General Information
Location Coimbra is in the centre of Portugal. About 2 hours from Lisbon and 1 hour from Porto, the city is at the meeting point of major thoroughfares. A good transport network gives easy access to airports and to the ports of Aveiro and Figueira da Foz. Coimbra is near to both the sea and the mountains, and only about 3 hours from Salamanca and 2 hours from Vigo. HOW TO GET THERE By air: The nearest airports are: - Francisco Sá Carneiro (Porto - 110 Km). - Portela (Lisbon – 210 Km). By train: Trains run by CP (Portuguese Railways - Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses) to and from major Portuguese cities, such as Lisbon and Porto, and some international trains from the Spanish border
at Vilar Formoso/Irun, arrive regularly at Coimbra. There are 2 stations: Coimbra B, on the main line, and Coimbra A, on a short branch line in the city centre. By bus: Regular bus services connect Coimbra to many cities and other places in Portugal. The main operator is Rede Expressos. By car: From the south (Lisbon) or the north (Porto) take the A1 motorway. The A14 links Coimbra to the coast (Figueira da Foz), where new motorways, near the coast, run to Lisbon and Porto – the A17 and A 8 going south, and the A17 and A29 going north. The IP3 connects to the interior (Viseu) and by the A25, to the Spanish border. GETTING AROUND On foot: The main points of interest in the historic city
centre can be visited on foot, starting at Coimbra A station, the main car parks and the more central hotels. Many of the streets linking the upper and lower parts of town (the Alta and the Baixa) are quite steep, so some visitors may have problems with an uphill walk. The riverside parks are also pleasant places for walking. Many shopping streets in the centre are trafficfree. By Bicycle: The city’s hills may make cycling difficult in places, but in the riverside parks there are flat areas for easy pedalling. At weekends the city council rents out bicycles for free in the Parque Verde do Mondego [Mondego Green Park]. By Boat: The Basófias runs trips on the Mondego River. Canoes and pedalos can also be hired. - BASÓFIAS: Boat trips on the Mondego River. The trip on board the Basófias lasts about 1 hour, and consists of a short river cruise passing the following points of interest: Santa Clara Bridge, Açude Bridge, Praça da Canção (Concert Park), Lapa dos
Esteios, Rainha Santa Isabel Bridge, Quinta das Varandas, Bentos Island. Place of Embarkation: Dock at Dr Manuel Braga Park. Daily, May 1 to September 31: 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 p.m. October 1 to April 30: 3, 4 & 5 p.m. Information: http://www. basofias.com. By car: Traffic in Coimbra can flow relatively smoothly, but parking in the centre is scarce and often expensive. In the University area parking is practically impossible. For short stays, it’s advisable to use one of the many underground car parks in the city centre. For a longer stay, use one of the free riverside car-parks, such as the one on the Santa Clara side of the river.
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It is the “jewel in the crown” of the University of Coimbra, and recognized as one of the most original and spectacular Baroque libraries in Europe. It was built between 1717 and 1728 under the auspices of King João V, know as the Magnanimous due to his extensive patronage of the arts. João Carvalho Ferreira and Gaspar Ferreira were the master builders, the painters António Simões Ribeiro and Vicente Nunes decorated the ceilings and the painter and
Portuguese, English, German, French, Italian and Spanish.Tickets are valid for the whole day, so passengers can get on and off at various points. Tickets are also valid for the same day on local SMTUC buses. Seasonal, running mainly around Easter and in the Summer; organised and managed jointly by SMTUC and CarrisTur. - “PANTUFINHAS” (Blue Line) An electric bus that runs through the historic city centre, connecting the Alta and the Baixa (upper & lower areas) and passing through the medieval heart of the city. Passengers can signal to get on and off where they want. Any
type of city transport (SMTUC) ticket or pass is valid on this bus. As information may change in the course of the year, current data may be obtained from this site: www.smtuc.pt Weekdays: 8.45 a.m.–1 p.m./2.45–7 p.m. Saturday: 9.15 a.m.– 1.15 p.m.
Friday, 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2 to 5.30 p.m. Banks are open from 8.30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
TOURISM SERVICES TC – Turismo de Coimbra, E.M. Casa Aninhas, 3.º Praça 8 de Maio 3000-300 Coimbra Tel. 239 857 583 Fax 239 828 605 http://www.turismode OPENING HOURS Shops are open on coimbra.pt weekdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m and from 3 p.m. Tourist offices to 7 p.m.; some shops - General Library of the are also open at lunch- University of Coimbra time and Saturday November 1 to March 27: Monday to Friday, 9 morning. In shopping centres a.m.–5 p.m. Saturday, hours are longer - from Sunday & public holi10 a.m. to 11 p.m/ days, 10 a.m. –4 p.m. March 28 to October 31: midnight. For public services, daily, 9 a.m.–7 p.m.times are Monday to [jointly with the Tourist Board of Central Portugal] - Largo da Portagem April 13 to June 14 and from mid-September: Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Saturday, Sunday & public holidays, 9.30 a.m.–1 p.m./2.30 to 6 p.m.
Machado de Castro National Museum [Largo Dr. José Rodrigues]
Biblioteca Joanina (Joanine Library) [Páteo da Universidade/Largo da Porta Férrea]
interior decorator Manuel da Silva ornamented the chinoiserie bookcases. Many other artists and craftsmen, including bronzers, tinsmiths and glassmakers, were involved in the interior, such as Claude de Laprade, António Simões Ribeiro, Vicente Nunes, Domenico Duprà, Manuel da Silva and Frei Cipriano da Cruz. The outstanding work of the Italian artist Francesco Realdino can be seen in the six reading tables made of precious woods, which are true masterpieces of 18th century cabinetmaking. The magnificent main floor of the library is divided into three rooms linked by arches. The ceilings display perspectival
By Taxi: Coimbra’s taxis are available by telephone or from taxi ranks. There is a fixed initial charge, plus a fee depending on the length of the journey, shown on the taximeter. There are several taxi ranks throughout the city. Taxi Central: 239 499 090 City Transport Coimbra has a good urban transport network, with daily tickets for tourists. There is also the Funtastic, a panoramic bus which visits the city’s main points of interest. The city network transport system (SMTUC) covers the whole city. Information is available at the stops and at http:/ /www.smtuc.pt. - FUN(TASTIC) COIMBRA: Panoramic Sightseeing Tours A panoramic trip in an open-top double-decker bus, passing the most interesting spots in the city, including viewpoints and historic places. Lasting 1 hour, with recorded information in
paintings and the walls are lined with sumptuous bookcases lacquered in dark green, red and black with gilded chinoiserie decoration. The building also includes the Academic Prison, which was built over the remains of the medieval jail of the Royal Palace dating from the late 14th century. It is the only surviving medieval prison in Portugal today. Before visiting the Joanine Library, you should purchase a ticket at the University shop, located in the hall of the General Library (Largo da Porta Férrea). Between November 1 and the 2nd Friday before Easter: 9.30 a.m.–5.30 p.m.; weekends: 10.30 a.m.–4.30 p.m. Rest of the year: 9 a.m.–7.20 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & Market Elevator.
Founded in 1913 by the teacher of drawing António Augusto Gonçalves (1848-1932), the Machado de Castro National Museum recently went through extensive work of remodelling and expansion (due to be concluded by the end of 2010). The building includes a 2000 year-old Roman Cryptoporticus, which was part of the Forum of the city of Aeminium and consists of two vaulted galleries, one above the other. The findings made during the
remodelling have helped to interpret the structures and to restore their monumental western façade. The Forum was laid out in relation to a basilica with an axial apse to the North, which may have functioned as a place of worship. This basilica and its annexes might have been the main site where the most important public events took place. Although the purposes of the areas to the South are unknown, between the two groups of buildings there was a public square surrounded by a row of colonnades. As to the main building that today houses the Museum, it served as the Episcopal Residence from the 12th century to 1910.
It has a Mannerist Main Portal and a Renaissance two-floored veranda. The Machado de Castro National Museum is an ancient and sacred art museum, since most of its pieces came from the Church or from institutions connected with it. It has collections of Archaeology, Sculpture, Goldsmithery, Jewellery, Painting, Drawing, Ceramics, Textiles and Furniture, as well as collections of Oriental Art, Early Books, Metals, Glassware, Modern and Contemporary Art, Heraldry and a diverse number of other pieces. Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday and January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1 and December 25. October to March: 10 a.m.– 12.30 p.m.; 2–6 p.m. April to September: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & Market Elevator.
Police – Command centre: 239 797 640 - Coimbra Municipal Fire Brigade:239 792 800 / 239 792 808 - Coimbra Voluntary Fire Brigade: 239 822 323 (emergency) - Brasfemes Fire BrigaWIRELESS ACCESS de:239 910 000 - National Forest Prote- Praça 8 de Maio - Arnado Shopping & ction: 117 Business Centre [Rua HOSPITALS João de Ruão] - Atrium Solum [Av. Elísio - University Hospitals [Avenida Bissaya Barde Moura] - Post offices (CTT) [Av. reto & Praceta Prof. Fernão de Magalhães, Mota Pinto]: 239 400 Pedrulha, University, 400 / 239 400 500 Market, Santa Cruz Emergency service: 239 (Praça da República) 400 403 - Coimbra Hospital and Vale das Flores] - Dolce Vita Shopping Centre [S. Martinho do Center [Rua General Bispo]: 239 800 100 - Paediatric Hospital [Av. Humberto Delgado] - Loja do Cidadão/PT Bissaya Barreto]: 239 480 300 Store [Largo do Bota Abaixo] Emergency service: 239 - CoimbraShopping [Av. 480 321 - Bissaya Barreto MaterMendes Silva] - Forum Coimbra [Santa nity Hospital [Rua Augusta]: 239 480 400 Clara] - Mondego Green Park - Dr. Daniel Matos Maternity Hospital [Rua [Av. da Lousã] Miguel Torga]: 239 403 060 / 239 404 666 EMERGENCY SERVICES NUMBERS - Coimbra Psychiatric - National Emergency Hospital - Sobral Cid Unit: 239 796 400 Number: 112 - Health 24 (Including - Portuguese Inst. of Children’s Health 24 and Oncology [Av. Dr. Bissaya Barreto]: 239 400 200 ‘Public Health’ Line): 808 242 424 - Poisoning: 808 250 PUBLIC SECURITY 143 - Public Security Police Easter (April 4 to 12) and June 15 to mid-September: Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Saturday, Sunday & public holidays, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed December 25 & January 1.
Has a great variety of products for sale, especially antiques, from ceramic and metal objects and jewellery to domestic utensils. Books have a special place at this fair, where a great number of antique booksellers congregate. Fourth Saturday of every month, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Bus lines: “Pantufinhas” (Blue Line) & 42.
Headquarters [Av. Elísio de Moura] 2nd Squadron [Rua OlÌmpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes] Rapid Response & Inspection Squadron & Transport Section [Rua D. Ernesto Sena de Oliveira] General nr.: 239 797 640 - Republican National Guard (GNR) [Av. Dias da Silva] General nr.: 239 794 300 Traffic nr.: 239 794 400 - Judicial Police [Rua Venâncio Rodrigues] General nr.: 239 863 000 - Municipal Police [Av. Sá da Bandeira]: 239 854 410 ACTIVITIES Festival of the City of Coimbra and the Queen St Isabel The Festas of the Rainha Santa are reputed to be the most genuine manifestation of the City’s veneration for its patron saint, Queen Isabel, wife of King Dinis. Known for her great piety, she showed great sympathy for the poor and excluded, and thus came to be known as the Holy Queen. She was canonised in 1625, an occasion for Coimbra to show its joy and enthusiasm in celebrations
which lasted a whole week. These days the Festas are held every 2 years, uniting religious and secular ceremonies.The high point are the two religious processions, one in the day-time and the other at night, when the statue of the saint is carried across the bridge to the Graça Church, returning on the following Sunday to its permanent home in the Convent of Santa Clara-a-Nova. July (biennually in evennumbered years) Antiques Fair [Praça do Comércio]
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Jazz ao Centro – International Jazz Mee-tings The event Jazz ao Centro – Coimbra International Jazz Meetings brings together proeminent figures in contemporary jazz. In addition to the concerts and “after-hours” events, on the days of this festival Coimbra hosts sessions of documentary film,
pedagogic concerts, photography and graphic design exhibits and a record fair. Annual. June (subject to change) Magic Meetings This is the most important cultural event dedicated to the art of magic in the country. It includes several daily magic shows in the streets of downtown Coimbra and shows at the Paediatric Hospital as well as at the city’s Prison Establishment. The two International Galas at the Gil Vicente Theatre are the high points of the festival, with performances by a
number of world-renowned magicians. Annual. September. Flower and Plant Market Smells and flavours pervade the streets of downtown Coimbra as a result of an initiative that combines flowers and plants with traditional sweetmeats. At the Flower and Plant Market, folklore and ethnographic groups present the gastronomy of the region. This event also includes street performances, providing cultural entertainment. Annual. May (subject to change). Medieval Fair (Old Cathedral Square) A re-enactment of a medieval fair, with people in period costume and the sale of typical products. There may also be medieval suppers, recreating the food and atmosphere of the period. Annual. June
Handicrafts Fair [Praça da República] For a week, craftspeople from several regions of Portugal and from other countries display arts and crafts related to contemporary creations. Types of crafts represented: cork work, pottery and ceramics, weaving, embroidery, lace-making, patchwork, metalwor-
Popular Fair (Left bank of the Mondego) Roundabouts and many other rides, sale of handicrafts and snacks. Annual. June
Almedina Arch and Tower [Rua Ferreira Borges/Pátio do Castilho]
Santa Cruz Monastery National Pantheon [Praça 8 de Maio] Founded by the Canons Regular of the Order of St Augustine, the monastery was begun in 1131 but successive reforms throughout the centuries have altered the original building. The main façade (1507-1513) is now flanked by two bell towers. The main portal, dating from 1523-25, was sculpted by Nicolas of Chanterenne. The three statues of the Virgin Mary, a Prophet and King David standing over the entrance were made by Jean de Rouen in 1530. The Triumphal Arch in front of the church entrance dates from the early 19th century. The church has a single nave with indented tiles illustrating the “Discovery of the Real Cross” and the “Life of St Augustine”. The stalls in carved wood and the balustrade dominate the upper choir. The following chapels are worthy of notice: Saint Sepulchre, St Anthony and Stations of the Cross (in Portuguese, “Lord of the Steps”), all from the 16th century; the Holy Sacrament, currently the vestibule of the Chapel of the Martyrs of Morocco, dating from the 15 th century; and the Chapel of Jesus. The tombs of the first kings of Portugal, Afonso Henriques and Sancho I, lie in the chancel, and for this reason the Santa Cruz Church was granted the status of National Pantheon in August 2003. Commissioned by King Manuel I, the tombs were designed by João de Castilho and executed by Diogo de Castilho. Nicolas de Chanterenne sculpted the recumbent statues, the first made in Portugal in full Renaissance style. Also worthy of attention are the pulpit designed by Nicolas de Chanterenne (1521); the recently recovered monumental Baroque organ, from the 18 th century, made by Francisco Lorete and Manuel Benito Gomes Herrera (1719-24); the Manueline-style crossing (between the nave and the altar) designed by João de Machado; the Mannerist
Book Fair [Praça da República] At the major annual book fair held in Coimbra you can browse and buy books that are often hard to find in bookstores. The program of the Book Fair includes lectures and autograph sessions with guest authors and musical events, among other activities. Annual. April/May.
king, tinwork, woodworking, filigree and jewellery, basket weaving and straw marketry, glassblowing, toys and miniatures, sculpture, stonework and musical instruments. Annual. May.
Sacristy by Pedro Nunes Tinoco (1622-24), inspired by the Vatican’s Sala Regia; the Cloister of Silence (1517-22), by Marcos Pires; the Chapter House, by Diogo Boutaca; and the Refectory. Weekdays, 7.30 a.m.–6.30 p.m. Saturday, 7.30 a.m.–12.30/ 2–7.30 p.m. Sunday, 8.30 a.m.–12.30/ 4–7.30 p.m. Closed on public holidays (afternoon). Open to worship. Bus lines:”Pantufinhas” e 42
The Arch and Tower of Almedina were part of the city walls, which extended for 2km and constituted a strong defensive system during the medieval period. The arch stood after the barbican [outer gateway], and was one of entrances into the walled city in the 15th century. Today, it is the “gate” that connects uptown and downtown Coimbra. Some of its parts are from the 9th, 11th and 12th centuries, but its current form dates from the first phase of the Manueline period (15th-16th centuries).The Tower is currently divided into two superimposed rooms, and the access to one of them is made through an early 18th century external staircase. Traces of some of the interventions made in the building throughout the centuries are visible in this room. One can see traces of the Main Gate of the Tower, which for defence reasons could only be accessed through a wooden ladder that was raised in case of danger, as well as of the crenelle and the door to the battlement of the wall, both on the north side. At the floor level, there are two openings (called machicolations) that were probably used for defence. Connection to the upper floor is made through steps carved in the wall, dating from the time when the City Council occupied the premises. This space has had several uses throughout the times: it was the Assembly Hall of the City Council in the 14th, 15th, 16th and 19th centuries; the Free School of the Arts of Drawing in 1878; the Ethnographic Museum in 1954; the Municipal Historical Archive from 1978; and, since 2003, it has been occupied by the Interpretation Centre of the Walled City, which is part of the Municipal Museum. October to March: Tuesday to Friday, 10 a.m.– 6 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.–1 p.m./2-6 p.m. April to September: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m.– 1 p.m./2–6 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday & public holidays.Bus lines:”Pantufinhas” e 42.
You can also find nearby: The Anto Tower (Tower of the Prior of Ameal) and the Contenda Tower, which are connected by a curtain wall which still preserves the walkway of the battlement (chemin de ronde), although with alterations. The first cannot be visited, and the second is part of the House of Sobre Ripas, which houses the Institute of Archaeology of the Faculty of Letters of the University of Coimbra.
Places where it is performed: A Capella – Cultural Centre/Fado House [Largo da VictÛria/Rua Corpo de Deus] Nossa Senhora da VitÛria Chapel. Fado and/or live music every night from 9.45 p.m. Outside smoking area. Daily from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. Tel. 239 833 985/ 961 534 063/ 918 113 307 http://www.acapella.com.pt
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Rio de Fado [River of Fado] On the Basófias boat, listen to fado while cruising on the calm waters of the Mondego River. June 15 to September 15: daily at 10 p.m. (sporadically subject to change). Place of embarkation: Dock at Dr. Manuel Braga Park, 15 minutes before. Pre-booking: 912 001 832/ 917 056 060. http://www.riodefado.com or http://www.basofias.com
Academic Traditions
The Song of Coimbra
The roots of the Song of Coimbra lie in the city’s urban folklore, both popular and academic, and the Serenade is its most genuine artistic expression. The musician and historian Jorge Cravo defines four fundamental periods in the academic evolution of this type of song in the 20th century: “First period (1920s) – with Edmundo de Bettencourt (1899-1973), singer and poet of the literary magazine Presença, the Modernist School of the Song of Coimbra emerges; second period (1960s) – José Afonso (19291987) exchanges the twelve-string guitar for the six-string guitar as accompaniment, and comes to influence the Protest Song, with Adriano Correia de Oliveira (1942-1982) and António Bernardino (1941-1996); third period (1960s) – from 1963 to 1966, guitarist and poet Nuno Guimarães (19421973) renews the most traditional strand of the academic song of Coimbra, and influences the music of José Manuel dos Santos (1943-1989), M·rio Soares da Veiga and AntÛnio Bernardino; fourth period (1960s/1970s) – Luiz Goes (b. 1933), having assimilated the important legacy of Edmundo de Bettencourt in the redefinition of the Song of Coimbra, gives rise to a New Song, from 1967 onwards. The Goesian School thus led to the emergence of Neo-Modernism in the Song of Coimbra, influencing its development in the 1980s and 1990s (postmodernist generations)”. With the revival of the Song of Coimbra in 1978/80, individual names gave way to the group as a collective identity in performance, and since then many different groups of students have emerged. The Song of Coimbra is a musical tradition that is alive and thriving, being continually renewed by different generations of voices and instruments.
Created and developed in Coimbra over many generations, academic traditions offer university students a special and unique experience. The black student outfit worn with a gown, which is an integral part of the so-called Praxe (student customs and traditions), is the “trademark” of the academy. It is known throughout the world as the distinctive symbol of the University of Coimbra. Traditions related to “caloiros” (new students) are a particularly prominent part of praxe, especially in the beginning of the academic year, when the “Festa das Latas” (or Latada, meaning “Tin Can Festival”) takes place to welcome the new students to the University of Coimbra. This week-long festival includes concerts and different cultural and sports events, and its high point is a parade throughout the streets of the city where caloiros are dressed up, usually displaying donkey ears, tin cans and other decorations. When they get to the Mondego River downtown, their “Godfathers” or “Godmothers” (older students) baptize them in the river using a chamber pot. But the most emblematic student festival of Coimbra is the Queima das Fitas (meaning literally “Burning of the Ribbons”). It is the largest student celebration in Europe and the oldest in Portugal, extending for the same number of days as the number of schools that compose the University. The Queima das Fitas marks the end of the Coimbra experience for those who graduate. The festivities begin with the so-called “Monumental Serenade”, on the steps of the Old Cathedral, and include a Gala Ball, Garraiada (a mock bullfight), Chá Dançante (dancing party), Venda da Pasta (a charity sale), the Queima do Grelo (the ribbon-burning ritual to which the festival owes its name) and the Cortejo dos Quartanistas (the seniors’ parade), as well as the popular Nights in the Park. The event attracts on average one million people, mostly higher education students. Festa das Latas of University of Coimbra Students [Annual. October/November] Queima das Fitas of University of Coimbra Students [Annual. May] Coimbra Fraternities (Repúblicas) Repúblicas originated in the 14th century. These student “houses” are characterized by the cultivation of values such as community, independence and democracy. Decisions are usually made unanimously, and all the members of the fraternity are responsible for the chores involved in managing the household.
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha [Rua das Parreiras]
Dr Manuel Braga Park and Mondego Green Park [Av. Emídio Navarro, Av. da Lousã & Av. D. Inês de Castro]
Founded in 1283 by the Abbess Dona Mor Dias, the Monastery of Santa Clara-aVelha was given to Clarisse nuns shortly afterwards. Extinguished in 1311 due to conflicts with the canons of the Monastery of Santa Cruz, it was refounded by Dona Isabel of Aragon, the Queen Saint Isabel, who had a new church built in Gothic style, consecrated in 1330. The temple has Romanesque features, with thick walls and buttresses, and Gothic characteristics. The cloister is the largest in Gothic style in Portugal. A hospital for the poor, with a cemetery and chapel, and a palace were built next to the monastery. The site of the convent proved a bad choice, due to constant flooding from the River Mondego nearby. The old monastery, which was abandoned for good in 1677, became known as Santa Clara-a-Velha, and the sisters moved uphill to a new building, now the Convent of Santa Clara. After restoration work, the convent now has, in addition to the ruins, an Interpretation Centre that tells the history of this place and of the Clarisse community through the artefacts found on the site. The exhibition “Nuns and Ladies of Santa Clara: Archeology of Seclusion” displays about 10 percent of the objects found, but it will keep renewing the exhibits until all of the finds are included, thus allowing visitors to compare the actual scene with that of the research. The space has an area of 28,000m2 that can be visited. The history of the monument is conveyed through different mediums, including two films – “From Assis to Coimbra: Life and Death of a Monastery” and “Memorial to Water: Contemporary Interventions”.
Also known as the City Park (Parque da Cidade), the Dr Manuel Braga Park is located along the banks of the Mondego River. It was planned in the 1920s by the landscape gardener Jacinto de Matos. Among its varied species of trees, one can find the hybrid plane tree, the lime, the crape myrtle and the Siberian elm. More exotic species include butia palms and Canary Island date palms. In the flowerbeds, one can find begonias, bergenias, African lilies with purple-blue flowers, deep orange pot marigolds, lilies and primroses. Among its statues are a bust of Antero de Quental by Diogo de Macedo, and a romantic evocation of the poet Florbela Espanca by the Galician sculptor Armando “Jesus” Martinez. Opened in 2004, the Mondego Green Park, comprising the two banks of the river, was designed by the architect Camilo Cortesão. Here you can find bars, restaurants, a children’s play area, pavilions for temporary exhibitions and the Central Portugal Pavilion, designed by Souto Moura and Álvaro Siza Vieira (see Contemporary Architecture). The Pedro and Inês pedestrian bridge, designed by Adão Fonseca and Cecil Balmond (see Contemporary Architecture), links the two sides of the river. Bicycle Hire (left bank): weekends & public holidays, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Hire of Pedal Karts (right bank): weekends & public holidays, February, March and November, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; April to September, 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; also on weekdays between 15 June & 15 September, 3–8 p.m.
Audio guides available in Portuguese, English, French and Spanish. Guided visits. Shop and cafeteria with terrace. Disabled access. Tuesday to Sunday: from May to September, 10 a.m.– 7 p.m. (last admission at 6.15 p.m.); from October to April, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. (last admission at 4.30).–Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1 and December 25.Free of charge on Sundays & public holidays until 2 p.m. Bus lines: 6, 13, 14, 14T, 18, 20, 23 & 41
Pedalo Hire (right bank): weekends & public holidays, February, March and November, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; March to October, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Only in fine weather. Bus lines: 5F, 7T, 10, 11, 24T, 38 & 41 (Dr Manuel Braga Park) 11, 24, 33, 37 & 41 (Mondego Green Park).
Coimbra has an extremely rich natural patrimony that includes oak forests, riverside woods and marshes, in a landscape made up of valleys, hills and mountains, as well as parks and gardens within the city.
Having always been connected to literature, Coimbra has had a special place in the work of great writers, and many references to the city are found in their poems and novels. Writers who have lived here include Eugénio de Castro, a poet with a degree from the University of Coimbra who is considered to be the major reference of Symbolism in Portugal; Jaime Cortesão, a physician, writer, poet and historian who influenced and was influenced by his experience in Coimbra; Fernando Namora, whose profession as a physician greatly influenced his fictional work; Antero de Quental, who studied Law at Coimbra, distinguished himself as a poet, philosopher and politician, and is today one of the best remembered student leaders; Eça de Queirós, regarded as the greatest Portuguese realist writer of the 19th century, with a degree in Law by the University of Coimbra, made a great many references to the city in his writings; and Miguel Torga, the pen name of Adolfo Correia Rocha, a physician who lived and worked for decades in Coimbra, and who was one of the most important Portuguese writers of the 20th century.
Torga Route Entitled “Walking through Literature with Miguel Torga”, this route includes a city trajectory that takes participants to Torga’s boarding school, the José Falcão High School (the former S. Bento College), the University of Coimbra, the Estrela do Norte Fraternity, the office where he practiced medicine, and the Miguel Torga House Museum, where the writer lived. The tour allows participants to get to know the places which illustrate Torga’s relationship with Coimbra. A flyer containing excerpts of Torga’s texts related to
his life in the city is available. Place of departure: Largo da Portagem (next to the building of the Miguel Torga Office/ Montepio Geral Bank). Pre-booking: 239 702 630. Miguel Torga House Museum [Prac. Fernando Pessoa] Former residence of the writer, devolved to the Coimbra municipality by his daughter (including the furnishings). In addition to the library and some of Miguel Torga’s personal objects, the house will host a Centre of Torga Studies with a small auditorium and other units dedicated to research. Among the
Bus lines: 4, 37, 42 & 103. Miguel Torga Monument [Largo da Portagem] The Miguel Torga Monument, a homage to the writer and physician Miguel Torga, was designed by architects José António Bandeirinha and António Olaio. Having the shape of a passageway, the sculpture is made of Bordalo stone, bronze and schist. It stands on the riverbank, one part of it jutting out over the protection fence, and it contains an inscription with the name “Torga” and some lines from the writer’s Diário XIV [14th Diary]: “De todos os cilícios, um, apenas/Me foi grato sofrer:/Cinquenta anos de desassossego/A ver c o r r e r, / S e r e n a s / A s águas do Mondego”. [Of all the torments, one only I suffered gladly:/ Fifty years of unrest/ Looking at the running,/ Serene/ Waters of the Mondego].
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Vale de Canas National Forest [Vale de Canas] In the 16th century, this forest, then totally wild, belonged to the Portuguese Crown and was known as the King’s Forest. Its species include the chestnut tree, the white poplar, the ash tree, the
Choupal National Forest
lime, the wild cherry, the bay laurel, the peach tree, the plane, the maple and the oak. Located at a distance of 3 km to the east of Coimbra, it occupies an area of 16 hectares. With a picnic area and an Environmental Education Centre, as well as several hiking trails and a Nature Interpretation Trail, this forest is a good place for enjoying long walks, especially on weekends. Bus lines: 16 & 16G. Paul de Arzila Nature Reserve [Arzila] Situated on the left bank of the Mondego River and occupying part of the course of the Cernache Brook, the paúl (marsh) is a small wet zone, with vege-
tation of bulrushes and reeds. In the ditches there are yellow flag-irises, and along the banks grow poplars and willows. On the edge of the zone there are stands of pine and eucalyptus. The marsh has a varied population of birds and mammals: in autumn it is an important stopping place for migrant passerines, and in spring and summer many wetland birds nest here. Monday to Friday, excepting holidays: 9 a.m.–12.30/ 1 - 5.30 p.m. Bus line: 21. Casa do Sal Garden [Rotunda da Casa do Sal] This garden is located at the entrance to the city from the north, next to Praça Água das Maias
(“Casa do Sal” roundabout). Crossing the wooden bridge that leads to Monte Formoso, you can observe riverine plant species and a number of birds. The garden is a sunny spot where children can relax and play. It has pathways and a small children’s playground. Bus lines: 2, 5, 14, 27, 29 & 40. Vale das Flores Linear Park Opened in 2001, it is a place for socialising, for leisure and for sporting activities. It has a track for walking, and a children’s playground. Bus lines: 11, 24, 33, 37 & 41.
Memorial to Sister Lúcia [Av. Marnoco e Sousa]
Penedo da Saudade [Av. Marnoco e Sousa]
This rocky promontory with its gardens, once known as the Pedra dos Ventos (Stone of the Winds), owes its name (Rock of Longing) to the tradition that Prince Pedro often went there to weep for the loss of his beloved Inês. This romantic site offers a superb view of the eastern part of the city, the Mondego River, the Roxo Mountain and, on fine days, the western extremity of the Mountain of Lousã, 1,204 meters in height. This is a special place for poets and students, as evidenced by the numerous stone plaques inscribed with odes to its beauty and tranquillity
Choupal National Forest One of the most beautiful spaces in the city, Choupal has a vast plant and animal patrimony that is unusual in Portugal. It is also symbolically associated with fado and the student life of Coimbra. In addition to the workout trails for exercise, there are water and nature paths that allow you to observe and enjoy the flora and fauna of the woods, among which the charming otters stand out. Bus lines: 5, 14, 25, 28, 29, 30, 35, 36 & 39.
Coimbra and Nature
The Coimbra of Writers
Miguel Torga Monument
document collection at the House Museum, the books of Miguel Torga’s library stand out, including first editions of his works and others published before his death as well as posthumously. There are also publications by other authors who wrote about Torga and autographed books by contemporaneous writers, as well as press articles and handwritten and typewritten poems. Among his personal objects, highlight should be given to his typewriter, pen, correspondence and photograph and record collection. Articles related to his profession as a doctor include a stethoscope, diplomas and the Yearbook of the Fourth Year Medical Students, dated from May 1932. The House Museum regularly organizes cultural activities connected to the life and work of Miguel Torga. Monday to Friday: 2.30–6 p.m. Open Saturday only with pre-booking and for a minimum of 10 visitors.
(the earliest dates from 1885). In the 20 th century, during course reunions and other student events, it became the custom to set here a stone plaque with commemorative verses, particularly in the part known as the Sala dos Cursos. The garden is laid out in different levels, using the local topography to best advantage. There are benches in every part of the garden, many of them excavated from or set into the sandstone rocks, providing opportunities for rest, for reflection, and also for the contemplation of nature. Botany lovers can find here many species of exotic trees, as well as fruit trees such as strawberry trees, which produce a dark orange round berry. The area close to the avenue is dedicated to important figures in Portuguese culture, such as the poet and educator João de Deus, the poet António Nobre and the writer Eça de Queirós. Bus lines: 4 & 6.
This Memorial is next to the Carmelite Convent of St Teresa, in a building designed by the architect Florindo Belo Marques. Here visitors can see objects used or made by Sister Lúcia throughout her life, including her glasses, sewing box, typewriter, manuscripts, the skirt she was wearing when she entered the convent and other items of clothing. The exhibits are organized according to an itinerary that follows Sister Lúcia’s thoughts and images, creating the impression that it is she herself who is revealing the course of her life. Visitors travel in time from the period of the Fátima Apparitions to Lúcia’s
death at the age of 97 in her cell at the convent, on 13 February 2005. The visit ends with a replica of the cell. There are also some objects offered by Pope John Paul II, notably a cassock, and a Roman vestment offered by King Umberto II of Italy. On request, visitors can see a projection of photos of Sister Lúcia. Lúcia de Jesus was born in Aljustrel, parish of Fátima, municipality of Ourém, on 22 March 1907. A shepherd like her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto, at the age of ten she witnessed the apparitions of Our Lady, and was the only one of the children who spoke with Her, receiving a message that was to be disclosed in the future. After a period of time at the School of the Sisters of St Dorothy, in Oporto, and at the Institute of St Dorothy, in Tuy (province of Pontevedra, Spain), she entered the Carmelite Convent of St Teresa in Coimbra, on 25 March 1948. For 57 years she lived there, devoting her life to prayer. Tuesday to Friday: 10 a.m.–12/ 3–6 p.m. Saturday, Sunday & public holidays: 3–6 p.m. Closed Monday. November 1 to April 1: 2–5 p.m. Bus lines: 4 & 6
Contemporary Architecture
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Interpr. Centre Santa Clara-a-Velha
Cerca de São Bernardo Theatre
Pedro & Inês Pedestrian Bridge
Colina de Camões Amphitheatre
Campus II of the Univ. of Coimbra
Central Portugal Pavilion
Pedro & Inês Pedestrian Bridge (Parque Verde do Mondego) Designed by the engineers Cecil Balmond and Adão da Fonseca, and opened in November 2006, the bridge, part of the Polis Programme, was built to connect the right and left banks of the Mondego. 275 metres long and 4 metres wide, it has a ‘square’ in the middle, 8 metres wide. The walkway is of wood, and the side railings support yellow, blue, green and pink glass panels. The bridge is already an architectural icon: specialists have seen it as “revolutionary but elegant”, “a piece of engineering audacity”. [see Map C]
square metres, and hosts exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events. Management of the building and programming of activities has been devolved by the City Council to the Orquestra Cl·ssica do Centro. The entrance to this L-shaped removable building is through a patio, and its largest volume is occupied by an exhibition room. The organicshaped wavy roof is made of double-lined synthetic canvas that allows light to come in, and provides thermal insulation as well as good acoustic conditions. The external walls of the building are lined with cork and tiles. Daily, 2–8 p.m. Subject to change when events take place. [See Map C]
Flores and the University’s Campus II, for those approaching from the IC2 or the left bank of the river.
those used in the Student Housing (by architect Manuel Rocha de Aires Mateus), led this work to be selected in 2000 by the Mies Van der Rohe Foundation for the European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture. Bus lines: 34.
Colina de Camões Amphitheatre [Quinta das Lágrimas] Designed by the landscape architect Cristina Castel-Branco, this space was awarded the National Prize of Landscape Architecture in 2008. The Amphitheatre’s structure is based on the contrast between its white stone and the shadow it projects on the grass. It plays with green, white and the absence of light always from different angles due to the movement of the sun. The construction is next to a pond of 18 meters in diameter. [See Map C]
museum, not only because of the alterations to the former building and the addition of a modern construction, but also because the expanded space will allow more pieces from its extremely rich collection to be put on display. [See Map A]
Central Portugal Pavilion [Mondego Green Park] Designed by the architects Souto Moura and Siza Vieira for Expo 2000 in Hanover, Germany, the Pavilion, situated in the Green Park on the right bank of the Mondego, has an area of 1375
Rainha Santa Isabel Bridge Designed by the engineer António Reis, the latest bridge over the Mondego has 2 carriageways, each with 3 lanes. Opened in 2004, it has improved access to the area of Vale das
Campus II of the University of Coimbra [Pinhal de Marrocos] Dating from 1988 and designed by the architects Camillo Cortesão and Mercês Vieira, Campus II of the University of Coimbra stands out in the cityscape and represents a new centrality. With markedly contemporary architectural features, of which horizontality and boldness in the treatment of light are fundamental elements, this set of buildings establishes not only a relation with the surrounding landscape, but also with the University uptown, through the large stairway, reminiscent of the Monumental Stairs, that extends across the Computer Science and Electronic Engineering Departments (designed by architects Gonçalo Byrne and Manuel Aires Mateus). The set of contrasting materials, such as
Central Portugal Pavilion
Campus II of the Univ. of Coimbra
Contemp. Building M. C. Nat. Museum Rainha Santa Isabel Bridge
Interpretation Centre of the Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent [Parreiras Street] Designed by architects Alexandre Alves Costa, Sérgio Fernandez and Luís Urbano, the new Interpretation Centre of the Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent was recently awarded the 2009 Diogo Castilho Municipal Prize for Architecture. The space was conceived with the aim of presenting the archaeological site from a contemporary perspective. The work enhances the city’s historical and cultural patrimony, and its subtle position in relation to the ruin achieves a perfect sense of balance. [See Map C]
Santo António dos Olivais Church (St Anthony Church) [Largo Padre Estrela Ferraz]
St Anthony Study Centre [Av. Dias da Silva]
In 1217, the wife of King Afonso II, Dona Urraca, gave a chapel to the Franciscans, who had just arrived in Portugal, to set up temporary quarters. Among this small community, one who took Franciscan orders was the young Fernando de Bulhões, better known as St Anthony of Lisbon or Padua, who was canonised in 1232. In 1247, the monks moved to the left bank of the Mondego, but due to the affection and devotion that the cult of St Anthony began to develop, the Chapter gradually rebuilt and expanded the ancient temple until the 16th century, when the Franciscans again gained the right to the property. They remained there until the dissolution of the religious orders in Portugal in 1834. The Conventual Franciscans returned to the church in 1974, and they have remained there to this day. The present church, from the 18th century, is Baroque in style. Inside, the single nave is lined with 18th century blue and white tiles depicting the life of the saint. There are also 18th century gilded retables, of which the one in the high altar, depicting Our Lady of Conception, is signed by Pascoal Parente.
Inaugurated in November 2006, on the occasion of the celebration of the 152nd anniversary of the Parish of Santo António dos Olivais, the Centre is housed in the former building of the Parish Council. It has a large collection of ancient and modern pictures and photographs – from churches in Europe, Mexico, India, Macau and Africa – as well as books, medals, stamps and tiles referring to St Anthony. Part of the collection was donated by the collector Alfredo Bastos or by private citizens. Here too is the Children’s Room, with handicrafts by Aristides Fernandes and João Morujo, artists living in this parish. Among these pieces are models of chapels, typical local houses, windmills, and even the Olivais
Fernando Martins Bulhões was born in Lisbon, sometime between September 1191 and August 1195. At 7 or 8 years of age, he began his religious education at the school of the Cathedral of St Mary in Lisbon, and at 15 he entered the Augustinian Abbey of St Vincent (São Vicente de Fora). He later asked to be transferred to the Santa Cruz Monastery in Coimbra, and it was there that he met the Friars Minor of the St Anton Hermitage in Olivais, in the outskirts of Coimbra, who lived a life of poverty, humility and penitence, depending on charity for their livelihood. Having received permission to move to this hermitage, Fernando changed his name to Anthony, in homage to St Anton (“Antonius” in Latin). After a failed trip to northern Africa, he established himself for good in Padua in 1231, where he remained until his death. He was canonized by Pope Gregory IX, on 30 May 1232, and declared Doctor of the Church by Pope Pius XIII, with the title of “Evangelical Doctor”, on 16 January 1946. Daily, 8 a.m.–7 p.m. Open to worship. Bus lines: 4, 7, 7T, 16, 16G & 3.
Contemporary Building of the Machado de Castro National Museum [Largo Dr. José Rodrigues] The requalification of the Machado de Castro National Museum involves an ambitious architectural project by architect Gonçalo Byrne, which seeks to reveal and to interrelate the essential elements of a number of pre-existing buildings. When the work is completed, the future museum will be a new
Cerca de São Bernardo Theatre [Pátio da Inquisição] The building was designed by architect Luís Durão in the context of the restoration of the College of Arts and the P·tio da Inquisição [Inquisition Square], and is perfectly embedded in the surrounding landscape. Inside, a modular room allows variable settings, and the auditorium is made of modules. Control panels on wheels can be moved anywhere, and the suspension system has a grid of motors that can be used as a cluster, creating rods in several directions and shapes. The lighting system is made of boxes and movable tracks. [See Map B]
Interpr. Centre Santa Clara-a-Velha
Pedro & Inês Pedestrian Bridge
Church and the Olivais Sports Pavilion, as well as miniatures of old automobiles, trolley cars and trains. The exhibits include representations of crafts that have disappeared or are becoming obsolete, such as basketry, barrel making, cork work and shoemaking. Monday to Friday: 9.30 a.m.–12.30 / 2–5.30 p.m. Saturday: 10 a.m.– 12.30/ 2–5.30 p.m. Closed Sunday & public holidays. Bus lines: 7, 7T & 103.
St Sebastian Aqueduct
Science Museum of the University of Coimbra
Old Cathedral
Bissaya Barreto House Museum
Botanic Garden of the University of Coimbra
University of Coimbra
University of Coimbra
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Academic Museum (stairs)
University of Coimbra [Largo da Porta Férrea] It occupies the building that was the Royal Palace of Coimbra between the 12 th and the 15 th centuries. The building has belonged to the university since 1597, having been purchased from King Philip II of Spain (Philip I of Portugal). It was remodelled several times in the course of its history. The University of Coimbra is one of the oldest in Europe. Founded in Lisbon by King Dinis in 1290, it was definitively transferred to Coimbra in 1537, where it has since remained. Visitors have access to the Joanine Library (see highlighted description), the Academic Prison, St Michael’s Chapel, the Grand Hall [Sala dos Capelos or Sala Grande dos Actos], the Via Latina (a porticoed gallery), the Private Examination Room [Sala do Exame Privado] and the Iron Gate [Porta Férrea]. Between November 1 and the 2nd Friday before Easter: 9.30 a.m. – 5.30 p.m.; weekends: 10.30 a.m.– 4.30 p.m. Rest of the year: 9 a.m.– 7.20 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & Market Elevator. Science Museum of the University of Coimbra [Largo Marquês de Pombal] The museum is housed in the building of the old Chemical Laboratory, the most important neoclassical building in Portugal. It was constructed between 1773 and 1777 for the teaching of Chemistry, during the period of restructuring of the University initiated by the Marquis of Pombal. Besides temporary exhibitions, it has a permanent exhibition that explores the themes of light and matter, based on the University’s collections of scientific objects and instruments.As part of an ambitious project in progress, the Science Museum has incorporated the various museum units of the University of Coimbra, including the Museum of Physics, the Museum of Mineralogy and Geology, the Zoological Museum and the Natural History Museum. If you wish
to visit any of these units, please ask for information at the reception. Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & Market Elevator.
18 th century. Its Romanesque doorway dates from 1179. The Rococo retable above the high altar is dated 1746. The chapel of St Mark has a retable by Jean de Rouen from 1540. The 18th-century illustrated tiles Academic Museum were made in Coimbra. [Largo D. Dinis] Open to worship. The mission of the Academic Museum Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & Market is to collect, preserve and disseminate Elevator. the values, traditions and history of the academic community. Its documental Old Cathedral collection is of extreme value for (Sé Velha) research into many areas of academic [Largo da Sé Velha/Rua do Norte] life. It has an interesting collection of Built in the 12th century during the garments and objects related to the reign of King Afonso Henriques, the University and the academic church’s façade is in the style of the community. second phase of Coimbra RomanesWeekdays: 9 a.m.–12.30 p.m./ 2–5.30 que. The building contains the oldest p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60 & 103. Gothic Cloisters in Portugal. The church has a remarkable number New Cathedral of sculptures from the 12th to the 14th (Sé Nova) centuries and several chapels, [Largo da Sé Nova] notably the Chapel of the Holy Founded by Jesuits in 1598, the Sacrament by João de Ruão (Jean of church was only consecrated in 1640. Rouen) and St Peter’s Chapel by The façade was built in two distinct Nicolau de Chantrene (Nicolas de phases: the first in classical style and Chanterenne), both from the 16 th the second in Baroque. The interior is century. Some details worthy of notice in the shape of a Latin cross with a are the high altar retable, several single nave. Worthy of notice are the paintings, tombs, the Spanish-Arabic gilded retable in carved wood with tiles and the ‘Porta Especiosa’ several sculptures and a painting in the (Beautiful Door) designed by Jean de High Altar, the stalls in blackwood with Rouen (16th century). gilded backrests (17th century), two Daily, 10 a.m.–6.30 p.m. Open to organs, the pulpits near the centre of worship.Bus lines: “Pantufinhas”. the church, two retables in polychromatic carved wood, and Botanic Garden of the University of several chapels dedicated to Our Lady Coimbra of the Snows, the Life of the Virgin [Calçada Martim de Freitas/Arcos do Mary, St Thomas of Villanova, the Holy Jardim] Sacrament, St Anthony, the The Garden was created in 1772 as Resurrection, and St Ignatius of part of the Natural History Museum Loyola. established by the Marquis of Tuesday to Saturday: 8.30 a.m.–12/ 2– Pombal’s reform of the university. It 6.30 p.m. Closed Sunday afternoon, was declared a property of public Monday & public holidays. Open to interest in 1996. It covers an area of worship. Bus lines: 1A, 34, 60, 103 & about 13.5 hectares.Some of the Market Elevator. areas to visit are the lime walk, the large greenhouse (1856), the Victoria Church of St. Salvador greenhouse, the tropical alcove, the [Largo de São Salvador] central square and fountain, the cold Built in the second half of the 12th greenhouse (1950s), the systematic century, the church was rebuilt in the schools/ medical school, the bamboo
thicket/ chapel of St Benedict (1852), and the woods that cover two thirds of the total area of the Garden. Other points of interest are the neoclassical main gate, designed by Master Galinha, in wrought iron with bronze ornaments (1884), and the statue of J¹lio Henriques, one of the Garden’s most distinguished directors. The Botanic Garden holds different programs of environmental and civic education throughout the year. October 1 to March 31: daily, 9 a.m.– 5.30 p.m.; April 1 to September 30: 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 10, 11, 11C, 24, 24T, 26, 34, 42 e 103. St Sebastian Aqueduct (Arcos do Jardim) [Calçada Martim de Freitas] Dating from the 16 th century, it followed the structure, and probably made use of the remains, of a former aqueduct from Roman times. The ceremonial ashlar arch is crowned with a graceful small shrine with 2 statues, of St Sebastian and St Roch. It was used to carry water from the Hill of the Convent of St Teresa to the upper part of town. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 10, 11, 11C, 24, 24T, 26, 34, 42 e 103 Bissaya Barreto House MuseumŠ [Rua da Infantaria, 23] Built in the 1920s, this neo-baroque revivalist building was for thirty years the residence of the surgeon and University of Coimbra professor Bissaya Barreto. The House Museum was inaugurated in 1986 and contains the principal pieces of Bissaya Barreto’s private collection. Worthy of notice are the 16th-century tiles and stonework in the main entrance to the lower floor, and 18th-century tiles in some of the rooms. May to September: Tuesday to Sunday, 3–6 p.m. Closed Monday & public holidays. October to April: Tuesday to Friday, 3–6 p.m. Closed Saturday, Sunday, Monday & public holidays. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 10, 11, 11C, 24, 24T, 26, 34, 42 e 103.
Manga Garden
Nossa Senhora do Carmo Church
Visual Arts Centre
Church of St Pter’s College
Louzã Henriques Gallery of Musical Instruments (Municipal Museum)
Church of São Tiago
Church of St Bartholomew
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Elevator of the D. Pedro V Municipal Market
Elevator of the D. Pedro V Municipal Market [Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes] It serves as a regular means of transportation to and from uptown, where the university is located. Passengers can use it with any type of city transport (SMTUC) ticket or pass. Monday to Saturday: 7.30 a.m.– 10 p.m. Sunday & public holidays: 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Bus lines: 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 D. Pedro V Municipal Market [Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes] It is the main marketplace of Coimbra. It was built in 1867, and has been remodelled several times since then. Here you can find fresh produce everyday except Sundays. Bus lines:1A, 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 Manga Garden [Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes] It is the central part of one of the three cloisters of the Santa Cruz Monastery, and one of the earliest examples of Renaissance architecture in Portugal. Its structure and symbols evoke the Fountain of Life – water flows from the central temple into eight tanks, grouped in pairs, which symbolize the rivers of paradise. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 The Patio of the Inquisition (Pátio da Inquisição) This owes its name to the group of buildings, of historical and architectural interest, where the Holy Office of the Inquisition functioned from 1566 until it was suppressed in 1821. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 Cerca de São Bernardo Theatre [Cerca de São Bernardo/Pátio da Inquisição] It houses the theatre company A Escola da Noite. Design by the architect Luís Durão (see Contemporary Architecture). Its distinguishing feature is the changeable stage (rather than a proscenium stage), a movable arena and control panels on wheels. Daily, 10 a.m.–1 p.m./2–7 p.m. On performance days, the bar is open from 8 p.m. to midnight. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 Visual Arts Centre [Pátio da Inquisição] Since 2003, after work of excavation and adaptation, the former college buildings have been housing the Visual Arts Centre, which emerged from the Coimbra Photography Meetings, organized by Albano da Silva Pereira. Restored and redesigned by the architect João Mendes Ribeiro, the building has an exhibition area of about 1,000 m2. There are regular exhibitions of contemporary photography as well as of other arts. Tuesday to Sunday: 2–7 p.m. Bus lines: 1A, 4, 5, 6, 11, 24 & 29 Nossa Senhora do Carmo Church [Rua da Sofia] Dating from 1597, the church was part of the Carmo College
(1542). The adjoining cloister, which follows a Renaissance style typical of 16th century Coimbra, is from 1600. Worthy of notice are a late 16th century Mannerist retable, with paintings by Simão Rodrigues and Domingos Vieira Serrão, a set of 17th century Lisbon tiles and, in the sacristy, a “Deposition of Christ in the Tomb” by Jean de Rouen. In the 19th century the college building was devolved to the Third Order. Monday to Saturday: 9.30 a.m.–12/ 3–4 p.m. Open to worship. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 7, 11 & 24
The Almedina Gallery (Almedina Arch) displays temporary exhibitions.The Louzã Henriques Gallery of Musical Instruments [Couraça da Estrela] displays a collection of musical instruments assembled by the physician Louzã Henriques. Chiado Building & Almedina Gallery: October to March – Tuesday to Friday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.– 1 p.m./ 2–6 p.m. Almedina Tower & Louzã Henriques Gallery of Musical Instruments: October to March – Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m.–1 p.m./ 2–6 p.m. All units: April to September–– Tuesday to Saturday, 10 Nossa Senhora da Graça Church a.m.–1 p.m./ 2–6 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday & public [Rua da Sofia] The church was part of the College of Graça, founded holidays. by King João III in 1543, belonging to the order of Bus lines: Augustinian hermits. The church and cloister (1548) are “Pantufinhas” (Blue line) & 42. some of the earliest examples in Coimbra of Renaissance classicism. There is a Mannerist retable Church of São Tiago representing the life of the Virgin and the Calvary by [Praça do Comércio] Baltasar Gomes Figueira, the father of Josefa de Óbidos. This Romanesque building dates from the late 12th Monday to Saturday: 8.30–11.45 a.m./ 2.30–6.30 p.m. century. The main doorway has geometric decoration similar to that of the Sé Velha (Old Cathedral). The side Open to worship. door is decorated with shell patterns in homage to the Bus lines: 1A, 5, 6, 11 & 24 patron, St James (São Tiago). In the chancel there is a retable in the style of Coimbra Rococo. Municipal Museum It consists of three units located in the historical centre Monday to Friday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Saturday, of town: the Chiado Building (Telo de Morais Collection), Sunday & public holidays. Bus lines: “Pantufinhas” & 42. Almedina Tower (Nucleus of the Walled City [see highlight] and Almedina Gallery) and the Louzã Church of St Bartholomew [Praça do Comércio] Henriques Gallery of Musical Instruments. The Chiado Building [Ferreira Borges St.] is one of the Dating back to the 10th century, it was rebuilt in the 12th most important and rare iron structure constructions of and 18th centuries. The interior has gilded Baroque the city. It houses six clusters of valuable collections – altarpieces, including a large painting of the martyrdom painting, furniture, ceramics, sculpture, silver and an of the patron saint. On the Gospel side, a Mannerist assortment of other pieces – which were assembled over altarpiece from the 16th century has paintings of the death the course of four decades and donated to the city of and resurrection of Christ. Coimbra by Maria Emília and José Carlos Telo de Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Sunday: 8 a.m.–12 Morais. noon. Open to worship. Bus lines: “Pantufinhas” & 42.
Water Museum [Dr Manuel Braga Park] Situated in the Dr. Manuel de Braga Park, the museum is housed in a former water collection plant dating from 1922. It is a place full of memories, inspired by the permanent dialogue between Coimbra and the Mondego River. The museum’s annual cultural programme includes exhibitions of painting, sculpture, video and art installations, among other events. Tuesday to Sunday & public holidays: 10 a.m.–1 p.m./ 2–6 p.m. Closed Monday, December 25 and January 1. Bus lines: 10, 11T, 24T, 33 & 41. Young People’s Portugal (Portugal dos Pequenitos) [Rossio de Santa Clara] An educational and entertaiment park for children and young people designed in the 1940s by the architect Cassiano Branco. It has miniature replicas of some of the most famous monuments and the most characteristic houses of each region of Portugal. The Sundial Pavilion (Pavilhão Relógio de Sol), designed by the architect João Paulo Revez Conceição, has been part of the park since 2003. January 1 to February 28/29: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; March 1 to May 31: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. June 1 to September 15: 9 a.m.–8 p.m. September 16 to October 15: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. October 16 to December 31: 10 a.m.– 5 p.m. Ticket office open till 30 minutes before closing time. Bus lines: 6, 13, 14, 14T, 18, 20, 31 & 41. Santa Clara Convent [Alto de Santa Clara] This group of monastic buildings, begun in 1649, replaced the early convent of Clarisse nuns, which had been damaged by floods from the nearby Mondego. Baroque but sober and utilitarian in style, the building is adorned with small turrets. The church has a retable in the high altar and a 17th century crystal and silver urn containing the body of the Queen St Isabel. The original stone tomb of the city’s patron saint, the work of Master Pêro in 1330, is in the lower choir. The cloister, dating from 1733, was designed by Carlos Mardel. Winter: 8.30 a.m.–6 p.m. Rest of the year: 8.30 a.m.–7 p.m. Guided visits: Monday to Sunday, 8.30–11 a.m./ 1–6 or 7 p.m. Open to worship. Bus lines: 6, 14, 14T, 20 & 3. Gardens of the Quinta das Lágrimas [Rua António Augusto Gonçalves] The Quinta das Lágrimas, with its woods and gardens, continues to preserve its past by keeping alive the love story of Pedro and Inês. Near ponds and fountains, you might find the marbled newt, the Iberian newt, the common toad or Perez’s frog. The characteristic riverine vegetation of the gardens includes some exotic trees, such as acacias, horse chestnuts and Japanese cheesewoods. The imposing sequoia deserves a pause to admire its magnificence. The colourful garden displays roses, rosemary flowers and wild jasmine. The fruit that falls from the Japanese quince feeds the hedgehogs in the garden, while the walnuts and hazelnuts are chosen by the jays and in some periods by the common magpies. The setting includes a medieval garden and a magnificent outside amphitheatre (Colina de Camões). March 16 to November 15: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. 16 November to 15 March: Thurday to Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed January. Bus lines: 18. Lapa dos Esteios [Estrada das Lages] Immortalised by poets, and for almost a century a meeting point for well-known intellectuals, it forms part of the 17th century Quinta das Canas, which still preserves much of its valuable heritage. From this legendary place, which figures in many stories of Coimbra life, one can enjoy a unique view of the river and the city. Worthy of notice are the group of statues that represent Fortitude, Diogenes, Asia, Faith, Hope, Charity and Death. The Lapa’s beautiful and rich flora includes plane trees, boxwoods, acanthus, African lilies, hydrangeas, lilies, carnations, white lilies, rose vines, begonias, wisteria, passion fruit, grapevines, laurel, rosemary, mint, olive trees, peach trees, medlars, cherry trees, orange trees, lemon trees and banana trees. Among the many species of birds that one can find here are blackbirds, jays and house martins. Daily, 9 a.m.–5.30 p.m. Bus lines: 23. Infante D. Henrique Exploratorium Live Science Centre [Mondego Green Park] The Prince Henry Exploratorium arose from an initiative that the Portuguese state implemented in the 1990s of creating centres for initiating the general population into science. It was established in 1995 as a nonprofit association by the University of Coimbra and the School of Science and Technology, which are its principal members. Its first premises were in the Coimbra Municipal Cultural Centre (Casa Municipal da Cultura). In 1998, it became part of the network of Live Science Centres as a pluridisciplinary centre, and in 2000 it was recognized as a public interest organization. In 2009, it moved to a building of its own, on the left bank of the Mondego Green Park, with a main exhibition room dedicated to the relations between the basic sciences and health. The building has an auditorium, an experimentarium and a cyberspace, as well as a shop and a cafeteria. There are also workshops where the modules to be exhibited are built. Outside, there are several installations and modules, as well as a small planetarium, a bus for thematic exhibitions and pedagogical vegetable gardens. On the right bank of the Green Park, the Exploratorium has two glass cubes: the Cubic Orchid (Orquídea ao Cubo), an interactive orchid garden, and the Cubic Sun (Sol ao Cubo), with activities related to astronomy. Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–5.30 p.m. Closed between 1.15 and 2.15 p.m. from 15 July to 15 September.
C
Mondego Swimming Pools [Mondego Green Park] These outdoor swimming pools are located on the left bank of the Mondego Green Park. There are 2 pools, one of 23x16 m and 1.20 m in depth, and the other 7x7m for children. Daily, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. (Summer).
Infante D. Henrique Exploratorium Live Science Centre
Pedro & Inês Pedestrian Bridge
Water Museum
Mondego Swimming Pools
Mondego Green Park
View from the right bank of the Mondego
Quinta das Lágrimas
Young People’s Portugal (Portugal dos Pequenitos)
Sá da Bandeira Garden [Av. Sá da Bandeira] This garden is situated in the middle of the Sá da Bandeira Ave., and was begun as part of an 1885 project for the urbanisation of the Quinta de Santa Cruz, which included a public walkway with gardens. These were entrusted to Prof. Júlio Henriques of the Botanic Garden. They were inaugurated in 1889, but only finished in 1928, after alterations by the landscape gardener Jacinto de Matos. The ponds where some ducks swim leisurely, attract pigeons, sparrows, pallid swifts, black redstarts and long-tailed tits, which fly from tree to tree. The flowerbeds, under the shade of plane trees, American magnolias and Norfolk pines, display arrangements of pansies, roses, geraniums, daisies, primroses and thale cress. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 7, 11, 24 & 29 Coimbra Student Union (Associação Académica de Coimbra) [Rua Padre António Vieira] The beginnings of the Coimbra Student Union, the largest in the country, date back to 1836/ 1837, when the Drama Academy was founded (charter of 1837). The main building, constructed during the period of fascist rule known as the ‘New State’, houses several sports and cultural departments, as well as autonomous organizations. All the students of the University of Coimbra are members of the union. Bus lines: 1A, 5, 7, 11, 24 & 29. Gil Vicente Academic Theatre [Av. Sá da Bandeira] Inaugurated in 1961, it is one of the most emblematic institutions of the University and of the city of Coimbra in the area of the promotion and dissemination of culture. Throughout the years, it has provided an important support to the cultural and artistic activities of some of the departments and organizations of the Coimbra Student Union. It is a vital cultural reference for Coimbra and surrounding region. The Café-Teatro is open to the public, and provides a relaxing view of the Praça da República. Monday to Friday: 9.30 a.m.–12.30/2 p.m.–1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday: 2 p.m.–1 a.m. Bus lines: 1A, 1F, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 24 & 29. Praça da República A quintessential meeting point, the República Square is one of the most central places in the city. Surrounded by cafes and bars with seating outside, on weekends and festive occasions it teems with people who start the night there. Bus lines: 1A, 1F, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 24 & 29. Santa Cruz Park / Sereia Garden [Praça da República] Popularly known as the Sereia (Mermaid) Garden, this dates from the 18th century and was once part of the grounds of the Santa Cruz Monastery. The entrance is a triumphal arch topped by 3 statues representing Faith, Hope and Charity, flanked by 2 turrets with baroque decoration. It has a rich variety of animals and plants, such as the European lime, the elm, the hybrid black poplar, the sweetgum and the Judas tree. There is also a colony of midwife toads, so called because the males carry the fertilised eggs on their backs. The park has several beautiful nooks decorated with magnificent tile panels, as well as fountains and waterfalls. The yard once used for the “jogo da pela” (an ancient game played with a ball which is one of the precursors of tennis) and the Walnut Fountain (Fonte da Nogueira) with the statue of a triton are worthy of notice. Bus lines: 1A, 1F, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 24 & 29.
D
Municipal Cultural Centre (Casa Municipal da Cultura) [Rua Pedro Monteiro] It houses the Municipal Library, a children’s library and didactic playroom, the municipal Image Library and Music Library. The centre also has a conference room, a multi-purpose room and several exhibition rooms, as well as a section for the visually impaired, a periodicals
Santa Cruz Park / Sereia Garden
Santa Cruz Park / Sereia Garden
Sá da Bandeira Garden
Gil Vicente Academic Theatre
Coimbra Student Union’s Garden
Sá da Bandeira Garden
Sá da Bandeira Garden
Sá da Bandeira Garden - Monument to the 1st World War Deaths
collection, a reading room, the Office of the City’s History, a gallery of donations and a film and video library. Many of its areas offer access to the Internet. Municipal Cultural Centre: from 15 July to 15 September, Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.–7.30 p.m.;
16 September to 14 de July, Monday-Friday, 9 holidays; 16 September to 14 de July, Mondaya.m.- 7.30 p.m.; Saturday, 1.30 p.m – 7.00 p.m Friday, 10 a.m.–7.30 p.m.; Saturday, 1.30–7 p.m. Sunday & public holidays. Closed Sunday & public holidays. Coimbra Municipal Library: 15 July to 15 September, Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.–12.30/2– 6.30 p.m.; closed Saturday, Sunday & public
Monastery of Celas [Largo do Mosteiro de Celas/Rua Manso Preto] This convent was founded in 1213 by Dona Sancha, daughter of Sancho I, the second king of Portugal. Restoration work carried out from the 16th to the 18th centuries altered the original outline, except for the church (circular in shape), the choir, the chapter house and the cloister. This, with its figurative capitals from the late 13 th and early 14 th centuries, is considered one of the finest Gothic cloisters in Portugal. Monday to Friday: 3–6 p.m. Closed Saturday, Sunday & public holidays. Open to worship. Bus lines: 6, 7, 7T & 29. Miguel Torga House Museum [Praceta Fernando Pessoa] Former residence of the writer, devolved to the Coimbra municipality by his daughter (including the furnishings). In addition to the library and some of Miguel Torga’s personal objects, the house will host a Centre of Torga Studies (see Coimbra of Writers). Monday to Friday: 2.30–6 p.m. Open Saturday only with pre-booking and for a minimum of 10 visitors. Bus lines: 4, 37, 42 & 103. Penedo da Meditação [Roundabout of streets Dr Afonso Romão and Afrânio Peixoto] Secluded from the city bustle, this rocky spot perched over an open and quiet valley provides a viewpoint over the city. The few trees that can be found include the fig tree, the elm, the olive tree and the Mexican cypress (cupressus lusitanica), around which robinets and common buzzards flutter. This spot once inspired poets such as José Régio, António Nobre and Eugénio de Castro. Bus lines: 37. Heróis do Ultramar Olympic Complex [Praça Heróis do Ultramar] Close to the City Stadium, this complex includes the Olympic Swimming Pools and a Multisports Pavilion, sometimes used for cultural events. The swimming pools are equipped for training and competition (including international high performance competitions in a 50 meter pool), and have seats for 670 spectators and 505 swimmers, as well as a lounge and a cafe. The Pavilion has a 50x30m arena with floating wood surface for practice or competition of indoor sports, such as handball, basketball, volleyball, futsal, skating and gymnastics, among others. It seats 2,239 spectators and has places for the handicapped. The premises include three gymnasiums, 8 locker rooms, a parking garage and two cafes. Swimming Pool Complex: Monday to Friday, 7 a.m.– 11.30 p.m. Saturday, 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Multisports Pavilion: Monday to Sunday, 8 a.m.–midnight. Subject to change depending on schedule of events. Bus lines: 7T & 37. City of Coimbra Stadium (Estádio Cidade de Coimbra) [Rua D. Manuel I] It has four levels with a total of 30,000 seats. The playing field has natural grass with synthetic reinforcement underneath, allowing for intensive use in soccer and rugby. It is also equipped with outdoor and indoor athletics tracks, two warm-up rooms, two gymnasiums and a Judo training centre. The building includes several business and shopping areas. Monday to Sunday: 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Subject to change depending on schedule of events. Bus lines: 11, 11C, 24 & 34.
E
Church of São José [Rua Combatentes da Grande Guerra] The project for the Parish Church of S. José [St Joseph], by the architect Álvaro da Fonseca, dates Heróis do Ultramar Olympic Complex Miguel Torga House Museum Monastery of Celas from 1953, and the building was completed in 1957. City of Coimbra Stadium The statues inside the church (of St Joseph, Our Lady and the Via Sacra) are by the sculptor Maria You can also find nearby: Amélia Carvalheira. The outside sculptures (the angels and St Joseph) Municipal Theatre Workshop (Oficina Municipal de Teatro) are by Nicolau Bertoni. The Parish Hall and the [Rua Pedro Nunes] Funeral Chapel (1976) were designed by the Inaugurated in 2003, the building has outside walls covered with transparent polycarbonate on opaque canvas, reflecting the surrounding architect Sampaio. The landscape architect Manuel urban landscape. The open space inside, without a predefined stage, favours close contact with the audience, as if it were part of the Cerveira designed the arrangement of the performance. In addition to this central area for performances, there are two foyers, shops, a rehearsal room, an anteroom for the control churchyard (1978). In the interior, a stained glass panels, an office and an exhibition area. window by Monsignor Nunes Pereira stands out. Teatrão, a children’s theatre company, is the resident company. Daily, 8.30 a.m.–8 p.m. Open to worship. Bus lines: 24, 34 & 33. Bus lines: 11, 11C, 24 & 34.