MAY 2015

ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707 MAY - 2015 | Volume 3 | Issue 5 | Pages 44

Eco-Friendly Textile Finishes: Finishes for Well-being Role of HR in Manufacturing Set-Up Smart technology used for smart textile manufacturing Market Report: Cotton & Fabric

Industrialisation for Rural Upliftment

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EDITORIAL

Agrarian Crisis The landbill has become a powerful weapon in the hands of politicians to make allegations and counter allegations.

The agrarian crisis has no relationship with land bill. The crisis is of frightening magnitude and has spread all over the country and its solution brooks no delay.

The standard recipe to address such problems is to exempted all debts and accumulated interest thereon at a stupendous cost for the country or to announce subsidies for the damage caused to the standing crop; but such solutions are at best a palliative or a measure to earn brownie points at worst, because they fail to address the core issue.

There is no doubt that agriculture is a gamble on monsoon and a hostage of demand and supply equation. A large segment of the country is getting scanty rains and very few agriculture areas can boast of assuredwater supply. If Israel can convert sandy land into a scenic place by adoption of the drip irrigation system, why India has not taken the bold step?

And why agriculture research is not directed to develop seed and saplings to suit different climatic conditions in the countryside? And why soil analysis is not conducted all over the country to advice farmers which nutrients are to be administered for better results?

At the same time, the agriculture insurance scheme must be a sound scheme to compensate farmers for crop failure or slump in prices.

All this is good as far as it goes. But 56 % of Indian population staying in the rural areas will become happy when more numbers of rural population are absorbed in the industry, situated not in towns and cities but in rural areas. At the same time, local population should get opportunities to rise to higher positions. This is the only way to ensure a steady inflow of income for rural population and mitigate their financial problems. This will help rural households to plan the furthure of their kids and have comfortable life. This is inclusive growth.

Shri V.Y. Tamhane Editorial Advisor All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information.

The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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CONTENT Cover Story : Industrialization of Rural Upliftment 9 Cotton Mill industry for the rescue of the farm Sector by V. Y. Tamhane

MAY 2015 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mrs. Bhavana Pore Advertising & Sales Md. Tanweer

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION

Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

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11 Oasis amid arid area, new energy & hope to the people of Anjar, Kutch by Welspun 12 A Shining Example: Sterling contribution of a Cotton Textile Complex by T. V. Bhavadas 14 Rural Development scheme of Govt. of India 16 No dilution of handloom protection News 18 Government News 19 Corporate News 22 Association News Articles 25 Technical Textile : ATE’s Capabilities by Mr. G.V. Aras 27 Technical Paper : Eco friendly textile finish es finishes for well being by Ms. Khushboo Shrimali & Mrs. Ela Dedhia 31 Manufacturing Focus : Role of HR – In man ufacturing set up by Mr. Harish Chatterjee 32 Review Paper : Smart Technology used for Smart textile manufacturing Market Report 36 Cotton 16 Fabric 40 Trade Event Calendar 43 Post Show Report : ITF- DUBAI – APRIL 2015 ADVERTISER INDEX Back Cover : Raymond Back Inside : Birla Cellulose Front Inside : Tyco Page 1 : Linen Hub Page 3: Bajaj Silk Page 5 : SGS Innovations Page 6 : ITMACH Page 7: VHM

Page 8 : Rabatex Page 17- Textile Committee Page 20- Non Woven Tech Page 21- Sanjay Plastic Page 24- Techtexil Page 41- Indiatex Page 42- PRD cotton

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COVER STORY Cotton Mill Industry for the rescue of the farm sector

Shri V.Y. Tamhane The draft Land Bill has ignited ferocious debate in the country with distinct signals to politicise the issue.

The most unfortunate and tragic event of suicide by a farmer from Rajasthan at the APP rally in New Delhi has further complicated the issue.

The horrendous and horrid magnitude of the problem is manifest from the fact that 12,000 farmers have committed suicide as per a report in Sunday Business Standard of 26th April, 2015. The cause for ending life is distress caused by the destruction of crop and the inability to refund borrowed monies. For the entire farming community land is a precious asset and the very idea of compulsory acquisition is abhorrent and hence farmers are opposing the Amendment Bill tooth and nail.

Agrarian crisis Nearly 56% of the population in the country derive its subsistence from agriculture. The gross value- added at factor cost at current prices by the Agriculture in 2011-12 was Rs.18.13 lakh crore. The population in the country in 2010-11 was estimated at 1210 million, which means the average per capita income of 665 million people depending on Agriculture was Rs.thirty thousand only, which is abysmally low. The annual growth rate in Agriculture has remained dismal in many years and it shows a high rate of volatility. For example, after recording a growth in the real value-added at factor cost of 1.5 per cent in 2009-10, it climbed in 2010-11 to 8.3 per cent, the highest rate between1989-90 and 2010-11 and then it suddenly slumped to 4.4 per cent in the very next year, i.e. 2011-12. It means the per capita income in Agriculture is recording sharp ups and downs to the detriment of farmers and landless labourer.

The distress is however caused by many factors.

Low viability is the result of small size of the average holding in the country of 1 to 2 hectares. The fragmentation of the farm continues, unabated when land is transferred from generation to generation, and the negative is so strong that all efforts to increase productivity are exempted. The agriculture crisis must be met with speedy response across the country. Be-

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cause, even one crop failure or crash in prices can destroy the life of farmers.

The avowed policy of Government of any hue is to support farmers and landless labourers. This is done by declaring it a priority sector for lending by banks.

Loans for agriculture are given at the rate of 7 per cent.

Besides, certified seeds , manure, fertilizers, water and power are supplied at subsidized rates. All this should be intensified to the extent possible. However, the national economy imposes a limit up to which subsidization can take place.

The other aspect is to increase land productivity, which depends upon the texture of the soil, availability of water through dependable sources, and favourable weather. The marginal size of farm lands in our country is a serious impediment to the growth in productivity. A co-operative approach to farming may overcome the problem of small-size farms. But it is easier said than done, and does not appear to be practical.

Another approach could be to bring lands under corporate management. This proposal is also based with many problems & worries.

The way out is to adopt four pronged strategy: 1-A sound insurance scheme should be introduced to arrest the distress impact of crop failure or slump in prices. There should be no need for farmers to request government for subsidy, the insurance scheme should bring succour to the farmers.

2-Government should heep farmers by undertaking soil study and finalise on the nutrients required for individual farms. Government should also give a strong research support for agriculture by evolving strains which will withstand different climate, different levels of water availability and ensure that proper seed or sapling, fertilizers etc are made available at right time and at subsidised prices. Drip irrigation system should be adopted at all places where water is not available in abundance.

3-Farmers may kindly consider whether there is any useful purpose to keep uneconomic and marginal farms or whether it would be prudent to sell land at

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proper rate and invest money in a safe & shrewd man- sugarcane-producing belts. Similarly, the choice for ner. For proper investment advice should be given by starting a cotton textile mill should be rural area, pargovernment agencies should give sound unbiased ad- ticularly when land prices are shooting up and hitting vise to farmers. the ceiling and labour cost is perenni4-The last column of strategy is In present days of faster ally rising. A rural worker will save on encourage setting up of industries in communication, there is time and cost of commuting to the the rural areas. All what has been sug- no special reason why in- place of work. He will not be required gested earlier will not improve core dustries must be estab- to eat his lunch out and will save further monies. strength of farmers. lished in cities or towns.

The textile industry gets the benIn present days of faster communi- The balanced developefit of subsidy under the Texhnology cation, there is no special reason why ment of rural and urban Upgradation Fund Scheme. In addiindustries must be established in cities areas is of utmost importion, some State Governments give or towns. The balanced development tance for stability of econ- further incentives if the mills are newly of rural and urban areas is of utmost omy. set-up or expanded in their state, Maimportance for stability of economy. harashtra gives location-wise incenHence, there should be a sustained tives.What is necessary is that Govprogramme to promote industries in rural areas. ernment of Maharashtra should remodel the scheme If rural population starts migrating to towns and citareawise by giving higher incentives, if the activity is ies, the cities and towns will turn into slums at a rapid undertaken in and around cotton-growing areas. The speed, side-jobs since housing in urban areas is so exbenefit should flow not only to spinning mills, but also pensive. Migration to cities and towns is a patently misto weaving, processing and garmenting units. The inconceived idea We should not encourage the splitting centive scheme should revolve around the motto of of rural families, thereby creating a situation of maindeveloping the mills in cotton-growing areas. taining two kitchens. This will also greatly harm their The industries set up in rural area must keep social ability to do side jobs for supplementing family income. angle on their mind. The rural industry should be built And the cost of living in cities and towns is highly expensive. Note the tremendous benefits that would on the platform of commitment to welfare and incluflow if the rural households remain to stay together. sive growth of local persons so as to take rural econoThe rural population will continue to enjoy salubrious my to a higher level. At the same time, local population climate in the rural areas. The rural homes will remain should get opportunities to rise to higher positions. unified, with no addition to the expenditure. In fact, a The scheme of industrialization of rural areas should unified home families can take to ancillary industries. not be confined only to the setting up of an industrial Apart from tillage of the farm, they can do sheep and unit, but the investor should have a strong committegoat husbandry or keep fowl. But this may not bring ment to the rural uplift. There are shining examples of adequate addition to the family income.

2 mills apart from Amul how they transform the ecoHence, the best solution is to start industries par- nomic scene of the villages so radically, this is inclusive q ticularly in agro-industries in rural areas. To get fresh growth. sugarcane, sugar factories are necessarily located in

Amul is a role model for development of rural India.

The credit for fantastic development of rural Gujart goes to Gujarat co-operative Milk Marketing Federation, popularly known as Amul. Its aim is to provide remunerative returns to the farmers and give consumers good products which are good value for money. Established in 1973, its turnover in 1994-95 was US $ 355 Million which crossed US $ 3 billion mark in 2013-14.

All the participating farmers are enjoying good standard of life and are therefore immensely happy.

There are distinct signs of rising prosperity in the vil-

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lages of North Gujarat.

The company is run on the tenets of modern management. It has six Zonal offices, several branch offices one overseas office at Dubai.

Indeed, Amul is a role model for development of rural India. We wholeheartedly recommend that the nucleus organisation in the rural side should not only create jobs, but must take interest in the well-being of its employees and other local population. q

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Oasis amid arid area, New energy and hope to the people of Anjar, Kutch, Gujarat The general impression of the people about Anjar is that it is a small town in kutch and always thirsty of water and a place where manufacturers of packaged water look for a big business, when water is so scare, parshed lands are only to be expected. But thus an old story and the earlier perception about Anjar needs to be totally wiped out.

It is unbelievable but 100% true that Anjar is full of greenery, water is no more a proble and agriculture is in good shape.

How did this happen ? the total credit for this transformation goes to Welspun Group, who accepted the challenge to bring prosperity to every household in and around Anjar. The Government of Gujarat was also highly appreciate the efforts made by welspun group and strengthen their massive plans by making available water through Narmada canals and power was not a problem, Gujarat being a power surplus state.

Efforts of welpun in making city is a prime example of continuous efforts of turning a draught prone are in to a scenic place with a strong emphasis on afforestation. Anjar is a veritable oasis, completely cash green, with a strong emphasis on afforestation. Anjar boasts of a thick forest of 5 lakh trees, many of which are jatropha, a drought resistant variety, the seeds of which came handy in the production of bio-diesel.

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Welspun , Weaving the threads of Life Welspun’s corporate philosophy has always been to practice ethical business and be socially responsible.

There is a strong commitment to a wider all-round social progress, as well as to a sustainable development that balances the needs of the present with those of the future.

Welspun Group’s social vision has been enshrined in the three E’s which have become the Guiding Principles of our CSR initiatives - Education, Empowerment and Environment & Health. A number of projects have been taken up under the banner of the Welspun Foundation for Health and Knowledge (WFHK) that aims towards development of model villages at all our plant locations.

Prior to the commencement of projects, welspun group carry out a baseline study to assess the need in the communities. Quantified targets are set for all projects and are monitored every quarter. Wherever necessary, midcourse corrections are carried out.

Company Contribution: The Company shall contribute at least 2% of the average net profits of the Company made during the three immediately preceding financial years to WFHK for the CSR activities to be undertaken with preference to the local areas around where the company operates. q

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A Shining example of rural uplift - Sterling contribution of a Cotton Textile Complex.

Mr. T. V. Bhavandas

Secretary -MOA

Shirpur, a small Municipal town in Dhule district of area. This has resulted in the very low income of the Maharashtra was at best a sleepy town with not much peopleand the consequent poverty, lack of education, activity till 1996 or so. The bane of the town was lack malnutrition, poor health conditions etc. of water. The monsoon never favouredShirpur with its Mr. Amrish Patel, President of Shirpur Municipal bounty and there are no minor or major irrigation pro- Council says “On assuming office, I saw Shirpur’s ecojects. Ninety percent of rural population being depend- nomic transformation as a personal challenge; one ant on agriculture, the level of adversity was high and to be pursued with imagination and conviction. If I sufferings of the people were intolerable. Agriculture achieved success, it would vindicate my belief in my was thus always a losing proposition and the people abilities, while opening doors to a better, more producof the area have to face tremendous distress. It was a tive life for scores of marginalized rural communities. little known town outside the district.

“I envisioned Shirpur as being the But Shirpur was destined to make hub of the largest textile complex in Today, according to progress. Shri.Amrish Patel, a hardCentral India. This enterprise would core industrialist and a noble philan- Mr. Chintan Patel, the op- also be the largest employer in the disthropist at the same time, while ac- eration covers 200 acres, trict, generating so many job opportucidently passing through that town employs 7,500 people, and nities that it would make it unneceswas moved by the level of poverty adheres to strict environ- sary for any son of the soil to leave his and hardship faced by the local peo- ment guidelines in its pro- hometown in search of employment. ple. His watchful eye, however, took cesses. Most importantly, “It was all began by setting up a a note that cotton was the major crop it serves the vision of hospinning unit in 1996. It was a modest of the area. He immediately decided to listic societal development step, but in just 13 years it has taken giimprove the agronomic condition and – and herein lies its special ant leaps into becoming a full-fledged, create job opportunities and make appeal. multi-process, cotton textile manufacevery house hold happy by setting-up turing enterprise, encompassing the a textile complex. entire value chain – from cultivation to In less than twenty years, Shirpur is famous not only production of fashion wear”. in the state but in the whole country and even outside The spinning mill was steadily expandedby forward the country also as a lush green town with flourishing integration like weaving, knitting, yarn and textile proagriculture and dotted with schools, high schools, encessing, , made-ups and ready-made garments etc. The gineering colleges, campus of reputed management installed capacity of the group’s textile manufacturing institute( NarseeMonjee Institute of Management has also gone-up to 10 Million Meters per annum of studies) hospitals etc.The management institute has cloth and 3 Million pieces of garments. The value chain opened an unbelievable opportunity for local ladspassextends from cotton ginning to garmenting, madeing through the institute to land in plush jobs in and ups,terry towels, home furnishing etc.Majority of the out of India. production of the group are exported to US, EU and M/s Deesan Group, a company originally having developing nations. Over a course of 20 years, Shirpur their establishments in Gujarat, promoted by ShriAm- has become one of the largest manufacturers and exrish Patel,set-up a cotton spinning mill in the backward porters of Textile products.

Shirpur, a small town in Dhule district of Maharashtra The State of the art machineryhas been installed and state in the year 1996.Other than agriculture, there stringent testing and quality control system has been were no sources for employment for the people of the employed at every stage of production, so that the end

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products conform to latest international standards. and other weaker sections of the society. Free shelter, Industrial waste water is being treated with Effluent food, uniforms and study materials are provided.An Treatment Plants (ETP) in order to increase the water aviation academy has been established by the group in availability and reduce pollution. Even, agro wastes are Shirpur. In short Deesan Group is arming Shirpur with being processed so that it can be put to better use. quality education and Technology.

Today, according to Mr. Chintan Patel, the operaThe group has ventured in the scheme of Textile tion covers 200 acres, employs 7,500 people, and ad- Park in the area with complete infra-structural faciliheres to strict environment guidelines in its processes. ties. The park is under development. Having created Most importantly, it serves the vision of holistic soci- the necessary infra-structure facilities, the area is exetal development – and herein lies its special appeal. pected to attract more investments in industrial units, The direct and indirect employment in the compa- textile as well as others, along with ancillaries, resultnies also grew to about 10,000 ie, in tandem with rise ing in increased industrial and economic activity of the in installed capacity and production. A large number of region and ultimately leading to economic prosperity women are also employed. The full time employment and wellbeing of the people of the area.. empowered not only the men and women working in As per Mr. Chintan Patel, one of the promoters, the group companies but their family members also, “The Deesan textile production enterprise integrates gradually enhancing the welfare and standard of living numerous processes, from cotton seed acquisition to of the people of the area. cultivation to ginning, spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeThe textile group has undertaken a number of wel- ing and garmenting. The enterprise, by its very nature, fare measures in order to benefit the general populace has worked a socio-economic transformation in a hithof the region. The first priority was to make available erto backward region and we are proud to be a part adequate water for drinking as well as for irrigation for of it. agriculture in the parched area.The group has under“Working independently and with local governing taken various projects to widen and deepen the water- bodies we empower rural communities by providing ways. Over 500 check dams are made all over Shirpur education, skill development programs, and opportuto ensure that the rain water is well preserved and not nities for gainful employment. In fact, we measure our a drop is wasted; thereby increasing the water level success by the success of those we assist in achieving of the region considerably. Rain water harvesting ar- their individual dreams. rangements have also been madeand water treatment “Being associated with excellence in quality - be and recycling plants have been established. This has it in yarn, fabric or garments - our products wear the provided the much needed water for agriculture and cachet of renowned national and international brands sanitation purposes. Every household and have a strong presence in counis supplied with potable water. 2.5 Mil- Over a course of 20 years, tries across North America, Europe lion neem trees have been planted in Shirpur has become one of and Australia. the areain order to balance the ecol- the largest manufacturers We’re also proud of the fact that ogy and environment. and exporters of Textile we are among the few textile units to Modern methods of cotton cultiva- products. be organic certified - entirely capable tion have been introduced in the area. of producing organic products to the Mechanised farming has been popumost demanding international standlarized and an agriculture Research Centre has been ards among other special finishes.” stated Mr. Chintan established.Good quality cotton seeds are made avail- Patel”. able to the farmers.The Cotton produced in the area In conclusion, it may be seen that in the instant case isby and large contamination free and quality of cotton the benefit of industrialization has encompassed peohas increased considerably.Agriculturistswere encourple of the area and the entire population of Shirpurand agedto take up cooperative farming.By all these measparticularly the under privileged. Let us hope, Deesan ures, a sustainable environment has been created.

Groups development model at Shirpur will be emulatIndira Gandhi Memorial HospitalatShirpur has ed by other industrial groups also for the development been totally renovated and expanded by the textile of backward regions. q group. The hospital is now equipped with modern instruments, Gadgets and machines to provide quality medical treatment to the people of the area. Ashram Schools have been established where quality education is provided to the children of scheduled tribes May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

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Rural Development Scheme of Govt. of India.

Reference: Textile Ministry

Government of India, during the last one and a half decades has launched a number of schemes aimed at development of Rural areas to provide employment to Rural folks, provide infrastructure like roads as well as housing to the weaker sections of the rural areas.

Lack of housing, absence of infrastructure in villages and towns to village connectivity by all-weather roads and absence of employment opportunities are the major problems faced by villages in India. Three schemes were launched in order to mitigate these problems.

The gist of these schemes are given below: I-Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA) Salient Features National Rural Employment Guarantee Act was enacted on 5th September, 2005 and came into force w.e.f. 2nd February, 2006. On 31st December, 2009, the Act was renamed by an Amendment as the Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act, 2005. It is now commonly referred to as Mahatama Gandhi NREGA.MGNREDA is a right based wage employment programme implemented in the rural areas of the country. This programme aims at enhancing livelihood security by providing up to 100 days of guaranteed wage employment in one financial year in every rural households whose adult members volunteer to do unskilled manual work.

The core objectives of the scheme are providing up to 100 days of unskilled manual work as guaranteed employment in a financial year to every household in rural areas as per demand resulting in creation of productive assets of prescribed quality & durability; Strengthening of livelihood resource base of the poor; pro-actively ensuring social inclusion and strengthening panchayati raj institution.

In its first year, 200 districts were covered. This was followed by extension to 130districts in the following year. Finally, in the 3rd year of its operation i.e. 200809, itwas extended to 285 districts. In the meantime several new districts were created by division of older ones. Thus the coverage of districts under Mahatama Gandhi NREGA currently stands at 651 comprising of 6834 blocks and 250 lakh Gram panchayats..

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The Act made supplementary livelihood in rural areas through unskilled manual work a legal right. Any rural household seeking unskilled manual work could register its family in the Gram Panchayat and obtain a job card. With the possession of a job card, the registered rural household could apply for work for at least 100 days in the Gram Panchayat. Gram Panchayat was entrusted with the legal duty of providing work to such applicant within 15 days of the receipt of the application, failing which unemployment allowance would become payable to the rural household. The law prescribes payment of wages every week and not later than a fortnight of the work done. In the event of delay in payment of wages, workers were entitled to compensation under Payment of Wages Act, 1938.

The regime of right to livelihood was to be financially supported by the Central and State Governments.

State Governments were made responsible for ensuring the guarantee of livelihood and timely payment of wages. State would provide the necessary technical and administrative support through the Districts and the administrative expenses by empowering the Central Government to fix a proportion of total cost of the scheme to be used for administration of the Act. The Act permits certain categories of work to be taken up for providing employment to the job seeking rural households. These categories are generic in nature such as water conservation, drought proofing, irrigation, land development, rejuvenation of traditional water bodies, flood control and drainage work, rural connectivity and work on the land of SC/ST/BPL/IAY beneficiaries/land reform beneficiaries/ individual small and marginal farmers.

So far under this scheme, 1829.40 crore person days have been generated and an expenditure of Rs. 2,81,823.08 Crore has been incurred. Currently, on an average, in any given day, 28,55,493/ persons are working at 1,78,178 work sites under MGNREGA. II-PRADHAN MANTRI GRAM SADAK YOJANA (PMGSY) 1. Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojana (PMGSY) was launched on 25th December 2000 as a fully- funded Centrally Sponsored Scheme to provide all- weather

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road connectivity in rural areas of the country. The scheme envisages connecting all habitations with a population of 500 persons and above in the plain areas and 250 persons and above in hill States, the tribal and the desert areas with all weather motorable roads.

With a view to ensuring full farm to market connectivity, the programme also provides for up gradation of existing through routs and major rural links to prescribed standards. Under PMGSY-II, the projects for up gradation of 11234 kms have been sanctioned.

2. According to latest figures made available by the State Governments under a survey to identify Core.

Network as part of the PMGSY programme, about 1.67 lakh unconnected Habitations are eligible for coverage under the programme. This involves construction of about 3.71 lakh km. of roads for new connectivity and 3.68 lakh km. under up gradation.

3. The government has announced a major business plan for rebuilding rural India called Bharat Nirman and identified Rural Roads as one of the six components of Bharat Nirman. PMGSY is one of the schemes under Bharat Nirman. Under PMGSY govt. has set a goal to provide connectivity to all habitations with a population of 1000 persons and above (500 persons and above in the case of hilly or tribal areas) with an all-weather road. A total of 59564 habitations are proposed to be provided new connectivity under Bharat Nirman. This would involve construction of 1,46,185 Kms of rural roads. In addition to new connectivity, Bharat Nirman envisages upgradation/renewal of 1,94,130 Kms of existing rural roads. This comprises 60% up gradation from Government of India and 40% renewal by the State Governments.

4. Over the last 15 years, the Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojana (PMGSY) has made a place for itself as a programme characterised by detailed planning, methodical execution, careful management and high quality consciousness. This has been possible due to the close interaction between the Ministry of Rural Development and the State executing agencies as well as involvement of the Principal and State Technical Agencies and senior Engineers of the State and Central Governments including retired Engineers working as National Quality Monitors. Clear and detailed documentation on the construction standards in the form of the Book of Specifications, Rural Roads Manual and Standard Data Book published by the Indian Roads Congress (IRC) supported by the Quality Control Handbook for quality management have contributed significantly in the process.

5. Under the scheme, so far, connectivity has been provided to 1,04,740 eligible unconnected habitations by constructing 2,63,145/kms of roads. The country has

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

now a network of about 4,19,494 kms of such roads.

III-Indira Awaas Yojana (IAY)- A Rural Housing scheme.

Housing is one of the basic requirements for human survival. For a normal citizen owning a house provides significant economic and social security and status in society. For a shelterless person, a house brings about a profound social change in his existence, endowing him with an identity, thus integrating him with his immediate social milieu. Schemes for providing housing to the poor are not new to the government. A housing programme for the rehabilitation of refugees was taken up immediately after partition by the Ministry of Refugee Rehabilitation and this lasted till around 1960.

Approximately 5 lakh families were housed in various centres mainly located in Northern lndia. A Village Housing Scheme was also launched as part of the Community Development Movement in 1957, in which loans to individuals and cooperatives were provided up to a maximum of Rs. 5000/- per house 2.1. As per announcement made by the Government of India in June 1985, a part of the Rural Landless Employment Guarantee Programme (RLEGP) fund was earmarked for the construction of houses for SCs/STs and freed bonded laborers. As a result, Indira Awaas Yojana (lAY) was launched during 1985-86 as a subscheme of RLEGP. 2.2 Jawahar Rozgar Yojana (JRY) scheme was launched in April, 1989 to replace RLEGP. 6% of the total JRY funds were allocated for implementation of lAY. From the year 1993-94, the scope of lAY was extended to cover below the poverty line Non-Scheduled Castes/ Scheduled Tribes families in the rural areas. Simultaneously, the allocation of funds for implementing the scheme was raised from 6% to 10% of the total resources available under JRY at the national level, subject to the condition that the benefits to Non-Scheduled Castes/ Scheduled Tribes poor should not exceed 4% of the total JRY allocation.

2.3. IAY was de-linked from JRY and made an independent scheme with effect from 1st January 1996 and has made one of the flagship programmes of Rural Development Ministry, Govt. of India. A number of initiatives have been taken to improve the Rural Housing (RH) programme by making provision for upgradation of unserviceable kutcha houses and by providing credit with subsidy for certain sections of the poor including minorities in the below poverty line category1 and other below poverty line non-SC/ST rural households by providing them a lump sum financial assistance. Further, the scheme provides for making available homestead plots for the poorest and the vulnerable who do not have agricultural land or house sites. Emphasis

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has also been laid on use of cost effective, disaster resistant and environment friendly technologies in rural housing.

3.Financial Assistance and Funding Pattern: Financial assistance up to Rs.70,000/ in plain areas and 75,000/in highland areas with subsidy is provided for construction of homes/ upgradation of existing kutcha houses to the eligible categories under the scheme. Indira Awaas Yojana is a Centrally Sponsored Scheme funded on cost-sharing basis between the Government of India and the State Governments in the ratio of 75:25. However, in the case of North-Eastern States and Sikkim, funding will be shared between the Government of India and these States in the ratio of 90:10 respectively. In the case of Union Territories, the entire funds under this Scheme are provided by the Government of India. The available resources under the Scheme in a district are earmarked for various eligible categories The scheme has laid down systems to facilitate and

No dilution of handloom protection Handlooms, a piece of Indian culture are not only an inspiring heritage of India, but a proud pre historic legacy of excellence, a vision of freedom fighters with chakra is being a symbol in the freedom-fight and the path for economic improvement of far off villages. Every country protects , promotes and perpetuates its legacy& heritage.

Are we not showing great concern for heritage buildings, heritage sites? Why do we gloss over the importance of handlooms which is remained the backbone of Indian economy for many centuries? It seems a meeting was called by the Ministry of Textiles to discuss amendment in the Handloom Reservation Act to de-reserve sarees.

Government should make a thorough and unbiased study of which varieties of sarees carry the symbol of culture and which can be kept in the non-handloom segment, provided the power loom and mill sector assure of self-discipline and assure to a system for penal action in the event of contravention.

Let us not forget, handlooms continue to be a vista for supplementary income of the rural sector. Handloom cloth is an integral part of the fabric of India’s progress woven with the thread of many colors, innovation, purity and dedication. q

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maintain a sustained growth of the housing stock to ensure adequate and affordable housing for all as well as to create within the timeframe of the 12th Five Year Plan, adequate and affordable rural housing stock that would cater to the rural housing shortage to the extent of existing kutcha houses.. For the above objectives, govt. will ensure adequate flow of grant from Government to support housing for the poorest and the vulnerable and to address the special needs of marginal and weaker sections of the society.

The scheme is expected to ensure adequate and affordable housing for all and facilitate development of sustainable and inclusive habitats in rural areas by expanding Government support, promoting community participation, self -help and public-private partnership within the framework of Panchayati Raj. As per the Union Rural development Ministry, since the inception of the scheme, more than 27 lakh dwellings have been built all over India for the eligible persons under the scheme. q

FABRIC REPORT

by Mr. Kirti Shah, Textile World

l Polyester spinners & staple fibers quoted Rs. 3500 / ton, POV quoted Rs. 2500 / ton. l Bhiwandi, weavers & traders strike is not successful. Manufacturer who have installed new machinery and taken bank loan, they are working properly. But others who don’t got bank loan, yarn supply, they have closed the looms as of now, due to non availability of worker. l Europe & USA have great demand of yarn dyed checks, huge potential for exporter. l New varieties have a good demand in shirting. Arvind mills denim’s indigo print, satin print, linen’s acrylic coating, oxford print is having good demand. Arvind’s retail counter started with tailoring department, where they scan body and note measurement. l Market traders quoted that bhiwandi’s36’’width shirting manufacturer now making 58’’ width fabric, but they destroy the market by severe price competition.

Price trend : l Burhanpur, MP, low quality long fabric 36’’ width, Market price is Rs. 12 to 22 / meter l 20/20, 108/56 Drill finished 58’’ Airjet price Rs. 109 / meter l 50/40, 180/112 satin price Rs. 132 / meter l 40/40, 120/120, 58’’ width dyed Airjet price Rs. 100 / mtr l 50/50, 165/104 twill 58’’ Price Rs. 110 / meter Shirting Fabrics: l Cotton Grey fabric price Rs. 77 / meter & Finished fabric Rs. 105 / meter l Polyester checks Grey fabric , 61’’ width price atRs. 42, with shrinkage & finish fabric with width 58’’ price is Rs. 52.

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May 2015

TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES TEXTILE TESTING & TECHNICAL SERVICES

GOVERNMENT NEWS

No Proposal to close down the National Crafts Museum Myth: National Crafts Museum at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi may be closed to make way for Government-run Hastakala Academy.

Reality: The Hastakala Academy would be set up at the Crafts Museum premises, without dismantling any of the Museum galleries and without disturbing Museum activities. Further, establishment of the Hastakala Academy in the same premises will create a natural synergy between the activities of the Crafts Museum and the Hastakala Academy.

The Government of India is promoting the activities of National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum. There is no proposal whatsoever to close down the Museum.

Background Some sections of the media have been reporting that the National Crafts Museum may be closed down. This relates to the interview of Dr. Ruchira Ghosh, outgoing Consultant of the Museum.

The statement made by Dr. Ruchira Ghosh, whose tenure as Consultant and Chairperson (CoA) of the Museum has ended, is misleading and not based on facts.

There is no proposal whatsoever to close down the Crafts Museum.

The Hastakala Academy is being set up for promotion of handmade products, as per the announcement made in Union Budget 2014-15. q

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National Workshop held to strengthen Make in India in Textiles A two-day National Workshop has been conducted by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India on 9th and 10th April, 2015 in Surat to showcase progress of the Textile Parks set up under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP), a flagship scheme of the Ministry.

In his inaugural speech, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles (Independent Charge), Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwarinformed that SITP aims to provide infrastructure support which is critical for making textile manufacturing industry globally competitive. He said that textile parks can play an important role in this regard by attracting huge investment and generating employment.

Addressing the gathering, Hon’ble Minister announced approval of 20 new parks during previous seven months, bringing the total number of parks approved under the scheme to 70. Once operational, these parks are expected to attract investment of Rs. 30,000 crores and generate employment for 11,00,000 persons. The Minister informed that Government would set up 8 to 10 more parks in the 12th Five Year Plan. These parks will be catalytic in realising Make in India vision of the Hon’ble Prime Minister. He urged the state governments and the industry to work in unison to make India a global leader in textile manufacturing.

Earlier, Shri Gangwar inaugurat-

ed a photo exhibition on SITP. He also released a short film on SITP and a report on textile parks approved under the scheme.

The Minister of Commerce and Industry of Manipur informed that a road corridor is proposed from Moreh in Manipur to Mandalay in Myanmar and then to Thailand which will provide better access to the South East Asian market for Indian textile industry. He reassured the industry that the state government would provide all necessary support and peaceful and secure conditions for textile investors in the state.

The conference was attended by the Minister of Commerce and Industry, Manipur, Shri Govindas Konthoujam; Smt. Darshana Vikram Jardosh, MP, Surat and MLAs from Surat, Shri Harsh Sanghvi and Shri Rajabhai. Industry representatives and representatives from 13 States across the country were present as well.

Field visits were organized as part of the workshop, for prospective investors and state government officials to give them a firsthand experience of successful par ks. q

Destiny means there are opportunities to turn right or left but fate is a one-way street.

We all have the choice as to whether we we fulfill our destiny, but our fate is sealed.

Paulo Coelho.

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May 2015

CORPORATE NEWS

Top-end Chinese spinner puts yarn clearers to the test Ambitious yarn spinners quickly learn that Key Performance Indicators are closely linked with quality – especially at the higher levels of the market, as an example from China shows. Achieving consistent quality, reducing waste and avoiding the risk of packages ruined by outliers are critical objectives, attainable only by implementing systematic quality management. The USTER®QUANTUM 3 clearers provide the ideal basis for this, with in-process yarn optimization, proven by stringent mill trials and confirmed by laboratory checks.

Chinese spinner Shandong LiaochengHuarun Textile aims firmly at the top segment of the yarn business, with its focus on super-fine counts made from combed longstaple cottons. The mill – part of the Huarun Group – is established among China’s leading producers, exporting 50% of its output to Europe.

Reaching this level is tough, staying there even tougher, demanding constant effort to monitor and optimize quality and productivity. That includes choosing the best-available equipment as part of the ideal recipe for success. Against this background, LiaochengHuarun decided to run a comprehensive practical trial to identify the best yarn clearer to meet its challenging quality and cost goals.

The USTER®QUANTUM 3 clearer is known as the preferred choice for many spinning mills producing

fine and very fine count yarns for demanding applications such as high-quality woven fabrics. That meant that LiaochengHuarun had high expectations of the USTER® instrument when comparing it with existing clearers for controlling yarn faults. q Apsom to launch Roland Texart RT 640A sublimation printer at Garfab TX 64” sublimation printer Applications include sportswear, interior décor, displays, flags and banners Achieves maximum speed of 32.6 square metres/hour Apsom Infotex Limited, the Indian master distributor to Roland DG Corporation, a leading worldwide manufacturer of wide-format inkjet printers and printer/cutters, will be releasing the Texart RT-640A; an advanced 64” sublimation printer at Garfab-TX, being held at Surat from May 15-17, 2015.

Dye-sublimation printing is an exciting and rapidly growing market in India. Sportswear, interior décor, displays, flags and banners are just a few examples of the many opportunities available with this technology.

“The Indian textile sector is a hugely vibrant market, and this machine significantly lowers the barriers of entry to this and the soft signage market, offering a highly cost-effective and flexible solution for those considering expanding into this exciting sector,” MS Dadu, Director at Apsom said.

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

“In fact, I agree with the statement that the digital textile printing business will become one of our core businesses and the next growth driver for the company,” he added.

The RT-640 is a state-of-the-art dye sublimation transfer printer featuring innovative print control technology, a powerful RIP software and a choice of four-colour (CMYK) or eight-colour (CMYKLcLmOrVi) original dye sublimation ink and offers numerous features custom made for digital textile production.

Among entry-level dye sublimation transfer printers, the RT-640 has achieved the industry’s highest level of practical print speed of 22 square metres per hour and a maximum speed of 32.6 square metres per hour, while optimised fan absorption power, keeps transfer paper flat for printing.

Furthermore, a newly designed Media Feed Adjuster at the front and back provides even tensioning and prevents skewing. The results are a precisely wound roll on the take-up reel to deliver consistent feed tension when the media is passed through the calendar press.

With a choice of dual CMYK or 8-colour configuration, including Orange and Violet, Roland’s new Texart ink offers an extremely wide colour gamut to enable bold and vibrant printing with high contrast, subtle gradations and remarkable fine detail. The new strong Black ink has depth and density to produce accurate and rich output. q

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

Record breaking participation of ITAMMA members for Catalogue Display Scheme at ‘INDO inter TEX 2015’ The 13th edition of ‘INDO inter TEX 2015’, the Indonesia International Textile and Garment Machinery & Accessories Exhibition, organized jointly by PT. Peraga Nusantara Jaya Sakti, Indonesia. The

exhibition received a tremendous response from 452 exhibitors from 24 countries, including 17 Indian exhibitors. The Participation from China was the highest to an extent of 35.62% which was followed by 25% from Indonesia. However, Indian Exhibitors were only 3.76% . Even though the Exhibition showcased more of Garment and Accessories stalls, the visitors at the ITAMMA stall were in good numbers from the field of Spinning, Weaving & Traders/Manufacturers of Spare Parts. This gave a good opportunity to the ITAMMA member partici-

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pants of Catalogue Display scheme to explore the clients/agents for their business at Indonesia.

Activities organized at ITAMMA Stall 101E in the Hall A1: ITAMMA showcased its services as well as the products of its members at Stall No.101E in Hall A1.

The trend of visitors registered at ITAMMA Stall were 20% from Spin-

ning, 10.67% from Weaving, 5.33% from Wet Processing, and 22.67 % were from Garment Apparel Industry & others. While Traders/Agents interested in purchasing and selling spares and accessories were 33.33%. As its regular practice ITAMMA organized a ‘Catalogue Display Scheme’ for its members who were not able to participate in the above Exhibition, which recorded a overwhelming response from 21 member companies. q

Imported cotton storage cost effective at Mangalore port SIMA The predominantly cotton based textile industry in South India, particularly the textile mills in Tamil Nadu import significant volume of West African cotton to manufacture knitted garments. The congestion in ports currently being used has prompted the Association to explore the possibilities of utilizing Mangalore port which has got excellent warehousing facilities particularly for the benefit of the small and medium scale spinning mills.

In a press release issued here today, Mr.T.Rajkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has stated that the Association along with members of South India Spinners Association (SISPA), traders and liners had a detailed discussion at SIMA premises on 10th April 2015 with Mr. P.C.Parida, Chairman, Mangalore Port Trust and their officials. He has stated that the Mangalore Port currently handles coffee, cashew, coal, timber and oil and the port authorities have evinced interest in stocking imported cotton in their warehousing facilities at a highly economical rate. Mr.Rajkumar has stated that the Association has requested Chairman of Port Trust to extend customs free bonded warehouse for cotton without attracting any tax/ levies as in Malaysian Port so that the traders could store the imported cotton and supply to the small and medium spinning mills all over South India particularly Tamil

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May 2015

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Nadu which accounts for 44% of the total spinning capacity in the Nation. He has stated that such a facility would also enable the traders to return the unsold cotton to the original destination without additional cost.

SIMA chief has stated that Mangalore Port Trust Chairman has assured to take all necessary steps to provide bonded warehouse after getting permission from Central Government.

Mr.Rajkumar has stated that the port handling charges, wharfage and demurrages are comparatively much lower in Mangalore Port. SIMA Chairman has stated that the port authorities have invited office-bearers, traders and liners to visit Port so that they could work with the Association for mutual benefits. He has opined that the effort would facilitate manufacturing of value added garments out of West African cotton and is a right step towards achieving the vision of Make in India programme of the Hon’ble Prime Minister and foster global competitiveness of SMEs. q

functions in Ottawa and Toronto during which many MOUs on bilateral issues were signed in his presence and also in the presence of the Prime Minister of Canada Mr. Stephen Harper.

Dr. A. Sakthival, Chairman Apparel, Made-Ups & Home Furnishing Sector Skill Council signed an MOU with Mr. Bruce Wilson, President, Fanshawe College, Canada

Made-Ups & Home Furnishing Sector with the AMH SSC. This would result in availability of larger number of Quality Master Trainers. This would further ensure quality trainings in the skilling in the Apparel sector.

Thereafter, on 15th April, 2015 itself in the evening, Dr. Sakthivel also signed another MOU with Mr. Husain Neemuchwala of the Cana-

Mr. Bruce Wilson, President, Fanshawe College, Canada and Dr. A. Sakthivel, Chairman, AMH SSC, India

Apparel, Made-Ups & Home Furnishing Sector Skill Council Apparel, Made-Ups & Home Furnishing Sector Skill Council signs MoU with Hanshawe College Canada and CEIC: Chairman SSC, Dr A Sakthivel Hon’ble Prime Minister of India Mr. Narendra Modi has recently completed an excellent and fruitful tour of three countries. On his last leg of Tour, he attended many

for transfer of expertise in the field of Training of Trainers and other fields on 15th April, 2015 at Ottawa, Canada. The MOU was signed and exchanged in front of the Prime Ministers of India and Canada. The MOU envisages greater cooperation between the Canadian partner and AMH SSC, whereby, Fanshawe College, Canada shall exchange their expertise in the field of Training of Trainers and other fields in the skilling process in the Apparel,

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

da India Education Council (CIEC), Canada for exchange of expertise in the field of Skilling in Apparel Sector. This MOU was signed in the presence of Mr. Modi.

These two MOUs shall help the Skilling in the Apparel sector, a task initiated by Shri Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Hon’ble Minister for Skill Development and Entrepreneurship, Govt of India. q

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! ok th Bo boo ur yo

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Your Centre of Innovation 24 – 26 September 2015 Hall 6, B.E.C, Goregaon (E)

Discover a premier trade platform featuring innovative trends in the technical textile & nonwoven industry For space booking please contact: Bijoy Varghese +91 22 6144 5960 | bijoy.varghese@india.messefrankfurt.com www. techtextil-india.co.in

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

A.T.E.’s capabilities

Mr. G. V. Aras

Director, Textile Engineering Group

“Sky is the limit” is a metaphor that applies to tech- cialized products. Together with Voith Papers, Germanical textiles in not one but in two ways: Firstly, its ap- ny, Truetzschler Nonwovens can now supply complete plication areas are many, such as: agriculture, construc- lines and solutions for wetlaid nonwovens. tion, clothing, geotextiles, home furnishing, industri-al, EnkaTecnica, Germany: Enka is a manufacturers of medical, transport, environmental protection, packag- world class jet strips, spunbond spinnerets and melt ing, protective textiles and sports. Secondly, In-dia’s blown dies. Apart from supply of new equipment, Entechnical textile market is estimated kaTecnica also undertakes the servicby Technopak to grow by a CAGR of Referring to A.T.E.’s early ing of the used machines.

10% in 2011-20, from US$ 10.5 billion (in entry into technical texKarl Mayer, Germany: Karl Mayer 2009) to reach US$ 31 billion by 2020. tiles, AnujBhagwati, Man- offers warp knitting technology, by far A.T.E., which closely tracks global aging Director, said “Tech- the most versatile and highly pro-ducmarket trends, has understood the nical textiles is a passion tive fabric production system in textile importance of technical textile since for me. When I was a stu- machinery sector. The portfolio also 1996. That is when A.T.E. started dent in the US, I noticed includes state-of-the-art machines tying-up with world leaders to bring the large amount of tech- with tailor-made solutions to produce solutions for technical textiles to the technical textiles based on the applicaIndian market, way before many in the nical textiles and non-wo- tion areas. The Opt-O-Matic is the perindustry were aware of the potential vens that were being used fect sectional warper for meeting the of the technical textile market in India. there, and I realized this high demands of the specific processSide by side, A.T.E. also invested heav- would happen eventually ing conditions, efficiency and flexibility ily in building its technical expertise in in India. And when it does, in the exacting field of technical texthis field. Today, A.T.E. is the only com- the industry should have a tiles. The range includes warp knitting, pany in India with capabilities to offer ready partner in A.T.E. We weft insertion warp knitting (WIWK), a complete spectrum of equipment moved into nonwovens in biaxial and multi-axial machines, secsolutions, backed with deeply embed- 1996. We spoke at a lot of tional warping machines and filament ded knowledge, in technical textiles. seminars, but there was no sizing and warping machines, coverHere is an overview of the range business. The last couple ing a wide range of applications such of products and solutions offered by of years, however, we are as technical nets, automotive tex-tiles, A.T.E. in technical textiles: medical textiles, geotextiles, industrial seeing that lines are being Truetzschler Nonwovens, Ger- finalized and the market is textiles, building textiles, composties, 3 dimensional fabrics (spacer fabrics), many: Truetzschler Nonwovens is an able to absorb the vast pro- protection textiles and coating and expert in offering complete lines and duction outputs of modern lamination substrates. solutions for needle punch, spunlace, chemical and thermal bonding. The lines.”

A.T.E. also offers a complete packcompany is also present in loose stock age for finishing for technical textiles drying ranges – for bleached cotton, wool scouring, from its world renowned principals such as: etc.

OsthoffSenge, Germany: With over 100 years of exOver the years, Truetzschler Nonwovens has gained perience, Osthoff is synonymous with singeing. In adexperience and expertise in almost all specialized ap- dition to a variety of applications in conventional texplications, whether it is carded web, spunlaid web, pulp tiles, Osthoff is also highly successful in the singeing of or multiple bonding techniques to arrive at single spe- technical textiles.

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

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Goller, Germany: Backed by over 100 years experience, Goller is well known for wet finishing machinery such as continuous bleaching, continuous dyeing and washing ranges.

A. Monforts, Germany: Backed with over 125 years experience, Monforts offers cutting-edge technology in finishing machine. The ranges include: stretching ranges, flow through dryers, belt dryers, high temperature stenters, vertical dryers, finishing ranges, universal dryers, twin therm dryers (having temp. difference of upto 60oC between top and bottom air), thermo bonding ranges, coating lines suitable for glass fibre fab-rics, light protection, tarpaulins, billboards, artificial leather, floor coverings, artificial grass, nonwovens, spacers, etc.

Zimmer, Austria: Zimmer offers coating machines with Magnoroll for universal application. The magnet system with the electromagnetic roller allows high quality coating results with perfect uniform liquid, paste, lacquer and foam applications, which can be achieved on various substrates such as textiles, paper, foil, nonwoven, fiber glass, tissues and innovative materials.

Zimmer TRIPLEXCOAT is a compact coating machine with a precision back roll, knife, screen and slot coat-ing unit for all the different substrates mentioned above.

Zimmer continues to innovate into further areas of its expertise and latest technology to hit the market is the digital printing/dyeing of narrow width fabrics.

The Colaris NF digital printer can print /dye elastics and rigid tapes on single, as well as both sides at speeds of upto 50 m/min. The machine can do printing and dyeing continuously even for small lots with color or pattern changes on the fly. Disperse dyes are used for polyester, acid dyes for nylon and reactive dyes for cotton. The machine can be delivered as stand-alone, integrated in existing dye range or as one complete continuous range. The minimum print width is as low as one can guide the tape. For some appli-cations, the machine can also print on yarn.

Mahlo, Germany: Mahlo is one of the world’s leading producers of measurement, control and automation systems for the textile industry with products such as weft straightners, pattern detection systems and online process monitoring & control systems, online product, colour& coating inspection, and data management systems for textile, nonwovens, etc.

Ramisch Guarneri, Italy: Ramisch Guarneri is a leading manufacturer of textile finishing calenders for tradi-tional and technical textile industry based on innovative development and high quality engineering.

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Its ‘NIP-CO HT’ calendar is highly versatile. It has, for example, height-adjustable brake rolls, making it possible to enter the fabric into the heated roll at an angle of up to 135 degrees. This, in turn, allows more efficient treatment at a higher speed. The fabric can also be run, for example, 4-meters wide and be split into two 2 meter rolls after the calendar. The new rolling system also allows the running of two separate rolls at the same time.

CorinoMacchine, Italy: Corino has revolutionised in a substantial way the winding and unwinding operations with perfect rolling up, and precise control of the fabric tension.

Lacom, Germany: Lacom is a leading supplier of laminating and coating machines using hotmelt technolo-gy for flexible products. Applications weights can range from 2 to 1500 g/m².

Products include applicators for slot die, gravure, multi-roller, multi-purpose, scatter, dispersion, laboratory machines and customized plants. The machine is able to laminate automotive fabrics, hospitals/ hygienic, protective clothing, military clothing, sportswear, incontinence, shoes (upper fabric and toe and hill inserts), upholstery fabric, side airbag (design airbag) film lamination and many other products.

Luwa India, India: Luwa is a leading supplier of industrial air engineering systems and designs specialized systems in close cooperation with customers that enhances the efficiency of manufacturing machines.

Lu-wa air cleaning systems conform to the most rigorous European and international ecological regulations.

The Indian textile industry thus has a ready partner in A.T.E. in its foray into the highly promising technical textiles, which will prove to be a game changer.

“A.T.E. has been building its capabilities in technical textiles step by step in the last over a decade with much patience and perseverance, as it knew for sure that consider-ing the enormous potential of technical textiles, it was bound to explode in India. Though it was a long wait, the time has now come and the industry is slowly but surely getting into this sector.

A.T.E. is fully geared to help the Indian textile industry to maximize the opportunities ushered in by technical textiles. A.T.E.’s capa-bilities in technical textiles now span across the entire spectrum, right from providing solutions to setting-up turn-key projects, an unique strength that sets A.T.E. apart”, said G V Aras, Director. q

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May 2015

TECHNICAL PAPER

Eco-Friendly Textile Finishes: Finishes for Well-being Abstract The processing of textiles consumes vast amount of water and chemicals, and release numerous harmful volatile agents into the atmosphere. From an environmental point of view, the clothes we wear can cause a great deal of damage. A new concept of fabric finishing with plant extracts having medicinal values is emerging now days with a fair degree of acceptability. Now the treatment doesn’t only means consuming medicines, but we can actually wear the medicated fabric and get good results in return.

In this article, an attempt has been made to explore the possibility of finishing textiles from medicinal plant extracts from material like Basil leaves, Neem, turmeric, sandalwood, etc. These extracts are a pure form of eco-friendly material and have already had a successful application on textiles. Apart from this, various other finishing techniques that are termed as “Environment Friendly” has also been discussed, which includes Nanotechnology, Enzymatic finishing, Plasma treatment and Microencapsulation.

Introduction It is well known that every customer product has less or more impact on the environment, which the consumer does not know. Any product, which is made, used or disposed of in a way that significantly reduces the harm it would otherwise cause to the environment, could be considered as eco-friendly product. Slowly, consumers in India are taking lead in prompting manufacturers to adopt clean technologies to produce ecofriendly products.

In the same way, the textile industry is shared between natural fibres such as wool, silk, linen, cotton and hemp, and man-made ones, the most common of which are synthetic fibres (polyamide, acrylic) made from petrochemicals. A vast amount of water and chemicals is consumed in the process of dyeing and printing. Along with this, numerous volatile agents are released into the atmosphere that is particularly harmful to our health. From an environmental point of view, the clothes we wear and the textiles they are made

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

Prof. Ela Dedhia

Khushboo Shrimali

Nirmala Niketan College of Home Science, Mumbai

Ph.D. Scholar, SNDT University, Mumbai

from can cause a great deal of damage.

It is expected that due to rapid change in customer’s demands, the textile finishing industry is challenged to use high quantities of dyes and auxiliaries. Because of the high cost of conventional animal tests, most of the chemicals involved in the present manufacturing technology have been poorly tested for their toxicity, which is a complex biological phenomenon (Ggrosblatt et.al. 1984). Only bio tests can fully distinguish between what is or is not harmful to living organisms.

Textiles are the result of a complex series of manufacturing processes, in the course of which an extremely diverse range of chemicals may be used. Some examples of hazardous chemicals are: l Pesticides l Pentachlorophenol l Acidity/Alkalinity (pH) l Dyestuffs l Dye carriers (chloro organic) l Loose dye l Volatile compounds l Odours l Formaldehyde l Extractable heavy metals l Flame retardants l Biocides Under this situation, how can consumers assure themselves of product safety?

Finishing of fabrics in an eco-friendly manner is getting very advanced these days. Science has come up with many technologies for the eco processing of textiles, which includes, Enzymatic Finishing of textiles, Plasma Technology, Finishing by Natural products and a very interesting technique which is now days gaining high popularity is “Finishing of fabrics with herb and plant extracts that are of great medicinal value”.

Various properties like anti-microbial, anti-itching, fragrance, anti-allergic, anti-septic, wound-healing, coolness and freshness etc. can be incorporated in the fab-

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ric by the application of herbal extracts. In this article, an effort is made to explore the possibility of the herbal finishing. Basil leaves, Pomegranate rind, Aloe-vera, Neem, Jatropha curas etc. are among some of the ecofriendly material which had gain successful application in textile field.

Many attempts have been made to develop medicinal herb extract treated garments using alternate medicinal concepts to cure selected disease. Many herbs have the potential of curing diseases like allergic dermatitis, psoriasis, asthma, liver disorders, headache, joint pains etc. The medicinal properties of a herb can be incorporated in a fabric by the process of dyeing, finishing, micro-encapsulation etc. The comprehensive focus on plant based natural dyes and other bioactive natural extract in textile coating as antimicrobial textile finish has gained significant momentum. The major antimicrobial agents for textile coating are chemical agents which have toxic and environmental issues. There are many natural dyes obtained from plants that exhibit strong antimicrobial properties. Therefore, coating of antimicrobial plant natural dyes and bioactive plant extract on to cotton fabrics is an emerging technology in the production of medical cloths. Recently, there has been upsurge interest in apparel technology all over the world for much demanding functionality of the products like wrinkle resistance, water repelling, fade resistance and resistance to microbial invasion. Among these, development of antimicrobial textile finish is highly necessary and relevant since garments are in direct contact with human body (Sathianarayanan et al 2010).

Textiles with anti-microbial finish not just protect the fabric, but also the user from microbial infestation.

Hygiene has become the priority on textiles as they are termed as the ‘second skin’ and are closest to the human body. This aspect calls for the great importance given to anti-microbials in textiles.

The inherent properties of the textile fibres provide room for the growth of micro-organisms. Besides, the structure of the substrates and the chemical processes may induce the growth of microbes. Basically, anti-microbial finish is applied to textile material with a view to protect the wearer and the textile substrate itself.

In a research conducted to test the microbes it was found that bacteria isolated from clothing are similar to those isolated from normal skin flora such as: • Under shirts contain Staphylococcus epidermis and Coryneform bacteria responsible for body odour • Trouser, legs and pockets contain Bacillus and lesser amounts of Staphylococcus epidermis and Micrococcus.

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• Skin of grain, perineum and feet contain Staphylococcus aureus, gram negative bacteria, yeast and fungi Candida albicans which produce skin infections as those areas are normally moist and dark In the past few decades the search for new antiinfection agents has occupied many research groups in the field of Ethnopharmacology. Recio et al.(1989) reviewed the most relevant articles on this subject in which the author has established the activity of the plant extract along with both the spectrum of and the principles responsible for this activity. In general, the review showed that phenolics are the predominant active chemicals in these plants, with gram positive bacteria being the most sensible germs.

The term Herbal Textile is used for a textile material which is dyed or finished entirely with herbal extractions, without using any sort of chemicals. These herbs are different from vegetable dyes as they are natural and also have medicinal value. These herbs have a direct application on the fabric with the help of natural ingredients, so that the medicinal value of the herbs can be kept intact. The concept of herbal textiles is derived from Ayurvastra - a branch of Ayurveda, the ancient 5,000 year old Indian system of Vedic healthcare.

“Ayur” is Sanskrit for health, “veda” means wisdom, and “vastra” is cloth or clothing. Ayur vastra clothing is made from organic cotton fabric that has been permeated with special herbs and oils that promote health and cure special diseases depending upon the blends of embedded herbs and oils.

Herbalists tend to use extracts from parts of plants, such as roots or leaves but not isolate particular phytochemicals. They argue that the different phytochemicals present in many herbs will interact to enhance the therapeutic effects of the herb and dilute toxicity.

The healing value of herbal treated textile (or herbal garment) and its usage is based on the principle of touch. When the body comes in contact with the herbal cloth, it loses toxins and its metabolism is enhanced.

These garments help in fighting many common and prevalent diseases such as hypertension, heart ailments, asthma, diabetes and skin diseases. For diabetes, Mimosa pudica (touch-me-not), cumon/cumin seeds, Magnolia champaca (champa flower) and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis or shoe flower are combined in the herbal dye. The main herbs used in the herbal dye for arthritis are curry leaves and apocynceae. Whereas, for skin diseases, the herbs used are turmeric, neem, indigo and sandalwood. Rubia cordifola, majith are known to be effective against diseases like leprosy. Katha, catechu is used for treatment of parasitic infestation and itching.

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in medical gown, operation room theatre fabric etc. also by application of wound healing herbals on cotton have a scope in wound healing/ wound dressing manufacturing.

However, apart from herbal textiles and finishing done by plant extracts, there are other textile finishing techniques also which are termed as “eco-friendly”.

Discussed below are some textiles finishing techniques that gives a significant contribution in the protection of environment.

Plasma treatment of textiles: Textile has now become a domain for interdisciplinary approaches such as application of nano-technology, development of conductive fabrics and smart fabrics. The techniques used in surface modification are performed either with chemicals or high energy radiations. Surface modification of textiles using gamma rays and plasmas are catching up the research front in a fast pace.

Plasma is defined as a partially or wholly ionized gas with an equal number of positively and negatively charged particles. It is often called the “fourth state of matter”. Plasma can also be created artificially by exposing the gases such as oxygen. This treatment has been employed as an eco-friendly technique to improve efficacy of textile chemical processes, it is the most attractive alternative as being a clean, simple and multi-functional process.

Plasma exists in two types as High temperature plasma and Low temperature plasma. High temperature plasma is the plasma found at an atmospheric pressure in its man-made form as plasma torch in stainless steel deposition or occurring naturally as lightning.

Low temperature plasma are the ionized gases generated at pressures between 0.1 and 2 torr used in surface modification and organic cleaning.

Advantages of plasma technique: l It is an eco-friendly technique as it consumes low energy and chemicals and there is no problem with the disposal of waste. l Optimisation of the surface properties without altering the bulk characteristics. l The time required for the treatment is short. l No chemical products and gases are produced and it is considered as operator friendly technique. l Applicable to all substrates suitable for vaccum processes. l The process is performed in a dry, closed system and excels in high reliability and safety. l The surface properties of the polymers which are unable to modify with wet chemicals can also be

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changed by using plasma technique.

Application of plasma in textiles: The plasma modified polymeric materials can be used as textiles, membranes, foils, non-wovens, composites and so on.

Enzymatic Finishing: The term Enzyme is derived from the Greek word “Enzymos” which means “in the cell or ferments”.

They are complex protein ferments secreted by living organisms and are believed to be as old as life itself.

They are naturally occurring high molecular weight proteins capable of catalysing the chemical reactions of biological processes and hence are known as biocatalysts.

Enzymes can be isolated from animals, plants or microbial origin where they play an important role in the function of cells and can be considered as living catalysts. They are able to grow and multiply themselves independent of the parent bodies under favourable conditions of time, temperature, concentration, pH, salt, nutrients and in the absence of antiseptics and other inhibitors of enzyme action. l Sources of Enzymes Pancreatic enzymes are prepared from slaughter house waste such as pancrease, clotted blood, liver, etc. whereas malt extracts are made from germinated barley. Bacterial enzymes are produced by growing cultures of certain micro-organisms in sterilised wort, providing an excellent supply of enzymes. l Use of enzymes in Textiles: Textile industries use various chemical agents in their different processes like desizing, cotton softening, denim washing, silk degumming, etc. these chemicals after their use, cause pollution in the effluents; some of them are corrosive which could damage equipment and the fabric itself. With the introduction of enzymatic processes in textiles, the scenario has changed in recent times ensuring eco-friendly production and are successfully used in various textile processes like pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing.

Enzymes being natural products are completely biodegradable and accomplish their work quietly and efficiently without leaving any pollutant behind. Also, the process would operate at relatively low temperatures and atmospheric pressure with little by-product formation. Crease resistance of cotton garments can be improved by enzyme catalysed cross-linking reactions at room temperature, e.g. lipase class of enzymes can be used to promote cross-linking reactions.

Nanotechnology: Nanotechnology is the science of the small with

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big potential. It is one of the most rapidly emerging are completely bio-degradable and leave no pollutant key technologies of the 21st century. In recent years, behind. With the introduction of these processes in noble metal nanoparticles have been the subject fo- textile processing, the scenario has changed in recent cussed research due to their unique electronic, opti- times ensuring eco-friendly production. cal, mechanical, magnetic and chemical properties that References: are significantly different from those of bulk materi1.

Challa L. (2013). Impact of Textile and Clothing Industry on Enals. Therefore, metallic nanoparticles have found use vironment: Approach towards Eco-friendly Textiles. Article retrieved from in many applications in various fields. Materials in the http://www.fibre2fashion.com.

2.

Wang C., Yediler A., Kiefer F., Wang Z., Kettrup A.(2002). Comparrange of 1 nm- 100 nm hold much interest because it ative Studies on the Acute Toxicities of Auxiliary Chemicals Used in Textile is in this range that a number of newer properties be- Finishing Industry by Bioluminescence Test and Neutral Red Test. Bullettin come effective. The most widely used example of tex- of Enviromental Contamination and Toxicology, 68, 478–484 Chandrashekharan K., Ramchandran T., Vighneshwaran C.(July tile finishes by nanotechnology is of anti-microbial fin- 2012).3. Effects of medicinal herb treated garments on selected diseases. Inishing. Though the use of textile finishing agents have dian journal of traditional knowledge, Vol. 11 (3), 493-498. been known from decades, it is only in the recent years 4.

Mahesh S., Manjunatha R. & Vijaya Kumar G.(2011). Studies on that attempts have been made on finishing of textiles Antimicrobial Textile Finish Using Certain Plant Natural Products. International Conference on Advances in Biotechnology and Pharmaceutical Sciwith nano-particles as antibacterial compounds. Due ences (ICABPS’2011) Bangkok Dec., 2011. to increase in awareness about health and hygiene, 5.

J.L Rios, M.C. Recio. (2005). Medicinal Plants and Anti-microbial people increasingly want their clothing to be hygieni- Activity. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 100, 80-84.

6. Uzzal S.M.H. (2013). Herbal Textiles, Manufacturing Process, cally fresh.

Uses and Application of Herbal Textiles. Article retrieved from textilelearnComplex metallic compounds based on metals like er.blogspot.in. copper, silver, zinc etc. cause inhibition of metabolism.

7. http://WWW.techno-preneur.net/information-desk/sciencetechAmong these metals, silver compounds are very popu- magazine/2010/august10/herbal/Herbal-Touch.html 8.

Adivarekar R.V., Kannongo N., Nerurkar M., Khurana N. (2011), lar and have already been used in the preparation of Application of Herbal Extracts for Anti-microbial Property. Journal of the anti-microbial drinking water.

Textile Association. 324-330 9. Babel S., Mogra D., Rajvanshi R., Agrawal Microencapsulation Method: N. & Sharma S. (March 2013), Eco-friendly Finishing of Microencapsulation is one of the It is a moral duty of every Fabric with Jatropha Curcas Leaves. Research Journovel methods of getting functional individual to adapt such nal of Family, Community and Consumer Sciences, finishes on textiles. Microencapsula- technologies that imparts ISSN 2320 – 902X, Vol. 1(1), 7-9.

10. Chakraborty, Pal R., Kaur R. (2006), Plasma tion is a micro-packaging technique in the well-being of envi- treatment of textiles, Asian textile journal, 67-75 involving deposition of thin polymeric ronment which in turn will 11. Sudha S., Giri Dev V.R., Neelkandan R., coating on small particles of solid or be the well-being of living (2006), Plasma application in textiles- An overview, Journal of the Textile Association, 25-29 liquid. This process is more advanorganisms too.

12. http:/www.4thstate.com tageous to conventional process in 13.Boyer P.D. (1959) , “Handbook of Enzymes” . terms of economy, energy saving, ecoEd. P.D. Boyer, Vol 1, 136 friendliness and controlled release of substances. The 14. Shah D.L. (1990), Man-made Textiles in India, 33, 426 anti-bacterial agents reside in colloidal suspension with 15. Mitra A., Saylee P., Rathi C.L. (1995), Chemical Weekly, 12, 155 the amorphous zone of the polymeric binder so that 16. Anon, “Enzymatic Big-Bang” Sandoz product information broa reservoir of agent is present in solid/ solution within chure, Basle 17. Li Y., Hardin R.(1997), Text. Chem. Color. 29(8), 71 the polymer matrix.

18. Duron N. et al., (2007), Journal of bio-medical nanotechnology, 3, Conclusion 203-208 19. Kavita T., Padmashwini R., Giridev V.R., Neel There are many plant extracts having a great medical importance. Up till now, these extracts and herbs kantahn R. (2006), Synthetic Fibres, 4-15 20. Malik T. et al., http://www.fibre2fashion.com were only taken orally or have been applied directly on 21. Sivaramkarishnan C.N. (2007), Colourage, 36-38 skin to treat various ailments. But now, there has been 22. Tilagavathi G., S. Krishna Bala (2007), Indian Journal of a new mode of medical treatment by the use of these Fibre and Textile Research, 32, 351-354 herbal extracts in textile application also.

23. Shroff J.J. (2001), Textiles and Ecology, Colourage, 17-18 24. Srinivasan G.(2013), N9 Pure SilverTM Antimicrobial for hygieneic Plasma technique, Enzymatic finishing, Nanotechtextile applications, Asian Textile Journal, 52-58 nology and Microencapsulation are also very good pro25. Pratibhan M., SrikrishnanM.R., Viju S. (2012), Antimicrobial and cesses for giving eco-friendly finishes. The plasma techOdour control finishing of textiles, Asian Dyer, 50-52 q nique has been proved very effective as it consumes low energy and chemicals and there is no problem with the disposal of waste. Enzymes being natural products

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MANUFACTURING FOCUS

Role of HR in Manufacturing Set- Up Mr. Harish Chatterjee VP- Manufacturing

We observe a sea change between the organization culture in a corporate office and in a manufacturing set up. People have a misconception about Manufacturing units to be dusty, managers not interested into human resources. In reality, we experience the other side of the coin. We observe highly engaged workforce in clean environments and the staff constantly managing and optimizing human resources at the micro level.

To build a focused factory we have to align our manufacturing strategies with the corporate strategies.

Similarly, the HR has to align its policies accordingly.

Therefore, both the corporate and manufacturing HR should sail on the same boat.

To be an effective Manufacturing HR, one should get hold of the manufacturing process. It is rightly said that HR professionals with manufacturing experience have a better grasp of the business. The central human resource department needs to identify several critical areas where HR can ensure that the human side of manufacturing management creates lasting value for the organization.

In the course of transformation and change management lack of information flow occurs between the manufacturing HR and Corporate HR. several initiatives are taken by the organization which do not go in line with the manufacturing operations. The functions of Corporate HR are quite different from the manufacturing set-ups therefore few initiatives do not go well with the manufacturing facility like Flexible timing, variable pay, appraisals, increments on basis of bell curve etc.

Human resource staff insist on consistent application of workplace policies. Therefore, line managers who deviate from enforcing workplace policies in their departments due to unforced reasons may find human resources staff at odds with them. For example flexible timing does not suit a Manufacturing facility and we have to avoid people to avail the policy. This lowers the morale of the staff. Low employee morale and poor motivation then become problems for HR to reMay 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

solve, forming a basis for conflict between HR and line management. a) Communications and monitoring the people pulse in manufacturing.

The corporate and plant HR together must monitor and involve line managers into policy building activities and build a great partnership with the shop floor workmen and staff for better understanding of the Manufacturing scenario and smooth operations in future. HR should also be like a parental and caring figure for the shop floor workmen and staff. b) Integrating Corporate HR and Plant HR to build a better Manufacturing Culture.

Working in an office typically from morning nine to evening six job is quite different than working in shop floor handling men, machine and production efficiently. It is very difficult for a corporate person without experience in manufacturing to understand the mentality and work culture of shop floor. Therefore rotation of the HR should be done to understand the practices and build an effective dialog between the both.

Making any policy for manufacturing set up, it is necessary to be part of manufacturing work culture for quite a long time. When we are communicating the policies, it should be clearly explained among the staff as the chances to misinterpret is high.

The Role of HR in Manufacturing set up is very important for handling the workmen as the present workmen are qualified and well aware of the work environment and government policies. It is very important to handle them with lot of care and sensitivity. In a corporate world people approach you during a problem but in a manufacturing world you go to them.

Successful integration of HR produces a profound cultural change, with major impact for the manufacturing people. As the corporate and plant HR work together, the HR function will be instrumental to sustaining that new culture for the benefit of the organization, its people, and its customers. q

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REVIEW PAPER

Smart technology used for smart textile manufacturing

Abstract Clothing is one of the three basic human needs from primitive ages, Textile is used for clothing which was extended to household and domestic purposes. But in the present scenario, there are textiles that can think for themselves. My paper is based on smart textile. As the name suggest, “smart textile are which sense or stimuli the environmental condition they can change or react automatically to their surroundings.� My emphasis is placed on the seamless integration between the fabric and the electronic elements using fibertronics and in phase changing materials, microphones in gloves, sensors in mattresses, fabric which sense heart rate of person. After several introspections and findings through various books, references and websites.

I have concluded that with the use of smart textile the fabric of future will enhance in helping people in the field of medical and for security purpose and also in fashion clothing. This can prove to be the next biggest revolution in the textile industry.

Keywords:- phase changing material (pcm), Microencapsulation, Fibertronics.

1. Introduction:Intelligent textiles represent the next generation of fibers, fabrics and articles produced from them .They can be described as textile materials that think for themselves, for example through the incorporation of electronic devices or smart materials. Many intelligent textiles already feature in advanced types of clothing, principally for protection and safety and for added fashion or convenience. As the name suggest, smart textiles, which can sense or stimuli the environmental condition. But there is some substantive difference between smart & intelligent textile. Smart textiles or materials can be defined as the materials & structures which have sense or can sense the environmental condition or stimuli whereas intelligent textile can be defined as textile structures which not only can sense but can also react & respond to environmental condition or stimuli. These stimuli as well as response could be mechanical, thermal, electric, magnetic or from other

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Shyam Barhanpurkar, Ajay Joshi, Ayush Kumar, Alok Kumar Assistant Professor, UPTTI KANPUR Associate professor Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Indore

source. Smart textile is also known as E-textile. They are fabrics that enable computing, digital components, and electronics to be embedded in them. Part of the development of wearable technology, they are known as intelligent clothing or smart clothing because they allow for the incorporation of built-in technological elements in everyday textiles and clothes. Electronic textiles do not strictly encompass wearable computing because emphasis is placed on the seamless integration between the fabric and the electronic elements, such as cables, microcontrollers, sensors and actuators. The field of embedding advanced electronic components onto textile fibers is sometimes called Fibertronics.(1) (2) Smart textiles can be divided in to four categories:1. Passive Smart Textiles.

2. Active Smart Textiles.

3. Very Smart Textiles.

4. Intelligent Textiles.

1. Passive smart textile: - The first generations of smart textiles, which can only sense the environmental conditions or stimulus , are called Passive Smart Textiles.

2 . Active Smart Textile: - The Second Generation has both actuators and sensors. The actuators act upon the detected signal either directly or from a central control unit. Active smart textiles are shape memory, chameleonic, water resistant and various permeable, heat storage, thermal regulated, vapor absorbing, heat evolving fabric and electrically heated suits.

3. Very smart textiles: - Very smart textiles are the third generation of smart textiles, which can sense, react and adopt themselves to environmental conditions or stimuli. A very smart or intelligent textile essentially consists of a unit, which works like the brain, with cognition, reasoning and activating capacities..(1) (3) 4. Intelligent Textiles: - which are those capable of responding or activated to perform a function in a manual pre-programmed manner.

Smart fabrics are little bit different from general

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fabrics this fabrics has additional features which makes this fabric different this fabrics help the person to know about their body condition and other Para meters of the body and not only this fabrics helps person to know about their body condition they also help in making one person’s life entertaining by attaching speakers,microphones and LED screen and gaming consoles in fabric. To provide all this features in fabric various concepts are used in manufacturing of this fabrics. Now a day’s smart textile has wide use in medical textile. for making smart fabric yarn is get weaved with wires which helps in circulating signals and electricity in a fabric due to this all the parts which are attached in fabric can able to work this concept is known as fibertronics, and this are get managed in that that it could not harm the person body when they wear that fabric on their body.

The design process of an smart textile should appreciate the complexity, cost, and effectiveness of system.

This process must be based on a set of percept derived from the experience and developing concepts.

Functions of smart textile:Basically smart textile has 5 functions which are:1. Sensors.

2. Data processing.

3. Actuators 4. Storage.

5. Communication 1. Sensors:- its function is to sense the external environmental condition and capture the actual environmental parameters. Ex .blood pressure measuring sensor, pulse rate measuring sensor.

2. Data processing:- its function is to process the data which was collected by various embedded materials and respond to external stimuli according to the condition. Ex. processors 3. Actuators:- its function is to respond on the data which was sensed by the sensors and coordinate to obtain appropriate output.

4. storage:- its function is to store the data related to external enviormental stimuli which was collected by various sensors and others material .

5. Communication:- sometimes smart clothes needs to interact or communicate with input others devices or other external devices to transfer information related to external stilmuli. so various wireless devices like Bluetooth device, wifi, speakers are embedded in fabric which helps to transfer the information of present place. which helps to react according to external stimuli. (4)

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3. PCM (phase changing material) in Smart textile:Fundamental principles of science are now increasingly employed for manufacturing innovative textile products. One such principle is ‘Phase Change’, the process of going from one physical state to another, i.e., from a solid to a liquid. Substances that undergo the process of Phase Change are better known as Phase Change Materials (PCMs). These materials store, release or absorb heat as they oscillate between solid and liquid form. They give off heat as they change to a solid state and absorb as they return to a liquid state.

The three fundamental phases of matter solid, liquid, and gas are known, but others are considered to exist, including crystalline, colloid, glassy, amorphous, and plasma phases. The technology of PCMs relies on their change in state, generally from solid to liquid and back, but also from liquid and gaseous states, solid and gaseous states and even solid to solid states. When the temperature increases and reaches the melting point of the PCM, the melted PCM absorbs heat, inhibiting the flow of thermal energy through the fabric, and maintaining its temperature constant. When the external conditions and the PCM cools down and solidifies, the reverse occurs, and heat is released to keep the wearer warm see. This phenomenon only occurs over a specific temperature or temperature range for any specific PCM. It is also a unique way of transmitting comfort by absorbing excess heat and releasing it when needed.

The way PCMs work is explained by the fact that when altering phase, they display a very large latent heat and while doing so they retain the energy and provide insulation. Since the process of phase change is dynamic, the materials are constantly changing from a solid to a liquid and back depending upon level of physical activity of the body and outside temperature. To obtain these unique and fantastic properties of PCM phenomena of micro encapsulation is used.

Textile treatment with PCM microcapsules Microencapsulated PCMs can either be distributed within fibres or coated onto the fabric (Figure 1). Whilst the concept of using PCMs is clearly a very attractive one, there are still a number of limitations. Acrylic is the only commercially available fibre that is compatible with PCMs, and there is an upper limit to the amount of PCM that can be incorporated in the fibres before tensile properties are appreciably reduced. Where PCMs have been coated onto fabrics, fabric hand may be compromised, and durability to abrasion during wear and to washing and dry-cleaning may be lowered.(5) Depending on the application, there are three different possibilities to apply microencapsules: 1. the microcapsules can be located inside the fiber. The fiber can be processed in the normal way and

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these types of products are being worn next to skin.

2. It can be used as coating. This can be applied to different materials for using different products.

3. It can also be applied a foam for products such as shoes and helmets.

4. Applications of textiles containing PCMs • Lifestyle apparel – smart jackets, vests, men’s and women’s hats, gloves and rainwear • Outdoor active wear apparel – jackets and jacket lining, boots, golf shoes, trekking shoes, socks, ski and snowboard gloves.

The use of phase change materials (PCMs) in Smart textiles is an alternative form of improving the insulation of the textiles to the high volume insulation, which is the standard insulation applied when using nonwoven.

5. A Smart fabric which clean without washing or using water:As in daily life we wear fabrics and it also gets dirty we have to clean by washing which require lot of water and time and we can use it when it will dry all the way which require lot of time but some scientist has find solution of this problem and they are still working on it they introduce a new concept in which dirty cloth get clean without washing cloth are gets cleaned by exposing it in sunlight. This technique is very helpful which saves lot of water, time, and money of people. as water is a must need thing for human civilization lot of water is get wasted in cleaning cloth this technology is very good which save lot of water. Nowadays peoples are very busy in their work that they do not have time for clean their daily wear cloths also people who are working in kitchens having headache to wash their garments. Also military peoples have to survive in such drastic condition that they cannot wash their cloths.(6) Recent experiments show that cotton fabric coated with the right mixture of chemicals can dissolve stains and remove odors after only a few hours in the sun.

Handy fabric gets its self-cleaning abilities from a chemical mixture that coats the cotton threads. The coating includes substances known as photo catalysts, which trigger chemical reactions in light. One of those photo catalysts, called titanium dioxide, helps sunscreen block the sun and is used as tattoo ink. Another, called silver iodide, is used for developing photographs. Researchers have previously shown that titanium dioxide mixtures could remove stains in clothes — but with exposure to ultraviolet, not visible, light. (The waves of ultraviolet light are more energetic and shorter than those of visible light.)

Techniques of photo catalyst method is explained here :-

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5.1. Working of photo catalyst method:The self-cleaning fabrics work using the photo catalytic properties of titanium dioxide, compound used in much new nanotechnology solar cell applications. The fabric is coated with a thin layer of titanium dioxide particles that measure only 20 nanometers in diameter. When this semi-conductive layer is exposed to light, photons with energy equal to or greater than the band gap of the titanium dioxide excite electrons up to the conduction band. The excited electrons within the crystal structure react with oxygen atoms in the air, creating free-radical oxygen. These oxygen atoms are powerful oxidizing agents, which can break down most carbon-based compounds through oxidationreduction reactions. In these reactions, the organic compounds (i.e. dirt, pollutants, and micro organisms) are broken down into substances such as carbon dioxide and water. Since the titanium dioxide only acts as a catalyst to the reactions, it is never used up. This allows the coating to continue breaking down stains over and over.

Problems related with self cleaningTextile:1. As in this process we use many chemicals which can harm to our body. The scientists can’t start selling their self-cleaning cotton just yet; scientists still need to make sure the coated cotton won’t harm those who wear it. Although titanium dioxide is used in some foods, recent experiments have shown that it can cause health problems if it gets in the lungs. So before the material can be worn, scientists need to find a way to make it safe.(8) 6. Smart mattress which sense our body:Nowadays scientist has discovered a new type of mattress by embedding various sensors in it by this sensors the body of a person is sensed andvarious parts in yhe body and their conditions are easily detected.this type of mattress is very useful in field of medical.In early days patients body are attached with various wires during treatment this wire are attached due to get accurate information of body parts which needs lots of concentration of persons working their. but with introduction of this advance mattress numerous improvements in the medical field have been made to reduce the number of monitors physically attached to a patient and the size and number of devices in a hospital room by integrating certain sensor devices into the existing bedding of a patient. A mattress pad has at least two pressure-sensitive piezoelectric sensors positioned in a rigid pad beneath the patient’s mattress. The mattress pad includes a processor to receive all sensor measurements and calculate heart and respiration rates, which are determined by subtracting the pressure signals corresponding to the upper body and the lower body of a www.textilevaluechain.com

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patient and mathematically determining the maximum difference of signal between each group of sensors.

The heart and respiration rates are then transmitted by a cable to existing patient monitoring equipment.

A Smart Mattress as described herein would include a data storage unit (“DSU�) for storing patient information (e.g., demographics such as name, height, weight, gender, date of birth, race, religion, blood type and other patient particulars), physiological sensors for automatically updating the patient’s vital statistics (e.g., body temperature, systolic and diastolic blood pressures, pulse, respiratory rate, pulse oximetry and electrocardiogram), and a processor for handling, processing and/or time-stamping any updates to a DSU. The sensors may be embedded in the mattress or directly coupled to the patient. When the sensor is coupled to a patient, the Smart Mattress may wirelessly communicate information with the sensor using short-range wireless communication, e.g., Bluetooth technology.

A Smart Mattress includes an on-board power source, such as a rechargeable battery, to increase the portability of a Smart Mattress. The rechargeable battery may be recharged using the standard AC wall current or the battery may be removed and charge using a dock or charging station. This mattress contain various things in it which provide various information about a patient body they are it contain processing device, circuits, signal modifying devices, various chips, data processor are used which helps in providing and storing data of person. Integrating a Smart Mattress with a hand-held device or an emergency evacuation system has not been done. Use of a Smart Mattress alone or in combination with a portable device will enhance data collection during both day-to-day monitoring and in emergency evacuations. Use of a Smart Mattress improves data accuracy, reduces paperwork, supports collection of more complete information, eliminates redundant data entry, allows faster adaptation to changing conditions and provides access to previously unavailable information. Additionally, when a patient is transferred to an alternate facility, patient records, which may be stored in a Smart Mattress DSU, travel with the patient.

7. Uses and application of smart textile for human society:Smart textile is can be used for various purposes like foe military purposes, safety purposes, fashion purpose ,.it remove climate problems for humans by changing their property according to climate which provide relief to human body and it is also used for medical purpose also. smart textile can good for environment point of view as it saves lot of water as we know water is very important for human civilization. it

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

can solve the problem of water shortage also. and it is used as for fashion purpose also. it also minimize the use of various gadgets and also saves lot of space. And as wearing point of view it is very comfortable and safe also. smart textile is also helpful for health monitoring purposes. and It also provide employment for various persons.(10) (11) 8. Conclusion:The main purpose of me ofselecting this topic and making a paper on this paper is that i want to provide information about what technologies are used in manufacturing of smart textile and I have cover some of the technologies in my paper.As we live in mordhern and high tech world so it is good to adopt smart textile in our life due to this our life will become more easy and interactive. As the smart textile is avalible in market is are of high cost because the manufacturing of smart textile Is so expensive.it is smart idea to adopt such technology on daily life by spending some more money to get good service and some more additional function in fabric.smart textile is also good for enviormental ponit of view it save many water and energy. smart textile is can be considred as a future fabric.

References:- 1. http://www.scribd.com/doc/46071948/Smart-Textile 2. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4/389/ self-cleaning-textile-an-overview3.asp 3. http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails. asp 4. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-textiles 5. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/32/3109/ smart-textiles-a-review2.

6. http://www.sensorprod.com/dynamic/mattress.php 7. http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/06/gallery-smart- textiles 8. http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume3issue4/Articles/ Langenhove/langenhove_full_76_03.pdf 9. http://www.publications.drdo.gov.in/ojs/index.php/dsj/ article/download/1982/1022 10. http://ec.europa.eu/information_society/events/ phs_2007/docs/slides/phs2007-derossi-s1c.pdf 11. http://www.proetex.org/final%20proetex%20learning/ Electrical.htm q

35

COTTON REPORT

Mr. Manish Daga Director, Textile Technology

INDIA Arrivals: (as on date: 05-05-2015) State wise 2013-14 2014-15 Arrival (Lac bales) (Lac bales) Punjab 22.10 11.26 Haryana 22.40 19.49 Rajasthan 13.86 16.59 Gujarat 101.03 89.18 Maharashtra 71.20 67.90 M. P. 18.43 16.52 Telangana 2.72 55.70 A. P. 71.64 25.65 Karnataka 22.59 29.35 Orissa 3.96 3.38 Other 1.80 5.50 Total 351.56 340.55 Arrivals in the country were estimated at 32,000 bales as against 45,000 bales received last fortnight.

Arrivals in north India were 650 bales Gujarat 15000, Maharashtra 3000, Madhya Pradesh Andhra PradeshTelangana 8000 and Karnataka 3000.

Weather: Early report by world Meteorological report and other international report model suggest below average monsoon for India in the year 2015. Indian meteorological department also suggests a weak monsoon due to early rain. Fresh updates will be issued after 15th may. The future too appears bleak for the rain-dependent sector as the meteorological department has predicted a below-normal monsoon.

Agri Crisis on the horizon: Agriculture in India is going through one of its worst periods in recent times. On the one hand farm incomes have been dented by falling prices of crops—both of key crops like rice, wheat and cotton as well as cash crops like rubber, basmati rice, guar gum and potatoes. A drought-like situation in several states last year and unseasonal rains more recently have damaged crops in India.

36

Domestic Market Summary: For the period covering October 2014- March 2015, India exported 3.7 million bales (170 Kgs). But during the same timeframe in the last season (October 2013-March 2014), India had exported around 8.5 million bales. Comparing the two years, it is evident that there is a decline of about 50% in cotton export.

In addition to the China factor, the Indian cotton prices are not competitive enough in the international market, making Indian exports less attractive.

While the export market is not presenting a pretty picture, the domestic market is picking up with cotton prices having an upward trend.

After reaching a record area of 12.3 million hectares in 2014/15, area in India is forecast down 5% to 11.6 million hectares, and production down 3% to 6.4 million tons in 2015/16. Tight supply and limited stock position of cotton may increase the price of Indian cotton by 10% Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) Stock sales by state-run Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) have crossed one million bales for the first time in two years, although arrivals of the fibre in the market have slowed down.

The CCI sold 1.08 million bales of cotton until May 7 had procured 2.29 million bales. CCI is selling 70,00075,000 bales of cotton on a daily basis, said the official.

One bale equals 170 kg. since last few days cci has increased daily sales offer from 50000 bales to 0.1 million bales i.e. one lakh bales.

CCI started offloading substantial stocks since April after the textile industry had complained to the textile ministry of an artificial shortage in the market created by the state-run procurement agency. Refuting the allegations, CCI chairman BK Mishra had said the country was expecting a bumper harvest of 39 million bales in 2014-15, way above the requirements by textile mills, especially when export demand remained tepid.

Recently Mishra had said the CCI to date; CCI has procured around 8.7 million bales of cotton from farm-

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May 2015

ers just a tad short from the record 8.9 million bales of purchases in 2008-09. CCI would factor in interests of small and marginal mills while undertaking sales, he had said.

The CCI procures cotton from farmers at MSP to avoid distress sales by them and sells the stock in the market later.

Any losses out of the procurement operation are reimbursed by the government.

International Market: China: The Chinese government announced a cotton subsidy price of 19,100 yuan per ton for 2015, down from 19,800 yuan per ton in 2014. Accordingly, area in China is expected to contract 12% to 3.8 million hectares, and production could decrease by 16% to 5.4 million tons, ICAC said.

China has slowed its purchase of cotton and yarn, to discourage its power and labour-intensive textile industry. A recent Edelweiss Financial Services report estimates China’s cotton import at a 5-year low of 1.6 million tons (mt) so far this season, against 3.08 mt the previous year.

According to Joe Nicosia, the global platform head for cotton at Louis Dreyfus Commodities, estimates for cotton production in China for the coming year fall anywhere from 24 to 28 million bales.

Pakistan: Pakistan’s production is on track to reach over 2.3 million tons in 2014/15, around 100,000 tons under peak production of 2.4 million tons achieved in 2004/05. Pakistan’s average yield is expected to set a new record in 2014/15, and is projected up 14% to 810 kg/ha. However, in response to low prices, cotton area in Pakistan is forecast down 6% to 2.7 million tons, and production down 11% to 2 million tons in 2015/16.

Vietnam: According to the USDA, Vietnam’s cotton production in 2014-15 may fall short against the previous marketing year. Reportedly, Vietnam’s 2013-14 cotton production is estimated at 1,270 metric tons (mt.) or 5.82 thousand bales. The report also says Vietnam’s cotton consumption growth rate is expected to decelerate in the marketing year 2015-2016. The slowdown is likely to be triggered by China’s reduction of yarn imports on the back of incentives offered by the Chinese government to its spinners who purchase more cotton from Chinese reserves.

Vietnam also imports cotton from India. In 2014, cotton imports from India were valued at $266.170 million, accounting for 18.5 per cent of $1.443 billion worth of cotton imported by the Southeast Asian nation.

Mali: Despite Mali’s recent economic and political woes, the landlocked country is one of the leaders in cotton productivity across the world. Cotton, which May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

employs more than 3 million farmers, remains the main cash crop in Mali, producing 450,000 tons in 2013 and placing Mali as the largest producer of cotton in SubSaharan Africa, and the 7th largest in the world.

U.S. In the United States, prices for some competing crops are likely to discourage farmers from planting cotton, and area is expected to fall 17% to 3.3 million hectares. Assuming an average yield of 912 kg/ha, production in the United States could reach 3 million tons in 2015/16.

Important Reports: USDA: Driven by growth in India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia, yarn spinning in South and Southeast Asia surpassed Chinese yarn spinning in 2011/12, and has been rising ever since. Meanwhile, yarn spinning in the rest of the world has remained roughly flat. This historic rise in South and Southeast Asian yarn spinning is in part due to the confluence of high internal prices for cotton in China, and China’s uniquely dominant position in yarn spinning over the last decade. From 1960 to 2000, China reliably led global consumption, at around 20 to 25 percent of the world total. From 2000 to 2010, however, it rose to 40 percent, even as global consumption grew. With so much consumption in one country, any policy change in China was likely to have an outsized impact.

Under its stock accumulation and price support policies over the last several years, Chinese internal cotton prices were well above global averages. This pushed yarn spinning into other nearby markets. With rising labor costs, lower crop subsidies, and the imposition of tighter import controls in China over the last year, yarn spinning is expected to continue expanding rapidly in South and Southeast Asia. China’s share of global consumption is expected to remain low relative to recent years. On May 12, USDA will release its first global, country-level forecasts.

ICAC: 2015/16 World Area and Production Down World area is projected to decrease 7% to 31.2 million hectares, and assuming a world average yield of 765 kg/ ha, production is forecast down 9% at 23.9 million tons from 2014/15. After reaching a record area of 12.3 million hectares in 2014/15, area in India is forecast down 5% to 11.6 million hectares, and production down 3% to 6.4 million tons in 2015/16. The Chinese government announced a cotton subsidy price of 19,100 yuan per ton for 2015, down from 19,800 yuan per ton in 2014. Accordingly, area in China is expected to contract 12% to 3.8 million hectares, and production could decrease by 16% to 5.4 million tons. In the United States, prices for

37

some competing crops are likely to discourage farmers from planting cotton, and area is expected to fall 17% to 3.3 million hectares. Assuming an average yield of 912 kg/ha, production in the United States could reach 3 million tons in 2015/16. Pakistan’s production is on track to reach over 2.3 million tons in 2014/15, around 100,000 tons under peak production of 2.4 million tons achieved in 2004/05. Pakistan’s average yield is expected to set a new record in 2014/15, and is projected up 14% to 810 kg/ha. However, in response to low prices, cotton area in Pakistan is forecast down 6% to 2.7 million tons, and production down 11% to 2 million tons in 2015/16.

In the last two seasons, sales from China’s national reserve were well underway in April with around 1.3 million tons sold at the end of April 2013 and 1.4 million tons at the end of April 2014. Although China announced last spring that it was ending its reserve policy, the Chinese government still holds over 11 million tons, and sales were initially anticipated to occur this spring. However, sales have not yet begun and the Chinese government has not announced an official date for sales to start this year. To bolster sales of cotton from the current season’s domestic crop and potentially sales from the reserve, the Chinese government limited import quota in 2015 to the volume required under WTO rules of 894,000 tons. Although domestic prices have fallen, they are still relatively high compared to international prices and to polyester prices. China is expected to end 2014/15 with 12.4 million tons of stock, up 3% from last season, and stocks outside China are projected up 26% to 9.4 million tons, which is the highest level in 35 years. Excess stocks held outside China are likely to keep international cotton prices down in 2015/16.

World consumption is forecast up 2% to 24.1 million tons in 2014/15. Just before the start of 2014/15, cotton prices fell quickly while polyester remained flat. However, in the following months, polyester prices have also dropped, diminishing the likelihood that cotton will regain market share from polyester. Cotton consumption is likely to grow modestly next season, driven by increases in population and moderate economic growth. In 2015/16, world consumption is projected up 2% to 24.5 million tons as spinning shifts from China to the rest of Asia. Low domestic cotton prices may enable cotton consumption in China to rise 2% to 7.7 million tons in 2014/15 after falling for four consecutive seasons. In 2015/16, consumption is expected to remain stable at 7.7 million tons as domestic yarn competes with imports. In the first three months of 2015, imports of cotton yarn into China increased 15% to 590,500 tons compared with the same period in 2014. Much of these

38

imports come from nearby countries such as India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Vietnam.

After a significant fall in 2014/15 to 7.5 million tons, world imports are expected to stage a partial recovery, increasing 3% to 7.7 million tons in 2015/16.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): The annual report of Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) says Better Cotton now makes up 5% of the national cotton production in India. The 5th Better Cotton harvest in India saw 84 % increase in numbers of smallholder farmers, spread across 10 different states.

India Cotton Association Limited Indian Cotton Association Limited (ICAL) president Mahesh Sharda said cotton was a major cash crop cultivated on around 127 lakh hectares by more than 60 lakh farmers in India.

To help cotton growers, ICAL is planning to adopt some cotton growing villages in association with technical expertise of Monsanto India Limited where both partners will help cotton growers from sowing till harvesting to guide them on better management practices in cotton cultivation and enhance their productivity during the upcoming Kharif 2015 sowing season through a series of on field activities The ICAL will constitute a team of dedicated people representing both the partner organisations, survey representative village and launch the farmers’ awareness programme on productivity enhancement, well before sowing at adopted villages.

Cotton Association of India (CAI): CAI Estimates Cotton Output For 2014-15 At 391 Lakh Bales • Cotton Association Of India’s (CAI) March Month Estimate Of Crop Output Stood At 391 Lakh Bales For 2014-15 Season Compared To 396 LaKh Bales Estimate In February Month • Main Reason For Reduction In The CAI’s Crop Estimate By 5 Lakh Bales Than Compared With That Released During The Last Month Is Untimely Rain In The Central Zone.

• Total Crop In The Central Region In March Is Estimated At 214.25 Lakh Bales Compared To 235.75 Lakh Bales Last Year • CAI Estimates 2014-15 Total Cotton Supply At 46 million bales Bales, While Domestic Consumption Is Estimated At 31 million Bales, Leaving An Available Surplus Of 15 million Bales • CAI Estimated Cotton Arrival Reached At 318.45 Lakh Bales As On 31 March

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May 2015

Government Reports: Textile sector has been identified among one of the 25 sector covering under “Make in India” drive.

India homes to world’s 24% spindles, 8% rotors and it is second largest manufactures of cotton and silk.

Besides this India enjoys comparative advantage of skilled manpower and cost of production over other countries preferred destination for investment. Govt. allowed 100% FDI in textile under automatic route subject to all applicable regularity rules. Already several foreign companies invested in India in value chain added sector like Zara and mango from Spain, Benniton, Levi’s etc and reputed machinery manufacturers. Govt. also extended the applicability of anti dumping duties on poly amide 6,6 to reduce the effect of china in this sector. Apparel sector of India surge the growth of 18% from April 14 to Sept 14 against 15.7 % in year 2013-14.

Technical textile sector also witnessed fast growth. In conventional area top companies performed well and expanded their business. Take example -Trident Ltd ( US $ 1 Billion business) has inaugurated the world largest terry towel plant and has laid down the foundation stone for composite Mills in Budni with the investment of Rs 24 billion. Lastly to cotton- world witnessed 3 higher cultivation area and 1 % cotton production (To 26.2 Million tones and India’s share is largest i.e.6.6 Million tones) in year 2014-15.

Centre raises MSP of cotton by Rs. 50 per quintal Taking note of the distress to cotton growers due to fall in cotton prices, the Govrnment announced a hike of INR. 50 per quintal each in the minimum support price of medium and long staple cotton for 2014-15. It authorised the Maharashtra State Co-operative Cotton Growers Marketing Federation to procure cotton at MSP prices.

The MSP (per quintal) for cotton was fixed at Rs. 3750 for medium staple and Rs. 4050 for long staple 2014-15.

The CCEA further approved additional fiscal allocation under non-plan grant to meet the anticipated losses in disposal of cotton by CCI and MSCCGMFL for the year.

The government has lowered the estimates of cotton production for the 2014-15 season to 390 lakh bales from 400 lakh bales due to untimely rains and hail storm across the country, reported by Union Textile Minister Mr. Santosh Kumar Gangwar.

Technical Reports: 1. ICE COTTON Signs of supply being arrested were noted and buying in dips for medium term was advised in last newsletter.

Higher Tops Higher Bottoms visible, short term uptrend now in place. Ice Cotton looks good for 72-74 areas, which would be key hurdle. Below 62 areas, weakness can creep in again in short term. 57 now remains a key medium to long term bottom. Remains buy for short to medium term above 62 for targets of 74.

Key Supports 64.64-62.00-59.83-57.30, Key Resistances 68.10-70.30-71.50-73.80.

2. MCX COTTON Cotton coming out of supply, buying cotton above 15600 was suggested in last newsletter.

Clear short term uptrend is noted on charts. Slightly overbought, some consolidation expected. All dips to 16200-15800 can be used to accumulate for targets of 17250+ levels in short to medium term, stop loss below 15200 advisable. 13970 remains a key medium to long term bottom. Key Supports 16220-16000-15800-15280, Key Resistances 16900-17250-18300-18700 3. ACE COTTON Key Supports 33960-33000-32450 q Key Resistances 35220-36000-36480.

USDA

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

39

SHOW CALENDER

May 2015

21

TAI SEMINAR Place : Thane, info : taimumbaiu nit@gmail.com

22

International GOTS Conference Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www. global-standard.org

23-25 OUTLOOK 2015

Place : Athens, Greece,

info : www.edana.org

June 2015

3-4

International Nonwoven Symposium Place: Prague, Czech Republic info : www.edana.org

4-6

Non Woven Tech – Asia Place : Ahmadabad/ India, info : www.nonwoventechasia.com

4-6

Fashion Connect Place : Bangalore/ India, info: www.textilefairsindia.com

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Place : Shanghai/ China,

info : www.shanghaitex.cn

July 2015

30- 1st Screen Print Vietnam 2015

Place : Vietnam ,

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9-11

Knit Show Place : Tirupur/ Tamilnadu, info: www.knitshow.in

10-12

Yarnex / Texindia Place : Tirupur/ Tamilnadu, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com

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15-17 Premier Vision Show

Place : Paris,

info: www.premiervision.com

September 2015

5-6

November 2015

Nonwovens Innovation Academy Place : Leeds, UK ; info: www.edana.org

10-11 Turkish Nonwovens Symposium

Place : Istanbul,

info: www.edana.org 12-19 ITMA 2015

Place : Milan/ Italy,

info: www.itma.com

December 2015

17-19 ITMACH 2015

Place : Bhiwandi / Thane,

info : www.itmach.com 7-9

Feb 2016

TEMTECH Place: Bhilwara/ Rajasthan, info: www.temtech.in

March 2016

16-18 INDIATEX

Place : Mumbai/ India,

info: www.textileassociationindia.com 3-8

December 2016

INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com

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POST SHOW REPORT ITF Dubai - April 2015

TOTAL VISITORS: 6732

Your Products

Yearly volume bought in meters 11%

5%

5.3%

23%

13.2%

9.7%

Less than 100.000 M

Ladies wear Menswear

From 100.000 to 500.000 M From 500.000 to 1.000.000 M

19%

11%

From 3.000.000 to 5.000.000 M

27%

More than 5.000.000 M

Sportswear & Casual wear

18%

From 1.000.000 to 3.000.000 M

15%

Children & Infant wear

Swimwear & lingerie

7.4%

Home Textile

7.2%

Accessories

21.5%

Large Scale Retailers

6.7%

Apparel 28%

20%

14%

Less than 100 000 US $

From 100 000 to 500 000 US $

From 500 000 to 1 000 000 US $

10%

Others

Business nature of company

From 1 000 000 to 5 000 000 US $

2.7% 2.2% 2.4%

9%

4%

7%

6%

12%

3%

6.8%

5.9% 4.8% 5.8%

From 5 000 000 to 10 000 000 US $

From 10 000 000 to 100 000 000 US $

From 100 000 000 to 500 000 000 US $

More than 500 000 000 US $

Which PRODUCTS of the show are you mainly interested in?

5.9% 2%

3.6% 3% 11% 11%

7.3%

SILK

Trims & accessories

SHIRTING

Textile machinery

Knitted

HOME and household textiles

Denim

Ecofriendly & sustainable fabrics

10%

7%

2.5%

7.5%

5.5% 3.2% 3.5% 4%

7%

5.5% 4.9%

8.7%

5.2% 7.1%

9.2% 4%

Manufacturer: Fabrics

Others

Manufacturer: Clothing

Other Professionals: Schools

Large Scale Retailing: Export Buying Office

Other Professionals

Large Scale Retailing: Mail-Order

Wholesalers: Garmets

Full package

Large Scale Retailing: Department Store

Wholesalers: Fabrics

Corporate wear - Uniforms

Large Scale Retailing; Chain of Stores

Style: Designers

Cotton

Large Scale Retailers: Hypermarkets

Style: Private Labels

Wool

Agents: Sourcing

Retailer: Garments

Prints

Agents: Garments

Retailer: Fabrics

Agents: Fabrics

Manufacturer: Textile Accessories

Fibres - Yarns Embroidery - Lace

4%

2% 2% 2.2% 3.1% 1.5%

Design - Style - Trends

Linen Functional fabrics

May 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

Manufacturer: Yarns

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