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Contents October
See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.
ON THE COVER
A world-exclusive exhibition about Prince opens this month. Prince © Paisley Park
The Guide
44
12
36
Best of the month
16 FUN OF THE FAIRS
With Frieze London art fair in town, be tempted to splash the cash
6 WHERE NOW
This month’s events, from London Literature Festival to the Royal Parks Half Marathon.
20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE
Travel accessories, from passport holders to eye masks, to enhance your journey
10 HIS NAME WAS PRINCE
Get an insight into the life and works of the legendary music star with a love for London
12 LONDON ON FILM
As Paddington 2 is released, see locations in the capital that made it to the big screen
CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017
PLAN
2016-2017
PLAN DE
LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS
82 MY PERFECT DAY 14 20
Sir Tim Rice, the Oscar-winning lyricist of musicals such as The Lion King and Evita, shares his favourite places in the city
TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S
LONDON
伦敦 | 中文版 IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017
HAIR © ANTHONY ROBLING; WONDER WOMAN © CLAY ENOS/2015 WARNER. BROS ENTERTAINMENT INC AND RATPAC-DUNE ENTERTAINMENT LLC; WATERMELON ON TAP COURTESY OF CHUTNEY MARY; BEAR HUG © ASHLEIGH SCULLY; ASPINAL OF LONDON © PETER HEPPLEWHITE
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奢华 之都 伦敦春季
奢侈品 | 时尚 | 美容 | 餐饮 | 文化 | 地图
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22 SIGHTSEEING Head to the British Library’s new exhibition celebrating JK Rowling’s Harry Potter, plus other magical venues in the capital. 36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Enjoy stunning animal images at the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition – from mighty elephants to a cute baby bear. 44 ENTERTAINMENT Be a hippy and relive the 1960s, or attend a Halloween party at The Vaults – an exciting venue under the arches in Waterloo. 54 SHOPPING Spoil yourself with haberdashery and unique fabrics at Liberty, the iconic department store. 62 DINING Feast on a brunch with a twist or Michelin-starred cuisine at one of London’s great Indian restaurants. 72 NIGHTLIFE Whisky or whiskey? However it’s spelt, warm up your autumn evening with a wee dram, from Speyside to Sweden. 76 WELLBEING At the refurbished Chuan Spa, we take a look at Chinese treatments you can enjoy. 78 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests.
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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 10 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
4 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2017
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WELCOME
Editor’s Letter
Funky town Dearly beloved, we are gathered here today to remember Prince. The showman – the genius behind hits from Let’s Go Crazy to When Doves Cry – is remembered in a world-exclusive exhibition at The O2. Ten years ago, I saw him at the very same venue where, in honour of his album 3121, all of the tickets were £31.21. As a student, this was great for the wallet, and mesmerising for the soul – I was just four rows from the king of funk (p. 10). Move over, Hollywood. London is one of the world’s great film capitals with many blockbusters, from Wonder Woman to Paddington 2, being shot here. As the BFI London Film Festival begins, read our guide to famous movie locations (p. 12). Meanwhile, Frieze London is the grandaddy of art fairs; with Old Masters and new names, it attracts dealers and visitors from across the world. Follow our tips for first-time buyers, and find out about other fairs across the city (p. 16). When I was growing up, Indian food was something that was only ever eaten at home; now it’s so popular that chicken tikka masala is one of our national dishes. Whether it’s an Indian brunch, tapas or a Michelin-starred meal, we will show you why London has the best Indian food outside of Asia (p. 62; below). Enjoy your trip!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
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®
There’s lots to do this October, from spooky Halloween events, a cocktail festival and a run through the city’s glorious Royal Parks
6 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2017
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LONDON LITERATURE FESTIVAL
LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
FRIDAY 13–SUNDAY 29 OCTOBER
FROM FRIDAY 13 OCTOBER
Did you know that Tom Hanks collects typewriters? Listen to the Oscar-winning actor talk about his new book, Uncommon Type: Some Stories, in which he shares his passion for the machines. He is just one of the big names coming to the Southbank Centre to speak at the London Literature Festival. This year’s theme, World on the Brink, explores how books can help us to make sense of a world increasingly caught between extremes. The novelist Philip Pullman and photographer Annie Leibovitz launch their new books, and discuss their varied careers. Other exclusives include the launch of the long-awaited sequel to Nelson Mandela’s memoirs Long Walk to Freedom with Dare Not Linger: The Presidential Years. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
The London Transport Museum’s latest exhibition Poster Girls shows off striking works by 20th- and 21st-century female artists. Considered the unsung heroes of the art world, these women had a key role in their designs of original posters for London Transport – such as Dora Batty’s print From Country to the Heart of Town and Q.E.D by Margaret Calkin James. www. ltmuseum.co.uk
ROYAL PARKS HALF MARATHON SUNDAY 8 OCTOBER
For a decade now, this annual race has been a hit for competitors who run the route undulating through four Royal Parks. It’s also popular with thousands of spectators, who enjoy the autumnal colours of the chestnut and oak trees, plus landmarks including Buckingham Palace and the Royal Albert Hall. www.royalparkshalf.com
THE BEATLES THURSDAY 5–SATURDAY 7 OCTOBER
Celebrate the 50th anniversary of the release of The Beatles’ album Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band at RAIN: A Tribute to The Beatles at the London Palladium. The concert’s 46 songs include the group’s numerous hits, plus songs the Fab Four recorded but never performed. www.raintribute.com
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OCTOBER
LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK MONDAY 2–SUNDAY 8 OCTOBER
Expect the perfect mix to be created during London Cocktail Week, an annual event with a large dose of mixology magic. Whether you like it shaken, stirred or muddled, taste bespoke drinks for £6 in the special cocktail village during the event, or from more than 250 venues and pop-ups throughout the city. You can also experience masterclasses and distillery tours, and discover flavours you never even knew existed. www.drinkup.london
DIWALI AND AFRICA ON THE SQUARE SATURDAY 14–SUNDAY 15 OCTOBER
Trafalgar Square has long been a gathering place for Londoners during momentous times. This month it hosts two free festivals: Africa on the Square (14 Oct), with a fashion show and music; and Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights (15 Oct), featuring a dazzling array of entertainment including fireworks, Indian food stalls and traditional dance. www.london.gov.uk
PHOBOPHOBIA SATURDAY 21–TUESDAY 31 OCTOBER
The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs’ adults-only Phobophobia – Night Terrors makes your worst nightmare come true as you encounter lost children trapped forever in a dark labyrinth. This immersive theatrical experience brings together history, horror and fun. While you journey around the attraction, you will witness London’s most famous (and horrific) events, from Jack the Ripper’s killings to the Great Fire of London. While this is one of the capital’s scariest sights, young ones are welcome: ask for a Guardian Angel Tour and they will be taken ahead of the rest of the group, and not be chased by some of the scariest characters. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com
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HOT DATES
It’s the last day to visit Buckingham Palace for its grand summer opening (p. 24) Gaze at gorgeous Degas drawings at The National Gallery’s new exhibition (p. 42) Step on to the pitch and into the press box on an Arsenal tour at the Emirates (p. 37) See the American singer-songwriter Tori Amos, live at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 52) Head to the Wild West for Cirque Éloize’s show, Saloon, at The Peacock (p. 52) Immerse yourself in a century of sound at the British Library’s exhibition, Listen (p. 24) Laugh along to Young Frankenstein, a new musical based on Mel Brooks’ film (p. 48) It’s the last day of events at the Serpentine Pavilion, a popular summer venue (p. 43) Enter a genuine courtroom for the new play, Witness for the Prosecution (p. 50) It’s the last night of La Bohème at the Royal Opera House – prepare for tears! (p. 53) See a lobster phone and a gents’ urinal at the new exhibition, Dalí / Duchamp (p. 38) Choose your favourite hand-blown glass sculpture at Handmade at Kew (p. 24) British rock band Marillion performs tonight at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 52) Get a ticket for Tottenham vs Bournemouth, playing at Wembley Stadium (p. 33) See Much Ado About Nothing – the final play of the season at the Globe Theatre (p. 50) Dig out your best flares and flower-power shirt for the new Hair the Musical (p. 46) It’s the final few days of Soul of a Nation, the powerful exhibition at Tate Modern (p. 43) Dr Seuss’ thought-provoking kids’ book The Lorax comes to the stage (p. 48) See GB’s Taekwondo Olympians compete in the Grand Prix at the Copper Box (p. 28) Get up close to mesmerising jellyfish at SEA LIFE London (p. 29) Visit the new Wildlife Photographer of the Year at the Natural History Museum (p. 36) Head to Twickenham to watch the NFL’s Arizona Cardinals vs LA Rams Take your children to KidZania – they may find the career of their dreams! (p. 26) Enjoy a choral concert by The Sixteen, singing Monteverdi at Wigmore Hall (p. 52) At Londinium festival, see the city’s past as you travel back to Roman London (p. 30) See Wim Wenders’ Polaroid photos at The Photographers’ Gallery (p. 43) Get down and groove to Chic, featuring the great Nile Rodgers, at BluesFest (p. 50) Take a tour of the Houses of Parliament in the Palace of Westminster (p. 26) It’s the last day of the Six Day Series cycling contest at Lee Valley VeloPark (p. 28) Get spooked out by the new Dark Arts, at Warner Bros. Studio Tour (p. 29) There’s plenty to scare you at ZSL London Zoo over Halloween week (p. 28)
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
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HIS NAME WAS
As an exhibition opens about Prince, Alex Wellington looks back at the singer’s love affair with London
hen Prince played his first London gig, at the Lyceum in 1981, it was so sparsely attended that Prince stomped off at the end, hurling his plectrum into the audience, and cancelling the rest of the UK tour. Alix Sharkey, a music journalist who was there, recalls: ‘I’ve seen bigger crowds for a gig at a church hall youth club, but he was insanely good.’ Prince’s first date may have gone badly, but London soon welcomed him with open arms in a mutual love affair that would last for 30 years. For his next appearance in 1986,
10 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2017
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MAIN IMAGE © PAISLEY PARK; DIAMOND-STUDDED CANE, GUITAR AND PURPLE RAIN GOWN © JOHN WAGNER PHOTOGRAPHY
Clockwise from this image: Prince; symbol of his name on diamond-studded cane; guitar; Purple Rain costume
PRINCE AT THE O2 | WHERE NOW
MAIN IMAGE © PAISLEY PARK; DIAMOND-STUDDED CANE, GUITAR AND PURPLE RAIN GOWN © JOHN WAGNER PHOTOGRAPHY
Prince booked the 12,000-capacity Wembley Arena. On the back of his albums 1999 and Purple Rain, all three nights sold out. In 1988, after the release of his astonishing double album Sign o’ the Times and Lovesexy, he upped the ante to seven nights at Wembley Arena, driving a 1967 T-Bird car across the stage and ascending heavenwards on a rising piano stage. His more stripped-back Nude tour in 1990 took over Wembley Arena for 15 nights. In 1994, he even opened his own shop in Camden. But the London dates that broke all records was his residency at The O2 for the 3121 tour in 2007. For an unprecedented 21 nights, Prince performed an ever-changing setlist of his greatest hits, on a gigantic central stage in the shape of the unpronounceable symbol that he had once used as his name. The after-show parties were just as legendary. Pat Kelman, an artist and photographer, remembers: ‘Tickets were going on eBay for £2,000. The show started after midnight with Prince accompanying Amy Winehouse singing Love is a Losing Game, and went on until after 4am. Considering that this epic set came after a three-hour arena show earlier that evening, it was absolutely extraordinary.’ PRINCE RETURNS TO THE O2 Prince is returning to the scene of his greatest London triumph – in spirit, anyway. My Name Is Prince, the first exhibition of the late artist’s clothes, guitars and other artefacts, opens at The O2 in Greenwich on 27 October and lasts for 42 days. It was originally going to last for 21 days, echoing Prince’s historic 21-night residency, but 21 more dates were added when the tickets sold out. ‘This is the first time we’ve taken any items out of Paisley Park,’ says Tyka Nelson, Prince’s younger sister. Paisley Park is the 6,040 sqm fantasy world, home and workplace where the star would record and perform at any time of day or night, and where his staff of 10 bespoke tailors worked. ‘I’m so excited to be able to meet the fans, share their Prince stories, give them hugs, and cry with them.’ Prince was as famous for his outlandish image and love of
colourful, gender-bending clothing as for his extraordinary and prolific musical output. So associated was he with the colour purple that in August, the Pantone Color Institute named a particular shade of purple Love Symbol #2 in his honour. The O2 exhibition includes many iconic stage costumes: a diamondstudded silver cane embossed with the symbol referencing his name; a black leather jacket from his Graffiti Bridge film; purple, green and black jackets from his Lovesexy tour; the long, shimmering Purple Rain frock coat; and the blue Raspberry Beret cloudsuit which resembles a Magritte painting brought to life. ‘I know London was one of his favourite places,’ Nelson adds. ‘For him to have a sold-out show for 21 nights there, I think it’s the place to start the exhibition.’ FOR THE LOVE OF LONDON Why did Prince love London so much? There were two sides to the man. One was the sex-obsessed, flamboyant performer who could rock as hard as he funked, sharing a stage with Tom Petty, Steve Winwood and Jeff Lynne for a George Harrison tribute in 2004 and outshining them all with arguably the greatest guitar solo ever committed to film. The other was the hard-working, very private individual who rarely gave interviews, followed the Jehovah’s Witness faith, and did not drink alcohol or take recreational drugs. Strangely enough, it was the second Prince who most loved London. While others are attracted to London’s sexually polymorphous and racially diverse creative melting pot, Prince was impressed by the traditional British virtues of a stiff upper lip, tailored jackets, crisply pressed trousers and the little finger pointing skyward when drinking tea. Prince loved British tea. When he announced his guerrilla London gigs in 2014, he did so in the east London home of British soul singer Lianne La Havas. ‘He heard my music, somehow,’ said La Havas, ‘and said he wanted to meet me. So, after a show in New York, I went to Paisley Park, Prince’s studio outside Minneapolis.
We listened to music and had crudités and tea. He had PG tips.’ At that tiny press conference, in front of La Havas’s open fire, Prince said he was looking forward to playing in London, as well as buying ‘some clothes – and some tea’. And London loved him back. His British fan club was one of his most ardent, but even Londoners who were not die-hard fans were blown away by his energy and surprise gigs. Stuart Green, a journalist and ex-band manager, recalls how his friend got lucky: ‘As part of his best man duties, he arranged for the stag party to go to a nightclub in Islington after a meal. Lo and behold, Prince turns up and plays an impromptu, post-mega gig, two-hour set. Naturally, Prince was the groom’s favourite artist.’ Prince was a musician so fluid and adept that, on his first album, released when he was just 20, he played all 27 instruments himself. He released 39 official studio albums, with many more locked in the Paisley Park vaults, and sold 100 million records, winning seven Grammy Awards, seven Brit Awards and an Oscar in the process. But it was as a performer that he will best be remembered. If you weren’t lucky enough to have seen Prince live, My Name Is Prince is the closest you can get. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.theo2.co.uk
THE SOUND OF MUSIC
THE VAULT, HARD ROCK CAFE You’ll find a treasure trove of rock memorabilia here, from Madonna’s bustier to Slash’s guitar from the November Rain video. There’s also one of Prince’s white ruffled shirts. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ LONDON BEATLES STORE In London’s only shop devoted to The Beatles, you’ll find official merchandise such as bags, posters and autographs. 231/233 Baker St, NW1 6XE IT’S ONLY ROCK ‘N’ ROLL A sister establishment to London Beatles Store, this sells and exhibits clothes and accessories devoted to rock bands, as well as memorabilia and collectibles. 230 Baker St, NW1 5RT www.wheretraveler.com 11
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LONDON! As the BFI London Film Festival begins, Ellin Stein finds out how the capital has become the new Hollywood
A
ll world cities have at least one defining landmark – visual shorthand that lets you know exactly where you are. New York has the Empire State Building, Paris the Eiffel Tower, Sydney the Opera House. But nowhere has as many as London, whether traditional icons such as Big Ben or Buckingham Palace or more modern ones like the London Eye, or Sir Terry Farrell’s Thameside MI6 building so memorably blown up in Skyfall (the actual building remained unharmed). The city’s unique combination of both historic and modern structures, often found in remarkable proximity, makes it a magnet for filmmakers. There is an average of 50 film crews shooting on the streets of London on any given day, with the film industry contributing £4.3 billion to the UK’s GDP, according to a 2014 survey. Thanks to Britain’s rich literary and historical traditions, many London streets and buildings are embedded in the global imagination. But while the Bank of England, for example, may have remained unchanged since the Edwardian period, it couldn’t serve as a location for the new Mary Poppins Returns without CGI artists busily removing modern street furniture, yellow parking lines and skyscrapers visible in the background.
Southwark Cathedral
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Wonder Woman
DID YO U KN
Britain OW? ’s was th first cinema eR Cinem egent Street a in which London, open in 1896 ed Borough Market
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PADDINGTON © STUDIO CANAL; SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL, HATTON GARDEN AND BOROUGH MARKET © ISTOCK; WONDER WOMAN SCENE © CLAY ENOS/TM & © DC COMICS; BRIDGET JONES’S BABY © MOVIESTORE/ REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; HAMPSTEAD © NICK WALL PHOTOGRAPHY; THE CROWN © NETFLIX; WONDER WOMAN © CLAY ENOS/2015 WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC. AND RATPAC-DUNE ENTERTAINMENT LLC
LIGHTS, CAMERA,
PADDINGTON © STUDIO CANAL; SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL, HATTON GARDEN AND BOROUGH MARKET © ISTOCK; WONDER WOMAN SCENE © CLAY ENOS/TM & © DC COMICS; BRIDGET JONES’S BABY © MOVIESTORE/ REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; HAMPSTEAD © NICK WALL PHOTOGRAPHY; THE CROWN © NETFLIX; WONDER WOMAN © CLAY ENOS/2015 WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC. AND RATPAC-DUNE ENTERTAINMENT LLC
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LONDON ON FILM | WHERE NOW
Nevertheless, if you’re prepared to accept that they may not look exactly like they did on the big screen, there’s no shortage of places to visit that bring your favourite films to life.
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM – As seen in Paddington (2014) One of Paddington’s most nail-biting scenes was the sight of the little bear running for his life across the turreted Victorian Gothic roof of South Kensington’s Natural History Museum. The huge terracotta building was originally constructed to house samples provided by Britain’s great 19th-century explorers and scientists – notably Charles Darwin – but today it also incorporates up-to-the-minute ones. The exhibits drawn from the museum’s 70 million specimens range from giant squids and huge dinosaur teeth to tiny insects.
SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL – As seen in The Crown (2016) In reality, the funeral of George VI (father of the current Queen) took place at the 14th-century St George’s Chapel, the Royal Family’s private chapel in the grounds of Windsor Castle. However, for the Netflix period drama The Crown, Southwark Cathedral at the southern end of London Bridge provided the setting for the moving scenes. The cathedral is the oldest Gothic church in London, with parts of it dating back to the 12th century. Listen out for excellent afternoon classical music recitals on Mondays and Tuesdays.
“There is an average of 50 film crews shooting on London’s streets each day”
A scene from The Crown, filmed at Southwark Cathedral
HAMPSTEAD HEATH – As seen in Hampstead (2017)
LINCOLN’S INN – As seen in Wonder Woman (2017)
Loosely based on the true-life story of an eccentric, who for decades lived off-grid on this 791-acre expanse of green countryside in the middle of north London, this later-life romcom is set among the heath’s grassy meadows, woodlands, natural swimming ponds and 500-year-old oak trees. The heath also boasts one of the highest points in London, Parliament Hill, which offers a stunning panorama over the city.
Lincoln’s Inn is actually a collection of buildings erected between the 15th and 19th centuries. Taken together, they form one of the four Inns of Court (similar to a Bar Association with added functions). It was here that the scene of a young Diana Prince getting her first look at London was filmed – although don’t expect to see horse-drawn wagons. The grounds are open to visitors but tours must be booked in advance. In nearby Kingsway is Sicilian Avenue, the picturesque colonnaded lane where Steve Trevor notices that he and Diana are being followed by German agents. Wonder Woman
BOROUGH MARKET – As seen in Bridget Jones’s Baby (2016) In Elizabethan times, Borough, and the South Bank of the Thames in general, was a disreputable part of town known for its taverns, brothels and theatres (including Shakespeare’s Globe). But today it is exactly the kind of upmarket, trendy area that television reporter Bridget would live in. The heart of Borough is the market under the Victorian railway arches, London’s foodie central, with stalls selling artisan cheeses, organically farmed meats, fresh fish and produce. There are many excellent restaurants and pop-ups, too.
Hatton Garden
Bridget Jones’s Baby
Hampstead
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WHERE NOW | LONDON ON FILM Kingsman: The Secret Service Senate House
Fans of the television series will be familiar with Speedy’s red awning, as the café occupies the ground floor of what purports to be Sherlock Holmes’s famous residence at 221b Baker Street. Speedy’s is a real place, but is actually located a short walk away at 187 North Gower Street. The exterior of the café has made a cameo appearance in almost every episode of every season, although the interiors are shot elsewhere. That said, the climactic scene of Season 2’s A Scandal in Belgravia was shot in Speedy’s itself, and the production team’s redecorating job remains proudly in place.
HATTON GARDEN – As seen in Night in Hatton Garden (working title) It was a story right out of a movie: four old lags get together for one last big job, audaciously breaking into a safe deposit vault and making off with £25 million worth of gold and valuables. So it’s no wonder filmmakers have been rushing to turn this remarkable true-life caper into a film, with Michael Caine and Ray Winstone spotted filming the most recent version in Hatton Garden, the Holborn street that has been the city’s jewellery district since the 1870s.
“The film industry adds £4.3 billion to the UK’s economy”
SAVILE ROW – As seen in Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014) Where else but Savile Row, the Mayfair street that’s a byword for the finest in men’s tailoring, would the dapper agents of Kingsman have their headquarters? Their secret base is entered through a Savile Row shop allegedly called Kingsman, but in real life it is the suitmaker Huntsman, which has been at No 11 for almost 100 years, dressing everyone from Edward VIII to Clark Gable and Ronald Reagan. Rumour has it the shop also appears in the forthcoming sequel, Kingsman 2.
This wry, witty satire set in Britain’s film propaganda unit during World War II’s Blitz was partially shot in the Art Deco splendour of Senate House – the actual wartime headquarters of the Ministry of Information’s Film Division. The imposing Portland stone tower is often used as shorthand for a menacing bureaucracy, whether the ‘Russian’ Interpol HQ in Fast and Furious 6 or the Ministry of Truth in the 1984 version of the film 1984 – hardly surprising since the building allegedly inspired George Orwell’s original.
BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL The biggest event in the London film off on the opening night with the calendar, the BFI London Film Festival European premiere of Breathe, actor (4-15 Oct), offers more than Andy Serkis’ directorial debut. 200 screenings of Starring Andrew Garfield domestic, international, (The Amazing Spider-Man) popular and niche and Claire Foy (The films. Many are UK, Crown), Breathe tells European or world the true story of premieres, and Robin Cavendish, tickets start at who defied grim just £5 for people medical odds aged under 25. thanks to his In addition determined wife. to films, the Film screenings festival includes take place in 10 central a programme of London venues, plus Breathe in-depth talks with another five locations in directors, leading actors and more outlying neighbourhoods. other creative practitioners. See website for the full programme. There are also gala events, kicking www.bfi.org.uk/lff
MI6 BUILDING © ISTOCK; KINGSMAN: THE SECRET SERVICE © ALAMY; BREATHE © IMAGINARIUM
SPEEDY’S SANDWICH BAR AND CAFÉ As seen in Sherlock (from 2010)
SENATE HOUSE, UNIVERSITY OF LONDON – As seen in Their Finest (2016)
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STEP INTO THE
FORBIDDEN FOREST
NEW FOR 2017 Follow the winding path deep into the forest, explore breathtaking sets and find out how filmmakers brought the magic to life T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. J.K. ROWLING’S WIZARDING WORLD TM J.K. Rowling and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.
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F N FA
S
As the Frieze Art Fair begins with Old Masters and modern pieces on display, Emma Levine discovers how you can pick up a work of art to take home
Y
ou don’t need to be a millionaire mogul to be an art collector, even if the most famous ones usually are. There are also many keen, or purely ‘amateur’, collectors who simply fancy picking up a special something to brighten up their home, rather than seeing art as an investment. During October all eyes are on London, a key month in the art-buying world, as the city becomes a magnet for collectors, gallery owners and wannabe art dealers. A plethora of art fairs showcase collections of independent galleries from around the world, and some fairs work directly with the artists themselves.
FRIEZE LONDON The main player in town is the famous Frieze London (5-8 Oct), now in its 15th year, with works by today’s established and emerging artists. It’s known for bringing together more than 160 world-leading galleries, such as London’s Hauser & Wirth and Gagosian, and plenty more from further afield. Alongside that, Frieze Masters specialises in art from the ancient era and Old Masters, while
Frieze Sculpture shows off major outdoor art on the luscious lawns of Regent’s Park. This is definitely where the heavyweights hang out and where serious business is done, but even for those without money to burn, it still makes for fascinating viewing, especially with its talks, and newer galleries to peruse. Its Focus section is all about galleries under 12 years old, this year featuring first-timers from Cairo, Lima and Cape Town. Look out for: Sex Work: Feminist Art & Radical Politics – a new, thought-provoking gallery paying homage to the legacy of feminist artists. They say: ‘The list of exhibitors for Frieze London is stronger than ever, signifying that Frieze Week in this city continues to be a vital hub for international galleries’ – Victoria Siddall, director of Frieze Fairs. www.frieze.com
ART FAIRS | WHERE NOW
AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Although ‘affordable’ is a relative concept, the Affordable Art Fair (19-22 Oct) acknowledges that you don’t have to be an experienced collector or contemporary art expert to find something you like. Since its launch in London in 1999, the fair has spread to 10 cities around the world, with one simple mission: to make art accessible to everyone. Held in Battersea Park, this fair provides an easy way to see, discuss and buy contemporary art from local and international galleries, plus there are free talks, workshops and interactive installations to make it a fun experience. Look out for: Recent Graduates’ Exhibition, showcasing paintings from selected UK degree shows. They say: ‘What remains constant is the emphasis on accessibility, education and innovation, to ensure a fun day out surrounded by great art is had by all’ – Will Ramsay, founder and CEO. www.affordableartfair.com
THE OTHER ART FAIR There are advantages and disadvantages to buying from an art fair run by galleries. The good thing is that the best works have already been selected; the downside is that whatever you buy, a cut of the sale price goes to the gallery. So there’s a lot to be said for The Other Art Fair (5-8 Oct), at The Old Truman Brewery. Presented by Saatchi Art, an immense online art gallery, this fair is all about emerging artists. There’s nothing elitist here – it’s known for its laidback attitude and works by edgy artists, who you can deal with directly. The fair is also known for its site-specific installations and diverse exhibiting areas, including London Futures, which focuses on 20 up-and-coming artists exhibiting in the capital for the first time. Look out for: Kids Create, a free treasure map for younger visitors (under 16), who can enjoy free entry and roam the fair as intrepid, creative explorers. They say: ’We have always striven to make buying work more simple and democratic, with more events and talks for all ages’ – Ryan Stanier, fair founder and general manager. www.theotherartfair.com
Clockwise from top left: Untitled Nº 5 (2013) by Magdelena Jitrik; 17 Acute Unequal Angles (2016) by Bernar Venet; Money Map of the World (2013) by Justine Smith; Affordable Art Fair; Symmetry and Increase Twist by Matthew Chambers; Good Boy (2016) by Ally Mcintyre; Affordable Art Fair visitors Inset: Egyptian polychrome wood sarcophagus lid (Frieze) www.wheretraveler.com 17
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“
We have always striven to make buying art more simple and democratic, with a programme of events and talks for all ages – Ryan Stanier, The Other Art Fair
”
Top to bottom: JinShi Pink Jade Coffee Table (2017) by Studio MVW; Palace of Power Gas Station (2016) by Shepard Fairey; The Fonteyn Chair by Brooksbank & Collins
MONIKER INTERNATIONAL Also held at The Old Truman Brewery, on the top floor, Moniker International Art Fair (5-8 Oct) certainly pushes the boundaries. Now in its eighth year, it has tripled in size and takes up the entire floor (it previously shared space with The Other Art Fair). True to its boho east London surroundings, this event is a real celebration of urban and contemporary art, with special attention given to emerging talent. Held at the same time as Frieze, it is the antithesis of its more established big brother; abandoning the traditional art fair format, visitors enter Moniker through a huge installation hall. This year’s theme, Transient Tales, pays homage to the roots of urban and street art: the century-old locomotive age. Highlights include work by Alex Fakso, a former skate photographer who converted graffiti on trains into an installation of his photo prints. Look out for: Live screen-printing workshops – a collaboration with Jealous Print Studios – which offer visitors a chance to meet artists and printers.
TOP TI S
They say: ‘At our heart, Moniker champions the urban and New Contemporary art movement, and that’s what will always matter most’ – Tina Ziegler, fair director. www.monikerartfair.com
•
PAD LONDON
FOR FIRST-TIME BUYERS
Buy what you like and what you’d like to live with. If it ends up making money, that’s a bonus.
•
Take advantage of any opportunity to meet the artist, so you can make a connection and find out more about their work.
•
If possible, try to research the artworks on sale before you attend the fair; that way you’ll get a better overview of what’s available.
•
As long as it’s within your budget, don’t be afraid to take a chance – you could be discovering a great artist of the future.
•
If you are buying to invest, don’t assume bigger is best; sometimes small is beautiful and valuable.
Offering more than an artwork to adorn your wall, PAD London (2-8 Oct) is known for its 20th-century design and decorative arts, so it’s a chance to select museum-quality pieces. Staged in a boutique-type setting in Berkeley Square, Mayfair, this is an event for serious collectors, unsurprisingly, so expect coveted and iconic works from prominent, international galleries across Europe, North America and Asia. This is the place for one-of-a-kind pieces from more than 60 galleries that specialise
in masterpieces across the genres of jewellery, tribal art, historical design and antiquities. At PAD London you can find everything from a contemporary marble and oak sculpted chair to a 4th-century Greek helmet, while mingling with art consultants, museum experts and design practitioners. Look out for: The PAD London Prize, presented in three categories: Best Contemporary Design; Best 20th-century Design; and Best Stand (winners are announced on 2 Oct). They say: ‘We are different from others in our approach and philosophy placing eclecticism at the core of our belief. PAD takes the curious mind and the connoisseur on a journey, stimulating the eye and inspiring a unique style of collecting’ – Patrick Perrin, founder and president of PAD. www.pad-fairs.com
PREVIOUS PAGE: UNTITLED Nº 5 (2013) BY MAGDELENA JITRIK, PHOTO BY EDOUARD FRAIPONT, COURTESY OF GALERIA LUISA STRINA; 17 ACUTE UNEQUAL ANGLES (2016) BY BERNAR VENET, PHOTO BY STEPHEN WHITE, COURTESY OF BLAIN|SOUTHERN2; AFFORDABLE ART FAIR IMAGES COURTESY OF AFFORDABLE ART FAIR; SYMMETRY AND INCREASE TWIST BY MATTHEW CHAMBERS, PHOTO BY MATTHEW CHAMBERS, COURTESY OF MOUVEMENTS MODERNES; MONEY MAP OF THE WORLD (2013) BY JUSTINE SMITH COURTESY OF MONIKER INTERNATIONAL ART FAIR; GOOD BOY (2016) BY ALLY MCINTYRE COURTESY OF JEALOUS GALLERY AND MONIKER INTERNATIONAL ART FAIR; EGYPTIAN POLYCHROME WOOD SARCOPHAGUS LID COURTESY OF ANTIQUARIUM LTD FINE ANCIENT ARTS GALLERY. THIS PAGE: JINSHI PINK JADE COFFEE TABLE (2017) BY STUDIO MVW COURTESY OF GALERIE BSL; ’PALACE OF POWER’ GAS STATION (2016) BY SHEPARD FAIREY COURTESY OF GALERIE ITINERRANCE; THE FONTEYN CHAIR BY BROOKSBANK & COLLINS COURTESY OF SHIRA KLASMER FOR GALLERY FUMI
WHERE NOW | ART FAIRS
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Really great days out that make a real difference
window seat @zsllondonzoo #ZooLife
Experience it for yourself at zsl.org/london Camden Town | Regent’s Park LZ_WhereLondon_Sept_276x206_AW1.indd 1 WL ZSL.indd 1
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
PASSING THROUGH This passport case is available in 14 colours Passport Case, £55, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB
FOR YOUR EYES ONLY This eye mask contains a pinch of lavender to soothe tired eyes and aid sleep Otis Batterbee Cravat-print Cotton Silk Eye Mask, £50, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
FROM LONDON Take your pick from these travel items, from suitcase sets to travel games
MAKING A CASE Stylish travel cases that cover all of your needs Leather Cabin Case Set, £1,590, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB TAGGING ALONG Cath Kidston is famous for its London prints Marching Band Luggage Tag, £6, Cath Kidston, 180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
WEIGHT WATCHERS Weigh your luggage to avoid extra charges Go Travel Digital Luggage Weighing Scale, £9.99, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
GAME ON! A games set from one of London’s best-known toy stores Travel Tic Tac Toe, £10, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
CARD GAMES The trench leather replicates the cloth patented by Thomas Burberry in 1888 Two-tone Trench Leather Card Case, £150, Burberry, 21 Regent St, W1B 4TB
YOUR CUP OF TEA This travel cup from the famous store has a London-inspired print Pretty City Thermal Travel Mug, £10, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK
Top Pick
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FLAGSHIP PICCADILLY - COVENT GARDEN - MARYLEBONE HIGH ST HARRODS - TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD - ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL WESTFIELD LONDON - WESTFIELD STRATFORD
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
Magic and myths As the stories of Harry Potter pop off the page in a new exhibition at the British Library, Sarah Riches finds where else you can enjoy the magic of JK Rowling’s world-famous wizard Discover enchanting creatures and potions in Harry Potter: A History of Magic at the British Library (from 20 Oct; p. 24). To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the publication of JK Rowling’s Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, the British Library is unveiling magical objects, rare books and manuscripts from its collection which capture the folklore and magic traditions that are at the heart of the much-loved stories. Jamie Andrews, head of culture and learning at the British Library, says: ‘We are thrilled to be working with JK Rowling and Bloomsbury to mark the 20th anniversary of Harry Potter, and to inspire fans with the magic of our own British Library collection.’ The exhibition is inspired by the weird and wonderful subjects that Harry and his pals study at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, including potions, herbology, astronomy and the care of magical creatures. Highlights include original drafts by the author and original hand-coloured pictures of dragons, unicorns and a phoenix rising from the flames drawn by the illustrator Jim
Kay, which are on display for the first time. You can also see a fascinating 16th-century Ripley Scroll, which explains how to create a Philosopher’s Stone. The world of Harry Potter is set to get even darker over Halloween, as the temporary attraction Dark Arts comes to Warner Bros. Studio Tour (from 1 Oct; p. 29). Practice wand combat techniques against a Death Eater dressed in embroidered robes and handpainted masks from the films, and see footage of Paul Harris – the world’s only wand combat choreographer – who developed the battle
scenes involving Lord Voldemort’s henchmen. Scurry down Diagon Alley, the wizarding shopping street featured in the books and films, which will have dimmer lighting and more foreboding music than usual. The set is patrolled by evil Lord Voldemort’s followers. The world of Harry Potter comes alive in a different way with smallcarBIGCITY. The Harry Potter Tour of London is available in English, French and Spanish, and takes in key sights from all the films from the comfort of a chauffeur-driven classic Mini Cooper. When booking, request your favourite colour, and prepare to squeeze into the cosy, iconic car. You’ll whizz between two buses over Lambeth Bridge, just like Harry did on the night bus; see the arcade that inspired Diagon Alley and cower on the bridge where the Death Eaters swooped down from above. Once you’ve retraced the stars’ footsteps and recreated your favourite scenes, you’ll finish at Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross Station – just in time to catch the Hogwarts Express back home. Pick-up is available throughout Zone 1. www.smallcarbigcity.com
BORGIN & BURKES SHOP AND CASTLE © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR; PHOENIX RISING IN A 13TH-CENTURY BESTIARY © BRITISH LIBRARY
Above: Warner Bros. Studio Tour; Hogwarts Castle Below: A phoenix rising from the ashes in a 13th-century bestiary
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TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY
TheLondonBridgeExperience.com The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY FREE audio guides available
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check the website for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest (book in advance). Mon-Fri 11am5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford. This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp. org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Enjoy this small zoo with mammals such as otters and Bolivian squirrel monkeys. It also has keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 0207924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
British Library The world’s largest library also has temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection. From 20 Oct: Harry Potter: A History of Magic. Books, manuscripts and objects (p. 22). From 6 Oct: Listen: 140 Years of Recorded Sound. A look at the significance of sound since the phonograph was invented in 1877. Exhibition galleries Mon 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Buckingham Palace To 1 Oct: The London
residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s closed to the public, except during the Summer Opening. Explore the stunning State Rooms and see this year’s temporary Royal Gifts exhibition. 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £23; child £13. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Ascend Western Europe’s tallest building, The Shard (p. 29)
Meet the maker If you are looking for a one-off souvenir, then shop for gifts at Handmade at Kew, a contemporary craft fair at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (12-15 Oct; p. 28). The inaugural event was a hit in 2015, and for good reason. Why choose a vase from a shop window when you can buy a limited-edition, hand-blown one directly from the artist? More than 200 designers showcase their crafts, from ceramics and jewellery to fashion and textiles, glass, metalwork, sculpture and homeware. And on the off-chance you don’t find something you like, you can always commission what you have in mind.
Changing the Guard
Cutty Sark
Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. Free. From 10am; please check for dates. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper which was also the fastest one in her time. 4, 11, 18 & 25 Oct: Toddler Time. Bring your little sailors along for songs, stories and playtime. 13 Oct: Sarah McQuaid in Concert. 31 Oct: The Thing. Film screening. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden, to train apprentices to use medicinal plants. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop, café. www. chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent, and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. Gardens daily 7am-dusk year round; house Sun-Wed 10am-5pm. House adult £7.20; child £4.30. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House and Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs who died in 1999. Ten atmospheric rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period townhouse. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design, with panelled walls and imposing dining room, and part medieval royal palace. 23-27 Oct: Terrible Terror Tours. Find out about the resident ghost dog, and other spooky goings on. Please check for times and prices. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
HANDMADE AT KEW © YESHEN VENEMA; THE SHARD COURTESY OF THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
Banqueting House
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HANDMADE AT KEW © YESHEN VENEMA; THE SHARD COURTESY OF THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039
www.goldentours.com
TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.
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SIGHTSEEING Fulham Palace
Go Ape Battersea Park
Handel & Hendrix in London
Built on an ancient site, this attractive 15th-century building was used mainly as the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a fascinating museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. It has regular kids’ crafts, guided walks and historical tours. 5 Oct: Apple Day Celebration. 21 Oct: Vegetable Trail. An edible tour. 29 Oct: Museums at Night – Blitzed at the Palace. Enjoy vintage-style cocktails, swing dancing, live music and performance. Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The former homes of two very contrasting musicians: Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel, and the adjacent flat of American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. 27 Oct: Halloween Friday Late. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses is filled with exquisite paintings, furniture and textiles. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, next to Tower Bridge, this historic warship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Check for special events. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat, plus 3-6 Oct. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for times and prices. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the much-admired style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily, please check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house, with its landscaped gardens and parkland, is a hidden gem. Free. Check for times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has two storeys of everything a child could want including TV and animation studios. Please check for occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Adult from £18; child from £39. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs This theatrical experience is an exciting history lesson on the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit and said to be haunted. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge. 26 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2017
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LONDON’S MOVING RESTAURANT Travel through the heart of the city and enjoy the striking sights, live entertainment and delicious food on board our ‘f loating restaurant’.
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SIGHTSEEING The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction whisks you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the chillingly-amusing characters. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels, which boasts stunning views over the river and beyond. Joint tickets
with SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, founded in 1826, which has more than 750 species. See everything from endangered Sumatran tigers to Asiatic lions. Daily 10am-6pm. To 29 Oct: Adult £29.75; child £22. From 30 Oct: Adult £25; child £19.50. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
Madame Tussauds Visit the celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This was built to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the steps for amazing views. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. From 27 Oct: My Name Is Prince. The world premiere of the official exhibition about the legendary musician Prince, with stage outfits, instruments and hand-written lyrics (p. 10). Daily noon-8pm. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Check for guided tours. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and servants. Wed, SatSun pre-booked tours 11am, drop in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes the London Stadium for West Ham United football matches, the Aquatics Centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit. Check for events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore a range of oddities over five floors, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.99; child £20.99. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe and a Chinese pagoda. To 15 Oct: Sculpt at Kew. Sculpture trail and exhibition. 12-15 Oct: Handmade at Kew. Craft exhibition (p. 24). Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens. 28 W H E R E Lo n d o n I o c to b e r 2017
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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Mews
Tower of London
The View from The Shard
Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life, see the ornate livery and Windsor Bay horses, and learn about the mews’ history. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £21.50; child £9.70. www.hrp. org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe. At 309m, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor (p. 24). To 28 Oct daily 10am-10pm, from 29 Oct please check. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience taking you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. After your climb to the top, you can enjoy spectacular views. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness sets including Diagon Alley. From 1 Oct: Dark Arts. Try wand combat techniques against a Death Eater (p. 22). Please
SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums has 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows, to meet characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church, with historic ties with the local Chinese community, offers tours, a brass-rubbing centre and regular recitals (some free). Holy Communion is given daily, and classical music performed weekly, sometimes by candlelight. Check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartinin-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge. org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill. www.wheretraveler.com 29
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SIGHTSEEING check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the surrounding Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey
WWT London Wetland Centre
Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs, and a piece of living British history. The tiled sanctuary is the venue of the coronations and weddings, with the ornate high altar designed by George Gilbert Scott in 1873. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. At the west end of the nave is St George’s Chapel, with the famous Coronation Chair. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
This 104-acre award-winning wildlife reserve is home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Enjoy the pools, lakes and gardens, with kingfishers, bitterns and yellow wagtails, and six hides where you can watch wildlife and take photographs. Other creatures here include butterflies, otters and lizards. There is a café, too. 15 Oct: Drawing workshop. 21-29 Oct: Play Guess Who? 28 Oct: Winter bird watching. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Bloomsbury Festival 18-22 Oct: Experience art, performance, discussion, science and music, all themed around global and local ideas of independence (p. 32). Free. www.bloomsburyfestival.org.uk. Various locations around the ares including Pushkin House, University College London and Coram’s Fields.
Diwali 15 Oct: Celebrate the Hindu, Sikh and Jain festival of lights with Indian dancing and music on a big stage in Trafalgar Square, with food stalls, yoga, henna art and crafts. Free. www.visitlondon.com. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Londinium To 29 Oct: Travel back to Roman London through a spectacular variety of themed events and activities, as the City celebrates its Roman heritage during the Londinium festival. Highlights include Gladiator Games on the site of a real ancient amphitheatre; walks, talks and lectures, and a sound, light and dance experience by hip hip group Boy Blue Entertainment. Please check for times, prices and full schedule of events. www.visitlondon.com.
ROYAL ALBERT HALL
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hopon hop-off sightseeing service along the river, which runs from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. To 29 Oct 11am-5pm. From 30 Oct Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3.40pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises
MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea
Call: 020 7589 8212 royalalberthall.com
/royalalberthall @royalalberthall
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other themed cruises also available including Elvis Dinner Cruise. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
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SIGHTSEEING London Eye River Cruise
City of London Guided Walks
Golden Tours
Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and city gardens. Free-£12. www.cityoflondonguides. com. Departure points vary.
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge and Leeds Castle. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and off adult £18.50; child £9.25. www.thamesclippers.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich/ Thames Barrier 10am-4pm; from St Katharine’s to Greenwich/ Thames Barrier 10.20pm4.20pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
Thamesjet Try the Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenalinefuelled experience on a speedboat – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. T: 020-7740 0400.
TOuRS & GuiDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.big bustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk. Daily 11am. Please check for prices. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 0207808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour. Adult £8; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including Doctor Who – on which you’ll see a Tardis, locations from the films and TV series – and one for TV’s Downton Abbey fans. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
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London Horror Tours
More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.
Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays, on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660.
Jack the Ripper Tours
See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with well-known writers. Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Underground station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 0208530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park Underground station. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Iconic landmarks include St Paul’s and The Shard. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.the londonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
London Literary Pub Crawl
London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, fashion and Brick Lane. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 routes. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, you can join a Secret Village walk around St Paul’s and Clerkenwell. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. Mon 2.30pm. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
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Leighton House Museum Exhibition Organiser
Exhibition Sponsor
Bonfire skulls, fire sculptures and remote-controlled telephone chairs have all featured at previous Bloomsbury Festivals – which give you a taste of what this year’s edition will bring (18-22 Oct; p. 30). The five-day event celebrates the area’s creativity in the fields of art, science, literature and performance, and takes place across 200 venues. Director Kate Anderson says: ‘This year’s theme of independence, chosen before the Brexit vote, has proved to be particularly rich territory. It was in part chosen as this year marks important anniversaries including the 70th anniversary of the Indian Independence Act, 100 years since the Russian Revolution and 50 years since the partial decriminalisation of homosexuality.’ www.bloomsburyfestival.org.uk
BLOOMSBURY FESTIVAL IMAGE COURTESY OF BLOOMSBURY FESTIVAL
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BLOOMSBURY FESTIVAL IMAGE COURTESY OF BLOOMSBURY FESTIVAL
Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am), Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, and Jack the Ripper at 3.30pm (from Tower Hill Station). £9.50 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour. An Explore Walks Pas grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period (£19). www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, off Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall, which opened in 1871. You will visit the stunning auditorium and gallery, the Queen’s private box and suites, and learn about some of the hall’s legendary performances over the decades. Tours most days throughout the year, please check for times. Adult £13.75; child £6.75. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Opera House
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £18 Child - £10
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
www.seelondonbynight.com
One of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company. Backstage Tour takes you behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a Royal Ballet production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre, from 1599, has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. On the Globe Exhibition and tour, learn more about the unique building and the life and works of Shakespeare – in this neighbourhood which was the heart of entertainment in Elizabethan London. Check also for tours of the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse. Daily, please check for times. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EVER DONE TripAdvisor Review
HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Sights include a trip through one of the Royal Parks, Big Ben, Westminster Cathedral and Buckingham Palace, returing to Harrods where you will be greeted by one of its doormen. Tours last two and and a half hours in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood depending on the weather. £475 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
Yonda On a Yonda tour, feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights‚ and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions on the satnav screen and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures. Congestion Charge is included in the price. £60 per 90-minute tour. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, preRaphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Free admission, charges for special events. To 22 Oct: Collecting the Past: Scholar’s Taste in Chinese Art. Chinese paintings created by scholar-artists since the 18th century. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
Meet the talking car at
Blenheim Palace
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See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 1 Oct: British Heart Foundation Half Marathon. 12-15 Oct: Festival of Literature, Film and Music. 21-29 Oct: Halloween entertainment. Hop aboard a ghost train to go through a creepy tunnel to the Pleasure Gardens. Families can lurk around the labyrinth, take a mini-beasts trail, eat toffee apples and carve pumpkins. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Hampton Court Palace
You drive. We guide!
To book this unforgettable experience, speak to your concierge
Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the River Thames. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see the grand Henry’s State Apartments including the Great Hall To 29 Oct: The Magic Garden. Children’s play area with sections representing myths, legends, stories and real objects. To 28 Oct Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm; from 29 Oct daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £20.90; child £10.45. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
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Leeds Castle This fairytale 900-year-old castle was a Norman stronghold, a Jacobean country house and a Georgian mansion, among other things. It has a moat, gardens and parkland, where you can lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze. Grounds & garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-3pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle. com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
Osterley Park and House Explore this country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s. House 11am-5pm; Garden 10am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
Magna Carta Jane Austen’s notebook The Beatles’ lyrics Just some of the treasures you can see at the British Library Free, open daily
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments with ornate plasterwork ceilings and the majestic Throne Room. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
Stonehenge The famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old and has obscure Neolithic origins. To 15 Oct daily 9am-7pm; from 16 Oct daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £16.50; child £9.90. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
www.bl.uk
Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. To 29 Oct: Riches of the Earth. A trail around the house highlights riches such as earthenware and porcelain clays. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Please check for times. Castle adult £28; child £25; castle & dungeon adult £33; child £30. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.
LOSE YOURSELF IN THE
CROWN JEWELS
Treasures that united the kingdom
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An arts and crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings. Watts Gallery was first opened in 1904, built to exhibit the works of G F Watts – there are more than 100 of his works on display. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tues £4.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle This is the Queen’s weekend home. Don’t miss the State Apartments furnished with art from the Royal Collection including paintings by Rembrandt and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Nearest tube Tower Hill
Book online today to save
Royal Collection Trust © 2017, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Bear Hug by Ashleigh Scully; The Power of the Matriarch by David Lloyd; The Insiders by Qing Lin; Bold Eagle by Klaus Nigge
Animal magic From a seahorse struggling for survival to a bald eagle’s hypnotic stare, nature has been captured in all its heart-stopping glory, writes Emma Levine Come face-to-face with animals great and small, from a minuscule seahorse to playful seals and a wizened, wise-looking elephant, at the annual Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition (from 20 Oct). This famous exhibition, considered to be the ‘oscars’ of the wildlife photography calendar, has been a firm favourite at the Natural History Museum for more than half a century. A judging panel, comprising respected wildlife experts and nature photographers, selects the winning images, which are submitted by those in the field of nature photography. This year there were almost 50,000 entries, both professional and amateur, from 92 countries. It marks a huge growth in interest since the competition began in 1965, which attracted just 600 submissions. on display this year are the 100 shortlisted photos displaying the planet’s diversity of beasts – and occasional plantlife, such as Jack dykinga’s photograph of the underbelly of a giant saguaro cactus in Arizona. They range from Klaus nigge’s photo of a stark, close-up stare from a beaky bald eagle; a majestic Arctic fox
THE PHOTOgrAPHErs’ gALLErY The largest gallery in London devoted to photography has temporary contemporary exhibitions spread over its five floors. Gregory Crewdson: Cathedral of the Pines (to 8 oct; above) is currently on display, and is the American artist’s first UK exhibition. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk
padding through the snow, carrying a snow goose egg (these foxes steal up to 40 eggs a day to store for their young) by Sergey Gorshkov; and Ashleigh Scully’s depiction of a brown bear getting a hug from her tiny cub. While some images would make you melt, others provoke strong feelings about the fragility of our world. Take, for example, Justin Hofman’s underwater shot, entitled Sewage Surfer, of a seahorse with its tiny tail wrapped around (and dwarfed by) a cotton bud – an image not of animal pitched against animal in the wild for survival, but of the destruction of the planet at the hands of humans. For full listing, turn to p. 40
BEETLEs+HuxLEY Chris Beetles and Giles Huxley-Parlour founded this Mayfair art gallery in 2010, focusing on fine art photography. The gallery has presented exhibitions by Cecil Beaton and Henri Cartier-Bresson, as well as contemporary photographers. Look out for Alec Soth’s Sleeping by the Mississippi (to 21 oct). www.beetlesandhuxley.com
MiCHAEL HOPPEN gALLErY Visit this Chelsea gallery, which is presenting Jim naughten’s Mountains of Kong (to 21 oct) – whimsical works based on a Victorian-era land (later discovered to be fictitious) using wildlife photos superimposed on to incompatible scenic shots. www.michaelhoppengallery.com
bEar HUG © asHlEIGH scUlly; THE powEr of THE maTrIarcH © DavID lloyD; THE InsIDErs © qInG lIn; bolD EaGlE © klaUs nIGGE; GrEGory crEwDson’s moTHEr anD DaUGHTEr, 2014 © GrEGory crEwDson coUrTEsy of GaGosIan GallEry
Capturing the moment
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bear hug © ashleigh scully; the power of the matriarch © david lloyd; the insiders © qing lin; bold eagle © klaus nigge; gregory crewdson’s mother and daughter, 2014 © gregory crewdson courtesy of gagosian gallery
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel. self-guided tours mon-sat 9.30am-6pm; sun 10am-4pm; legends tour from 11am (check for dates). museum open mon-sat 10.30am-6.30pm; sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for closures. self-guided: adult £20, child £10. legend: adult from £40, child from £20.75. museum only: adult £10, child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours. emirates stadium, hornsey rd, n5 1bu. t: 020-7619 5000. Off map. station: arsenal.
Bank of England Museum the story of the bank of england from 1694 to today. To 31 Oct: Stories from the City: The Bank of England Through Literature. celebrating the launch of the new Jane austen £10 note. mon-fri 10am-5pm. admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. threadneedle st, ec2r 8ah. t: 020-7601 5545. D10. station: bank.
Benjamin Franklin House charming 18th-century townhouse, the last remaining home of the american diplomat, inventor, founding father and musician, with tours by costumed actors. 24 Oct: Hallowe’en. family events including mummy bowling. architectural tours mon; historical shows wed-sun (please check for times). shows: adult £8; under 16s free. mon tours: adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 craven st, wc2n 5nf. t: 020-7925 1405. E8. station: charing cross.
The British Museum
Churchill War Rooms
unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus regular talks, evening events and performances. To 15 Oct: Desire, Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories. depicting gay culture and history. To 14 Jan: Scythians: Warriors of Ancient Siberia. exhibition about the nomadic tribe, including mummified horses, gold and weapons. sat-thur 10am-5.30pm; fri 10am-8.30pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.british museum. org. great russell st, wc1b 3dg. t: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. station: tottenham court road/russell square.
fortified secret bunker where the prime minister, sir winston churchill, worked during world war ii. discover his life in the cabinet war rooms. daily 9.30am-6pm. adult £17.25; child £8.60. www.iwm.org.uk. clive steps, king charles st, sw1a 2aq. t: 020-7930 6961. F7. station: westminster.
The Cartoon Museum exhibits of british cartoons, caricature and comic art. tue-sun 10.30am-5.30pm. adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 little russell st, wc1a 2hh. t: 020-7580 8155. D8. station: holborn.
Clink Prison Museum former prison dating back to 1144, with hands-on exhibits that reveal london’s penal past. it’s said to be haunted by former inmates; check for haunted happenings events. daily 10am-9pm. adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 clink st, se1 9dg. t: 020-7403 0900. E10. station: london bridge.
Design Museum
former home of victorian novelist dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. tue-sun 10am-5pm. adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 doughty st, wc1n 2lX. t: 020-7405 2127. C8. station: russell square.
leading museum of design and architecture. permanent display Designer Maker User. To 17 Oct: California: Designing Freedom. from 1960s counterculture to silicon valley’s tech world. daily 10am-6pm (last entry 5pm). fri 6 oct 10am-8pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 kensington high st, w8 6ag. t: 020-3862 5900. Off map. station: high street kensington.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours
Florence Nightingale Museum
Charles Dickens Museum
interactive tour of the current premier league champions, including the dressing rooms, player’s tunnel, press room and museum with trophies. please check for times, dates of monthly players tours, and prices. www.chelseafc.com/tours. stamford bridge, sw6 1hs. t: 0871-984 1955. Off map. station: fulham broadway.
located in st thomas’ hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century british nurse and health reformer, known as ‘the lady with the lamp’. free tours. daily 10am-5pm. adult £7.50; child (five-15) £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 lambeth palace rd, se1 7ew. t: 020-7620 0374. F8. station: waterloo/westminster. www.wheretraveler.com 37
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Geffrye
Leighton House Museum
formerly the Geffrye museum. historic, restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating english interiors from 1600 to the present day. almshouse tours look at the lives of london’s poor and elderly in former times. check for dates and times. tour adult £4; under 16s free. tue-sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. admission free, charges for tours and special exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland rd, e2 8ea. t: 020-7739 9893. Off map. station: hoxton.
the restored former home of frederic, lord leighton is a museum of his life and artistic works. To 29 Oct: Alma-Tadema: At Home in Antiquity. works by the victorian-era dutch painter, a personal friend of leighton. wed-mon 10am-5.30pm. adult £14; child (12-17) £12. www. rbkc.gov.uk. 12 holland park, w14 8lZ. t: 020-7602 3316. Off map. station: Kensington olympia.
The Guards Museum learn about the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the foot Guards – the Grenadier, coldstream, scots, irish and welsh Guards – which today watch over the royal palaces. daily 10am-4pm. adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. wellington barracks, birdcage walk, sw1e 6hQ. t: 020-7414 3271. D5. station: st James’s park/westminster.
Horniman Museum & Gardens collection based upon the adventuring victorian tea trader, frederick John horniman, including an aquarium and musical instruments. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. amazing animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their inner workings. daily 10am-5.30pm. admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 london rd, se23 3pQ. t: 020-8699 1872. Off map. station: forest hill.
House of Illustration the uK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by sir Quentin blake. To 21 Jan: Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen. celebrating the little-known production designs by the famous political cartoonist. adult £7.50; child £4. tue-sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary square, n1c 4bh. t: 020-3696 2020. Off map. station: King’s cross st pancras.
London Film Museum Bond in Motion exhibits James bond vehicles that feature in the film series. sun-fri 10am-6pm; sat 10am-7pm. adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 wellington st, wc2e 7bn. t: 020-7202 7042. E8. station: covent Garden.
London Transport Museum located in the Grade ii-listed flower market, explore the story of london’s transport, including red buses, the world’s first underground steam train and a 19th century padded cell carriage. From 13 Oct: Poster Girls – A Century of Art and Design. london transport art by women. daily 10am-6pm; fri 11am-6pm. adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. covent Garden piazza, wc2e 7bb. t: 020-7379 6344. E8. station: covent Garden.
Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising more than 12,000 items from iconic brands reveal how lives have changed over the past 200 years. tue-sat 10am-6pm; sun 11am-5pm. adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 lancaster rd, w11 1Qt. t: 020-7243 9611. Off map. station: ladbroke Grove.
Museum of London the world’s largest urban history museum has nine galleries, including roman and medieval london, with numerous exhibits that transport you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day The City Is Ours looks at the challenges of urban living. check for regular family events. daily 10am-6pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 london wall, ec2y 5hn. t: 020-7001 9844. D10. station: barbican.
Museum of London Docklands the intriguing history of the meandering river thames, from its time as a roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the docklands. see displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. daily 10am-6pm. admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. t: 020-7001 9844. Off map. station: canary wharf/ west india Quay.
National Maritime Museum the world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the nelson, navy, nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero, plus the Great map – a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. To 7 Jan: Death in the Ice. explore the mystery of sir John franklin, whose ships were lost at sea while on an arctic expedition in 1845. check for regular family events. daily 10am-5pm. admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. romney rd, se10 9nf. t: 020-8858 4422. Off map. station: Greenwich/cutty sark.
Top Pick
Go behind the scenes of ceremonial duties and roles of the household cavalry regiments. troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. changing the Queen’s life Guard on horse Guards parade mon-sat 11am, sun 10am. daily 10am-6pm. please check for occasional closures. adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. horse Guards, whitehall, sw1a 2aX. t: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. station: westminster/embankment.
Imperial War Museum displays relating to global conflicts, particularly those involving britain. see the holocaust exhibition and art in the first world war Galleries. From 26 Oct: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. works by more than 40 global artists. To 26 Nov: Afghanistan: Reflections on Helmand. examining the british troops’ arrival in helmand and the subsequent conflict. daily 10am-6pm. admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. lambeth rd, se1 6hZ. t: 0207416 5000. E5. station: lambeth north/waterloo.
Jewish Museum documenting Jewish history and culture in the uK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the east end immigrant q uarter. From 19 Oct: Designs on Britain. the influence of Jewish immigrant artists on 20th-century designs. daily 10am-5pm; fri 10am-2pm. adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. raymond burton house, 129-131 albert st, nw1 7nb. t: 020-7284 7384. Off map. station: camden town.
Ain’t nothing but surreal things The 20th-century artists Marcel Duchamp and Salvador Dalí are famous for their largerthan-life personalities. The two, however, had hugely contrasting styles, from Duchamp’s iconic Fountain (a men’s urinal) to Dalí’s surrealist ‘melting clocks’ in The Persistence of Memory. Different though they were, the men shared a career-long friendship and mutual admiration. The new exhibition Dalí / Duchamp at the Royal Academy of Arts (from 7 Oct; p. 43) shines a light on this relationship which saw two creative souls bonded by shared artistic interests, from eroticism to optics, and bags of humour. The 80 pieces on show include some of their lesser-known works, and correspondence between them which brings a new perspective to these inventive, irreverent artists.
lobster telephone by salvador dalÍ courtesy of royal academy of arts, photo by edward James foundation
Household Cavalry Museum
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Don’t be a tourist Be an explorer Take a leap through time and space on the world-famous Meridian Line at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich.
Royal Observatory | Cutty Sark | National Maritime Museum | The Queen’s House
Only 20 minutes from central London Cutty Sark (Zone 2)
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Natural History Museum astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the images of nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons. From 20 Oct: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet, with photographs from the finalists (p. 36). To 28 Feb: Whales: Beneath the Surface. exhibition exploring the lives of whales, dolphins and porpoises, with skeletons and flippers. it’s celebrating the arrival of Hope, the huge blue whale skeleton in Hintze Hall. Daily 10am-5.50pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell rd, Sw7 5BD. t: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South kensington.
The Postal Museum this museum tells the story of the first ‘social network’, with exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. take a ride on the Mail rail, the train in the underground tunnels that have been unearthed after 75 years. Daily 10am-5pm. Mail rail & exhibitions: adult £14.50; child £7.25. eXhibitions only: adult £10; child free. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, wC1X 0Da. C8. Station: russell Square.
architectural drawings (view by appointment) and antiquities, plus Hogarth artworks. Check for tours. wed-Sun 10am-5pm. admission free. www.soane.org. 13 lincoln’s inn fields, wC2a 3BP. t: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House this neo-classical 18th-century building on the thames houses the famous Courtauld gallery, embankment galleries, cafés and restaurants. From 5 Oct: Hassan Hajjaj: La Caravane. Varied works by the British-Moroccan artist, including photographs and installations. galleries daily 10am-6pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, wC2r 1la. t: 020-7845 4600. E8. temple.
Twinings Museum the flagship store of twinings since 1706 has a tiny exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original royal warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-6pm. admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, wC2r 1aP. t: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: temple.
V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 25 Feb: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories. the life and works of one of Britain’s best-loved writers, displaying his manuscripts, photographs, and a lifesize puppet of Joey from the stage musical War Horse. Daily 10am-5.45pm. admission free. www.vam.ac. uk/moc. Cambridge Heath rd, e2 9Pa. t: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal green.
Victoria and Albert Museum the V&a’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years, and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world. To 25 Feb: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics. exploring the vivid culture of opera over 400 years, featuring seven contrasting performances. To 18 Feb: Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. exhibition about the revered designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his unique vision of female beauty and use of textiles. Daily 10am-5.45pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell rd, Sw7 2rl. t: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South kensington.
Queen’s House this 17th-century house by inigo Jones is an architectural masterpiece with 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by gainsborough and Hogarth. Don’t miss the spiral tulip Stairs, said to be haunted, and ornately painted ceilings. Daily 10am-5pm. admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/ queens-house. Queen’s House, romney rd, Se10 9nf. t: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. national aviation museum focusing on the royal air force. there are more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the f-35 fighter jet, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-6pm. admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. grahame Park way, nw9 5ll. t: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum a huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, including a red arrows simulator, and an iMaX theatre showing 3D science films. Permanent galleries include Making the Modern world, with Stevenson’s rocket and the apollo 10 command module. From 4 Oct: Illuminating India. two striking exhibitions (p. 42). To 15 Jan: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Commemorating the human impact of world war i. Daily 10am-6pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. exhibition rd, Sw7 2DD. t: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South kensington.
Sherlock Holmes Museum famous address dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with his friend and colleague Dr watson from 1881 to 1904, which this year celebrates 125 years. the Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in Sir arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, nw1 6Xe. t: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.
Sir John Soane’s Museum this 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837. it houses his collection from around the world, including his own
Making an impression Rarely seen works by the influential 19th-century painter, Paul Cézanne, are on show at the National Portrait Gallery in Cézanne’s Portraits (from 26 Oct; p. 42). This major exhibition is the first to be wholly devoted to his portraits, bringing together more than 50 works from private collections around the world – amassed from some 200 that he painted throughout his career. Particularly interesting works by the post-Impressionist pioneer include his arresting Self Portrait in a Bowler Hat (above), and The Boy in the Red Waistcoat – neither of which has ever been exhibited before in the UK. Look out also for the portraits of his maternal uncle Dominique Aubert, a local bailiff, in striking oils.
Self Portrait in a Bowler Hat, 1885-86, By Paul Cézanne © ny CarlSBerg glyPtotek, CoPenHagen, PHoto By ole HauPt
Royal Air Force Museum
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Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?
Fall in love with Wimbledon
Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.
Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by
T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum
SELF PORTRAIT IN A BOWLER HAT, 1885-86, BY PAUL CÉZANNE © NY CARLSBERG GLYPTOTEK, COPENHAGEN, PHOTO BY OLE HAUPT
New Virtual Reality experience
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Wallace Collection
The Courtauld Gallery
Guildhall Art Gallery
the former wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. To 7 Jan: El Greco to Goya – Spanish Masterpieces from the Bowes Museum. an exhibition of 300 years of paintings, including el greco’s The Tears of Saint Peter, from the durham museum. free tours on selected dates. daily 10am5pm. admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, manchester square, w1U 3bn. t: 020-7563 9500. D6. station: bond street.
important european art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in beautiful somerset House. From 19 Oct: Soutine’s Portraits: Cooks, Waiters and Bellboys. Paintings by 20th-century artist Chaim soutine. daily 10am-6pm. adult £7; child free. www. courtauld.ac.uk. somerset House, strand, wC2R 0Rn. t: 020-7848 2526. E8. station: embankment.
Paintings collected by the City of london since the 17th century, including historic events and royalty. it also houses the Roman amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). mon-sat 10am-5pm; sun noon-4pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityof london.gov.uk. guildhall yard, off gresham st, eC2V 5ae. t: 020-7332 3700. D10. station: st Paul’s/bank.
england’s first public art gallery, designed by sir John soane and founded in 1811, holds a magnificent collection of old masters. To 8 Oct: Sargent: Wellcome Collection The Watercolours. beautiful scenes wellcome trust’s public venue of europe by John singer sargent. houses hundreds of fascinating To 8 Oct: Pavilion The Museum of London artefacts relating to health and Lates. evening events held in originally opened in the body. the permanent a temporary structure on the 1912 in Kensington exhibitions Medicine Now and lawns. tue-fri 10am-5pm, satPalace, near Medicine Man showcase the personal sun 11am-5pm. adult £7; child Hyde Park collection of sir Henry wellcome with free; charges for special exhibitions. eye-popping antique items of medical www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk. equipment. Regular talks and tours. gallery Rd, se21 7ad. t: 020-8693 5254. To 8 Oct: A Museum of Modern Nature. Off map. station: west dulwich/north dulwich. objects borrowed from members of the public to depict their individual relationships with nature. Estorick Collection To 14 Jan: Can Graphic Design Save Your Life? exploring Charming bijou gallery in a grade ii-listed the relationship between design and the healthcare georgian building, specialising in modern italian industry, including the history of campaigns and art. To 17 Dec: Poor Art: Arte Povera – Italian Influences, digital teaching aids. tue-wed & fri-sat 10am-6pm; British Responses. Profiling the artists who favoured thur 10am-10pm; sun 11am-6pm. admission free. using unconventional, humble materials. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 euston Rd, wed-sat 11am-6pm; sun noon-5pm. adult £6.50; nw1 2be. t: 020-7611 2222. C7. station: euston. child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours Canonbury square, n1 2an. t: 020-7704 9522. Off map. station: Highbury & islington. at the venue of the famous Championships, the
The National Gallery one of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by western european masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular tours, talks and workshops. To 8 Oct: Giovanni da Rimini. a 14th-century masterpiece is displayed with other late-byzantine pieces. To 7 May: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Paintings and drawings by the french impressionist. sat-thur 10am-6pm; fri 10am9pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. trafalgar square, wC2n 5dn. t: 020-7747 2885. E7. station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery Prominent gallery, more than 150 years old, with depictions of famous british people. To 22 Oct: The Encounter: Drawings from Leonardo to Rembrandt. exploring the creative relationship between the artists and their sitters. From 26 Oct: Cézanne’s Portraits. more than 50 works, some of which have never previously been displayed in the UK (p. 40). sat-wed 10am-6pm; thur & fri 10am-9pm (regular evening events). admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. st martin’s Place, wC2H 0He. t: 020-7312 2463. E7. station: leicester square.
displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from current champions, plus touchscreens to watch past greats in action. look out for the ‘ghost’ of John mcenroe, and the virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by tim Henman. To 4 Mar 2018: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. exhibition to celebrate bbC’s radio and tV live broadcasting of the Championships for 90 years, with old tV cameras, posters and programmes. tours of the grounds include Centre Court. daily 10am-5.30pm. museum adult £13; child £8. museum & tour adult £25; child £15. one free child with every full-price adult. www.wimbledon. com/museum. all england lawn tennis Club, Church Rd, sw19 5ae. t: 020-8946 6131. Off map. station: southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
galleRies Barbican Art Gallery multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the art gallery and the Curve. To 28 Jan: Basquiat: Boom for Real. the UK’s first major exhibition of Jean-michel basquiat, a self-taught, new york street artist who died in 1988 aged 28. Check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. barbican Centre, silk st, eC2y 8ds. t: 020-7638 4141. D10. station: barbican.
Ben Uri Gallery the london Jewish museum of art houses more than 1,300 works by approximately 400 artists of european Jewish descent, including frank auerbach and david bomberg. Please check for exhibitions, regular talks and events. mon-fri 10am-5.30pm, sat & sun 11am-5pm. admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a boundary Rd, off abbey Rd, nw8 0RH. t: 020-7604 3991. Off map. station: Kilburn High Road.
Eastern promises From archival photography to prehistoric weighing scales, Illuminating India at the Science Museum comprises two striking exhibitions to mark 70 years of India’s independence (from 4 Oct; p. 40). 5000 Years of Science and Innovation looks at the role of the country’s scientists, technology experts and thinkers over the centuries, up to India’s modern-day space programme. The second exhibition, Photography 1857-2017, focuses on the history of photography, from its early years when British colonial military officers used it as a tool for documenting and dominating local people, to the royal images by pioneering photographer Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II.
Rama Combing His HaiR, ayodHya, UttaR PRadesH, india, 2015, fRom tHe seRies a mytH of two soUls © VasantHa yoganantHan
Dulwich Picture Gallery
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Newport Street Gallery
Royal Academy of Arts
Tate Britain
damien Hirst’s gallery exhibits his art collection. From 4 Oct: Dan Colen – Sweet Liberty. works by the contemporary american artist, spanning 15 years, including large-scale installations. tue-sun 10am-6pm. sat 10am-10pm. admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. newport st, se11 6aJ. t: 020-3141 9320. G8. station: Vauxhall/ lambeth north.
eighteenth-century building with works in all media. From 7 Oct: Dalí / Duchamp. a look at the surrealists (p. 38). To 12 Nov: Matisse in the Studio. a rare insight into the artist’s personal collection from around the world. To 10 Dec: Jasper Johns: ‘Something Resembling Truth’. works by the prominent Us artist. daily 10am-6pm; fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 burlington gardens, Piccadilly, w1J 0bd. t: 0207300 8000. E7. station: Piccadilly Circus/green Park.
leading collection of british art, including the world’s largest collection of works by turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British Art 1861-1967. marking the 50th anniversary of the partial decriminalisation of male homosexuality in england. To 21 Jan: Rachel Whiteread. Vast sculptural works in materials including concrete and rubber, by the prominent british artist who was the first woman to win the turner Prize, in 1993. daily 10am-6pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. millbank, sw1P 4Rg. t: 020-7887 8888. G8. station: Pimlico.
The Photographers’ Gallery london’s largest gallery devoted to photography. From 20 Oct: Instant Stories – Wim Wenders’ Polaroids. Rare look into the work of the oscarnominated filmmaker and his process. mon-sat 10am-6pm; thur 10am-8pm; sun 11am-6pm. admission free before noon, then £4. www.the photographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies st, w1f 7lw. t: 020-7087 9300. D7. station: oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery
Tate Modern
well-established arts space in Kensington gardens displays modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 8 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. this year’s pavilion was designed by francis Kéré, from burkino faso. To 4 Feb: Wade Guyton: Das New Yorker Atelier, Abridged. the american artist uses digital technology to create large-scale works. tue-sun 10am-6pm. admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington gardens, w2 3Xa. t: 020-7402 6075. E4. station: south Kensington.
world-class collection of international modern art in the transformed bankside Power station. To 22 Oct: Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power. a collection of powerful works by black american artists during the dramatic period of the Civil Rights movement. sun-thur 10am-6pm; fri & sat 10am-10pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. bankside, se1 9tg. t: 020-7887 8888. E9. station: southwark.
Serpentine Sackler Gallery
Whitechapel Gallery
arts space near the serpentine gallery, formerly a gunpowder store, with a contemporary wing by Zaha Hadid. To 19 Nov: Torbjørn Rødland: The Touch That Made You. Powerful portraits by the la-based photographer. tue-sun 10am-6pm. admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. west Carriage drive, Kensington gardens, w2 2aR. t: 020-7402 6075. E4. station: south Kensington.
influential east end gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art. To 21 Jan: Thomas Ruff. the german photographer’s works comprise themes such as cosmology, utopianism and catastrophe. tue-sun 11am-6pm; thur 11am-9pm. admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.white chapel.org. 77-82 whitechapel High st, e1 7QX. t: 020-7522 7888. Off map. station: aldgate east.
Rama Combing His HaiR, ayodHya, UttaR PRadesH, india, 2015, fRom tHe seRies a mytH of two soUls © VasantHa yoganantHan
this smart gallery adjoining buckingham Palace has outstanding temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. To 12 Nov: Canaletto & the Art of Venice. a fascinating and powerful selection of large-scale paintings, plus delicate pen-and-ink drawings and etchings depicting 18th-century Venice, alongside Canaletto’s greatest works and those of some of his contemporaries. daily 10am-5.30pm. adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. buckingham Palace, sw1a 1aa. t: 0303-123 7301. F7. station: green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Serpentine Gallery
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
What lies beneath From the psychedelic 1960s to a zombie party, this month you can escape reality at The Vaults, a network of tunnels beneath Waterloo that hosts immersive events. First to take to the stage is Hair the Musical (from 4 Oct; p. 46) – set in 1967 in New York, it follows Claude (Robert Metson), a hippy who must decide whether to join his pacifist friends or conform to his conservative parents’ wishes and fight in Vietnam. The rock musical is celebrating its 50th anniversary. Director Jonathan O’Boyle says: ‘This iconic musical is as relevant today as it was during the Summer of Love. With themes including war, ethnic diversity and equality, LGBTQ rights and women’s rights, and set against the backdrop of the hippy movement in the late 1960s, it is as universal and timeless as ever.’ The show has been updated, says O’Boyle: ‘Featuring a fantastic cast of just 14, our reimagined version of the show strips the musical right back to its roots – and that is mainly its unforgettable score. Our version has a never-before-heard song that was written
for the original off-Broadway production which has been cut from the show ever since.’ As well as 60s-themed food and drinks, stalls recreate the era with smiley badges, floral headdresses, vinyl records, hippie wigs and tie-dyed clothes. The show itself is as psychedelic as the set, with youthful songs and an infamous nude scene. From big hair to hair-raising, designers Darling & Edge encourage you to go in spooky fancy dress for Beauty and the Feast (from 6 Oct; p. 46), an over-16s show that warns you’ll ‘come as a beauty, and leave as a beast.’
The show is mostly seated and unfolds through a linear plot – but expect lots of twists and turns. Set 100 years after the Beast was born, it follows the residents of a castle as they claw at the walls waiting for Beauty to break the spell. Meanwhile, they’ve prepared a feast that includes specially created canapés, such as spicy roasted pumpkins, magical mushroom meringues, ginger jelly and blue cheese cheesecakes. If that whets your appetite, then The Vaults’ Halloween Raveyard (27-28 Oct) is bound to kill it. Inspired by the venue’s past as a temporary morgue, visitors can attend their own funeral and dance with zombies in a room with the dead dangling from the walls. As well as a devilish line-up of DJs playing rock and dance music, there will be a stage for bloodcurdling performances and roving acts. Visitors can explore the venue’s eerie tunnels and a cabaret room, which features fire shows, acrobats and singers around a bar from 8pm to 2am. Arch 236, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. www.thevaults.london
HAIR THE MUSICAL © ANTHONY ROBLING; THE VAULTS COURTESY OF THE VAULTS
Delve into the tunnels beneath Waterloo and you’ll find yourself propelled into an alternative world filled with a world-famous musical, a scary feast and rocking DJs, says Sarah Riches
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‘A GLITTERING TOUR DE FORCE OF DISCO AND SOUL’ DAILY EXPRESS
TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY
DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £25 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE
SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Sun 6pm; Sat-Sun 1pm. Tickets £65-£87. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.
42nd Street Peggy is stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show, but has a shot at stardom when the leading lady Dorothy (Sheena Easton) is injured. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Girl from the North Country
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£125. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
An American in Paris An American World War II veteran falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. But will she marry him, or his friend? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; 1-3 Oct Wed & Sat 2pm; from 4 Oct Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.anamericaninparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Annie Revival of the popular story set in the Great Depression of the 1930s about Annie, a girl in an orphanage who gets a chance to spend Christmas with a millionaire. But evil manager Hannigan (Craig Revel Horwood) has other ideas. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Beauty and the Feast From 6 Oct: Go in spooky fancy dress for this show, which has lots of twists and turns (p. 44). www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Bitched From 25 Oct: Ali is a new mum, loving wife
and successful stylist, but faces problems with her husband, Rob. Please check for times. Tickets £14. www.tristanbatestheatre.co.uk. Tristan Bates Theatre, 1A Tower St, WC2H 9NP. T: 020-3841 6611. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £34.75-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White, in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Evita The story of Eva, the wife of former Argentine dictator Juan Perón, from humble beginnings to national prominence. Songs include Don’t Cry for Me Argentina.. Check for times and prices. www.phoenixtheatrelondon. co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Hair the Musical From 4 Oct: Set in 1967 in New York, hippy Claude must decide whether to join his pacifist friends or fight in Vietnam (p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Kinky Boots A shoe factory reinvigorates its business when the new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.70-£167.50. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £18-£117. www.mammamia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Make sure you catch Disney’s award-winning musical The Lion King
BALLETBOYZ COURTESY OF SADLER’S WELLS; THE LION KING © DISNEY
Men at work An all-male ballet troupe of 10 dancers has created four new works, each one devised in a fortnight. The challenge – dubbed 14 Days – was undertaken by BalletBoyz and is performed at Sadler’s Wells (10-14 Oct; p. 52). Four choreographers – Javier de Frutos, Craig Revel Horwood, Iván Pérez and Christopher Wheeldon – have teamed up with four composers to create the quartet of works inspired by balance and imbalance. The second half of the evening showcases BalletBoyz’ Fallen, set to music by French film composer Armand Amar – but it’s 14 Days that will catch you off balance.
To 7 Oct: A community living on a knife-edge huddle together in the local guesthouse. This show is brought to life by a songbook of Bob Dylan tunes. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12-£150. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Award-winning show from the Royal Shakespeare Company, based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book, about a girl with magic powers who incurs the wrath of her headmistress. Check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical Feel-good musical with well-known hits, based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of top stars including Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder and Marvin Gaye. Please check for times and prices. www.motownthemusical.co.uk. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
The Phantom of the Opera
Young Frankenstein
A Day by the Sea
The legendary Mel Brooks brings his classic monster musical comedy on stage, which is a parody of Hollywood horror films. Please check for times and prices. www.youngfrankenstein.co.uk. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
4-28 Oct: In May, 1953, a work-obsessed diplomat
PLAYS
The Ferryman
Albion From 10 Oct: In the ruins of a garden in rural England, in a house which was once a home, one woman searches for seeds of hope. Mike Bartlett’s new play is directed by Rupert Goold. Mon-Sat 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£39.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
Apologia In this long-running Gothic drama, Stockard Channing (Rizzo from the a mysterious masked man haunts The Phantom of the hit film Grease) plays Kristin, an art the Paris Opera House, obsessed Opera’s make-up takes historian and former activist whose with the young soloist Christine two hours to apply life comes under scrutiny at a family and 30 minutes and determined to possess her. gathering. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur to remove Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. and Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £35-£95. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.the www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Station: Charing Cross. School of Rock: The Musical
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical is about an out-of-work rock musician who gets a job in a school, and attempts to form a band of fifth-grade kids. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Tennessee Williams’ 1955 play, about a family gathering in Mississippi which is simmering with secrets. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£67. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Stomp
The Comedy About a Bank Robbery
An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion, using a vast array of objects, from kitchen items and plastic bags to dustbins and Zippo lighters. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Wed. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Terrible Infants To 28 Oct: In this award-winning show, five interconnected short stories are intertwined with creepy puppets, songs, mime and rhyme in this historic music venue. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£25. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley, E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career, with all the hit songs including Don’t Blame It on the Boogie, Billie Jean and Beat It. Please check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Wicked This dazzling musical tells the back story of the witches of Oz, centred on the unlikely friendship between Glinda and Elpheba, and includes the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular (p. 50). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
based in Paris makes a rare visit to his mother at their beautiful family home in Dorset, and is disturbed to find a childhood friend also visiting. Check for times. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwark playhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
To 7 Oct: Sienna Miller stars in
A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a priceless diamond which has been entrusted to the local bank, but no-one can be trusted. From the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue, Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £11.25£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Child’s play Olivier-nominated show The Lorax is making a comeback at The Old Vic theatre (from 15 Oct; p. 53), following a previous stint in 2015. Just like Dr Seuss’ 1971 children’s story of the same name, the play has a strong environmental message. It follows The Lorax, a bright-orange woodland creature, who is driven from his home by the Once-ler, a green character intent on building factories and chopping down forests for financial gain until he finally sees the errors of his ways. Playwright David Greig – the brains behind Charlie and the Chocolate Factory – adapted the story.
Jez Butterworth’s play, directed by Sam Mendes, is set in Northern Ireland in 1981. It follows the Carney household as they prepare for a feast to celebrate the harvest – but a visitor interrupts proceedings. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £12-£94.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Leicester Square.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. Station: Charing Cross.
Heisenberg: The Uncertainty Principle From 3 Oct: The creative team from The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time is behind this UK premiere about two strangers who meet by chance amid the bustle of a London train station, which changes their lives forever. Mon-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£65. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Jane Eyre To 21 Oct: Reimagined version of the inspiring novel by Charlotte Brontë. The trailblazing heroine Jane fights for freedom and fulfilment on her own terms, facing life’s obstacles head-on. Mon-Sat 7pm; Tue and Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £29-£65. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Kids’ Pick
THE LORAX PUPPETEERS LAURA CUBITT, BEN THOMPSON AND SIMON LIPKIN © MANUEL HARLAN
Matilda the Musical
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ENTERTAINMENT Wings
Life and soul
Arthur Kopit’s powerful Broadway hit hasn’t been seen in London for 30 years. Now Juliet Stevenson plays Emily, a fiercely independent aviator and wing walker, but she suffers a stroke that destroys her sense of reality. Fragments of her life come together as she struggles to find her voice and herself. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 7, 11, 21 & 25 Oct). Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
BluesFest returns to The O2 (27-29 Oct; p. 52) for another three days of blues and soul. Since 2011, the festival has hosted some of the biggest names in blues. This year, the weekend kicks off with Chic featuring Nile Rodgers (right), along with their special guest Chaka Khan. Saturday sees the American duo Daryl Hall and John Oates take to the stage along with American Chris Isaak – best known for Wicked Games. Meanwhile, rock and blues band Gov’t Mule and guitarist Kenny Wayne Shepherd and band perform a more intimate gig at Indigo at The O2.
In this adaptation of Agatha Christie’s clever whodunnit, the audience is seated in a genuine courtroom staging, as if they are members of the jury. A gripping trial unfolds, where Leonard Vole is accused of murdering a wealthy widow. A unique piece of immersive theatre. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£65. www.witnesscountyhall.com. London County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Woman in Black An acclaimed spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s Gothic-style novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Now celebrating 28 years in the West End. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Much Ado About Nothing To 14 Oct: King Lear makes the
bold decision to divide his kingdom among his daughters, but fails to anticipate the consequences of his actions, in William Shakespeare’s classic drama. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Knives in Hens To 7 Oct: A ploughman and his
wife live a simple existence in a pre-industrial time until they are drawn into a struggle of knowledge, power and attraction. David Harrower’s haunting play established him as one of the UK’s leading contemporary playwrights. Please check for times and prices. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Knowledge Set against the backdrop of the harsh economic times of 1979, this follows the hilarious struggles of four Londoners as they attempt to better themselves by attempting the fearsome ‘Knowledge’ – the process of becoming a London black cab taxi driver. Standing between them and the coveted Green Badge is the eccentric Mr Burgess, the examiner. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£35. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s classic whodunnit mystery with a twist in the tale. This is the longest-running show in the world and at the end of each performance, the audience is asked not to give away the identity of the murderer to anyone. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm, Sat 4pm. Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
To 15 Oct: Shakespeare’s classic play is transported to Mexico in 1910, where Claudio and Benedick return home from the first wave of the revolution. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Oslo From 2 Oct: In 1993, the leaders of Israel and Palestine shook hands on the lawn of the White House. This tells the true story of two Norwegian diplomats who coordinated top-secret talks, leading to the Oslo Peace Accords. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£65. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur drama society staging a murder mystery, where everything that could go wrong, does. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm (also 26 Oct); Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£72. www.theplay thatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Venus in Fur From 6 Oct: Enigmatic actress Vanda Jordan appears unannounced for an audition with a well-known director, determined to land the leading role in his new production. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm; Tickets £15-£90. www. trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican Huge, multi-arts venue. 3 Oct: Academy of Ancient Music: Purcell’s King Arthur. 5 Oct: London Symphony Orchestra (Bychkov, Britten, Mahler). 8 Oct: Kaushiki Chakraborty. 9 Oct: Classic Opera 20th Birthday Concert. 15-19 Oct: London Symphony Orcestra (Brahms, Ades, Mendelssohn). 26 Oct: The Flautadors. 27 Oct: ECHO Rising Stars: Quator van Kuijk. Check for full listings, times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Cadogan Hall Attractive hall for classical events. 6 Oct: Basel Symphony Orchestra (Mozart, Beethoven). 7 Oct: London Concertante: Tango Vivaldi. 8-9 Oct: Mariinsky Orchestra (Rimsky-Korsakov). 15 Oct: South Pacific in Concert. 19 Oct: London Concert Choir. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall. 6 Oct: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra: Symphonic Queen Queen. 8 Oct: Grand Organ Gala. 14 Oct: National Brass Band Championships. 23 Oct: Disney Fantasia: Live in Concert. www. royal alberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.
Be spellbound by the musical Wicked, which is celebrating its 11th year (p. 48)
NILES RODGERS IMAGE COURTESY OF BLUESFEST; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED THE MUSICAL
King Lear
Witness for the Prosecution
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NILES RODGERS IMAGE COURTESY OF BLUESFEST; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED THE MUSICAL
SUSAN HILL’S
ADAPTED BY
STEPHEN MALLATRATT
FORTUNE THEATRE
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ENTERTAINMENT
4 Oct: independence gala (indian music). 5 Oct: Philharmonia Orchestra: Pictures at an Exhibition (Mussorgsky). 8 Oct: Philharmonia Orchestra (Smetana). 19 Oct: Philharmonia Orchestra: (Rimsky-korsakov). 27 Oct: London
Philharmonic Orchestra: Leningrad Symphony (Shostakovich). 28-29 Oct: Daniel Barenboim and West-eastern Divan Orchestra. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, Se1 8XX. t: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Piccadilly this 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St james’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1j 9LL. t: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club
Sadler’s Wells
London’s most famous jazz venue. 1-2 Oct: Stacey kent. 3-7 Oct: georgie Fame with the guy Barker Big Band. 9-10 Oct: Michel Legrand. 11-12 Oct: Cécile McLorin Salvant. 22 Oct: natalie Williams Soul Family. 30-31 Oct: joshua Redman. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4ht. t: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: tottenham Court Road.
4-7 Oct: Company Wayne Mcgregor. 10-14 Oct: BalletBoyz – 14 Days (p. 46). 16-17 Oct: Shobana
Royal Albert Hall 4 Oct: tori amos. 13 Oct: Marillion. 14 Oct: national Brass Band
Championships. 17 Oct: Busted. 26 Oct: the addams Family in Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Concert. 29 Oct: Symphonic Star opened in 1959 and has Wars. Please check for times and hosted icons from prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Ella Fitzgerald to kensington gore, SW7 2aP. t: 020-7589 Curtis Mayfield 8212. F4. Station: South kensington.
St Martin-in-the-Fields extensive programme of free lunchtime recitals and evening concerts, plus jazz nights. 5 Oct: Mozart and Puccini by Candlelight. 7 Oct: Vivaldi Concertos by Candlelight. 12 Oct: Bach Violin Concertos by Candlelight. 14 Oct: Mozart Requiem by Candlelight. 10 Oct: Bach, handel and Vivaldi by Candlelight. 27 Oct: allegri Miserere by Candlelight. Please check for full listings, times and prices. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, trafalgar Square, WC2n 4jj. t: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Wigmore Hall Famous concert hall for regular recitals. 2 Oct: Paul O’Dette (Byrd, Dowland, Bacheler). 3 Oct: northern Lights Symphony Orchestra (Sibelius, Britten, tchaikovsky). 10 Oct: Pavel haas Quartet (Stravinsky, Ravel, Dvorák). 11 Oct: the endellion String Quartet (haydn, Bartok, Beethoven). 14 Oct: Polish Music Day. 21 Oct: Philip higham (Bach). 24 Oct: the Sixteen (Monteverdi). 28 Oct: nash ensemble. Please check for times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. t: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.
COnCeRtS: POP, jazz & WORLD The Jazz Café this live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 5 Oct: harald grosskopf + eberhard kranemann present: krautwerk. 6 Oct: janet jackson’s the Velvet Rope – a 20th anniversary Replay. 7 Oct: havana Musica presents: a Celebration of Cuban Music. 9 Oct: the Sam jewison Orchestra presents: the great american Songbook. 10 Oct: a night of Stevie. 20 Oct: Orphy Robinson presents: a Spiritual jazz Reimagining of Van Morrison’s Astral Weeks. 30-31 Oct: Billy Cobham. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, nW1 7Pg. t: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden town.
The O2 enormous venue for live music. 9-11 Oct: Lady gaga. 10 Oct: Lady antebellum. 17-19 Oct: neil Diamond. 18 Oct: emeli Sandé. 22-24 Oct: Metallica. From 26 Oct: Little Mix. 27-29 Oct: BluesFest, acts include Chic featuring nile Rodgers (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. the O2, Peninsula Square, Se10 0aX. t: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: north greenwich.
DanCe The Peacock 4-7 Oct: Cirque eloize: Saloon. From 24 Oct: Vamos
Cuba! Please check for times. tickets from £15. www.sadlerswells.com. Portugal St, WC2a 2ht. t: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: holborn.
Royal Festival Hall 5-6 Oct: Akshayambara. a dance performance about male ownership. 7 Oct: Square Dancing
Workshop: how do you guangchang Wu? Learn Chinese dance routines. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, Se1 8XX. t: 020-7960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Royal Opera House the Royal Ballet Company’s home base. To 28 Oct: Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Christopher Wheeldon’s ballet has fallen down the rabbit hole. From 24 Oct: The Judas Tree/Song of the Earth. 26-27 Oct: Gloria/The Judas Tree/Elita Syncopations. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2e 9DD. t: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent garden.
jeyasingh Dance – Bayadere – The Ninth Life. 19-20 Oct: Lyon Opera Ballet: Trois Grandes Fugues. 27-28 Oct: jasmin Vardimon Company: Pinocchio. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells theatre, Rosebery ave, eC1R 4tn. t: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: angel.
FeStiVaLS & eVentS BluesFest 27-29 Oct: three days of blues and soul (p. 50).
the weekend kicks off with Chic featuring nile Rodgers, along with their special guest Chaka khan. Other highlights include Steely Dan and the Doobie Brothers (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. the O2, Peninsula Square, Se10 0aX. t: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: north greenwich.
Dance Umbrella 11-28 Oct: Celebrate international choreographers and dancers with boundary-pushing performances in venues across London (below). www.dance umbrella.co.uk.
The Luna Cinema Watch classic films and blockbusters such as Dreamgirls, Ghostbusters and the Rocky Horror Picture Show under the stars at iconic venues around London and the Uk, from the beautiful hampton Court Palace to Reigate. Please check for times and full listings. adult £15; child £10. www.thelunacinema.com. t: 0844-858 6767.
OPeRa London Coliseum home to the english national Opera; productions are sung in english. To 2 Dec: Aida (Verdi). 5-30 Oct: The Barber of Seville (Rossini). From 26 Oct: Rodelinda (handel). Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2n 4eS. t: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Dancing to a different tune If you happen to spot a circus aerialist performing in front of Battersea Power Station, on top of a moving 40ft shipping container, then you’ll be watching the opening to the Dance Umbrella (11-28 Oct), an international contemporary dance festival. Satchie Noro, who stars in the opening piece, says: ‘A container’s intimate space is like a Japanese tea house, it’s home to me. My father’s aikido master sent him by freight boat to teach the martial art in Europe 50 years ago. I retraced his journey [in reverse], which took 42 days in a boat carrying 10,000 containers.’ Known for its programme of world-class choreography and dance, the festival also comes to Peninsula Square in Greenwich, Artillery Square in Woolwich, Trinity Buoy Wharf, Silvertown Quays, the National Theatre and Queen’s Gardens in Croydon, all for the first time.
Let Me Change YOUR naMe © eUnji PaRk
Royal Festival Hall
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LET ME CHANGE YOUR NAME © EUNJI PARK
Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. To 10 Oct: La Bohème (Puccini). To 14 Oct: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). From 12 Oct: Les Vepres Siciliennes (Verdi).
Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES Blown Away From 30 Oct: Penguin Blue and friends go on an
acrobatic Antarctic adventure full of good ideas, homesickness and the perils of kites. Suitable for ages 3-7. Adult £12; child £10. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
Child of the Divide To 15 Oct: Summer 1947 and 16 million people are on the move between India and the newly-formed Pakistan. Amid the upheaval young Pali’s fingers slip from his father’s hand, and his destiny changes forever. Suitable for ages 7-14. Tickets £10-£13.50. Please check for times. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
Goblin’s Peter and the Wolf 23-26 Oct: Join Peter on his hilarious adventure, camping with his grandad, as they discover sights and sounds of birds and animals. It combines puppetry, physical comedy and even musical vegetables. Suitable for ages 3-7. Adult £12; child £10. Check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
Friends for All 20-22 Oct: Eight-year-old Lexi is inspired by her Grandad’s hippy stories from the swinging 60s, and decides to fight the powers that be in school, and the class bully. Suitable for ages 5-11. Check for times. Tickets £10-£13.50. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
Laika In 2057, Sami’s astronaut mum understands that there could be a better future out in space, so they face the prospect of letting go, saying goodbye and heading off into the unknown. A moving sci-fi adventure. Suitable for ages 6-12. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 0207645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Little Red Riding Hood 25-29 Oct: In this playful take on the fairytale, the Italian theatre company La Baracca retrace Red Riding Hood’s path in the shadowy woods. Suitable for ages 3-8. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£13.50. www.polka theatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
The Lorax From 15 Oct: This Olivier-nominated show (p. 48), based on Dr Seuss’ 1971 children’s book, follows The Lorax, a woodland creature, who is driven from his home by the Once-ler, intent on building factories and chopping down forests for financial gain. Please check for times and prices. www.old victheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
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shopping | THE GUIDE
Fabric of the city When it comes to Arthur Lasenby, the clothes certainly made the man. In 1875, Lasenby founded his own company with a £2,000 loan, a lease on half of a shop in Regent Street and an eye for fashion. By taking coloured silk fabrics from the Far East and selling them in his shop, he was able to repay the loan and acquire the second half of the shop, which is famously known as Liberty (p. 55). Few shops in London have quite as much character. When you enter this mock-Tudor building, it feels as if you are stepping back in time. The dark wooden beams, sloping ceilings and uneven stairs are all part of its charm. Today, the store sells everything from high-end fashion brands to luxurious stationery, but one of the most beautiful (and visited) areas is the haberdashery department. Located on the top floor, the department has undergone a major refurbishment. The area now covers even more space and includes 25 new brands, such as Studio Carta, VV Rouleaux and Cluny Lace. Whether you are running your hands across the different rolls of fabric, or gazing at the wall filled with different coloured wool, this feels like a walk-in wardrobe-meets-tailor’s studio. Bursting at the seams with accessories, there are pin cushions, tape measures and sewing boxes that have all been made to look as pretty as possible with a Liberty print. Looking to upgrade an outfit? There are ostrich and peacock feathers for hats, patches adorned with animals motifs and flower brooches. If you want to have a go at arts and crafts yourself, Liberty Sewing School offers cross stitching, embroidery and patchwork classes, as well as talks from artists. This autumn the store has launched the fabric collection Garden of Temptation. Inspired by food, from Renaissance fairytale banquets to forbidden fruits, this rich theme is exquisitely illustrated across the designs. There are playful fabrics, which are great for children, such as Sugar Rush with its motif of classic sweets, or the High Tea featuring sketches of cupcakes. For art lovers there is Earthly delights – inspired by Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s paintings of lush harvests, it has images of fruits and flowers. This is one store that definitely makes the cut.
all ImaGEs coUrTEsy of lIbErTy lonDon
Liberty’s haberdashery is a cut above the rest, says Kohinoor Sahota
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
major shopping areas Bond Street home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery as well as auction houses sotheby’s and bonhams. D6/E6/E7. station: bond street.
Canary Wharf a first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the docklands. Map inset. station: canary wharf.
Carnaby Street once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. station: oxford circus.
Covent Garden this former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. station: covent garden.
Gabriel’s Wharf a small but charming wharf that’s home to some interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to jewellers. you’ll also find a selection of restaurants including the oXo tower. E9. station: waterloo.
Hatton Garden this hidden historic corner of london is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. station: farringdon.
Jermyn Street & St James’s some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in london are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
King’s Road once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this famous street still attracts a stylish crowd. department store peter jones is good for homeware and duke of york square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. station: sloane square.
Oxford Street europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including selfridges and john lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. station: oxford circus/bond street/marble arch/ tottenham court road.
Regent Street originally designed by john nash, this prestigious area includes apple, liberty, swarovski, the first british ferrari shop and burberry. D6/D7/E7. station: oxford circus/piccadilly circus.
Savile Row best of britannia © tracey welch photography
all images courtesy of liberty london
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM
one of london’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket mayfair. find bespoke tailors including anderson & sheppard, gieves & hawkes, hardy amies and Kilgour. E7. station: green park.
Seven Dials in the heart of quirky covent garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. station: covent garden.
Made in Britain If you want to take home a souvenir that was made in Britain, then visit Best of Britannia (12-13 Oct). Now in its sixth year, the event showcases 150 brands, covering men’s and women’s clothing, cycling and motoring accessories. There are blankets by Romney Marsh Wools, London bus cushions by Charlie Pie Designs and scented candles by T London. ‘For a visitor to London, we hope that they would want to find out about products that are made here and meet the makers,’ says founder Joe Pidgeon. There are food stalls, too, selling everything from artisan chocolates to chilli oils, as well as a pop-up barber. The Boiler House, 152 Brick Lane, E1 6RU. www.bestofbritannia.com. Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street
major stores Fenwick designer names and regular events. mon-wed; fri & sat 10am-7pm; thur 10am-8pm; sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 new bond st, w1s 1rQ. t: 020-7629 9161. E6. station: bond street.
Fortnum & Mason british institution. mon-sat 10am-9pm; sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 piccadilly, w1a 1er. t: 0845-300 1707. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
Hamleys one of the world’s biggest toy shops. mon-fri 9am-10pm; sat 9.30am-9pm; sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 regent st, w1b 5bt. t: 0871-704 1977. D7. station: oxford circus.
Harrods edwardian food and meat halls, fashions plus bars and restaurants. mon-fri 10am-9pm; sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 brompton rd, sw1X 7Xl. t: 020-7730 1234. F5. station: Knightsbridge.
House of Fraser
Marks & Spencer reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around london). mon-sat 9am-9pm; sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 oxford st, w1c 1ap. t: 020-7935 7954. D6. station: marble arch.
Liberty the epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints (p. 56). mon-sat 10am-8pm; sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. great marlborough st, w1b 5ah. t: 020-7734 1234. D6. station: oxford circus.
Selfridges browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products (p. 60). mon-sat 9.30am-10pm; sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 oxford st, w1a 1ab. t: 0800-123 400. D6. station: bond street.
luXury arcades Burlington Arcade
fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. mon-fri 9.30am-10pm; sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 oxford st, w1c 1hf. t: 0844-800 3752. D6. station: oxford circus.
regency arcade running from burlington gardens to piccadilly. each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. burlington arcade, w1j 0Qj. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
St Christopher’s Place
John Lewis
Leadenhall Market
home to an exciting mix of shops selling accessories, shoes, designer brands and more, plus london’s largest concentration of pavement dining. D6. station: bond street.
fashion, homeware and electrical goods. mon-wed & fri 9.30am-8pm; thur 9.30am-9pm; sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 oxford st, w1a 1eX. t: 020-7629 7711. D6. station: oxford circus.
a grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. leadenhall market, gracechurch st, ec3V 1lr. t: 020-7621 0709. D11. station: monument. www.wheretraveler.com 55
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SHOPPING
malls & factory outlets
Jewellery & watches
Bicester Village
the king of diamond jewellery for more than 80 years in london. 171 new bond st, w1s 4rd. t: 020-7907 8800. E6. station: bond street.
Westfield London this mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. ariel way, w12 7gf. t: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. station: shepherd’s bush.
Westfield Stratford City massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 stratford place, e20 1eJ. t: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. station: stratford.
fashion Alexander McQueen a must for men’s and women’s fashions, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 old bond st, w1s 4pd. t: 020-7355 0088. E7. station: green park.
Burberry find the full burberry london and prorsum collections here, including the classic trenches and raincoats (multiple locations around london). www.burberry.com. 121 regent st, w1b 4tb. t: 020-7806 8904. E7. station: oxford circus.
Hackett polos, sporting jackets and cords, suits and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around london). www.hackett.com. 193-197 regent st, w1b 4ly. t: 020-7494 4917. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
River Island stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. www.riverisland.com. 473 oxford st, w1c 3au. t: 0344-334 0506. D5. station: marble arch.
Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 oxford st, w1a 2lr. t: 020-7491 2371. D5. station: bond street.
Pandora Jewellery and gifts, including pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 oxford st, w1c 2dd. t: 020-7407 2007. D6. station: oxford circus.
Tiffany & Co this world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around london). www.tiffany.com. the courtyard, royal exchange, ec3V 3lQ. t: 020-7409 2790. D10. station: bank.
Wempe grand, spacious setting for the luxury german family business, established in 1878. large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 new bond st, w1s 2sa. t: 020-7493 2299. E6. station: bond street.
kids’ stores The Disney Store the oxford street branch has received a sprinkle of magic and has interactive entertainment. mon-sat 9am-9pm; sun noon-6pm (branches also in wc2 and w12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 oxford st, w1c 1Jh. t: 020-7491 9136. D6. station: bond street.
Victoria Beckham has proved to be a successful chameleon: she has moved from music to fashion, and now make-up. When she launched her cosmetics collection with Estée Lauder last year, it sold out immediately. Twice. Now with her second make-up range, she has taken 10 products from the original line and introduced 18 new ones. With five looks inspired by the cities Miami, London, New York, Los Angeles and Paris, it covers a realm of looks. The products are exclusively available at Selfridges (p. 55).
LEGO Store lego merchandise, including a huge replica of big ben made from bricks. 3 swiss court, w1d 6ap. t: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7. station: leicester square.
M&M’s World sweet treats, including london-inspired chocolate souvenirs. mon-sat 10am-midnight; sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 swiss court, w1d 6ap. t: 020-7025 7171. E7. station: leicester square.
The Nickelodeon Store products inspired by the tV channel’s shows. mon-fri 10am-10pm; sat 10am-11pm; sun noon-6pm. 1 leicester square, wc2h 7na. E7. station: leicester square.
leather & luggage Anya Hindmarch luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to evening bags (multiple locations). www.anya hindmarch.com. 118 new bond st, w1s 1ew. t: 020-7493 1628. E7. station: bond street.
Moynat the uk flagship of the parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com. 112 mount st, w1k 2tu. t: 020-7495 3885. E6. station: bond street/green park.
Pick up a print of London legend Amy Winehouse at We Built This City
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specialist stores Buckingham Palace Shop royal souvenirs. mon-sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 buckingham palace rd, sw1w 0pp. t: 020-7839 1377. E6. station: Victoria.
Cath Kidston home to stylish accessories with london prints. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 piccadilly, w1J 9er. t: 020-7499 9895. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
John Bell & Croyden emergency prescriptions and vaccinations, as well as specialist doctors. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. check for opening times. 50-54 wigmore st, w1u 2au. t: 020-7935 5555. D6. station: bond street.
London Glassblowing you can pick up a dazzling souvenir here, and try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 bermondsey st, se1 3ud. t: 020-7403 2800. F11. station: london bridge.
Twinings trading since 1706, you will full of a variety of teas and infusions. mon-fri 9.30am-8pm; sat 10am-5pm; sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 strand, wc2r 1ap. t: 020-7353 3511. D9. station: temple.
We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. mon-wed 10am-7pm; thur-sat 10am-8pm; sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 carnaby st, w1f 9Qf. E7. station: oxford circus.
selfridges © istock; amy winehouse print courtesy of we built this city
find discount designer clothes at this haven in oxfordshire. mon-wed & fri 9am-9pm; thur & sat 9am-10pm; sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. bicester Village, bicester, oxfordshire, oX26 6wd. t: 01869-323 200. Off map. station: bicester Village, from london marylebone. there is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Harry Winston
19/09/2017 11:37
NO TRAINS. NO TICKETS. NO PROBLEM.
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mall, Dover Street Market offers clothing, accessories and shoes from dozens of designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes. 18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com
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SHOPPING ADVER TORIAL
FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576. By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased. The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth
and stature, but of love and affection. Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece! For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.
VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)
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The English oak Collection launches this month. Inspired by the scents of the forest, the range includes a cologne, body wash, body cream and, most famously, candles. The products come in oak and hazelnut with basil and neroli, and oak and redcurrant with blackberry and bay. 150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 0370-192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk
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Shopping ESSEntialS sizing guide US
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TaX-Free shopping Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. C
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female shopper courtesy of westfield; carnaby street © istock
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Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop! With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors! Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.
188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT
www.hamleys.com/explore
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DINING | THE GUIDE
The taste of India
Top to bottom: sharing plates and counter dining at Lokhandwala; watermelon martini at Chutney Mary; a dish at Baluchi
They say that London is the best place outside of India to try Indian cuisine. It was in 2001 that chicken tikka masala was declared Britain’s national dish by then Labour Foreign Secretary, Robin cook, and Indian food became a staple in the British diet. the cuisine has become so popular, there is now even a national curry Week (9-15 oct), and an Indian restaurant to suit all tastes – and budgets. It’s back to school with Baluchi (p. 66) at the recently opened Lalit Hotel. Located in London Bridge, the building used to be a grammar school. the menu continues the theme: starters are called Beginning – term 1, while the desserts are labelled term Break – School Holidays. do not fear, the menu is not strict: there are traditional dishes such as butter chicken, but also quirky ones like mango and coconut naan. With its high-end service – a holder is offered for your bag, so it does not touch the floor – this upmarket venue, which is decorated with chandeliers and dark wood panels, is a class act. curry champion sisters camellia and namita Panjabi revolutionised Indian cuisine from a post-pub curry takeway to sit-down meals. created in 1989, MW Eat (the Real Indian Food Group) boasts an impressive list of critically acclaimed restaurants. Chutney Mary (p. 66) recently launched a weekend brunch menu with English breakfast classics given an Indian twist, for example eggs Benedict comes with green chillies and ginger. drinks are just as inventive, as the watermelon martini comes with a tap attached to the melon that you can turn yourself to fill up your glass. If you’re after Michelin-starred Indian food, Amaya (p. 66), located in Belgravia, has an open grill kitchen, and serves seafood and grilled meats and vegetables. After a quick business lunch? the set meals have six tasting portions for £26. Step back in time to a period of colonial clubs in India at the Michelin-starred Gymkhana (p. 66). there are sharing dishes, featuring guinea fowl, goat and duck, that are not commonly found on Indian menus. Lokhandwala‘s Indian tapas has a distinctly international feel – try the achari English asparagus and vepudu taco with radish or the Indian Sunday poussin roast. the drink’s menu is a fun mix, with favourites such as turmeric almond milk latte and aloo Bhukhara smoothie, while the cocktails include Holi (inspired by the Festival of colours) and Viceroy (influenced by the British armed forces’ love of cognac). 93 Charlotte St, W1T 4PY
LokHanDwaLa IMaGES CoURTESY oF LokHanDwaLa; CHUTnEY MaRY IMaGE CoURTESY oF CHUTnEY MaRY; BaLUCHI IMaGE CoURTESY oF BaLUCHI aT THE LaLIT
Kohinoor Sahota finds there’s a curry for every taste in the capital
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81
aMERICaS (noRTh & SoUTh) Avenue Contemporary wining and dining, Manhattan-style. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & d; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat d. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, Sw1a 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaucho
Contemporary cuisine created from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. daily B, L & d. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, famed for its dover sole and traditional roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. daily B, L & d. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, w1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Goodman
Caxton Grill
Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old, and has lots of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. daily L & d. www.hardrock.com. 150 old Park Lane, w1k 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: hyde Park Corner.
Heliot Steak House hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USda beef. £££. daily L & d. www.hippodromecasino.com. Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, wC2h 7Jh. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. daily B, L & d. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor house hotel, 86 Park Lane, w1k 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: hyde Park Corner.
Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; daily d. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, w1T 1Jh. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Oblix Sophisticated new York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. daily L & d. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge. ThE EnGLISh GRILL IMaGE CoURTESY oF ThE EnGLISh GRILL
Aqua Shard
Succulent argentine steaks, plus a wine bar and entertainment. ££££. daily L & d (and branches). www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, w1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Premium new York steakhouse with dry-aged US and British beef, plus dishes such as lobster tail with garlic butter. £££. Mon-Sat L & d. www.good manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, w1S 1Qh. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: oxford Circus.
BaLUChI IMaGE CoURTESY oF BaLUChI aT ThE LaLIT
BRITISh (ModERn)
Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. daily L & d (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 haymarket, Sw1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals, and a familyfriendly menu. ££-£££. daily L & d. www.therain forestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury ave, w1d 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
STK London dine on British and american prime steaks, with dJs playing nightly. ££££. daily d. www.stkhouse.com. ME London hotel, 336 Strand, wC2R 1ha. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. daily L & d. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, Sw1h 0Qw. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. daily B, L & d. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone hotel, 1 kensington Court, w8 5dL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: high Street kensington.
City Social Jason atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and city views. £££. Mon-Fri L & d, Sat d. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 old Broad St, EC2n 1hQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
The Clove Club This Michelin-starred restaurant has ambitious dishes such as Yorkshire suckling pig with Indian spices. £££. Tue-Sat L, Mon-Sat d. www.theclove club.com. Shoreditch Town hall, 380 old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. Off map. Station: hoxton.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The superchef offers a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. daily L & d; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin oriental hyde Park, 66 knightsbridge, Sw1X 7La. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: knightsbridge.
Fera at Claridge’s Enjoy creative British dishes from local, organic ingredients, served in a beautiful art deco restaurant. ££££. daily L & d. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, w1k 4hR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. daily L; Fri d. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, wC1B 3dG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/holborn.
Holborn Dining Room This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. daily B, L & d. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 high holborn, wC1V 7En. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: holborn.
Indigo all-day restaurant serves excellent British dishes that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££. daily B & d; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. one aldwych hotel, wC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Patriotic dining
With its polished silver, classic leather banquettes and immaculate service from tail-coated waiters, you can’t help but feel like royalty at The English Grill, the new restaurant inside the Rubens at the Palace hotel. The charcoal-fired Josper grill means that meat is cooked to perfection, including citrus-grilled chicken – marinated and tender – and New York 28-day strip loin. Dishes are created from ingredients sourced from top English producers, including some that supply the Queen’s kitchen, no less. In fact, after ending your meal – perhaps with a traditional baked cheesecake or silky smooth vanilla crème brûlée, – you can take a post-prandial stroll to the nearby Royal Mews. 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. www.rubenshotel. com. F6. Station: Victoria
Magpie Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes arriving to the tables on trolleys, dim sum style. highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & d. www.magpie-london.com. 10 heddon St, w1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rex Whistler Restaurant dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast in a dining room with a century-old mural. ££. daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, Sw1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
St Pancras Grand Brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. daily B, L & d. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper
Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, n1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: king’s Cross St Pancras.
Tom’s Kitchen delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food. ££. daily B & L. Mon-Sat d. www.tomskitchen. co.uk. 27 Cale St, Sw3 3QP (and branches). T: 0207349 0202. Off map. Station: South kensington. www.wheretraveler.com 63
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DINING
BRITISH (TRAdITIONAl) Café in the Crypt This vaulted café in the church serves homely English dishes, such as fish and chips and pies. £. Mon-Sat B, l & d; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
The English Grill Restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings serving excellent grilled meats, plus daily roasts (p. 63). ££££. daily B, l, d. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
Mews of Mayfair An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. £££. daily l; Mon-Sat d. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes, including beef Wellington and steamed lobster, in a pretty dining room, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. daily B, l & d. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Serpentine Bar & Kitchen
Kai Mayfair
Eat on the terrace by the Serpentine lake. £. daily B & l. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentinebar-kitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Superior Michelin-starred cuisine with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef. ££££. daily l & d. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar
Mei Ume
Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. daily l & d. www.sophiessteak house.co.uk. 311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH. T: 0207352 0088. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.
Plush restaurant serving Chinese and Japanese cuisine, with menus comprising sushi and dim sum, Peking duck and Szechuan chicken with cashews. ££££. daily l & d. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. daily l & d. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Chai Wu
Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served at lunchtime, plus crispy duck. ££. daily l & d. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
located in Harrods, this restaurant serves dishes such as Wagyu beef. ££££. daily l; Mon-Sat d (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7Xl. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
Hakkasan
Hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, l & d. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion and traditional dishes. £££. daily l & d; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
1 Lombard Street
The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. Specialities include kedgeree, schnitzels and Frankfurter sausages. ££££. daily B, l & d. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, with great views over the capital. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun l; Mon-Sat d. www.galvinatwindows. com. Hilton on Park lane, 22 Park lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Ivy This fashionable venue is good for a late-night dinner. £££-££££. daily l & d. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: leicester Square.
OXO Tower Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. £££. daily l & d. www.oxotower.co.uk. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.
Skylon
The new Chelsea restaurant Zheng is already making a name for itself with its South East Asian menu, offering a zingy mix of Malaysian and Chinese dishes. The coconutladen beef Rendang melts in the mouth; prawns coated with oats, chilli and curry leaves are a welcome new discovery; and the green beans with minced chicken and chilli are fresh and fiery. Leave room for a dessert – the striking sagu melaka, with its pretty pink tapioca pearls in milk and palm sugar syrup, is gorgeous – just like the décor. Think dark wooden floors, slate-topped tables, plush velvet seating and hand-printed wallpaper. For something lighter and more informal, have a drink and a few small plates in the downstairs lounge. 4 Sydney St, SW3 6PP. T: 020-7352 9890. www.zhengchelsea.co.uk. Off map. Station: South Kensington
Ting Superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-la hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. daily B, l & d. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: london Bridge.
FISH ANd SEAFOOd J Sheekey Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game – great for people-watching. ££££. daily l & d. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4Al. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
ZHENG IMAGE COURTESY OF ZHENG
Feeling Zen in Zheng
Stylish dining with river views, serving dishes such as spiced duck breast. ££££. daily l & d. www.skylon -restaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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DINING Céleste
Traditional fish and chip shop with 1950s décor. £. daily L & d. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1d 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Enjoy exquisite Michelin-starred cuisine in a grand dining room. £££-££££. daily B, L & d. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7Ta. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Sea Shell Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & d. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, nW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.
FREnCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Innovative food from this world-famous Michelinstarred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & d; Sat d. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1Qa. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Bistrot de Luxe This classic Parisian-style restaurant from the Galvin brothers has superb, classic dishes. ££££. daily L & d. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7dJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & d; daily d. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.
Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. daily L & d. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7Ed. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with a cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. There is an outstanding wine list. £££. daily L & d. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8Jd. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
L’Escargot London’s oldest French restaurant serves classic dishes. ££. Mon-Sat B, L & d; Sun L. www.lescargot. co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1d 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Sketch Multiple restaurants under one roof, including a stylish brasserie with artwork by david Shrigley, serving French-European cuisine. ££££. daily B, L & d. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
GaSTROPUBS The Grazing Goat all-day dining, with seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. daily B, L & d. www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk. 6 new Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble arch.
The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving top-quality British produce. £££. daily L & d. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9Pa. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.
Sing for your supper Modern Mexico has arrived in London thanks to Martha Ortiz, who brings her love of food and culture from her homeland to the InterContinental London Park Lane hotel. At her chic new restaurant Ella Canta, which is Spanish for ‘she sings’, the celebrated chef takes her favourite regional Mexican dishes and stirs them up with a contemporary twist, as anyone who has visited her famous Mexico City restaurant, Dulce Patria, will testify. Try her famous mole, a rich cacao-tinged sauce dating back to the 16th century, made with up to 30 ingredients – and so intricate that Ortiz has devised a tasting menu of seven moles to honour it. Or for something equally delicious, try the beef tartare with maiz gordita – an unusual take on the humble taco. One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY. T: 020-7409 3131. www.ellacanta.com. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner
IndIan Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen (p. 62). £££. daily L & d. www.amaya.biz. Halkin arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Baluchi at the Lalit London Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star hotel in a Grade II-listed Victorian building (p. 62). £££. daily B, L & d. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Benares Michelin-starred chef atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat L & d, Sun d. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary Expect a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this glamorous restaurant (p. 62). £££. MonFri B, L & d; Sat L & d. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant serving award-winning sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. daily L & d. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Gymkhana This Michelin-starred venue, with a colonial style, focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills (p. 62). £££. daily L & d. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.
Khan’s of Kensington Enjoy north Indian tandoor, fish and vegetarian dishes. ££. daily L & d. www.khansofkensington. co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.
La Porte des Indes dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for dishes with French-Creole influences. £££. daily L & d. www.laportedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble arch.
Little India This cosy venue specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. daily L & d. www.little indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Masala Zone In this chain of newly-refurbished restaurants, enjoy Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali. ££. daily L & d (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Memories of India Close to the museums and the Royal albert Hall, this restaurant serves authentic flavours from north India. ££. daily L & d. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes in a stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily d. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
SEaFOOd and LOBSTER POzOLE COURTESY OF ELLa CanTa
Poppie’s
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Authenticity with flair
Time for tea
There is nothing quite typical about good Indian food. The quality and variety that we serve at the Gaylord Restaurant on Mortimer Street (near Westend and Oxford Street) is enough to draw foodies of all nationalities from miles away. Add to that, the innovative and contemporary food presentation makes a dining experience here stand apart. The restaurant has been a British Curry Award finalist and has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966!
For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist
ROYAL ALBERT HALL If you like drama with your afternoon tea, then feast like a maestro this month at our musical or theatrical venues – perhaps before an evening performance or after a tour. This 19thcentury venue, encircled by a mosaic frieze, is known for its summer-long BBC Proms festival, but it has world-class concerts year-round. The hall has hosted many a royal guest for tea over the decades, so you’ll be in good company at the elegant Verdi restaurant for afternoon tea. Enjoy smoked salmon, crème fraîche and balsamic caviar, tempting treats such as mango, passion fruit and Jivara éclair, accompanied by a Staunton Earl Grey Martini. On selected dates (7, 14, 28 Oct), you can enjoy a live opera while you dine. Kensington Gore, Kensington, SW7 2AP
BARBICAN
AFTERNOON TEA IMAGE COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL
SEAFOOD AND LOBSTER POZOLE COURTESY OF ELLA CANTA
118mm x124mm
Although the Barbican appears like a huge concrete behemoth – an arts centre with concert hall, galleries and cinemas – venture deep and it’s easy to imagine you’ve left the city behind. Its huge conservatory is home to a tropical oasis, with more than 2,000 species of plants and trees plus exotic fish in a tiny lake. On Sundays, this lush setting is the place to head to for a relaxing afternoon tea featuring unusual dishes made with some of the plants grown on site: try coconut and kaffir lime chicken, lemon thyme and date palm scones, and orange and lavender cake. You can also book conservatory tours with the resident gardeners. Silk Street, EC2Y 8DS
79-81 Mortimer Street London W1W 7SJ 020 7580 3615 www.gaylordlondon.com
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
HOUSE RESTAURANT Dine like a diva at the National Theatre with a specially created afternoon tea that’s inspired by famous stage shows. Its menu cleverly resembles a theatre programme, with a ‘Curtain up!’ cocktail followed by two courses, or ‘acts’, and an ice-cream ‘interval’. Delicately nibble on Lady Bracknell triangles with cucumber and cream cheese (inspired by The Importance of Being Earnest) before enjoying a gruesome-sounding Mrs Lovett’s pie with pork and onion (Sweeney Todd). Upper Ground, South Bank, SE1 9PX
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
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DINING Tamarind michelin-starred take on mughal cuisine is served in a smart mayfair dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen st, W1J 5pr. t: 020-7629 3561. E6. station: green park.
Veeraswamy this opulent michelin-starred restaurant has stylish cuisine from several regions of india. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. mezzanine floor, victory House, 99 regent st, W1B 4rs. t: 0207734 1401. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
internationaL Bbar
itaLian Cicchetti all-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant; try the scallop gratin. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington st, Wc2e 7BD (and piccadilly branch). t: 020-7494 9435. E8. station: covent garden.
Quattro Passi try the raw seafood bar or king prawn risotto at this michelin-starred venue. ££. mon-sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover st, W1s 4ng. t: 020-3096 1444. E6. station: green park.
Rossopomodoro
enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, near Buckingham palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham palace rd, sW1W 0pp. t: 020-7958 7000. F6. station: victoria.
enjoy neapolitan food in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 oxford st, W1c 1DX (and branches). t: 020-7629 7711. D7. station: oxford circus.
The Cavendish
Verdi – Italian Kitchen
this restaurant serves mains such as rabbit ravioli and salmon with tapenade. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 new cavendish st, W1g 9tr. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. t: 020-7487 3030. C5. station: Baker street.
Dine on fresh italian classics or enjoy afternoon tea, plus live music brunch at weekends. ££. tue-sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. royal albert Hall, sW7 2ap. t: 020-7070 4401. F4. station: south Kensington.
SushiSamba
Japanese & Korean
Japanese, Brazilian and peruvian fusion cuisine at this rooftop terrace with 360-degree views across the capital. try the ‘anticuchos’ skewers cooked over a traditional robata grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushi samba.com. 38th floor, 110 Bishopsgate, ec2n 4ay. t: 020-3640 7330. D11. station: Liverpool street.
Benihana chefs make dishes at your table; try the Wagyu beef or miso black cod. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 sackville st, W1s 3eH (and branches). t: 020-7494 2525. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
Engawa this refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham yard, W1D 7Dt. t: 020-7287 5724. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
Nobu Delicious sashimi, sushi and tempura from the acclaimed Japanese chef nobu matsuhisa. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 old park Lane, W1K 1LB. t: 020-7447 4747. E6. station: Hyde park corner.
Onodera this sleek, subterranean mayfair restaurant has top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury st, sW1y 6aL. t: 020-7839 1101. E6. station: green park.
miDDLe eastern, greeK & turKisH Elysee since 1936, this family restaurant has been serving greek dishes, from souvlaki to lamb cutlets. there is a roof terrace, shisha lounge and late licence. £££. mon-sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 percy st, W1t 1Dp. t: 020-7636 4804. D7. station: tottenham court road.
Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon st, W1B 4BH. t: 020-7434 4040. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
Nopi innovative middle eastern-inspired food from yotam ottolenghi, with seasonal dishes to share in an informal space. try the courgette and manouri fritters. ££-£££. Daily B & L; mon-sat D. www.nopirestaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick st, W1B 5ne. t: 020-7494 9584. E7. station: piccadilly circus.
Yasmeen authentic Lebanese cuisine in the heart of st John’s Wood, with excellent mezze, charcoalgrilled meat and vegetarian dishes. there is also outdoor seating. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeen restaurant.com. 1 Blenheim terrace, nW8 0eH. t: 020-7624 2921. Off map. station: st John’s Wood.
riversiDe Bateaux London
Finding an afternoon tea where the savoury dishes are just as delicious as the sweet ones can be tricky. At 108 Pantry, in the Marylebone Hotel, its menu is filled with tasty treats. To ensure nobody misses out on the joy of afternoon tea, there are classic and glutenfree options. Try a touch of comfort food with a twist: from black truffle sausage rolls to peanut butter brownies with caramel popcorn. The traditional scones, which are fluffy and fresh, are served with Devonshire clotted cream. If you are still craving sweet dishes, the pantry has cakes and tarts from £2-£4. The cosy, light-filled room, with comfortable, brightly coloured furniture, makes this a relaxing place to partake in the tradition. Take your pick from a selection of rare teas, or upgrade with a glass of Champagne. 108 Marylebone Lane, W1U 1QE. T: 020-7969 3900. www.108brasserie.com/pantry. D6. Station: Oxford Circus
The London Showboat Drift down the river thames while enjoying a four-course dinner. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily Westminster pier 7.45pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster pier, sW1a 2Jr. t: 020-7740 0400. F8. station: Westminster.
RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the river thames serving British dishes such as braised pork belly. opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. victoria embankment/Hungerford Bridge, Wc2n 5DJ. t: 020-7839 3011. E8. station: embankment.
afternoon tea image courtesy of 108 pantry
An afternoon of delights
enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com. embankment pier, Wc2n 6nu. t: 020-7695 1800. E8. station: embankment.
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south East asian Chi Kitchen Pan-asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 oxford st, W1C 1JG. t: 020-3841 6888. D6. station: oxford Circus.
Mango Tree
BRIGHT COURTYARD CLUB restaurant · lounge · events Bright Courtyard Club is a contemporary Chinese restaurant situated in the landmark building, 55 Baker Street.
Elegant fine dining with regional thai cuisine, such as sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, sW1X 7EQ. t: 020-7823 1888. F6. station: Victoria.
Rosa’s Thai Café at this informal venue in Carnaby, enjoy spicy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton st, W1F 9BW (and branches). t: 020-7287 9617. D7. station: oxford Circus.
Thai Pot this informal spot offers a huge range of good-value thai dishes. £. Mon-sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2n 4BP. t: 020-7379 4580. D8. station: Covent Garden.
sPanish El Pirata this buzzing Mayfair bar-restaurant serves authentic hot and cold tapas, such as deep-fried monkfish medallions. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down st, W1J 7aG. t: 020-7491 3810. E6. station: hyde Park Corner.
Sophisticated, fashionable yet discreet, we are definitely the ideal venue for your important lunch meeting, tranquil afternoon tea or full-filled dinner party. BCY offer our guests an all-day grazing experience, specializing in authentic dim sum, modern Cantonese and traditional Shanghai cuisine with a twist. The Three private suites can accommodate 8 to 20 guests. Our glass-roofed courtyard lounge can accommodate 200 seated or 250 standing. It’s time to plan your Christmas party either for your family or company. Set menus are available for inquiry. Our experienced event organising team will give the highest levels of dedication and attention to detail.
43-45 Baker Street London W1U 8EW t: 020 7486 6998 www.brightcourtyard.co.uk
Iberica Victoria traditional spanish dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria st, sW1E 6sQ. t: 020-3327 0200. F7. station: Victoria.
Moro north africa meets spain in this Moorish restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. t: 020-7833 8336. Off map. station: Farringdon.
VEGEtaRian The Gate the latest branch serves tasty dishes such as butternut rotolo. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegate restaurants.com. 22-24 seymour Place, W1h 7nL. t: 020-7724 6656. D5. station: Marble arch.
Mildreds this informal soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie. ££. Monsat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington st, W1F 9an. t: 020-7494 1634. D7. station: oxford Circus.
Tibits at the buffet counter, help yourself to crunchy salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 heddon st, off Regent st, W1B 4Da. t: 020-7758 4110. E7. station: Piccadilly Circus.
Woodlands tasty cuisine from india. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1u 2Ps (and branches). t: 020-7486 3862. D6. station: Bond street. www.wheretraveler.com 69
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bEsT Of LONDON DININg Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.
El Pirata
32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and Wagyu steak. Mon-Sat 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm); Sun 12noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).
Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields
Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge
Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Saturdays and Sundays), Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special offers and opening hours. Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org
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bEsT Of LONDON DININg Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary Pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. The open-plan restaurant lets guests watch the chefs at work, as they prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of delicious dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a unique culinary journey through South-East Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal.
Mango Tree
Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
Mango Tree, an award-wining Thai restaurant in Belgravia, is a unique and spacious venue that’s perfect for a wide range of events and celebrations. Whether it’s a wedding reception, cocktail party, birthday or Christmas corporate event, you can be assured that Mango Tree will offer an authentic Thai experience in a luxurious modern setting, with the warm hospitality for which it is known. Mention ‘Where’ when book your party Christmas party this October and get an exclusive 10 per cent off your total bill. Monday-Wednesday 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner. Also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Twitter @MangoTreeLondon. Email: info@mangotree.org.uk
Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.
Memories of India
3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington
At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.
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nightlife | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery
Winning whiskies As autumnal evenings draw in, it’s a perfect month to settle down for a warming whisky. Emma Levine visits some of the capital’s specialist bars for a ‘wee dram‘ Discussions continue long into the night to unravel the fiery brew’s ancient origins (Ireland or Scotland?); the best way to drink it (straight up or with a mixer?); and even the spelling (whiskey or whisky?). But the meaning of whisky is clear, derived from the Gaelic ‘usquebaugh’, meaning ‘water of life’. Yes, it’s as important as that. To get the most out of the distilled delight, head to a specialist bar offering dozens of varieties far beyond the ‘usual’ nations of Scotland, Ireland and the US – it’s time to sample types from all over the world, including Japan and India. named after a port in the outer Hebrides, Boisdale of Canary Wharf takes its liquor seriously, with a mind-blowing selection, especially of Scottish malts. Connoisseurs and novices will love its menu’s tasting notes, bottling details and guide to whisky regions, in a venue reminiscent of a stately home with art-lined deep red walls, leather armchairs and wood-panelling. It’s not surprising that the nightly blues, soul and jazz nights are famous – Boisdale boasts Jools Holland as its patron
of music. Feeling hungry? Then enjoy Shetland mussels, Scottish steaks and orkney salmon – and there’s also a cigar library (Cabot Place, E14 4QT). Milroy’s of Soho is a cosy contrast. This tucked-away gem is part of a specialist whisky shop that has been going strong for more than half a century. Inside, it boasts a tiny ground-floor whisky bar with more than 250 whiskies, from Sweden to South Africa.
Indulge in a private tasting session where you can sample five varieties (3 Greek St, W1D 4NX). With a wall of 550 bottles of whisky from 10 countries, Merchant House takes the myth of whisky being a man’s drink and gives it a contemporary twist. ‘This is not a whisky bar. This is a cocktail bar’, is the venue’s mantra, so expect well-devised whisky concoctions, served in delicate stemmed glasses. Many have a folkloric, literary theme – try the fresh, clean Émigré, paying homage to the Irish who escaped the Famine, made with pure pot still whiskey, apple, rhubarb and elderflower (8 Bride Court, EC4Y 8DU). Previously a glue factory, East London Liquor Company has put the industrial space to good use. Launched in 2014, this independent distillery produces small-batch spirits, including whiskies matured in former American, French and European barrels, providing a variety of tastes. Situated in the city’s fashionable East End, it has revived the capital’s whisky production, more than a century after the last barrel was produced here (221 Grove Rd, E3 5SN).
BoIsDalE ImaGE coUrTEsy of BoIsDalE; mErcHanT HoUsE cockTaIl anD InTErIor ImaGEs coUrTEsy of mErcHanT HoUsE; EasT lonDon lIqUor company coUrTEsy of EasT lonDon lIqUor company; mIlroy’s of soHo coUrTEsy of mIlroy’s of soHo
Clockwise from this image: Jools Holland at Boisdale; Merchant House cocktail; East London Liquor Company; Merchant House; Milroy’s of Soho
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81
Gordon’s Wine Bar
Top Pick
London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. It’s usually crowded. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
Nightjar Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails are the signature of this basement hangout. Live music from the golden age of jazz adds a touch of style. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
One New Change Champagne Bar Located near St Paul’s Cathedral, this bar boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus cocktails and premium beers (various branches around London). www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. 1/F One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 020-7871 1213. D10. Station: St Paul’s.
When you hear that a Michelin-starred chef is overseeing a pub menu, you know it’s likely to be a cut above the rest. Michael Roux Jr has taken the reins at The Wigmore, a refurbished pub at The Langham hotel. The former banking hall has high ceilings, moss-green décor, leather wing chairs and Art Deco windows. Its cocktail list is influenced by London classics – try the Toreador made according to the famous Café Royale Cocktail Book. There’s also a list of ‘hoptails’ – a mix of spirits – including Pilsner Urquell with holy grass vodka. Hearty bar snacks include a masala-spiced Scotch egg and ox-tongue potatoes. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. D6. Station: Oxford Circus
TRADITIONAL PUBS
BARS & CLUBS
The Blackfriar
The Back Room
This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which is more than a century old, specialises in cask ales. www. nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons, and is allegedly haunted. www. theflaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub. www.thespaniards hampstead.co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by huge arched ceilings. Try the tasty bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
BYOC At this ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ venue, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create your drink. Booking is advisable. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
Reverend J W Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after the cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails and Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There are leather banquettes and call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Waxy O’Connor’s
John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead
Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 0207734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Long-standing Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxyoconnors. co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Zetter Townhouse
Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this super stylish, intimate cocktail lounge. www.the zettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St. John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
THIS PAGE: THE WIGMORE IMAGE © PAUL JUDD FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY OPPOSITE PAGE: ERDINGER OKTOBERFEST IMAGE COURTESY OF ERDINGER OKTOBERFEST
A great British pub
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NIGHTLIFE Grosvenor Gloucester Casino
The 100 Club
A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenor casinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Stringfellows
Famous basement music venue with rock and blues bands, plus DJ and club nights. www.the100 club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant, located close to Leicester Square in the heart of the capital. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining and the food is extremely impressive – try the 28 day dry-aged Aberdeen Angus steaks, traditional fish and chips or roast chicken. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St. Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a poker lounge, sports bar and a charming restaurant. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3642 8531. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
Ronnie Scott’s World-famous jazz venue with a bar and restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it good for families. Live acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. More intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations highly recommended. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Blues Kitchen This busy venue stages nightly blues, soul and jazz, plus a DJ at weekends. Dozens of varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food. www.the blueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar with live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out, with live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, where many of Britain’s comedians made their mark. www.thecomedy store.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London Cabaret Club
OPPOSITE PAGE: ERDINGER OKTOBERFEST IMAGE COURESY OF ERDINGER OKTOBERFEST
Cabaret gets a modern twist inside the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is full of hits from the past 60 years, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre. Dinner and VIP tickets. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.
Bavaria on the Thames Erdinger Oktoberfest (5-22 Oct) comes to London and transforms Canary Wharf into a little slice of Germany. Erdinger Weißbräu Privatbrauerei, the world’s largest wheat beer brewery, has created a traditional Bavarian beer hall in a huge tent, where you can enjoy Bratwurst sausages, Munich’s most famous Oktoberfest bands and beautiful riverside views. www.erdingeroktoberfest.co.uk
DINE DA N C E DA R E
The London Cabaret Club The London Cabaret is set in the exquisite surroundings of The Bloomsbury Ballroom and operates two amazing shows weekly. On Fridays swing through the decades with The Best of British Pop, enjoy beloved hits, impressive staging, mesmerising dancers and costumes. Journey from the freedom days of the 60’s and 70’s to London’s punk movement in the 80’s, 90’s Britpop as well as today’s leading anthems. Then enjoy a DJ and dance floor until 3am! For a more suave Saturday evening London Cabaret Club’s 007-themed special, London Never Dies. Be transported to the glamorous Bond world of romance and espionage with gourmet dining and a stunning cabaret show, including groundbreaking 4D special effects.
For group bookings contact:
020 7242 0002
bookings@thelondoncabaretclub.com use code WHERE at www.thelondoncabaretclub.com to get 25% off all ticket tiers
The London Cabaret Club Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA
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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE
East is East
It’s all Chinese to me one of the city’s best-loved spas has just had a major upgrade – splash out in the pool or treat yourself to a relaxing massage, says Kohinoor Sahota With many treatments to choose from, highlights include Magnesium Wellness Treatment’s therapeutic massage with a bamboo stick, Complete Harmony Ritual’s massage with precious stones to balance the seven chakra energy points, and Chuan Stone Therapy, which channels yin and yang energies through hot and cold stones. There is also a dedicated menu for men – Eastern Spiced Revival stands out with its oriental oils, spiced pinda pouches and sticks that are used to work on deep knots. Spa manager Stephanie Coogan says: ‘We’re delighted with the new products and reconfigured layout of the spa that provide a significantly enhanced offering. We are excited to welcome back our valued members and greet new ones.’ The facilities have been upgraded: it has a 16m-long swimming pool, which has a new UV filter to lessen the amount of chlorine needed, plus a larger gym where you can work out and watch TV shows on netflix or iPlayer. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. www.chuanspa.com
USHVANI Malaysian artwork and the delicate aroma of spices set the tone at Ushvani, a luxurious day spa in Knightsbridge. This tranquil venue was founded by Malaysia-born Usha Arumugam, who wanted to bring a taste of her homeland to England. Among its vast array of treatments, indulge in a 90-minute Balinese massage to boost your circulation, or enjoy the spa’s new-look warming herbal ritual using a bespoke blend of oils. Men can also treat themselves; try a men’s signature facial using soothing keremiri oil and shea butter. You’re in good hands – the therapists here are some of the best trained in the world (p. 77).
QUAN SpA This boutique spa in Kensington is the place to feel rejuvenated. Have acupuncture (a form of Chinese medicine with a 5,000-yearold history), get your eyebrows threaded, or be invigorated with a deep tissue massage. 46 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4QT. T: 020 7589 1616. www.quanspa.co.uk
pool coUrTEsy of cHUan spa; HEaD massaGE © IsTock
There are many spas in London that claim to specialise in Chinese treatments, but few take it quite as seriously as Chuan Spa. The name itself is fitting – ‘chuan’ means a serene course of water, and in Chinese culture flowing water symbolises the practice of keeping the mind, body and soul in check. As The Langham is one of London’s most iconic hotels – more than 150 years old – it’s only right that it should have an iconic spa. Located at the top of Regent Street with its own entrance, the spa has now reopened its doors after a major refurbishment, inspired, of course, by the principles of feng shui. The treatments are all based on traditional Chinese medicines, and the five elemental forces of wood, fire, earth, metal and water. Before you start a treatment, you are given a five-element questionnaire to fill in, which assesses any imbalances in your life, and five-element essential oils, incense, candles and teas are used. new products offered, also based on the elements, include Germain de Capuccini and Kerstin Florian. 76 W H E R E Lo n d o n I o C To B E R 2017
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81
spas Aveda Institute this three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using aveda’s plant-based products. the express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 high holborn, Wc1V 7aa. t: 020-7759 7355. D8. station: holborn.
Bamford Haybarn Spa loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. there is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. the Berkeley hotel, Wilton place, sW1X 7rl. t: 020-7201 1699. F6. station: knightsbridge.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa an exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the figaro hair salon. there are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. chelsea harbour drive, sW10 0Xg. t: 020-7300 5011. Off map. station: imperial Wharf.
Elemis Day Spa this spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. in the penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with your guest while sipping champagne. the speed spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2 lancashire court, W1s 1eX. t: 020-7499 4995. E6. station: Bond street.
Jurlique founded by dr Jürgen klein, a biochemist, and his wife ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 oxford st, W1c 2au. t: 0800-040 7685. D8. station: Bond street.
Mandara Spa this spa has an asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. park plaza hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge rd, se1 7ut. t: 020-7620 7300. F8. station: Waterloo.
Mandarin Oriental a luxury spa inspired by chinese massage methods. facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer ruben tabares – sessions can be held in hyde park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 knightsbridge, sW1X 7la. t: 020-7235 2000. F5. station: knightsbridge.
One Aldwych this spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are natura Bissé and oskia. the health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. one aldwych, Wc2B 4BZ. t: 020-7300 0600. D8. station: covent garden.
The Refinery the men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. if you want to master a wet shave, you can book a principles of shaving lesson. also available at harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook st, W1k 5du. t: 020-7409 2001. E6. station: Bond street.
AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel an oasis of calm in the West end that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. there are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. albemarle st, W1s 4Bp. t: 020-7518 4009. E7. station: green park.
Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
The Spa at Dolphin Square moroccan-inspired luxury. signature massages include the moroccan majorelle and arabian ceremony. treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. chichester st, sW1V 3lX. t: 020-7798 6767. Off map. station: pimlico.
Spa Illuminata
07879 697478
this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 south audley st, W1k 2Qs. t: 020-7499 7777. E6. station: marble arch.
Urban Retreat at Harrods this is one of the few places in london that offers paraffin wax baths. special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. there’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. fifth floor, harrods, 87-135 Brompton rd, sW1X 7Xl. t: 020-7893 8333. F5. station: knightsbridge.
Ushvani
Late appointments available
plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. treatments include a malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices (p. 76). www.ushvani.com. 1 cadogan gardens, sW3 2rJ. t: 020-7730 2888. G5. station: sloane square.
salons Gentlemen’s Tonic this is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton place, W1J 6nn. t: 020-7297 4343. E6. station: Bond street.
Geo F Trumper a traditional barbershop in mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 curzon st, W1J 5hQ. t: 020-7499 1850. E6. station: green park.
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar at this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. selfridges, 400 oxford st, W1a 1aB. t: 020-7493 1600. E6. station: Bond street.
©THINKSTOCK
pool courtesy of chuan spa; head massage © istock
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM
Jo Hansford this hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. the salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 south audley st, W1k 2QB. t: 020-7495 7774. E6. station: marble arch.
Windle & Moodie an award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. the 20-minute speed styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 shorts gardens, Wc2h 9ap. t: 020-7497 2393. D8. station: covent garden.
where
Recommended by youR concieRge
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards
Concierges in the capital use Where London for information — these concierges share their top tips
Clive James Bennett
Stephen Chandler
Burak Ipekci
Head concierge at Durrants Hotel
Concierge at Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
Head concierge at The Westbury Mayfair
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? I was once asked to source a teacup Chihuahua for a guest from the Middle East. I found a breeder in Yorkshire, and sent a driver to collect it.
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? I shipped breast milk to the States to arrive the same day for two completely unrelated women at the same time!
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? I have too many nondisclosure agreements hanging over my head to answer that truthfully! All I can say is that one person’s strange is another person’s normal.
What makes your hotel special? Durrants is special as it is one of the last privatelyowned hotels in London. Tell us about a hidden gem. St Christopher’s Place is a haven of cafés, restaurants and boutiques, two minutes walk from Oxford Street. It’s great for a relaxing drink after shopping. And outside London? Hampton Court Palace is easily reached in under an hour from Waterloo. It has beautiful grounds.
What makes your hotel special? Our sushi and sashimi restaurant, Ichi, is wonderful. It hosts a sushi afternoon tea and a sushi masterclass. Tell us about a hidden gem. Newens, near Kew Gardens. The restaurant is centuries old and supplied tarts, known as Maids of Honour, to King Henry VIII. And outside London? Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birthplace, and the Church of the Holy Trinity, where he is buried.
What makes your hotel special? We are the only hotel on Bond Street, and are home to Michelin-starred Alyn Williams restaurant. Tell us about a hidden gem. There are hidden gems, from Handel & Hendrix in London to the traditional barbershop inside Dolce & Gabbana on Bond Street. And outside London? Woodstock in Oxfordshire is home to Blenheim Palace. Bicester Village, which is lined with discount designer shops, is nearby.
Inset: St Christopher’s Place Left: Blenheim Palace Above: Handel & Hendrix in London
An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).
CLIVE JAMES BENNETT COURTESY OF DURRANTS HOTEL; STEPHEN CHANDLER COURTESY OF PARK PLAZA WESTMINSTER BRIDGE; BURAK IPEKCI COURTESY OF THE WESTBURY MAYFAIR; ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE © ISTOCK; BLENHEIM PALACE COURTESY OF BLENHEIM PALACE; HANDEL & HENDRIX IN LONDON COURTESY OF HANDEL & HENDRIX IN LONDON
AT YOUR SERVICE
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Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
london’s only cable car runs across the river thames between greenwich peninsula (the o2) and the royal docks (excel london). you can board from either the north greenwich or royal victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). you can buy a combined ticket with mbna thames clippers and london transport museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Taxis you can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. fares increase after 8pm. you cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. we strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire make sure your driving licence is valid for the uk and see ‘congestion charge’ below. 4x4 vehicle hire: t: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. hertz: t: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. kendall cars ltd: t: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. enterprise rent-a-car: t: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge underground sign © istock; map courtesy of tfl
st christopher’s place © istock; blenheim palace courtesy of blenheim palace; handel & hendrix in london courtesy of handel & hendrix in london
ESSENTIALS
there is a congestion charge to drive into central london, mon-fri 7am-6pm. payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). uk: t: 034-3222 2222. international: t: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river mbna thames clippers: t: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. services run between waterloo pier and the o2 (north greenwich pier) and on to royal arsenal woolwich pier, stopping at 20 main piers. discounts on single journeys on all mbna thames clippers river buses. the river roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.
On foot it’s often quicker to get around london by walking. look out for blue and yellow legible london street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles there are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central london. from £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. there’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call t: 0343-222 6666.
24-hour Tube lines
Coaches
Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.
london’s main coach services use victoria coach station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the uk and some parts of europe. sw1w 9tp. t: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches victoria. Map D4.
delivery Mail Boxes Etc. worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. there are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the uk and ireland. mail boxes are also trained certified packers. t: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79
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WHERE NOW | SIR TIM RICE
SIR TIM RICE LYRICIST Sir Tim Rice has written the lyrics for musicals, including Evita, Jesus Christ Superstar and Joseph and His Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. He won an Oscar for his work on Aladdin and The Lion King, which can both be seen in the West End What traditional buildings do you like?
What was it like being made a Sir?
I love so many landmarks, especially Westminster Abbey and St Paul’s Cathedral.
I was in two minds about whether I wanted to accept it. I’m honoured to have an honour, but I sometimes think to myself: ‘It would be nice if your name didn’t change.’
What new buildings do you like? I quite like The Shard – I think it’s rather good. The Shard is probably almost too high, but I like looking at it from a distance. I’m not so keen on the Gherkin for some reason. I’m glad it’s there, though; I’ve been up it and it was a great experience.
Which galleries do you love visiting? I go to all the major galleries. The National Portrait Gallery is my favourite, as I collect portraits of kings and queens. I’ve got an Elizabeth I that I could lend them, but they haven’t asked me! I also love The National Gallery, especially if there’s a particular exhibition on that I want to see. I like wandering down Cork Street, Mayfair, as you can find out about artists you have never heard of. I have occasionally bought pictures there.
Where do you like to go shopping? I’m not a shopper at all. There’s a very good farmers’ market in Barnes, West London. I go to it on a Saturday morning and buy pasta, meat, oil and stuffed vine leaves. I really love going into bookshops, and Daunt Books on Marylebone High Street is very good. I used to love visiting record shops, but they don’t really exist now. I have no interest whatsoever in clothes shops and shoe shops. The last time I set foot in Harrods was 10 years ago on Christmas Eve to panic buy. I tend to do all of my clothes shopping abroad.
go, there’s a very nice riverside pub called The White Hart. I don’t like being pestered, so if I go to the local pub, all the people know me and it doesn’t really matter.
Are you a member of any clubs? Tell us about songwriting. I have often said this – whether you’re writing for an Argentine dictator’s wife, in Evita, or for a warthog with wind problems, as I did in The Lion King, you’ve got to think about the basic rule: what would that character say? It’s not always something very sophisticated! With songs, you want your song to live on; as a songwriter, not a performer, you’ve got to have a lyric that people can identify with, however good the tune.
What restaurants do you enjoy? There are lots of good restaurants in Barnes. One of my favourites is Riva – it’s a great Italian restaurant. There’s another one called Sonny’s Kitchen, which is very good. I’m not that adventurous. I do go to restaurants outside of Barnes occasionally, but I’m not a mega foodie.
Share with us your favourite places to drink. Because I don’t go to places to drink, I don’t go to pubs very much in London – I tend to visit them when I’m in the country. On the rare occasion that I do
I’m not a member of any clubs, but my son is. I’ll have the odd dinner with him at one of them – he’s great fun.
Where would you stay the night in London? It would probably be in the luxury suite at the Savoy. It would be quite nice to spend a night in a capsule on the Coca-Cola London Eye. I like the London Eye. It’s great; a big success, especially since the Millennium Dome (now The O2) was so awful – not the building, just what was in it. And the London Eye, which was almost a minor thing compared to the Dome, was fantastic. I hope the London Eye is there forever! Aladdin, Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. The Lion King, Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. www.thelionking.co.uk
Clockwise from top left: St Paul’s Cathedral; Sir Tim Rice; the Savoy; Coca-Cola London Eye; the genie from Aladdin; Aladdin Daunt Books
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL AND COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © ISTOCK; SIR TIM RICE © HELEN MAYBANKS; THE SAVOY © RICHARD BRYANT; ALADDIN GENIE COURTESY OF DISNEY; DAUNTS IMAGE COURTESY OF DAUNTS
My Perfect Day
82 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2017
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K PA R EY BL EM W
THE WEMBLEY
STADIUM
TOUR
GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE UKS LARGEST SPORTING AND MUSIC VENUE
wembleystadium.com/tours +44 (0)800 169 9933
Special group rates available TOURS DEPART DAILY: 10:00 – 16:00
PRINTED TRANSLATION GUIDES AVAILABLE IN 9 LANGUAGES
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