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FEATURES 10 TOP REASONS FISH GO TIGHT LIPPED 42 WHEN SPRING HAS SPRUNG 14 GEOGRAPHICAL WHITETAIL HIDEOUTS 46 QUALITIES OF A MARKSMEN FOR WALLEYES 18 IOWA’S WATER TRAILS OVER THE WEEDS 50 TROLLING 22 TIME FOR BIG GILLS WHITETAILS 365: HUNTING AND HABITAT TAKING A LONG-LASTING MEMORY 54 EQUIPMENT ON A BUDGET 26 TO REDUCE THE PRICE 30 KEYS TO TROPHY RIVER CATS 58 10PERWAYS POUND 34 2018 NEW ARCHERY GEAR DEPARTMENTS 38 TROPHY ROOM 6 PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT CORNER SPORTSMAN INTERACTIVE 62 GUNDOG 8 IOWA IOWA COOKBOOK MOON PHASES/ 64 9 SUNRISE-SUNSET FISHING IOWA AROUND THE STATE 66 29 By Todd Reed
By Ben Leal
By Jason Smith
By Joel Johnson
By Aaron Stonehocker
By Steve Weisman
By Steve Weisman
By Ryan Graden
By Tom Peplinski
By Brad Durick
By Earl Taylor
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By Patrick McKinney
Photos Submitted by Readers
Catfish Recipes By Bob Jensen
ON THE COVER
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Welcome to the July issue of The Iowa Sportsman Magazine! On the cover this month is a photo a big largemouth bass getting lipped by an angler and pulled into the boat for a good Catch and Release picture. Largemouth are one of the most popular fish species here in Iowa due to their abundance, spontaneous aggression, and overall challenge they provide to anglers. 4
The Iowa Sportsman
July 2018
PUBLISHER STATEMENT
THE NEW IOWA SPORTSMAN WEBSITE IS UP! It took some time, but without further ado I can happily announce the brand new Iowa Sportsman website has been unveiled! While we never really had an issue with what the old site, as it was always a popular gathering place for Iowa sportsmen, it had become antiquated (only in the digital world can something 18 years old to be considered an antique) with its old software and capabilities. Not to mention the SPAM’ers keyed in on the archaic platform and bombarded the website with unwanted information, making it a nightmare to operate and use daily. So we finally made the call and went forward with plans on a brand new website for our audience. I am not going to lie, it wasn’t nearly as easy as I thought it was going to be. I was a little naive in thinking that a professionally constructed website can be done easily. Especially when we wanted to transfer a lot of archived info from the old platform to the new platform. Nevertheless, with a lot of time and hard work both from the Iowa Sportsman staff and our developers, Iowa Web Spec, we are very happy with how things turned out. We are still working on a few things, as with anything new in the digital world there are some bugs being ironed out, but the website is up and running! The thing we are most excited about is the capabilities the new site will give us in providing our audience content. Before all of our media outlets (the magazine, FB, website, and newsletter) were their own separate products. Which limited us in what we could do with each one. Now with a new website we can connect all of those products and the content they provide together. What does that mean? Quite simply it means we can now offer our readers, users, and audience more information in more ways. The magazine can point to the website, the website can point to Facebook, and vice versa for all. It allows us to touch each and every one of our communities and unite them. Ultimately making for a much more enjoyable experience for you. Not to mention the new site is responsive to mobile platforms, such as tablets and smart phones. A feature that makes it more user friendly to all. While the new capabilities are wonderful, we couldn’t get rid of what made our website what it was. Everyone will be happy to hear that the forums survived and were brought over to the new site. Albeit in a much more modern and user friendly form….you can actually post pictures now without having to have a 3rd party to host them! It is the little things in life isn’t it?! When you get a chance stop on over to the new website and take it for a test drive. In the meantime be on the lookout for a much more robust content producing system from us at The Iowa Sportsman! We hope you enjoy!
TWIN RIVERS MEDIA, LLC. 1517 3rd Avenue NW Fort Dodge, Iowa 50501 877-424-4594
VOLUME 16 • NUMBER 7 • JULY 2018
Gale W. McKinney II, President & CEO Patrick McKinney, Publisher Audra McKinney, VP of Finance Dustin Hector, VP of Sales Aaron McKinney, Field Editor Brandon Peterson, Art Director/Graphic Designer Teri Marsh, Graphic Designer Dawn Busse, Office Manager Shawna Nelson, Circulation Manager
OUTDOOR MARKETING SPECIALISTS
Joyce Kenney - joyce@twinriversmedia.com Ed Juncker - ed@twinriversmedia.com Kendra Sassman - kendra@twinriversmedia.com
SUBSCRIPTION SALES
Shawna Nelson - shawna@twinriversmedia.com
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Tom Peplinski, Todd Reed, Joel Johnson, Ryan Graden, Earl Taylor, Jason Smith, Ben Leal, Steve Weisman, Brad Durick, and Bob Jensen.
The information and advertising set forth herein has been obtained from sources believed to be reliable and compiled with great care. Twin Rivers Media, LLC. however, does not warrant complete accuracy of such information and assumes no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use thereof or reliance thereon. Our advertisers are solely responsible for the content of their respective advertisements appearing in this publication, and Publisher shall not be responsible or liable in any manner for inaccuracies, false statements or any material in such advertisement infringing upon the intellectual rights of others. Publisher reserves the right to reject or cancel any advertisement or space reservation at any time without notice. Publisher shall not be liable for any costs or damages if for any reason it fails to publish an advertisement. This publication may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopied, recorded or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Copyright © 2018 All rights reserved.
Patrick McKinney
@TheIowaSportsmanMagazine
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The Iowa Sportsman
The Iowa Sportsman was awarded the Niche Magazine Award for best consumer magazine in the nation!
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INTERACTIVE PAGE
IOWA SPORTSMAN ONLINE POLL
WHAT AM I
HAVE YOU EVER TRIED FLY-FISHING? Yes No
27% 73% 104 votes
CAN YOU GUESS THE OBJECT IN THE PHOTO?
Please send your guesses to The Iowa Sportsman at 1597 3rd Ave. NW Fort Dodge, IA 50501 or email to info@twinriversmedia.com. Answer will be given in the following month on the interactive page.
WHAT AM I WINNER
The winner of last month’s “What Am I” was Megan Sheeker. The answer was: a spark plug.
Like us on Facebook! @ theiowasportsmanmagazine
FIND THE MISSING ANTLER We need your help readers! The antler in The Iowa Sportsman logo has come off and we need your help to bring it back! This antler could be anywhere, but most likely it will be hiding in a photo, so it will not be easily found. If you find the missing antler in this month’s The Iowa Sportsman magazine, send in your guesses via email to info@twinriversmedia. com or by mail with the page number and a brief description of where the antler is found. A reader with the first correct answer will be listed in next month’s magazine. Good luck! The antler last month was located on page 51.
THE WINNER OF THE JUNE ISSUE WAS DOUG FOSTER
PHOTO HUNT: CAN YOU FIND THE 12 DIFFERENCES ON THIS PHOTO?
Answers: Handle of tool is green, bottom left staplers handle, bolt missing on pliers, needle nose handle is brighter green, red handle grip hole is missing, orange handled tool has piece missing from handle, piece of paper is purple, top right corner utility knife is green, center right piece of metal has a hole in it, dark green pliers handle is missing, top left screwdriver is missing, chunk is missing from hammer handle.
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MOON PHASES
June 2018 17 Visible: 19%
18 Visible: 29%
19 Visible: 40%
20 Visible: 51% 21 Visible: 62%
22 Visible: 72% 23 Visible: 81%
First Quarter Sunrise: 5:39 AM Sunset: 8:51 PM
24 Visible: 88%
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25 Visible: 94%
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27 Visible: 100% 28 Visible: 100% 29 Visible: 99% 30 Visible: 96% Full Moon
Sunrise: 5:41 AM Sunset: 8:52 PM
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5 Visible: 59%
6 Visible: 49%
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July 2018 1 Visible: 91%
2 Visible: 85%
3 Visible: 77%
4 Visible: 68%
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Visible: 38%
Last Quarter Sunrise: 5:44 AM Sunset: 8:52 PM
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8 Visible: 28%
9 Visible: 19%
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10 Visible: 11%
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11 Visible: 5%
12 Visible: 1%
13 Visible: 1%
14 Visible: 3%
New Moon Sunrise: 5:48 AM Sunset: 8:50 PM
15 Visible: 9%
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16 Visible: 17%
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17 Visible: 26%
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18 Visible: 36% 19 Visible: 47%
Sunrise: 5:51 AM Sunset: 8:48 PM
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20 Visible: 58% 21 Visible: 67%
First Quarter Sunrise: 5:56 AM Sunset: 8:44 PM
Sunrise: 5:53 AM Sunset: 8:46 PM
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22 Visible: 76%
23 Visible: 84%
24 Visible: 91%
25 Visible: 96% 26 Visible: 99%
Sunrise: 5:57 AM Sunset: 8:43 PM
Sunrise: 5:58 AM Sunset: 8:42 PM
27 Visible: 100% 28 Visible: 100% Full Moon
Sunrise: 5:59 AM Sunset: 8:41 PM
Sunrise: 6:00 AM Sunset: 8:40 PM
Sunrise: 6:01 AM Sunset: 8:39 PM
29 Visible: 98%
30 Visible: 94%
31 Visible: 89%
Sunrise: 6:06 AM Sunset: 8:35 PM
Sunrise: 6:07 AM Sunset: 8:34 PM
Sunrise: 6:08 AM Sunset: 8:32 PM
July 2018
Sunrise: 6:02 AM Sunset: 8:39 PM
Sunrise: 6:03 AM Sunset: 8:38 PM
Sunrise: 6:04 AM Sunset: 8:37 PM
Sunrise: 6:05 AM Sunset: 8:36 PM
TheIowaSportsman.com
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“THE FISH AREN’T BITING”, “I always catch them here”, This bait always works”. We have all said these things before and we have all had bad days out on the water. I am a firm believer that the angler is in charge of their catches about 90% of the time. They choose the lake, location, rod/reel, line, and bait to catch their fish. That other 10% when nothing seems to be working, or no one is catching fish are the days that leave many anglers shaking their head. What went wrong? Why can’t I catch some fish? Where did they go? These are the questions that often get asked when anglers strike out. There are four main reasons that fish of any species seem to disappear or won’t play along on a fishing trip. Mother Nature plays a role in the water clarity and high-pressure systems, human pressure and stubbornness are the top four reasons why we as anglers have bad days on the water. Mother Nature provides us with so much here in Iowa, but she can also turn the tables and take away as she wishes. The first and probably main reason anglers have a poor day of fishing is the current weather patterns, or highpressure systems. The older I get and more observant I get about the weather the more I see this. “Fish bite best when the winds from the west...Fish bite least when the wind is from the East”, yep there is a lot of truth in that old adage. The wind itself has little or nothing to do with fish biting, it is what that wind is doing July 2018
that will affect the fish. When the wind comes from the east or even the northeast it typically means a quick change in the weather, this will play havoc on the
their bait. Smaller baits may still appear worthy of a fish chasing down, while they will ignore larger baits. With the smaller baits it is vital to use a rod that is highly sensitive, I prefer a QuantumPT rod/reel combo in the medium power with a fast action tip. This type of rod will allow you to feel the lightest bite, but enough power to set the hook and battle the biggest of fish. Also, slower moving jigs and live bait will get more bites too, stay away from fast moving baits when possible. Another reason fish will seem to disappear is the water clarity. This occurs in rivers in the matters of minutes but can take several days for lakes to get
WITH THE SMALLER BAITS IT IS VITAL TO USE A ROD THAT IS HIGHLY SENSITIVE, I PREFER A QuantumPT ROD/REEL COMBO IN THE MEDIUM POWER WITH A FAST ACTION TIP. barometer. The barometric pressure affects the world of a fish in a huge way. Any fast change in the barometric pressure will affect fish in a negative way. On the other hand, a west or south wind will bring in weather patterns that will gradually change the barometric pressure, altering little change in fish behavior. What to do: When anglers are faced with a rapid barometric pressure swing they should first change the size of
affected. Heavy downpours can muddy up the water and in turn have the fish acting negative. Their sense of sight has been decreased immensely and their overall reaction to those things around them has decreased as well. This will cause fish to seem inactive or “disappear” from the day or weekend before you were catching them. If they can’t see, they can’t chase down food and eat at the same rate hey were just a day or so ago. TheIowaSportsman.com
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TOP REASONS FISH GO TIGHT LIPPED
WHAT TO DO:
When anglers are faced with muddy waters they must adapt as anglers. The first thing would be to search out cleaner water. In larger river systems or lakes this can be done by looking to see where feeder creeks are coming into the lake and where the current is traveling on the larger river systems. In smaller lakes this can be much more difficult, a lake can turn to mud over night no matter where you go on the lake, perhaps another lake in the area with a smaller watershed is worth a visit. If you are still faced with muddy water then your bait selection needs to change. Bright colored lures, rattles on plastic baits and jigs, and large blades on spinners will help you counter the muddy water syndrome. The third reason why fish may not be in the mood to greet you is fishing pressure. This is due to many people using the lake or river and causing distress on the fish’s natural habitat. Large reservoirs and rivers can see a lot of boat traffic, this will turn fish off. Too many boats in an area of a lake or small river can result in the same negativity. These circumstances are really out of the anglers’ control, but they will affect how fish are feeding. Imagine yourself as a fish, you have seen a hundred boats, millions of depth finder “pings”, twohundred thirteen 1/16th oz pink jigheads with a 2-inch minnow this month...you are going to catch onto things. Fishing pressure will and can turn fish negative.
WHAT TO DO:
This is the time of year when crowded lakes are best to be ignored. Smaller bodies of water, small rivers that do not receive the pressure are worth a look to improve your daily catch. 12
The Iowa Sportsman
The final reason why fish go tight-lipped has nothing to do with the fish, it is all about the angler. Stubbornness is a cruel thing, and can ruin a day of fishing just as quickly as a huge cold front. The inability to change things up as an angler is detrimental to your success on the water. We all have our favorite baits; you won’t find me bass fishing without a Texas-rigged Hot Rod Baits Tube tied on. It has done me well in the past under a lot of different situations, but it is not 100% effective. The same bait/ lure on the same body water will not work every time.
WHAT TO DO:
We all need to get out of stubborn ways and try different baits, or different colors. When things aren’t what they used to be, change, change and then change again. If those three changes don’t work, then blame it on Mother Nature! Fishing is not a math equation; sometimes there is just not an answer, or at least not an easy answer. Fishing is a lot like algebra though, there are many variables that anglers have to take into consideration when choosing a body of water to fish, what baits/lures to use and finally where exactly to make that cast. Some days the equation is easy, but some days nothing adds up, hopefully this article will help you solve the next tough day out on the water with a passing grade!
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IT’S LATE-SEPTEMBER. You’ve got all of your hunting gear organized and ready to go. Your clothes are clean and scent free, and your boots are well broken in and waterproofed. You’ve spent hours upon hours dialing in your bow and honing your shooting skills through countless sessions of off-season practice. Tags have been purchased. Stands have been hung. Trail cameras have been set and checked. Deer have been located and patterned. You’re just waiting for opening day. Then you receive ‘THE CALL’. For whatever reason, you just lost permission to hunt land that you’ve hunted for years. Your world has been thrown into an absolute tailspin. You’re scrambling to find new land and realize that no matter where you end up, you will essentially be going in blind. There’s no time to run pre-season trail cameras and no time to do any type of thorough pre-season scouting. You’re going to be hard pressed to get stands hung, and probably won’t hang as many as you’re used to having access to. Although a few details may vary, this general scenario plays out frequently. When it does, veteran and novice deer hunters alike find themselves at the same starting point. You’re both faced with the same main challenges to overcome in order to have a successful season. Once you’ve obtained access to new hunting land, you’ve got to figure out where the deer are (or should be), select your stand locations and hang them, and figure out how to get to and from your
July 2018
stands without spooking deer. In my opinion, nothing beats actual scouting by physically walking timbers and draws when it comes to learning the lay of the land, but sometimes, such as in this case, that’s just not possible. Most of us don’t have access to a helicopter or drone to give us a bird’s eye view of our hunting
and conservational organization websites are all good places to snag quality aerial shots / maps of hunting land and surrounding properties. You can use the aerial shots to spot possible pinch points, water and food sources, bedding areas, travel routes, etc. Some aerial maps mark property lines as well. This comes in very handy when fence lines aren’t maintained or are completely non-existent. If hunting public land, some aerial maps also include information about the specific area like park boundary lines, vehicle parking, what types of game animals are present, and what activities are allowed during what date ranges. I personally use aerial shots constantly from pre-season planning, to in-the-field hunting, and post season marking and
YOU CAN USE THE AERIAL SHOTS TO SPOT POSSIBLE PINCH POINTS, WATER AND FOOD SOURCES, BEDDING AREAS, TRAVEL ROUTES, ETC. SOME AERIAL MAPS MARK PROPERTY LINES AS WELL. terrain, but most of us have access to the internet and a handheld viewing device or a printer. Aerial photographs can be obtained for free at different websites, and many by simply entering an address or geographical coordinates. In my opinion, they are invaluable. Google Maps, County Assessor Websites, and County / State governmental agencies
note recording. I’ve been known to carry laminated paper copies and have had buddies rib me about it, but you’d be surprised how many rural areas have poor or no cellular service. That, and non-laminated paper maps don’t stand up well to rain, sweat, friction of being carried in a pocket or a bag, and especially not a combination of all three. So, hunting season is about to start and
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GEOGRAPHICAL WHITETAIL HIDEOUTS AND TRAVEL CORRIDORS (PART 1) you’ve been lucky enough to obtain new land to hunt. You’ve located and are reviewing aerial photographs of your new land in an attempt to determine possible stand locations. If you have access to recent high quality aerial shots, taken in the winter months, (preferably without leaves on the trees and ground vegetation), zoom WAY in and tediously pick through them, inch-by-inch. With good resolution photographs, you can actually pick out high traffic deer trails. When I find these, I start humming, “I’ve got a Golden Ticket.”, to myself. Then look along those trails for good spots to hang your stands within twenty yards of that ‘Deer Highway’. Iowa, in general, is relatively flat and is vastly covered in farm fields with small segments of sporadic timbers scattered throughout. Food and water are rarely in short supply or far away. With these things in mind, I don’t tend to give as much importance to food and water availability when selecting my stand locations. Unless we have a horrific winter, Iowa deer would have to try really hard to starve to death or die from dehydration. Obviously, field edges and creek bottoms are great places to setup, but I seldom select one field edge or creek bottom over another due to what is planted, (usually corn, more corn, even more corn, or beans), or the quantity of water in a creek. When setting up on a field edge or creek bottom, or really any definitive separation line between timber or thick ground cover and open ground, try to target a few specific things. Initially, look around for trails that deer use for transitioning between the cover and the open space. If you find a good, well used deer trail, look for a sturdy tree to hang your stand on within twenty yards on either side of the trail, along the edge of the timber. When hunting new land, I believe that this type of stand location maximizes your chances of seeing and having deer within shooting range. The trail is a good indication that this is a natural travel corridor for deer. No matter what direction the deer come from within the timber, there’s a good chance that they will funnel down to that trail when transitioning into the open space. Placing your stand on the edge of the timber also allows you to freely observe deer activity within the open area. There’s a good chance that deer will funnel down to the trail when transitioning from the open space to the timber as well. An added advantage of a timber edge stand location like this is that you can easily travel to and from your stand without walking through the timber and spooking unseen deer in the process. Another good timber edge stand location is out on the end of a finger or point. These fingers usually have small ravines running 16
The Iowa Sportsman
down the center of them. Deer transitioning out of a timber will often follow these ravines right out to the tip of the finger before exiting. Whenever possible, deer also choose to hug any type of structure or cover over traveling across open ground. Deer traveling along the edge of the timber often walk to the tip of a finger sticking out into the open area, prior to fully emerging into the open. An open space surrounded by timbers with fingers narrowing the open gap between the timbers can be especially good spots to place stands. Deer traveling between timbers will choose to shoot that small gap over traveling across wide open ground. Overgrown fence lines connecting timbers can also be really good stand locations for this same reason. I tend to refer to these types of stand locations as ‘pinch points’, because traveling deer are pinched down to a narrow path of travel that is easily identifiable by geographical features and structure. Mature bucks can, and often do, act differently from does, yearlings and young bucks. If you’re specifically targeting more mature bucks, there is another timber edge stand location that may not get the amount of overall deer traffic, but can produce bigger, more mature bucks. Older, smarter bucks like to exit timber edges at a low point versus a high point. This allows them to get a better smell of what’s already in and along the edges of the open area, due to the way winds can swirl and drop along the edge of timber lines. This is partially due to how atmospheric thermals dynamics and air turbulence (e.g. aerodynamics and drag) work. Cagey old bucks will walk to the edge of the timber at these low points and stand for long periods of time, sniffing the air and looking into the open area, before deciding to exit the timber. Often these low points will be an inside corner of the timber. Setting a timber edge stand within twenty yards of these low points can produce nicely. Again, all of the stand location suggestions that have already been discussed can be initially identified by reviewing aerial photographs. This practice will save you time and allow you to scout without spooking deer. Obviously, things can look entirely different once you actually put boots on the property, but at least you’re going in with an initial tentative plan of action. Selecting deep timber stand locations are a little tougher, as they are difficult to initially identify by reviewing aerial photographs. Unless you can pick out deep timber ‘Deer Highways’ from the aerial shots, properly selecting these usually requires physical scouting on your part. I will further discuss this in Part 2.
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GROWING UP, my little brother and I spent a lot of time exploring random creeks. We used to day dream about how cool it would be to load up a tent and some camping gear, and travel along these winding waterways to see what adventure might unfold. Today, I love to paddle around some of Iowa’s larger waterholes and rivers, mostly for the great fishing, but also to see some of Iowa’s less agricultural, and more historical side. Kind of neat, all these years later I am still seeing what adventure will unfold around the next bend. From the Loess Hills formation along our Western border, the Missouri River, to the North Eastern Iowa bluff country. Iowa has three major geography types and ironically enough they are divided nearly perfectly by the two major interstates: I-80 for a north/ south divider, and I-35 for a North East/ North West divider. Each quadrant has a unique landscape with features that were heavily influenced by Iowa’s waterways and glacial drift during the Ice Age. There are parts of Iowa that can’t be truly experienced from a gravel road overlooking miles of corn and soybean fields. Lucky for the Iowa Sportsman, Iowa has more than 30 water trails that wind through all parts of the state, providing a scenic tour through Iowa’s landscape and history. I will 18
The Iowa Sportsman
touch on my favorite aquatic highways in each region that are sure to provide a unique adventure for every type of paddler. NW Iowa: This part of the state is flat (except for the Loess Hills formations) and was heavily carved by glaciers that
chain of lakes was formed by heavy indents or “potholes” where glaciers settled and melted, creating some of the most unique natural lakes in the country. West Okoboji is one of 3 blue water lakes in the world, where the water is supplied through underground springs rather than rain runoff which causes most of Iowa’s waters to have that muddy look. What makes this waterway more unique is that three of Iowa’s State Parks are located on the shores of this interconnected chain of lakes. This provides ample public access to the waterway for your paddling adventure. NE Iowa: This portion of the state is called the “driftless” region due to the lack of glacial influence. This left the landscape
THE CEDAR AND WAPSIPINICON RIVERS PARALLEL EACH OTHER AS THEY FLOW FROM SOUTHERN MINNESOTA ALL THE WAY TO THE MISSISSIPPI IN SCOTT AND MUSCATINE COUNTIES. are responsible for Iowa’s fertile soil and the regions irregular hills of glacial and wind deposits. This area is home to Iowa’s “great or glacial” lakes: Spirit, East and West Okoboji, and Silver lakes. This
covered with some of the most beautiful scenery to be had in the Hawkeye state. Trout streams branch from the Upper Iowa, Turkey, Wapsipinicon, and Cedar rivers as they wind and twist their way through unTo Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
July 2018
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PADDLING IOWA’S WATER TRAILS
* Courtesy of Iowa DNR
Iowa like, heavily timbered, bluff country. Trips along any of these rivers provide some of the best looks into a more unknown side of Iowa’s terrain and history. The Cedar and Wapsipinicon rivers parallel each other as they flow from Southern Minnesota all the way to the Mississippi in Scott and Muscatine counties. The journey will take you through the northern bluff country, mid-state rolling hills and farm country, and showcase towering limestone cliffs that cradle the river between them. These rivers can also provide access to caves and caverns that Native American’s used to call home along these rivers that provided them transportation, food, and lots of biodiversity Iowa used to be well known for. Depending on the time of year, fishing these rivers can provide world class shovelnose sturgeon, walleye, catfish (channel and flat head), small mouth and striped bass, paddlefish, and even bowfishing for short and long nosed gar, drum, and common carp. Due to the length of these rivers and the extent of their tributaries, water levels can rise and fall very quickly. Southern Iowa: Characterized by spotty timber stands, open pastures, and expanses of agriculture fields, the rolling hills south of I-80 is referred to as the “till plains” region due to the amount of sediment that was deposited by wind and glaciers over thousands of years. This area is extremely fertile which gives shape to its current state of farming from fence row to fence row and pasture ground. Wind turbines are becoming more and more popular due to the landscape being relatively unobstructed in the south eastern portion of the state, while the south west/ south central portions of the state give way 20
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to scattered sections of timber and wetlands as you move towards the Mississippi river corridor. The rivers seem to shed light on the culture of the area as they meander between the rolling hills at a hardworking but lazy pace. These rivers showcase the rich soil with their silt covered banks. Heavy runoff from farm covered hills keeps the water clarity to a minimum and periods of high water due to can move entire sand bars hundreds of feet and shift river boundaries. The Racoon River that cuts through south central Iowa is one of the most popular hangouts for paddlers, floaters, and fishermen seeking their fill of catfish. There are several rivers that meet up with the Racoon that provide some scenic adventures of their own. Each can provide trips that are a few hours to a few days long depending on how far you want to go. Redfield, Van Meter, Boonville, and other small Iowa communities have great public access points for you to plan your drop off and recovery launches. There are many more paddle friendly places to be found on the extensive map of Iowa’s water trails that can be found on the Iowa DNR’s website: http://www. iowadnr.gov/Things-to-Do/CanoeingKayaking/Water-Trail-Maps-Brochures. No matter where you go, be sure to read up on the history of the area before launching off the shoreline. No matter what you are seeking on your paddle adventure, you are sure to find a reflection of yourself and the history that carved the landscape we call home. As always, be sure to wear your life jacket and plan your route. Let someone know where you are going and above all, have fun.
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IF YOU ARE a kid at heart like I am, now is the time to get after those big bluegills on Iowa’s lakes. It starts a little earlier in the south because the water warms sooner, but it always happens this time of year. About the last week in May through about the middle of June, the bluegills move into their spawning areas, and the fishing action goes crazy. North, south, east and west: Iowa’s bluegill lakes offer outstanding action. I love to fish a lot of species of fish, but nothing gets me fired up as much as bluegill fishing during the spawn.
BE ON THE LOOKOUT
It is truly about location. Most often the bluegill spawning beds are going to be in the shallow sandy areas of quiet bays or protected shallow flats. There might be some lily pads or bull rushes or scattered weeds for protection. Sunny calm days are best or at least on the protected side of the lake. The males will make the spawning bed, usually depressions 1-2 feet in diameter. I always use a good pair of polarized sunglasses to find the beds, which often appear as dark spots on the bottom. One male bluegill can build several spawning beds, so when you find a spawning area, you might find dozens of depressions. The clearer the water, the more the beds will stand out to you. I fish the Iowa Great Lakes of Minnewashta, Upper Gar, East Okoboji, West Okoboji, Spirit Lake and Center Lake. Although these lakes are all good, a common focus point for me is July 2018
checking the shallows around the docks. Docks, especially wood docks, are great “manmade” structures that provide both protection and shade. The key is not all docks are created equal! So, it becomes a matter of scouting out the docks and watching for either bluegills around the
bluegills on these lakes. This helps when the wind blows, because the best fishing occurs during sunny, warm days with calm waters. Even if the wind blows, I have found areas that we can always get out of the wind. The thing about the docks on say, West Okoboji, is that many of them end up with their platform in 8-10 feet of water. Luckily, the water is clear and you can still see everything, and on West, the beds might be out as deep as 15 feet.
PRESENTATION
Quite often, it is clear enough that you can actually see the fish go after the bait. It is important to get the bait down to the bluegills this time of year. Right before the spawn, they are hanging near the spawning
DURING THE PRE-SPAWN SOME DOCKS WILL HAVE PRIMARILY FEMALES AROUND THEM, WHILE OTHERS WILL HAVE PRIMARILY MALES. WHEN THAT HAPPENS, WE TRY TO AVOID HARVESTING THE BIG FEMALES. docks or those dark spots on the bottom. In addition, look for some weed growth nearby and a good sandy bottom for the bluegills to be able to make their spawning beds. I’ve been doing this for so long that I have several areas (bays) that I know hold
area, but as we head into the spawn, you need to get the bait in their face. Once the females lay their eggs, the males guard the nest. At this point, you must get the bait right down within an inch or so of the bed. If you don’t, the male (bull) won’t chase after it. TheIowaSportsman.com
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TIME FOR BIG GILLS
Sometimes we clip a bobber to keep the bait suspended so that it is just off the bottom and cast in and around the docks and over the beds. Yet, there are times when the gills want a slowly falling bait, so we will take off the bobber and cast the bait so it slowly falls to the beds below.
USING THE ANCHOR
Obviously, this type of fishing means sticking on a spot. Years ago, I gave up using an anchor. Pulling the anchor up is definitely a backbreaking job. So, I now use a Minnkota Terrova I-Pilot as my trolling motor and also as my anchor. Deploying and raising the Terrova is a much easier task. Now, we do shift a little bit and won’t hold me in one exact spot, but I can cast to the beds or sit above the beds and stay relatively steady. Now, here is something interesting. During the pre-spawn some docks will have primarily females around them, while others will have primarily males. When that happens, we try to avoid harvesting the big females. They are so heavy with spawn and with their size, I like to see them complete the spawning cycle.
LURES AND BAITS
First of all, light line is the only way to go, preferably 3 to 4-pound mono that won’t spook the bluegills in that clear water. For lures, we go small like a #12 Rat Finkee or a small tungsten Clam Drop jig. The key is we want a jig that will slowly float down, not drop like a rock! Now the bait. At other times of the year, we will use wax worms, silver wigglers or powerbaits. This time of year we go to a wiggling, fat juicy worm. Not 24
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nightcrawlers and not garden worms...no, these go by a variety of names: Belgian, trout, live worms…but they are way more active and tougher than regular garden worms…like worms on steroids! There is just something enticing about a wiggling, fat juicy worm that bluegills can’t resist. Don’t thread the worm on the hook; just hook it by the tip. Feel the tick or watch the line: when it moves, set the hook. The battle is on! Invariably, we will have our encounters with both largemouth and smallmouth bass, and maybe even a walleye or two. It seems as if all fish love a fat, juicy worm this time of year.
PROTECTING THE FISH
This, too, can be the time of year when we can literally catch five-gallon buckets full of big bluegills. That’s the reason for the 25-fish limit. These fish are so aggressive this time of year, that on an allday trip you might catch hundreds of fish! When they are those 9+ inch bluegills, I encourage you to keep enough fish for a good meal, but let the rest go for another day. Here on the Iowa Great Lakes, my family and the friends that I fish with try to follow this. Our hope is that letting some of those big bluegills go will help the fishery. We do it for walleyes, largemouth and smallmouth bass and musky, so why not our big bluegills? It’s a great time of year to catch fish. I encourage you to take a youngster or a senior citizen out. I’ll bet the “kid” will come out in you as you reel in these feisty bluegills. Oh, and nothing beats a good meal of crisp bluegill fillets!
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“A PICTURE IS worth a thousand words.” It’s a phrase that we’ve all heard before. However, as a sportsman, I would argue, “A picture is worth a thousand memories.” As I’m am typing this article in my office, I am surrounded by pictures and memories on my walls of the many different hunts that I have had the privilege to be involved in over a good many years. 26
The Iowa Sportsman
8x10 photos of my grandfather, my father, me, and now my daughters sometimes leave me in a dreamful state as I recount the details of the adventures behind those pictures. It’s the pictures that I first
begin to admire with my eyes and when that starts the memories come flooding quickly thereafter. The proper picture of your outdoor adventure or trophy will last much longer than the taxidermy on your wall that will, over time, deteriorate into nothing. For a number of years, the men in my family and I have attempted a hunt of some sort in the fall. For a good streak, our To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
adventure of choice was a Do It Yourself (DIY) Antelope hunt in Wyoming. We’d schedule a week off to drive to Wyoming, set up a camp on public lands, and spend the week scouting, hunting, and processing what we harvested. It was always a great time with the guys and we looked forward to it every year. One year, as we are making our trip westward, we stopped at a hotel in western Nebraska. It had a very nice outdoor patio with a gas fire pit and lounge seats. As we sat there, my uncle surprised us with a spur of the moment (although I think he had it planned) talk on taking the proper photo of your trophy. He had printed photo examples, writings, and more for us to as he began a lecture on why we should put these tools and advice into action. Just a few days later, all five of us were able to put it to the test as we filled our antelope tags on opening day. The pictures from that year set a new pace for us in the years to follow. Taking a great photo is more valuable than having a taxidermy bill that puts a dent in your wallet.
YOUR HARVEST
Think of it. You’ve seen the gory photos before and maybe you’ve been guilty of it. It’s a picture you’d expect in some sort of horror book. The hunter holding on to his kill. Blood coming from various parts of its body and him with a sinister grin of accomplishment. Maybe it’s in the back of the truck, or hanging in the garage. And when your non-hunting friends look at it, they are repulsed by the sight of it. Right? Have you seen something like that before? A good picture begins with the care of your animal. First things first, get rid of the blood! When we prepare for a photo,
July 2018
I usually bring a bag of wipes or a roll of toilet paper that will help me clean up the animal. Take care to clean up the wound site. Clean any blood coming from the mouth or nostrils. Do your best to clean up other parts of the body and even the immediate area of ground that you will be posing in such as the leaves, grass, or snow. I would suggest NOT gutting your harvest until after the photos are done. Nobody wants to see the inner cavity of an animal in a photograph. Before the joints and ligaments stiffen up, pose your animal in a laying position with all four limbs folded naturally underneath its body. If possible, try to pose the side with the least “damage”. Nobody needs to see the gaping hole that your bullet or arrow caused. A clean animal and a good pose are a very important first step to a great photo.
SCENERY
The next element of a great picture that you should consider is the scenery around
hills around the lake or river, and maybe the trees nearby. When it comes to posing a deer, turkey, coyote, hog, or anything that you would chase on land, be sure to include the timber behind you or a tree line on the end of the field that you harvested in. Maybe a hay bale that is nearby. If you are in the daylight, do what you can to capture the scene around you. It will make for a great memory of your hunt. If the picture is in the dark (end of the day hunt), worry about your immediate surroundings. Is the snow that is nearby free of blood? Is there a tree or two that you could back up to? Again, maybe a round hay bale that could become a part of the background. With the absence of the sun, a scenic picture will be impossible. However, you will have the couple feet around you show up in your picture. Do what you can to set up your scene.
PERSPECTIVE IS EVERYTHING
We’ve probably all seen the pictures of
WITH ALL THAT SAID, DON’T EVER MISS THE OPPORTUNITY TO TAKE A PHOTO OF YOUR TROPHY. CALL ME SENTIMENTAL, BUT THOSE PICTURES HAVE MEANT MUCH MORE TO ME THAN THE SHOULDER MOUNTS AND SKULLS THAT ADORN THE WALLS OF OUR HOUSE. you. Whether you’re fishing, hunting, trapping, or doing something else, the surroundings can add to the story of the photo and thus the memory. If you are posing a fishing photo of an amazing catch, make sure to get a good scene of the lake or river that you caught it on in the background. You’ll want to see the water, maybe a distant shoreline, the
the obvious “hold out” of a trophy in order to make the rack or body look larger than it really is. Truthfully, who wouldn’t want to have that? There are a couple of angles and perspectives that you should pay some heed to when taking your trophy photo. They will enhance the size of your trophy as well as the scene around you. First, if possible, shoot from a lower position than the target. For example, when I take pictures of the daughters and their deer harvests, I will usually lay on my belly in front of them and shoot at a low, but slightly upward angle. This makes the scene look eye-level and will usually leave your target looking a bit larger than it was. The same thing should be done with a fishing picture. If the angler is holding his catch at arms length, take the time to lower your position of shooting to take a slightly upward photograph. Don’t sacrifice any of the surrounding scenery though. You don’t need a shot of the fish and the sky. Encourage the hunter or angler to sit or stand a good foot or two behind the trophy as they pose for a picture. Extend their arms whether they are holding fish or a set of antlers or horns. Is it cheating? Some might say yes. Others, like me, just say, TheIowaSportsman.com
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TAKING A LONG-LASTING MEMORY
“that’s just a good picture!” Another important element to remember is to make sure that the target of your photo is large and centered in your photograph. Fill up most of the frame with the trophy and the hunter or angler. Remember, you still should see the scenery around them, but the purpose of the picture is to celebrate the accomplishment of the hunter and the trophy. They should not be the smaller target set in the middle of the picture. Whatever angle you decide to shoot from, make sure it is free of grass, small sticks and debris, or even seedling trees. Those are a few things you might not notice in your viewfinder, but they will show up in the result of your photo in a big way.
MORE IS BETTER
When you are getting ready to take a photo that could last for years and years to come, don’t be afraid to take more than one picture. In fact, when we take pictures of our trophies in the Graden family, we take a ton! When I get my targets posed and their trophy ready for a photo, I usually hold down that “take a picture” button and keep that camera going. Notoriously, you will have somebody blink, the animal will shift, a weed or limb will blow in the way, a snowflake will create a giant reflection, or something else along those lines will happen. Out of a good dozen shots, you might only get one or two that will make the cut. Having multiple pictures of multiple poses at multiple camera angles will insure that you will get a few great pictures that you would be proud to hang on the wall.
the capability to perform the same quality pictures that a camera would give us in recent years. Multiple pixel cameras in smart phones have made it easy and convenient to capture to great pictures of your trophy without have to take time to walk back to a vehicle or bring the trophy from the field to a home. You can simply pull out your phone and take a picture where things lay. The advantage is that most of these digital phone cameras also allow some unique filters that will only enhance some of the details in the photograph. Colors, pigments, and other parts of a good picture can be enhanced with a simple flick of a fingertip and you have a professional looking memory! With all that said, don’t ever miss the opportunity to take a photo of your trophy. Call me sentimental, but those pictures have meant much more to me than the shoulder mounts and skulls that adorn the walls of our house. Someday when I’m dead and gone, those mounts will be given away or thrown away and nobody will think anything more of them. However, when my great-grand children look at the photo album of Papa’s hunts, those pictures will tell of the stories and memories that will resonate for years to come! Record your hunts, take a good photograph, and treasure the thousands of memories that they will provide to you. Good luck!
TRY A FILTER
Nowadays most of our cell phones have
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AROUND THE STATE
LATE ICE DELAYS CURLYLEAF PONDWEED GROWTH IN IOWA GREAT LAKES The record breaking late ice on the Iowa Great Lakes delayed curlyleaf pondweed growth in the Iowa Great Lakes, but it will top out in portions of East Okoboji Lake and other lakes this week. * Courtesy of Iowa DNR “The plant is only a foot or so below the water’s surface in most locations and looks to be growing in the same areas where we saw it last year,” said Mike Hawkins, fisheries biologist with the Iowa Department of Natural Resources (DNR). “We had hoped that the long winter would knock it back, but it looks like it just delayed its growth.” Curlyleaf pondweed is a non-native plant first discovered in the Iowa Great Lakes more than 70 years ago. This fall germinating plant does best with late fall ice-up and low early snow cover. The past few years have provided optimal growing conditions in lakes around the region. The management plan developed by a community working group last fall is being implemented. The first step was to treat two 10-acre areas in the north bay of East Okoboji Lake and Lower Gar Lake with an herbicide on May 9. “We’re monitoring these treatments, but early indications are that they were successful. We’re seeing very few plants in these areas,” Hawkins said. The second step includes expanding mechanical plant removal from 20 acres last year to 40 acres this spring. Mechanical harvesting efforts are just getting started. These treatments are strategically placed to create lanes for boat traffic and July 2018
ease access at boat ramps and from private docks. Iowa Great Lakes homeowners and lake users have expressed concern about plants washing to shore and piling up around docks and hoists. “A lot of loose, curlyleaf pondweed was floating on the surface right after ice out this year. This was probably caused by the plant being caught in the shifting ice and being pulled up,” said Hawkins. ”We have witnessed a lot of plants being cut by boat and barge propellers. There was concern that clippings from mechanical harvesting are to blame, but that material is removed from the lake when it is cut and composted at approved disposal sites. “Eradication of the plant is not feasible. We need to work together as a community to help lessen some of the impacts with the few options we have.” Private application of herbicides by homeowners in public water is strictly prohibited and can be dangerous if not done correctly. Lakeshore residents can remove plants around their dock and hoist by mechanical cutting, pulling or raking without a permit. Dispose aquatic plants on the adjacent property or haul them to a disposal site. Transportation of plants and zebra mussels is allowed by obtaining a free permit at the Iowa DNR’s Spirit Lake Fish Hatchery. The East Okoboji Lakes Improvement Corporation and the City of Orleans have
been active partners in this project, providing funding and contracting services for the work. Additional funding has come from the Marine Fuel Tax fund used to improve and maintain boating access in Iowa.
PADDLERS WARNED TO AVOID BRIDGE CONSTRUCTION AREA ON RACCOON RIVER UNTIL DEBRIS HAS BEEN REMOVED
Bridge construction that began last year over the Raccoon River in Dallas County is creating a hazard for paddlers. The construction site, just a few miles downstream of the popular Booneville River Access, has steel pilings and debris spanning most of the river. Paddlers and river users should avoid paddling from Booneville to Walnut Woods until the debris and equipment is removed in about six weeks. “You can still start your paddle trip at the Puckerbrush Access about eight miles upstream of the Booneville Access and then end the trip at Booneville,” said Todd Robertson, River Programs outreach coordinator for the Iowa Department of Natural Resources. A map of the North Raccoon River Water Trail is available on the Iowa DNR website at www.iowadnr.gov/Things-toDo/Canoeing-Kayaking/Water-Trail-MapsBrochures
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TROPHY CATFISH are an amazing animal. This APEX predator is the key to
Here are a few things to keep in mind that will help you find and put more trophy catfish in your boat or get them to the shore for you.
survival and keeping the species going and like big bucks sometimes they are elusive. Everybody loves to catch a monster fish and catfish provide the best opportunity to do just that. FISH WHERE THE FISH ARE
Some bodies of water are better known for their abundance of trophy sized fish than others and some have more big fish than others but there are trophy catfish to be found and caught in nearly every catfish water. What a trophy catfish is can be 30
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interpreted different ways by different people. We must remember that to keep expectations in check for both new anglers and old. To some young kids, a five-pound channel cat is a trophy while to some grown men a 70 pound blue cat is a trophy.
This is a fairly self-explanatory and obvious statement but it is a very overlooked piece of the puzzle. When looking for trophy catfish you have to go where those fish live. This may be to a different section of your river or even a car ride away. To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
Trophy catfish live in the best conditions they can find. Much of the time they are located where all of the best places to hide and feed exist. In the summer this will be a winding stretch of river with some deeper water, shallow water, faster and slower currents and structure both in and away from the holes and current. Current can also dictate where the fish will be. When the current is average to high they may be located in one area of river feeding and living in areas I laid out earlier. July 2018
When the current is low, sometimes locating current is the key to finding the biggest and baddest catfish in the river. One example of this is my home river, the Red has many different sections with different cover and currents. When the water is normal to high the fish will be in one section but when the water gets very low the fish will spread out over vast miles of cover. In this case, I have to trailer to a different section of river to locate heavier current that will hold
the big fish in a more predictable way to ensure success.
UNDERSTAND THE SEASONAL PATTERN
A catfish is a catfish and water is water. The water temperature and the sun dictate everything a catfish does in life. There are distinct seasons that have been laid out in for a catfish’s season. The simplified version is spring cold water, pre spawn, post spawn, summer, fall and winter. If you understand the season, the TheIowaSportsman.com
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KEYS TO TROPHY RIVER CATS off of 20-foot water, no I am talking one to two feet next to water that is anywhere from eight to twenty feet. If the current and structure is right these shallow areas can provide great resting and ambush points for catfish that may not be actively feeding but would not say no to an easy meal. Shallow water can be so fun too as when a catfish hits your bait the water will just explode, making for an even more exciting trophy experience.
USE THE BEST BAIT
Bait is a regional and seasonal thing. Your job as an angler is to do local research figuring out the best baits for the area and the best times to use it. Catfish are APEX predators and they hunt for what they want when they want it. Having the right bait in the right place to encourage those fish to have a meal is a huge key to catching the biggest fish. catfish are in based on water temperature and time of year you already have an advantage to catching big fish. There are books out there that clearly define these seasons no matter where you live and match them to current conditions telling you where the fish should be. From there all you have to do is make the minor adjustments based on flow and current weather conditions.
these distinct seams using them for both feeding and traveling. These seams create “tunnels” so to speak where the current is less making travel easier and when combined with structure create optimal ambush points for feeding. Knowing how to read these current seams and identify these feeding locations can be a quick way to locate a hungry catfish that might be willing to take your bait.
UNDERSTAND BREAK LINES AND CURRENT BREAKS
DON’T BE AFRAID TO GO SHALLOW
Over the past year I have spent many hours studying the teachings of Buck Perry. While Buck and his protégé, Don Dickson were mainly bass anglers (and some walleye) the lessons they teach on utilizing structure and break lines works with rivers and catfish. All rivers have break lines that create current seams. Trophy catfish relate to
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Going back to current seams for a moment, some current breaks can be very shallow and should not be overlooked. Over the past decade or so much has been written about fishing blue catfish deep and the deeper the better but catfish, especially flatheads and channels can do just the opposite and anglers sometimes overlook the shallow water. I am not talking shallow like 15 feet
TIME ON THE WATER
Even with all of these lessons to locate and catch trophy catfish you still need to put in the time on the water. You can study maps and ask questions all you want but you still have to get out on the water and do the research in person. You have to look at the water and distinguish the higher percentage spots from the plan B spots. You have to gain a grasp for the lay of the land. If you have electronics do some mapping and looking to make sure that what you see is what you are actually getting on the bottom. Lastly, get the bait in the water and put together a pattern. Make some changes and adjustments to your presentations and locations and when it all comes together you will be rewarded with a successful day and hopefully a trophy catfish. One last reminder, a trophy catfish is in the eye of the beholder. Don’t forget to have fun.
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TROPHY ROOM
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TROPHYROOM KI ERIN SHELANGOS
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Want to share a photo of your recent harvest or catch? Submit your hunting, fishing, camping and other outdoor photos to The Iowa Sportsman Trophy Room and you could be in an upcoming issue! To Submit: E-mail a high-resolution photo along with your name and where you are from to: patrick@twinriversmedia.com or directly mail them to: The Iowa Sportsman, Attn:Trophy Room, 1597 3rd Ave NW, Fort Dodge, IA 50501.
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SPRING IN IOWA, and for that matter anywhere in the country, is a pretty active time for our fishy friends that reside in area lakes. Warming water temps are a signal for walleye, crappie, and bass that it’s time to start moving to shallow spring haunts. Walleye are the first to make that transition to shallow water for the spawn. And I do mean shallow! Walleye can be found in a foot of water at times, especially at night. Crappies are not far behind, they will also start their transition from their deep wintering holes to shallow cover. Bass will soon follow as water temps continue to warm giving them the signal that it’s time to move in and start digging out beds for the spawn. As each of these species moves into shallow areas of lakes to spawn, they offer anglers some opportunities to catch quality fish as well and quantity. And at times the amount of fish that can concentrate in a specific area can be staggering. So what happens when the spawn is over and water temps continue to climb. We’re going to explore this transition time and offer tips and tricks to keep chasing after your favorite quarry.
can top 28 inches. These are the fish you want to C.P.R. (Catch, Photo & Release). As the walleye spawn gives way to crappie and bass following it’s important to remember that these larger females are an
SELECTIVE HARVEST
important factor to the future of the fishery. Fish are a renewable resource and great for the table…being selective in your harvest will help keep our fisheries viable far into the future.
Before we dig a bit into some summer fishing strategies I wanted to touch on the importance of selective harvest, especially during the spawn. Walleye, as we’ve noted, are the first to make that move to shallow water. They will be aggressive feeders as they prepare for and ultimately spawn. This time of year can be one where a trophy or personal best may not be far off. Females are usually the larger of the fish being caught and in my most recent experience July 2018
out. It’s also safe to say that some of the baitfish and forage that they feed on will do the same, though they may not be as deep as the walleye. Walleyes are basically lazy fish. They don’t like to chase bait very far and are always looking for an easy meal, so find out what the main forage species is in a given lake and then find them. There are times when the forage fish are suspended in the lake and the walleyes are normally not far away. A crankbait that will get down into the 15-20-foot range is one favorite for midsummer walleyes. If the forage and walleyes are deeper, go to a bottom-bouncer or drop-shot rig. Live bait offerings such as crawlers, leeches, and minnows all work Midsummer walleyes are normally going to be deeper. If you locate fish in
JIG AND MINNOW WILL DO A PRETTY GOOD JOB, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU’RE FISHING ON A CLEAR CALM DAY. WALLEYE WILL HOLD TIGHT TO STRUCTURE AND WILL STAY DEEP.
WALLEYE
Water temps in the summer will warm up into the mid to upper 70’s or, in some places, even warmer. Walleye prefer cooler water and will start moving to deep parts of the lake in search of cool places to hang
the 30- to 40-foot range, add lead to your crankbaits using a drop-sinker on a threeway swivel at least 8 to 10 feet ahead of the lure. If the water is turbid, you want the crankbait down there bumping bottom. I think the vibration – the sound of the lure, as well as the disturbance it makes digging along the bottom – attract walleyes. If the water is clear, a lure running close to the bottom will work, and if you find fish suspended, try to run the lure at the same depth. TheIowaSportsman.com
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WHEN SPRING HAS SPRUNG Jigging vertically for these deeper fish will produce as well. Look for weed beds where forage fish will be hiding from predators. Jig and minnow will do a pretty good job, especially when you’re fishing on a clear calm day. Walleye will hold tight to structure and will stay deep.
CRAPPIE
Crappies are by far one of the most sought-after gamefish here in Iowa in the spring. While walleye are not far behind or even top crappie as the prime target for spring fishing, weather can be a factor in keeping anglers on or off the lake. Walleye spawn during some of the coolest days and nights of Iowa springs, while crappie wait for warmer climes to make that transition. Crappie hold tight to cover and are shallow during the spawn, however, like walleye, they’ll make the move to deep water as the water temps begin to climb. When lake temperatures start climbing to 75-80 degrees, crappies will most often be hanging around deep creek and river channels. Look for them to be suspending near, or holding tight to stumps, brushpiles, and flooded standing timber adjacent to channels in 20 to 30 feet of water. Mark channel drops with buoys, then probe for crappies. A bow-mounted sonar with the transducer attached to the trolling motor will help you stay on target. Lower a sinker straight down into bottom cover and s-l-ow-l-y reel it up, repeating as you progress along the channel. Crappies often suspend in a tower formation, and this presentation will catch fish up from 30 feet to 10 feet deep. While many anglers are looking for crappie in deeper portions of the lake, our friends in the South, (Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi) have developed a pattern for catching summer crappie in 10-15 feet of water. One of the newly discovered secrets is the fact that crappie use trees on dropoffs and sloping banks to move up and down in the water column. The trunks of laydown trees usually remain on shore or in shallow water adjacent to a sloping bank. The branches of the laydown are often shading a deep channel drop off. This is one scenario that makes the perfect storm for catching summer crappie. The laydown in the warm water and sunlight will grow a covering of algae and this will attract baitfish to the laydown. Crappie will use these as a buffet to feed on the baitfish that are feeding on the algae. Use small tub jigs and twister tails when fishing along the edge of the branches. Allow the jig to fall on slack line and then retrieve the bait with a slow to moderate rate swimming the jig down the side of the trunk of the 44
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laydown back to open water over the top of the trees. The crappies seem to be more concerned with eating than they are with staying in the deep water, which makes the summer angler a happy angler.
BASS
In early summer, look for deep areas that have humps, ridges, points, creek beds, old roadbeds, flooded timber, or a grassline at 10 to 20-foot depths. Look for the same type of structure at 20 to 30-foot depths in later summer. Summer giants can be caught on a variety of lures, but the most effective are jig and craw, Texas or Carolina rigged worms 10 to 14 inches in length, and deep-diving crankbaits. Weather can affect the color choices you use as well as the variance of the lakes you are fishing. One thing is certain during summer; color can make a big difference. If you know the area you are fishing is holding fish, but the bite is slow, experiment with different colors. Reservoirs with a marked current flow can be tremendous bass venues in summer. While slack-water impoundments and natural lakes often stagnate in hot weather due to oxygen depletion, the current keeps river-run reservoirs cool and highlyoxygenated. Bass tend to remain shallower in these bodies of water as a result. During this summer period bass move into shallow water near shore during the early morning, late evening, and nighttime to feed. Temperature and light conditions are least stressful during these hours. Largemouth are sight feeders, and they forage more in low light and darkness than many anglers believe. Shaded water areas can be real bass hotspots in summer. Largemouth bass forages most actively during twilight, dusk, and darkness during summer. Thus, major bass fishing efforts should coincide with these times. The best fishing strategy starts in shallow waters by fishing structures that are located near deep water which also contains structure. Bass that are loafing and resting in deep water during the day will move into the nearest shallow water structure that has food available during these periods of low-light intensity. Rip-rap along the dam, pockets, and edges of aquatic vegetation beds, and other shoreline structure, all located in close proximity to deep water, will hold bass that are actively feeding and apt to take a bait or lure. While spring fishing in Iowa can be the hottest action of the year, it goes without saying that when the going get’s hot…the summer angling can heat up as well! Tight Lines All! To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
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“VIOLET, DO YOU see the last deer in the line coming out of the timber?” I whispered. “Yes.” Violet replied nervously. “Take a closer look honey, it’s a buck!” I urged intensely. “It is? It is Daddy!” Violet exclaimed under her fleece balaclava. My daughter and I were hunkered down inside an oak scrub thicket, 75 yards downwind of a well-used deer trail. We were hunting the second shotgun season last fall and shooting hours were waning. Violet had never hunted or killed anything before; preferring to knock the bullseyes out of Wild West targets with the .22 behind the house. However, last season was different. 46
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“Can you see him in your scope yet?” I asked. “I can’t see him, where is he?” Violet replied apprehensively. As youth and archery seasons kicked off last fall, Violet began to take a keen interest in going deer hunting and regularly asked me to take her. After confirming several times that she was ready to go hunting and that she understood what it meant to take an animal’s life, I agreed to take her. “Look up from your scope and find him with your eyes first. Then line him up in the scope when he gets between those two trees. You should have a perfect shooting lane.” I instructed. To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
“Oh! I can see him now. He won’t stop walking!” She worried out loud. “Tell me when you have him in the cross hairs, and I will stop him.” I replied anxiously. “Are you on him?” “Yes.” Violet replied. “Pull the hammer back.” I insisted. “Okay.” She stammered. “Meeeh, meeeh!” I grunted at the walking deer. The buck immediately stopped and looked in our direction. Sitting behind her, I could see that Violet was shaking. Buck fever had set in on her first ever deer hunt, and she was at risk of pulling the shot. Deliberately, I leaned in and calmly whispered her through the process. “It’s just like shooting targets in the yard. Take a deep breath, let half of it out, and slowly squeeze the trigger.” I reassured. “Are you still on him?” “Yes.” She stuttered. “Take him.” I encouraged. Seconds later the little rifle belched flame, and the .44 magnum slug hit the buck just behind the shoulder. The deer immediately crumpled to the ground and never moved or made another sound. Violet successfully harvested her first deer with a text book 55 yard shot, and the 10-year-old could not contain her joy! After many hugs, highfives, “I love you’s” and a few proud tears, we eased up to her deer to pay respects and honor its ultimate sacrifice. A few days later, I was blessed to take my 12-year-old daughter, Gracy, on her first deer hunt. Her poise and determination were inspiring, and in the last few minutes of legal July 2018
shooting light she mustered her courage; bending anxiety and buck fever to her iron will. The buck stood at 101 yards, and seated on the ground with a steady tripod rest, Gracy duplicated her baby sister’s effort with the little rifle. The heavy .44 magnum hollow point’s flight was true; striking the buck just behind the shoulder. Upon impact the deer kicked like a mule and fell to the ground motionless. After the shot pandemonium ensued, with tears and hugs and celebration that I will never forget. We walked up on the buck in the clear, cold, December starlight and paid respects to the noble and honorable animal. True marksmanship is not dependent on old age, years of experience, or professional training. I argue that to be a successful marksman with rifle, pistol, or bow, one first needs to have passion and be willing to learn the fundamentals; investing time at the range to practice. Hours of repetition behind the sights of gun or bow builds muscle memory and permanently imprints the shooting process in one’s mind. Consistently hitting targets with a weapon is no different than mastering any technical skill. Tiger Woods was not born driving greens from 300 yards out and Michael Jordan didn’t learn to make it rain by goofing around in the driveway. They had parents, coaches, and mentors that taught them the fundamentals, and they were passionate about learning to be proficient. Practice developed patience and mental toughness that enabled them to execute shots in the toughest possible situations as if they were
shooting free throws in the gym. According to the Urban Dictionary (https://www.urbandictionary.com/), “Passion is when you put more energy into something than is required to do it. It is more than just enthusiasm or excitement, passion is ambition that is materialized into action to put as much heart, mind, body, and soul into something as is possible.” My Dad was passionate about insuring his 3 boys grew up knowing how to safely and responsibly handle and shoot firearms. He was even more passionate about our being respectful to every life we took and to never, ever, make an animal suffer. A true marksman should be passionate about accuracy and precision and only take ethical shots intended to deliver a clean and dignified death, even if this means passing on the trophy of a lifetime. A true marksman does not take shots at animals at ranges that exceed the capabilities of the weapon or the individual. The risk of wounding or maiming one’s quarry should be reprehensible and keep a marksman from pulling the trigger. Patience is a virtue and a crucial quality all marksman must possess or develop. Whether mentoring children and adults in the fundamentals of shooting or stalking an animal during a hunt, patience is vital to the success of any marksman. A true marksman patiently waits until an animal presents the best possible shot; avoiding low percentage angles or obscured targets. Paying attention to detail is a vital trait anyone who considers themselves a marksman must possess. Determining range, TheIowaSportsman.com
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“QUALITIES OF A TRUE MARKSMAN” windage, and elevation are prerequisites to accurately hitting a paper target with a .22 or hitting the vitals on a 3D archery target. Studying the capabilities of your weapon prior to taking the first shot is mandatory; analyzing trajectory at various ranges and expected point of impact. Understanding how bullet, broadhead, and arrow weights can change the flight of a projectile and terminal ballistics is critical to shooting minute of angle and hitting the ten-ring. A true marksman invests time studying ballistics charts and optimizing their weapon for the intended application; zeroing gun or bow in ideal conditions and practicing in real-life hunting situations. Practicing with your weapon at various ranges, angles, and positions prepares a true marksman for the moment of truth. For example, successful bow hunters don’t practice every shot standing from 20 yards during the summer wearing a t-shirt. Instead, they vary the angles; quartering to, quartering away, and broadside. They shoot targets from elevated tree stands and from enclosed blinds. They practice sitting, standing, on one knee, and on two knees. They shoot with light, mid, and heavy layers of clothing on, attempting to make each practice session as realistic as possible and looking for potential failure points.
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The author’s little marksmen (daughters).
Similarly, rifle or pistol shooters practice shooting from seated, standing, off-hand, prone, and other positions. The objective is to become as comfortable as possible with your weapon in every possible situation to insure you are prepared when that Boone and Crocket enters your shooting lane. Before taking my daughters on their first deer hunt, I tried to pass on the fundamentals my Dad shared with me. Lining up a target in your sights, assuming the most comfortable position, using a rest whenever possible, and following the same breathing routine for every shot were key focus areas. Through practice and good-natured sibling rivalry
my daughters developed confidence with a range of rifles and shotguns from the modest .22 all the way up to the .44 magnum. We’ve punched a lot of holes in paper over the last several years, and it was this preparation that facilitated their success last fall. True marksmanship is not dependent on old age, years of experience, or professional training. Rather, it can be achieved by anyone that is passionate, patient, pays attention to detail, studies their weapon, and invests the time to practice. My daughters are 10 and 12 years-old, and I cannot wait to hit the fields again this fall. I know they will be ready when the time comes. Will you?
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LAST AUGUST, I had the chance to listen to Jon Thelen, walleye guide and host of Lindy’s Fish Ed Television Series, give a fishing seminar at the Okoboji Blue Water Festival. His topic was “Walleyes in the Weeds,” and I was excited to hear what his thoughts were on that topic. I had my own ideas for fishing weeds in the Iowa Great Lakes, but I wondered if his tactics were similar in the walleye lakes he fishes. In addition to the seminar, I had the chance to just sit down with Thelen and talk more about the topic “Walleyes in the Weeds.” You know what excites me the most? Thelen and I were talking the same weed walleye language, even though he uses Lindy spinners and I use Northland spinners. What it means to me is we can use this technique wherever there are good weeds and have a good chance to catch fish. So, this will be my attempt to merge both Thelen’s and my ideas.
CHOOSING A WEEDBED
Around here, fishing weedbeds begins in earnest begins in late June and lasts through July 2018
the summer months. First off, we are talking about trolling over the weedbeds. We are not talking about fishing the edges. Lots of anglers will stay away from going over the tops of the weeds with spinners because it’s easy to get hung up in the weeds, and you have to spend lots of time cleaning off the fouled hooks. According to Thelen, we’re not talking about just any weedbed. “Grass and pencil weeds are not the best choices. There are more bass and panfish around pencil weeds, but they can hold walleyes in the fall.
Cabbage weeds are better choices. You can fish walleyes in weeds that are in five to six feet of water, but I try to target weedbeds in 10-12 feet of water. I also like to have deep water nearby. If possible, I try to choose a weedbed that has deep water on both sides.” Thelen encourages anglers to not just try a weedbed for a few minutes. “Stay with it. They are there. In thicker weeds, I find that the fish will be off and on all day.” Some lakes might only have one or two weedbeds, while other lakes offer weedbeds in several bays and along several points. I agree, but as far as depth is concerned, my best luck around here has been in 6-8 feet of water with weeds that are growing about halfway to two thirds of the way up the water column. The goal is really to get reactionary bites with the walleyes coming up to attack the flash of the spinner.
PRESENTATION
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TROLLING FOR WALLEYES OVER THE WEEDS weight and pull Lindy Lil Guys right over the weeds at anywhere from .8 to 1.2 mph. I am not worried about getting the bait right on the weeds. This is a reaction bite, so I use my front trolling motor to get up to speed and then cast the bait back behind the boat. I will tip the hook with either a nightcrawler or leech. Often times, I will pinch the end of the nightcrawler off.” Thelen likes the Lindy Lil Guy for several reasons. It comes in a variety of holographic color patterns to simulate primary baitfish colors, while the beads mimic the secondary baitfish colors. “I always try to pick the spinners and baits that match the forage.” Thelen also likes that the spinner wobbles side to side adding almost a crankbait-like swimming action to the rig. “The whole objective is to get the fish to come up. The flash, the sparkle and vibration make for a reactionary bite.” Here are my thoughts on presentation: The idea is to keep the spinner in the strike zone but not in the weeds. It’s definitely a fine line. I like to use 4/10 Fireline to help keep the spinner down in the zone. I will place a 1/4-ounce or 3/16-ounce bullet sinker on the line and then tie on a swivel. Next I attach a Northland Tackle 48” to 60” leader with a holographic baitfish spinner.
You can either use a single hook or a double hook. There are 10 different colors designed to match the baitfish hatch in a particular body of water. The glitter and flash is pretty amazing. Over the years, I’ve found the yellow perch, firetiger and sunfish colors to be three of my favorites. You can also pick the type of blade you want to use.
SPEED
We both believe that speed is the key that will trigger the bites, so we go at least .8 mph up to 1.5 mph depending on the day and the mood of the fish. We are looking for the reactionary biters. I’m not really scientific about how far back to let out the line. Unless the wind is blowing too hard, I will use my I-Pilot to move us at the desired speed. Once we are up to speed, I will let the line out until I feel the tick of the vegetation and then reel up a couple of cranks. I will continue to play with the distance until I am satisfied. The good thing is the bullet weight is pretty forgiving, so if the vegetation is kind of up and down, it will slip through the vegetation without getting caught up. If it is too windy, I will try to drift and use the I-Pilot to keep me on the right trail.
TRUST THE ROD HOLDER
I will warn you of one thing. Fishing this shallow water, when the fish go after the bait, they simply smack it! Either have the rod in your hand or in the rod holder. Thelen told me with a smile, “Trust the rod holder! The bites are rod jarring, and rods have been known to exit the back of the boat!” I totally agree. I remember early on when I set my rod down in the bottom of the boat. I barely saved a rod from going out the back of the boat, when a nice walleye nailed the spinner. Since I do this around here, there is always the chance of getting a northern pike to smack the spinner. It might be a small hammer handle, but it also might be a pike up to 10 pounds. Thelen adds, “When the walleye bites the bait, it’s boom (bite and turn), boom. Many times the rod itself will hook the fish. I’ll go, ‘well there’s one…and wait and then take the rod out of the holder. You don’t need to set the hook. The hook is already set. I’ll keep the rod tip up because the fish wants to go down in the weeds and keep steady pressure. Don’t let the line go slack. It becomes like a tug of war.”
YES, IT WORKS
Thelen’s final thought was a great reminder. “When fish leave a feeding area, they leave for a reason, but in the weeds, they are still in their food environment.” However, we both believe that patience is the key for consistent success trolling for walleyes over the weeds. Last summer, three of us that fished together had an incredible run of success trolling over weeds for walleyes, catching our limits several times. Here was a late August morning of fishing: two of us caught 16 walleyes: 2 slots, 6 that we kept between 15-16½” and several 13-14 inchers. We also boated eight northern pike, one a 10 pounder, along with a small musky. Plus we caught a largemouth bass, a perch and a bluegill. This is the perfect time of year to try this technique. The young-of-theyear baitfish and panfish are hiding out in the weeds, and the predator fish are right behind. Nothing like an easy quick meal! Unless you know from past years where the best fishing spots are on these weedbeds, the first few times are hunt and search experiences. However, with the GPS and waypoint capabilities on today’s locators, it doesn’t take long to develop a pattern. Each time a strike occurs I will mark that spot. Soon we have a trolling or drifting trail we can follow. 52
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THIS MONTH I am responding to a question about buying equipment on a budget. Paul from central Iowa asks, “I recently just bought some land for hunting whitetails. My daughter and nephew will be hunting with me. They have been hunting for some time, but I am relatively new to the sport. I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can about hunting whitetails but with so much stuff out there I don’t know where to start. Should I buy good hunting equipment, or should I be spending my money on stuff for food plots. I only have about $500 to $1000 a year to spend but I also want the best hunting I can get as soon as I can. Do you have any ideas that would get me on the right track? 54
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Like most hunters, Paul is on a budget and simply can’t afford to go out and buy a ton of equipment. He needs to set priorities with what he invests in. He does have one thing going for him that many hunters do not, and that is he is starting from a position of having his own hunting land. Having access to land that can provide you with a good hunt is the most important step that many hunters forget about. I’ve seen over and over again where hunters will spend enormous amounts of time and money worrying To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
about all the latest and greatest gadgets available to them, while forgetting that where they hunt has more to do with their success than anything else. Owning your own land can be a huge step offering you years of great hunting. Paul is not unique in questioning what is the next step? Open any hunting catalogue or watch any hunting show and you’ll learn quickly that there are more than enough pieces of equipment available to the hunter to consume all of your resources. And, even if you had the money to buy all this stuff, in only a year or two a newer, better model would be available. The answer is simply that in most cases, hunting gear will not bring you more quality hunting experiences. Now, some warm hunting clothes and a comfortable tree stand will surely help, but if this type of stuff takes away from your access to quality hunting grounds or making the land you have access to better and better through habitat improvements, then you’re wasting your money. So, then what does a hunter invest in so that they can have the best hunting that they can afford?
INVEST IN HABITAT FIRST
Spending your time and money on improving your hunting grounds will give you the highest return on your investments. Hands down, habitat improvements will get you farther and faster on your goal of having more successful hunts than any other expenditure. Whether you are hinge cutting for better cover, planting native woody browse, or putting in food plots, these methods will offer you great rewards in your hunting. There are some tools that can help you along the way in creating better habitat. An inexpensive but reliable chain saw like the Stihl MS170 (I think that’s the model) is under $200 but is a great investment into hinge cutting, creating good shooting lanes, or removing trees from blocking your trails. Every land manager should have a lightweight chain saw! A backpack sprayer will cost you a little over $100 and if you take care of it will last you a long time. Your backpack sprayer is like part of a starter kit for food plotting but can also help you with maintaining exit and entrance trails. A hand seeder like the Earthway 2750 is another great investment for under $50. It too could be part of a starter kit for a food plotter. This seeder/spreader can be used for fertilizer, seed, and pelletized lime and has rate adjustments that are pretty easy to use. Some investments that you can save July 2018
A good hand seeder starter kit for a food plot is the Earthway 2750.
for but would be well worth the money could be an atv with a disc harrow, or better yet a small tractor with a disc. You might be spending a few thousand dollars on this setup but in terms of saving you a lot of work and helping you put in some great food plots, a small tractor is a great tool. Craigslist is a great place to go looking for used implements and with some patience you can get some decent stuff! There are a bunch of older lower horsepower tractors out there that are still very reliable and easy to work on. If this is something you can’t afford right
ANOTHER GREAT IDEA THAT I RECOMMEND TO ANY HUNTER TRYING TO MAKE THEIR PROPERTY HUNT BETTER IS TO ADD A FENCE ROW ALONG WITH SOME FENCE JUMPS OR CROSSINGS. now, set aside some money each year and make it a 5 or 10-year goal to buy one. Forget about all the expensive food plot implements marketed towards deer hunters…just get yourself a small tractor or larger atv and you’ll have no problem doing most chores on your land. A disc harrow is the best all around tool for food plotting on a budget…again don’t get caught up thinking you need anything more than a disc to plant your food plots. Many hunters forget about native plantings to improve their habitat. Whether it’s establishing some patches of switch grass, creating a brushy fence
row of hazelnut, or thickening up bottom ground with dogwood, planting native woody browses and grasses can have huge life long impacts on your hunting grounds. State nurseries can provide you the biggest bang for your buck when buying woody browse plantings. If you want to improve the habitat on your land without spending a ton of money, these types of plantings have high returns. I used to be a huge fan of establishing apple trees too on my properties. I don’t recommend apples as much today as I used to because you have to take care of them the first 4 or 5 years pretty extensively. I’ve lost many an apple tree to bucks destroying them and rodents girdling the bark. Even though I’ve fenced them off and wrapped the trunks it still seems like I lose them at a high rate. Having said all that, a nice apple orchard on your property adds not only a great place to hunt whitetail, but it also increases the property’s value. Another great idea that I recommend to any hunter trying to make their property hunt better is to add a fence row along with some fence jumps or crossings. Many times, this can be done by simply making an existing fence better so that it hinders deer from crossing it while making an opening or easier place to cross where it is convenient for the hunter. Fixing existing fence in this manner can cost very little money and can have some pretty big reward value. Even establishing a new fence for the sole purpose of having a fence crossing to hunt is not that much money relatively speaking. I can justify spending money on something like this because it has instant positive effects on my hunting and it lasts for years. TheIowaSportsman.com
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AFTER THE HABITAT
If you want better hunting on a budget, always think habitat improvements first. Always! For Paul, this means sticking his efforts into his own property. If you don’t have your own land, and don’t have access to a good place to hunt, buying every gadget in the world isn’t going to make your hunts more successful. Start with gaining access to great land first or making the land you have access to great! Only once you have step one accomplished should you ever worry about what broadhead to use and which pair of optics to buy. There are some things however that will make your hunts easier and more enjoyable. An adequate number of stands is always a good idea because this allows you to move around to take advantage of wind direction, changing food sources, and even localized hunting pressure. As I get older I’m really starting to like the comfortable ladder stands more and more. If you can buy one every other year you’ll have a decent collection of stands in a few years. I do have some decent hunting clothes that are mostly non-brand name (or off brands). Warm clothes can keep
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you in the woods enjoying your sport longer. Quality wool hunting jackets and bibs can be purchased used for half the price of less quality but new brand name stuff. My bow is 10 years old but still shoots straight…no need to upgrade there. And, my backpack is filled each fall with the hunting gear I’ve used (calls, optics, etc.) for the past 20 years or so. My point is some equipment and gadgets do add to your hunting experience, but most do not. The bottom line for Paul or any other hunter looking to maximize the dollars
they spend is to invest in the things that give the highest return. Investing in access to great hunting grounds or improving your own is the best way to make sure each fall is successful and each hunt is enjoyable.
GENERATING EXTRA CASH
Paul and other land-owner/hunters have another option that would increase their available cash each fall and help them improve their properties faster. It involves bringing on an additional hunter or two to spread out the money burden. Let me explain…around 1999 or so I was looking for a lease with a group of friends so that we could gain access to some better hunting grounds. We found a larger lease from a farmer who was simply looking to generate some extra cash. We did all the work on the farm in terms of deer habitat, stands, etc. and the farmer got to reap the benefits for his own hunting. The value of his farm also increased as many of the things we did had long term positive impacts on his farm. He was able to continue hunting right along side us without spending hardly a dime. In the beginning it was strictly a business transaction as we paid a modest lease. Over the years we became very good friends even though we eventually ended the lease. Our money funded all the habitat improvements, food plots, and other things while he provided the land. It was a good deal for both parties. Any landowner/hunter that wants to improve their properties faster should consider “sharing” their land with other hunters in a mutually beneficial way that could bring in extra cash. There are always hunters willing to contribute time and/or money in this way. Make sure to send in any questions or ideas for an article you would like written for the Whitetails 365 column to tapeppy@gmail.com. Thank you. To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
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SPENDING MONEY BRINGS me pain; spending money on eating out in a fancy restaurant brings me more pain; spending money on a new vehicle…I have never done this so I don’t know how much pain that would be; spending money on a hunting trip doesn’t faze me. Somehow in my mental accounting system, I allow my trip to be pain-free. How do I do it? The money I am willing to part with for an upcoming hunting trip still comes from the same checkbook as for insurance, clothes, mortgage, or paying for medicine. I can accept this by shifting the exchange of money under the mental account called “I really need to do this.” You have one of these same accounts; you just might not realize it. Some men will gamble away $200 in Vegas, using their entertainment account to justify such a short-term experience! According to the authors of the book, Dollars and Sense, How we Misthink Money and How to Spend Smarter, “The pain of paying is the result of two distinct factors. The first is the gap between the time when our money leaves our wallet and the time we consume the goods (the hunt) for which we’ve paid. The second factor is the July 2018
attention we give to the payment itself.” (Did we pay cash or did we punch in our credit card numbers thoughtlessly?) I pay for my tags well in advance. For out of state hunts I book my cabin and pay for it in advance of the hunt. By the time I arrive in late September, the hunt feels like it is free for me. I can enjoy it without the pain or guilt. Not only do I arrive at the hunt without quilt, but I have also had two months of enjoyment of dreaming as I anticipated the hunt. I have high expectations which allow me to counterbalance my excessive expenditure of an out-of-state hunt. However, when I have to lay down hard earned cash for a particular item- I feel pain. That is why I try to avoid it as often as I can. My nickname is not cheap-cheap, but something very close. I am so careful with my money that I will go without
warm clothes or a pair of boots with holesthinking I might be able to pick something up at the Goodwill store for nearly free. Everyone loves a bargain; you feel like you win. No one likes to pay full price; you feel like you have lost. Give me a gift card to my favorite restaurant, and I am the first pig to the trough. Force me to open my wallet and lay out several $20 bills for a meal, and I will go kicking and screaming. It is too painful for me to enjoy a fine meal knowing it will cost me hard earned dollars; I remember it took me 4 hours of unpleasant work to earn the amount that I will consume in less than 30 minutes. (I would not be a fun date! My wife agrees.) I look for hacks to save me from spending. I want to hunt and fish, but I don’t want the meat to be valued at $25 a pound; I want the value of the meat to seem reasonable and less than what I can purchase at Fareway. If you go out-of-state to hunt, the sheer cost of the license will dollar up the value of the meat you might bring back; I have to change my way of thinking to carry through with this type of hunt: I view it as a once-in-a-lifetime event- that just so happens every year. TheIowaSportsman.com
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TEN WAYS TO REDUCE THE PRICE PER POUND In Iowa, I spend about $200 per year for tags and licenses to hunt and fish. I believe I get good value for my expenditures. My freezer is full of deer meat, a few packages of wild turkey breast and fish. My head calculator pencils out the meat to be about a buck a pound. I can live with this.
HERE ARE TEN HACKS TO SAVE MONEY:
• Buy used equipment. Take advantage of those who think that constant upgrades are key to their success. Somebody is always adding three more foot per second to their new and improved bow, and someone thinks they need the three feet improvement. I love to buy used bows. Three seconds doesn’t matter to me. I have killed deer with a bow that travels less than 200 feet per second; having the ability to shoot the fastest only counted on the 1960 TV show, Gunsmoke. • Get by with your old clothes. Deer don’t know if you are wearing the latest camo pattern; nor do they care just how good you look. I dress as if I were a homeless person. Maybe no one wants to use my pictures of myself and my trophy in the centerfold of their catalogs but looking good has very little effect on success rate. The latest fashions might make us feel more like a hunter but feeling like one is not reality. • Avoid gimmicks. “Buy this product, and your hunting skills will improve 47%.” We all have heard the carnival barkers at sports shows and on TV. It is easy to be suckered into something new and shiny rather than working on your shooting skills or stand placement. Don’t be a sucker; stick to the basics. • Sell your excess. The longer you hold onto something, the more obsolete it becomes. Think army camo, think aluminum arrows. Get rid of your excess by giving it away or selling it. With today’s Craigslist and eBay, reselling good used items is more convenient than ever before. • Purchase next year’s supplies at the end of the season. Broadheads and muzzleloader equipment are heavily discounted after the season is closed. Begin to check the shelves around Christmas time for over-stocked supplies that the retailer wants to unload before the new year. • Avoid buying expensive jerky and other snacks, make your own. Jerky pencils out about $20 per pound if bought at Walmart; I can eat a half pound of jerky every day! By grinding up last years left over deer roasts, you can produce store quality jerky for a buck a pound. • Grow your own bait. At $3 per dozen, night crawlers are $.25 each! I sacrifice my back in April when there are heavy spring showers and pick up at least 100 dozen 60
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crawlers. When my neighbors see me wandering the local gravel roads at 5 a.m. with a headlamp and a coffee can, they think I am running away from home again. I put the crawlers in a Styrofoam container, throw in some decaying leaves, sprinkle a little corn meal for food, and I have bait all summer long. • Every dollar budget tracks all expenses. Do the same with your hunting supplies and equipment; that means gas, food, snacks, guns, ammo. Once you have begun tracking your expenses, you learn to forego some of the superlative purchases. Keep track of every expense associated with your outdoor pursuits. • Forego the ATV. Fourteen thousand dollars is a lot of money to spend on something that gets you out to the tree stand and helps you carry out supplies and deer. I know, you rationalize it as a family vehicle that brings you closer together. If you want closeness, buy a $1000 Toyota pickup- you will feel the closeness. Using an ATV for hunting is like using a golf cart for golfing; what started out as a sport for exercise gets reduced to a sport with comfort. • Avoid using your credit card. There is little pain when paying with plastic; by handing over hard-earned cash, the immediate pain will force you to buy less and shop harder for bargains. If you can’t pay cash, you don’t need it. As the tiny house and the minimal lifestyle movement grows, young people are more aware of the excess of everything around them; what is true with houses is true with the sportsman. We don’t have a couple of fishing poles; we have 20 that we have collected by various means. We don’t have one shotgun we have a whole gun case full of seldom used guns. We have purchased more and more because we could, and not because we needed something. Being frugal helps console the better half as well; I remember well my wife looking at me wondering how we could afford a $15 deer tag when the budget was tight, and our small children were in need of shoes. Mom needs to see value returning to the home budget. My Dutch-like behavior paid off over the years of just getting by with leftovers and used equipment; today I have money for an out-of-state hunt every year. I can drive to my cabin in NE Iowa for trout fishing without concern of the family budget. I have an equally nice fishing cabin located over my home pond. As Dave Ramsey says, “If you live like no one else today, later you can live like no one else.” To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
Palo Outdoors
1204 1st Street Palo, IA 52324 319-851-5290 www.palo-outdoors.com
R & R Sports
3250 Fields Drive Bettendorf, IA 52722 563-243-4696 www.randrsportsinc.com
Southern Archery 325 11th St SW Spencer, IA 51301 712-262-7213
Fin & Feather
125 Hwy 1 W Iowa City, IA 52246 319-354-2200 www.finfeather.com
Sommerfeld Outfitters 330 N Main St Lidderdale, IA 51452 712-822-5780 www.shopsommerfeld.com
The Iowa Outdoors Store 1597 3rd Ave NW Fort Dodge, IA 50501 515-955-HUNT (4868) www.iowaoutdoorstore.com
July 2018
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GUNDOG CORNER
THE LABRADOR RETRIEVER By: Simpson’s Labrador Retrievers
History: Originating in Eastern Canada in the province of Newfoundland, this small fishing village along the
Atlantic Ocean was known as St. John. This making the first Labrador Retrievers known as St. John Dogs. They spent their days working hard at sea and then returning home to play with the children quickly earned the lab accreditation as a work alcoholic with a loving nature. The lab was close to becoming existent several times but with help from some key people and their efforts, we still have this wonderful breed today. They were first registered in the United States in 1917 by the American Kennel Club. It wasn’t until the late 1920s that the lab would start its climb to fame. The American Kennel Gazette issued an article in 1928 called “Meet The Labrador Retriever”, educating and introducing the public to this new breed.
AMERICAN VS ENGLISH
So many people ask “what’s the difference between the English Lab and the American Lab?” There is quite a big difference between the two including build, energy level and temperament. The English Lab has a very blocky head, a shorter, stocky body, and a thick otter tail and should still have that natural instinct to retrieve. They usually have a lower energy level than the American Lab and we have noticed that they are not as dominant as the American Lab. The English do have a thicker coat and tend to shed more. The American Lab, also known as the field lab is taller, slender and has more of a bullet shaped head. They have a much higher energy level than the English and have been bred to excel at field trials and hunt test competitions because of their athleticism. In conclusion, both are wonderful dogs and make great family companions as well as hunting partners.
TRAINING
This is one of the most important factors when it comes to owning any dog. 6-8 weeks of age is the optimal time to begin basic obedience, swimming, fetching, live birds, crate training, socializing and anything else you personally plan to do with your dog. A much over looked tool is the pinch collar. It applies a minimal pinch when your dog pulls hard on the leash. If you take anything away from this segment let it be this, save yourself the headache and get a pinch collar. It will make training and communicating with your pup much easier. Puppies will start to lose their puppy teeth around 6-8 months of age. It’s cautioned to wait for in-depth retrieval training like force fetch until the puppy has lost all of its baby teeth, but basic obedience should be done by this time. A great source for information and step by step training is “The Retriever Trainer” by Freddy King. With countless hours of in-depth videos on how-to’s, this man has turned the training world upside down and made it easy and fun for all!!
• Labrador Retrievers have webbed toes making them great swimmers.
HEALTH TESTING
Health testing is key to ensure a healthy dog for years to come. Many think that health testing is going to their vet and having an annual wellness exam performed. That is not the case. Health testing is a wonderful tool that responsible breeders use to prevent orthopedic and genetic diseases that are well known to their particular breed. There are many organizations that offer these services. The OFA, Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, is probably one of the most well-known and widely used. They serve all breeds of dogs and cats, and provide breeders a means to respond to the challenge of improving the genetic health of their breed through better breeding practices. Some other organizations that offer genetic testing are Paw Print Genetics, GenSol Diagnostics and DDC Veterinary.
PURCHASING TIPS
When you have decided that the time is right to bring a new Labrador puppy into your home, we highly recommend following these important buying tips. The first and most important to us is making sure you are buying from someone who cares enough about the breed to perform the necessary health tests on their breeding dogs. If you are unsure on which tests they are, you can find them listed on the OFA website at www.ofa.org. Please make sure you ask for proof of testing because we have found that many will tell you that they do the proper health tests but they do not. You also want to buy from someone who will guarantee the health of their puppy. Most reputable breeders will include a 26-30 month genetic health guarantee. Make sure the breeder has started the potty training process, crate training and introduces their puppies to water, live birds and many different sights and sounds before sending them to their new homes. We believe that early introduction to these things can really set a great foundation for a confident retriever and make training a lot easier on you and the puppy.
CONCLUSION
A dog of many talents with a heart as big as the moon, the Labrador retriever is the most popular dog breed in America for good reason. It makes me proud to be an owner and breeder of this special canine. Whether it’s watching them strut their stuff in the ring or take to the field, the Labrador retriever is very versatile and has won the hearts of millions.
DID YOU KNOW?
• The Labrador Retriever is primarily bred to be a working gun dog. • Labrador Retrievers have an average lifespan of 12 years. • The Labrador Retriever coat colors are Black, Yellow and Chocolate. Any other color or combination of colors is a disqualification. A small white spot on the chest is permissible but not desirable. Blacks are all black. Yellows may range in color from fox red to light cream. Chocolates can vary in shade from light chocolate to dark chocolate. • The coat of a Labrador retriever is short, straight and very dense with a soft, weather resistant undercoat that provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. 62
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DOG BREEDERS
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IOWA SPORTSMAN COOKBOOK
CARMEL COATED CATFISH INGREDIENTS
• 1/3 cup water • 2 Tablespoons fish sauce • 2 shallots, chopped • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes • 1/3 cup water • 1/3 cup white sugar • 2 pounds catfish fillets • 1/2 teaspoon white sugar
• 1 Tablespoon fresh lime juice • 1 green onion, thinly sliced • 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
DIRECTIONS • Mix 1/3 cup of water with the fish sauce in a small bowl and set aside. • Combine shallots, garlic, black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a separate bowl and set aside. • Heat 1/3 cup of water and 1/3 cup of sugar in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally until sugar turns deep golden brown. • Gently stir in the fish sauce mixture and bring to a boil. • Stir in the shallot mixture and cook until shallots soften, then add the catfish.
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• Cover and cook the catfish until the fish flakes easily with a fork, about 5 minutes on each side. • Place catfish on a large plate, cover, and set aside. Increase heat to high and stir in 1/2 teaspoon of sugar. • Stir in the lime juice and any sauce that has collected on the plate. • Bring to a boil and simmer until the sauce has reduced. • Pour sauce over the catfish and garnish with green onions and cilantro.
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CATFISH CAKES INGREDIENTS
• 1 pound catfish fillets • 1 medium onion, chopped • 1 Teaspoon prepared yellow mustard • 1 tablespoon creamy salad dressing (e.g. Miracle Whip)
• 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning • 2 1/2 cups coarsely crushed buttery round crackers • 1 egg • 1 cup vegetable oil (for frying)
DIRECTIONS • Place catfish in a saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, and cook until fish flakes easily with a fork. • Drain off water, and mash up the fish. • Stir in the onion, mustard, salad dressing, Old Bay, cracker crumbs and egg. Mix until
evenly blended. • Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. • Form the fish mixture into patties, and fry in the hot oil. • Drain on paper towels, and serve hot.
BEER-BATTERED CATFISH TACOS INGREDIENTS: BATTER
• 1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour • 1/4 cup dried Mexican (or regular) oregano • 1/2 cup mustard
• 1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil • 1/2 tsp salt • 1/2 beer
INGREDIENTS: FISH AND MARINADE • 1 large catfish fillet, cut into strips • 4 cups water • 1/4 cup garlic powder • 1 Tbs. salt
• 2 quarts vegetable oil (he used lard, which is awesome if you’re into that) • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
DIRECTIONS • In a large bowl, mix all the beer batter ingredients together. It should have a pancake batter consistency. Cover and chill for about two hours. • For the fish marinade, combine the fish, water, garlic powder and salt in a medium bowl. Let that chill for two hours, along with the batter. • Pour the flour into a shallow baking dish. • Heat the oil (or lard) in a deep, straight-sided pan to 350 degrees. • Drain the fish from the marinade and pat each strip dry. Lightly dredge the fish through the flour, shaking off any excess, then dip it in the beer batter. • In batches, fry the fish in the oil until golden brown all over, about two minutes per batch. Place on paper towels to drain. • To serve, place a couple of fish “sticks” on a couple of corn tortillas. Top with pico de gallo, shredded green cabbage and cilantro cream. * Simple pico – just chop about 5 roma tomatoes, 1 small seeded jalapeno pepper, a little bit of red onion, a handful of cilantro and a few squeezes of lime juice. Season with salt. * Cilantro cream – about half a cup of sour cream in a food processor with half a cup of cilantro leaves and 1 – 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice.
WE WANT YOUR RECIPES!
We want to see what our readers are cooking up, more importantly we want to taste what you are cooking. Please send us some of your most tastiest wild game recipes and we will publish them in the Iowa Cookbook Section. You can send recipes to patrick@twinriversmedia.com or mail them to The Iowa Sportsman, 1517 3rd Ave NW, Fort Dodge, IA 50501.
July 2018
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FISHING IOWA
EARLY SUMMER LARGEMOUTH By Bob Jensen
It seems like winter has just departed and some anglers are already thinking about catching bass in the early summer months. June is near or here, and some of the best largemouth bass fishing of the year is here or near also. If you’re on the “right lake”, and there are a lot of “right lakes” scattered across the Midwest, you can catch a bunch of bass in shallow water in the coming weeks. This is exciting fishing. Often you’ll see a wake in the water as the bass approaches your bait, and much of the time you’ll see the bass smash your bait. This shallow water action is fun, exciting, and visual: It’s just what fishing is supposed to be: A good time. Here’s how you can have a good time in shallow water. When fishing in shallow water, it’s extremely important that you keep quiet. Fish of most species can be pretty spooky in the shallows, and largemouth bass are no different. You can’t be making noise when fishing the shallows if you want to catch fish. The bass will be near the areas where the spawn occurred. Shallow water cover is necessary to hold numbers of bass. That cover could be boat docks, trees lying in the water, pads, or reeds. The bass will be moving around quite a bit, but they’ll almost always be near cover. There are several ways to catch largemouth bass in shallow water, but my top 3 choices would be a swim-jig, a spinnerbait, and a plastic. Here’s why. A spinnerbait and swim-jig will enable an angler to cover water quickly. The thought used to be that jigs were meant to be fished slow, and slow still works with jigs. However, a swim-jig, something 66
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like a Strike King Tour Grade Swim Jig tipped with plastic, can be fished almost like a spinnerbait. You don’t want to burn it, but worked in a swimming, lift/ drop manner, you can cover a lot of water and catch a bunch of bass. A swim-jig is like a spinnerbait without the spinner. Traditional spinnerbaits catch tons of bass. In fact, in stained water they’re still the go-to bait for many anglers. The spinner throws vibration and flash and helps the bass locate the bait easier. Use bigger and brighter blades in cloudy water. Swim-jigs and spinnerbaits are good selections for covering water, but when you narrow down the area that the bass are using, a slower presentation with plastic will enable you to catch a few more fish. Sometimes it works well to go through an area with the faster moving baits and catch the fish that will respond to them, then go back through
the area with slower moving plastic. You’ll probably catch a few more of the fish that were reluctant to take the fast stuff, but that will respond to a slower presentation. Try rigging a Shim-EStick wacky-style, no weight, and fish it near cover. If a bass is there, it will almost always eat it. This is heavy cover, and that means heavy tackle. With the spinnerbait and swim-bait, P-Line XTCB 50 pound test braid will enable you to get the fish under control. I use the same line with the plastic when fishing heavy cover, but will go a bit lighter when fishing more open areas. I like a flippin’ style rod. Lew’s makes several that are very appropriate for this style of fishing. Fishing in shallow water for largemouth bass is exciting, it’s fun, and it’s productive, and right now, or very soon, the best time of the year for doing so will be upon us. Take advantage of it. To Subscribe CALL 877-424-4594
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Marketplace
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Resorts
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Marketplace
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The Helping Hand Dock Rail
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Marketplace
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Marketplace
4TH ANNUAL
2-DAY EVENT
On Friday, August 17th from 4pm-10pm
In downtown Osceola, we will have the Bacon & Bluegrass Festival. This will include the BBQ contest (including chicken and pork), community sampling with purchase of wristband, and live music.
On Saturday, August 18th Lakeside Casino
Is hosting the 4th Annual Car Show at 777 Casino Drive. Registration will be at 8am-11am; Show will be from 11am-2pm; and the awards will be at 4pm. This will include food & vendors on site, Dash Plaques, Goodie bags, Door Prizes, and specialty awards. Pre-registration will be $15 until July 27, 2018 and $20 the day of the show.
Contact Derek Lumsden | 641-342-4200 | ocms@iowatelecom.net 72
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Marketplace
R & R Sports Fin & Feather 3250 Fields Drive 125 Hwy 1 W Bettendorf, IA 52722 Iowa City, IA 52246 563-243-4696 319-354-2200 www.randrsportsinc.com www.finfeather.com Sommerfeld Outfitters The Iowa Outdoors Store Palo Outdoors 330 N Main St 1597 3rd Ave NW 1204 1st Street Lidderdale, IA 51452 Fort Dodge, IA 50501 Palo, IA 52324 712-822-5780 515-955-HUNT (4868) 319-851-5290 www.palo-outdoors.com www.shopsommerfeld.com www.iowaoutdoorsstore.com
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Land/Auction
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Seiler Appliance 410 Sumner Ave Humboldt, IA 50548 515-332-3836
Adel & Winterset TV & Appliance Co. 916 Main St. Adel, Iowa 50003 515-993-4287 tammy@adelwintersettv.com www.adelwintersettv.com https://www.facebook.com/adtv4287/
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Harbor Recreation Inc 807 Harbor Rd Milton, WI 53563 608-884-6007 www.harborrec.com
July 2018
Holiday Shores Marina 3901 River Rd Wisconsin Dells, WI 53965 608-254-2878 www.holidaywatersport.com
Millers Sport Center Inc 24565 Zier Rd Lanark, IL 61046 815-493-6401 www.millerssport.com
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Northeast Minnesota Northern Minnesota
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Central Minnesota
1886 Hwy 20 • Lawton, IA 51030 712-944-5751 • www.ssequip.com 76
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Classifieds
DEER PROCESSING/ MEAT LOCKER
OUTFITTERS
POND MANAGEMENT
Guided Northern Minnesota Black Bear Hunts
CasCade 5000 Floating POND FOUNTAIN! Aerator Now Available Factory Direct! FAST UPS shipping right to your door! www.fishpondaerator.com Call 7 days/week! (608) 254-2735 Complete with light & timer, 100 ft power cord, 1yr warranty! Pre-Assembled - Installs in Minutes! Elegance & Improved Water Quaility $698.95 “$ave Hundreds!”
LAND AUCTIONS
Minden Meat Market Don’t Forget Us For Processing Your Deer! HUSH Program Participant. 315 Main St. - Minden, IA. 712-483-2836
FIREARMS DEALERS Daryl’s Gun Shop 1267A 240th St. State Center, IA 50247 641-483-2656 darylsguns.com
GOODS & SERVICES Lake or Pond? Aeration is your 1st step toward improved water quality. Algae Reduction, de-icing, attract wildlife, etc. Also - High efficiency water fall pumps 11,000 gph flow - only 3.6 amps!! CHECK OUT OUR GREAT PRICING ON TOP QUALITY POND PRODUCTS!!! www.fishpondaerator.com 608-254-2735 • Open every day!
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RESORTS REAL ESTATE
TAXIDERMY
River Bluff Rustic Log Cabin,
GUNS & ACCESSORIES Fireice Firearms Gunsmithing & Firearm Sales 400+ Guns in Stock. Bowtech Dealer, Hunting and Fishing Licenses. Pella Security Safes Available. All Major Credit Cards Accepted. Cherokee, IA 712-225-2213 • fireicefirearms@yahoo.com
July 2018
3.6 acres, 16x30, Great hunting cabin, vast state lands a short hike away, electric, no well, no septic, rain catch system for water with pump , composting toilet, Amish built with addition, 2 loft bedrooms. No neighbors close by. Drone Video available. $59,900 Listing #1430
Rush Creek Realty De Soto, WI 888-942-6644 www.rushcreekrealty.com
We help you make your dreams come true! Small classes and dedicated to bringing out your full creative potential with the latest and best techniques.
Hutton Valley School of Taxidermy, 2514 Victory Ln, St Charles, IA 50240. (641) 396-2760 huttontx@netins.net www.huttontaxidermy.com
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