Life and Sole

LIFE AND SOLE

What you didn’t know about shoes

g r a c e wa t l i n g

Designed and edited by Grace Watling www.gracewatling.co.uk All rights reserved.

Copyright Š Grace Watling 2011 All images unless otherwise stated at the end of this book belong to the Author.

Printed and Bound in UK by Ripe Digital Limited www.ripedigital.co.uk Paper stock source from Fedrigoni www.fedrigoni.co.uk Typeset in Minion Pro / Helvetica Bold

Life and sole

grac e watl i n g

Introduction

1

the

g Beginnin

4

24

46

66

Assumptions

82

Etiquette

94

108

THE SYMBOL

Index

126

Introduction

Shoes are familiar objects to us all. Right from an early age we wear shoes to protect our feet and provide us with comfort as we grow, and throughout our lives. As well as their dominant function and the sentimental value we hold for them, they also hold many other mysteries. Right throughout history there have been other qualities they possess, demonstrated by the finding of spiritually decorated sandals in Egyptian Tombs, to Victorian buried shoes, which were believed to keep the devil away. But it seems clear that in today’s world where the majority of our clothing is mass-produced, we overlook The Shoes alternative function. Well not anymore, this book explores the story of shoes, past and present. If you are looking for a book about shoe fashion, you will not find it here! Instead I can guarantee you an in-depth look into why shoes are not just about aesthetics, but hold the key to a colourful past, and potentially a more interesting future.

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3

the Beginning

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5

‘And from then on, when man discovered the vastness of the world around him, he chose to venture into it wearing things to protect him. Footwear was a part of this lifestyle choice’ Bally

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Prehistoric

Existance The concept of shoes is an ancient one. Our prehistoric ancestors used to live in extreme weather conditions and they realized the impact that it had on their feet, and that they needed to protect them from sharp rocks, burning sands, and rough terrain over which they had to ramble in search of food and shelter. In warmer climates they wore what we would now call sandals. It is thought that they did this by strapping a mat of woven grass, a strip of animal hide, or a slab of flat wood to their feet with ‘thongs’ that were cut out of animal hide. They also developed a type of string that was twisted together to form twine. This string was also used to secure bark or animal skin to the feet for protection.

For the more active man they would even tighten the fit of the sandals by pulling this animal hide ‘thong’ through their toes and tie it around their ankles.

In colder climates they would adapt these sandals by adding some warmer material to the top of their foot.

Shoes back then served a purpose and that was all.

They were uni-sex, and it was not even considered that they could flatter the foot. They were simply ‘do-it-yourself ’ creations.

7

The development of twine originated from the need by our prehistoric ancestors to secure their footwear

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Old Shoe

Remains

A single example of a sandal discovered by Cressman in oregon.

Estimated age 14,000 to 17,000 years old

Shoe discovered in armenia, estimated at 5, 500 years old

9

The UK’s oldest shoe found is thought to be around 2000 years old and was unearthed in 2005 in a Somerset quarry.

It is equivalent to a size 10, suggesting the owner was male.

But the oldest shoes in the world to date are still believed to be the 75 pairs of 9,000-year-old sandals excavated by L.S Cressman in 1938 in the fort Rock cave in Oregon.

These sandals were made from woven sagebrush bark.

More recently in June 2010 a 5,500-year-old pair of shoes were discovered in a cave in Armenia. This shoe existed 400 years before Stonehenge and 1000 years before the pyramids were formed. The shoe was likely to have been crafted from cow skin, and stitched together with leather thread. It was around a UK size 5, but at this period of time a man or a woman could have worn it. It was found with grass inside which could have kept its shape or provided insulation. It was found concealed by sheep excrement, which is believed to have stopped it from decaying.

Although all these shoes have been recorded as the oldest shoes in the world that is not to suggest shoes could were not in existence thousands of years before them! In fact there are cave paintings in Spain dating back 17,00 years ago depicting people wearing footwear. But there is also anthropological evidence suggesting that they could have existed anywhere up to 40,000 years ago. As the thickness of bone in the toes of humans began to diminish around this time, leading to scientific speculation that this is the time our ancestors began adopting footwear.

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The Ancient

Egyptians From 3150 BC

For most of the ancient Egyptian lifespan shoes were never of any great importance. But because the ancient Egyptian civilization spanned such a large time period shoes did eventually have a purpose as the terrain started to change. But initial hieroglyphics showed Pharos to workers all barefoot.

At around 1500 BC something changed which lead to the wealthy starting to wear sandals, and then eventually most people. Excluding the very poor. This is the first point in history where shoemakers were established.

They created different styles of footwear for different purposes, especially for workers or those in the rougher territory, where the front of the sandal was upturned to protect the toes.

Egyptians are thought to have favoured the sandal and not to have ever covered the foot. They were considered as a luxury though, and if you could afford them they were treasured. Often travelers would carry their shoes on journeys and only put them back on once they had reached their destination so as not to wear them out or draw attention to themselves. Quite different to how we treat the modern day equivilant; the flip flop.

The privileged would even embellish their footwear with precious stones woven in the soles. Sandals were often made of braided papyrus leaves, which were fastened to a bark, wood, or leather sole on both sides of the ankle and between the first and second toes.

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A Pharaoh and their Shoes Tutankhamen’s tomb contained 93 pairs of shoes. They also included pictures of their enemies marked on the soles, believing that the wearer could tread on them even in their sleep. These are ideas that have evolved throughout the years. See chapter on ‘The symbol’. Most of the 93 pairs are plain, but several are ornately decorated.

The decorations either depict chaos in the form of images of bound prisoners, or the maintenance of cosmic balance through flower and vegitation motifs.

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Tutankhamun’s sandals decorated with bound prisoners. The sandals are lavishly decorated and were included in the collection found in his tomb.

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The Ancient

Greeks

From 800 BC Initially most Ancient Greeks went barefoot, even though there were a variety of different styles of shoes available.

The Spartans, who were known for their warrior instincts, chose not to wear shoes, believing it displayed their strength. By 146 BC shoemaking became a developed craft ,and so shoes became more comfortable, and were used for outdoor use only. Archeologists know the Ancient Greeks only wore shoes outside by studying the severe wear and tear on steps outside palaces and temples, and the minimal wear on the steps inside.

Much like the generations before them, the Ancient Greeks continued to use materials such as Leather and wood to construct their shoes, as well as cloth and even felt. They also began to experiment with the aesthetics of shoes by dying the materials, and even named certain styles of footwear, often taking the name from the place of origin, or the person who made it fashionable.

An image of an Ancient Greek Shoe making workshop portrayed on a pottery vase.

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Pedila

Meaning ‘sole’.

The Ancient Greek Pedila was a basic sandal which would later be the basis of many of their other shoe developments.

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Shoes and Entertainment During the fifth century BC, Ancient Greek footwear became a part of their culture. Often extravagant shoe styles were used for entertainment purposes. The dramatist Aeschylus wished his tragic heroes to appear larger than life, he required actors in his plays to wear shoes with thick cork soles. Greek entertainers sometimes wore shoes containing castanets, and musicians donned accordion shoes that were played by applying foot pressure.

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The Ancient

Romans From 753 BC

The ancient Romans were one of the first people in recorded history to develop an extensive range of footwear. The Ancient Greeks and Egyptians did latterly use shoes more, but it was not essential to their lives because they lived in such warm climates.

But the more erratic climate on the Italian peninsula, home to the Romans, made wearing sandals or going barefoot uncomfortable. Roman shoemakers made light sandals for indoor wear, to heavy boots for military use or for travel to colder climates. Leather was the primary material in the footwear craft, and the ancient Romans were known for their skills at making quality leather from cow hide.

Though the basic types of footwear remained the same during Roman history, the styles did change over time.

Footwear styles before and during the Roman Republic (509– 27 B.C.E. ) were plain, with little ornament, expressing the simplicity and frugality of the early Romans. With the rise of the Roman Empire after 27 B.C.E. which saw the Roman people grow in wealth and power, footwear styles became more ornate and decorative. Wealthy people especially, often wore shoes that had gold trim or ornaments, metal buckles, embroidery, or jewels on them.

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People considered very respectable in the community wore shoes at all times and only removed them for important feasts, when slaves would perform elaborate feet washing rituals on them

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Shoe remains that have been discovered tell us that they used metals in the design.

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The most commonly worn types of footwear at this time were either boots of sandals. The boots consisted of a leather sole and long leather bands wrapped around the wearer’s feet and legs. However they did not cover the entire leg or foot. Small squares of skin were still visible suggesting that shoemakers were adapting the design for comfort, so the foot could breathe.

Although footwear advanced rapidly during Roman rule, there was still no distinguishable traits between men and womens footwear. Only the males, particularly soldiers wore boots. Styles were used to distinguish classes.

For example, boots worn by older men, were not to be worn by young men. Slaves were never permitted to wear shoes at all, whereas criminals wore shoes unlike anything worn by any other citizen. They wore heavy wooden shoes so they could not escape easily. People considered very respectable in the community wore shoes at all times and only removed them for important feasts, when slaves would perform elaborate feet washing rituals on them.

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Measuring of Shoes Shoes gain so much of our attention these days. It is extraordinary to believe that the British shoe measurement system was established in the 14th century. It was king Edward II in 1324 that created today’s sizing system. The King’s system is based on the size of a barleycorn. Previous to this the Romans had used barleycorns as a unit of measurement, and the king later agreed that is was a logical method..The king’s foot measured 36 barleycorns (placed end to end) and so his foot was labelled a size 12. Smaller sizes were graded down by 1/3 of an inch (one barleycorn).

But today feet sizes are forever on the increase so the shoe scale has been extended.

The shoe sizing system starts at 0 in Britain and then increases 1/3 inch for whole sizes and 1/6 inch for half sizes. A child’s size zero equals one hand ( a hand equals 4 inches), from then on size 1 to 13 ½ (end of child sizes) the length increases by one corn (1/3 inch) This system measures the shoe not the foot. One additional corn would be added to the size of the foot to establish a realistic shoe size. All these rules apply to the length of the shoe. Shoe sizes today are manufactured in such large quantities that they are usually only made in standard sized widths. Unless a more sophisticated shoe manufacturer or retailer is sort most footwear today is made to a size ‘F’ width fitting. Different styles of shoes fit differently across the width of the shoe. Narrower shoes are available, marked E, EX, or E+, or wider ones labelled G, H, GX, FX, or F+.

South Africa, the Indian subcontinent, and British West Indies have also adopted this method of measurement.

How to

Measure for Shoes 25

26

26

27

The foot length is measured as the distance between two parallel lines that are perpendicular to the foot and in contact with the most prominent toe and the most prominent part of the heel.To measure the foot size accurately and then be able to establish the shoe size you must stand barefoot with your full weight equally distributed on both feet.

It is quite common to find that the left and right feet differ in size, but in a mass produced industry it is advised to sort the shoe size of the larger foot.

28

28

4

5

22.4 cm

23.3 cm

8

9

25.9 cm

26.7 cm

6

7

24.1 cm

25 cm

10

11

27.5 cm

28.4 cm

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30

The

Edwin Simpson

Shoe Sizing System

31

United States of America Up until 1890 US used the British Sizing system. Now they are using the Edwin Simpson shoe sizing system. His system is also based on 1/3 inch difference between whole sizes and 1/6 inch difference between half sizes, however he also took into consideration the length, waist, ball width, heel and instep measurements in his design. Considering these dimensions meant that as the shoe size increased all other measurements would increase in relation. In the US today, there are many variations of this system in use.

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Europe 32

Used in France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Russia, Turkey, and many other continental countries.

This system is one of very few that uses the same scale of measurements for both men, women, and children. The measurement of the shoe size is called the Paris point. Paris point (shoe size) = 他 x (foot length in cm + 1.5cm). They start at size 10 for newborns. Adult sizes are in the 30s and men are around 45 to 50.

Mondopoint This is based on the length and the width of the shoes in millimetres. For examples, 280/95 means the foot is 280mm long, with a width of 95mm.

Specialist sport footwear manufacturers, NATO, Military organisations, and Korea use this system.

With a likelihood of other countries adopting the system because of its ease of use.

A, B, C, D, E, EE, EEE, EEEE, F, G Asia There are differences between men, women and children’s (under 12s) shoe sizes. The foot length is measured in centimetres and increases every 5mm. The width is standardised by alphabetical markers, (A, B, C, D, E, EE, EEE, EEEE, F, G) There are geographical changes in this system, the largest width of shoe in china is caped at EEEE, but, in Japan it is F.

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Shoe Size 34

Conversions

Shoe sizes today are often marked on the outer or inner sole with the size. However more commonly shoes are marked with multiple shoe sizes to allow international shoppers to see at a glance size equivalants without any complicated conversion process. Typical labelling includes UK, EU and US size equivalents. This opens up more possibilities for manufactures and the sale of shoes across the globe.

There are several other factors to consider when discussing shoe sizing. Systems can never be fully regulated, and even with today’s manufacturing methods it would be foolish to assume shoes under each system always measure the same. Although they follow the same principles, geography plays a huge rule in variation. Shoes for example in France and Germany may differ quite considerable even though they claim to be European shoe sizes.

Most of these systems have limitations, and quite often people wear shoes that are not the correct fit for them, because after all everyone is different and it is quite a challenge to try and standardize such measurments. Some manufacturers also take into consideration a small percentage of growth for childrens shoe ranges which allows room for the childs feet to grow. It also spreads out the expense for parents as they can go longer before upgrading their childs shoes.

Examples of how shoe sizes are displayed on shoe labels.

Conversions displayed on the shoe enable manufactures to trade internationally, and shoppers to buy worldwide.

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8 41 UK 8 / EURO 41

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36

Record for Largest Shoes Worn Robert Wadlow born 22nd February 1918 and died 15th July 1940 aged just 22. Wadlow wore a US size 37 (47cm or 18 ½ in long) he measured 8ft 11.1in tall. There is a direct correlation between the height of a person, and their shoe size. Usually, the taller they are the bigger the shoe size.

Although many people dispute whether Wadlow really is the tallest man that has ever lived because of his medical condition, which meant he generated higher amounts of growth hormone. But no one can dispute that he wore the largest shoes!

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Wadlow’s shoes have been kept and are on display in his home town Alton, Illinios.

sandals

clogs

38

smart flats

casual

sport

heels

boots

slippers

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Shoe Types As well as categorising shoes by size, there are also many types of shoes that can be placed into groups. They can be categorised based on their shape, size, material and use. Consumers can then easily identify them.

In today’s world as Internet shopping is growing in popularity, sellers utilizes the use of categories to display the range of shoes that they sell. As there are vast styles of shoes it makes sense to create a sorting system.

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Kitten Heel 1 A kitten heel is usually 1.5 inches or less and is set in slightly from the back of the shoe.

French Heel 2 40

Shoes with a French heel are of medium height and the shape of the heel is curved, somewhat chunkier than a Kitten heel. It was influenced by King Louis XIV of France who had high-heel shoes especially designed for him in order to increase the height of his 5ft 3 inch frame.

Stiletto 3 Stilettos (or Spiked Heels) refer to the type of high heel which is pointy and thin.

Platform 4 This refers to the sole of the shoe and not the heel.

Platform shoes are thick soles sitting under the front part of the foot.

Flatform 5 A strange hybrid between a ballet pump and a high platform heel.

Ankle Strap 5 An ankle strap shoe has a single or multiple strap that fastens around the ankle. Straps can also include laces, ribbons and other material which wrap around the lower part of the leg.

Wedge Heel 6 The heel extends from the back of the shoe to right under the foot, running in a wedge shape from back to front. Not all wedges have high heels. Some are low to medium height.

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2

3

4

5

6

7

42

8

42

9

10

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12

Mule 7 A mule is a slip on, backless shoe. The front of the toe is covered, as in a normal shoe, but the back is open.

T-bar 8 A full shoe with a strap in the shape of a “T� across the front of the foot.

Slingbacks 9 Instead of a closed back they have a strap which connects the sides and back to the front of the shoe.

Peep-toe 9 A peep-toe shoe has an opening at the tip of the toes that shows part of the toes but not the whole toe line.

Mary-Jane 10 Distinguishable by its rounded toe and the single or double strap that crosses the middle top of the foot.

Sandals 11 Sandals are shoes with open toes and backs and have single or multiple straps for fastening. Sandals vary greatly depending on the type and material of straps and the height of heels.

Ballet Flat 12 A Ballet Flat is a flat-soled, enclosed shoe (pump), almost like a slipper. These shoes are easy to slip on as they are low-cut and leave the top of the foot exposed.

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Manufacturing in Britain 46

At the turn of the 20th century the shoe making industry was booming in Britain. The majority of footwear manufacture was carried out in the midlands and the northern part of England. Even today, since the shoe making industry has declined in England there is still one town that claims to be at the heart of the country’s ‘Shoe and Boot making’ heritage. If it was not for the production of shoes taking place here, the population would not be what it is today in Northampton. Many came and settled here because of the work available all those years ago.

But why did Northampton have such a roaring success in the manufacturing of shoes you may ask? Well it was in large part due to its location and easy links to London.

From the early 1800’s shoe production here was still conducted by skilled hand-craftsman or ‘stitchmen’.

In today’s terms it was a ‘cottage industry’ with the work being carried out at home. In 1851 boot and shoe making was the third largest source of manufacturing employment in Great Britain. There was 274,451 craftsman as well as 94,175 ‘shoemakers’ wives’ (who often assisted in the making of the product). Eight percent or 17, 204 workers of the total were found in the small town of Northampton. Easy links to London was crucial for the industries growth in Northampton, and the surrounding county of Northampshire. As manufacturing increased, London was Northampton’s main market for export, as well as the British army and Navy.

Cordwainer

makes shoes only from leather

Shoe-maker

makes shoes from anything.

Cobbler repairs shoes

As well as stitchmen there were two other categories of shoe making. Manufacturing premises began to appear, where between 20 and 200 hundred workers would be employed to meet demand. Workhouses would utilize groups of workers by directing different groups to carry out singular processes. Several people would cut the material, others would stitch the soles, more would attach the soles, etc. The third category of shoe making, was not really making shoes at all. Instead it was the re-using or recycling of shoe parts, where skilled craftsmen would construct shoes out of old parts or simply mend old shoes altogether. Many villages would have someone that could perform these tasks. But it was the workhouses that were moving closer to mass production and further away from their country cobbler roots, and so footwear became more affordable for the local communities, as excess shoes were in abundance.

A commemorative statue of a Cordwainer which can be seen on Watling Street, London. Where leather shoemakers were known to live.

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Above: Barret Shoe Works was also used for the production of RAF bomber components during WW2.

Even today Northampton still prides itself with the title of Boot and Shoe making captial of England. The town holds an extensive catalogue of images (L + R) taken at the peek of production as well as an informative shoe museum.

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1851 and Northampton was at the epicenter of the shoe production in Britain, and the growth of the industry was faster here than anywhere else. As more factories opened more workers were needed, so people began to travel to Northampton and settled when they found work in the factories, in fact a quarter of the population of Northampton in 1841 had been born outside the county.

The shoe factories had a great physical effect on the town, changing its aesthetics. The fabric of the streets were made up of a run of terraced brick houses, then a small factory, then more houses and another factory, repeated over and over across many streets. Machines were introduced into these factories from the 1850s and from 1857 they were in wide spread use. The introduction of these machines meant more workers were needed to pick up the pace of cutting materials and fitting. Workers numbers were at their highest from 1900 to 1950, but the success of this industry was to come to an end in the last two decades of that century.

United Kingdom

50

1980 was the beginning of the end. By 2001 99% of shoe sales were made from imported shoes. New technologies including the introduction of CAD/ CAM had no positive lasting impact on the industry in the UK. There are many factors written about the down fall. Was fashion moving too quickly? Was it because of the big brand names such as Nike? But really in the economic climate we live in today it really came down to cost of production.

China Moving production to the Far East, in particular China, was an economic decision. There have been many arguments formed in response to shoe manufacturing moving to the Far East. The British people would much prefer to buy products made in Britain. However it makes financial sense for manufacturers to source production of their shoes elsewhere. But this is not reflected in the price of shoes sold on the high street. Take for instance the closure of Clarkes shoe factory in Illminster.

The price of their footwear actually increased when they made the move, and customers noticed the quality dramatically decrease and the fit of the shoes that Clarks is renowned for, was lost, too their detriment.

The British Footwear Association (BFA) is keen to support manufacturers in Britain opposed to moving abroad. They also provide the link between the nations shoemakers and the Government. In fact there is a new initiative for footwear manufacturers in Britain to use the ‘Made in Britain’ logo as recognition.

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Shoes during the War The First World War, 1914 till 1918, and the Second World War 1939 till 1945 had a dramatic effect on the shoe making industry in Britain. It often halted the manufacturing process due to lack of resources. Workmen were called to fight in these years so the number of women in the factories increased, as they had to take over the working roles of men. The orders for military footwear took priority over civilian shoes, whatever materials could be obtained went towards the production of military boots. Factories that had little to no business were often shut down and the government arranged a ‘concentration scheme’ where some factories that were hard hit during the war years were closed and vacated and were instead used for wartime production. ‘The Barrett works’, in Northampton was where RAF bomber components were manufactured.

The war also affected the style the shoes had at this time, in particular women’s shoes were becoming similar to men’s. Because of the work that they were now required to do, comfort was paramount, and there were very few men around to impress with the latest shoe trends, so fashion was not an issue. Instead women were known to embellish old shoes for special occasions, using faux jewels and buckles to create a different look. New shoes that were produced were made with a rubber sole not leather to save resources, because it was not known how long they had to last. Shoemakers often reverted back to their ‘cobbler’ heritage where they recycled or repaired shoes that once upon a time would have been binned, but they had to ‘make do and mend’

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An example of a Clothing Coupon Book from rationing in England during world war two.

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In 1943 each individual would receive 36 coupons, which had to provide clothing for the entire year. Shoes cost 7 coupons for men, 5 for women, and 3 for children, so the utmost care had to be taken to look after these expensive items. The government was known for the ‘mend and make do’ slogan. Shoes were like a form of tender and civilians often used shoes when bartering. When times got harder over the war years, parents would often cut out the front part of their children’s shoes as not to restrict their growth.

Shoe shortages became so dire that one weekly paper published a letter from a concerned reader, highlighting the possibility to go barefoot in the summer months.

That it would cause less damage to your feet than ill-fitting shoes, i.e corns, bunions, blisters and chilblain.

The Making of the

Shoe

56

A shoe last (from the old English word ‘laest’ meaning footprint) is a physical form that is used to represent the shape and dimensions of different shoe sizes.

Multiple Lasts would need to be made to produce a range of sizes of one particular shoe style. They also differ according to style. For instance a Last to form brogue shoes is not the same Last that would be used in the production of a stiletto, because they would differ in heel height and therefore the weight of the wearer is distributed differently on the foot.

Lasts used to be the main expense of a shoemaker many centuries ago. Traditionally back then lasts were made of hardwoods, such as Maple or Beech and shoemakers would have to invest a lot of their own time in chiseling out the last from a block of this wood. Factories would have lasts cast in iron. But today they are made of high-density plastics, which are 100% recyclable. Our ancestors would probably have a better fitting shoe as they were often made to measure. In today’s mass production market the proportions of the foot are only one part of making a last, production methods are also taken into consideration because of the economic effect it could have on the company. It is also widely known that the average person has different sized left and right feet, but lasts and the shoes made from them are made in a standard sized pair.

Original wooden lasts, used in the making of leather shoes.

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Did you know the word ‘Tenterhooks’ comes from the process of shoemaking A tenter is a frame on which cloth is stretched during manufacture, so that it may dry evenly. The frame is outfitted with sharp hooks or bent nails that hold the cloth stretched. These hooks, are known as tenterhooks. Tenterhook is more commonly used today in the figurative expression on tenterhooks, meaning ‘in a state of uneasy suspense or painful anxiety’.

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Once the lasts are made, the making of the shoe can begin. The pattern maker cuts out the shoes upper, and lining, and bevels the edges to ensure a good fit, and then sews the pieces together. Next he constructs a toe box, adds the counter (a stiffener for the shoes back) and soaks the leather so it will easily conform to the lines of the last. A master craftsman carefully positions the upper on the last, tautly stretching it before nailing it tightly in place. The upper dries on the last before the sole and heel can be attached. In the final steps, finishers trim the welt, pare the heel, burnishes the sole and add the insole lining Last but not least, the shoe is polished and buffed and ready to wear.. The upper of a shoe consists of all parts or sections of the shoe above the sole. These are attached by stitches or more likely moulded to become a single unit then the insole and outsole are attached. The upper of the shoe consists of the vamp (or front of the shoe), the quarters (i.e. the sides and back of the shoe), and the linings.

Leather: This is the hide or skin from an animal that has been put through a process called tanning.

Coated Leather: This is one of the processes of treating leather; basically the leather is coated with one of a variety of products for the desired look.

Textile: This is one of the symbols vegans, vegetarians and eco-friendly consumers look for because it means all natural or man made materials are used for the construction.

Other Materials: This is manmade materials and usually refer to the sole of the shoe.

Uppers are made in a variety of different materials, both natural and synthetic. Leather became the obvious choice because it allows air to pass through, to and from the skin pores (breath) keeping feet at a constant temperature. The pliable properties of animal skins mould to the foot beneath. Synthetics used as uppers display elastic properties, which mean they never quite adjusts to the foot shape in the same way as natural leather. Synthetics are cheaper to mass-produce and are now found in most footwear. Synthetic surfaces provide waterproofing and most leather shoes today have synthetic components.

An alternative shoe cover is cotton corduroy woven fabric which provide lightweight breathable surfaces.

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The Anatomy of the Shoe

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Quarter 4

Insole lining 3

Top Line (Throat) 8

Counter 1 Vamp 9

Heel 2 Toe Box 7

Shank 5 Welt 10

Sole 6

Counter 1

Sole 6

The counter of a shoe sits behind the heel of the foot, and is used to stiffen the back part of the shoe, and to give it structure.

This is the outer most sole of the shoe, which is directly exposed to abrasion and wear. Traditionally made from a variety of materials, the outsole is constructed in different thickness and degrees of flexibility. Ideal soling materials must be waterproof, durable and possess a coefficient of friction high enough to prevent slipping.

Heel 2 The heel is the raised component under the rear of the shoe. Heels consist of a variety of shapes, heights, and materials and are made of a series of raised platforms or a hollowed section. The part of the heel next to sole is usually shaped to fit the heel; this is called the heel seat or heel base.

Insole lining 3 A layer of material shaped to the bottom of the last and sandwiched between the outsole (and midsole) and the sole of the foot inside the shoe. The insole covers the join between the upper and the sole in most methods of construction and provides attachment for the upper, toe box linings and welting.

Quarter

4

The quarter is part of a shoe’s upper, that covers the sides and the back of the foot. In some shoe styles, the quarter is a separate piece that is sewn to the vamp of a shoe.

Toe Box 7 The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes.

Top Line (Throat) 8 The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter i.e. throatline. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.

Vamp 9 The vamp covers the top (dorsum) of the foot (includes the tongue piece) and superior aspects over the toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece creating a decorative pattern.

Shank 5

Welt 10

The shank bridges between the heel breast and the ball tread. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The contour of the shank is determined by heel height.

The strip of material, which joins the upper to the sole. Some shoes use an imitation welt stitched around the top flat edge of the sole for decorative purposes, but it is not a functional part of the shoe.

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An Expensive

Luxury

Traditionally shoes were an expensive luxury and as such we would only have a few pairs. Even up to 50 years ago you would probably have one sturdy, hard wearing pair of footwear that you would wear for the majority of the time and then perhaps one or two pairs for more formal occasions. But the world today is a different matter, shoes are mass produced and although they are not made to the same manufacturing standards or with the same quality materials they are relatively cheap in comparison, so we can afford to have many more pairs! But because of this there tends to be large quantities of waste as styles go out of fashion as soon as they come in. Although I have written with some certainty that shoes are in our lives as a definite and not so much as a luxury but a necessity, unfortunately this is not the case across the whole world.

In fact some parts of Africa and the Far East are without the benefits of footwear that the majority of the West have. Buying shoes in quantities is ideal for the suppliers and the economy, but as with many things it is to the detriment of the environment.

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Have you ever

considered

Reducing Buy good quality shoes to start with, and make sure you try them on in the shop.

Pick shoes that you’ll wear for years instead of fashion ones that will fall apart.

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Recycling

Reusing

Many charity clothes bins often accept battered old shoes- they’re broken down and the part recycled as appropriate.

Charity shops might be willing to accept them for the ‘rag man’ too.

If they can be reused, let someone else reuse them as shoes, give them to charity shoe or organization that takes them for distribution over seas.

If you are interested in donating shoes, then shoe banks are often found in towns, primarily with Clothes banks which are ususally based at supermarkets. Be sure to tie the shoelaces together of a pair, so they do not get separated, otherwise they are rendered useless and will be thrown away.

Other shoes that are in good condition can be taken straight to your local charity shop. Charities like Oxfam, Save The Children, Barnado’s, Age Concern and Cancer Research have chains of high street shops.

There are many shoe charities set up because of the short fall of footwear in developing countries. An American based organization called Soles4Souls hit the headlines after the 2004 Tsunami that hit South East Asia, and have donated over 12,000,000 pairs of shoes and are currently donating one pair of shoe every 7 seconds.

Without shoes, people in these places are at tremendous risk of parasitic diseases. In fact these diseases affect 1.4 billion people and this could quite easily be stopped from happening by wearing shoes. Not wearing shoes also has a social impact on children in these countries.

Children that are trying to improve their life and the lives of their family are often refused education, because it is mandatory to wear shoes to school. If you do not have shoes, you do not go to school.

But the serious reality is that people do actually die because they do not wear shoes. The skin on the foot becomes tough as the person walks barefoot and cracks in the skins surface occur, these are susceptible to disease picked up through walking in sewer trenches or rummaging in rubbish dumps for food. Puncture wounds, cuts, scrapes and burns are also a major cause for concern for these people. Amputations are fairly commonplace.

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Over 300 Million children worldwide are without shoes, Soles 4 Soles works in disaster areas that are hit badly by the short fall of shoes

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Business Companies are beginning to take a step back and looking at their environmental impact that the mass production of their shoe products is having.

In particular Nike began the ‘Nike reuse a shoe’ campaign. Their campaign encourages people to donate their old worn out shoes, combined with the waste material that is produced in Nikes production process and use it to create ‘Nike Grind’ a range of different substances that can be used as floor surfaces. They separate the shoes into three parts, the fabric upper that makes up the Nike Grind Fibre that is used as indoor synthetic courts and woodcourts, midsole that makes Nike Grind Foam that goes toward surfacing outdoor basketball and tennis courts, and the outer sole that produces Nike Grid rubber that is used in the production of track surfacing, playgrounds, and interlocking gym flooring tiles. Nike’s campaign only accepts athletic shoes, and are collected across their retail outlets.

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Not only are Nike benifiting the Environment by this scheme but they are also creating hype about their product and therefore strengthening their brand. Although there are collection bins dotted around the UK, it seems to have been a greater success in the USA. This is probably due to the fact the re-cycling process happens there. Althought it could be called into question whether this venture is really eco friendly with the amount of transport that is needed to ship shoes to the recycling centre.

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swapmyshoes.co.uk THE ONLINE SWAPPING SOLUTION

Introducing the Art of

Shoe Swapping Romy Kate Tilbury 22, is a a marketing graduate, who also studied events management in the first two years of her degree. She lives in Shropshire, England, and considers rural life to be a big influence on her life, but perhaps not an obvious link with her interest in fashion. She would consider herself a devoted shoe lover but has a key eye for fashion and a desire to succeed! She has a strong business influence, is driven and has a motivated attitude passed on from her successful parents, not just in businees but in life in general!

She describes her current job as a marketing and communications assistant for a boiler and utilities company as boring, but realises her access to the capital and business knowlegde is vital to her future plans. ‘I guess you could say I am a sponge at the moment, absorbing any key information, I regard necessary for business, marketing , networking and people skills in general!’

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Describe the first pair of shoes you can remember wearing?

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The first shoes I probably remember wearing were my red wellies at around 2 years old, which went everywhere with me, not glamorous I know, but a country girl at heart! The ones I distinctly remember being proud of were a pair of school shoes, again not exciting, however these were part of a princess collection, and at the bottom of them in the sole there was a small key locked away in a secret compartment, very exciting at the age of 7/8. It definitely sold them to me!!! It wasn’t the wearing that I remember but the buying and choosing of the shoes, probably something that most women can relate to!! I believe the decision process is a vital element when purchasing shoes, and therefore it is an area I have considered for swapmyshoes.

Describe your favorite pair of shoes?

To be perfectly honest I don’t have a favourite pair, I have a pair I wear to work which are stylish yet practical, but I wouldn’t say they were amazing! This is where swapmyshoes originates from, a yearning for that perfect pair! My ideal pair of shoes would be ultra comfortable, but drop dead gorgeous, the kind that everybody comments on, and unfortunately I haven’t found that pair yet! Something I look forward to experiencing through swapmyshoes.

Apart from providing comfort and protection to your feet, what else do you think shoes bring to your life and perhaps other peoples too?

For me shoes are an achievement, my connotation for shoes is money, style, fashion conscious and glamour. Having completed university last year, spending money on what I would call a luxury has not been possible, so now I have an income it is a luxury I may consider, although starting a business is now my spending priority. I am striving to reach that point where I may purchase the dream shoes, and fill my future walk in wardrobe!

Do you have a collection of shoes, or are you quite articulate about ones you keep?

Shoes for me have been a necessity, bargain, or a pure love at an affordable price. I have a collection, but nowhere near as large as most women; in fact my boyfriend may have similar if not more than me.

I suppose you could question my business choice, however I seem to have gained this love for fashion, having once considered a fashion degree and quickly backing out, I think my love for the industry was always going to remerge at some point, along with my creative side, so I’m living this dream now!

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Manifesto

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Swapmyshoes’ intentions is to build an online community of like minded individuals, as well as attracting many others, to create an area of desire and excitement, and achievement, through the act of sale/purchase and winning through swapping!

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“After leaving University in April 2010, I had an urge to begin another project having just completed a dissertation and being left with the urge to start another (not academic of course!). It began with the need to find comfortable heels, and realizing there must be a comfortable heel out there. I began researching shoes, companies, manufacturers, brands, and was unsuccessful. I decided I had to be the one to crack the problem every woman comes across! It continued until I realized the capital needed to achieve this, and it soon became a reality this possibly was a little pricy! Swapmyshoes was an idea, which sprang into my head following my frustration, and I immediately ran with, creating a small business plan and discussing the idea with my mother.�

The Process

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1 2

3 4 5

6 7 8

9

Access swapmyshoes Register (details include signing up with a username and password and card details) Agree to terms and conditions Upload an item Choose visual level (high level is higher uploading value, smaller visual level will be smaller price) Categories by size, style, brand, colour Choose the option to swap/sell or both Upload brief description, pictures, and as a bonus a brief video Wait for response.

A user may search for a specific pair or browse, categories may be selected to narrow searches and aid a decision. Once a pair is decided upon a user can contact a fellow user and negotiate a swap.

Other users may see the interest, but will not see conversations between individual users regarding swaps. Credits are used as virtual money, and will aid the process. Swaps may contain monetary deals, however this is between the users, and must be agreed before any deals are complete. Swapmyshoes will monitor all deals, however it is not the fault of swapmyshoes to determine deals, but is up to the users to determine. To complete any transaction, feedback must be left by all users; this will then be posted on users profiles to distinguish safe transactions, and good users.

What is your advantage over other swapping websites that include shoe swapping?

Swapmyshoes is a personal, reliable, friendly online community, with an eye for design, fashion and style, but open to all! The site is focused at one product therefore creating a personal easy approach to shopping.

What do you consider the benefits to the environment with this idea?

Recycling is a hot topic, and definitely a process needed to be regarded as important by all, so why not extend it to your wardrobes!

How do you evaluate the worth of a second hand pair of shoes?

Swapmyshoes is for unworn, brand new, second hand, or never worn shoes. Users are asked to determine the condition of the shoe as a condition they see fit for sale/swap. In other words only sell if you would buy yourself. It is expected that it will attract women who buy shoes and wear once to perhaps a wedding and never again, or who have bought and never worn!

Why do you think that people want to swap shoes?

I believe women, and men impulse buy. I believe every woman has a pair of shoes they’ve never worn or worn once sat in a wardrobe, so now more than ever make some use out of them or make some money, clear some storage. By creating an online community the process is kept safe and reliable. However the process is cheap and exciting.

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Assumptions

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“ I remember sitting in detention

sophomore year with this really cute girl and I remember asking her what she liked about certain guys. She said the first thing she looked at was a guys shoes. That statement changed my life forever.

Back then it was all about having clean gym shoes; that’s why black guys always have white shoes.

Having a new pair of shoes basically told the girl ‘I have a job and I can afford to take you to the movies” 83

Kanye West.

Upper & Lower Class There is a popular saying that you can always judge someone by the shoes that they are wearing. Shoes are supposed to be representative of the wearer, and if their shoes are ill kept than that is the type of person they are considered to be.

When shoes were less affordable, pre 1950s, you could quite often distinguish someone’s class by the shoes that they wore. Lower or working class were seen in wellused footwear, often scruffy or dirty in appearance, but practical. In contrast, high classes, who could afford to keep up with fashions, and did not have a physical, labour intensive job would be wearing clean, new looking presentable shoes. They would even have people to clean and polish them.

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Not only did lower classes have less priviledges when it came to footwear, it was also a common job, especially for young boys to work in towns shining peoples shoes on the side of the street, or in parlors such as the one in this photograph, dated 1908

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Throughout history fashions have always been associated with the higher classes. They would sport footwear with exaggerated features, to distinguish them for the lower classes. Back in the fourteenth century it was royalty that could be recognised by their footwear, with the introduction of the Crackow, a pointed shoe. The pointier the shoe toe the more important the wearer was supposed to be, even to the stage where the point was exaggerated to such an extent that it got so long they included a chain that attached the toes to the knee to stop the men from falling over. Younger men were also known to fill the insides of the points with wool, cloth, and moss to keep them erect.

But then Edward III (1327 to 1377) implemented a system of rules to inform who was entitled to wear these shoes, one of which meant that anyone that earned less that forty pounds a year were not allowed to wear them.

More than anything it was impractical for the working class. The Crackow is obviously no longer in fashion but it could be suggested that some shoes harp back to the 14th century, for example the ‘winkle-pickers’ from the 60s, had a very elongated point. What is this now saying about the wearer?

Clergymen and scholars were

forbidden to wear them because of the suggested phallic shape. It is

thought this is why the size of the

shoe grew and grew as men wanted to boast about how large their ‘ego’ was, whether true or not, it seemed a constant rivalry.

Since around the seventeenth century buckles were an indication of wealth, high class, and sophisticated taste.

As well as a fastening to the shoe, they also became singular parts that could be moved from one pair of shoes to another, much like a piece of jewellery. They were often made of silver with precious jewels set into them, which became poplar with women by the eighteenth century.

Buckles still exist today, for aesthetics and as a form of fastening, but there are no connotations of class and wealth anymore.

Shoe Fetish So we’ve established that fashion has always played a large role in our assumptions of people, but there are those that go far and beyond the expected to provoke a reaction that we often judge. For example shoe fetishes, where there is an attribution of attractive sexual qualities to shoes and footwear in general. Shoes with exaggerated heels, that distort the way a person walks, and made from rubber or PVC are particularly popular among fetishists.

But it is because of such media coverage of the case of Jerry Brudos known as the ‘Shoe Fetish Slayer’ that causes the public to make assumptions of all shoe fetishists.

He amputated his female victims feet to then dress them in his collection of ladies shoes.

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Just as there was indications of wealth there was some of poverty as well. The clog is never very popular when it comes to fashion and style, but they were an affordable solution as footwear for the poor. The manufacturing is much the same today as it was six hundred years ago, the style has had a little modification to appeal to more people. The clog either consists of a block of wood with the foot shape hollowed out, or a more modern variation where of a solid wooden sole with an upper attached made in another material, such as leather or rubber.

As already mentioned there was a shortage of shoes in WW2, when manufacturing was halted because of the lack of materials. The government tried to encourage people to wear clogs as an affordable alternative, and made from a material that was available to shoemakers. But it was in vain, as the association with the poor was too great, and no one wanted to be seen wearing them. In design terms, the modern day ‘croc’ is the closest shape of footwear to the clog. Although they are similarly named, they are actually made from a material called Proprietary Closed Cell Resin (PCCR) which is neither plastic nor rubber. PCCR is closed cell in nature and anti-microbial, which virtually eliminates odor. Although there are no longer any affiliated ideas attributed to this style of shoe, people still have an opinion on them, and often pre-judge.

But today is a different matter; there are no direct links like there once were. It could be said that people who can afford designer footwear are obviously wealthier, but the manufacturing process of today means it is easier for styles to be copied and affordable to all, would you be able to tell a copy from an original? What would this say about the person, would you assume the worst?

How to identify fake designer shoes from real ones 1.

Check the name on the shoe. People who sell fake shoes know that the human eye can play tricks on an individual. Quite often the spelling is wrong.

2.

Familiarize yourself with shoe logos. A shoe logo is something that is easy to change and it can be very difficult to tell the actual logo from a fraudulent one.

3. Learn where certain shoes are made, many times people who sell fake shoes will forget to remove a ‘made in…’ tag from a shoe.

4. Look for shoddy workmanship, usually bad or dropped stitching is a true give away.

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Etiquette

Britain & traditional shoe etiquette

1. ‘No browns after six’.

Shoes for formal occasions should normally be black.

(However rules have been relaxed over the years and since the introduction of Italian fashion of wearing brown shoes for almost any occasion.)

2.

Good quality, classic leather shoes should never be worn two days running, they need time to dry and air.

3.

Always wear shoes with a thick rubber sole on rainy days and days in the country.

4.

Make sure your belt and shoes match 94

5.

No socks to be worn with sandals.

Shoes are not just about fashion and practicality there are also rules to

wearing shoes. Traditionally people

were more respectable to these ideas but as time goes on they have faded away. They also differ all around the world, what might be polite in one place is not the case in another.

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Shoes off, please

Take your shoes off, or leave them on when going into someone’s home? It is a largely debated subject. In many cultures it is always expected of an individual to remove their shoes before entering a house. Japan, Thailand, Finland, and many others believe it is disrespectful to the host by leaving them on..Some have even suggested that it is a class issue, that perhaps the wealthier are more house-proud and are therefore more likely to ask visitors to remove their shoes.

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Cons of shoes off Some feel it is rude to put their guests in an uncomfortable position by asking them to remove their footwear. The feeling of nakedness is often described, even though they are in a home environment, it isn’t their home, and still need to appear presentable. Although there is a hygiene issue by wearing shoes indoors, you could also argue there is one with not wearing shoes indoors.

Especially in the summer months wear socks and shoes are substituted for just sandals and feet sweat. It is not hospitable to embarrass your guests this way. There are also formal house party situations, where invitees have chosen their outfit in accordance with shoes, if they are asked to remove them at the door it can have a dramatic effect of your guest’s confidence.

This debate was also raised in an episode of the very popular Sex and the City TV series, when the main character, Carrie Bradshaw attending a party at an old friends apartment, where she lived with her children, and was asked to take off her shoes. Although Carrie felt uncomfortable with the situation, and the fact that it meant she appeared shorter than she would have like she obliged for the old friend’s feelings. But when she went to put on her shoes to leave they had been taken. The hostess offered to replace the shoes until she was told they cost $400. The whole situation would not have occurred if it not for the obsessive no-shoes rule.

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Pro shoes off

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By wearing your shoes indoors you are dragging in the dirt and germs that are found outside, and that should stay outside! It is especially dangerous if young children live in that house. Research has found that by playing on the floor with toys the child can be at risk of lead and arsenic poisoning. Not only are there health implications, why should home owners who have worked hard for their house be expected to go to such lengths to clean up after their guests?

It is often said by house-proud people that they feel uncomfortable asking their guests to remove their shoes.

Fear not; follow these easy steps, to remain the ever-polite hostess

How to silently remind guests to remove their shoes :

1.

Cast your eyes downwards at the guests feet 2.

Make a faint smile with gritted teeth 3.

Look down at the guest’s feet again 4.

When the guest looks down, nod Disclaimer:

This may not work on first time guests. This is best for reminding people who already know you don’t want shoes in your house.

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The Socks with Sandals Debate There seems to be one rule for women and another for men whenever this debate is raised. Whenever someone mentions socks with sandals the first image that pops into peoples minds is the over 50 male tourist wearing grey socks in their ‘comfortable’ Velcro sandals. It is often associated with tourists because rarely these people would sport this look in their own country, but it seems acceptable in a land where nobody else knows you. It is argued that socks are to keep your feet warm, but then why wear sandals? After all they are meant to keep your feet cool.

However it seems an altogether different affair for the females. With socks often appearing with sandals, even on the catwalk! The designer exaggerates the combination of colours and textures purposefully. So why is this okay, but not for your dad when your on holiday?

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Shoes and Religion It is widely publicised that shoe throwing also known as ‘Shoeing’ and the showing of ones shoe soles is extremely bad form in many parts of the world, most notably in Arab countries. The shoe is considered dirty and should face the ground, and is associated with the lowest part of our bodies, the foot, so it is clear to understand the derogatory relation. It is even considered obscene to sit with your ankle over you knee while talking to someone.

But it is unclear when this idea was introduced, and although it is closely connected with the Islamic faith there is no clear beginning to these ideas. We can only assume that it stems from the Ancient Egyptians or even Ancient Greeks, who are noted for their shoe etiquette and rituals.

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There are several high profile instances where shoes have been used as a metaphorical weapon, and sometimes quite a physical one too. You may remember when Iraqi journalist, Muntader al-Zeidi threw shoes at George Bush during a press conference with the then Iraqi Prime minster. It was during the second gulf war in Iraq, also part of the war on terror. The Iraq journalist threw the first shoe at the President of the United States and yelled in Arabic “This is a farewell kiss from the Iraqi people, you dog” and with the second shoe “This is for the widows and orphans and all those killed in Iraq”. He was subsequently arrest by authorities. Ironically the shoes that were thrown at Bush (made by the Turkish company, Ramazan Baydan) during the conference had a surge in sales in the subsequence week, with orders of 300,000 pairs.

Also when the Saddam Hussein’s statue was pulled down in Baghdad in April 2003, Iraqis Crowded around for their chance to strike it with their shoes.There was also once a mosaic made after the first gulf war of George Bush Senior that was laid on the floor of the Al-Rashid Hotel in Baghdad. People entering the hotel would have to walk over his face, and therefore showing him the soles of their shoes. In fact in the Muslim faith believers must remover their footwear to pray, and shoes are actually banned from Mosques.

103 More recently during the February 2011 riots in Egypt where they overthrew the dictatorship, many iconic images seen by the rest of the world in the media were of protestors raising their shoes up into their air.

When the president would attempt to talk to the people, the public simply threw their shoes in the air in disgust or waved them irately.

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Although it sounds quite outlandish there are crimes involving shoes! Shoes in some cases can even solve cases, of crime. In 2003 a 45 year old man was arrested in Japan after he had stolen 440 women’s left shoes. A hospital in the USA had reported patient’s shoes going missing, and later police discovered 440 single left shoes in the home of Ichiro Irie. It was never established why Mr. Irie preferred the left foot.

In 2006, shoes began to pay a fundamental role in the resolution of unsolved crimes in the UK, with the introduction of the first shoe print recognition system.

The system transforms shoeprints at crime scenes, and makes them just as important as DNA or fingerprints.

The automated system searches through records of the patterns on soles to identify the footwear used by a criminal.

It has been recognized that criminals are more often wearing sports shoes, which opens up the possibilities of grip patterns on the bottom of the shoe, and therefore can be easily singled down to a particular model of shoe.

It then can be identified if any suspects own these shoes.

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The

Symbol

Narrative There are countless stories told that include the use of shoes. From fairy tales, literature, plays, and film, there seems to be a pattern for using shoes. And not just for the physical appearence and aesthetics either. For example the story of Dorothy Gale. After getting lost in the magical land of Oz she aquires a pair of ruby slippers which send her on her way home. Tapping her heels and repeating the phrase ‘there’s no place like home’ three times, she suddenly returns to her home in kansas. They are probably one of the most famous pairs of shoes, and are recognised the world over. Interestingly L. Frank Baum’s classic fairytale which inspired the Wizard of Oz filmakers, actually depicted a silver pair of shoes in the original tale. However screenwritters knew that red would get more attention, and they certainly did. Throughout history it could also be argued that this pair of individual shoes actually stood for security, comfort, as well as the key to a magical place.

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Red shoes are a reoccurring theme within story telling.

Not only the famous Ruby slippers in Wizard of oz but also Hans Christian Anderson’s dark tale ‘The Red Shoes’, where the leading Character’s red ballet shoes take on a life of their own, set on the path of destruction. And even more recently in the Film Chocolat, where Actress Juliette Binoche’s charater is portrayed as a sensual single woman, who is considered by her neighbours as a menace to society, she is always seen wearing bright red high heeled shoes. These later two examples have set the idea of red shoes in a dark light, perhaps suggesting the devil in disguise. But it has not always been that way. In fact King Louis XIV could claim an early preference to red shoes. It is well documented that he was short, and so wore heeled shoes. He painted the soles of these shoes as an indication of high status.

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According to some, Cinderella’s original slippers were made of warm, cuddly fur and did not become glass untill an inept English translater mistook the french ‘vair’ (fur) for Verre (glass)

Puss in Boots & Cinderella The story of Cinderella and her glass slippers, and Puss and his boots are well known across the world.

Even though shoes are removable, they still symbolise strength, protection and luck, all traits we love to share through story telling. The story of Cinderella is hundreds of years old, and depending on where you live in the world everyone has a different opinion on what the story is based on. Both the Chinese and French claim it is part of their heritage. The British believe it stems from a middle ages marital ritual where the guests where required to put on the brides shoes, but only the groom was supposed to succeed.

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Shoe-perstitions shoe superstitions & folklore For unknown reasons shoes seem to hold alternate meanings as well as primarily for their function.

In fact there seems to be a saying about shoes for all aspects of life. From setting out on a journey, literally, or marriage to how to behave and treat shoes. Included here are some standard sayings that you may have heard even from your mum or nan, to some quite ridiculous ideas, but when you sit and think about them for minute you could almost speculate how they came to existance.

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To Wear An old shoe is a lucky object.

New shoes that have never been worn should be put high above the floor for luck.

Never wear your shoes in the house, because it brings in the devil.

It causes misfortune to place your shoes higher than your head.

Rest your shoes on a chair and you will be unfortunate.

To place old shoes high off the floor is unlucky.

Affairs of the heart Don’t buy your man a pair of shoes or he will walk out of your life forever.

In England old shoes are tied to a bridal carriage to bring luck. to bring fertility If you repeat “hoping this night, my true love to see, I place my shoe in the form of a T” (place your shoes heel against instep and do not speak again that night you will marry the man you see in your dreams.)

The bride (or her father) should put a coin (It was frequently a sixpence) in her shoe for good luck.

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Death & afterlife Undertakers refuse to bury people with their shoes on.

Never put new shoes on the table you will die by hanging.

Nothing new shoud be worn to a funeral, especially shoes

Money Shoe on a charm bracelet is for fortuity By wearing holes in the soles of your shoes you will become wealthy.

If you wear your shoes out on the toe, you will spend money as you go 118

Health A dog howling at night when someone in the house is sick is a bad omen. It can be reversed by reaching under the bed and turning over a shoe Set your removed shoes higher than your knees and you will be sick.

Antidote Put sugar in your shoes to coax your shirttail down People who daydream too much should put a piece of lead in their shoe. The weight will bring them back down to earth.

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Concealed Shoes Shoes are not just for wearing, oh no! There seems to be other uses for them. As already mention when looking at superstitions that have been passed down from generation to generation there seems to be a link between our shoes, or more precisely the soles and the the devil. Well it does not just stop at ensuring you do not put your new shoes on the table, or placing them higher than you head. It seems to go far beyond this.

Shoe historian, June Swann has written extensively on the subject of hidden or concealed shoes. She used to curate at the shoe museum in Northampton where she began the catalogue of findings of hidden shoes since the late 1950’s. She and fellow collegues began to notice similarities when recalling shoe finds. They were mainly found in the foundations of buildings, some even dating back to before the 1600’s. Suggesting superstition and shoes has been a long term relationship. In 2010 the National Trust uncovered 100 single shoes in a cript beneath a fire place in a ruined house in Snowdonia. It is believe by burying a single shoe would keep the devil out of the home. More strangely it seems that people were keen to put these shoes beneath the fireplace and some were even found in the chimney, which obviously draws strong links with the devil. There is great depth to Swanns research into concealed shoes, enough to fill a book.

But it is important to realise that these ideas date back over hundreds of years.

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So you think it some weird out of date malarky, that you might have heard your nan harp on about. Well it seems she may not be the only one. In fact there are some weird goings on in recent years. In 2005 it was reported that a couple living in a remote farmhouse where having complete strangers pull up to their drive way and leaving behind pairs of shoes. The couple are completely at a loss to why, but have admitted it is a little scary.

Whether superstition or tradition it seems to be a regular occurance to find shoes tied together and hung from trees. There seems to be no definative answer to why this is done, even with the National lottery funding of ÂŁ265,00 to investigate the difinative answer. Like many things over time, the message gets blurred and becomes a big game of chinese whispers.

The main consensus is that it is an old witchcraft ritual to put a hex on unfortunate souls. But today it seems to have been highjacked by youths.

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The

Holocaust

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Now to end this book with a reminder. Shoes on their own can have many connotations, but when viewed on mass we have a completely different reaction. It is hard to visualise the sheer number of people that were killed in concentration camps during WW2. The symbolic signification of shoes cannot be overstated. At Auschwitz today, there still remains cases upon cases of shoes; a remembence of those who suffered. Shoes are such a personal item, to which they had just one pair. It is shocking to see these pictures where we try and imagine who might had worn them.

Images such as these are used time and again to remind people what had happened. Even imediately after the war, people across the world did not no what had been going on and to what scale. one image filled with left behind shoes tells a much stronger story than any words can.

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With thanks To my Mum, who had the patience to spell-check the entire book for me and to all those who contributed to the content of the book in any way shape or form.

Your ideas and insight have kept my enthusiasm for this wonderful topic alive.

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Index

A Accordion, 16-17 Aeschylus, 17 Anatomy of a shoe, 62-63 Ancient Shoes, 6-21 Ankle Strap 40-41 Asian Sizing, 33 Assumptions, 82-91

B Ballet Flat 42-43 Bally, 5 Barleycorn, 24 Barrett Shoe Works, 48 Buckles, 87 Business, 70

C CAD/CAM, 50 Charity, 68-68 China, 51 Cinderella, 110- 111 Clarks, 51 Class, 84-91 Clog, 84 Clothing rationing, 54-55 Cobbler, 47 Concealed Shoes, 120- 121 Cordwainer, 47 Counter, 62-63 Crackow, 86 Cressman, 8-9 Crime, 104-105

D Disease, 69 Donating, 69

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E

Mary Jane 42-43

Shoe print, 104-105

Edward II, 24

Materials, 60-61

Shoe swapping, 72-79

Edwin Simpson, 30-31

Measuring, 35-27

Shoe types 38-39

Egyptians, ancient, 10-13

Mondopoint Sizing, 32

Shoeing, 102-103

Etiquette, 92

Mule 42-43

Shoemaker, 47

Europe Sizing, 32

F

Shoes off, 96-99

N

Size conversions, 34-35

Narrative, 108

Sling backs 42-43

Flatform 40-41

Nike, reuse a shoe, 70-71

Socks with sandals, 100-101

Forrest Gump, 88-89

Northampton, 46-47

Sole, 62-63

French heel 40-41

G Greek, Ancients, 14-17

Stiletto, 40-41

P

Superstitions, 112-119

Peep Toe 42-43 Platform 46-47

Swap my shoes, 72-79

Prehistoric, 6

T

Protection, 6

T-bar, 42-43

Heel 62-63

Protests, 103

Tenterhooks, 59

Hidden Shoe, 120-121

Puss in Boots, 110-111

The Symbol, 106

H

Holocaust, 122-113

I

Thongs, 6

Q

Toe Box 62-63

Quarter 62-63

Insole Lining, 62-63 Islam, 102-103

K

Topline (throat) 62-63 Tutankhamen’s, 12-13

R

U

Recycle, 66-79

UK sizes, 24

Kanye West, 83

Reduce, 68

USA sizing, 31

Kitten heel 40-41

Religion 102-103

L Largest shoes, 36-37 Leather, 60-61 Luxury, 66-67

M

Reuse, 68

V

Robert Wadlow, 36-37

Vamp, 62- 63

Romans, ancient, 18-21 Ruby Slippers, 108-109

W Wedge heel, 40-41

S

Welt, 62-63

Sandals 8-21

Wizard of Oz, 108

Shank 62-63

Workhouses, 49

Making a shoe, 56-57

Shoe fetish, 87

WW2, 54-55

Manufacture, 44-63

Shoe last, 57

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I am unable to accept liability for any incorrect information presented. Information has been sourced through books, Internet, newspapers and interviews.

Picture credits Every effort has been made to establish the author of these photographs, where this has not been possibly I have included where I have sourced the image from. p. 8 p. 8 p. 13 p. 14 p. 37 p. 37 p. 47 p. 48/49 p. 48 p. 49 p. 71 p. 72 p. 84 p. 103 p. 103 p. 108 p. 110/111 p. 111 p.123

Armenian Shoe © BBC Oregan Shoe © Luther Cressman Tutankhaman Sandals, Large& Small: © artofcounting.com Greek Shoemakers, © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Wadlow © www.gigantism.com Wadlows shoe © Doug Coldwell Cordwainer © Alma Boyes Barrett Works © Northampton Museum Work Houses. Left: Northampton Museum Right: Northampton Museum Reuse a Shoe images © Nike Swap my Shoes © Romy Tilbury Shoe Shine boy © www.synchrolux.com Holding Shoes © Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images Egyptian protests © guardian.co.uk Ruby Slippers © Warner Bros Puss in Boots © Gustave Doré Cinderella © Charles Perrault Holocaust top © www.augustana.edu Holocaust left © http://history1900s.about.com Holocaust right © www. Independant.co.uk

128

For anyone wanting to look past the aesthetics of the shoe and delve a little deeper into our associations with them, and how they are not just for wearing!