TWISSST- ISSUE NUMBER ZERO - ENGLISH EDITION by TWISSST

ISSUE NUMBER ZERO

FASHION,ARTS & CULTURE MAGAZINE

By Artur Cabral

Staff Editor in Chief & Creative Director Norberto Lopes Cabaço norberto.lopes@twissst.com Foreign Editors Director Mauro Parisi mauro.parisi@twissst.com Twissst Polish Edition Responsible Weselina Gacińska wese.gacinska@twissst.com Editorial Coordinator Chloè Yakuza Architecture & Art Director Mauro Parisi mauro.parisi@twissst.com Senior Graphic Designer Arturo Jose Vallejo arturo.vallejo@twissst.com Web Broadcast Manager Javier Santamaria javier.santamaria@twissst.com Photography Alvaro Gallego alvaro.gallego@twissst.com Marketing,Advertising and PR Director Norberto Lopes Cabaço norberto.lopes@twissst.com Marketing, Advertising and PR Managers Zuriñe Ojembarrena zuriñe.ojembarrena@twissst.com Eduardo Lozano eduardo.lozano@twissst.com 5

Editors Twissst English Edition Angela Velo Pérez Clare Hodgson Twissst Italian Edition Giulia Chiaravallotti Francesco Marangon Twissst Polish Edition Weselina Gacińska Marcel Nieto-Głowacki Twissst Portuguese Edition Elis Porfirio Bernardo Saavedra Twissst Spanish Edition Elena Arteaga Benedicta Moya Contributors Artur Cabral, Eleonora Maggioni, Elis Porfirio, Laura Parisi, Telma Russo, Carlota Branco.

Twissst Magazine - Head Office Calle Gran Via, 57 7 F 28013, Madrid, Spain Tel: +34 910 072 973 hello@twissst.com www.twissst.com 6

Index Kubik Theatre: an ever evolving ideas lab

The sinous artistry by Zaha Hadid

ModaLIsboa Freedom, shot by shot!

LIFESTYLE & FASHION CULTURE MAGAZINE

Photographers Artur Cabral, Telma Russo and Elis Porfirio show their work invited by TWISSST

TWISSSTÂ´s first city profile: Trieste, a victory for elegance When West meets East. The capsule editorial shot in Warsaw by Daniel Duniak and Grzegorz Korzeniowski Lodz, 120 kms away from Warsaw, the old Polish industrial hub in search of its past glory Fashion Philosophy, once again we have searched for the best Polish design ..... and found it! Culture Calendar, from London to Paris through Venice, the must go for your holidays..

Week and specially to Portugal Fashion Week and Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week.

It is with the natural excitement of someone who premieres a new publication that I write these first words: the introduction to this new Project called TWISSST. Months of planning and preparation are climaxed by the apparition today of the first edition (Number Zero).

cities, museums and expositions that we went ahead when our forces seemed to fall out. All these proposals and creative works helped us to move forward, to look for an identity, to fight for our philosophy and to get a constant renewal. All these items and a critical sprit are part of our DNA; there is no information without rigor and there is not growth without self-criticism. Because of all this and after 270 days full of ideas, we want to celebrate the first pages of TWISSST. We will be back in September with a vaster and more diversified edition. Now, it is time to say “see you” and make a suggestion: visit our website www.twissst.com, share your thoughts and submit your proposals and ideas. Be daring!

After several years writing the blog “Conceito Homem”, an individual project that allowed me to visit numerous European cities and gave me access to different platforms aimed at discovering fresh talent in Fashion and Arts in general, I developed a stronger need to evolve and produce a broader and more in depth editorial line.

TWISSST <3 it ;) Norberto Lopes Cabaço

In November 2011, the idea to build an independent and international media arose. Our intention was to publish a bimonthly magazine in 5 languages (by now) promoting Fashion, Photography, Design and other different areas meshed each other. Since then, every step represented a small or big challenge. To get together a set of people whose availability and knowledge base were suited to the project, to find a space responding to the needs and philosophy of TWISSST, to get the technical means to enable us to develop our work with the rigor and quality demanded, to develop an editorial line or to design a website are little But this is our project and this is the way we want to share our excitement with you. The whole process leads us to the starting point. It makes us to ponder those moments in which platforms and organizations gave us some latitude to promulgate their work. The number Zero of TWISSST is a thank-you note to the help provided to us by the professionals of this sector; to designers, photographers, stylists, press offices; to the Paris Menswear Fashion Week, London Fashion 8

KubiK Fabrik: A new space for theater Arts

Text: Eleonora Maggioni Translation:Clare Hodgson Fotos: Kubik Fabrik

A new and exciting addition to MadridÂ´s thriving independent theatre scene. Kubik Fabrik, a true factory of creativity is an alternative theatre space opened in

October 2010, thanks to the collaboration between the actor and director Fernando Sanchez Cabezudo and some professionals from established Madrid theatres such as Sala Triangulo, Teatro de La Abadía and La Escuela CES. The project was born from a desire to create a space open to artistic creativity in all its genres, where different paths and theatrical styles converge, combining self-produced shows with works from national and international companies such as Baraka Teatro, la Compañia de Danza Arrieri and "Inbox" from the Brazilian Colectivo Quintanda. The theatre occupies 300 square meters of an old industrial warehouse, in the heart of the popular Usera neighborhood on the outskirts of Madrid. It has been lovingly built from scratch by its actors and director, following an already established trend in cities such as London, Paris or Berlin. The result is most definitely exciting… The foyer and bar area is small and inviting, the muted lighting makes it a very cosy space

to enjoy a glass of wine or be tempted by one of the delicious cakes before parting the red velvet curtains and settling down for the show. To the right, black and white portraits and photographs of the actors and contributors transport us to older times. Upon collecting our tickets, we are given a charming memento: a badge depicting the show´s poster. The beauty of this theatre is in the detail, as in the reason for our visit: the play Büro…a comic pantomime with a delicate and intelligent scenography, highlighting modern man´s day to day, showing in a series of comic sketches the sadness and bitterness of such a life. The stage is a cardboard cube that opens to display, like in a children´s book, the dreamlike scenes of the protagonist´s life, the only real actor on stage. We are transported to an anachronistic French office, filled with typewriters and long forgotten briefcases. This is a portrait of the office worker with which many spectators may easily identify.

The trilogy of the Modern Man composed of Büro; Metro Cúbico and El Gran Atasco have been performed twice in 2012, we invite you to have a look at the theatre´s interesting programme and check the website for details: www.misterkubik.com The website also has information of theatre workshops for children and adults.

We highly recommend a visit to this charming little theatre and we allow ourselves one small but important piece of advice: leave yourself plenty of time if you donÂ´t know the area as finding the theatre can be trickyâ&#x20AC;Śthis will give you time to enjoy one of the lovely cakes if you donÂ´t have as much trouble finding it as we did!

All People born equal... than some become Twissster s

Zaha Hadid

A journey through the mistress of shapeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most significant works Text: Mauro Parisi Translation: Clare Hodgson

Riverside Museum. Photo: Andrew Ferrans

A sinuous and curvy body, zinc coating glittering all bold and daring shapes. The Riverside Museum in Glasgow is a tribute to the cityÂ´s golden age during the industrial revolution. With its "metal" multiform roof culminating in a stunning glass faĂ§ade of different height, the museum seems to resound the Glasgow of blast furnaces and docks but, at the same time, the ancient villages, almost Viking fortified areas, with their houses and bell towers. Observing this new museum that since last October overlooks the banks of the River Glyde in Glasgow, we cannot fail to recognize the imprint and the genius of one of the most popular archistars in recent times: the Anglo-Iraqi Zaha Hadid. Riverside Museum. Photo: Julesfoto @ Flickr

Riverside Museum. Photo: Julesfoto @ Flickr

Often stigmatized as a "visionary" and creator of unrealized works, Zaha Hadid in recent years has not only racked up some of the most interesting designs and creations of contemporary architecture (BMW Central Building in Leipzig, MAXXI in Rome, Bridge PaviMAXXI Museum. Photo: MarvelFrance

Bridge Pavilion. Photo: Pnovellon @ Flickr

Evelyn Grace Academy. Photo: Boussir Dou

Acquatic Center. Photo: Zaha Hadid Arquitects

lion in Zaragoza, the redevelopment of the Zorrozaurre area in Bilbao) but has also been awarded with the most prestigious awards in the field (Priztker, Architecture Nobel Prize, in 2004, the first woman to winning it, the Stirling, for two consecutive years; in 2010 for Maxxi in Rome and in 2011 for Evelyn Grace Academy in Brixton).

Louis Vuitton Icone Bag

This creative effervescence has reach its peak in June when her latest and most talked about construction has been finally unveiled to the world, the Aquatic Center for the London Olympics with its corrugated and transparent roof reminiscent of ocean waves and the shapes of certain aquatic invertebrates. Zaha Hadid was originally a mathematician, having graduated in this discipline at the American University of Beirut, she later moved to London to study Architecture in the Architectural Association where she graduated in 1977. Perhaps due to her logical-mathematical background, from the earliest designs, her creations have been influenced by deconstructions of her inspiration: Mies Van de Rohe, Mendelsohn, Le Corbusier and Koolhaas.

Melissa shoes

Flagship store Neil Barret, Tokyo

Lamp Genesys 17

Station in Weil am Rhein, Germany, in 1993 focused the architectural worldÂ´s interest in her constructive proposals and her second project, the Rosenthal Center for Contemporary Art in Cincinnati, USA, in 1998 marked her definitive consecration. Hadid style has quickly achieved a strong personality, and the use of light volumes, angular or pointed forms, shapes of lights and shadows have become the hallmarks of her work. To Zaha Hadid, interconnection between the space and the object becomes a permanent imaginative experimentation; her architectural creations do not end with the design of a functional space for activities but rather seek a dialogue with the surrounding space; a conciliatory or disruptive dialogue - it depends - but never dull, insipid or, the worst for a great architect, repetitive and predictable; this is why we admire and eagerly follow her artistic production.

MAXXI Museum. Photo: Mark Hogan

An interest in the elegance of the form as a whole has driven Hadid on several occasions to projects such as interior design,

Hotel Puerta de America, Madrid.

industrial and product design and these incursions have created real works of art where functionality is transfigured in the beauty of forms: the decor in the Hotel “Puerta de America” in Madrid, the Neil Barrett Store in Tokyo, the lamp “Genesy” for Artemis, the Melissa shoes, the sofas for Sawaya & Moroni, the Louis Vuitton “Icone Bag” are just some of the most famous; in all of them we find the overwhelming vitality of her lines, the sensual force of her shapes and materials and the regenerative charging of colors. Everything in her production speaks of an artist capable of dealing with the current changing world, a woman determined and decided in her choices and statements, like the following one to the web magazine “designboom.com” responding to a question about the potential threats that may lie in our societies in the future, she clearly identifies: “..the conservative values that are emerging, it may not affect architecture immediately but it will affect society and that's what worries me. The World is looking more and more segmented; the difference between people is becoming greater. One has to strive for a very open liberal society.”

MODALISBOA LISBOA FASHION WEEK Created in 1991 when in Portugal, Fashion and Design were exclusive concepts discussed by few, this organization gradually started to promote critical spirit and the creation of collections that, gradually, made increase national and international press attention and tion. In a four-day event, Modalisboa appears twice a year – March and October - presenting the best of Portuguese Fashion Design, designers and both national and international brands. Winter 2013 collections were presented under the theme “FREEDOM”. There were three different locations where the show took place: Paços do Concelho, where the most innovating design in the field of LAB platform was presented. There, we saw SAYMYNAME, VÍTOR, DANIEL DINIS, RICARDO ANDREZ, MARQUES ALMEIDA and VALENTIM

BALTAZAR, NUNO GAMA, PEDRO PEDRO, ALEXANDRA MOURA y FILIPE FAÍSCA showed their collections. There were presented 22 collections for Winter 2013: twenty-two different proposals for the same season and 22 different interpretations of the theme chosen by Modalisboa for this Winter. "FREEDOM" to be what we want the most is undoubtedly the best concept for a fashion designer to develop. For the last 21 years, Modalisboa, with its mother Eduarda Abbodanza, has aimed to defend the ideological and conceptual pluralism and the promotion and the disclosure of creative freedom with a freshness only available at the fingertips of a few. Thank you to its pathway, Modalisboa has earned an “X” in the Fashion Week

Norberto Lopes Cabaço Praça do Município, where RICARDO DOURADO, KATTY XIOMARA, OS BURGUESES and WHITE TENT presented their collections. The same did PIOTR DRZAL, invited because of the partnership with Fashion Philosophy, Fashion Poland Week. Pátio de Galé, where LIDIJA KOLOVRAT, LUIS BUCHINHO, DINO ALVES, RICARDO PRETO, MARIA GAMBINA, MIGUEL VIEIRA, NUNO

ModaLisboa: Fotography: Rui Vasco Texts: Norberto Lopes Cabaรงo Translation: Angela Velo

By Elis Porfirio 21

Nuno Gama

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Born in Azeitão (April '66), Nuno Gama left Lisbon to Oporto at 20 to study Fashion Design in the most suitable place in Portugal, CITEX. Determined by nature and still as a student, he accepted the proposal for designing two collections, one for women and the other one for men. His career had begun. In 1993, he created the brand «Nuno Gama» and the response to his work came 22

in the form of a Golden Globe and a «7 de Ouro» award. Still faithful to the ModaLisboa calendar, Nuno Gama was also present at exhibitions in the Louvre and at the «Men in Skirts» event in Madrid. Besides to the work done with the brand, in 2009 he designed the uniforms of the Porto Norte tourist region and the Hotel Mercure in Oporto. The same year, he was invited to the Fashion Week Angola's platform and established a partnership for a new distribution in the footwear sector with "«Eureka», a brand that remains today. 2010 was a year equally positive: presentation of his Winter collection at Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week and Angola Fashion

Week, for the second time. The savoir faire that the industry recognizes him, reopened him the doors in the design of corporate uniforms, this time for the Club Creme and S.JoĂŁo Hospital or the Intercontinental Hotel. His latest project is the opening of a second store, ÂŤNuno GamaÂť, in one of the most central areas of Lisbon. There are many reasons that suggest an equally positive 2012 year for Nuno Gama. For winter 2013, he presented a more sober and restrained collection than usual, especially visible in the more traditional forms of blazers construction, cleaner and accessories downloaded. Exclusivity lies in the composition of the pieces; dense wool and cashmere sought to reserve the sphere of luxury customer. Even if Nuno Gama reduces the intensity,

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

the essence remains, as in a dish in which you can savor the thinner and lighter nuances and new feelings emerge by minimizing its strength. We do not know if it will be a definite change or if Nuno Gama draws a new line with «Be God's» (an anagram that tells that by itself), but we understand that it will not. can define with a sentence is: «Expect the unexpected».

Katty Xiomara

Originally from Venezuela, she arrived in Portugal at 18 and settled in Oporto. After graduating in CITEX, she was a student of the designer Maria Gambina. Since an early age, she left a mark on Portuguese Fashion industry. At just 22, she won the first prize at "Porto Moda" and presented her collection at Portugal Fashion. In addition, she created some of the corporate uniforms for Pizza Portugal. Aware of Fashion as a business needing visibility, she opted for the internationalization of her brand by participating in numerous events in Angola, Spain,

USA and Japan. She currently shares the designer activity with Clothes Design teaching in CITEX. Her latest collection in ModaLisboa, «Futuralma», kept the «preppy» spirit, characteristic of Xiomara's work. The darker tones and volumes presented have though given a more serious fitness to the collection. The wearing comfort, its styling and the creation of a «nude color trench» in this collection have earned her a loud and well-deserved applause.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Born in Lisbon in 1976, moved to Oporto where he graduated in Fashion Design in Citex. In 1996 and 1997, he won yearly «Jovens Criadores», a prize from Maxim magazine. Besides, Baltazar won other prizes and «Porto Moda '97». In 1999, he created the «Cravo.Baltazar» label with his own brand «Nuno Baltazar», he began a career full of successes. do's public image, popular presenter in Portuguese television and ONU Ambassador. He is also responsible for the image of various high personalities of the Portuguese musical sphere. In 2008, he designed a new project in partnership with Vítor Almeida, named «Baltazar MAP»: an interior design project with a furniture and lighting brand. His indisputable talent gives to the Portuguese fashion scene a classic beauty and a pured femininity, redefined and with an almost poetic sensibility, characterized by rigor and forms of a sober contemporary. Maybe inspired by high couturiers, the designer created an additional brand: «Nuno Baltazar Atelier». The confections are in tune with

Nuno Baltazar

headquartered in Boavista Avenue in Lisbon,

in a three storey building. All clothes, accessories and furniture present in the building brings to mind the creative universe of Baltazar. With the collection «The Man I Love», Nuno Baltazar invite us to discover a little bit of himself. In his opinion, each collection is an occasion to share. This time, he offers a personal vision of Pina Baushc (1940-2009), famous

German choreographer and dancer who transmitted human emotions by dancing. Pina Bausch's piece «Nelken» (1982) is the inspiration for Nuno Baltazar for Winter 2013. The palette remains faithful to the Maison Baltazar and silhouettes characterize by movements and H lines, something Baltazar feels comfortable with. Baltazar has become a Portuguese fashion talent, recognized and respected: a developing project who mets all the qualities, requisites and skills needed to step forwards towards a new concept in the Portuguese market; luxury as a demonstration of strength and creativity in line with the high figures of the International Fashion... ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013

Os Burgueses

tember 2009 by the design duo Pedro Eleuterio and Mia Lourenรงo (1985). Originally from Lisbon and graduated in Fashion Design at the Faculty of Architecture of Technical University of Lisbon, they held a joint project of author clothing creations. This project was born inside the artist association ARTinPARK, where they could settled their own atelier. In 2009, Os Burgueses organized their

2011, they were released in ModaLisboa. Winners of Portugal Fashion Awards 2011 for ÂŤBest New TalentÂť, the course of these two promising and young fashion Portuguese designers has just begun. The proposal for Winter 2013 was consistent and balanced: clean cuts in fine

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

materials and sober coordinates in which rigor and modernity appear to have been sewn with teachers needles.

Miguel Vieira

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013

of the most appreciated and famous Portuguese designers. Plenty of achievements, both in national and international fields, prove it. He started working as a fashion designer in 1986 and within only two years he launched his own collection for women, ÂŤMiguel VieiraÂť.

In 1989, Miguel launched his own collection for men, «Miguel Vieira Homem» and in 1994, his first shoes collection for men. The next year, he presented an accessories collection for women. solidation of the brand in the international market. In 2004, the designer opened his first store «Miguel Vieira Casa» and started collaborating with That same year, Vieira was invited to present his Week and received the Golden Globe Award for «Best Fashion Designer».

In the following three years, Miguel Vieira showed Fashion Week. In 2007, he won the Golden Globe for «Designer of the year». Miguel Vieira's dressmaking and the chromatic basis of his collections have become an unmistakable mark of the designer. Characterized by a clean dressmaking and an indisputable sobriety, Miguel Vieira works the concept of luxury from a visible and palpable perspective, reinterpreting the classic fabric lines to create pieces of great modernity and elegance. For Winter 2013 proposal, «Dressing Fado», Miguel Vieira reaches back to early 20th century Portuguese roots, to the feeling and the essence as the basis for renewal. The same as «Fado», timeless and undeniable contemporary, the collection is characterized by silhouettes full of personality, sophisticated and glamorous. The palette goes from caviar black or shitake brown to lake green or lipstick red. Aesthetics sense is impeccable. If saudade cannot be defined, nor experienced, Fado must be experienced to be felt.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Filipe Faísca

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Filipe Faisca got his diploma of Fashion Design from IADE (Lisbon, 1989). While studying, he participated in Manobra de Maio and only two years after, he presented his first own collection at Lisboa Fashion Week. In 1992, he opened his own Atelier and soon after, he started working as assistant at Ana His refined aesthetics sense gave him the opportunity to work creating clothing for cinemas, theaters, operas and ballets. He also created uniforms for the employers of Lux rant in Lisbon (highly recommended). After 14 years hiatus, Faisca returned in 2006 to Lisbon Fashion Week. The same year, he started a partnership with Hermès to led the artistic department in the opening of its stores in Lisbon and Algarve and those of Fashion Clinic in Lisbon and Oporto. In 2008, Filipe won the Golden Globe for «Best Fashion Designer». In 2011, he started a collaboration with Trium-

ph that continues until today. For Winter 2013, Felipe Faisca presents «Grief», where everything, from forms to volumes, from set design to styling, raises the concept of fashion to levels more characteristic of the best international gateways. With a truly amazing parade start and by using XL-sized umbrellas, «head scarves» in plastic heads and hand-painted socks in the skin, the closure of the Lisbon Fashion Week was right on the top. There will always be space for Felipe Faisca, his boldness, his creative tear and his ability to create figures that explain why Fashion is Fashion.

Faisca designs for confident and self-confident women, sure of themselves and of what they represent. When Fashion has the ability to convey emo-

tions, we face to a different sphere: maybe because Faisca gets overcome in each edition, maybe because of the feeling generated by the love for Fashion, the fact is that we can not remain outside it. This feeling flowed naturally from the public, who answered in their best: standing up... and giving him a warm applause!

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

LuĂs Buchinho

Born in SetĂşbal, Luis Buchinho graduated in CITEX (Oporto) in 1989. Since then, its journey in Fashion has become progressively more important and been recognized by national and international criticism. He presents his collections at the same time at the Paris Fashion Week, ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion in Oporto. For Winter 2013, Buchincho inspires in the Portuguese road: the common denominator that covered patterns, prints and colors ranging from black to silver and blue. Urban, perfect and extremely feminine proposals, built with quality materials, were greeted with warm applause in the first day closing at ModaLisboa... TWISSST <3 it!

Dino Alves

Born in Anadia in 1967, he studied Paint at the Polytechnic Institute of Oporto and Photography at the INEF.

After collaborating with the Department of Cinema and the Museum of Cinema in Lisbon, he participated in the event «Manobras de Maio» - broadcast platform for young designers - with the project «Pós de Maio». He also worked on various styling and fashion production projects and created costumes for theater and advertising productions. Defined as the enfant terrible of the Portuguese Fashion industry, Dino Alves presented for Winter 2013 «Sombra Brilhante», a collection made on the basis of shadow-light duality and his interpretation of silhouettes and play of colors.

The layout of the collection, extremely nice as usual and the deep attention to colors and prints, prepared us for a winter of strong proposals, both for women and men's clothing.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco 45

Piotr Drzal

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Born in Glogów Malopolski, a small town in southern Poland, Piotr Drzal (1984) graduated in Fashion Design in the Academy of Art in Lodz, host city of Fashion Philosophy and Poland Fashion Week. He gained experience working in Georges Hobeika's atelier as an assistant. Despite his young age, his practice and stylistics vision was prized by the juries of «Golden Thread», new designers supporting contest sponsored by Fashion Philosophy. ModaLisboa invited Drzal to present his collection in the context of the exchanging program between ModaLisboa and Fashion Philosophy's runways: not a disappointment at all! The union between sportswear comfortability and the lines rigor characteristic of artesian fabrics create a perfectly coordinated atmosphere. There is also space for the highly appreciated «amish clean» and black filter hats, giving this collection a plus of modernity. Piotr presented «Go, Now, Here», a men collection including some clothings for women.

ÂŤGo, Now, HereÂť is mostly equilibrated with printed silks and alpaca furs that reveal attention to details and to create luxurious and structured pieces. Key pieces for men closets such as shirts and blazers have been redefined and innovated in details and forms, always by respecting the fashion golden rule: the wearability. The lack of jackets and coats, something unusual for a Winter Collection, was solved during the following weeks in Fashion Philosophy and Poland Fashion Week. Piotr Drzal is a remarkable figure.

Despite his young age and short career, he has demonstrated a dressmaking ability and a sophisticated taste in colors combination. Finally, but not least important, Piotr Drzal owns a fundamental characteristic in the fashion industry: the capacity of listening and rectifying when needed. TWISSST <3 it!

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

White Tent

Evgenia Tabakova and Pedro Noronha-Feio form White Tent. Graduated at Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion, since 2007 White Tent has presented its proposals in ModaLisboa. For Winter 2013, the brand remained loyal to its creative line: a minimalist urban universe that

puts comfort and convenience over accessories. Mesh jersey was the driving element of this new proposal, mainly in copper, black and blue tones

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Born in Lisbon in 1973, Alexandra Moura studied at the IADE University and then majored in Fashion Design Projects.

Alexandra Moura

Since an early age, Moura took part in different projects for dissemination of new talents and fashion in general: Manobras de Maio and Portugal Fashion. She also collaborated with Ana Salazar and Jose Antonio Tenente. In 2000, Optimus invited her to

present her first own collection and since 2002, Alexandra takes part regularly in the official platform of ModaLisboa. In 2003, she created the «Wereable Design» project within Experimenta Design, designed clothings for Lusoponte S.A. and started teaching at the ESART (Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas) in Castelo Branco until nowadays. In 2006, Moura presented her collections for Winter 06/07 and for Summer 07 in Bread & Butter (Barcelona). The same year, she was nominated for Golden Globe Awards: Best designer. In 2010, through the MUDE, she participated at the FITUR (Madrid) as an invited designer. Alexandra Moura is the only Portuguese designer appearing in the following books: «Atlas of Fashion Designers» (2009), «Mapa da Moda Contemporánea» (2011) and «Fashion Design Source Book» (2011).

For Winter 2013, Moura has created a collection full of contrasts, decreasing intensity and blacks leading to softer forms and floral motifs. Moura's palette has also been carefully worked: glossy and matte colors, blacks and whites; silhouettes go from conceptual perspectives, with plenty of space around the body as if levitating, to a more serene vision. Fabrics are more ethereal adorned with floral motifs that caress the body. Writing about Alexandra Moura is talking about an introspective Fashion vision; it's the soul of the designer reflected in every piece, styling and collection, not an essay or a textile proposal. That's how winter presents for Alexandra Moura: ÂŤBitter...sweetÂť.

Lidija Kolovrat

Originally from Zenica, Lidija Kolovrat arrived in Portugal at 28 and quickly became a prominent artist, exhibiting her video-art creations in various galleries and museums. With a background in Cinema studies at the Film Academy and Fashion Design at the Design and Technology College, both in Zagreb, Lidjia is an artist who combines the best of the know-how of the various trends she worked in. With ÂŤI See Myself in Your EyesÂť, the designer wanted to emphasize once more time

her interest in the introspection of movements and forms; opposites and contrasts have walked close resulting particularly interesting for men's clothings.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Pedro Pedro

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Pedro (1973) graduated in Fashion Design at the Fashion Academy of Oporto in 1997 after studying Paint and Painting Techniques on Silk. He began his professional career in 1996 and the same year Pedro won the first Prize at the «New Expo-Wear Designers» competition. He started doing fashion illustrations and got involved in several projects related to the industry: skirts, jean lines and streetwear for men. In 1998, he created the «Pedro Pedro» brand and participated at the «Porto de Moda» and «Portugal Fashion». In 2003, he won the first Prize at the «I Mode You, European Fashion Awards», in Brussels. In 2004, he launched the «Pedro Waterland» brand in partnership with Julio Waterland, which was shown at the Portugal Fashion and ModaLisboa. In 2006 and 2007, he presented his collections at the Paris Fashion Week. Meanwhile, he relaunched his «Pedro Pedro» brand by presenting it every year since his Spring/Summer collection for 2008. Pedro Pedro's collections are usually present at ModaLisboa events and it's indeed, a collection «à voir». 56

His proposals are an array of ultra-feminine pieces: elegant but modern, young and in fashion. In Pedro Pedro's ÂŤUrban MixÂť collection, the designer bets on functionality. The Winter 2013 collection is clearly urban, introducing new textures in those old school materials always present in women's closets; tweeds and brocades meet new finishes and accessories reinforce the dynamism of looks. An extraordinary palette of colors like royal blue, brick and cinnamon add warmth to a collection designed for cold. High quality materials and the sensibility used to create each piece results in perfectly coordinated pieces allowing not only their conjunction, but also with pieces of previous collections. Functional, current, conceptual and contemporaneous. Pedro Pedro is a talented designer; rigor when creating and high stylistic sensibility prove his deep knowledge of today women needs.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Ricardo Andrez

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Young and irreverent, Ricardo Andrez was born in Oporto and studied at the Ă rvore School and CITEX in the same city. With men's clothing as a research object, his collection is entirely based on the sportswear's universe. Since Andrez created his brand in 2006, it has gradually develo-

ped. In 2008 and 2009, Ricardo was invited to present his collection at the Cibeles Fashion Week (Madrid) and at the Barcelona Fashion Week. Only one year after, he integrated at the ModaLisboa LAB platform. He awarded several prizes in Portugal, Spain and Germany. During the years, Andrez has developed a style received with great interest by the critics, who define it as ÂŤa parade to seeÂť. And this time in Lisbon, was not an exception. Designer's playfull philosophy is always present: an excellent range of colors characterizes his loose fit forms and sometimes, he has demonstrated his potential by confectioning very interesting pieces. In each edition, Ricardo Andrez proves more consistency and stability between conceptual collections and more accessible proposals. Because Fashion not only exists by walking through the streets, let's welcome Ricardo Andrez to the Side A of the business.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Maria Gambina

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013

Born in Oliveira de AzamĂŠis (April, 1969), she studied Paint in the Academy of the Fine Arts and in 1992, she graduated in Fashion Design in Oporto. 60

design de Moda no Porto no ano Twice winner of «Sangue Novo», new designers contest promoted by ModaLisboa, Maria has an extended CV working in both national and international fields. Her capacity to offer very different visual proposals in each season made her gain this high recognition. The mixture of influences compo-

sing her imaginative creative is clearly reflected in her collection for Winter 2013, «Otherness». Maria Gambina has inspired her collection with music and urban culture, enriching it with print author and hockey styling, redefining its forms. More conceptual than in previous collections, this one results more artistic than «Ready to Wear»:

ModaLisboa / Fotografia: Rui Vasco super-enhanced shoulders and silhouettes which are both very short and extra-large. In short, a Maria Gambina at its best! .

Daniel Dinis

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Settled in Frankfurt, Daniel Dinis (1981) graduated in Fashion Design at the ÂŤLatte VereinÂť in Berlin in 2004. The following two years, he worked as an assistant for Dino Alves. He has carried out styling for theater,

television and fashion consulting for several brands. sporty pieces on a classic base silhouette. With ÂŤ13Âť, he revisited the sportswear universe providing some reminiscence of past winter 2012. This time, Daniel Dinis has used materials from past collections creating patchwork pieces, structured silhouettes and volumes characteristic of severe winters; but in some cases, because of brown and copper colors, these pieces point to autumn textures.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Gray, blue and orange strokes adorned wool, cotton poplin and twill in a proposal where intensity is present from the first to the last coordinate.

Ricardo Dourado

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013 Irreverent and innovating designer, his collections have always been well received by international critics, especially by more experimental fashion bastions. Born in 1980, he graduated in Fashion Design in Citex (Oporto) with only 23 years. Since 2004, he is regularly present in ModaLisboa, presenting yearly his collections in both editions. With a Golden Globe nomination for Best Designer in 2010, Ricardo Dourado has participated in regular partnerships with other designers, in the area of styling for several magazines and designing the clothing for ÂŤBuzzÂť, a contemporary dance company. Dourado, aware that the defense and identification of his style needs an international representation, is always participating in different events and platforms devoted to promote new talents. This allowed him to present his collections in Bread & Butter (Barcelona, SIMM (Madrid) and Bickfant (Viena). For Winter 2013, Ricardo Dourado presents an entire legion of urban soldiers walking the city defending their convictions: intensive coordination, dualist and fluid forms that exalt move64

ments; from superposed pieces to minimalist finish and lightness. Ricardo Dourado presented an extensive collection and the palette is also dual: blacks and whites, brilliant and metalized colors. Dourado presented and won. Once again, the designer went on and on and won the approval of the public.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Valentim Quaresma

Valentim Quaresma lives and works in Lisbon. Between 1987 and 1991, he studied in Antonio Arroio's atelier and in jewelery Arco's department. Between 1989 and 2001, he worked in partnership with Ana Salazar by creating jewelery and accessories for her collections. In 1994, Quaresma won the European ÂŤYoung DesignersÂť competition in plastic arts and in 2002, he began a partnership with Christian Lacrois Haute Couture in the jewelery department. 66

Since then, the brand knew an unlimited internationalization and he presented several collections in several events such as the Salon Première Classe (Paris), the Showroom in ModaLisboa, Circuito Portugal, Bread & Butter (Barcelona), 080 Barcelona Fashion and Moment (Latvia). In 2011, the designer presented his collections at the Fiat Showroom (Marylebone, London) and he was invited to participate in the official calendar of ModaLisboa by launching

ModaLisboa / Fotografia: Rui Vasco

his collection «Alquimia» in Lisbon MUDE. After the exposition «Estado de espirito» in the Museum of Natural History (Luanda) by ModaLisboa, Valentim presented his collection for Winter 2013, «Virus». An exceptional jewelery proposal that combines technology, rigor and vanguard designs. The theme of the collection is treated from different points of view, forms and solutions. Pure, sharp and heartbreaking; how pop icons will react to Valentim Quaresma's collections? While waiting, we can only say... TWISSST <3 it!

Saymyname

The brand created by the designer Catarina Cerqueira, debuted in 2002 with the support of ModaLisboa, who invited her to show her work in Design Lab, showroom created to support young designers. Since then, Saymyname has collaborated with many other brands. After a break of five years, in 2007 the brand experienced an important development that has led it to be present in different catwalks. The proposal for Fall/Winter 2013 is her first one in the official ModaLisboa calendar and as such has been conceived and lived with a special illusion. The samurai, loyal and disciplined, was the driving element of a collection where shapes and volumes suggest a feeling of protection and security. Black started being the predominant color and was gradually reducing at the same time the colors palette was increasing, from copper to gray and lavender.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

V!tor

Vitor Bastos was born in 1986 in São Paulo and moved to Portugal at 18. Oporto was the city chosen by Vitor and CITEX where he attended his training in Fashion Design. Still as a student, he participated in «Jovens Criadores» and in 2009, he was chosen to represent Portugal in

«International Biannual Young Creators». In Berlin, he completed his internship at Bless. Vitor Bastos is currently Chief Creative of V!ITOR and at the same time, he works in partnership with brands like Adidas and Bic. The «Carbon Copy», consulting firm leading textile sector, is another asset of this young and atypical designer. With «Life and Death», the proposal for Winter 2013, he opted for continuity with the previous spring/summer collection. He maintained a sporty profile but with darker connotations: perhaps a result of the trip made to the imagery

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco of the controversial artist Mariana Abramovic through her work based on the celebration of death. Brief, a more radical proposal but always remaining true to V!TOR.

Marques Almeida

ModaLisboa FREEDOM Fall - Winter 2013

Marques Almeida is the London-based brand created by designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. Once Marta Marques graduated in Fashion Design in Citex (Oporto), she started a partnership with the designer Alexandra Moura; meanwhile, Paulo Almeida started his career in Luis Buchinho's Atelier. After this period ended, they both moved to London where they gained experience at Vivienne Westwood and Preen's ateliers. Their union to create a new common project was born at Central Saint Martins, where both were majoring. In the last edition of ModaLisboa, Marques

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Almeida presented a collection whose costumes were based on the pursuit of youth identity. The collection is characterized by undefined pieces and asymmetric forms. It gets more consistent in mohair knits; the dresses invite to tact and soften the intensity of forms and volumes. At the same time, the yellow palette strengths and awake interest towards a proposal dominated by black and gray.

Ricardo Preto

He studied Architecture at the Lusiada University in Lisbon and Cutting and Sewing with the sewing teacher Maria Emilia. Successively, he attended the Central Saint Martins in London carrying out a Handbag workshop. As a creator, Preto designed a collection for Amarras and presented two collections at «Manobras de Maio». In 2006, he joined the ModaLisboa LAB platform. Ricardo Preto has completed several styling and fashion production projects and since a long time, he is constant at the official ModaLisboa calendar. In this edition, Ricardo Preto presented «Luz Atlántica», a winter proposal initiated in white and snow tones that grows steadily with the passing of the show. The collection had moments of discontinuous intensity and interest and some faults in casting which, if avoided, would have achieved a more uniform proposal.

ModaLisboa / Fotography: Rui Vasco

Image courtesy of Leica 78

Photography as a language is communication; the subject/object duality is action; a little visual and graphic display of reality through the eyes of a photographer is an objective achieved. We release this section with 3 photographers. Only a few days before Modalisboa started, we challenged 3 experienced and extraordinary different photographers: Artur cover; Telma Russo, presenting us her work and Elis Porfirio, who show us her particular vision. Each work is different, as are their experiences and background. But there is something stronger and more relevant that keeps us together:

Artur Cabral

Born in Lisbon in 1979, Artur Cabral is a self-taught architect and photographer with a natural talent for capturing light and colour.

Text: Bernardo Saavedra Translation: Clare Hodgson Photos: Artur Cabral

After a childhood spent between Africa and Lisbon, digital camera always in hand, he has dedicated more than a decade to architecture. Perhaps due to this constant mixing of cultures, because of the mutual and true respect born of the knowledge of both these realities, and perhaps due to his daring in stopping and questioning where and what he truly wished to create, his images reflect a strong sense of proximity, purity and humanity. He is currently working on a freelance

basis in both disciplines and has produced photographic work for Elite Lisbon, ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion as well as fashion editorials for various fashion and advertising agencies and specialized magazines.

Elis Porfirio Text: Bernardo Saavedra Translation: Clare Hodgson Fotos: Elis Porfirio

Elis Porfírio was born in Évora – Portugal - in 1976, she is electromechanical engineer interested in photography from her early. Self-taught, she approaches each shot as a test of ingenuity and self-improvement. Introspective, or instinctive, his furtive glance is always looking for random events to capture in flash memory. A lover of black and white photography, she sometimes inserts shots of color reinterpreting them as pieces of a puzzle. Each shoot is for her an opportunity to recreate cinematic contexts where visually minimalist poems can flow.

Elis has already realized several works with fashion blogs, as Conceito Homen, and she is one of TWISSST boost on author photography. 91

A wide eyed photographer, she demonstrates the introspective vision of one who contemplates photography not as an end but as

Telma Russo

Text: Bernardo Saavedra Translation: Clare Hodgson Fotos: Telma Russo

a beginning. Her path reveals a restless and constant evolution that can be

appreciated and contrasted through her work. Aged just 25, she has studied Styling at the Escola de Moda in Lisbon and has graduated in Photography at the

Escola TĂŠcnica de Imagem e ComunicaĂ§ao (ETIC). Her next port of call has been London where she has enrolled in Central Saint Martins to specialize, of course, in photography. She defines herself as a Conceptual and Fashion photographer; she is a usual contributor to ModaLisboa where she has developed backstage work as well as Booking and VideoLook for established Portuguese Fashion creators such as Dino Alves or Miguel Vieira. 97

Fernando Pessoa used to say: “travel is the traveler”. A true quote, considering that even in a group trip, all the participants retain their own perceptions, influenced by their experiences and their own sensibility. On the basis of this idea and staying true to our philosophy, TWISSST will offer in every edition some notes of the travels that inspired us, either extraordinary or just different, and such as, relevant and of common interest point of view. This time, we visited Trieste, in northeastern Italy. A charming city where you can breathe omnipotence and the particular influence congregating all the provinces ruled under the Habsburg Monarchy. Also worthy of importance is Lodz, approximately 120 kilometres south-west of Warsaw and host city of Fashion Philosophy, Fashion Week Poland. Apart from the traditional “package tours”, Lodz surprises us with its character and with the streets.

Image courtesy of MATC

Trieste, The elegance of discretion

a stroll through an unexpected Italy Text: Mauro Parisi Translation: Clare Hodgson

Piazza Unita dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia from Audace dock. Photo: Mauro Varagnolo

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Trieste has a grim charm.If liked it, is like a sullen and greedy boy blue eyed and with hands too large to give flowers; as a jealous love. Free translation of “Trieste”, Umberto Saba (1883 – 1957) 101

To Umberto Saba, one of the most important

Italian poets of the Novecento, Trieste appeared thus, as a person of extremes, unable to modulate her feelings, a true original. Trieste is one of the most fascinating and intriguing cities in Italy, at a crossroads of different worlds and influences, a city of many frontiers, not only geographical but also historical and cultural.

At the most Easterly point of Northern Italy, on the shores of the Adriatic, the city swiftly developed towards the Slovene border as if not accepting the limitations created by History that luckily the recent membership to the EU has put an end to. The inheritance of the Austro Hungarian Empire is visible all over the city: from the cafĂŠs of the old centre to the meeting places of the numerous cohabitating communities, Lutheran, Calvinist and Anglican churches, one of the largest synagogues of Europe, the Russian Orthodox church of Saint Spyridion with its golden domes are all visual reminders of its past as a free port and city of opportunities. This influence has marked the city with a Mitteleuropean soul capable of inspiring many writers: Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba, James Joyce, Boris Pahor, Enzo Bettiza or Claudio Magris are perhaps the most famous of the many who have found in Trieste the ideal artistic inspiration. Despite being totally Italian, it is very removed from the usual stereotypes of Italy. Trieste is elegant, solar and Mediterranean, especially during the summer when its inhabitants devote themselves to the sea; at the same time it is also reserved, sometimes even icy, and mysterious It is a city which is rarely heard about, as if it werenÂ´t interested in being known, jealous of an intellectual wealth that few cities can boast. It is one of those cities so tightly bound to the literary work of one writer that it has become, with its atmospheres and corners, one more character of his oeuvre. A city view from Audace dock. Photo: Michaela Kobyakov 102

Historically, the cityÂ´s moment of change was in 1719 when the house of Habsburg gave the city the status of free port and planned the urban and architectural development that keeps us looking upwards so as not to miss a single detail of its grand buildings.

In order to explore the city away from the usual tourist routes, we recommend starting by the area close to the port, between the station and the Museo del Mare, representing TriesteÂ´s true spirit. The best point to commence the tour of the city is undoubtedly from the Audace dock, taking in the sea scape and the Piazza dell'UnitĂĄ d'Italia. 103

PREFACIO

Audace Dock. Photo: Mauro Varagnolo

The main square is the true symbol of the city, a majestic terrace sweeping to the sea. One can admire some of the most beautiful buildings of the city: the Palazzo Comunale with its vaguely Byzantine style, the Palazzo Lloyd Triestino, a reminder of the wealth of its merchant bourgeoisie, the Palazzo del Governo and the Palazzo Stratti, housing the emblematic Caffé degli Specchi where you might want to stop for a tea or a hot chocolate and take in the atmosphere in this old meeting spot of writers such as Joyce, Rilke, Saba or Svevo.

Piazza Unità d’Italia during Christmas. Photo: Mauro Varagnolo

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Government Palace. Photo: Ekaterina Madler-Boym

Stepping into the city leaving the sea behind, one steps into a maze of old streets dotted with taverns and bars popular with the locals. Straight off the main square is the old Jewish ghetto of Riborgo, its lively streets (Via delle Beccherie is the main axis) still dedicated to the antiques, old books and restoration businesses. The Cavana area, degraded and dangerous in the past has enjoyed a thoughtful regeneration and is now one of the most interesting districts of the old centre. Passing the Piazza Piccola are the remains of the old Roman theatre from there towards the hill of San Giusto lies the original city. The hill walled until the 1600s is today the best spot especially at sunset, from where to take in the view of the gulf in its full magnificence. On a clear day, the snowy peaks of the Dolomites can be seen. At the top of the hill is the cathedral of San Justo and next to it, the old city castle dating from 1470 which currently hosts temporary exhibitions. Walking back down is the Piazza della Borsa, its solar clock used to signal the end of the stock exchange activities. The square is now at the heart of TriesteÂ´s trendiest nightlife. Further along in the Borgo Teresiano lies another city highlight, the Canal Grande, a stretch of water opening from the sea into the city, dug at the end of the 1600s to enable the unloading of goods from the port straight into the warehouses.

City Hall. Photo: Mauro Varagnolo

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We continue our walk through the Borgo Teresiano, its straight and wide avenues a testament to the cityÂ´s cultural effervescence: the theatres such as the Art Nouveau style Eden or the Politeama Rossetti, the numerous museums such as the National Gallery of Ancient Art, the museum of the Hebrew community or the Modern Art Gallery.

Canal Grande. Photo: Mariella Viola 106

Canal Grande with Saint Antonio Church at the back. Photo: Mauro Varagnolo

Ten minutes north of the city centre and well connected by public transport lies perhaps the cityÂ´s most recognizable building, the Castle of Miramare, built in the mid nineteenth century by the archduke Maximilian of Hapsburg atop of a cliff on the cape of Grignano.

Miramare Caste. Photo: Kozplus

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Its eclectic style harmoniously blends medieval-gothic and renaissance elements and is an example of a luxurious noble mansion in its original décor. Close to Trieste and well worth a visit are Duino, a minute village famous for its castle and for not having street names, and Muggia whose colorful houses are built one on top of the other on cobbled streets leading down to a small fishing port.

Photo: Muggia. German Gutierrez

Photo: Duino. Aksel Siekman

Cafés and historic places: 2. Caffè degli Specchi, founded in 1839, unmissable. 3. Caffé Urbanis in Piazza della Borsa, founded in 1832. 4. Caffé Tommaseo, in Piazza Tommaseo, the oldest of all, opened in1830 in an unmistakable Viennese style. 5. Caffé San Marco, in Battisti 18, a favourite drinking spot of Italo Svevo y and Claudio Magris. 6. Pasticceria Pirona, it hasn´t changed since it opened in 1900. A drink in this caffé beloved of James Joyce (who lived nearby) will transport you to other times. The cake shop, decorated in an elegant Liberty style has been declared an historical venue in Italy.

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Tram of Opcina The historic tram of Opicina begins its route in the Oberdan square and rises almost 400 metres towards the high plain of the Carso, a mixed system of electro-funicular traction enables this ascent. The thrill of the tram, the impressive views over the gulf, -the romanticism of its antique wooden banquettes, and on arrival the caves, the walled churches and the small hidden lakes make this a unique experience. Once on the high plain, it is advisable to visit the Osmizze where the typical products of the Carso such as wines, cheeses and hams can be tasted. These are often housed in the very taverns used by the locals. There is a gastronomic route dedicated to the local wine, the Terrano, taking in 18 -

Photo: Mikelets

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When West meets East

Photographed by Duniak and Korzeniowski in Warsaw, “When West Meets East” resulted in a mix of influences between the most innovative design and the classical “summer” proposal. The faces are fresh and “naïf” are those considering summer as a synonym of floral prints and flip flops. Attitude is the trend chosen by TWISSST for Summer 2012.

Material . 1 studio . 1 rental car . 2 Light Board Operators . 1 stylist . 2 costume assistant . 1 makeup artist . 1 hair stylist . 2 photographers . 4 models . 78 clothes

Left Dress: Ewelina Kosmal Gola Est by es Right Shirt: Lukasz Stepien Gola Est by es 111

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Dress: Viola Piekut 113

Right Collar and Top - Est by es Left Shirt: Lukasz Stepien; Coat: Piotr Drzal 114

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Jacket and pants - Bartek Malewicz; Jewelry: Hi End 116

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Skirt - Shumik 100%; Top - Bartek Michalec Zuo Corp; Collar - Hi End 118

Coat, Shirt and Shorts - Piotr Drzal 119

Shirt - Lukasz Stepien; Blazer: Bartosz Malewicz 120

Production . 623 production minutes . 1246 photos . 64 pre-selected photos . 22 retouched photos after production . 09 edited photos

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the ex-industrial heart of Poland tries to fit in the new Europe. Text: Mauro Parisi Translation: Angela Velo Perez Fotos: Mauro Parisi and George Nejmantowicz

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Located in the central part of Poland and considered the not included in the classic “package tours”. We are talking about one of those cities that, once you visit them, do not pass unnoticed! In fact, we can notice how history has radical and definitiand observing its buildings. Depending on the area and the landscapes we observe, modern city, typical of western provinces; in a city of Midwestern United States; in The Bronx (New York) or even during the socialism, 30 years ago. If we find industries, brick chimneys and big houses from industrial bourgeoisie, with theaters and big warehouses, we will feel like being in the last century, during the Industrial Revolution.

village and became the heart of the Industrial Revolution transformed into the most important textile production center. one of the most densely-populated cities in the world – 13,000 inhabitants/km². The total population was very variated, but Germans and Jews boosted the economic development of the city.

4 Ksiezy Myln - FireStation - George Nejmantowicz

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5 That Golden Age - when the city was dubbed as the to create Utopian cities. We can currently find vestiges Biala Fabryka (White Factory), which houses today a Mill), currently closed for works. Photo Gallery

1 Ksiezy Myln - old factories converted in apartments and lofts 2 White factory 3 Example of Soviet-style architecture 4 Ksiezy Myln - Fire Station 5 Manufaktura 6 Ksiezy Myln - factory in ruins 7 Poznanski Palace 8 Open Air Museum Lodz Wooden Architecture 9 Open Air Museum Lodz Wooden Architecture 10 Open Air Museum Lodz Wooden Architecture 11 Poznanski Palace 12 Schichts House - Piotrkowska 13 Tram on Lodz street 14 Baharier House - Piotrkowska 15 Mural at Bechthold House - Piotrkowska 16 Konstadt House - Piotrkowska 17 Ulica Piotrkowska 18 Sendrowicz House - Piotrkowska 19 Kohn Palace - Piotrkowska 20 Krusche House - Piotrkowska 21 Leon Schiller National School

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Both buildings were built as a response to the new industrial needs of the time and were composed by restrained spaces, factory buildings, houses of the workers and the villa of directors with gardens. Manufaktura is other example. Located in the old

shopping center in the city. dence, a palace that houses today the Museum

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of wealth and luxury achieved by a given sector of the city.

Despite some logistical issues and a certain comcenter of Polish textile production, as witnessed by the many universities and majoring institutes organism responsible for the official platform “Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week” also serves to testify its importance. Fotofestiwal, an international festival of photography, which has launched this year its eleventh edition and meant as one of the most important European festivals in the sector, is also located in

Ulica Piotrkowska, the longest stretching north to south street, with a length of 4.3 km, is the emblem of the city, described by Reymont -Nobel Prize for Literature- in the novel “The Promised Land”. We can focus here some of the most beautiful mansions of the city, which served to dramatize the wealth and success achieved by the owner family and the most elegant buildings. Originally, they housed the kind of stores in vogue between the 19th and 20th centuries in the European cities (you cannot miss the sections between No. 7 and No. 130 and between No. 230 and No. 274, probably among the best sections in the entire street). Ulica Piotrkowska is currently the central axis of the city. A lovely place to walk and enjoy the many restaurants that open sitting places in the middle of the street in summer. We can also observe the sculptures of Leon Schiller, Wladislaw Reymont or Arthur Rubinstein playing the piano by walking through the street.

Nevertheless, to fully understand the current spirit of the city, we recommend to not just visit the typical places, but also to be led by curiosity in order

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to discover lesser-known places; only then, we will be able to capture the essence of a city specially marked by history. The many testimonies of the ancient Jewish popuremind us their weight in the development of the city and their annihilation during the Nazi occupation, when the second largest ghetto in the country, second only to Warsaw, set up.

Other interesting place to visit is, undoubtedly, former residence.

Wajda, Polanski and Kieslowski were among the most recognized students who formed in the School. The existence of legends and references available only in Polish -supposing a barrier to those

tions, original posters from the first Polish films productions and the elegance of a haute bour128

School of Film, Television and Theatre and the Academy of Fine Arts and Design. important range of tropical plants, orchids and palm trees of different species, preserved in â&#x20AC;&#x153;Palmiarniaâ&#x20AC;?, a large glassed greenhouse. The contrast between the lush green inside and the glacial white also a legacy from the Golden Age, being originally part of the

MeblotekaYellow where you can rest after the long walking all along the street. We can enjoy a natural menu and a vanguard 70s are sold at very affordable prices. 129

Texts: Norberto Lopes Cabaço Translation: Angela Velo

Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week. More than 30 shows scheduled to present Winter 2013, three special guest designers, including Nuno Gama (Portugal), over 20 of the most extensive collections presented in the “Designer Avenue” module and 13 other collections showed in the OFF Out Of Schedule; a section presenting avant-garde young designers. 85 models, both women and men, prepared by 38 hairdressers and make-up artists in the backstage, presented 950 silhouettes and 200 pairs of shoes in a 35 meters long catwalk. 3570 minutes of practice and fittings for a barely 20 minutes show, with dozens of journalists from very different countries and the over 6,000 daily visitors.

Fashion weeks when we can observe the natural selection. This platform become one of the biggest fashion events in East-Central Europe. This edition, the absence of uncountable consolidated Polish designers, such as Paprocki & Bzozowski, Luskasz Jemiol, Bohoboco ou Natasha Pavluchenko, did not influence in the incredible number of designers presenting their solicitudes every year.

dangerous. Young designers with a limited expressive course and an injudicious vision of Fashion business being led to a creative spiral, ignoring both the needs of the Fashion market and the possibility of visibility and enhancement in such an event. In this edition, there were 3 of the 13 collections presented captured our attention.

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Texto: Mauro Parisi Tradução: Elis Porfirio

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JOHANNA STARTEK One of the best designers equilibrating concept and product, she studied at the Faculty of Textile and Fashion Despite her early age, Startek was a finalist of the “Fashion Oscars and the Golden Thread Designer” competi-

For Winter 2013, Johanna inspired in Jim Naughten's forms by transposition and nonconformity of the globalist Her collection awards taste's individualism and the taste Volumes give us a feeling of protection; colors and patter-

PAULINA PLIZGA She was also one of the designers greeted with a warm The Paris-based designer presented “TRASH DELUXE”, If we talk about Plizga, then we talk about patchworks and materials to make volumes, both for women and men The collection is characterized by armour-like silhouettes with dark connotations, sometimes toned down with a

She knew how to defend a non-excess concept and

JAROSLAW EWERT Triple finalist of “Re-act Fashion Show” and triple finalist and 2nd prize winner at “Off Fashion”, Ewer is our third finalist because of the combination of colors profusion Even if an individual combination of materials, volumes, colors and forms in the same collection can results com-

Despite the fact of being a very visual collection, we have to admire the practicability of pieces, served to reduce the Ewert is in the right way: there is definition and brand -

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Joanna Startek

Paulina Plizga

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Jaroslaw Ewert

Designers Avenue One of the unique characteristics of Fashion Philosophy, Poland Fashion Week is the ability to present a large array of different designers in each edition. Therefore, it is possible that a fashion designer, who almost took us to tears (in a good sense) in a past edition, do not even show up in the next one. And this particular choice may be a positive or a (very) risky one. Fashion probably keeps a progress view and designers work also lies in proposing a conceptual one. But as a business, Fashion rules are not always so permissive and rarely admit mistakes. A young platform must focus on talent and making it recognizable. This statement should be translated into a “best practice” where the purpose of the disclosure should constitute one of the many elements to be taken into account by designers and the organization; not to be based on the relationship existing between both parties. Maybe that is the reason why some designers decided not to be part of the last edition, despite the fact that the international press coverage involved in an event of this nature is beyond the budget available for many of them. However, for this press coverage to be effective, there is a substantial work to be carried out that the organization did not do. This symbiosis between the designer and the organization, rather than mandatory, is necessary when Fashion moves at dizzying rhythms and the requirements from both parties do not converge. There is not such a thing as Fashion Weeks with no top fashion designers presenting their collections; in the same way, the development of a designer's career is always slower and with a more reduced public when there is no organization promoting the designs. To get success is also important that the collections presented in the different platforms are based on the same editorial policy, promoting both the concept and the development of a line of work enclosing different skills (editorial wills are on the sidelines.) The choice of a proposal must be associated with the election of an appropriate target: media, public and buyers; not with editorial policies, however cool and actual they are or want to be. Fashion is not at the service of magazines, media or sponsors. It is a business full of strategic gurus that understand the needs of the Fashion market and provide answers. The media give everyone access to those answers, create needs and determine the opinions and the status. Actually, they are “decision makers” of already defined, studied and established products. In a country living outside of the global crisis and with an important textile heritage, it is a crime to not take advantage of this juncture to develop a large-scale work.

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2013 WINTER COLLECTIONS Designers Avenue is the true essence of the entire event, embracing the collections of Poland's top fashion designers. Five of the eighteen designers presenting their collections in this module lightened by their innovation, rigor, creative ability and aesthetic sense

LUCJA WOJTALA With an extended academic CV touching different areas, Lucja Wojtala has had much success abroad: the “International Talent Support”, in Italy; the CPD, in Düsseldorf, (Germany); and “Bread & Butter”, in Berlin. Early assistant at John Galliano's atelier, Wojtala tuned the concept and worked the mesh in all the possible ways allowed by this material. With accurate and contemporaneous patterns, she was conspicuous by her originality and ready-to-wear pieces, easy to commercialize. She wisely opted for a mixed and balanced collection, inspired in well-known techniques and remarked her ability to work mesh creating forms, volumes, coats and “lighter” pieces, perfectly associated to each other without being excessive or monotone.

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PIOTR DRZAL Young designer already present at ModaLisboa (Portugal), Piotr Drzal has been able to develop, within only a few weeks, the coat line we missed at the Portuguese platform. Visually stronger and presenting volumes according to the season, Piotr Drzal got reinforced as one of the Polish design promises. His aesthetic sense and his ability to easily work very different materials turn out fresh and creative in an atmosphere where pastel and neutral tones are highly rooted. Drzal unified a wearable proposal and made it clear that menswear possibilities are so numerous and realizable as the creative ability of a designer.

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Graduated of the Faculty of Textile and Fashion at the ted a collection where white and ivory colors were the only painterly elements of a scalpel-cut proposal. Especially concerned about the subtle evidence of women forms, Monika explored the body through the duality of transparencies and curved lines, but simple and elegant at the same time. In a season where volumes and body protection are the equipped the woman with an icy romanticism by giving levity to the forms; this juxtaposition was no stuffy at all and movement took the leading role. Success resides in the balance and, in this season, thought: Why winter means to be dressed with dark tones? As long as there is an alternative, we can actually change that reality. And Monika did it: more than any other designers, she dressed Winter with white and glossy colors in a catwalk resulting too short this edition.

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WIOLA WOLCZYNSKA Fashion designer and stylist, Wiola Wolczynska inspired in the 1920s and presented an urban collection with a “Twissst” in forms and volumes. She embraced a soberer palette and stripped all the lavish accessories from her pieces, creating a ready-to-wear line at its best. Besides these forms and the way they were associated to each other, we were also surprised by the cloche hats. These items would incarnate the garçonne look or perhaps, be inspired by the restless spirit of an Amelia Earhart who crossed the Atlantic in 1927, as a passenger on a Fokker. A truly declaration of intents at the time. As a student of the Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Wolczynska perfectly learned what a “Mood Board” is and has stylized a collection without excess. Comfort, freedom and movement were synonyms of a well-prepared proposal with a rushed stylistic sens. 139

MONIKA PTASEK PTASEK FOR MEN is the menswear collection that Monika Ptasek presented at Fashion Philosophy. The 1950s are her inspiration, creating a clearly young line for a public who finds an opportunity of expression when dressing. Graduate of SEPU (Cracow School of Art and Fashion Design), Monika defines her collections as ambiguous. Feeling more comfortable dressing men, she defends the unisex status: according to the designer, a “boyish or manish look” for a public not facing “too seriously” the different coming situations. High boots and looks moving between the army style and the comfortably oversized one. For Winter 2013, Ptasek presented one of the seasoner “fetish” items and a “must have” in any male wardrobe: the suit. The pivotal piece of menswear has been reviewed and modified by the designer; patterns and colors have lost sobriety in favor of intensity, really vibrant at times. Widely popular with the Polish public, Monika Ptasek lets her imagination fly in every season, creating a line both turning red the most conservatives and helping to develop a very different aesthetic sens from the traditional one that we can find in an avid country of new proposals, concepts and ideas. For Winter 2013, Monika Ptasek proposes... Monika Ptasek at its best!

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Culture calendar

Texts: Laura Parisi, Carlota Branco, Giulia Chiaravallotti Translation: Angela Velo Perez

A Serpentine Gallery de Herzog & de Meuron e Ai Weiwei. (1 June – 14 October 2012, Hyde Park, London)

During the build up to London2012, the first images have been released of the collaboration between architectural studio Herzog & De Meuron and Ai Weiwei: their teams have designed a structure that enables visitors to look under the surface of a park, digging into the built past and rediscovering the traces left by other projects constructed in past editions

for its ecological qualities and its capacity to remind the excavated earth. Twelve columns, as in past Pavilions, are supporting a circular roof of 1.4 meters above ground. There is also a pool of water.

of this event. For the last 12 years, the Serpentine Gallery has challenged the world's best architects to design this modern and contemporary Art Gallery: a temporary structure originally designed to accommodate meetings and lectures in Kensington Gardens and currently become in an attraction in itself.

José Saramago Foundation. (from June, Casa dos Bicos, Lisbon

From June, the Saramago Foundation and the exposition “A semente e os frutos”, are homed in Casa dos Bicos , (Lisbon, Portugal), next to Praça do Comercio, in the center of the Portuguese capital. A unique opportunity to watch hundreds of documents, pictures, paintings and personal writings from the Portuguese Nobel author, who died recently in his last residency, in Lanzarote -Spanish Canary Islands-. A section with interviews to the Nobel winner and the exposition of exclusive editions from his most recognized paintings complete this exposition. 141

13TH INTERNATIONAL ARCHITECTURE EXHIBITION – COMMON GROUNG (29th August – 25th November, Venice)

The 13th Exhibition will bring together the projects of architects, artists, photographers and scholars, being the interest for cities' territories the common denominator. Many European cities, as well as New York -the last 14th May- hold thematic meetings. The official press conference was presented by David Chipperfield and took place in Rome. This 13th Exhibition will be complemented by a total of 55 countries; among them new entries as Angola, the Republic of Kosovo, Peru, Turkey and Kuwait. This year, there are 58 projects scheduled, but not only architectural ones. The selection of participants for this year's Exhibition includes Peter Eisenman, Norman Foster, Eduardo Souto de Moura, Zaha Hadid, Rem Koolhaas, Herzog & De meuron and Kazuyo Sejima, last year's Biennale director. Italy will be represented by Fulvio Irace, San Rocco and Cino Zucchi. All of them responded to the invitation to confront the concept of an architecture focused, not only on the excellence of a building, but also attentive to real and actual societies needs.

Mind the Map: London Transport Museum (18.05 – 28.10) Covent Garden, Londres

London´s Transport Museum´s biggest exhibition of the year is dedicated to one of the City´s icons, the Underground lovingly referred to as the Tube. The exhibition shows how this public transport network has not only shuttled Londoners accross the city, but also served as an important source of inspiration for art, design and cartography. As well as the impressive collection of maps and never seen before historic artefacts the Museum is putting on display a selection of contemporary artwork by artists such as Simon Patterson, Stephen Walter, Susan Stockwell, Jeremy Wood, Agnès Poitevin-Navarre y Claire Brewster an interesting example is Simon Patterson´s “The Great Bear”, a litograph depicting the Tube map with a play on the stations names.

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Joana Vasconcelos in Versailles (19th June - 30th September, Versailles, Paris).

The Palace of Versailles, one of the largest castles worldwide, presents the fifteen most representative pieces of the Portuguese's artist, Joana Vasconcelos. Mounted by Jean Jacques Aillagon, this exhibition - that took about one year and a half to be finished -, is installed within the state apartments and the gardens. It dazzles us with pieces like “A Noiva”, a tampon chandelier or “Marilyn”, a pair of shoes made of lids and cooking pots, symbolizing the emancipation of women. At the entrance of the Parterre du Midi (The South Garden), we find two wrought iron structures representing man and woman: a teapot and a demijohn. Meanwhile, in the Salon de la Guerre and the Salon de la Paix (The War and Peace Salons), we can see the “Red and Black Independent Hearts”. Made of plastic cutlery and decorated with filigree - the characteristic technique of the iconic Portuguese jewelery of Viana -, this work is hanging from the ceiling, representing passion and death. Musical referents have a strong presence in this installation, as we hear Amalia Rodrigues interpreting “Coração Independente” through the audio guides. In this exhibition, we emphasize “Lilicoptère”, an allegoric piece of a current helicopter, covered in pink feathers and Swarovski crystals; and “Perruque”, an unique sculpture standing in a corner of the Chambre de la Reine (The Qeen's Appartment), full of adornments and alluding to Marie-Antoinette's tresses of artificial hair. After Jeff Koons, Bernar Venet and Takashi Murakami, Joana Vasconcelos is the youngest artist to show her art at Versailles. She explained her participation in the introduction text of the exhibition like this: “Interpreting the dense mythology of Versailles, transporting it into the contemporary world, and evoking the presence of the important female figures that have lived here, while drawing on my identity and my experience as a Portuguese woman born in France, will certainly be the most fascinating challenge of my career. Photography: Enric Vives-Rubio 143

THE SCENT OF LIGHTS.WOMEN WORLD IN XIX AND EARLY XX ITALIAN PAINTING (Pinacoteca de Nitis, Barletta, Italy. Open until 9th September 2012)

In this collection, we drive into the typical women reality of the time through the paintings of the greatest painters from the Italian Divisionism and the Macchiaioli movement. Clothes, local traditions and a intimate daily life in a complex and miscellaneous cultural territory are the common denominators of an Art Exposition full of self-portraits, inserted in landscapes and scenes, being capable to evoke historic and literary feelings. Giuseppe De Nittis, Amedeo Bocchi, Alfredo Savini, Vittorio Corcos a Rossi and Giuseppe Pellizza da Volpedo are the stars of an exposition whose particularity resides in the strong and symbolic charge of the represented movements. Indeed, divisionists and the Macchiaioli, both in their own way, use the natural lights and its optical effects of their paintings to transform, by injecting a strong, symbolic and emotional charge, the represented reality.

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September Issue, just around the corner...

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