lip Balm, best friend I have. $2.99, drugstore.com Dinosaur Shaped Pillow, $35, roseberryrooms.com Navy Satin Travel Pillow and Eyemask, $30, needlequeen.etsy.com U-Pillow, $25, brookstone.com

Submit all travel related questions to tufts.traveler. magazine@gmail.com Photos by: Ally Gimbel, Rebecca Weinstein, Russell Wang, Ivy Vo

If you will it, it is no dream. - theodore herzl

Photo by Patricia Letayf

israel FACTS & FIGURES Israeli bank notes have

The Dead Sea, in Israel, is the

lowest

braille

point on earth, at 1,315 feet below sea level.

so the blind can identify them

The

cell phone

was developed by Motorola-Israel

The glue on the back of Israeli stamps is 8

Photo Credits (clockwise from top): Elizabeth Schrott, Julia Tisdale, Ian Maclellan, Patricia Letayf, Rebecca Weinstein

kosher 9

Conversations with

Gordon Dale

Tufts Traveler Magazine sat down with Gordon Dale, the Program Associate at Tufts Hillel, to ask about the Tufts Birthright program, the application process, the structure of the system, and what the trip actually entails. Tufts Traveler: Can you give us a general overview of the Birthright trip? Gordon Dale: There are two trips. Both are ten-day trips to Israel. It’s completely free. And it is ten of the most intense days. You’re on the bus early in the morning, sight-seeing and going to both historical and religious sites. These are amazing locations all over the country. We’re basically packing the entire country into ten days. So it is a very intense trip. TT: Can you explain the overall structure of the birthright program, specifically the one of which Tufts is a part? GD: There is a Birthright central, whose headquarter is in Washington D.C., and under them are around 30 different trip providers. And each trip provider is a little different from the next. Some of them might be more politically focused; others are more religiously focused; even some are based on outdoor programs with hiking and camping trips. The trip provider that Tufts goes with is Shorashim, which is Hebrew for “roots.” We like them for a number of reasons. The primary reason is that they put ten Israeli peers on the trip for the entire ten days – no other trip provider does that. This really allows Tufts students to see Israel through the eyes of Israelis. We can, for example, hear firsthand what it is like to live in this country. Also these trips, because they’re done through Shorashim, have amazing educational and spiritual content… They’re also a lot of fun. TT: What is the application process like? GD: So there are two trips per year, one is during the winter and the other one is during the summer. Applicants just need to go on www.israelwithisraelis.com where they can fill out a very basic form. They also need to put down a $250 deposit, which is returned after the trip. There is also a short five minute long phone interview with a representative from Shorashim to check the eligibility of the applicant.

TT: What are the criteria for being eligible? GD: There are three. First, you must be between 18 and 26 years old. Second, you must be Jewish, which is defined as having at least one Jewish parent. And finally, you must not have gone on a peer trip to Israel. If you’ve gone with your family or a synagogue, they are not considered peer trips, so you can still apply. TT: So it is a very easy registration and application process then. GD: It is a very easy process. The important thing for someone who wants to register is to do it on the first day that registration opens. Our allocation is first come first serve. Especially now when funding is limited, it is important for someone who really wants to go to sign up on the first day that registration is open.

Sides of Israel rebecca weinstein

TT: So for the students who are going on the Birthright trip this summer, what is one thing that you would recommend for them to prepare themselves to go on a trip that is definitely life-changing? GD: Students who take the time to educate themselves about the country would get a richer experience. It is also very important to keep an open mind. Israel is a country with many different beliefs – there are some political beliefs and some religious beliefs. You also meet a lot of different people on Birthright; and it is important to keep an open mind and try to absorb everything that is given to you. Then you can come out of this trip as a stronger person. TT: So what can people who are not eligible to apply for Birthright do? GD: There are still many opportunities to still go to Israel, many of which are very inexpensive. Some are under US$500 for airfare, lodging, and food. So there are incredible opportunities available. And I am more than happy to meet with students to discuss those options.

For more information, contact Gordon Dale at: gordon.dale@tufts.edu / 617.627.3242 www.tuftshillel.org / www.israelwithisraelis.com / www.birthrightisrael.com 10

Welcome to Eilat Photo by Emily Parker

Photo by Ally Gimbel

Free

Hubbly Bubbly patricia letayf 12

It was our second night in Jerusalem. We were tired and jetlagged but needed some form of entertainment. Our instincts told us to find a hookah bar. After all, we were in the Middle East…We were idling near a set of stones inside the gates of the Old City when out of nowhere, a man appeared, yelled, “FREE HUBBLY BUBBLY!” in a thick Arabic accent, then scurried up a shady ally. Tempting, but we passed. After this surprising incident, we dragged ourselves back to our rooms to think of something else to do. The Jerusalem Hostel is conveniently situated perpendicular to Ben Yehuda Street. There we found a host of cheap restaurants and eclectic entertainment. We sat down at the first shawarma restaurant we saw and spent a meager 15 sheckels for our dinner. The shawarma sandwich in Jerusalem and the 10-sheckel giant pizza slices in Tel Aviv became our best friends during the trip and satisfied our stomachs and pockets—both of which seemed to constantly be empty. So, we sat down with our meals, and act one of the night’s entertainment commenced. Off in a corner we saw a dreadlocked student playing a Djimbe and his friend dancing like a windmill and doing acrobatic spin-kicks. Funny, but not quite what we were looking for. We continued up Ben Yehuda Street and passed by a harpist next to a group of boys selling Israeli hip-hop CDs. A hundred meters ahead, a choir of middle-aged Korean tourists was singing hymns for a small crowd. The cacophony of sounds produced by Ben Yehuda Street overwhelmed us a bit, so we returned to the hostel. From our balcony we could see 33 Night Bar, a seemingly deserted and entrance-less venue that was being used as a makeshift bus stop. But at around 3 AM, the mindless sound of techno beats woke everyone up. And it was coming from 33 Night Bar. It looked like we had missed the party.

Stepping off the bus, the intense heat hits you in a way you never could have imagined. You have just been driving through the Negev desert for the past four hours to reach this oasis in the desert. As you approached over the last mountain, you could see the glitzy, Vegas-style lights of the hotels along the boardwalk. Welcome to Eilat. Eilat is the southernmost city in Israel, and it has been known as one of the safest locations in the Middle East. Looking at a map, the idea that Eilat is a safe haven would make no sense. The border with Jordan is less than two kilometers east of the center of town and the Egyptian border is five kilometers away in the other direction. At night, if you look towards the southeast, you can see red lights in the distance, which signal Jordan’s border with Saudi Arabia. However, since Eilat does not have a large population, and the security at the borders is forceful, Eilat is a playground for Western tourists. The boardwalk is the heart of the city. Connecting the two major malls and the hotels are a wide variety of shops and restaurants. Even though there are many international corporations on the boardwalk--from McDonalds to Pizza Hut to Gap--there is still a strong local flavor. On the boardwalk, many of the individual vendors sell items local to the Bedouins that live in the area. Also, many of the kibbutzim sell their products on the boardwalk to sustain their movement. In addition, street performers of all sorts turn Eilat into a party especially once the temperature cools down to less than 40 degrees Celsius. Due to the oppressive heat, the party scene does get going into the night. Afternoons when temperatures are well into the mid 40s Celsius (around 110 Fahrenheit) shut down the city while everyone takes the Israeli equivalent of a siesta. Since Eilat is the northernmost city on

seth rau

the Red Sea (technically the Gulf of Aquba), there are many marine activities. Snorkeling is incredibly popular. Even the most amateur of snorkelers can go into the coral-filled waters of the Red Sea after five minutes of training. For a half-hour, one can take in the sights of the clear waters overflowing with fish unique to the region. Since the Red Sea is the saltiest body of water connected to the oceans, there are certain species of fish that live in the waters around Eilat and nowhere else in the world. Another way to see these fish is at the Eilat Aquarium. Besides the exhibitions on the local eco-systems, the highlight of the aquarium is the underwater observatory. One takes an elevator down thirty feet below the surface and just looks out in all directions into the sea. You do not want to miss it! In addition to the ocean, Eilat is renowned for its beautiful hiking routes. Due to the weather, the sunrise climbs into the hills and creates a beautiful backdrop for the city, attracting many tourists to the mountains. Though tourists overrun some of the hikes, especially Red Rock Canyon, there are plenty of trails for everyone to enjoy. Some of these trails are quite dangerous and poorly marked, but as long as one is careful and brings adequate supplies, the hikes are magnificent and the views of the area are spectacular. As a cultural, marine, and mountain hotspot, Eilat has become one of Israel’s largest tourist zones. Even though it may not have as much historical and cultural significances as the rest of the nation, Moses did pass through Eilat during the forty years in the desert. Today, Eilat is primarily a secular city with many immigrants working in the service industry. Eilat provides a needed change of pace when one is spending a long period of time in Israel. If you can tolerate the heat, you should set your sights on going to Eilat.

Around and About meredith turits

Birthright Through My Eyes rachael brill

The summer following my first year of college, I found myself boarding a plane to fly halfway around the world, to a country I knew relatively little about. I had only filled out an application online and done a brief interview, but before I could say shalom, I was swept away on an all expenses paid trip to Israel. I’m talking about the Taglit-Birthright program, which provides a free, ten-day trip to Israel for Jewish young adults between the ages of 18 and 26. The only requirements are that you are Jewish, have not lived in Israel past the age of 12, and have never before been on an organized trip to Israel. Taglit-Birthright has many trip organizers throughout the country, but I chose to go through Shorashim, a program in which Israeli soldiers accompany you throughout your travels. As soon as I stepped off the plane, our group met our eight Israeli companions, as together we began a whirlwind tour of the holy land. We learned each other’s names on a white sand beach on Israel’s northern Mediterranean coast. We hiked through the desert in the south, crossed trickling springs and pools of glistening water in the north, biked through nature reserves, and climbed a mountain to look out over Syria. We played soccer on a Tel Aviv beach and floated on the salt of the Dead Sea. We ate with a Druze family and sipped tea in a Bedouin tent. We stood at the

Western Wall in Jerusalem by day, and went out to a bar on Ben Yehuda Street by night. We remembered those who died in the Holocaust at Jerusalem’s Yad Vashem Museum, and stood in the Independence Hall in Tel Aviv. We visited a military cemetery, where most buried there had died in their early twenties. In those ten days, we not only got a small taste of Israel, but through discussions with our Israeli peers we gained invaluable insight into Israeli life. We talked about the mandatory draft after high school in Israel, and what an integral role the military thus plays in their society. We spoke about social issues that arise in the U.S., such as intermarriage or what it truly means to be “Jewish.” The Israeli soldiers provided a unique perspective on many subjects, having grown up in a predominantly Jewish country and experiencing war at such a young age. When the trip ended, I felt both as if I had just stepped off the plane and as if I had already been there for a month. Despite tearful goodbyes as we left our new Israeli friends, I had a feeling that I would soon see them again. I turned out to be right, for just over a year later, I returned to Israel to study for the fall semester at Tel Aviv University. Not only did I reconnect with my soldier buddies, but I also delved even deeper into understanding the vibrant and unique Israeli culture that Birthright had introduced me to.

Connection As I grasped the dry stone, I had an irresistible urge to look around me. On my left, my best friend was sobbing and fumbling with a note he had written earlier with the purpose of placing it within the wall. A teary-eyed stranger on my right side embraced the rock as one would hug an estranged father, absent for a lifetime. Behind me, a South American man was searching for a Sephardic prayer service. I closed my eyes, pressed my head against the stone, and waited. I didn’t know what exactly I was waiting for, or what I expected to happen at this moment, but all I could do was be alone with my section of the wall. The tears came slowly at first, then faster, and within a few moments I was silently weeping. I knew that traveling to Israel was going to be an amazing experience, but I did not have the slightest idea what I was about to go through. Before I left, I wondered whether I would even feel a genuine connection to the land. I am not a religious person, but I assumed that I was supposed to have some kind of spiritual awakening. Almost immediately after arriving, I started to feel a deep but shrouded connection. I didn’t become more religious at any point, so I wondered why I was feeling this mysterious link. I learned that Israeli culture is almost entirely secular, and the country itself was founded by nonreligious pioneers. This aspect of the society intrigued me. Day by day, my awareness was growing. While attending a lecture on the Lebanese border a week before the war began, I listened to an Israeli community leader talk about living mere yards away from hostile territory. I was shocked by his calm description of routine terrorist attacks on his community. He only needed to say one thing, and I understood; “We’re not leaving. We’ve been here, we are here, and we will all spend the rest of our lives here, no matter what happens. We will never leave, and we will never give up.” At this point, my admiration for the spirit of this culture was growing rapidly. I was sure I was a part of this, but I did not see where I fit into the big picture yet. “You Americans always want everything so fast,” the solider said, referring to the absence of com-

Photo by Julia Tisdale

alex fernbach pulsory civil service after high school in the United States. He was on guard duty at a public plaza and I had begun a conversation with him. The word ‘soldier’ may bring to mind the image of a rugged brute with no feelings or fears, but this is certainly not the case with Israeli soldiers. He was young, probably not two years older than me. There was something enviable yet tragic in his demeanor. This was my Israeli counterpart, diligently and proudly serving his duty to protect his homeland. When I expressed my admiration and respect, he sternly replied, “The land also belongs to you.” The connection was growing stronger by the minute. During my last week in Israel, I found myself sitting alone in the middle of the Negev desert while on a break from a night hike. The Negev is especially beautiful at night because of the complete and utter silence that fills the air. There were no distractions of any kind, only the glowing moonlight on the rolling landscape and my own thoughts. My mind began to wander. I thought about the type of person I once was and the type of person I was becoming. I thought about my roots, and where I have come from. I picked up a pile of dirt and rocks in my hand and all at once, I was flooded with emotion. I finally understood what I had been feeling the entire time. This dirt, this land, all of it, is mine. I am connected to it all just as much as anyone else. The community leader on the Lebanese border, the South American man at the wall, the young soldier, and myself are all part of it. This country is mine and I can never abandon it. This is my culture and my homeland. It will be a part of me for the rest of my life. I turned around and looked back at the wall, a wall that stands as a representation of the strength of my people. The western wall isn’t holy because of its ritualistic significance as the outer wall of the ancient temple. Rather, its holiness is derived from the people who are able to visit it. Through everything the Jewish people have experienced in the last two thousand years, the wall has stood strong. This idea is what really made me cry. I once again placed my head against the wall and said goodbye. As I walked through the winding streets of Jerusalem, I thought about the future. I don’t necessarily know what will happen next, but I do know who I am now, and that’s all I really need.

From Gauchos to Goblets:

A Journey Through Mendoza swapna maruri

he trip from Buenos Aires to Mendoza is certainly not a short one. By plane, it’s only a little less than two hours, but the more popular route by bus can be a 17-hour journey through the night. Though it’s not as close to Buenos Aires as other destinations, like Córdoba, traveling to Mendoza is definitely worthwhile. I endured the long bus ride to arrive in Mendoza and revel in all that this intriguing province has to offer, including the amazingly picturesque landscape and delicious wine. My first taste of the province was, in fact not of wine, but rather of the small city of Mendoza (which holds the same name as the province). Coming from the giant city of Buenos Aires, I immediately noticed the quaint feeling of this little metropolis. It offers very different scenery from its eastern counterparts, as the Andes Mountains function as a breathtaking and picturesque backdrop, no matter where you’re located within the region. Beyond its natural landscape, the city is much smaller and much less influenced by multinational corporations and global powers. There are five different plazas for relaxing and a concentrated shopping area that has great wine and chocolate for sale. Though the friendly people in this small, bustling city enchanted me, the real journeys I took lay outside of the provincial capital. One of the most popular excursions in Mendoza, or really anywhere in Argentina, is to go horseback riding. It’s a fairly ubiquitous activity in various locations within the country, but it’s particularly exciting and memorable in Mendoza because of the natural surroundings. After my first night in the most personable and fun hostel I’ve stayed in (El Parque Central), my friends and I woke up early to go horseback riding. Our tour guides were self-proclaimed gauchos, who are loosely similar to an Argentine version of a cowboy. As we piled into the van excited about the day ahead of

us, they told us stories of their lives in Mendoza and the “day in the life of a gaucho” experience upon which we were about to embark. We reached the horse stables in under an hour and from there, we spent the day horseback riding through the lands, inching closer and closer to the absolutely enormous mountains. Halfway through the trip, we stopped at some nearby trees and decided to eat lunch. As our tour guides talked to us, they offered top quality Malbec red wine and cooked us Argentine steaks by starting a bonfire. This asado was only made better by the music of one of our tour guides. As we devoured our lunch, Diego strummed his guitar and sang traditional songs in gaucho form. After lunch, we used our padded saddles as makeshift cots and napped in the wild. Soon, the sun quickly began to escape behind the mountains and we ventured back to our original starting point. While horseback riding may be a fairly common activity in Argentina, taking part in horseback riding in Mendoza can be one way to really witness the terrain as well as experience some fascinating aspects of the culture. On my second day of the trip, we decided to take one of the classic bike tours outside of the city. The most attractive and well-known feature of Mendoza for tourism is its historic and breathtaking wineries that produce some of the most delicious wine in the entire world, according to both Argentines and wine connoisseurs around the globe. While touring bodegas is absolutely paramount, the most fun way to do it is on a bicycle! A tourist can easily rent a bicycle for around 30 pesos (or US $10 US) and use a map to navigate between various wineries. As we biked from winery to winery, we were again able to enjoy the Andean backdrop to the scenic, tree-lined roads. The different establishments we toured varied in history, size, and winemaking procedures, making our tours even more interesting. One winery was over 200 years old and was still managed by the original family. They produced artisan wine by rotating the barrels by hand. We walked around the cellars, which had the same architecture from centuries before. Another bodega was a complete contrast, as it produced over a million bottles a year and had high-tech machines installed into their centuries old, architecturally beautiful edifice. Our penultimate leg on our bicycle tour, which was becoming more unsteady and slow due to our wine consumption, was a local chocolate factory that specialized in chocolate and fruit liquors. We each tried different liquors and made our most wobbly return to the bicycle rental shop, where the friendly Mendozan offered us even more malbec and snacks. A trip through these wineries is more than just a walk through a building; it is touring one aspect of living history and culture in Argentina. There is a myriad of activities in Mendoza, any of which are sure to please the eager and excited tourist. Horseback riding near the Andes and touring wineries are by far the most unique to this province, and are excursions that a traveler would greatly regret not doing.

Lessons Learned allistair mallillin

Photos by: Yilun Li Joanie Wang Doris Lo Kara Takasaki

hey always say that all you need to know you learned in kindergarten. However, what about those of us who are not lucky enough to go to kindergarten? Sometimes, the modern world stays so complicated that the simple values and lessons in life are often overlooked. While this kind of lesson is nothing if not universal, sometimes it takes a trip halfway around the world to be able to realize what you have. During spring break of 2009, as part of a group of eight students sponsored by LCS Volunteer Vacations, I ventured to the Batangas, Philippines, into the quaint and colorful town of GK Assumption. The people there were simple and few of them were receiving quality education. However, through all the outward adversity they faced, they still remained ever-happy and ever-cheerful. The residents of this village have built lives that are both sustainable and full of love and hope. Through Gawad Kalinga, those who qualify as the poorest of the poor are granted homes in exchange for 500 hours of manual labor. The saying of the organization is something that can be truly taken to heart by everyone in modern society: “Less for self, more for others, enough for all.” Taken from luxurious living in Manila, we were brought to the GK Assumption village in Batangas. From the moment of our arrival, all we experienced were love and hospitality, two trademark values of Filipino society. Dropped off in the village, we were aligned with our host families for the week. I was given to Mama Jo and Papa Edwin, both in their late twenties, who had two children, Jessica—six—and Jed—two. From the moment I was brought into their home, they did everything they could to accommodate me, despite my wishes for the contrary. Their home was standard, with a living room, one bedroom, a spare room, and a comfort room (bathroom). I later found out that they had given up their bed for me during the week I was there; instead dreaming on a thin blanket sprawled out over the living room floor. I was surprised not only by the amount of faith they had, but their happiness and enthusiasm for the opportunity they were given by receiving a home through Gawad Kalinga. While the sun was up, we were given the

chance to work on the build site, noticeably making a dent in carving out three separate homes that would change the course and lives of three lucky families. Laying the groundwork and bricks for three houses, it was a life-altering experience to say the least. What really is ingrained in my thoughts is the last day, when we found out that one of the mainstays that were helping during the week was not even a village resident yet. His family was slated to move in next month, but he was already building homes, devoting his time and effort so that others could get the chance to rebuild their lives as well. During our free time at the village, it was more than enough just to sit in the common area of the village and play and greet whichever kids were there. Each volunteer was bombarded with swarms of kids, as there were over 100 kids in the village. Throughout the week, everyone formed relationships that will go far beyond the one week that we spent in the village. After the five or so hours of manual labor each day, you would think that it would drain you like one of the mosquitos feasting on your blood. However, the kids’ energy was so infectious, providing me with a neverending well of energy that allowed me to play and run with the kids for hours upon hours until we were called on for our next task. The time spent with the kids was all part of the plan. Gawad Kalinga builds not only homes, but communities, fostering an environment where its residents interact and love not only their neighbors, but also the family at the other end of the village. For any volunteer, the goal of such an experience should always be to give more than you received. Glancing through their eyes and their lives for one week, it seemed simple enough to give something that would change their lives. In volunteering, however, there is always so much more to experience. Whether it was the hospitality garnered during our stay, the emanating love from each of our host families, or the unbridled exuberance of the village children, something was given to us that was beyond anything that could have been left for the village. In reflecting on such the time there, I only hope that my actions and words will resonate less for self, more for others, enough for all.

uatemala is very simple. There are no frills because, well, there just plain aren’t any. Life is less about money or getting into a “name” college and more about family, prosperity, and being happy with what you have. I generally consider myself an American, having grown up here and enjoyed the perks of a capitalist society and a quiet uptown life in Massachusetts. Until the seventh grade, when I moved towns and changed schools, I honestly didn’t even realize there was a term for people like me: minority. My parents are both immigrants from Guatemala, and although I am infinitely grateful for all of their hard work, it separated me geographically, emotionally, and linguistically from my only other living relatives. Thus, two days into 2009, I found myself alone on a plane, en route to try and find something I did not have in these United States. Maybe I am biased by the cold northeastern winter, but I swear, the colors down there are different. Reds and yellows have such vibrancy. The living green of every plant hangs down from its branches, dripping a certain dew of life that I just don’t see around here. I stayed with my cousin, Sofia, who lives in Antigua, a town generally known as its name, which means “old” in Spanish. Antigua as a community refuses to modernize, which not only means cobblestone roads and slowly crumbling buildings, but also a widespread lack of many common technologies. Sofia works at a language school in town, so I decided to take classes for five of the ten days I stayed there in order to get in some good Spanish-speaking practice. My teacher, Lety, was a simple woman from a small town who taught me that even though the world is impossibly large to fully travel and discover alone, it is always possible to learn. Much of this trip was spent tagging along with my cousins, something I would have likely done every single day of my life if I had grown up near them. The best moments of Guatemala were often when I wandered around by myself through town, cell phone- and watch-free, something that almost never happens to me here in Boston. The nice part about roving Antigua was that I looked the part, so I was able to avoid lots of the relentless trinket-hawking that most of the obvious foreigners endlessly endured. My Spanish-speaking accent is not as perfect as I would like, however, so it was funny to see how the same places would charge me more when I spoke for myself as compared to when my family spoke for me. Maybe this isn’t very scholarly of me, but

diego veliz-flores

considering that 19-year-olds there are like 22-yearolds here, Sofia and my cousins took me out to all the best bars, such as the Monoloco (“crazy monkey”). By golly, there really isn’t anything like family bonding over some drinks. And it really helped me understand my role in our family in a much clearer way, because between my very shy, cautious sister and myself, I always thought I was the crazy one… Turns out the whole family is just as nutty as I am, and figuring that out felt just plain great. Perhaps the most important day of the trip was when I climbed up Pacaya, an active volcano among the many volcanoes that surround Antigua. I couldn’t believe how gorgeous Sofia’s everyday life is: sunbathed hammock in the patio, antique, unique and gorgeous architecture around every corner, surrounded by luscious green nature, and, volcanoes! I thought I would be climbing with a group of Sofia’s friends I had met, but we ended up in separate vans for the hour-long trip to Pacaya, where I was sardined between a conservative Australian man and two redheads from 70 miles northwest of London. I can’t really accurately describe the feeling. Somehow, instead of relaxing in front of my TV at home, I was entirely by myself, ascending an active volcano in a foreign country, constantly unaware of what would happen next. At the top, an elevation of about 2,500 meters, our team roasted marshmallows next to the flowing lava as the glue on my sneakers started melting from the pure heat coming from the earth below us. If you were ever wondering, yes, lava is very hot. I asked every person I met on my trip about how they ended up in Guatemala. I came across doctors, iPhone programmers, psychedelic-drug enthusiasts, salsa dancers, volunteers, Dutchmen in Irish pubs, college hopefuls and dropouts, street wanderers, and dogs. The message was clear: Guatemala is simple, and the answer lies within family, however you define it. Find your passion and pursue it, even if the majority of Guatemalans enjoy the sun and the bars and some can’t help but find meaning outside of the traditional walls of Antigua. I now feel split. Straight up the middle. I love the conveniences and luxuries of life here, but after spending time in the homeland, I’m not quite sure what to call home. I’m not sure if I should call myself “American” before “Latino” or “Guatemalan” now. I won’t even bring up the whole language issue. I plan on returning again and spending much more time exploring the area outside of Antigua. Until then, I hope the tan I got in January lasts a little longer, because the winters here aren’t very sunny.

[FOCUS]

Guatemala: Coming Home

Ian Maclellan

Tufts Traveler: What do you look for when you’re taking pictures? Objects? People? Or something else? Ian Maclellan: I generally look for something that stands out from everything around it. These are objects and people that would not normally be extremely visually compelling, but because of their surroundings, lighting, or expressions are unique and interesting. I think that everything can be special, it just needs the right lighting. TT: How is Israel the ideal setting for your photographs? IM: Israel is interesting because of its rich and terribly diverse culture and history. I enjoyed taking pictures in the Old City of Jerusalem the most, where just by walking a few hundred feet you are surrounded with a completely different group of people. This is especially apparent walking through the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, going from the Ethiopian Orthodox section crammed on the roof to the Coptic Orthodox down below. The Dead Sea is also amazingly photogenic at the right time of day. The route is especially breathtaking. Israel was also an ideal place for me to photograph because I am nonreligious and was traveling just for fun. This allowed me to take pictures in and around shrines and religious pilgrimage site, like the River Jordan where busloads of Christian Orthodox and Baptists come to be reborn, with a more journalistic eye than a religious slant. TT: What advice would you give for someone going to Israel? IM: I would tell them not to worry about safety. It is easy to get caught up in the idea that your life will constantly be at risk, but the majority of the time you will be safer walking around Jerusalem or Tel Aviv at night than you would be walking around bad parts of Boston. TT: What advice would you give for someone who wants to travel and take pictures? IM: Don’t get Dead Sea water on your camera! That would be very bad. On a more serious note, be extremely respectful and considerate if you are taking pictures of people as they practice their faith. Don’t go jamming a camera in anyone’s face as they pray, unless you have made sure you aren’t truly interrupting. Also Israel is one place where it is better to move along when told to by a police officer rather than dispute laws on photography, especially in and around border areas and contentious areas like the Dome of the Rock.

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