Tucked in the eastern corner of Spain, Catalonia is actually closer to its neighbours France and Andorra than to Madrid. This autonomous region packs a lot into its four provinces of Barcelona, Girona, Lleida and Tarragona; for starters, the north is dominated by soaring Pyrenean peaks and valleys, while its entire east coast is lined with some of the most stunning beaches in Europe. While Barcelona and its coastline draw plenty of visitors, Catalonia’s hinterland is where nature takes over, where countless peaks, forests, valleys and rivers tempt you to go cycling, hiking, moun-
HISTORIC VALL DE BOÍ
taineering, kayaking, skiing, climbing, canyoning, and more. It’s no wonder that whether in the city, countryside or mountains, Catalans love being outdoors. But the outdoors isn’t the only attraction; tucked in valleys and mountains are countless hilltop villages, medieval monasteries, ancient churches and watchtowers. Wherever you go, there is an undeniable sense that Catalonia is different from the rest of Spain; it has its distinctive cuisine, festivals and traditions. And Catalan, rather than Spanish, is the main language.
Catalonia
Just an hour’s drive south of Val d’Aran is Vall de Boí, a valley that contains the densest concentration of Romanesque architecture in Europe, dating back to the 11th century. Situated in the commune of Alta Ribagorça at the edge of the Pyrenees, it is home to 9 UNESCO-listed churches in villages that dot this mountainscape. These historic monuments are well known for their bell towers and murals. While, sadly, most of the murals have been removed – currently on display at National Art Museum of Catalonia (MNAC)– and substituted by replicas, you can still see the characteristic architecture of the area. At Sant Climent in
HIKING MONT-REBEI GORGE the village of Taüll, you can see what the murals would have looked like thanks to a groundbreaking projection mapping project. The Romanesque Inside Sant Climent Route 1 is a mountainous walking trail that connects many of the villages in this valley along a 16km loop. Along this route, you can see some of these Romanesque churches, including Sant Climent de Taüll, San Joan in Boí, and Santa Eulàlia in Erill la Vall.
Sant Climent de Taüll Snowshoeing near Beret
Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park
AIGÜESTORTES i ESTANY DE SANT MAURICI NATIONAL PARK Between Val d'Aran, Pallars Sobirà and Alta Ribagorça regions lies the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, the only national park in Catalonia. Ranging in elevation between 1,600m and 3,000m, the park has montane and alpine vegetation that is home to wildlife like the Pyrenean chamois, marmot, roe deer, as well as birds like the gigantic lammergeier and golden eagle.
from Crag to Coast Skiers at Baqueira-Beret
Located along the western border of Lleida province, near the town of Ager, is the stunning Mont-Rebei Gorge (Congost de MontRebei). This land is a transition between the Pyrenees mountains and the flatlands of Lleida, where rivers have carved out spectacular gorges and 3 Montsecs (dry mountains): d’Ares, de Rúbies and d’Estall. Covering an area of 600 hectares, the gorge was carved by the river Noguera Ribagorçana, and is the only great gorge in Catalonia. There is no road, railway or electricity line inside the area, and the only access is via a mule track dug out of the rock face – this is part of the GR1 hiking trail that traverses this entire canyon (about 4km long). You can access the trail from Masieta or Corçà (which includes a scenic boat ride), where a suspension bridge takes you to the start of the canyon section. This spectacularly scenic trail takes you along the narrow canyon walls about 500m above the river. After the second suspension bridge, the scenery changes before taking you to another highlight of the trail: the aerial walkway.
Huskies at Beret
WINTER IN VAL D’ARAN Catalonia’s northernmost outpost, Val d’Aran (or the “Aran Valley”) is located in the Pyrenees mountains, amidst 3,000m-tall soaring peaks and valleys. Few visitors make it as far north as this region, but its relative isolation – it is only accessible by winding mountain roads – is a major part of its draw.
2,510m, the ski resort of Baqueira-Beret is the only Spanish ski resort on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees, meaning it has the advantage of guaranteeing an abundance of good quality snow.
Val d’Aran is different from the rest of Catalonia; it has Provençal roots (the locals speak Aranese), the weather is influenced by the Atlantic (rather than the Med) and it has its own special government within Catalonia.
Baqueira-Beret actually consists of 3 interconnected ski resorts: Beret, Baqueira, and Bonaigua. The resort is the most prestigious in Spain, patronised by many celebrities, including the Spanish royal family. Even so, the prices here are generally lower than at Alpine resorts.
Dotted with plentiful historic sites, quaint hilltop villages and plenty of nature, Val d’Aran is also home to Spain’s biggest – and arguably the best – ski resort.
Baqueira has plenty of accommodation and off-piste options, while on the slopes, cafes and other facilities ensure that you don’t need to descend to base for almost anything.
Situated between altitudes of 1,500m and
With over 180km of piste, it’s the largest ski
Beginners have ample space to practise, while experienced skiers have the run of the entire resort, as many of the runs are either blue or red. Ski safaris – on the red, blue and black pistes – range from 2 to 4 hours long, taking advantage of the easy connectivity between the 3 mountains. You could start at Bonaigua, have lunch in Baqueira, and finish at Beret, ending the day with champagne at the Moët Winter Lounge.
There are over 200kms of historic trekking trails – called the Camins Vius, or ‘Living Paths’, that date back to medieval times – that join the 6 valleys, 3 mountain passes, and several villages throughout the park. The paths can be covered in seven or nine 1-day stages, with each stage ending at a village where you can appreciate the area’s rich cultural heritage. The transPyrenean GR11 footpath also traverses the entire park.
Skiing isn’t the only activity on the cards. Snowshoeing is popular here, with plenty of trails that lead to quiet forests, frozen lakes and isolated mountain huts. For a more relaxing – yet exhilarating – option, you can also go dog sledding from Beret to the mountain hut of Montgarri. If the skies are clear at night, you can zip through the dark forest with the milky way spread out above you, and the silence broken by paws padding through snow.
The Noguera Pallaresa river flows through the commune of Pallars Sobirà, which stretches from the Collegats gorge to the base of the Pyrenees through mountains and green valleys. With its headwaters in the snowcapped Pyrenees peaks, the Noguera Pallaresa flows all the way to the Mediterranean and is one of the best places in Europe for whitewater sports due to the fact that there’s guaranteed, regulated river flow (from March to October). There is over 60kms of navigable water
The calm, blue waters of the Noguera Ribagorçana are also popular for kayaking, and the vertical rock faces are a magnet for rock climbers (avoid climbing from December to June as vultures and other rock birds nest during this time). There is also a popular via ferrata route that starts from the base of the Mare de Déu de la Pertusa, and once at the top, the tiny chapel provides an amazing panorama of the entire canyon.
Aerial walkway at Mont-Rebei
Serra del Montsec Àger in the Serra del Montsec is famous for paragliding, and has hosted many international tournaments. The uncrowded skies and topography allows for easy launches and landings in well-marked fields. Leisure flights as well as paragliding lessons are available via operators like Albatros Paragliding School, and you can fly from February till November in good thermic conditions. Paragliding © Vall d’Àger. La Noguera.
The Carros de Foc (Chariots of Fire) route is a circular tour of some of the refuges in the area, and the annual Sky Runner event – which happens at the end of August – sees runners complete the route in under 24 hours (4-5 days is ideal to appreciate the route).
RAFTING NOGUERA PALLARESA
You can opt to make a loop of the canyon (turning back to Masieta just before the second suspension bridge), continue along the GR1 to Ager, or arrange for a river pickup anywhere after the aerial walkway segment.
Hiking at Congost de Mont-Rebei
It’s a picturesque landscape of rivers and lakes surrounded by jagged, snowcapped peaks. Park guides are available for nature or birdwatching tours (with snowshoe tours available in winter from late autumn to early spring). area in Spain that caters to all levels of riders. The lift system at BaqueiraBeret is able to transport an impressive 60,000 people per hour up to the slopes.
The walkway is broken into two sections, each made up of a series of wooden stairs and planks that seem to cling precariously to the vertical rock wall. The views from here are as breathtaking as the walk, as you zigzag your way down (about 100m of vertical descent) the steep wall to the base of the cliff before linking you back to the GR1 hiking trail.
The Montsec mountain range is also one of UNESCO’s 6 Starlight Reserves in the world, thanks to the excellent quality of its night sky for astronomic observation. It is home to the Parc Astronòmic del Montsec (in cooperation with NASA), where visitors can get a guided tour of the stars by astronomers in a purpose-built research centre and openair theatre.
Rafting Noguera Pallaresa
throughout the year, and a popular place to start a whitewater rafting tour is from Sort, the capital of Pallars Sobirà. Every level of rafter is catered for depending on the stretch of river; the most exhilarating time is during the peak snowmelt months of May and June, when the waters reach Class III-IV. Rafting operators, like Rafting Sort Rubber River, are available from Sort. Alternative activities like canyoning is available in the limestone gorges of Infern and Sant Pere (both near Sort), offering endless jumps, slides, and abseils of up to 25m.
Observatory in Montsec © Jordi Bas Aerial walkway, Mont-Rebei
BARCELONA AND SURROUNDS The province of Barcelona is by far the most populated region of Catalonia. Its landscape is also the most varied, ranging from the Pyrenean range to the central depression, coastal ranges and the coastal plains. Park Güell
The bustling metropolis of Barcelona (Catalonia’s capital) is probably more famous for its nightlife, food, and architecture (specifically those of Antoni Gaudí), but just in the outskirts of the city are several places where you can be away from the bustle. The waterfront is a string of beaches with sports centres where you can go for an afternoon swim, sail or windsurf session. Head up north to the green hills of Collserola (highest peak is Tibidabo at 516m), and you’ll come across the Carretera de les Aigües, which is a 2 hour (20km) MTB trail that follows an old water distribution pipe. The wide and fairly flat route is popular for cyclists and runners, and sweeping views of Barcelona and the Mediterranean beyond make this trail a scenic one. You can hire MTBs from companies like Terra Bike Tours, who can tailor the bike to your specs and also drop you (and the bike) off at Collserola if you don’t want to pedal up. Guided tours are also available.
WINERIES: PENEDÈS
CULTURE & CUISINE
Just west of the city of Barcelona lies a land dominated by vineyards. One of the most ancient viticultural areas in Torres vault Europe, the Penedès region is considered one of Spain’s best wine-producing regions with its own DO (Denominació d'Origen). The largest winery is Torres, which has its own restaurant, although there are plenty of other wineries of various sizes in Penedès.
Cuisine As the identity of Catalonia is different than that of Spain in general, so too is their cuisine. While Michelin-starred chef Ferran Adrià has put Catalonia (Costa Brava) firmly on the world gastronomy map, Catalonia has no less than 50 restaurants with Michelin star awards (two of them with 3 stars).
Thanks to the dominant white grape varieties, the region is also better known for its cava (sparkling wine) production. You can tour many of the wineries here, many of which have their own tasting sessions. For a bit of exercise pre or post tasting, there are guided Nordic walking sessions and MTB tours which take you through the rolling vineyards.
in the province of Lleida that there is a festival of it in May. There is also a Catalan pizza, known as coca, with savoury and sweet variations. Cured meats – like hams (jamón) and sausages – are collectively known as embotits and served throughout the day.
While culinary inventiveness is obviously in their genes, visitors to the region should not miss traditional Catalan cuisine. There is a strong movement of slow food – also known as “KM0 food” for locally-sourced produce – that support traditional small-scale farmers and producers.
Calçots
In coastal regions, you can find Catalan fideuà, which is similar to paella but uses short vermicelli noodles instead of rice.
Cava in Penedès Cargols
Peaks of Montserrat
The range of cuisine is as varied as its landscape; seafood is the mainstay of coastal areas, while game meat can be found in the mountains. An everyday staple is pa amb tomàquet (toasted bread rubbed with tomato, olive oil, salt). Cargols (snails) are so popular Climbing in Montserrat
Catalana, a local crème brulée. Another sweet offering is churros (deep-fried dough sticks), sprinkled with sugar and served with a thick cup of hot chocolate, normally served for breakfast or in the evenings. Festas Catalonia holds plenty of festas (festivals) throughout the year. Some of the more interesting ones include La Mercè (September 24), which features a parade of paper mache giants, as well as Sant Jordi (April 23) when men give roses to women and women give books to men. Some Catalan festivals are celebrated with castellers (meaning ‘castles’), which feature impressive human towers up to 10 people high, and is an old tradition of the Tarragona region (and now celebrated across Catalonia). This spectacle, or sport, is registered as one of UNESCO’s Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Castellers
Seasons too, dictate the dishes on offer: calçots (large sweet spring onions), which are charred, peeled and dipped in romesco sauce, are eaten voraciously from January to March at parties known as 'Calçotadas'. In winter in the mountains, meat stews (like escudella) are commonplace. Dinner can be polished off with Crema
Val d’Aran Baqueira Beret Vall de Boí
FRANCE
ANDORRA Sort
LLEIDA
GIRONA
Àger
BARCELONA Lleida
REST OF SPAIN
CLIMBING/HIKING MONTSERRAT Just 35km northwest Monastery of Barcelona lies the jagged mountain range of Montserrat, one of the Catalonia’s most important religious pilgrimage sites. At 1,236m, it is the highest point of the Catalan lowlands and is home to the monastery containing the figure of La Moreneta (Black Virgin). It is one of the monasteries along the famous 140km-long Way of Saint James pilgrimage route which leads to Santiago de Compostela; those wishing to undertake the pilgrimage can obtain a pilgrims passport (stamped by each monastery along the way), which you will need in order to access
accommodations at the monasteries along the route.
Penedès
GETTING AROUND
Barcelona
TARRAGONA
Mediterranean Sea
GETTING THERE
Montserrat is easily accessible by train and cable car or funicular (abt. 1 hour) from Barcelona, so it can get crowded during the weekends, and especially during the choir sessions. To get away from the crowds, the funicular takes you further up the mountain, where several hiking trails lead you to quiet paths, meditation caves or to the highest point on Montserrat (Sant Jeroni). The geography of this monolith creates some intriguing rock towers and pinnacles, making Montserrat a mecca for rock climbers. There are over 2,000 routes with a good mixture of sport routes and traditional routes – it has some of the best multi-pitch routes in Spain
Montserrat
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ranging from 200m-300m long, with characteristic hanging belays. Hiring an experienced guide (like Montserrat Mountain Guides) is a good way to get to a climb site to match your abilities.
From Barcelona, you can get to every part of Catalonia thanks to a well-oiled transport system. The network of short-distance rail lines, known as rodalies or cercanías (part of Renfe, Spain’s rail network), is a great way to get from Barcelona to Penedes. Some towns within Lleida are also accessible by train, although buses provide more connectivity. The best way to get around Catalonia is by car, which gives you access to some of the smaller mountain villages and places off the beaten track. As Catalonia packs a lot into a relatively small area, it doesn’t take long to drive to most places from Barcelona; it’s 4 hours to Val d’Aran, 3 hours to Sort, 2 hours to Ager, and just under an hour to the Penedés wine region.
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Montgarri Mountain Refuge, Val d’Aran