Gillmarine sailing what to wear

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RESPECTING THE ELEMENTS A complete what to wear guide to marine clothing

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By Nick Gill

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Introduction Fabric Selection Jargon Buster Garment Design The Layering system What to wear Dinghy Sailing What to wear Inshore and Coastal Sailing What to wear Offshore Cruising and Racing What to wear Ocean Cruising and Racing What to wear Power and General boating including Rib Driving Glossary of Terms Postscript

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Introduction

When I started sailing in the mid Sixties it was easy to decide what to wear to go dinghy sailing because all I had was a pair of Dunlop Magister blue canvas shoes; the sort that use to age well, the more faded and worn they were from the toe straps the better. It showed you had been sitting out hard and were not a beginner. If you could buy them pre-faded like jeans then I would have done. I would be packed off to the River Trent with a change of clothes and my faded blue shoes. It’s not that my parents were mean, it was more that there really was little choice and that is probably one reason why I am in the sailing clothing business.

"It’s easy for you!" I am told. "You have a whole warehouse to choose from." It’s true I do have a lot of gear at my disposal and I am always evaluating new designs and fabrics but, actually, it is not about how much gear you have but about having the right gear for the type of sailing you do, and your budget. With 25 years of experience in the clothing business, along with all its technical design and fabric advances, I hope this Guide will enlighten you and help you to choose the best combination of clothing for your type of sailing.

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Today life is a bit more complicated. I still dinghy sail but I have a jumbo sized bag packed full of gear. Thermal underwear for warmth and moisture management control.

Fleece Salopette and top. A breathable drysuit for winter sailing, Wetsuit for summer. Dinghy system waterproofs. Quick drying technical shorts with UV protection for height of the summer in light winds. I have neoprene boots, or competition ankle boots for better support. Gloves, socks and hats.

The list goes on. I take it all just in case. The only thing I don’t take is a change of clothes because I don’t expect to get wet!

Fabric selection

Later, I discuss garment design but at this point I focus exclusively on the fabric. What should you be considering for your particular type of sailing? I then move on to how we assess fabrics and know that they will do the job required.

Let’s put the salt water issue to bed. In the early days of breathable fabric a high profile brand used a micro porous membrane. It had been fine in the outdoor sector so was sold into the marine trade, primarily in the USA. It was also trialled in the UK on gear used for the Whitbread Round the World Race. The garments were fine on day one but after a few days of continuous use in salt water they started to leak. To cut a very long story short it was established that the micro pores were being blocked with salt crystals causing the fabric to leak through reverse osmosis. You couldn't ask a customer to rinse his gear in fresh water everyday so that particular fabric was withdrawn from the marine market for a while. Putting a hydrophilic coating on top of the micro porous membrane to prevent contamination of the pores later solved the problem.

Whilst this had a slight effect on the rate of breathability it still did the job. So today breathable fabrics do work perfectly well in sea water; it just delayed the arrival and speed of acceptance in the market.

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If one word has dominated discussion in the sailing clothing world for the past five to ten years then it is "breathable".

Is it breathable? How breathable is it? How does it compare?

Will it last as long? Why is it so expensive? Do I need a lining and isn’t it affected by salt water? These are just a few of the questions that crop up time and time again. The change over to breathable fabrics has been gradual, the price has come down and the quality has gone up as manufacturers have gone through the learning curve. Breathable fabrics have been around in the outdoor clothing market for much longer but outdoor conditions are generally less severe than sailing.

You may be walking in a howling gale with torrential rain but it still is not quite the same as actually sitting in water and having solid waves hitting you hard enough to knock you over board. On top of that is the abrasion from non-slip decks and salt water.

Fabric selection

They say if you wait around long enough everything will go full circle, from flares to skirt length; linings on sailing gear have not been exempt from these cycles. When I began making sailing clothing everything was heavy and unlined. We then discovered we could improve comfort by putting a lining in; this created a double glazing effect. Condensation could move away from the body, through the lining where it would form as moisture droplets when it hit the impermeable membrane.

It could then drain away between the layers. It was often felt that linings in a jacket meant it was a better quality garment and more comfortable to wear. However during the 1997 Whitbread Race trials the crew of Chessie Racing were crossing the North Atlantic from West to East when a crew member suddenly took a pair of scissors to his breathable Ocean jacket and cut out the lining. He noticed an immediate improvement. Breathability was improved because it was one less barrier, the garment was lighter and also dried faster.

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Today 90 percent of waterproof sailing clothing is made from breathable fabrics. They are without doubt more comfortable, particularly in more active racing conditions. So is there still a place for non-breathable fabrics in 21st Century?

The advantage of non-breathable fabrics is that they are cheaper to produce and they offer exceptional durability for the price. At Gill we have only one non-breathable range and that is a coastal/offshore sailing suit. It is full of features, is exceptional value and will last for years and, for many cruising sailors or for those who want an additional set to keep on board for the occasional guest, is more than adequate.

So why should I choose a breathable garment? There is no doubt it is more comfortable to wear. You probably would tell the difference trying on a garment in the shop. Put on a non-breathable garment for about four or five minutes whilst you look around, then swap it for a good quality breathable jacket and do the same. I would be surprised if you didn’t notice the difference. Breathable fabrics are generally lighter and can in certain cases be worn comfortably without a lining.

Having once worn one, I would be loathed to go back to a traditional non-breathable garment. It is a bit like once having had a car with central locking or power steering, it is hard to imagine life without it.

Fabric selection

The following season Gill introduced top of the range garments without linings; as with all new concepts it took a while for it to become accepted but today is acknowledged as the best way to do it. So the fashion has gone from no lining to lined garments and back again.

It was also becoming clear to me that you, the consumer, were becoming even more confused than I was. I would listen to customers at boat shows and they would say how does "thistex" compare with "thattex". Which is more breathable?

What is an RET test? Is "thistex" really worth the extra?

The more I thought about it the more I came to the conclusion that it probably was not. Customers were looking to us for guidance; they wanted the wood separating from the trees and did not need us to add to the confusion. They trusted us and we needed to be fair and honest about what we were doing.

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Product design and fabric selection are two key elements in sailing clothing. If the fabric is not right, at best you will be uncomfortable and at worst cold, wet and miserable.

For over twenty years I have sat across the desk with fabric manufacturers listening to their sales patter on why their fabric is the best. They talk about "hydrostatic head pressure", "martindale abrasion tests" and "inverted cup methods".

When breathable fabrics came onto the market the jargon shifted up a gear. "Hydrophilic vs. microporous", "wick siphoning ability"; these are just a few terms that were banded about. I was shown fancy diagrams, technical sounding names and eulogies that all added to the confusion. The fun really began when I tried to compare one fabric with another.

Manufacturer "A" tested one way and Manufacturer "B" another. Each manufacturer chose the test method that suited them, their fabrics or their technology the best. None of this helped me decide which fabric to use. It was also clear, that the higher profile the brand name the higher the premium we had to pay. When we pushed for better prices I was sometimes told that if we bought the fabric un-branded it could be much cheaper. It would not have the swing tickets with fancy diagrams or the well known brand names but the fabric would be the same.

Fabric selection

There had to be a better way and the answer was already deep inside the bowels of the Gill technical department in Nottingham. For over five years we had been working with the textile department of a leading University. We had been sending them every fabric we worked with, or were considering working with, for independent analysis. We had manufacturers specification sheets but they were all different and all tested in different ways. We wanted everything tested in the same way and we wanted all the tests done- not just the tests they wanted us to see. We wanted Marine-grade tests, tests that simulated sitting in water, tests that flexed fabric as if it had been used in a force 8 gale. We also wanted to see all the results graded so we could select the right fabric for the job.

The more we thought about it the clearer it became. We would forget branded fabrics; we would evaluate every fabric in the same way and select the right fabric for the job in hand.

We would then grade them in a clear and precise way so the customer knew that this fabric was better than that one.

We would then communicate this information clearly on the garment and in all our supporting literature. So how could we do this?

The answer was actually staring us in the face. We looked at it everyday and it was clear and it stood out. It was the yellow dot that had been used in our logo for the last ten years.

We would grade the fabrics with yellow dots and quite simply and clearly, the more breathable and the more durable a fabric, the more dots we gave it. We began to work on our system for testing, grading and classifying fabrics.

This required us to sort the wheat from the chaff, remove the confusion, the phoney names and eulogies.

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So if we had all this information to help us make the right decision why were we not using it to help the customer make the right decision? Why were we still adding to the confusion using "thistex" and "thattex" and even worse, our customers were having to pay a premium for the privilege of being confused and having an additional glossy swing ticket?

Fabric selection

Before I start to describe how the yellow dot system works it would be worth looking at how fabrics are tested at Gill.

We apply these tests to every single fabric we use and not just in the development process but, most importantly, before each production batch. In this way we ensure the performance of our garments and can therefore guarantee that they are fit for purpose. Every fabric is tested in the same way and tested independently of us and the fabric manufacturer. When you ask us the question, how do we know that this fabric is better than that one or does heavier really mean better? Here is the answer. Coating strength is no longer measured in thickness and weight; it is down to the chemical structure and not obvious to the naked eye.

Resistance to water pressure First of all the fabric is tested for water pressure resistance.

The British Standard sets a minimum hydrostatic head water pressure but at Gill we have set our own minimum of five times greater than that standard in order to be absolutely certain that we can trust our fabrics to perform.

Machine Wash We then machine wash and tumble dry the fabric five times. (more than most people would do in a garment’s life) and test the water pressure again. It must still exceed our minimum water pressure to pass.

Artificial ageing After that we will artificially age the fabric with flexing and abrasion.

For flexing we use a test known as the Shildknecht test.

This simulates the type of rapid flexing found when sailing in strong winds. (Rather than the walking motion flexing found in outdoor clothing) Again the fabric is tested for water pressure and must still exceed our minimum.

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The next few paragraphs talk about how fabrics can be tested to ensure they are durable enough for the job, some of the detail of the tests may seem a bit laborious. If you are not interested in the finer points then you can skim the headlines and move on to the next section.

Fabric selection

Next the fabric is aged in a high humidity incubator for 168 hours at 70 degrees C and high humidity. This will simulate literally years of active use in a short time and if a fabric is going to fail it will normally fail here.

Again the fabric is tested for water pressure and it still must exceed our minimum. Most fabric suppliers do not recognize this test as it is deemed too harsh, but it enables us to set a bench mark of performance.

Fabric Abrasion The next test is for abrasion on both the face and coated surface. This will simulate the wear and tear found on the seats and knees of garments. The fabric is abraded for 6,000 cycles against a 320 grade standard grit sandpaper.

Not unlike the decks of many boats! The fabric must withstand the 6,000 cycles.

Tear Strength Finally it will be tested for tear strength and must exceed 45 Newton’s as laid down in the BS3424.

All the above test methods are carried out to the procedures laid out in the British Standard Tests and are independently overseen by the textile department of a leading British University.

Field Testing Once a fabric has passed all our minimum criteria it will then be put out for field-testing. The amount and type of use a garment has received is carefully monitored and tests for wear are compared against laboratory tests. Field testing includes Racing Yachts like illbruck, winners of the Volvo Ocean Race and the Scottish National Sailing centre at

The illbruck crew, part of the Gill field-testing team deep in the Southern Ocean

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Coated Abrasion The coating must also withstand 5,000 cycles of rubbing with a standard worsted material. This will simulate the garment being rubbed against clothing worn under the foul weather gear. After this test the fabric must still exceed our minimum of water pressure.

Fabric selection

Cumbrai where the garments are used day in and day out by there instructors in the worst conditions the Scottish weather can throw at them.

Then, and only when we are completely satisfied that a fabric is fit for the purpose, will it be given a yellow dot rating and released for production. It is not a one-off test.

Each production batch will be re-tested to ensure the fabric is up to the required standards.

This may all seem a little excessive but we know from experience that when you are out in appalling conditions, struggling against the elements, the last thing you need to worry about is your equipment. We do this testing so that when you see our yellow dots you know that the garment is fit for purpose.

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Yellow Dot Fabric System Summary: The choice of fabric for sailing type is very complicated as you can see from the previous sections so what we have done is created a categorisation of fabrics so that all you have to do is check the type of sailing you do and then look at the number of yellow dots assigned to the ideal fabric for that sailing type.

As you can see from the sections on testing, durability and breathability we have done the rest on your behalf so if, for example you are a dinghy sailor, you can rest assured that a two dot fabric is the best type of fabric for your needs.

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Jargon buster

Breathability What is breathability?

A breathable fabric is one that allows the warm moist air created by your body to pass through the material rather than build up as condensation on the inside of the garment.

There are varying degrees of breathability and whether condensation will occur can depend as much on the aerobic activity of the wearer as the conditions the garments are being used in. There is no such thing as a condensation-free fabric.

With moderate exertion our bodies give off about half a litre of moisture vapour in one hour. This is the body’s natural cooling system. To prevent discomfort this moisture must evaporate and not be build up inside the clothing system.

How is it measured?

Fabric manufacturers tend to use the test method that suits their particular fabric the best. Microporous fabrics for example, work best in low humidity and at high temperatures.

To get the best results these will be tested using BS(DIN)31092 or the "Skin Model/Sweating Guarded hot plate" test method, more commonly known as the R.E.T test. This simulates waterproof fabric next to the skin and tests at 35 °C and 40% humidity; in my experience not normally the conditions in which we wear foul weather gear. I believe a more realistic test is BS 7209 which tests the fabric at 20° C and 65% humidity, replicating the conditions in which products are used. The test method measures the evaporation of distilled water over a given period by very accurately weighing a control dish before and after. This is then represented as a percentage. (I believe everyone can relate to a percentage whereas if we talk about 6,000 g/m2/per 24 hours you are likely to say "so what?")

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The most breathable materials are micro-fibres, which do not have a waterproof coating on them. They are water and wind resistant because the fibres are so finely woven. They are not however truly waterproof. For that you need a waterproof coating or membrane to be added to the base fabric.

Jargon buster

A fabric is considered breathable under BS 7209 if it is higher than 50%. In reality not many companies quote percentages so it is not always a help.

So what should you look out for when considering breathable garments. Firstly, is the whole garment made from breathable fabrics? I am aware of a drysuit on the market which is sold as breathable, in reality only the top half is made from breathable fabric and when tested that came out at 45%. Not a very breathable garment at all. The answer is that you have to trust the brand you are buying. As there are no recognised ways of testing and assessing garments as a whole we have developed our own grading system with the yellow dot chart. The more dots, the more breathability and durability, taking into account the end use and the price point of the garment.

Breathability is reduced by linings and areas of double thickness of fabrics, such as pockets, flaps over zips and collars, reflective panels etc. So whilst we might start with a very breathable fabric we have already reduced its effectiveness by the time it has been made up into a garment.

Breathability is then reduced further by what is being worn underneath. For example, wearing chest high trousers can result in another two layers of fabric that, in the middle of the garment, are doubled up. Under these there could be a mid-layer and thermal underwear. All this layering is technically correct to maintain body temperature and move moisture away from the body however, at the same time, it reduces the overall breathability of the system.

Don’t be put off by a simply designed garment. Garments without linings will be more breathable than those with linings.

The less pockets and flaps, the more breathable it could be, i.e. quite a different way of thinking

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Garment breathability Whenever you see a sailing jacket or salopettes in a shop you will see reference to the garments breathability. Beware however, because this actually means the breathability of the fabric that the garment is made from as opposed the breathability of the garment itself. The design of the garment is crucial to the level of breathability it offers.

Jargon buster

Waterproof When we talk about the word ‘waterproof’, are we talking about the fabric or the garment? Quite often the manufacturer is talking about the fabric but you mean the garment. Making a waterproof fabric is relatively easy, but it doesn’t end there.

It must stay waterproof over the life of the garment and the garment needs to be as watertight as possible.

BS 3546 states that a fabric must resist water to a pressure of 100cm. This may be satisfactory for walking in wet conditions but not for the Southern Ocean. One of the big differences is that on a boat you actually sit in water and in the case of a Volvo 60 the crew are literally fire hosed. The words of the crew of illbruck, not mine.

Having selected a fabric that is waterproof and will stay waterproof, we then have to make the garment as watertight as possible. It starts with the seams, which are literally punctured by the sewing needles. These are sealed with a tape that is applied using hot air to melt the adhesive onto it.

The picture on the left shows how the garment is fed between two rollers with the hot air nozzle above it. The taping machine transformed the industry in the early eighties improving both waterproofness and reducing manufacturing time.

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We set a minimum resistance of 500cm or five times the minimum standard for BS 3546.

Jargon buster

Durability It is one thing to make a fabric that is waterproof and breathable when it comes off the roll but to make it last for the life of the garment is a different matter. We have a range of tests that artificially age and wear fabrics and these are covered earlier within this guide.

In the early days fabrics tended to have coatings on the outside of the fabric such as PVC. However these were easily abraded away on rough decks so today, the outer layer is always a nylon fabric with the coating on the inside. Different fabrics can be used in different parts of the garment. Light fabric is used where flexibility is wanted and heavier patches of high tenacity nylon are used for seats and knees, the high wear areas.

What should you particularly look for as far as durability is concerned? If you are particularly tough on garments then reinforced seats, knees and elbows will be important. Look at the type of fabric used. It should be heavier than the rest of the garment. Also generally a three layer fabric will last longer.

Dinghy sailing tends to be particularly tough on garments but lightness and flexibility is important. Therefore linings and heavy fabrics are not an option. This can be overcome by using a more durable coating. This will not be easy to assess on the shelf and again comes down to trust and guidance form the experts.

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Durability can also be improved further by laminating a thin scrim fabric onto the inside. This reduces abrasion on the coating from clothing and is known as a three-layer fabric.

Jargon buster

Coatings Waterproof fabrics always start with a base fabric or substrate.

In the early days the fabric was impregnated or coated with a heavy non-porous material such as PVC or Neoprene.

They tended to be heavy, inflexible and certainly not breathable. Today most fabrics are breathable and are made in one of two ways.

I. Microporous coated and laminated fabrics This works on the principle that water molecules are larger than air molecules and as long as the size of the holes is less than 10 microns, moisture vapour can escape without letting in water. It can be in the form of a membrane, which is laminated to an outer fabric or a coated polyurethane fabric.

Gill’s Key West Offshore garments are an example of a microporous membrane.

II. Hydrophilic coated and laminated fabrics Hydrophilic-coated fabrics are made up of a mixture of hydrophilic and hydrophobic chemicals. Hydrophilic means water loving and hydrophobic means water fearing. By mixing the coating so the hydrophilic layer is on the inside, moisture vapour is absorbed through the coating structure and out the other side without letting water in. Hydrophilic fabrics have the advantage of working well in high humidity. Some fabrics can be a combination of the two and it is not a case that one is better than the other. It is more to do with how well it has been manufactured, how many coating layers there and how durable it is.

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The diagram on the left shows the coating film from the Key West range. There are tiny holes in the ceramic coating of between 5 and 10 microns, larger enough to let moisture escape but far too small to let in raindrops which are nearer 100 microns.

Garment design

Today most sailors will wear either a jacket or a smock styled top and a chest high trouser or salopette. One-piece garments have lost favour, being too inflexible and are only used in a dry suit form.

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First there is a flap behind the zip The inside flap above the zip is turned back on itself to create a gully to drain water away from the zip.

The outer flap runs the full length of the zip and should be secured

by Velcro®

Most jackets today will have an inner cuff made from a soft PU material that has a degree of stretch and can be closed further with Velcro. In addition the sleeve should have an outer cuff that can be tightened to minimise the opening. There tends to be little difference between the top of the range jackets and the inshore jacket in this area. The design has been perfected and is expected as a standard feature. In my experience, if the inner cuffs are done up reasonably tightly and the outer cuff is secured there is little chance of water going up the sleeve.

I will always remember in the early years a particular customer who bullied me into moving our cuff design up a few gears. He returned a jacket saying it was letting water in at the cuff and went into great detail to explain where and how.

He was quite right; it was not his particular jacket that was at fault but a limitation on the design. I spent hours tweaking and developing it, which at the time, using a high frequency welding machine, was not easy. I thought we had it sorted but a few weeks later back it came. We spent quite a while discussing it on the ‘phone. He was quite forceful that it should be possible and we just had to get it sorted.

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We’ll start from the premise that all the fabric for foul weather clothing is waterproof. It can however differ with weight, breathability and varying degrees of durability. The amount of protection you get then comes down to the garment design.

Water can only access the jacket through the zip, up the sleeves or down the neck opening. Taking the zip area, even the most basic jacket should have a storm flap over the zip secured with Velcro®. The protection can be increased with a flap behind the zip and a further flap above the zip. This can be turned in to create a gully for water to drain away before it can reach the zip. Sophisticated flap arrangements can usually keep water out in most conditions. However the ultimate protection is provided by a smock top without an opening at all.

(This we’ll look at later.)

Garment design

Out of this was born our soft PU inner cuff with Velcro® adjustment that is used on just about every manufacturer’s cuff today. It made me realise that real progress in garment design could be made and boundaries could be pushed back if we were willing to challenge everything. Whilst at the time, our design and production department were not always complimentary about this particular customer, there is no doubt in my mind that he did the business a lot of good.

He pushed us and I am grateful for the experience. When we finally got it sorted he was the first to say so and came on our stand the following London Boat Show and treated us like long lost friends. He came back for many years and I often think about him today in product development meetings when someone tries to tell me something’s not possible.

The finest test bed we have for understanding how our clothing can best protect you from the elements has always been the Southern Ocean and the Whitbread and Volvo Open 60’s.

In the ‘97 Whitbread we were working with Chessie Racing.

We had developed a collar and hood arrangement that we believed was second to none. However, the bowman, Ricky Deppe, was still complaining that he was getting wet. "The water hasn’t even started breaking when it hits me. Don’t forget I get it 55ft before anyone else on the boat. What I really want," Ricky told us, "is the top half of a drysuit with a high collar and hood. That way I will have the flexibility of a two piece and the protection of a drysuit".

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The neck opening is probably the hardest to seal against the elements. This is the area where garments differ most between categories. It tends to be the collar height that determines whether a garment is called an inshore, coastal or offshore/ocean jacket. All garments today will feature a hood that folds into a collar, the collar will be fleece-lined for warmth and comfort. An inshore jacket tends to have a collar that reaches just above the bottom of the ears whereas an offshore collar completely covers them and reaches up to almost the top of the head. Chin flaps and storm guards will leave only the eyes showing; great for tacking into a north-easterly gale but a bit over the top for cruising in the Solent.

Garment design

This e-mailed feedback was coming to us from deep within the Southern Ocean between Cape Town and Fremantle.

Our designers got on the case, drew up a spec, scanned it into the computer and e-mailed back to Chessie for comments.

We had a one word reply "Perfect" …followed by a deadline.

"I need it for the Auckland to Rio leg," commanded Ricky.

Thus the Bowman’s Smock was born. It consisted of a smock styled garment with latex rubber neck and wrist seals with a high collar and hood.

This has to be the ultimate protection and was also used by the crew of LG Flatron on their way to victory in the BT Global Challenge in 2001. The Challenge race is made up of enthusiastic amateurs crewing with a professional skipper.

They have probably had a lifelong ambition to do something adventurous and many cash in their life savings to make it happen.

"It was great to dispel the myth that if you are working on the foredeck during the BT Global Challenge you will be soaking wet.

The Gill Bowman's smock kept my team warm and dry and there is no doubt in my mind that this was one of the factors of our success."

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During training, the LG Flatron skipper, Conrad Humphreys, noticed that there was often resistance from crew members to going forward to change sails. It wasn’t the danger, he discovered, but the knowledge that they would inevitably end up with water down their necks and the next four hours would be spent miserably wet and uncomfortable. The tops supplied by the official supplier to the race used a conventional neck closure system. However, Conrad believed that if he had a latex seal on the garment they would be totally dry and that moment’s hesitation about going forward would be lost.

Conrad had been trying out our Bowman's Smock and decided to let members of his crew try it out in training. It was not long before the entire crew complement had them on order.

After the race he commented.

Garment design

In addition the recent Volvo Ocean Race saw the Bowman’s Smock development move further back the boat. The crew of illbruck also wanted the total seal around the neck and cuffs but they wanted to keep weight to an absolute minimum and wanted to be able to hear instructions and shouts from team members. High collars, flaps and hoods meant this was not always possible, especially on top of the roar of surfing down forty foot waves at twenty seven knots. illbruck took our dinghy Dry Smock, added a pocket and specified an Ocean quality fabric. Job done. Stripped down to the basics just like the boat itself. Minimum weight, maximum manoeuvrability and crew alertness at all times and they were still dry underneath.

Hung on my office wall is a picture of Chessie Racing blasting through New Zealand’s Hauraki Gulf in a mass of white horses and spray. All the crew were dressed in their yellow Ocean gear except Gavin Brady who was in his red and dinghy spray top.

Neither the fabric nor the garment were designed for this sort of use but it tells me that the lighter and more freedom of movement the garment offers, the better, and the proof is there on my wall as a constant reminder. Our job is never done.

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The crew weren’t in that much of hurry to take the gear off despite the neck seals

People have often said to me, surely wearing a rubber latex seal for long periods is desperately uncomfortable. However if you looked at the television pictures from the Volvo Ocean Race, the skipper John Kostecki and his crew would still be in their Dry Smocks long after they had come ashore. Standing on the podium, hugging their family and chatting to the media can’t have been that uncomfortable otherwise the smocks would have been pulled off the minute the guys hit dry land.

The answer is that a Dry Smock is not an immersion garment that is worn in or under the water and therefore the neck seal can be less tight than it would be on a drysuit or survival suit.

The seals come with ring marks and the answer is to keep cutting them away, one at a time, so it seals round the neck with only the slightest pressure. That way you can wear it day and night and the crew of illbruck often did.

Garment design

So Chessie started what illbruck would finish. Ocean gear used to be about bells and whistles, pockets and flaps, harness channels and EPIRB pockets. illbruck wanted performance, and performance to them meant minimum weight and maximum speed. If it wasn’t essential leave it off. Stripped down and sleek like the racing machine it was. We were effectively producing dinghy clothing in ocean level fabrics because short of swimming, I defy you to get any wetter in a dinghy than you can on a Volvo Open 60!

I first worked on reducing windage in 1980 and it has taken a long time put into commercial use. Back in 1980 John Oakley, Olympic Medallist, was appointed skipper of Lionheart, the first British America’s Cup challenge for many years. He came to us for their clothing requirements because we were a young innovative company, hungry for a challenge and willing to listen. His ideas were not only radical for the time; they would still raise eyebrows today. He wanted lightweight, low windage and flexibility, giving exceptional freedom of movement and

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Dinghy clothing has been reasonably lightweight now for several years but it could still be restrictive. Working with the Olympic sailors and in particular Ian Walker, (twice Olympic silver medallist), I learned that what they wanted was better freedom of movement and reduced windage. They wanted to be able to lift their arms without the garment riding up. If we could achieve this, then we could slim the garment down and reduce windage. This was achieved by putting in an underarm panel from the waist to the tips of the arms. It worked perfectly and reduced the flapping fabric by about 20%. We then looked at the legs and arms. When you are sitting on a boat your legs are bent, putting strain on the fabric across the knees. Strain equals resistance and resistance slows you down. So, our designer came up with the idea of pre-articulating the legs. In other words, pre-bending, by putting more fabric in the front than in the back, thereby taking away any resistance. We did the same with the arms. The overall result was that we produced garments that were slimmer, better fitting, more comfortable to wear and with less wind resistance than previously.

Garment design

comfort. We chose a light transfer coated fabric with a degree of stretch. We then put in long zips with gussets behind so once the garment was on it could be zipped up and slimmed down. A trip to the motorcycle shop to look at cycling leathers taught us a lot. John recognised that speed on the grinders was essential so he wanted detachable arms. Again coil zips were inserted just below the shoulder blades. When detached it was like wearing a gilet and when attached you had the full protection of a jacket. He chose white as the colour, not just because it went well against the shiny black hull but because it did not absorb heat. Up until then wet weather gear had always been yellow or orange for visibility.

For nearly a decade after that we had white gear in our range, only disappearing when fully breathable fabrics helped reduce the temperature. John Oakley's ideas were well ahead of their time; it took another twenty years when we started working with the illbruck crew that quite so much detailed attention was again given to clothing design.

S E C T I O N

4

The layering system

Much has been written about interactive layering systems, three layer systems and moisture management control.

Whatever you might think about all the jargon, the actual principle is very sound and is essential if you are to make the most of your waterproof breathable clothing.

My first long sailing trip was at the age of nineteen delivering a 26 foot boat from Poole Harbour to Gibraltar, long before I had turned my mind to developing sailing clothing. My kit consisted of cotton t-shirts, an oiled wool sweater and some heavy PVC oilies. I can still remember the damp clammy feeling in the early hours of the morning as the clothing had absorbed moisture rather than wicked it away.

However, if you are wearing a thermal underwear base layer it can physically wick the moisture away from the body (polyester absorbs less than 1% of its own weight in moisture), keeping you dry and warm even after a burst of activity.

This first layer or base layer is known as the wicking layer and its main purpose is to keep you dry next to the skin.

The second layer, often referred to as the mid-layer, is the insulating layer. This is the buffer between the warm skin and the cold air outside. It is important that this layer is highly breathable and any moisture can continue its journey into the great outdoors. This middle layer is key and can be illustrated by a recent example. The crew of illbruck were using foul weather gear made from some of the most breathable fabric available at between 75% - 80%. In the few days before arriving in Cape Town (where the conditions are particularly

5 S E C T I O N

As illustrated earlier, cotton clothing absorbs moisture - anything up to 25% of its own weight in water. Damp air then transfers heat away from the body twenty times quicker than dry air. Sailing is a sport where you can be sitting still for long periods then along comes a sail change or requirement to put a reef in and all hell breaks loose for a few minutes. You then sit down again. If you are wearing cotton clothing next to the skin it will absorb the moisture and suck the heat out of your body leaving you feeling cold and clammy and tired.

The layering system

wet and humid), they believed their foul weather gear might not be breathing as it should and asked us to perform some checks on the gear. We put the garments on the waterproof pressure tester and everything was fine; we sent some of the fabric out for independent breathability tests and there were no problems. A lot of head scratching later our technical came up with the probable solution. On their usual thorough belts and braces approach, illbruck had selected the mid-layer to be totally waterproof with taped seams as opposed to our normal micro fibre which was highly breathable but only lightly water-resistant.

LAYER 1

Base or wicking layer

2

LAYER 2

Mid or insulating layer

Our technicians did a calculation which showed that from a highly breathable outer fabric at 80%, each layer underneath would reduce the amount of breathability. If you assume a waterproof mid-layer and the inevitable overlaps around the middle caused by chest high trousers the actual end % is nearer 15 to 20% . In an area of particularly high humidity this can lead you to believe the gear isn't breathing properly.

The outer layer is where the real protection against the elements takes place and it must be completely water and windproof. In order to work most efficiently, the fabric will be breathable and it will let the moist air escape that’s built up inside the garment. We recognise that not all waterproof clothing is breathable and on a non-breathable fabric the moisture can condense on the inside of the garment and run down the inside between the outer shell and the lining. Not ideal but considerably better when worn with the layering system. The real key is to get as much moisture away from the body as possible.

The important things to remember are 1) Never wear cotton, particularly next to the skin.

2) The base layer is the wicking layer 3) The mid layer is insulating and should be adjusted accordingly 4) The outer layer is the weather protection layer.

3

LAYER 3

Weather protection

5 S E C T I O N

1

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Over the next few pages we cover what to wear for different types of sailing. I also cover the assumptions of sailing in different climates and on different budgets. This ranges from "I want the best possible options" to "I am trying out sailing for the first time and I only want the bare essentials".

Obviously personal choice comes into it and we all have our own favourites for different reasons. I hope, however, that it will give you a flavour for what is out there and what your options are.

So let’s begin with keeping afloat. If you are a member of a sailing club and racing, whether you like the idea or not, you are almost certainly going to have wear a buoyancy aid.

However good a swimmer you are, you never know when you might get a bump on the head from the boom and at best be stunned and at worst unconscious, so it makes sense.

My first buoyancy aid was about three inches thick and made of kapok covered by a heavy duty PVC shell. It had lacing eyes so it could be tightened up. It was bulky, stiff as a board, impossible to do up properly and when you fell in the water it went straight over your head making it impossible to see or swim and you just had to hope there was someone around to fish you out. It certainly didn’t encourage you to wear it.

Today buoyancy aids and life jackets are covered by European CE standards and the standard that is recommended for dinghy sailing is the 50 Newton standard. It assumes you can already swim, (check details) They have to have specified

6 S E C T I O N

Dinghy Sailing In many ways dinghy sailing is one of the hardest topics to cover. It is very much a sport for all seasons and in the UK at least, we sail for twelve months of the year in temperatures ranging from freezing to 30°C. The water temperature can also make a big difference and can vary from 2 to 3 degrees in a cold inland lake or gravel pit to 20 degrees in the summer.

On top of that there is a huge variation in boats from the traditional to the latest sports boat with twin wires and asymmetric rigs; single hander Lasers, to Tornado Catamarans capable of 25 knots.

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

amounts of buoyancy, fit well, be tough and most definitely stay on when you fall in. There may be many regulations for which we curse the EEC however, this should not be one of them.

I usually manage to test the drysuit once or twice a year!

As I have already mentioned, dinghy sailing is a pretty broad subject and it is difficult to know where to begin so it may be worth looking at examples. I believe I fall into the Club Racer category. I sail a National 12 at Notts County Sailing Club, a reasonable sized inland open water. I sail as often as I can between 1st March and 1st January so encounter all seasons.

I will do a few open meetings and if possible a championship week but most of my sailing takes place inland. I believe I am fairly typical of thousands of club sailors. We all want to be warm, dry and comfortable in a variety of conditions.

I began my sailing life on the River Trent, which was centrally heated by the outflow of about four power stations up stream.

In summer the water was literally tepid and in winter just cool and I rarely bothered with a wetsuit or drysuit. Who said Global warming is a new phenomenon? Today I am sailing on a gravel pit where wetsuits or drysuits are mandatory from mid-October onwards. Not that you need to be told to wear one. On New Year’s Day I encountered ice flows on the water that made a terrifying noise when you sailed through them.

Many people tend to forget that you are far more likely to die of hypothermia than you are to drown.

6 S E C T I O N

Most dinghy sailors want as much freedom of movement and as little bulk as possible. There are two main buoyancy types used for dinghy sailing. A conventional zipped vest and a pull-over–the-head type. The zipped vest is easier to put on but is slightly longer than the pull-over, which seems to be the most popular amongst the racing fraternity. It fits snugly above where a trapeze hook would go. Freedom of movement is improved by using as many pieces of closed cell foam as possible so that it bends around the contours of the body.

This is usually the way you can tell the cheaper vests from the more expensive. The cheap ones will have one or two pieces of 25mm foam that have to bend to fit the body. The better ones will have strategic panels designed to give as much freedom of movement as possible.

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Under my drysuit I wear a thermal one-piece suit, although a two-piece system is just as good. As discussed earlier in the layering section, this is essential for wicking moisture away from the body. A drysuit is literally sealed at every opening and risk of condensation could not be greater. Over the one-piece base layer I will wear a fleece salopette and top, depending on the temperature. I have yet to feel cold sailing in this combination.

Some people will prefer to wear wetsuits. These are available in a variety of weights and styles. Just as with all marine clothing there have been huge advances in design and material technology. Look for suits using different thicknesses of neoprene in different areas depending whether it is warmth or flexibility that is the main criteria. There are copper linings, titanium finishes, some of which are a bit gimmicky but do have some benefit. Also look for blind stitching that is waterproof and flat seaming that will not press against the body. There are also non-slip materials and reinforcing for seats and knees.

6 S E C T I O N

When it is really cold I prefer a drysuit. The idea that I can walk out up to my waist in water when launching or avoid the cold chill when hitting the water on an involuntary capsize is appealing. Drysuits are available in front and back zip versions.

I prefer the back zip because it means less bulk across the middle, it is lighter and easier to move around in. The main argument against them is that help is sometimes needed to do the zip right up but to me it’s a small price to pay. Doing the last centimetre up on either a front or back zip is essential.

Because the zip is so stiff it is easy to leave just a tiny bit open.

I remember early one March testing a drysuit in an open-air swimming pool. The water was 5°C and all I was wearing underneath was my work shirt and trousers. Everything was fine until I fully immersed the zip and an icy cold trickle ran down my back. When I got out I checked the zip and whilst it looked closed it was not locked home. I was also quite shocked just how cold it was even with a drysuit on. Only my hands were exposed and in just a few minutes the heat literally drained away. Of course I wouldn’t go sailing in just a thin cotton shirt but it acted as a reminder of the devasting effects of hypothermia.

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

The big difference between a wetsuit and drysuit is that with a drysuit the warmth and protection comes by staying totally dry whether in the water or out. A wetsuit works on the principal that even though wet, body heat will not escape through neoprene. Any water in the suit will warm up. Overall a wetsuit on its own may be lighter and more flexible if you don’t mind the initial cold feeling when falling in. It will also need some protection on top to prevent damage and snagging.

A poll of some of our top sailors seemed to suggest that the faster boats such as Tornados, 49ers, etc prefer wetsuits.

Sailors on more traditional boats such as 470’s and Fireballs etc prefer drysuits. A lot will also depend on the water temperature.

In warm but windy conditions I have a summer weight wetsuit.

It is available in long and short versions and I find the long more versatile.

On my feet I wear the neoprene boots with lightweight thermal socks. The boots provide second -to-none grip and are very comfortable and warm. I have recently gone up a size. I found whilst testing various types of socks that, what was making my feet cold was the fact that they were too tight and constricting blood flow. The larger size also enables me to wear them over drysuit boots.

I wear head a fleece hat or balaclava which makes a huge difference as it doesn’t absorb any water and can keep you warm when wet.

6 S E C T I O N

Latex seals on neck wrist and feat together with a fully waterproof zip mean you could go swimming in your best suit and stay dry

In the summer and early autumn, if there is little chance of capsizing I will wear the first two layers in conjunction with my two-piece waterproof dinghy system. This consists of a lightweight chest high trouser and top. It is waterproof, breathable and very flexible. Being at the drier end of the boat I will often just wear the trousers.

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Base Layer It doesn’t get much more energetic than dinghy sailing in a fresh breeze and, as mentioned in the section on breathable fabrics, in a hour of moderate exercise our bodies give off half a litre of moisture vapour. This is the body’s natural cooling system and the moisture needs to go somewhere to avoid you getting damp from the inside rather than from outside in.

In a two hour race our clothing system has a lot to cope with.

The options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings or, particularly effect for underneath drysuits, is a thermal one piece. They are made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management. You'll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

Mid Layer Again this will come down to whether you are wearing a wetsuit or not. If the answer is no then you are relying on the mid layer as the insulating layer. It is of course dependant on the temperature and the best options are the toast top and pant which is a micro fleece and gives good warmth without bulk and is excellent for wearing under a drysuit. Warmer still is the i4 fleece range. This could be a top or jacket and the salopette and doubles up on the warmer round your middle.

6 S E C T I O N

As wetsuits are not breathable a normal base layer will not help. However a Rash Vest can make the wetsuit more comfortable. It is tight fitting and quick drying.

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Waterproof layer We again come back to the question of selecting a wetsuit, drysuit or traditional waterproof layer. I outlined most of these options earlier in this section. Much will depend on the wind strength and the time of the year. For me one of the most versatile options is the dinghy system waterproof top and chest high trousers. Gill pioneered this development in 1988.

Up until then the one-piece suit was the order of the day.

Gill Dinghy system top changed the thinking behind dinghy Clothing 1

1

Soft PU seals are both comfortable and watertight 2 2

Zipped pockets can be accessed even with buoyancy aid on

Neoprene hem prevents top riding up as well as giving a good seal

It was however inflexible. It was either all on or all off. I remember noticing how some people when they got hot, slipped the one piece suit off the shoulders and tied it round the middle, which was most unsatisfactory. I also noticed that others would wear a pair of overweight chest high trousers from their offshore collection. There had to be a better way, it had to be light and easy to move around in, no more expensive than a good one-piece suit and flexible so you could wear either half on its own. The answer was to produce a pair of chest high trousers, without a fly front in the same fabric we used for making one piece suits. The top half was a simple over the head smock with adjustable soft PU cuffs and neck seal. It had taped seams so was full waterproof. It was an instant success. Some people would just buy the top to put on over a wetsuit, particularly if theirs was a sleeveless one, whilst others would just buy the trousers for warm days but most had the complete system.

S E C T I O N

6

3 3

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Pro-Choice Hugh Styles Hugh Styles and Adam May campaign a Tornado, the fastest of the Olympic Classes. They were fourth at Sydney and are currently ranked number 3 in the world.

Hugh Styles kit bag contains: Cold

Base Layer

Rash vest or cool top

Thermal top x 2

Wetsuit/Drysuit

Speed skins or Gill wetsuit

Gill Breathable Drysuit or long arm wetsuit

Waterproof Layer

Spray top (white in Athens!)

Spray top or Dry top

Footwear

Gill Aquatechs

Gill Neoprene Boots

Gloves

Championship gloves Sailing cap

Championship Base layer cap

Head gear

How important is the actual weight of the gear?

Lightweight is preferable, easier to move around in.

For certain conditions we aim to make up the weight of the clothes to the 9 kg overall clothing limit by adding weight to the harnesses or wear heavier tops for more leverage.

What is your favourite bit of kit?

The Speed Skins and the breathable drysuit.

S E C T I O N

6

Warm conditions

What to wear/Dinghy Sailing

Dinghy Product Selector Base Layer

Mid layer

Waterproof

Footwear

Accessories

Crew Neck

i4 smock

Zip neck

i4 Salopette

Breathable Drysuit A

Competition Boot

Deckhand

A,J

Regular Drysuit

A

Neoprene Boot

Regatta Glove

Leggings

A

Toasty Top

Dinghy System

A

Aquatech shoes

Championship Glove A

One Piece

Toasty Pants

Dry smock

A

3 Season Glove

Spray smock

W

Trapeze Harness Wetsuit

A

W,F

Buoyancy Aid

denotes all seasons denotes warm conditions denotes Female specific sizes available denotes Junior sizes available

For further information on your Dinghy Product selection contact a Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com/

6 S E C T I O N

A W F J

Inshore and Coastal Sailing

Type of boats Your boat is likely to be 20ft upwards and kept on a mooring or Marina berth. You will mostly likely have an open cockpit with little in the way of protection from the elements.

Duration Typically you will be a weekend sailor or grabbing the odd hour when time permits on a nice summer’s evening. You will probably cruise up and down the coast, port hopping, and on a summer vacation venturing further afield. You will usually have access to shipping forecasts and local weather reports and can often pick your trips to take place in fairer weather. Inevitably though you will get caught out at some point or face a deadline to get back to the office on Monday morning, resulting in your having to beat into a Westerly gale.

7 S E C T I O N

Inshore and Coastal Cruising Inshore and coastal sailing is by far the largest category of sailing. Marinas and moorings are full of boats ranging from 20ft upwards. These boats will cruise up and down the coast often on a day sail, occasionally port hopping and, when time permits, cruising further a field to neighbouring countries.

The objective is usually to cruise for pleasure and, in most peoples’ book, pleasure involves staying warm and dry.

I am sure you have heard the saying "Sailing can be like standing under a cold shower tearing up £10 notes".

Well it may have been once but my whole business exists around eliminating the cold shower part of the equation.

If we can keep the ocean racers dry in the Southern Ocean where surfing down 40ft waves at 25 knots and the spray or green water over the deck has enough pressure to knock you off your feet, we can certainly keep you dry cruising off the coast of Cornwall. That is not to say that the Coastal sailors are not exposed to rough weather. A full-blown gale in the English Channel is not to be taken lightly. When talking to the Volvo Ocean Race sailors, they believed the most severe conditions they experienced in the entire race were on the leg from La Rochelle to Gothenburg.

Inshore and Coastal Sailing

Base Layer I believe a base layer is important for this type of sailing, particularly if you want to get the best out of your breathable clothing. Cotton will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

Your options are to wear a crew or zip neck top and leggings.

These are made in a thermal stretch fabric, woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management. You’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer or visut gillmarine.com

The options are an i4 fleece jacket or smock and salopette or the micro fleece toasty top and pant. You might even want to consider both. In extremely cold conditions the micro fleece can be used as an additional layer or, in milder conditions, as the mid layer. More than one thermal top is always a good idea and the different weights give you added flexibility.

Page 23&24 Gill catalogue 2003 i4 fleece Toasty micro fleece

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Mid Layer This is the insulating layer and unless you are a mid-summer only sailor you will need it. Even then it is cold on the 02000600 watch. The mid layer follows the ’no cotton’ rule and is fleece based.

Inshore and Coastal Sailing

Waterproof layer There is considerable choice for the inshore and coastal sailor when it comes to the waterproof layer. For around £100 you can buy a breathable, fully waterproof, lined jacket with a hood that folds into its own fleece lined collar, with soft P.U adjustable inner cuffs and outer wrist tabs. There will also be fleece lined hand warmer pockets and a high visibility reflective strip. This will be perfectly adequate for most of your sailing. For £150 you will get similar features, a higher collar with more adjustments on the hood and the fabric will be to a generally higher specification. You can also still buy traditional PVC coated fabric waterproofs that aren’t breathable but are very durable and made to a very high standard for around £80.

This is exceptional value and makes a lot of sense if you’re providing spare sets on board for guests.

Page 10&11 Gill catalogue 2003 Inshore/Coastal Waterproofs Inshore/coastal Waterproofs For further information on your product selection contact the Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com

7 S E C T I O N

If you are a warm weather sailor only or you want a second jacket that is also suitable should you charter a yacht in the Mediterranean or Caribbean, then the Coast Lite jacket is perfect. It is fully waterproof and breathable but light enough for those warmer days and can cross over for use onshore as well.

Inshore Racing

Duration Inshore racing is day sailing and the on-water duration can range from two hours to most of the day. The difference between inshore and offshore racing is that there is usually a hot shower at the end and a change of clothing should it be needed.

Base Layer As with going cruising, the base layer is important for this type of sailing, particularly if you want to get the best out of your breathable clothing. Cotton will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

Your options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings. These are made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bipolar" system to enhance moisture vapour management.

You’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

7 S E C T I O N

Type of boats There is a wide range of boats used for inshore racing. These can be club racing boats that are predominantly cruisers but also have a handicap. It will usually be relatively tame and is for those who want to mix cruising with racing. There is also a wide range of racing classes in the 20ft to 35ft category that race round the cans or in classes, or handicap fleets. These will include the sports boat category that blurs the edges between dinghy and keelboat racing. It is athletic, exhilarating and extremely wet. Illustrated above is the Melges 24 that shows just how close to dinghy sailing this can be.

Inshore Racing

Mid Layer This is the insulating layer. The mid layer follows the ’no cotton’ rule and is fleece based. Your choice of mid layer depends on the temperatures you are sailing in and the options are similar to those available for dinghy sailors. These include a fleece top and salopette or, if you are likely to be sailing for much of the year, the Crosswind shelled mid layer that is my recommendation. It is windproof and water-resistant and can, when it is not too wet, be worn on its own. The salopette offers protection for the whole body (with the exception of the sleeves) and should be sufficient. When it’s really cold, add the jacket over the top and you should be warm in all conditions.

Page 23 Gill Catalogue 2003 Mid Layer

As the boat size increases or you need to make more room for mid layer underneath, then moving to the Coast range or Key West would be my recommendation. This gives you a high collar and hood and a fly front on the chest high trousers. The materials are slightly heavier and will be more durable Page 9,10&12 Gill catalogue 2003 Dinghy System and one design Coast Range, Key West Range For further information on your product selection contact the Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com

7 S E C T I O N

Waterproof layer The smaller and wetter the boat, the more it becomes like sailing a dinghy, with the difference being that you are unlikely to actually end up in the water, so drysuits and wetsuits are not necessary. Having sailed a Melges 24 sports boat, my preferred waterproof layer (in all but very cold weather) would be the dinghy system top and chest high trousers. They are lightweight, waterproof and breathable, and enable you to move around at speed. An alternative is to use the dry top that, in particularly wet conditions, will guarantee that no water gets down your neck and up your sleeves.

Inshore Racing

Pro-Choice Mark Rushall Mark has been sailing all his life. His on-water experiences range from being Schools Dinghy Champion, moving up to University team racing and he has been awarded National Champion status in numerous fleets. More recently Mark has moved into racing sportsboats, campaigning 1720's, the new Laser SB3 and Mumm 30's. He has also spent his working life in the marine industry with Racing Sailboats, Proctor Masts and Hyde Sails. He is held in high regard and, in what spare time he has, passes his knowledge on via the pages of Yachts & Yachting.

There is little that Mark doesn’t know about sailing and the clothing needed to keep him warm and dry.

Mid Layer Crosswind shelled mid layer top and fleece salopettes in cold conditions. In warm conditions, Crosswind top and technical shorts.

Waterproof Layer Key West breathable jacket and trousers in cold conditions and in warm I will replace the jacket with my dinghy system top.

Footwear Gill Breathable Boots and Tall Yachting Boots together with thermal arctic socks and Competition boots in warmer weather.

Gloves In cold conditions Gill 3-season gloves and in warm Gill Regatta gloves.

Head gear Gill Fleece Hat which is exceptionally comfortable as well as quick drying and in the summer the sailing cap.

7 S E C T I O N

Base Layer Base layer crew neck top and leggings in cold conditions and crew neck top and Gill technical sailing shorts in warm.

Inshore Racing

How important is the actual weight of the gear?

Not particularly in Sportsboats; freedom of movement is key for me which is something Gill is particularly good at in its designs What is your favourite bit of kit ?

Crosswind Jacket and a close second is the little duffle bag that came with the compact holdall – absolutely brilliantI can fit everything I need in it for a day’s sailing - flask, banana, munchy bar and sailing instructions.

The table over guides you through your clothing options.

Firstly, decide which category or layer you are interested in and there will usually be a choice of products to consider, depending on the climate, personal preferences and budget.

For example in the mid layer section I suggest either a conventional fleece jacket or smock, a toasty top (a micro fleece:thicker than a base layer but thinner and lighter than normal fleece)or at the top end of the scale the Crosswind shelled mid layer. They will all do the job, however the choice is yours.

7 S E C T I O N

Any interesting anecdotes relating to clothing?

In the big floods in December 2000 I paddled our Canadian canoe from 2 miles inland of the source of the Ems, all the way to the sea. Much of the river dries during the summer, but at this time it was a raging torrent! This adventure included 5 capsizes, several weirs, a tunnel under the motorway, two millponds, lots of barbed wire to name but a few. We survived thanks to our Gill boots, gloves, salopettes and trusty Crosswind smock (now looking a little dog eared as a result of the barbed wire!) We are not sure whether to attempt the Meon, the Hamble, or the Arun next time.

Offshore sailing

Cruising The offshore cruising category implies sailing further a field than the inshore or coastal sailor. You are more likely to sail all the year round with frequent long distance cruises. The garments, therefore, need to be made out of more durable fabrics with higher collars and there will be more adjustments on the hoods.

Type of boats There is nothing to stop you going offshore in any size of boat but in reality it is likely to be in the 30ft plus region. You will mostly have an open cockpit with little in the way of protection from the elements.

Base Layer Base layer is essential for this type of sailing. You are away from normal washing facilities, you are wearing waterproof clothing for long periods and you want to keep as comfortable as possible. Cotton is an absolute no-no. It will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

The options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings.

They are made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management.

You’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

8 S E C T I O N

Duration Because you could be away for days on end you need to cater for all weathers. You will also encounter much bigger seas.

Once you are out into the Atlantic waves can be 20-30ft high and when they break over you, you certainly know about it.

Offshore sailing

Mid Layer This is the insulating layer. Being away for long periods, including night sailing, there is no doubt you will need it at some point. Even in the middle of summer it is cold on the 0200-0600 watch. The mid layer follows the ‘no cotton’ rule and is fleece based.

The options are i4 fleece jacket or smock and salopette or the micro fleece toasty top and pant. You might even want to consider both. In extremely cold conditions the micro fleece can be used as an additional layer or in milder conditions as the mid layer. More than one thermal top is always a good idea and the different weights give you added flexibility.

Page 23 Gill catalogue 2003 i4 fleece, Toasty micro fleece

Finally, there is the Atlantic Jacket and if offshore cruising is going to become a regular pastime, this is the one to go for. It features a higher collar and has all the adjustments mentioned above. The fabric is three layer and breathable which means it is more durable.

Page 8 Gill catalogue 2003 Offshore Waterproofs

8 S E C T I O N

Waterproof layer With Offshore sailing you could be on deck for long periods of time, and what you need is a high fleece lined collar that can give you good protection even when the hood is not up. Ideally the collar should just cover the tops of your ears. The hood should have ample adjustment. With all the flaps closed it will only be your eyes and nose exposed. There are three main options in the Offshore Cruising section and the main differences are down to cost and durability. If you are trying to limit the overall spend perhaps so you can widen the product selection, the Southern Cross range should be considered. It is made in a traditional PVC coated fabric and is not breathable.

Having said that it has a very high feature level and is exceptionally durable. The Key West is made to the same specification but is in a breathable fabric.

Offshore Racing

For the Offshore Racer one significant difference is that the hot shower will not be there at the end of the day. More all round protection is needed and there could be frequent night passages where it can be pretty cold at two AM sitting on the rail as you beat into a westerly gale, even in the middle of summer. Whilst weight is important the usage is likely to be more arduous than inshore sailing so durability becomes more of a factor.

Type of boats You could be racing in anything from a 20ft (check) Mini Transat boat to an open 60 or more. The one thing that they all have in common is they are wet, very wet, and they will be driven hard whichever direction the race takes you.

Base Layer A base layer is essential for this type of sailing when you are away from normal washing facilities, you are wearing waterproof clothing for long periods and you want to keep as dry next to the skin as possible. As covered in the Offshore cruising section, the base layer garments are made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management. You’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

Forget cotton. It will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

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Duration You could be on anything from an overnight race to Cherbourg to a Fastnet or more. Typically races of two to ten days

Offshore Racing

Mid Layer When it comes to mid layer garments, you are looking for extra warmth and also something that gives you flexibility.

Most skippers put a limit on the gear you can take with you so a garment needs to do as many jobs as possible. The Crosswind shelled fleece jacket and salopette does exactly that. It is warm, windproof and water- resistant and in some conditions can be worn on its own. If weight, space and budget permits I would also go for the Toasty top for additional flexibility. It is a heavy base layer or light mid layer whichever way you look at it.

Page 23 Gill catalogue 2003 Mid Layer, Toasty micro fleece

If budget permits there is no reason why you should not use the Ocean Racer range featured in the next section.

Page 7 & 8 Gill catalogue 2003 Offshore Waterproofs For further information on your product selection contact the Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com/

8 S E C T I O N

Waterproof layer When offshore racing you could be on deck or on the rail for long periods of time, and what you need is a high fleece lined collar that can give you good protection even when the hood isn’t up. Ideally the collar should just cover the tops of your ears. And the hood should have ample adjustment. With all the flaps closed it will only be your eyes and nose exposed. The best choice is the Atlantic Jacket. It features a higher collar and more adjustable hood than most other garments and the fabric is a three layer fabric which means it is more durable.

Offshore Racing

Pro-Choice

Ross’s kit bag contains: Base Layer "Gill base layer crew neck and trousers in for wearing in all conditions. The main issue is not to wear any cotton underneath as it totally negates the breathable system."

Mid Layer "Crosswind jacket and salopette. In warm conditions, only the salopette."

Waterproof Layer "Atlantic Trousers and Keelboat Smock. Worn in almost all conditions - only removed when wind is light or flat water Mollymawk is very wet when powered up!"

8 S E C T I O N

Ross Hobson Winner of the 2002 Round Britain and Ireland Race Ross has been associated with Gill since 1998 (check). By day he is a senior Lecturer in Orthodontics at Newcastle Dental School. He has been sailing since boyhood and racing offshore competitively since he was teenager. He has won the Round Britain and Ireland Race twice plus many other Multihull Grand Prix races. I have sailed with Ross for a day during Cowes Week and the boat is exceedingly wet and very fast and makes my National 12 seem very tame in comparison.

Offshore Racing

Footwear "Breathable boots with gaiters. No socks unless very, very cold".

Gloves "Warm - short fingered Regatta gloves. Cold - long fingered Regatta gloves when sail handling. When helming in cold conditions- Helmsman’s gloves" Head gear "Base layer hat or fleece hat (both when cold)" How important is the actual weight of the gear?

"Low - main importance is keeping the water out - especially at leg/boot, neck and cuffs".

What is your favourite bit of kit?

"Gill Breathable boots - Rolls Royce, the dog's B******'s etc - I would not go to sea without them" "A close second is my Gill Fleece Blanket - magic for sleeping under when on standby in the wet berth with full kit on "

S E C T I O N

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Ocean Sailing

Cruising More and more people today are sailing further afield. It could be fulfilling a life long dream to sail your way round the world or to take part in one of the many blue water rallies where you can cruise in company reasonably secure in the knowledge that help will not be too far away. A good friend of mine from Nottingham did just that. He sold his business, bought a suitable 60ft boat and set off around the world. When I asked him if he had come across another friend doing the same thing, he said "oh yes, in fact I had to rescue her when her boat sank having hit a whale."

Type of boats When you are sailing across cceans it will normally be in a boat of 35ft plus, although there is nothing to stop you sailing in any size boat. You may well have an open cockpit with little in the way of protection from the elements.

Base Layer A base layer is essential for this type of sailing when you are away from normal washing facilities and you are wearing waterproof clothing for long periods and want to keep as comfortable as possible. Cotton is an absolute no-no, it will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

The options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings.

They are made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management. You'll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm.

It is also very quick drying.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

9 S E C T I O N

Duration You could be away for weeks on end so you need to cater for all weathers. You cannot sail around storms; it is a case of batten down the hatches and make sure you have your foul weather gear at the ready. You will also encounter much bigger seas. Once you are out into the Atlantic waves can be 20-30ft high and when they break over you, you certainly know about it.

Ocean Sailing

Mid Layer This is the insulating layer and with being away for long periods and night sailing there is no doubt you will need it at some point. Even in the middle of summer it is cold on the 0200-0600 watch. The mid layer follows the ’no cotton’ rule and is fleece based.

The options are i4 fleece jacket or smock and salopette or for additional protection the shelled fleece Crosswind range.

This is like a traditional fleece garment with a windproof and water resistant fabric on the outside. The salopettes give you complete leg and body protection and when worn with the jacket give double insulation around the middle. Being away for long periods you may want to consider both which will give you added flexibility.

Page 23 & 24 Gill catalogue 2003 i4 fleece, Mid Layer, Toasty micro fleece

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Waterproof layer With Ocean sailing you will be on deck for long periods of time, and what you need is a high fleece lined collar that can give you good protection even when the hood is not up. Ideally the collar should just cover the tops of your ears. And the hood should have ample adjustment. With all the flaps closed it will only be your eyes and nose that exposed.

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First there is the Atlantic range which features the high collar and adjustments mentioned above. Being a three layer breathable fabric it is exceptionally durable and will withstand being worn for long periods.

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2

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High collar gives protection above the ears Chin flap is fleece lines for comfort and will completely cover the mouth and nose

Two simple auto-lock toggles make adjusting the hood fit of the hood easy

If you are looking for the ultimate protection and can afford to spend a little more then I would go for the Ocean Racer Suit.

This product is described in the next section on Ocean Racing on Page 45 Page 7 & 8 Gill catalogue 2003 Offshore/ Ocean Waterproofs

S E C T I O N

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Ocean Racing

When I use the term ‘Ocean Racing’, I am referring to those of you who race over a long period of time using your gear day in and day out. Weight will be critical, as will freedom of movement. It is not only that the garments must be as light as possible whilst still being tough enough for the job, but you may only be allowed a limited number of products. Conrad Humphreys allowed his crew on LG Flatron, winner of the BT Global Challenge, 8kg for clothing and personal effects. All this had to fit in a small holdall. Not much for a trip around the world!

Protection against the elements needs to be at a maximum, as does durability and breathability. One day you could be in the Southern Ocean in near freezing conditions and a few weeks later in the tropical heat of the equatorial regions.

We understand this is as tough as it can get and the gear needs to be the very best.

Type of boats You could be racing in anything from a 21ft Mini Transat boat to an Open 60 or larger. The one thing that they all have in common is they are wet, very wet, and they will be driven hard whichever direction the race takes you.

Duration Ocean-going races usually last a minimum of one week or could, as in the case of the BT Global Challenge or the Volvo Ocean Race, take the best part of a year. You need to be fully prepared before you set off. You wont be allowed to take much so it needs to be the right gear.

S E C T I O N

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Ocean Racing

Base Layer Base layer is essential for this type of sailing, you are away from normal washing facilities, and you are wearing clothing for long periods and want to keep as dry next to the skin as possible. As covered in the Offshore cruising section base layer is made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management. You’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm.

It is also very quick drying.

Cotton is an absolute ‘no-no’. It will soak up moisture and sweat and stay damp for the duration of the trip.

The options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

23 Gill catalogue 2003 Mid Layer, Toasty micro fleece Waterproof layer When you are surfing down 40ft waves at 25 knots in the Southern Ocean the performance of the waterproof layer is crucial and, just like the boats themselves that have got lighter and faster, so has the waterproof clothing improved.

In the past Ocean Gear used to be about bells and whistles and heavy-duty fabrics. The more gizmos the garment had the more you felt you could justify the price. Having worked very closely with John Kostecki and the crew of illbruck for over three years, we learned a completely new way of thinking.

The water resistant zip does away with the need for bulky Velcro flaps that adds to weight and reduces breathability.

9 S E C T I O N

Mid Layer For your mid layer you are looking for extra warmth in a garment that can also give you flexibility. Most skippers put a limit on the gear you can take with you so a garment needs to do as many jobs as possible. The Crosswind shelled fleece jacket and salopette does exactly that. It is warm, windproof and water-resistant and in some conditions can be worn on its own. If weight, space and budget permits I would also go for the Toasty top for additional flexibility. It is a heavy base layer or a light mid layer whichever way you look at it.

Ocean Racing

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The jacket features reflective prisms on arms, shoulders and hood

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A Kevlar® trim round the cuff avoids wear

They were interested in a garment that weighed as little as possible and breathed as much as possible. Crew speed and performance was crucial.

With the new Ocean range we use a three layer breathable fabric; because it was three layer we could do away with the need for a lining. We then set about reducing weight. All unnecessary flaps and pockets were removed and lighter fabrics were used where there wouldn’t be wear. Likewise, heavier fabrics were applied where there would be more wear, such as the seat and knees. For example, we were able to remove the pocket flaps for example by introducing a new water resistant zip, It was every bit as watertight as a series of Velcro flaps and not only was it lighter but, by reducing the overlays would improve breathability. We also found a way to make the hood come out of the top of the collar rather than at the neck seam. This again reduces fabric usage and at the same time makes the hood fit better.

3

A soft P.U inner cuff ensures a good seal

4

Kevlar® material on the back of the jacket gives extra protection on this vulnerable area.

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In many cases it was only a bit of fabric here and there but it all adds up and the garment at the end of the day weighs approximately 25% less using an equivalent fabric. Also the breathability of the garment, as opposed to the breathability of the fabric, has improved. All the essential features such as a collar that covers the ears, a hood that gives you all-round vision and an internal dry pocket are there. Arms and legs are articulated to avoid unnecessary strain. The three year development programme and a 39,000 mile race test bed has, I believe, produced the best and most complete waterproof jacket and trousers on the market. It is certainly the best product Gill has produced in its 25-year history. Because it is light and comfortable you would not be out of place wearing it in any form of keelboat sailing. This was certainly not the case with earlier Ocean products.

Page 7 Gill catalogue 2003 Offshore Waterproofs

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The hood design is ground breaking, it features a water resistant zip to keep the hood stowed, and this reduces bulk and weight. The hood begins at the line of the zip instead of at the neck seam again reducing unnecessary fabric

For further information on your product selection contact a Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com/

S E C T I O N

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Ocean Racing

Pro-Choice

He has also launched his Vendée Globe 2004 campaign to sail solo and non-stop around the world in the 'Everest' of Ocean races. In June 2002. Conrad signed a deal with Gill to supply all his technical clothing requirements to see him through his race campaign leading up to and including the Vendée; the first real test is this November's Route du Rhum on an Open 40 ‘Hellomoto’ during which he wore our new Ocean Racer range.

Base Layer "Gill base layer crew neck and trousers" Mid Layer "Crosswind jacket and salopettes" Waterproof Layer "Bowman's smock for all the reasons we have already discussed, Trouser must have a pocket" Footwear "Gill breathable boots". – How important is the actual weight of the gear?

"On the BT race bulk was critical as well as weight, everyone was restricted to 8kg per person."

What is your favourite bit of kit?

"Gill Bowman's Smock, we were the only team in the BTGC to kit out our entire crew in Gill Bowman's smocks.

It made a difference."

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Conrad Humphreys Skipper of LG Flatron (Winner of the 2000/1 BT Global Challenge) Since leading LG Flatron to victory in the 2002/01 BT Global Challenge Race, 29 year-old Conrad Humphreys has clocked up over 12,000nm racing in two of the fastest Open 60s on the planet.

Ocean Racing

As we go to print news has just come in that Conrad Humphries has been dismasted in Hellomoto, whilst competing in the route du Rhum race. He was battling through a storm in the bay of Biscay that decimated much of the fleet and was the nineteenth yacht to have to pull out due to storm damage.

Whilst he limped back to Brest under jury rig he still found time to e-mail back the following report.

Conrad

9 S E C T I O N

In the midst of this major failure during the Route du Rhum, one thing has really kept my spirits high and that is the quality of your new Ocean range.

The fact that I have not taken either my boots or my foulie trousers off since the start is testament to how comfortable they are and how light and easy they feel to work in. During the first few days of this race, the fabric has been subjected to just about every test including getting covered in diesel and hydraulic oil. You should be proud of such a great product and chuffed to know that by striving out to make these leaps in clothing design, your efforts have been a total success."

Power Cruising and Boating

When you talk about power boating and motor cruising in the company of a group of sailors they will inevitably suggest that they don’t need foul weather gear because when it gets wet they can go below. Well they can, but they don’t have to.

Having been out to the start of the Round Gotland Race in Sandheim on the edge of the beautiful Stockholm archipelago in a Fairline 60, I experienced first hand just how wet it can be powering over a confused sea at 25 knots. Also, many boats are completely open to the elements and it doesn’t get much wetter than driving a RIB.

Duration On an open boat you are only likely to be out for the day but there is still plenty of opportunity to get wet and cold. You can spend a lot of time sitting so the need for thermals and mid layer can be just as great as when you are sailing.

Base Layer Wearing a base layer is not as essential for this type of boating in the same way as it is for more energetic and athletic sailing; you are unlikely to generate as much moisture. However, as a thermal layer it has no equal and cotton should still be avoided. Base layer is made in a thermal stretch fabric woven in a two yarn "bi-polar" system to enhance moisture vapour management; you’ll find the fabric moves moisture away from the skin and traps air in the weave to keep you warm. It is also very quick drying.

The options are a crew or zip neck top and leggings and, for RIB driving, a one piece thermal suit can be worn under a drysuit.

Page 22 Gill catalogue 2003 Gill Base layer

10 S E C T I O N

Type of boats If you have been to a major boat show anywhere in the World, you will be only too aware of the importance of power boats to the marine industry. The choice is vast as is the price differential. The smaller and more open the boats, the greater the need for some performance clothing.

Power Cruising and Boating

Mid Layer This is the insulating layer and is fleece based. Your options include i4 fleece jacket or smock, or the micro fleece Toasty top and pant. Whilst these are technical products they have been thoughtfully styled to comfortably and fashionably wear ashore as well as afloat. If you are driving a RIB or are going to be out in particularly cold weather, the Crosswind shelled fleece should be considered. This is fleece based with a windproof and water resistant outer fabric, is excellent when travelling at speed and when you don’t need full specification wet weather gear.

Page 23 & 24 Gill catalogue 2003 i4 fleece, Mid Layer, Toasty micro fleece

The Coast Lite Jacket offers full

If you are looking for something more for all weathers then the Coast jacket offers a slightly heavier fabric, is longer and has one or two more features e.g. inner storm cuffs and reflective patches. It is an excellent all-round jacket, not looking out of place in the town and country as well as on board.

waterproof protection in a light weight jacket that can be worn off and on the boat.

If you are looking for more flexible all-weather protection, the Coast jacket provides a slightly heavier fabric, is longer and has one or two more features e.g. inner storm cuffs and reflective patches, It is an excellent all round jacket and looks as good on shore as it does on board.

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Waterproof layer There is a huge choice of wet weather protection when it comes to the power and general boating category. Much depends on the range of temperatures you are likely to encounter. In mild climates or for summer use, a lightweight jacket in a breathable fabric is ideal. If it really is for occasional use and you are not looking for a fully waterproof garment then the Gill Island jacket is adequate. The next step up adds fully taped seams, a hood and a storm flap over the zip.

Power Cruising and Boating

We then move on to fleece lined deck coats. These are available in different lengths and fabrics and are an excellent way of combining a waterproof garment with a warm jacket.

Driving a RIB through big seas at 20 knots can be as wet as sailing an Open 60 in the Southern Ocean and the clothing requirements are not dissimilar. A full drysuit gives the most complete protection having the benefit of latex seals. If more conventional two piece waterproofs are preferred then the Gill Ocean Racer would be ideal.

See pages 7,10, 11,13, 26 & 27of Gill 2003 Catalogue For further information on your product selection contact the Gill Technical Clothing Specialist on 01159 460844 Or e-mail TCS@gilluk.com Or visit www.gillmarine.com/ S E C T I O N

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Gill Product Selector and What to Wear Guide

Power & General Boating

Rib Driving

Base Layer Crew Neck Zip neck i4 Leggings Toasty Top Toasty Pants

Mid layer i4 Jacket smock Coast

As above +

Waterproof Coast Lite

A,W A,F A A A W

Blizzard Jacket Breaker Jacket Crew Jacket Island Jacket Crosswind Jacket Ocean Racer A

Footwear Tall Boots Short boot

Accessories Deckhand Glove A,C Helmsman Glove A,C Hats & Socks A Holdalls

Tall Boots

Helmsman Glove A,C

Short boot

Gill Drysuits Hats & Socks Holdalls

one piece Crosswind Salopette

A W F J

denotes all seasons denotes warm conditions denotes Female specific sizes available denotes Junior sizes available

A A

Glossary of Terms

Breathability - Breathability is expressed as the amount of water vapour passing through an area of fabric over a given time. It can also be referred to as Moisture Vapour Permeability. (MVP) Chessie Racing - A Whitbread 60 yacht entered in the 1997/8 Whitbread Round the World Race. It was owned by George Collins and was the only private entry. They came 6th overall and could have had a podium finish but for a poor last leg from La Rochelle to Southampton.

High tenacity - Much of the strength of the fabric comes from the strength of the yarns itself. High tenacity yarns are particularly good against abrasion.

Hydrophilic - Having an affinity to water and is generally referred to as a type of breathable coating system and an alternate to microporous.

Hydrophobic - Means water fearing or water repelling. illbruck - A Volvo 60 boat and winner of the 2001/2 Volvo Ocean Race. Owned by German industrialist Michael illbruck.

Martindale - The name of a piece of textile testing equipment that is used to test the abrasion resistance of a fabric. It is used on both the coated and exterior surfaces and simulates abrasion in a natural and uneven way.

Microporous - ‘Micro porous’ is the term used for a fabric coating or film that has microscopic holes or pores that are large enough to let moisture vapour through but small enough to keep water molecules out.

11 S E C T I O N

Hydrostatic Head - The term used for measuring the fabric’s resistance to water pressure. It is usually measured in terms of the vertical height of a column of the liquid needed to produce the same pressure. It is measured in column centimetres and could be referred to for example as 500cm.

Glossary of Terms

PU - PU is short for ‘polyurethane’, a popular coating material.

Wicking - A wicking fabric or fibre is one that conveys moisture or a liquid by capillary action. Normally used in base layers as a means for moving moisture away from the body.

RE - A test method for breathable fabrics performed by the Hochenstein Institute in Germany. The test attempts to simulate the heat and moisture transport processes occurring next to the skin. The test is performed at 35 degrees C at 40% humidity and tends to favour microporous fabrics.

BS 7209 - A test method for breathable fabrics that measures the evaporation of water over a given time at 20°C/65% humidity. This method is preferred by Gill because of its similarity to Marine environments.

S E C T I O N

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Postscript

Rather than viewing this as the end of my first attempt at researching and writing a Gill clothing guide, I see this as only the beginning. This is the beginning of a new process of advising our customers on the gear they need. It’s all about what works and what doesn't. it’s about demystifying some of the technical processes and the jargon and hype involved. This new media format allows me to easily update the information as designs, fabrics and new options come on stream.

Gill has been built up from a platform of offering excellent customer service, whether it be to the retailer or to the end user. We are continuously looking for ways to improve and we always aim to be straight and honest. This is one reason for being unhappy with the premium prices of some branded fabrics and the consequent high end cost of the garments.

I hope you find this Guide useful. Please feel free to e-mail any suggestions, anecdotes or tips regarding sailing kit to me at ngill100@btinternet.com as the more I hear from others, the better this guide will become. Also, if you have any questions, call our main number and our technical clothing specialists will help you. If they don't know the answer they won’t rest until they find someone who does before getting back to you.

Nick Gill November 2002

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Even after 25 years in the industry, hardly a day goes by when I don't learn something new. Only this week, a Japanese fabric supplier was explaining a new technical coating process to me. Many of us in the business are regular sailors and, as a starting point, we’re always looking for ways to improve the products we wear and improve our performance. It has often been said that I would win a lot more races if I concentrated more on what the sails were doing and less on what I was wearing and how I could improve it. Old habits die hard and it is probably too late for me to change my ways now.