Ecotourism 04. Inland Andalusia

#et04

20 SUGGESTIONS

INLAND ANDALUSIA ("TIERRA ADENTRO") Ecotourism 1

Once you set foot in Andalusia, you are no longer just you. You become

Your Andalusia

andalucia.org 2 Ecotourism

CONTENTS 04. THE TRAIL OF THE WHITEWASHED VILLAGES The Cádiz

mountain range, with a rich architectural heritage.

nº 04

Suggestions Inland Andalusia

STAFF

[Edited by] Concha Manjón/Entropía Ediciones

[Published by] Salvador Hernáez [Textes] Comunicación y Turis-

mo, S.L. / Handbook of tourism in Andalucía. Consejería de Turismo y Comercio de la Junta de Andalucía

[Design] Alberto Álvarez de Perea [Community Manager] Alberto

Álvarez de Perea

[International] José Antonio Sierra [Commercial department] Concha Manjón / Estrella Torres

[Webmaster] obolo.com [Translation] Isabelle Thévenet [Cover photo] Castellar de la Frontera (Cádiz) © Lorenzo Martín Iglesias

08. CAZORLA This protection has made it a favourite destination for visitors in search of direct contact with nature.

12. ALPUJARRA Its landscape is

rugged as well is colourful, its orography is cut by ravines, gorges and valleys.

16. SIERRA NEVADA It is the

largest protected area in Spain and reserve of the Biosphere.

24. CASTLES Andalucía is a land of contrasts, a passing point and coveted jewel since ancient times with numerous fortified towns.

32. WALKING Walking is an ideal way of coming in contact with nature. There are routes for all ages and different degrees of difficulty.

36. INTERMEDIATE CITIES The

Medium-Sized Cities in the Centre of Andalusia have played an important role in the history of this region.

42. THE IBERIAN HAM The Ibe-

rian ham is the ambassador of andalusien gastronomy dans le monde. Ecotourism 3

White Villages

Cรกdiz Zahara de la Sierra (Cรกdiz)

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The Trail of the Whitewashed Villages

his is one of the most spectacular routes in Andalucía where the history and cultures of the civilisations that settled here left deep marks. The white villages get their name from the tradition of frequently whitewashing the outside of their houses and they have typical narrow streets and red roofs. Many of these villages still have a castle or the ruins of one. This traditional route starts at Arcos de la Frontera (Cádiz); it goes through Ronda (Málaga) and descends to Castellar de la Frontera. A total of 250 kilometres through pure nature. There are species on route like the Spanish fir (abies pinsapo) in the Nature Park of los Alcornocales and also in the Sierra de Grazalema. There are numerous rural hotels, farms and ancient mansions adapted to provide accommodation, campsites and recreation areas. The Cádiz mountain range, with a rich architectural heritage, stretches to the north of the province along a steep, beautiful, green and thrilling route: the Trail of SHEMSU.HOR

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White Villages

Cádiz

the Whitewashed Villages. Arcos de la Frontera, granted the historic-artistic designation, is one of the most famous whitewashed villages. It is followed by Ubrique, El Bosque and Prado del Rey, not only famous for their stunning scenery, but also for their arts and crafts.

Casares, El Gastor, Espera, Gaucín, Genalguacil, Grazalema, Montejaque, Olvera, Prado del Rey, Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas, Ubrique, Vejer de la Frontera, Villaluenga del Rosario, Villamartín and Zahara de la Sierra. Olvera (Cádiz)

The village of El Gastor is called the “Balcony of the white villages” because of its whiteness and from its highest point (1.060 metres) you can look down on the marvellous view over the neighbouring villages. Algar, Algodonales, Puerto Serrano, Benaocaz, Bornos, Espera, Villamartín, Olvera and Villaluenga del Rosario are also part of the trail. The trail goes deep into the Grazalema Nature Reserve, declared a Biosphere Reserve. Here you must visit the town of the same name, and Zahara de la Sierra, which has one of the most dramatic landscapes in the area. Finally, you will find Alcalá del Valle and Setenil de las Bodegas, with their unusual layout of houses built into the mountain, following the river's course. The villages on this route are Alcalá de los Gazules, Algodonales, Algatocín, Arcos de la Frontera, Benaocaz, El Bosque, Bornos, JAMES GORDON

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Setenil de las Bodegas (Cรกdiz)

JMANTEAU

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Cazorla (Jaén)

Cazorla

Jaén

The Nature Park of Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas

his nature park, one of the largest in Spain with an area of 214.300 hectares, has been declared to be a reserve of the Biosphere by the UNESCO as well as a Special protection Zone for Birds by the European Union. It has a wealth of synergetic species that has favoured its declaration as a National Hunting Reserve of Cazorla and Segura. This protection has made it a favourite destination for visitors in search of direct contact with nature. It has an excellent offer for hotels and holiday cottages as well as numerous sports offers in the heart of nature. The rivers Guadalquivir and Segura have their source in this nature park, two rivers that flow through incomparable landscapes and the possibility to get to know over a hundred endemic species, notably the “Cazorla violet” and you can also see 36 different types of mammals in their natural environment, including the mountain goat, deer, fallow deer, moufflon, otter; mongoose, fox and birds of prey like the golden eagle; griffon vultures fly overhead, while back on land you can see the Valverde lizard, an endemic species.

Places of interest in the Park’s area of interest: • The Tranco de Beas reservoir, remains of the San Miguel castle, Bujaraiza, de la Bolera and Aguas Negras • The Anchuricas and Valdeazores lagoons • The Negra, Cañada Catena, Montiñana, Los Parrales and Higuera fountains • The Bayona, Fresnedilla and El Robledo fountains • The Coto Ríos, Llanos de Arance, la Pascuala fountain • El Yelmo • The Saucejo and Cueva del Peinero refuges • The source of the river Guadalquivir • Las Buitreras • “Salto de los Órganos” waterfall on the river Borosa • Collado del Almendral synergetic park • The templar castle and the Tíscar watchtower. • The Moorish and Christina castles of Cazorla • The historic part of Segura de la Sierra TREVOR HUXHAM

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RANDI HAUSKEN

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Úbeda / Baeza

Jaén

Úbeda and Baeza World Heritage Sites

eautiful churches, impressive pabuildings around the plaza del Pópulo and laces, manor houses or surprising the church of San Francisco streets make up a monumental heritage impregnated with aesthetic and In Jaén visitors can appreciate the Catherenovating feeling of the Renaissance style. dral, Vandelvira intervened in the project Time has stood still in Úbeda and Baeza, and he is responsible for the Capideclared to be a World Heritage Site. tular Hall and the Vestry, a masterBaeza (Jaén) In Úbeda, you can see some of piece in Spanish architecture. the main works of Andrés de Vandelvira around Continuing the route in the plaza del Salvathe province of Jaén in dor like the Palace Martos we have the of the Vázquez, Town Hall; in Huelthe palace of ma the parish the Marqués church. de Mancera, the Granary, Canena and the building Sabiote can that houses boost of their the Parador de magnificent ReTurismo hotel naissance castand the church les; in Villacarrillo of the Salvador, there is the church the project of Dieof la Asunción and go de Siloé. in Cazorla, besides the ruins of its parish church The route passes the palace there is the Cadenas founANNA & MICHAL of the Conde de Guadiana, the tains. House of the Towers, with a beautiful Renaissance style patio and the Hospi- The route of Vandelvira and Renaissance tal de Santiago. aims at recovering civil, religious and military buildings from the sixteenth century In Baeza the following are outstanding for tourist use and in this way combining a examples, the Town Hall, the complex of territorial area rich in its monumental and the Palace of Jabalquinto, the seminary of historic heritage. San Felipe de Neri, the Cathedral and the 10 Ecotourism

Sacra Capilla del Salvador. Úbeda (Jaén)

RANDI HAUSKEN

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Bubión (Granada)

La Alpujarra

Granada

The Route of the Alpujarra

a Alpujarra is situated between the Sierra Nevada, in Granada, and the sierra de Lújar and the sierra de Gádor in Almería. This area opens onto the Mediterranean from the heights of Mulhacén, the highest peak on mainland Spain. Its landscape is rugged as well is colourful, its orography is cut by ravines, gorges and valleys. The villages of this district repose and some times climb the slopes here, discovered by travellers in search of peace and quiet, good food and an excellent offer of action holidays: hiking routes, mountain treks on horseback, forests where stressed executives can get rid of their accumulated adrenaline by taking part in in “war games”. This area was inhabited by Phoenicians and Romans, however it was the eight centuries of Moorish presence that gave it its actual appearance, with architecture in the form of steps, irrigation by means of channels and ditches, the gastronomy and

traditions and even the way of life where time is relative. Isolated and with difficult access for centuries, this land stayed virgin until recently. The village of the Alpujarra, with their white houses, the typical chimney pots and their terraces or “terraos” planted with geraniums and carnations, they tumble down the slopes between green forests with chestnut and walnut trees and the murmur of the water from the melting snow running down from the heights of Sierra Nevada. The beauty of these villages is only one of their many attractions. Lanjarón, spa town, famous for the longevity and good health of its inhabiCapilerilla (Granada)

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ARCHIVE

JEANNE MENJ

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La Alpujarra

Granada TrevĂŠlez (Granada)

Th i s a rea w a s i nhabited t he eight

RANDI HAUSKEN

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d b y P h o e ni c i a n s a n d Ro m a n s , h ow eve r i t w a s t cen tur i e s of M o or i s h p re s en ce tants, is the gateway to this surprising Alpujarra district. Along the Poqueira valley, from Órgiva you ascend to the highest village in Spain, Trévelez, famous for its delicious ham.

Sorvilán and Albondón, to mention a few.

Villages that have marvelled local people and visitors alike. Pedro Antonio de Alarcón dedicated his first book of travels to the Other villages perched on Alpujarra and the hispanist the way up to the Veleta and Gerald Brenan, who lived in Mulhacén are Pampaneira, Yegen, wrote “South from Bubión and Capileira. They Granada” about the Alpujarsay this is an area of spirits ra. and witchcraft, besides having a cuisine with a strong For Federico García Lorpersonality, based on pork ca, the Alpujarra was the products. “country of nowhere”. Songs and dance make up The river Guadalfeo cuts this an important part of a rich district across in two, forfolklore and an ancestral ming the High Alpujarra and tradition. the low Alpujarra. The high part is south of Sierra Neva- The Moors and Christians da with beautiful villages festivals are celebrated in like Bérchules, Bus- many of the villages, with quístar, Mecina the trovero verses from the Fondales, Alpujarra being some of the Jubiles or most original. Two troveros Yegen. take turns to sing, improviThe Low sing the words as they go Alpujar- on. ra is the part The fertile Lecrín valley is of the next to the Alpujarra, with Contra- plantations of oranges and viesa lemons perfuming the air mountain with their sweet blossom in chain, with springtime. Ancient flourvillages with mills, Moorish castles and a marked perfarmsteads dot this quiet sonality like Lújar, and luminous district. ARCHIVE

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Sierra Nevada

Granada Lagunas de Yeguas en Sierra Nevada (Granada)

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The Sierra Nevada National Park

ight in the heart of the Penibética mountain chain, the National Park of Sierra Nevada is in the provinces of Granada and Almería, with an area of 169.239 hectares and no less than 67 municipalities, 44 in the province of Granada and 23 in the province of Almería. It is the largest protected area in Spain and the two highest peaks on mainland Spain are here, the Veleta and Mulhacén, with their perpetual snow on the north face of Sierra Nevada. In the east towards the province of Almería, it touches the foothills of the only desert in Europe in Tabernas. It has been declared to be a reserve of the Biosphere by the UNESCO and it has a high ecological and cultural worth with villages, especially in the Alpujarra in both the province of Granada as well as in Almería, that have kept their Moorish past and many of the agricultural techniques from the Middle Ages. This is the case of the irrigation system along channels and ditches that cut across JOSÉ Mª LUQUE

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Sierra Nevada

Granada

Si erra Ne va d a is an exc bec aus

Sierra Nevada (Granada)

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ce ption al re fu g e f or f l ora a n d i ts b i o- d i vers i ty se of it s g e og ra p hi c i s ol ati on the mountain sides collecting water from the thawing snow to water small market gardens. Sierra Nevada is an exceptional refuge for flora and its bio-diversity because of its geographic isolation, the steep sides of the ecological slopes and the diversity of its ecological nooks. It has 2.100 catalogued vegetal species, 116 of them are endangered. Places of special interest close to Sierra Nevada: • Mulhacén (3.481 m), Veleta, el Alcazaba and el Cartujo Peaks • Trevenque Needle • Altera glacial lagoons (at 3.146 m.) • The Mulhacén hollow, la Caldera, Corral del Veleta or de Valdeinfierno. • Aguas Verdes and Guarnón and the area of the lagoons (Larga, Caldera, Mosca, Aguas Verdes, Sietre Lagunas and others) • Ski resort of Borreguiles and Pradollano • And of course, all the villages in the Alpujarras in the provinces of Granada and Almería. DOCTOR CANON

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Doñana

Huelva

Doñana World Heritage Site The National park of Doñana was declared by the UNESCO to be a reserve of the Biosphere and a World Heritage Site in recognition of its merits that possibly make it the most significant protected area in Spain. A National Park since 1969 and an area of 50.720 hectares, it is situated in the provinces of Huelva and Seville. Doñana and its district are made up of flat lands with marshes and sand dunes, situated between the ancient terraces of the river Guadalquivir, in the provinces of Huelva and Seville. The absence of relief is one of its characteristics and this orography made it accessible for different civilisations to settle here with their economy based on the wealth of the land, the streams, rivers and the sea; that provided grazing for the cattle, abundant and varied game, as well as good fishing along the extensive coast; there was also honey, salt and other produce from the marshes. ARCHIVE

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Mazagón (Huelva)

Parc National de Do単ana en Almonte (Huelva)

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Doñana

Huelva

At present, the National Park of Doñana keeps its traditions alive, at the same time it is open to new times with the main objective of continuing to be the most important wetlands in Europe. Each year flocks of geese arrive in tens of thousands, establishing their winter home here in the marshes. Large colonies of spoonbills, purple herons, night herons, squacco herons, storks make the tree tops of the old cork oaks into giant birdcages, a unique sight, especially at sunset. The Iberian lynx and the imperial eagle are emblematic species in the National Park of Doñana. For nature lovers, there are companies dedicated to action holidays that organise excursions.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

gón (Huelva) The Caveros well of Roman origins. Nature Interpretation and Reception Centres Acebuche Lagoon Rocina Stream The Coto del Rey y del Faro pine grove The Hinojos marshes The Asperillo cliffs on the coast of Almonte Romería type pilgrimage to Rocío The Marismillas and Matasgordas forests The Towers of el Loro, la Higuera, Carbo-nero Zalabar and San Jacinto The Aviario lagoon The Acebrón palace and pond

Places of special interest close to the Doñana National Park: • The most extensive beach of all the mainland coasts, from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz) to MazaARCHIVE

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PEDRO CARRILLO

Matalasca単as (Huelva)

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Castles

Andalusia Château de La Mota en Alcalá la Real (Jaén)

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The route of the Castles

ndalusia is a land of contrasts, a passing point and coveted jewel since ancient times with numerous fortified towns as well as castles, alcazabas, alcázares and watchtowers dotting its geography. As well as the armies that marched through the lands of Andalucía, the soldiers were followed by monks who also built monasteries and part of the nobility converted the castles into palaces, especially during the Renaissance period. With the arrival of Napoleon’s troops, the abolition of mortmain and with the nobility abandoning castles and palaces, a period of abandon started and the patio of the Vélez Blanco castle was even sold to the Museum of New York. Historically Jaén is the key to Andalucía because of its strategic situation and the number of fortifications were built here especially during the kingdoms of Taifas. These important forts were designed by the Moors and rebuilt by the Christians. This route takes us through Baños de la Encina with its AYTO. ALCALÁ LA REAL

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Castles

Andalusia

Hi s tori ca l ly Jaén i situati

Chateâu de Baños de la Encina (Jaén)

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is t h e ke y t o An d a l u s i a b eca u s e of i ts s trateg i c on and t h e n u mb e r of f o rti fi cati on s castle that controlled the entrance into Andalusia from Castile through the Despeñaperros pass and to the Santa Catalina castle in the city of Jaén that was the residence of the king San Fernando. In Segura de la Sierra, Cazorla, Sabiote and la Iruela there are impressive military forts. Seville has conserved its Alcázar, where Moorish and Christian art blend and there are other examples like the Silver and Gold towers as well as the Cartuja de las Cuevas, it was a residency for a time and Christopher Columbus’ tomb is here. King Fernando the Christian king, was the main impelling force behind the construction of castles and monasteries in this province. Leaving the city of Seville you head for Espartinas, Santiponce (monastery of San Isidoro del Campo), La Algaba with the Torre de los Guzmanes tower and continuing until you reach Cazalla de la Sierra. There is a second itinerary that leaves Carmona with the remains of the Roman and Moorish defensives, DIPUTACIÓN DE JAÉN

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Castles

Andalusia

Cá d i z a n d M álaga we

Chateâu de Otíñar (Jaén)

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ere l an ds o n the f ron ti e r a n d con s e q u e n tl y h ea vily f o r ti f i e d and goes to Alcalá de Guadaíra and Utrera, with three splendid castles in the countryside Los Molares, Las Aguzaderas and the Cote castles, passing through Montellano. The marks on the places related to Christopher Columbus are unmistakable, especially in La Rábida with its small Franciscan convent: Moguer and its Santa Clara monastery which has been recently restored, is on the same route. You also have to visit Niebla and go into rapture before the personality of the Guzmanes castle as well as Lucena del Puerto, the Hacienda de la Luz. There is another route that leaves Aroche and Cortegana through the mountains of Aracena, where there are fortifications that were built to deter any possible attack by Portuguese invaders. You complete this route by visiting Almonáster, Cumbres Mayores and Santa Olalla with its castle. Cádiz and Málaga were lands on the frontier and consequently heavily fortified. There is a route that sets off from the Medieval image of the village of Olvera with the ruins of its castle, JOSÉ JIMÉNEZ GARRIDO

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Castles

Andalusia

I n C贸rd oba yo u ca Som e of the castle

Chate芒u de Luque (C贸rdoba)

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an see t h e in t e n s e p o w e r of th e n ob l e es tates . es and palac e s a re i n t he h a n d s of th e n ob i l i ty you continue on to Ronda that has conserved some parts of its walls. The castles of Atajate and Benaladid are cemeteries today, the bastions of Jimena and Castellar de la Frontera have been conserved, the Almoraima convent is in this municipality, built in the sixteenth century and occupied by the Mercedarians. And in Tarifa, at the end of this route, the impressive castle of Guzmán el Bueno (eleventh century) that recalls the legendary heroic deed of the knight who preferred to lose his son rather than surrender to the Moors. In Córdoba you can see the intense power and impetus of the noble estates, this is such that some of the castles and palaces are in the hands of the nobility, like the Almodóvar castle situated on the banks of the river Guadalquivir, with its eight defiant towers. Continue on to the city of Córdoba (monastery of San Jerónimo, Alcázar de los Reyes Católicos, Torre de la Calahorra) and then to Espiel and Bélmez with the rocky castle and then on to the magnificent forts at Belalcázar. ARCHIVE

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Action Tourism

Andalusia

Rivera de Huesna. VĂa Verde Sierra Norte de Sevilla

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Walking

alking is an ideal way of coming in contact with nature. There are routes for all ages and different degrees of difficulty. The inland nature parks and the nature reserves have very attractive itineraries. Walking as well as cycling is more and more popular along some of the ancient train lines no longer in use.

re are also routes in the Alpujarra in Granada, “white trekking” with snow shoes. In fact, Andalucía offers a wide network of routes in its promotions of inland areas through exuberant and attractive landscapes that put you in contact with the flora in the mountain villages or the varied fauna that lives in the mountains and nature parks.

Rights of way have been recovered, there are riverbeds and extensive sand dunes near the beaches, all Mountaineering excellent walking, like the area Andalusia is very mountainous and surrounding the Doñahome to the highest peaks na National Park, on mainland Spain, Mulor through the hacén and el Veleta marshes at the in Sierra Nevada in estuary of the Granada. There is Guadalquivir an excellent netriver. In Málawork of parador ga there are hotels, youth marked walks hostels, mouthrough the ntain shelters Torcal in Anteand places where quera and the you can camp wild ancient routes in the mountains, through villages in mythical places like the Axarquía in the prothe Sierra Morena, the Sierra Nevada (Granada) vince of Málaga, like the Bética mountain chain, JUANPOL.COM ones that leaves Torrox, Cazorla, Segura y Las down to Frigiliana and on Villas, the mountains of to Nerja and then ascends up the Grazalema in Cádiz and Los Alcorriver Chillar. nocales, not forgetting the Picos de Aroche and Sierra de Aracena In Cazorla there is the famous track in Huelva. As well as the Sierra de named after Félix Rodríguez de la Filabres in Tabernas (Almería) or the Fuente, in honour of this eminent Gaitanes Gorge (Málaga) where as naturalist, along 16 kilometres well as mountaineering there are through beautiful countryside. The- ideal crags for rock climbing. ARCHIVE

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Action Tourism

Andalusia Río Borosa. Cazorla (Jaén)

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Horse trekking

he horse is always present in the history and culture of Andalucía and it is a symbol that identifies Andalusia. The horse has played a main role in historic feats and it is an important sports and leisure complement today. The horse offers several holiday options and discovering them in the heart of nature is one of the passionate tourist offers in Andalucía. Many of the fairs and romería type pilgrimages that are celebrated in Andalucía include the horse as one of the primordial elements. There is a simple option and perhaps one of the most gratifying: to go on a horse trek; that is ride through nature areas on a few days’ trek to discover the provocative beauty, visit villages where the pace of life is slow like in times gone by and experience traditions that help you to get to know Andalusia. You can also take riding lessons. There are many Andalusian cortijos type farms converted into rural accommodation the offer the chance of spending a few days with monitors showing you how to ride, it is a sport but also an art. ARCHIVE

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Intermediate Cities

Andalusia

Medium-Sized Cities in the Centre of Andalusia

ntequera, right in the heart of Andalucía, is known as the city of white Gongorine churches to use the words of Gerardo Diego, a monumental town with outstanding monuments like the Alcazaba, the Coll-egiate church of Santa María la Mayor, the convent of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios and the Giants’ Arch. From the Collegiate you can look down on the town with its many bell-gable church towers cutting the skyline. Archidona is not only famous for its plaza Ochavada (eighteenth century) but also for its rich past when different civilisations and cultures settled in the town, thanks to its privileged geographic position. Declared a Artistic Historic Complez, its Punic-Roman castle stands out among its monuments, converted into the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Grace, together with the Santo Domingo convent from the sixteenth century and the convent of Jesús and Mary from the same date. Osuna is an artistic, historic and monumental jewel. Part of the Route of Washington Irving from the Andalusí Legacy, it is a reference point for Torcal de Antequera (Málaga)

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