A brief Study on wabi Saabi- Impact on Fashion Industry

Wesleyan Journal of Research, Vol 14 No 01 (January 2021)

ISSN – 0975-1386 Research article: (Fashion)

A BRIEF STUDY ON WABI SABI: IMPACT ON FASHION INDUSTRY Ms. Devika Saini Fashion Designer & Stylist Ms.Twinkle Rastogi T.A ASF&DT AUMP Ms. Shweta Singh Asst. Prof ASFD&T, AUMP

ABSTRACT This paper puts forward the relationship between fashion and wabi sabi, possible ways to adapt its principles in fashion and lifestyle. The philosophy of wabi sabi founded on the metaphysics of Buddhism, questioning the idea of beauty and art, and blurring the distinction between art and life as well as personal and professional. There is a growing trend of perfectionism, materialism, symmetry, judgment instead of acceptance or appreciation. Fashion is not about just garment or trend, fashion is not about the end result but more than that. People are running after the results and get anxious if there is any gap between their expectations and the actual result. With fashion being one of the important parts of everybody’s life consciously or subconsciously, whether they realize it or not or whether they accept it or not. In the world of fast fashion, there is a need to simplify the method in which designs are made. This research paper can inspire how to live by the process and how can it be implemented in our lives. The purpose of this research paper is to highlight the reflection of nature on the life itself. This paper will teach you to find more joy and inspiration throughout your perfectly imperfect life. There is no single perfect career path. There is only the one that we are constructing as we go.

KEYWORDS  Wabi Sabi - Process  Balance - Nature  Imperfection - Lifestyle  Fashion - Materialism Article History *Received: 02/01/2021; Accepted: 18/01/2021 Corresponding author: Ms. Shweta Singh INTRODUCTION Wabi sabi is fundamental to the aesthetic sense and gentle nature of Japanese people. It is a world view that guides the way they experience life, although rarely discussed. Wabi sabi is a fascinating enigma, which promises to whisper potent wisdom to those who slow down enough to investigate, and approach with an open heart. Wabi sabi goes much deeper than we are led to believe. People can revel, rejuvenate, restyle, define, declutter, detox. In the daily hustle- bustle of life people were feeling disconnected from nature and themselves. They [261]

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need to slow down themselves and experience, think, see and feel what matters to them, motivates them, instead of judging and making an opinion and underestimate themselves but they should appreciate the beauty of life. When everyone’s life has slowed down because of Covid’19 pandemic, people around the globe have got much needed time to spend with their loved ones and do what matters to them. They are connecting with nature. When people out there following social distancing to save themselves it certainly has helped nature to restore itself. Now more than horns of the vehicles and people’s chatter and chaos of the street we get to listen morning breeze, birds singing and leaves clapping. Atmosphere is calm, atmosphere is also getting the much-needed time to relax. Wabi sabi can be implemented not just in personal life but in professional life as well.

When the seeds are sown by a gardener, not just the seed but the gardener also goes through the process. Gardeners should not be focused on the end result, i.e. raw fruits and vegetables but should go through the whole germination process. When the seed germinates, gardener is the one who is the happiest. When the vegetables ripe, they are not just eaten but also prepared, cooked, garnished and then served. However, if the seed doesn’t sprout then it is a different experience for the gardener. Just like nature our life is unpredictable too. We will doubt the process, will not get what we planned, or may be how we planned which can cause significant disturbance. There is always a possibility of dip in the graph and it depends on your attitude like what do you want to take from that experience. Failure is where we see both the absolute worst and sometimes the absolute best in both yourself and the people around you. What one would do differently after the failure, however difficult the time was, must strengthen one as a person, builds one’s resolve and change one’s perspective. Just like a mother giving birth to a child, it is an experience for both the individuals. The focus is not just on giving birth to the child, it not just a process of months but it is a lifetime journey for the child and the parent. They all go through different stages of life, different emotions, different experience. They all face ups and downs in their course of life. Embracing each life stage allows them to age with grace (Allcock,2017).

Similarly, in fashion the base should not be the cloth or garment only but the whole process.

The process involves drawing inspiration, developing a concept, exploring different techniques and methods, artisan’s contribution, design and sourcing and material. There is a story behind every design process. Reflection of each and every story is different on each and every individual. Nothing for someone is something for someone else. It offers a detail that invites a sense of wonder.

Autumn season illustrates the beauty of letting go. There comes a season, a situation in one’s life where one should let certain things go, clear the spaces, should prioritize what matters. Clear spaces do not mean that we do not have bigger space or budget or thought of dropping out of life but it can invite a sense of wonder because of minimalism as well. For example Kon Mari method is Japanese consultant Marie Kondo’s minimalism-inspired approach to tackling your stuff category by category rather than room-by-room. It is really about discarding items that lack value and consider which creates a spark in the life. These days we have so many choices, and access to many things we usually shop, grow and consume our credit cards bills in a hurry. Our lives and our cupboards are rapidly becoming over stuffed. Rather than pilling things up we can donate our clothes to needy which we do not need, it will not only de-clutter our wardrobe but will also help the people in need.

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Wesleyan Journal of Research, Vol. 14 No. 01 The overload of the same information, some unnecessary things and some toxic people can create anxiety. It makes situation stressful. De-cluttering negative people is a necessity of everybody’s life. Just like decluttering some activities in our life like checking how much people appreciate the picture which was clicked to post, scrolling through people’s feed who do not even matter to them in real life, jealousy bubbles as they make assumption that they actually live like that. Every time they do this, they miss an unknowable opportunity for connections, serendipity and everyday adventures in their lives, for the mind has gone somewhere the body cannot follow. Someone started a rumor that happiness lies in the accumulation of things, memory, power and status, all the while looking young, pretty and skinny, or young, handsome and strong (Kempton, 2018).

OBJECTIVE How can we implement the 6 principles (Revel, Rejuvenate, Restyle, Define, Declutter, Detox) of wabi sabi in life?

Assessing the benefits of living through the process and learning in the dynamic nature of life instead of focusing on the end result.

Determining the importance of beauty in simplicity, it not only makes the place free from the unnecessary things but the mind as well from the unnecessary thoughts.

Literature Review KINTSUGI

by Tomas Navarro Kintsugi which means “golden repair” is the centuries-old Japanese art of fixing broken pottery with special lacquer dusted with the powdered gold, silver, and platinum. It makes the crack in the pottery to cherish, it makes it look beautiful not dull. Kintsugi was published in April 2018, it has become a well-known therapy metaphor to resilience. Navarro writes, recognizes the “fragility, strength, and beauty” in the repaired object, and he has found the basic principles of close analysis, detailed planning and patient rebuilding.

He says, the most important thing in life is to live, which is not the same thing as to survive.

There is a clear difference between living and surviving. When we live, everything is more intense; colours are brighter, kisses are full of passion and our bodies are moved with each emotion. Living is reserved for the brave, because it involves making decisions, overcoming complacency, and actively seeking our development and growth. When we live intensely, we run more risks and we become more fragile.

This book consists of four parts. Part one talks about adversity and pain, what hurts, why you and how do we react when faced with adversity and if we can build the life or not. Part two guides towards repairing. Picking up the pieces, analysing situation and learn from what has happened. It guides you to connect with your emotional strength, repair what is broken and understanding how to make your scars beautiful. Part three helps to learn through people’s experiences. It helps to repair self-esteem which in turn helps to repair life, repair love, repair [263]

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home and repair joy. Part four is the conclusion, sums up by explaining the art of giving oneself a new opportunity.

Everyone faces difficulties in life, but it is the way in which difficulties should be approached, wounds should be healed, is the key. Scars should not be concealed as they are the strength, they are the experience, they remind how strong one can be. Kintsugi which translates as “golden joinery” is the lifestyle which can transform people’s lives. Kintsugi tells how happiness can be found again. It gives people a rebirth, it helps people to heal, it helps people to accept. Life is full of ups and downs and it is of utmost important for every each and every individual to understand and know how to deal with difficult situations and kintsugi is one such book that helps people. It changes the perspective of every situation and lesson an individual takes from every difficulty (Navarro 2018).

WABI SABI

By Beth Kempton Wabi sabi is centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection, in traditional Japanese aesthetics. It describes things which are impermanent, imperfect and incomplete as beautiful. In 2018 WABI SABI , JAPANESE WISDOM FOR A PERFECTLY IMPERFECT LIFE was published not just for readers but for writers, artists, designers, poets and philosopher as well. This book provides a whole new way of looking at world, at life which is inspired by centuries. It gives the brief description of history in order to understand the beginning of wabi sabi. Once the sense of origin of wabi sabi is understood, characteristics are explored and language is given to think and talk about it. It also talks about its application in today’s world and people’s life.

The book is definitive guide to applying the principles of wabi sabi to transform every area of life and finding happiness right where the one is (Kempton, 2018).

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY This research paper influences the process of life as well as fashion and provides an opportunity to consider the benefits and limitations of various principles of wabi sabi to the reader. This research paper is dependent on primary data like survey of 100 people which aims to find out whether people believe in the process or the end result only and how covid’19 has impacted their life. Primary data also includes inspiration drawn from personal experiences and secondary data like Novels; Wabi sabi by Beth Kempton and Kintsugi by Tomas Navarro, articles by Business of fashion and Slow and Steady by Ekta Malik in EYE, The Sunday Express Magazine of March15, 2020 and various other sources.

Qualitive method is used to analyze the survey to understand the quality of lived experiences of individuals, which numerically cannot be reduced. The survey is designed to get qualified opinions and understand deeper understanding of people’s knowledge about wabi sabi and principles.

WABI SABI AND FASHION Wabi Sabi is way of life so is fashion. Wabi Sabi can be applied in all aspect of our life. If we [264]

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pay attention, we will find many examples around us. Wanting to achieve perfection in life is nothing less than an illusion and running after perfection is nothing less than vain. What is essence of life? Appreciating the way things are, imperfect.

If your taste is hade- showy, liberal, flashy and gaudy or iki-chic, stylish, wordy and sophisticated. The appearance of being effortlessly cool. lively or vitality then wabisabiesque style can add little calm and serenity and help you reconnect with nature.

If your taste is Shibui, refers to particular aesthetic of simple, subtle and unobtrusive beauty.

The word is more complex, suggesting quietness, depth, simplicity and serenity. Shibui has come closer to quietly cool. It suggests hint of dusty accent color and with some neutrals, wabisabisque style is likely a natural fit for you, if not already on your radar, and can bring a little more character and story.

If your taste is jimi, literally means ‘earth taste’- sober, conservative, unobtrusive. Neutral and grey tones. If patterned, a low contrast all-over plain design, wabisabisque style can add a little warmth and richness (Kempton 2018).

Wabi Sabi inspires us to declutter and use what is necessary. The design principles of wabi-sabi fall into several categories; of course, fine arts like poetry, drama, and literature, have not physical objects, embody these principles in a different way: -

Type Form Texture Beauty Color Simplicity Space Balance Sobriety

TYPE: Wabi sabi often highlights acceptance of naturalness of things and expresses the passage of time so rather than using synthetic material organic materials are used. Hence wood, yarns, clay, wool and stone etc. falls in the acceptable category of materials. They are further not polished or cleaned to appear new rather passage of time is cherished.

FORM: Taking inspiration from nature one can derive a lot of creative ideas. The object is shaped naturally and intentional asymmetry and irregularity. Form is not imposed by human contrivance but subtly intervenes to make the object follow the capabilities and relevant physical characteristics, properties, and propensities of its own nature. Similarly, materials that age such as bare wood, paper and fabric become more interesting as they exhibit changes that can be observed over time.

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TEXTURE: We can draw inspiration from nature for textures which are not necessarily perfect but dull or rustic or broken like woods, stones or plants etc. We are already gifted with beautifully imperfect textures that we can use in our design process.

BEAUTY: Wabi sabi goes much deeper than we have been let to believe flowing into many areas of life infused with beauty, connected with nature and built around what really matters to us.

Beauty is very subjective, what you feel what you think then only you can reflect in yourself without expectations.

COLOR: Nature is an unpredictable treasure. Nature itself is an imperfectly beautiful color pallet, according to the mood of nature one can embrace the colors and experiment with their fashion.

SIMPLICITY: Simplicity resembles the true spirit of wabi-sabi. It brings forth the importance and beauty of naturalness of things which can be used while designing.

SPACE: By changing perspective about the situation we can find our space instead of cribbing or fretting. Empty space conveys the nature of universe.

BALANCE: The regularity, uniformity and prescription contrived by the artist are secondary to the requirement to reflect a natural and unforced appearance to the object and its context.

SOBERIETY: The artist approaches creative work with humility, sincerity, and a clarification of motives. Bad motives poison art and inevitably reveal themselves in the work. Sobriety adds a sense of perspective to the experience of impermanence (Wabi and Sabi: The Aesthetics of Solitude - Articles - House of Solitude - Hermitary, 2004).

ANALYSIS

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fig.1 Out of 104 responses major population belongs to the age group of 20 -24 years.

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Wesleyan Journal of Research, Vol. 14 No. 01 fig.2It was found out that out of 104 only 45 (43.3%) respondents knew about Wabi Sabi and 45 respondents (43.3%) did not know about Wabi Sabi and 14 respondents (13.5%) did not sure.

fig.3- It was found out only 3 respondents did think that nature plays an important role in our personal and professional life and out of 104 respondents 101 (97.1%) think it plays an important role.

fig.4- Most of the respondents believe in beauty and simplicity whereas 4 respondents which is (3.8%) believe in extravagance and 9 (8.7%) respondents believe in none.

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fig.5- 18 (17.3%) completely believe that they do compare their imperfection whereas 22 (20.2%) believe that they do not. 66 (62.5%) respondents tend to compare imperfection sometimes. fig.6- 35 people (33.7%) are not sure whether decluttering is important for their mind and space or not. 62 (59.6%) think that it is important and 7 out of 104 (6.7%) believe that it does not.

fig.7- Delight, rejuvenate, restyle, detoxanddeclutterareprinciplesofwabisabi. Outof 104 respondents surveyed about the impact of these principles in their life, on average 67.2 respondents believe that these 5 principles have impact in their life. On average only 7.2 respondents believe that these principles do not have any impact and on average 29.6 respondents are indifferent about impact of these principles in their lives.

fig.8- 76 respondents (73.1%) believe in the whole process and 28 (26.9%) respondents focus on the end result.

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fig.9- 56 (53.8%) respondents think that beauty in imperfection is often seen in fashion industry 33 (31.7%) respondents not sure beauty in imperfection is seen and 15 (14.4%) respondent do not believe.

fig.10- 16 (15.4%) respondents do not think that they are happy with their life or career whereas 27 (26%) respondents have accepted the way it is. 61 (58.7%) respondents are happy and following their passion.

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fig.11- 50 (48.1%) respondents think that wabi sabi can bring changes to fashion industry during the present scenario of Covid19. 46 respondents (44.2%) think that it can or it cannot, they are not sure what will be the changes post this pandemic. 7 respondents (6.7%) chose none of these.

fig.12- 53 (51%) respondents are not sure whether wabi sabi can bring changes to our personal and professional life. 46(44.2%) respondents believe that it does and 5 (4.8%) believe that it does not.

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fig.13- Because of current pandemic, life has come on a pause and about 67 (64.4%) respondents believe that the slow- down situation has made their life in a positive way. 9 (8.7%) respondents think that it will not have a positive change and 28 (26.9%) are not sure.

fig.14- 65 respondents (62.5%) relate with simplifying and beautifying. 33 respondents (33.7%) relate to cherishing the moments. 51 respondents (49%) relate to living with nature. 42 respondents (40.4%) relate with acceptance and letting go and 26 (25%) with decluttering.

CONCLUSION Fashion is fast paced calendar. This industry is chosen by people because of its creativity, craft and beauty. Over the time the industry has dramatically accelerated and resulted in limited innovation and a lot of wastage not just of clothes but of creative potential as well. Industry has become so competitive that it has forgotten its roots, inspiration and reason to be a part of this industry. In this hustle-bustle of the industry their focus is on selling the product at a particular price rather than customer needs and comfort.

All of us have a creative side inbuilt within us and we should extract the maximum advantage out of it. This pandemic has given a pause to everything and has given people enough time to channelize their creativity and ponder upon their thoughts in a manner which will benefit them and the industry. From being competitive they should become closer in thought and action. Rather than falling prey on which commercialization can just pounce do what process inspires to do.

Focus from materialistic and unwanted things designers are now focusing on the customer needs, and they should adopt sustainable methods. They should start questioning their strategies. Even the needs of customers will be changed, now they want to know about the quality of the cloth, how long that cloth is going to last and how comfortable the cloth is. We all observe imperfections but seldom appreciate and look things with a different perspective like beauty in imperfections.

This pandemic is a lesson of transiency of things and people; therefore, people should be grateful for everything they have at this moment instead of judging and criticizing others.

RECOMMENDATION [273]

Wesleyan Journal of Research, Vol. 14 No. 01 This project witnessed two different worlds. In the world where people were surviving by running after money to fulfill their wants, and another world where people are living with their loved ones and feeling nature after things have slowed down. In this whole new world, wabi sabi is an inspiration for everyone to look things with a new perspective and abandon themselves in a process.

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