Gingerade final

e d a r e g n i G Issue 1

Summer 2017

“First we eat, then we do everything else.”

-M.F.K. Fisher

Food is any nutritious substance that people or animals eat or drink, or that plants absorb, in order to maintain life and growth.

When I decided I wanted to make a magazine for my senior project I knew it had to be about food with a sprinkle of gender politics. Food is the one thing that joins us all together as humans. It crosses cultural, gender, and racial lines; it powers all that we do. I really wanted to have a space to talk about women in regards to food that was more than just talking about cooking for the family. Do this also meant that the magazine had to be intersectional and all inclusive. I chose the name gingerade because ginger is seen as an herbal remedy in most cultures. Gingerade is a fun drink that you can have hot in the colder months and iced in the warmer months. I want to thank my friends for helping me create this crazy idea. There are recipes, q&as, and illustrations throughout this book that we all worked so hard on! This might be the only issue I ever do or it might not be, we’ll have to see. Until then, I hope you enjoy reading it, cheers!

Yours truly, Tyler

Special thanks Taylor,Taylor, & Bella.Thanks for letting me make a mess in the kitchen 3 weeks in a row.

What’s Inside Art Hungry

Marissa Baca explores the relationship between creativity and eating habits

08

More Sunny Days Amy Wright, a veteran of the food industry talks about what it is like being a women in that environment and what it is like to now own her own restaurant

Books, Books, Books

Literature for you to chill out and cook with

06

Longsilog In a personal essay, Melissa Guerrerro talks about her family culture through food

18

15

Slightly twisted

2 illustrators draw what food and gender means to them

28

Recipe stash

Seven recipes to make your summer barbecues and parties easier

31

Let’s make a movie Frankie Ortanez fights back on stereotypes while also exploring their identity through film

20

Waitress or Bartender?

Kaylee Hammonds explores the difference in the ways women are treated depending on which position they hold in a restaurant

25

Feed your mind Four books to add to your summer reading and cooking list.

Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Samin Nosrat This cookbook has been life changing for someone who

A Really Big Lunch Jim Harrison

doesn’t work in the restaurant industry. It gives you an inside look as to how chefs use their palettes to build the flavorful dishes they are known for. Samin Nosrat writes

Jim Harrison was a prolific American novelist who

in such an approachable manner that it is super easy to

wrote some of the most creative books in the 20th

grasp. Rather than just giving you recipes she instructs

and 21st centuries. He was also a food writer and

you on how to build up the flavors by tasting your way to

has written some great pieces on food. This book

the end. Honestly it will change the way you think and

compiles some of his best food writing all into one

cook forever.

space, with a forward written by Mario Batali.

Bookmarked pages:

Bookmarked pages:

Page 108 has the world of acid on it which breaks down

Page 116 is Harrison’s essay called Food and Mood.

each area in the world’s most popular acids used in foods.

It is a beautiful essay about what spirituality is and

Some food on this list will probably surprise you.

cooking himself through a writing slump.

My Soul Looks Back Jessica B. Harris Jessica B. Harris’s new memoir is a moving recollection of her youth in New York City. Not only does she talk about eating amazing things, she also talks about spending time with some of the most influential writers in American history (James Baldwin and Maya Angelou are just some).

Harris is one of the founding members of the Southern Foodways Alliance and has written many books and cookbooks about the African Diaspora.

She still teaches at Queens College and is just an all-around badass.

Bookmarked pages: Chapter 2. While this isn’t littered with literay cameos, this chapter is mostly about Harris’s adolecence in Queens and the chapter ends with a beautiful recipe for her mother’s roast chicken.

Tartine All Day Elisabeth Prueitt Elisabeth Prueitt owns and operates (with her husband) the Tartine bakery empire in San Francisco. With the opening of Tartine Manufactory, the new bakery and restaurant, Prueitt realeased this cookbook to the world. This by far is the most approachable of her four other cookbooks.

While of course this book is heavy on the bread side, there are many other recipes for things such a s dumplings, soups, and desserts. This will become a classic for sure, so best you get it now.

Bookmarked pages: Page 127. I love tortilla soup and I love spicy food. So an Ancho chili soup sounds like a match made in food heaven.

7

Art Hungry In 2015, Marissa Baca wanted to explore the relationship between food and her work output during her time at Parsons.

She was inspired by a Slate article by Mason Currey titled “Are starving artists better artists?” which discussed artists’ eating habits or lack thereof. Something he had written really resonated with her, “Over and over, various artists mention that they work better on an empty stomach or after eating relatively little.” So, for a four-day period she documented what she ate and what her stress and productivity levels were. This is a small curation of her zine documenting those four days.

11

More Sunny Days Written by Tyler Elmore Photos provided by Sunny Yoga Kitchen

When I was growing up, I was the first of the second generation of cousins. The next closest in age to me wouldn’t be born until I was 6 so I had to try to run around with the cousins that were my mom’s age and one of them was Amy. I had always thought Amy was the coolest, she lived in San Francisco and dressed like a tomboy like I always wanted to. She always worked in restaurants. The one I remember best was Zuni Cafe, a now famous San Francisco landmark. It was always a treat when we got to go eat at Zuni and see Amy. Amy has since moved a few times but is now settled in Bend, Oregon. Three, almost four years ago she, her sister Audra, and her wife Courtney opened Sunny Yoga Kitchen. It is the culmination of what Amy has been working for.You can say the owning your own restaurant and finally being able to be your own boss is anyone dream in the food industry but this restraunt not only incompasses Amy’s dream but also the dreams that she has built with Courtney.

Now that I have given you the corny introduction, I will let Amy speak for herself.

Tyler Elmore When did you first start working in the food industry? What position did you hold?

Amy Wright When I was 15. I made tea at a Jamaica inspired tea and clothing store.

Tyler What other positions have you held?

Amy I’ve been a host, server, cook, manager, and bartender.

Tyler Dang! That’s pretty much every job available.

Do you have a favorite?

Amy Well, owning my own restaurant and being the head chef has definitely be the ultimate.

Tyler Which jobs do you think impacted you the most?

Amy Being a

manager made me appreciate being a liaison between owners and my staff. Being the middleman is hard and I enjoyed learning that art.

It’s like being a teacher and being an owner. I had to learn to let go of some of the tasks to allow for private time and space. It really taught me that I can’t do everything on my own.

Tyler As a woman and a genderfluid person, have you found it harder to work in some places?

Amy I’ve been lucky and have not experienced any difficulty being a woman in the workplace, for the most part.

Tyler Has your gender ever impacted your experience on the job? Whether it be your current position as head chef or when you were a server or bartender?

Amy Yes, being “hit on” by men has always been an issue. Funny enough even though I am gay I have never been “hit on” by a woman.

Tyler You worked at Zuni Cafe in San Francisco, which was a female headed kitchen by Judy Rodgers, was the a different experience than the ones that you have had working under a male chef? Have you worked anywhere else where it was a female ran kichen?

Amy The only female chef I ever worked for was Judy at Zuni. She had much more patience and elegance with her food than the male chefs I have worked for. She was a special professional; a perfectionist who made getting the best ingredient a major priority.

Tyler Besides Judy Rodgers, are there any other female chefs that have inspired you?

Amy Alice Waters (Chez Panisse), Mei Lin (Top Chef winner), Stephanie Izard (Girl & The Goat, Top Chef 1st female winner), and of course Julia Child.

Tyler Who impacts your cooking style the most?

Amy Joshua McFadden, Chef owner of Ava Gene’s in Portland. His creativity with vegetables is inspiring to me lately. I love his flavor combinations. Also, Mei Linn from Top Chef makes beautiful food, it’s [her food] so esthetic and she uses an amazing mix of traditional and new combinations with different ingredients.

Tyler Currently in television and media, there is often a stereotypes that the women who work in the kitchen cooking have to be very manly and often are portrayed as very “butch” aggressive people, while the woman that work as bakers and pastry chefs are often seen as dainty and delicate more feminine woman or conversely a lot of female cooking personalities are told

that they need to make food that is for the family rather than just food they want to cook.

Tyler How often does the menu change? Do you try to cook as seasonally as possible?

Amy Working in restaurants is stressful work. It takes a badass person to survive so long and thrive in this industry. Sometimes being “tough” can be mistaken for being “butch.”

Pastry ches are very “type A” to me. Most of them have to be delicate with all the technical elements that go with baking.

Amy I change it seasonally, but I do have staples that don’t change.

Tyler How do you feel about the way women are portrayed in the food industry? Do you think that these stereotypes hurt or help (or both) woman?

Amy I think there is a rise in more healthy and fair representation of women in this industry. It’s pretty open-minded compared to other industries. It is still male dominated at a commercial level, but a ton of female sous ches are making their way closer to the top.

Tyler How many years has Sunny been open?

Amy 3 years!

Tyler What was the most difficult part about starting your own business?

Amy Starting off it was most difficult learning that I

had a limit, that I can’t actually work 100 hours a week…

Forever.

Tyler What about Bend made you think it would be a good place to start a restaurant?

Amy Bend has a very athletic population; people are interested and care about the food that they put in their bodies. Our food is healthy and nutrient rich which works for the energetic population.

Tyler You have a very diverse menu as far as pulling

for different flavor profiles and cultures, how do you make a menu that diverse cohesive in the flavor profiles, presentations, etc.

Tyler Is there a season that is hardest for you to create recipes that you like? I would assume summer is easiest because of how many things are in season but is there one season in particular that is hard for you to pick new recipes?

Amy It’s hard in the winter to consistently get all of my necessary ingredients due to the snow and the availability because we are considered to be in the highdesert.

Tyler How long does it take for you to decide a recipe is ready to go on the menu?

Amy Not long actually, just a couple of solid trys.

Tyler What are your favorite ingredients to cook

with?

Amy Kale, onions, chili peppers and cilantro.

Tyler Would you ever think about opening another restaurant?

Amy Definitely! I can’t wait for a new adventure, a new perspective and new items to cook and offer.

Tyler What do you think people could do to help support women in food?

Amy Support them by going to their restaurants, buy their cookbooks and follow them on social media!

You can follow Amy on Instagram @SunnyYogaKitchen or if you are ever in Bend, their address is 2748 NW Crossing Dr #120, Bend, OR 97701.

Amy I go with versions of dishes that have similar ingredients, but playing around with their flavor profiles by adjusting heat, sugar and citrus.

17

Longsilog

Written by Melissa Guerrero

“Anong kinain mo today?” my parents would always ask me before the start of every phone call. To them, ‘what did you eat today’ was synonymous to ‘how are you’ or ‘how was your day.’ To them knowing what I ate, or if I ate, was a gauge for them to measure whether or not I was actually okay. “You’ve been eating too much pasta lately. You must not have a lot of money and you’re not sleeping enough are you?” mama would say. Papa would often scold me for eating too much bread, cream cheese and a spinach salad, saying that it can’t be half as nutritious as a plate of rice, eggs and tapa. But I explained to them that as much as I’d like to make a pot full of caldereta or wake up early for a fresh batch of pandesal with a slice of Eden cheddar cheese and a cup of tsokolateng tablea, “I just don’t have the time or the money to do that. I’m sorry,” I’d admit, pathetically. “When was the last time you had homemade Filipino food?” they’d ask. I’d give them the same answer I’d give anyone who asked what my plans are after graduation, “I don’t know.”

For four years, mama and I lived in a small town in Northern Ohio. We didn’t have much, oftentimes we never had enough to get us through the week. But somehow she always managed to make a pot full of rice and a stew or viand with vegetables and/or meat. For every meal we would set the table with our favorite plates and placemats. If we had a show to watch, we watched it together and ate on our individual T.V. tray. With our placemats and ceramic plates.

Whatever we had for dinner, I packed for lunch to take with me to school the next day. In the cafeteria, the scent of fried rice and adobo would linger and friends would gather around, wondering what that dark brown stew was and why it “smelled weird.” Some were willing enough to try my mom’s lumpia and dip it in sweet and sour sauce.

Others detested the idea that I ate oxtails in stew. “But you can’t even tell, just try it,” I would say. “Ew but It’s still an oxtail.” It didn’t matter to me. But after a while, mama and I realized that it was easier for her, financially, if I applied for the free lunch program. “I’ll give you my extra pocket change in case you want to buy extra milk,” she’d say. On my first day at the lunch line, in addition to soggy pizza, I picked sliced cucumbers with a side of, what I later realized, was hummus. It was a strange taste, veggies and dip, but I certainly didn’t hate it. Although by the looks of

the portioned lunch tray, I could tell I was going to be hungry in a few hours.

After moving to New York for college, I found myself eating a variation of vegetables and hummus because it was one of the few healthy, and filling, things that my scant hourly wage could afford. Although, mama did move with me for my first year which meant that I still came home to her homemade dishes. At the time, we lived with a family member in Long Island. We shared meals with them and our dinnerfor-two on T.V. trays became a six-person meal.

But I spent more time working and studying in the city which meant that I needed to buy food or, more often than not, pack my own. Since it wasn’t just mama and I, I didn’t want to take the food at home all the time. So I made an effort to buy my own food and prepare it at home. Thankfully it was much better than my school lunch ever was but it couldn’t compare to the red lapu-lapu decorating our dinner table.

A year later I moved to Queens, an enclave of Filipino cuisine and culture. Living on my own, I had the freedom to live off of pasta from Trader Joe’s or monay from the nearby Filipino grocery store. Over time, especially without my mother reminding me to boil batches of rice for the weekday, I began to steer away from our ulam and gulay to quick and convenient “American” food. Frequenting trips to fast-casual joints around the city and Trader Joe’s incited comments of pity from my family for consuming, what they regard as colorless, flavorless food. “Walang buhay,” there’s no life or no kick to the meals I ate.

They certainly weren’t wrong--the flavors in a mixed

grain bowl from Dig Inn is incomparable to the bowls of minudo we’d have. Yet I couldn’t devote the amount of time my titas and lolas did in the kitchen and a part of me was hesitant to cook those meals for fear of not living up to their expectations and, god forbid, not adding enough salt or betsin. Time and energy became my excuse but over time even I wasn’t buying those reasons. So while my clothes whirled and tumbled at the laundromat, I ran to the nearby carinderia that served breakfast and ordered what my grandmother would cook when she was in a good mood.

“Ate, one longsilog please. To stay,” I said to the woman behind the metal counter. The serving portion seemed unequal, with seemingly more rice than eggs or longganisa. But like many meals I’ve had before, it evened itself out, “Depende how small you cut the meat, it should be pantay,” I remember my brother saying when he first taught me how to use a butter knife to slice dinner meat. With a plastic spoon and fork, I devoured the plate and minded my elbows like my dad taught me how, making sure they were off the table. I came back to the carinderia the week after.

And the week after that. Until the next laundry cycle.

Later that day, I told mama about the neighborhood breakfast deal at the Filipino store. “Wow anak,” she said, “I can’t remember the last time I had a Filipino breakfast.”

Melissa is a currently a student at The New School and is interested in food studies. You can follow her on Twitter @emgeee23

19

Let’s Make a Movie

Written by Tyler Elmore Photos provided by Frankie Ortanez

Frankie Ortanez has got to be one of my most interesting friends. From the moment I met them, I knew that they were a great storyteller just by the way they talked. I met Frankie in 2013 through a mutual friend and until we both transferred to separate colleges we spent a lot of time together. We spent many a days eating Taco Bell and listening to Joyce Manor in my car.

While the film I helped them make was subpar (to say the least), Frankie uses their voice to create video work that explores the Filipin@ diaspora and to exam popular culture’s views of asian women and queer peoples. I decided to interview them a little bit more in depth about their process and what is currently inspiring them.

Tyler Elmore When did you first become interested

in film?

Frankie Ortanez When I started watching horror films non stop around 15-16.

Tyler Do you prefer writing, shooting, or editing

films?

Frankie It’s hard for me to think of these things separately from each other as they’re all part of the filmmaking process. If I had to pick one part to have my career focused on it would probably be writing or editing though, since I would say that I’m probably the least skilled in shooting.

Tyler What aspects of making a film do you struggle with the most?

Frankie Meeting deadlines, haha. Especially when I set them for myself. Making a film requires a lot of organization and I think I still struggle with that. Most films include a lot of thematic elements that require to me confront with things I have a hard time talking about.

For me, the filmmaking process is just as cathartic as the final product, since it provides me with an outlet to talk about those things outside of just my words.

Tyler Do you see the videos that you make on your instagram as branches of your work or are they mostly for fun?

Frankie They’re just for fun right now, although I do eventually want to make a completely separate account that is more dedicated to video art. Making short form, but impactful pieces on a platform like Instagram is something that I am trying to work towards. Most of the long form work that I make is usually very serious in tone, but occasionally, I do insert moments that are meant to be tongue-in-cheek, or a darker shade of comedy. I want to be able to find a good compromise between those two tones that would be appropriate for the Instagram video format.

Tyler You recently did your own video like @breadfaceblog, what about that instagram do you like?

Frankie I like how absurd it is. It’s not serious, yet

it is also seriously dedicated to the consistency of its content. I am a fan of anything performative that involves women and food. The complexity of women and their relationship to food is something I feel deserves more attention. That is just how I interpret it, but I am aware that’s probably not why she makes those videos. I like that she provides no context, so we are left to our own devices to interpret what her message is, if there is even one in the first place. I have a lot of respect for mysterious people, haha. I am also a huge fan of bread.

Tyler How long does it usually take you to decide on a concept for your short films?

Frankie It really depends. I think the concepts are always there floating around in the back of my head, it’s just committing to them that takes awhile for me.

In starting a film, I always find that I struggle with underestimating my ability to achieve my visions for what I want in a film. When I finally do get around to committing to a concept for a film, it’s only after a long period of deliberation where I realize that I am capable of making the film I want to make. I think that the first couple of years that you get into filmmaking are really

I also think eating in itself is a very personal activity for myself and probably for many other people, but also undeniably social since human bonding requires at least one shared meal between each other. just exercises in humility. In other words, just one long stretch of embarrassment. Don’t get me wrong, you should always be proud of the things you make because you made them and that’s a great thing --but when you first start out, it’s hard not be overwhelmed by all the things and people who influence you and your craft and as a result, you make valiant efforts to create works where there is almost a comedically absurd dissonance between your idea of the final product and your execution of said idea. It’s often also just a weak impression of your favorite filmmakers. I think only after making a few films that embarrass the shit out of you, you really start to come into your own because then you 21

truly understand what you want to make and start to hone in on your voice as a filmmaker.

Tyler How do you see food intersecting with your identities as an activist, artist and Filipin@ person?

Tyler Are there any people who specifically inspire your work?

Frankie I think I have a very personal relationship with food that intersects with my cultural identity.

Whenever I make films that explore different parts of my cultural identity, it often involves my relationship with the foods I associate with that identity. I’m not sure how strong of a connection there is between my relationship with food and identifying as an activist, although everything we consume does have political consequence, I think the personal consequences of my relationship with food is something that I am still needing to confront before I can tackle anything else.

Frankie There are many and I know seconds after I submit this, I’ll feel instant regret for not mentioning a number of names who have helped shaped my voice over the years haha but for simplicity’s sake, I’d say that the three most influential filmmakers to me are Trinh T. Minh-ha, Agnés Varda, and Laurie Anderson. All female experimental documentary filmmakers who make films where they put themselves at the forefront and challenge the traditional notion of documentary filmmaking by engaging in the praxis of both autobiography and documentary.

Tyler I have noticed over the last few years that a lot of your films involve food, can you talk about your decision behind that?

Frankie I don’t think it was conscious for me at first to involve food, but my personal relationship with eating was one of the first things I tried to confront in my later work. I was really more so concerned with long takes and examining the relationship between diegetic and non-diegetic time, particularly in the ways that it can be utilized to make viewers uncomfortable. When you’re watching something on screen, there is always a palpable tension building whether you conscious of it or not --anticipation for something to happen or a cut away to another shot to provide further context. By staying in the same filmic space without any edits for an extended period of time, you are forced to become conscious of how much time has passed and create your own contexts for what you are watching. When you combine that with eating, which I think is something inherently performative, you get something strange, but something I really enjoy. An everyday activity rendered ominous through sheer manipulation of diegetic time.

I also think eating in itself is a very personal activity for myself and probably for many other people, but also undeniably social since human bonding requires at least one shared meal between each other. The collision between those two contexts is always interesting and sometimes, funny to me.

Tyler Are their certain aspects of your identity that you find yourself drawing on the most when creating new work?

Frankie Lately, I’ve been really invested in figuring out what parts of my gender identity just come from gender role conditioning and of course, the intersection and collisions between my gender and cultural identity.

Shrug. No one ever tells you that there is no happy ending to the identity crisis you experience in college.

It’s the gift/curse that keeps on giving.

You can see some of Frankie’s work on their vimeo page: vimeo.com/frankieoh or follow them on Instagram @ayokona_

Bartender or Waitress?

Confronting gender stereotypes in the restaurant industry Written by Kaylee Hammonds Photos are Creative Commons Beverage consumption, like most other things, has been a heavily gendered act since it began. Academics like Wolfgang Schivelbusch denote the gendered differences in coffee houses—like Lloyd’s of London, a place for men to go and talk and smoke and generally be men whilst they hoist a cup of coffee—and tea houses, places for women to go and gossip and talk about millinery whilst sipping a cup of tea. Our drinking spaces (here differentiated from restaurants in general), whilst perhaps not quite as heavily gendered as in years past, remain so to this day. Sports bars are the domain of men (and their girlfriends), wine bars are typically the domaine of women. Anecdotally speaking from personal experience, there is an eighty-twenty male-to-female ratio amongst the staff. The bar staff is predominantly male; the waitresses are all young, pretty girls. It is the make-up pretty much any sports-bar staff, pretty much anywhere. I had to “prove myself” a bit more than any man who might have been hired to work sports-heavy

shifts, but was finally allowed behind the bar. I was, in fact, informed that the owners (elderly Irish men) explicitly did not want a female bartender to work what are, in the tradition of sports bars, the 1) best money shifts and 2) the ones patronized almost exclusively by men. I kicked my feet up and won out.

I’ve been thinking about this for the last two years because it is such a strange gender-specific job for which I am the “wrong” gender. I started thinking about this as I read Lucy Giard’s beautiful work, The Practice of Everyday Life Vol. 2 Living & Cooking.

She says, “Culinary practices situate themselves at the most rudimentary level, at the most necessary and unrespected level.” This rang out to me as a long-time veteran of fine-dining. Often, people do not distinguish one server from another, asking accidentally of one what only another can do. Why are the waitstaff at bars always women? Why do you have to submit a photo with your resume in order to get a call-back to any restaurant 25

or bar job in New York? Why do people who have less experience often win out over those who less attractive in the bar and restaurant business? If we take “the business” to be seen as Giard’s “culinary practices,” I’d like to equate “doing-cooking” with “doingserving.” It is a public performance of the servant/ wife role that is going by the wayside as societies develop. It is interesting, however, to see it play out in a modern context, and accepted unflinchingly and unquestioningly by those who enact the various roles.

In a previous life as a waitress, I was accorded little to no respect by the patrons who sit at tables. (I should make the distinction, now, between bar regulars, and those that prefer to sit at a table. They are two completely different kinds of people.) I was often invisible as they played with their phones or whatnot, until I was uber-visible as a person who could bring them something that they wanted or thought that they should have and didn’t. As Giard says of her female respondents, “These jobs, deprived as they are of visible completion, never seem likely to get done: the upkeep of household goods and the maintenance of family bodies seem to fall outside the bounds of a valuable production; only their absence garners attention, but then it is a matter of reprobation.” Female service staff often are invisible until something goes wrong. I don’t think that this is the place for a discussion about the difficulties of waiting tables, but the million little details that go into making sure someone has a nice experience go unseen. These million little details require the Shiva goddess that Giard references. The difficulties of a complicated dinner service mimic the way that a housewife might go about putting dinner on the table, and it does require “a subtle intelligence full of nuances and strokes of genius, a light and lively intelligence that can be perceived without exhibiting itself, in short, a very ordinary intelligence.” (Parentheses added.) I posit that the invisibility of female service staff has something in common with the invisibility of Giard’s housewives.

If waitresses are the housewives, then the bartenders are Giard’s (male, of course) “great chefs.” It is this part that is most interesting to me, being neither a housewife nor qualified to apply for great chef status.

There is friction between myself and clients, often at the beginning of our relationship. They come to the bar to watch sporting events, and as would normally have been the case, expect to be served by a man. Not only do they get a female, they get one better informed about

whatever sport it was they came to watch than they are themselves. This is confusing to many. I’ve watched the relationships I have with regulars grow and change, and have realized that they fall into several categories. The first is one described above. I don’t get the brunt of it like the “girls” who work the floor do, but there is a very particular kind of American male who likes to call you “sweetheart” and gesticulate wildly with a half-empty bottle so that your “ordinary intelligence” can process the fact that they would like to have another one. The second, which involves a higher level of respect, is proxy girlfriend. Many regulars have girlfriends or wives, but treat me with the kind of flirtatious respect they might show to their spouses. But while their girlfriends or wives might not like to watch seven hours of sports, I am present with smiles, stats, and beer. (Never underestimate the power of being the gatekeeper of beer and cable.) The last is both the most complicated and the least. It is the most evocative, for me, of Giard’s work. This is the role of the proxy mother. I have come to this point in my relationship with a number of people. I am a caretaker, giving steady reminders to eat, to slow down, to mind the time. In Giard’s text, she identifies two types of relational modes: her first relational mode is that of the “nourishing mother or whoever takes her place”, the second is the relationship with one’s own body. Obviously, in a situation like a bar, we are doing what? Destroying our bodies slowly, with alcohol. But I find myself deliberating with people about what they “should” drink or eat, what might make them feel “better,” whether or not they should drunk text, etc. It is my job to sell alcohol, to disrupt people’s relationships with their own bodies—something a proxy mother would never do, but think of the “great chef” smiling at you from under his toque, offering some foiegras and fine Cognac.

Kaylee Hammonds is an associate editor at Explore Parts Unknown. You can follow her on Twitter @KayleeHammonds.

27

Slightly twisted The prompt was “think of food in regards to gender� with no explanations, these were the results. A little bit about the artists: Erica Rivera, a senior in the Journalism + Design program at The New School draws in her spare time. She has most recently started making stickers of her drawings that you can see on her Instagram @_ sinverguenza_ and maybe persuade her to sell you one. Wes Ihezue is an industrial design major at the California State University, Long Beach.

He said that his inspiration for his piece was the movie Sausage Party.

You can see his illustrations on his Instagram @datswesup

29

The Recipe Stash Here are some recipes to get you through those summer potlucks and barbecues. All recipes created, written, photographed, and tested by Tyler Elmore except for the recipe for Pajeon which was written by Sharon Kim.

The Summer BLT I had first encountered a sandwich like this at a farmers market in Santa Rosa, CA. It was definitely delicious but I think this is an improved version. I decided to use different bread and added a little bit more lettuce to help keep the sandwich from getting soggy. Also, unless you’re somewhere things tend to be in season year around (even then they aren’t good all year), this is extremely crucial: don’t use crappy tomatoes. This should be called the “BL-mostly-T” sandwich so if you don’t have good tomatoes this sandwich will be terrible.

Makes 1 sandwich Ingredients:

Tools:

4 slices of thick cut smoked bacon 1 medium heirloom tomato (beefsteak are the most common in the grocery stores) 2 slices of thick brioche bread 4 lettuce leaves (I prefer butter lettuce) 1 tbsp mayonnaise

Skillet Tongs or a fork (to flip the bacon) Cutting board Knife

1

Fry the bacon. You can bake it if you have an oven but I think that the crispier the better (without burning it of course). Frying it will help add textural difference and let’s be honest, it tastes better.

Place the cooked bacon on a paper towel to catch excess grease and then set off to the side.

2

Wash the vegetables, unless you like dirt and germs of everyone/everything that has ever touched them, then more power to you. When you’re cutting the lettuce make sure to cut the extra white part off of the bottom, it lacks flavor and will be too crunchy with everything else in the sandwich. Slice the tomato into ¼ or ½ inch thick slices. The tomato should be the star of this show, so if you want to cut them thicker, do it!

3

If you bought a unsliced loaf of bread, make the slices at least an inch thick, this will substantially help hold the sandwich together. I’m sorry (not really) if you don’t like toasted bread (weirdo) but you will need to toast the bread. If you don’t the bread will become a soggy mess and the sandwich will cease to exist as we know it.

4

I don’t know why people feel so strongly about mayo. It is such a versatile condiment and honestly it is in so many things so you eat it even when you don’t want to. Make sure to put it on both sides of the sandwich, this helps with keeping the bread from getting soggy. You can assemble your sandwich however you want, I usually go bacon, tomato, lettuce. Or if you’re really paranoid about getting your greens in and soggy bread you can do two layers of lettuce; one above the tomato and one below.

5

After that your sando is looking beautiful and you should eat it.

Swiss Chard Farfalle So, swiss chard might be the most beautiful vegetable at the farmers market. If you don’t know what it is, it looks like a big huge leaf with a colorful stalk. Sometimes they are red, orange, or yellow. I am not going to lie, it does have an light flavor of dirt. I guess you would call it “earthy.” This recipe won’t have a lot of that flavor though. This is a pasta dish that my Nana makes year round because swiss chard is almost always in season in California. Unlike most recipes for swiss chard you will use the stalks, no need to waste the best part!

Serves 2-4 Ingredients:

6 strips of bacon (optional)

4 leaves & stalks of swiss chard (I used rainbow chard for this) ¼ cup white onion 4 garlic cloves ½ cup of monterrey jack cheese 2 tbsp olive oil (optional) 1 box farfalle (bow ties) pasta

Tools:

1

Start out with getting your water on the stove for your pasta, salt the water. Make sure to rinse the chard before you start cooking. You can dry them by patting them with a paper towel before slicing. You don’t want to have shredded swiss chard it should be thicker pieces like ribbons. Cut the stalks like celery (they should look like half moons). In my family we like the stalks, a lot of other recipes will tell you to cut them out of the leaves and get rid of them but they had extra heft to this dish and you’re not being wasteful. Slice the onions and mince the garlic then set all the vegetables off to the side.

2

This is an optional step: My grandma makes this with bacon, you do not have to. It tastes good without it but the original recipe is with bacon.

That being said the reason why the olive oil is labeled optional above is because if you do not fry bacon then you will need it to saute the vegetables, if you do fry bacon, save a little bit of the grease to cook your vegetables in. I know that sounds very Paula Deen but the grease adds a good smokiness to the dish.

3

Your water should be boiling, add in pasta. Cook until al dente, for this dish I think it is relatively important to cook it this way because you don’t

Knife Cutting Board Pot Skillet

want everything to have the same texture.

4

Back to the vegetables, once you have picked your fat in which to cook with add the onions, only the stalks of the swiss chard, and the garlic to the pan.

You’re going to want to saute this until the onions and stalks have a nice caramelization to them.

5

By now you should be able to strain said pasta, add a little bit of butter (or the oil of your choice) to the pot just do the pasta doesn’t stick to itself while you’re finishing the vegetables. To finish the vegetables is add the leaves that you have ribboned so nicely into pan to wilt them just a little bit. Then add all of it to the pot of pasta.

6

The last thing is to cut up cubes of cheese and add it to the pot. You can shred the cheese if you like but the idea is so that you have little pockets (or globs as my Nana says) of cheese throughout the dish.

It isn’t supposed to be mac & cheese with swiss chard mixed in. Then, voie la! You have yourself Nana’s Swiss Chard Pasta.

Pajeon This recipe is for Korean-style green onion pancakes. Sharon was kind enough to share her family recipe with me so I could share it here. She even included a dipping sauce!

Makes 1-2 large pancakes Ingredients: Pancakes 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup ice cold water 1 tsp salt 1 egg beaten 3 tbsp vegetable oil ½ cup green onions (not the American kind, look for garlic chives or Asian chives) ½ cup Shrimp or calamari (optional)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Make the dipping sauce first. Combine all of the ingredients into one bowl then let it sit either in the fridge or at room temperature for at least 20 minutes.

Pancakes: mix flour and salt in a mixing bowl.

Then slowly whisk the cold water into the mixture.

Beat the egg and set to the side. Do NOT add to the bowl.

Next, wash the green onions and slice the tough ends off but leave the onions whole.

Set your stove to medium heat and add vegetable oil to either a griddle or a large skillet.

Place green onions in the pan parallel to each other. If you have seafood to add place them on top of the onions then pour the batter over the green onions.

Once the pancake starts to bubble (like an American pancake) pour the beaten egg evenly over the top. Wait until the egg starts to set, then

Dipping Sauce ¼ cup soy sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp sugar or honey ½ tsp gochugaru (Korean hot pepper flakes) ½ tsp sesame oil ½ Korean chili flakes 1 green chili chopped (optional to make sauce spicy) 1 green onion chopped

check the bottom of the pancake. If the bottom is brown and crisp, you can flip it. Pat it down time to time to make sure it is as even as it can be and occasionally flip it to make sure both sides are lightly browned and crispy.

7

When both sides are done slice the pancake like it is a pizza and dip in the sauce!

‘Chipotle’ Pasta Salad I wanted a different riff on pasta salad that had more Mexican influence in it. Someone like Rachael Ray would probably call this something like “Pasta Salad Fresca” or “Confetti Pasta Salad” but I am not going to do that. I am just going to give you this *weird* cilantro-y pasta salad that I think is a fun alternative to the heavy italian version of this quintessential picnic side dish.

You should make this a couple hours in advance because you will want to have time to let it sit and get cold in your fridge and let the flavors meld together.

Serves about 4-6 as a side, 2-3 as entree Ingredients: 1 box of Rotini or Fusilli pasta (I think this pasta is the best because all of the flavors really get into the ridges) 1 green bell pepper, chopped 1 large ear of corn white or yellow (You can also used canned corn) 3 cloves garlic 1 jalapeno pepper (I guess you can say this is optional but it gives good flavor) ½ large red onion, chopped ½ cup monterrey jack cheese, cubed ½ cup my nana’s salad dressing (recipe on p. tk) or any vinegar based salad dressing ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

1

Start out with getting your water on the stove for you pasta, make sure to salt the water. While you’re waiting for the water to boil you can chop the vegetables. Make sure to rise all the vegetables you have before you start cooking. You can dry them by patting them with a paper towel.

2

he bell peppers and onions should be chopped coarsely. You don’t want huge chunk (I mean if you like that go for it) because most people don’t like a big bite of raw onion. You can also add in red bell pepper it will add a nice sweetness that will add flavor.

For the jalapeno, you can devein and remove the seeds and that will remove most of the heat. I love the extra kick that the jalapeno gives so I just chop it pretty small so it mixes in well.

3

I am giving the cilantro it’s own paragraph because people are so aggressive about cilantro. I love it. The orginal Italian version used parsely and sometimes basil to get the same affect. The cilantro

1 lime Salt & peper to taste Tools: Knife Cutting board Large mixing bowl (you can also use this to serve) Wooden spoon or mixing spoon Medium sized pot Skillet

adds the extra boost of flavor that you would be missing otherwise. So, YOU NEED CILANTRO.

4

Once the water is boiling, add the pasta. I like my pasta “al dente” which means it is still a little bit chewy. Usually the box will tell you the amount of time, but 8-10 minutes is average for rotini or fusilli.

When the pasta is cooked to your desired texture, strain the hot water. Run the water as cold as it can get, and rise the pasta at least 3 times. You don’t want your pasta to be hot when you start mixing it it but you also don’t want it to be dry, so if you run it through cold water, it really doesn’t absorb it so it cools it down while not drying it out.

5

When you think your pasta is the right temperature (it should be about room temperature) put it into the large bowl and add the salad dressing. You want to mix and drizzle, don’t just add all of the dressing at once. Toss it together slowly so that all of the pasta gets an equal amount of dressing.

You can also add all of your chopped vegetables into the bowl, tossing as you’re adding.

6

7 Now the corn; I hate canned corn, I really really hate canned corn but I see the usefulness of it. So if you can’t get fresh corn, we are going to prepare it the same way. If you’re using canned corn make sure to strain it really well so there isn’t a lot of excess water in the pan. If you’re using fresh corn, slice it off of the cob and put it on a paper towel and squeeze some of the water out. Add 1 tablespoon of fat of your choice (by fat I mean olive oil, butter, coconut oil etc.) and add it to the pan, and then add the corn. Take your 3 cloves of garlic and either mince it or use a garlic press and add it to the pan. Saute this all together until the corn gets a little bit brown.

7

Let the corn cool down in the pan before adding it to the bowl. In the meantime, cubed the cheese and add it to the mixing bowl. Once the corn is cool, add it to the bowl (you’re almost done!) Now cut

the lime and squeeze the juice over the top of the pasta salad. This really ties the whole thing together. It add a zing of citrus but it evens out all of the pepper flavors.

8

Now, you should mix everything really good onemore time and cover and put it in the fridge for at least 2 hours that way all the flavors can meld together and everything will be at the same temperature when you serve it! BOOM! Done!

Nana’s Salad Dressing This salad dressing is so universal. It is a relatively basic vinaigrette but it really can be used on anything. I personally will cook vegetables in it, or put it on pasta. If you add extra garlic and mayonnaise you can make it into a caesar dressing. What really makes the difference in the dressing is the sugar. When you add the sugar it really balances the fat and vinegar but doesn’t make it sweet. For some reason though, like many people’s grandmother’s recipes, it never tastes quite as good as when my Nana makes it. What is also great is that you should have all of these items on hand (maybe not the vinegar) or in your pantry somewhere. This recipe is the one that I used in the pasta salad recipe on pages 38 & 39.

Up to 10 servings depending on usage Ingredients

Tools

1 cup olive oil (or your favorite oil) ½ cup red wine vinegar 2 tbsp dried oregano 2 tbsp dried basil 2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced 1 tsp black pepper 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp sugar

Salad shaker Garlic press (optional) Knife (if you don’t use a garlic press)

1 2 3 4

Start by adding the oil and vinegar into the salad shaker.

Add all of the dry ingredients.

Either mince the garlic or you can press it directly into the shaker Shake it up!

5 6

Give it a taste, if it is tart, add a little bit more sugar. If it is too sweet start by adding more herbs before you move to salt. If you add too much salt to something, you can’t really save it.

Once you have reached your desired sweet/ tartness you are ready to go!

Fresh fruit with honey-lime sauce & whipped cream I’ll be honest, this isn’t much of a recipe but this sauce will make any fruit salad way better. I also add a little bit of tajin (Mexican lime-chili seasoning) to it to make it great. For this fruit salad I made my own tajin but I think the real deal is just as good. You can really pick any fruit that you want. I love whipped cream on everything except melon so there is no melon in my recipe. You do you though. I also wanted to put it out there that I whipped this cream and squeezed the limes with my own hands. You do not need a mixer or a citrus juicer! You can do this!

Serves 4-6 Ingredients Fruit of your choice, I used these: Pineapple Strawberries Raspberries Blueberries Kiwi Sauce 1 Lime, juiced ½ cup Honey (or more depends on how sweet

1 2 3

Whatever bowl you’re going to mix your whipped cream in (metal is best) put it in the fridge or freezer so that it can get cold. You can also put your whisk in there as well.

If you didn’t buy pre-cut fruit start with cutting the fruit. Add it all into a big bowl. You’ll need a bowl big enough that you can stir without spilling everything.

Now get a smaller bowl or measuring cup. Squeeze the lime into the measuring cup then add the honey. The honey doesn’t have to be exact. Taste this sauce as you go, everyone has different preference for sweetness. If you want add the Tajin. I made my own by mixing 1 tsp salt with 2 tsp chili powder then the zest of half of a lime. It does have a slightly different flavor because the lime is fresh. Mix it them together until honey dissolves.

you want it) 1 tbsp Tajin (optional) Whipped Cream 1 cup Heavy cream 2 tbsp white sugar Tools Large metal mixing bowl (or ceramic) Whisk Serving bowl Measuring cup

4 5 6

Toss the fruit with the sauce. Be careful of you use smaller berries like raspberries or blackberries you don’t want to squish them. Set aside.

Get the bowl and whisk out of the freezer. Add the cream and sugar and begin to whisk quickly until the cream becomes firm.

You now can scoop some fruit out of the bowl and put a dollop (or four) of whipped cream on top and you’re ready to go!

Gingerade Here it is, the namesake recipe! I chose gingerade because ginger is used as a herbal remedy to pretty much anything. Gingerade can be served hot or cold as well so it is a versatile drink in it’s own right. This recipe because it is for summer is intended to be served cold. This is also an alternative to lemon or could be used for a twist on a margarita. Again, I squeezed all the limes by hand for this recipe so if you don’t have a citrus squeezer or juicer you can still do this! You also can buy lime juice that has no added sugar if you want but that takes some of the fun out of it.

Serves 2-4 Ingredients

Tools

1 piece of ginger about the size of your hand (if your hands are small, get a piece that is about double) 8 limes, 6 juiced & 2 for garnish 4 cups water 1 cup simple syrup (you can buy this or make it with 1 cup sugar / 1 cup water that will make about 1 ½ cups)

Pot Teapot Knife Vegetable peeler (if you don’t have one you can use a knife) Tight wire strainer Pitcher/Jug

1

4

2

5 6

Get your water (4 cups) going in your teapot on the stove then move on to the ginger. Peel the ginger; you can either do this with a knife or a vegetable peeler. Once the ginger is peeled, chop it into fairly small pieces but do not mince it.

Place your ginger into your strainer. And place over the pot. Once your teapot is boiling start to pour the water through the ginger. The pot will fill up and that is okay let you ginger sit in the water without letting any pieces get into the “tea.” Make sure to press as much of the liquid out of the ginger as you can (you can do that with a spoon, just press the ginger hard into the strainer with the back of the spoon). Once you have gotten all of the liquid out pour the liquid into the jug. You are going to have a little bit more than 4 cups because of the liquid you have extracted from the ginger.

3

Make the simple syrup. Mix the sugar and water on the stove until the sugar completely dissolves.

Once that is done you will want to add one cup to the ginger tea.

Juice 6 limes. If you do this by hand you will want to strain the juice before you add it to the drink; piece of pulp can be really tart. Slice the remaining two limes into ¼ in thick slices. Add the slices to the bottle but save enough to be able to garnish the glasses with.

Once you have added all the different liquids into the jug stir it all together. This would be the time to add alcohol if you wanted to.

Serve over ice, and you’re done!

Weird Food Playlist Big Butter & Egg Man - Merle Haggard That’s Amore - Dean Martin Cola - Lana Del Rey I Like Junk Food - Stuart Rawlings Food Deserts - The Civil Wars & T Bone Burnett Beef Rap - MF DOOM Heard It Through The Grapevine - Marvin Gaye Indian Food - Dumbo Gets Mad Margaritaville - Jimmy Buffet Cherry Bomb - The Runaways Gin & Juice - Snoop Dogg Biscuits - Kacey Musgraves Chop Suey! - System of the Down Food - Ghostface Killah Sixteen Saltines - Jack White Day-O - Harry Belafonte Dairy Queen - PWR BTTM Hollaback Girl - Gwen Stefani I thought I would give you a playlist of random music the references food to listen to finish off the zine. Not all of these are literally about food but they are food for you ~musical soul~. I also found a whole album of songs about food which are terrible but really funny. I won’t put them on this playlist though. Spotify: http://bit.ly/food-spotify