issue 93, october 2011, the occupy issue
panis etcircenses douglas nietzke photographed by zee nunes , styling by daniel ueda
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No one needs to be a social genius to detect some serious disfunction in today’s society. The protests in Britain last november against a raise in tuition fees, the Arab Spring, this summer’s London riots, a march pro-freedom of expression in São Paulo, a silent protest against homophobic violence in the same city, and more recently the Protest Against Wall Street in New York and Washington. All these events are clear signs that something is not working _extre‑ me and increasing income inequality, one of the highest unemployment rates among young people and newly gradua‑ tes, and a growing difficulty in university and education access. They might all be fighting for different causes (sometimes very specific ones) and not always in the best and most effective ways. But at least they’re fighting _and not apathetically accommodated. These are individuals refusing to sit back and let the richest 1% of the world tell them what their dreams and aspirations should be, nor how to live a proper life. These are individuals refusing to be the excluded or explored part of society ruled by the current system. These are individuals wanting to have their (plural) voices heard, and noticed _and not only when violence calls attention to their forgotten communities. These are individuals who have just realized that no one is quite individual. Events like this are good reminder that we are not alone and that there is more to life than the tiny bubble universe created around our very selfs. If the whole concept of a global community is real applicable, we should stop thinking the the only link between ourselves and rest of the world is only our Facebook wall. by luigi torre fashion editor
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could you tell us about your beginning as an artist? In 2004 I organized a graffiti action where street artists painted at the Museum of Contemporary Art for the first time in Russia. My research in street subculture I started with the introduction to the power structures (as the main enemy of subculture). I made the video in the prosecutor’s office, also at the training base for police. It was made by a hidden ca‑ mera. Then I went to the Moscow Institute of Contemporary Art. I was the youngest student there. I think there I realized who I am. My idea of art has changed. It was divided into before and after studying there. could you tell us a little about your creative process? My creative process is linked to observation (watching). I’m in a street subculture, I communicate and interact, I ask ques‑ tions. My projects are answers to them. When I do perfor‑ mances, the actors are the guys from the streets. They don’t know what art is. They have no concepts. It’s really important for me. The viewer never draws attention to the boys in their lives. It’s a clash! Experience and process are basic for me. My hero has to be in the moment / here and now. It’s like a rebirth. When I shoot video, I move away from life. I become an observer. But I’m still into the situation. I don’t manipulate. Reality looks through me. what are you reading at the moment? Now I am reading “Performance art: from Futurism to the Present” by Roselee Goldberg! In general, I like to read philosophy, especially the French. I love. Gilles Deleuze’s books for example. My website has a section called “Inspira‑ tion”. I often add new names to it. Of course, in my list I have Larry Clark, Wolfgang Tillmans, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring. I was fortunate to work with the curator Francesco Bonami _for me it’s a cult person who created my favorite book “The Fourth Sex”. what artists and things inspire you the most? Among photographers I love Kevin Amato. I’m inspired by movies! I like James Bolton, Harmony Korine, ukrainian filmmaker Alexander Shapiro, Khotinenko with his film “Odys‑ sey 1989”. But my main inspiration is the street subculture! I listen russian rap and on this wave I create my work. My friends who make hip hop music or ride on skateboards or just create clothing as designers inspire me the most! and what about your future projects? Now I’m doing sound performances in the group 85/91. I’m going to St. Petersburg for festival VIDEOFORMA (29-30 oc‑ tober). I’ll be there to show one of our sound performances. ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ october 2011 | u_mag
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TOM BOY __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________
“Ifyou don’t stand forsome thing you willfall foranyt hing”
PHOTOGRAPHED AND STYLED BY MARCIO BANFI
Beleza: Agnes Mamede (CAPA Mgt) Modelos: Gabriela reck, Julia gubert, Karini, Nathalia Schafer @ WAY
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Jeans by Dirk Bikkenberg
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Vintage denim by Diesel Industry Denim Division
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DANIEL NIETZKE @ FORD/L’EQUIPE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ZEE NUNES
BEAUTY BY ROBERT ESTEVÃO PHOTO ASSISTANT: Sandor Kiss FASHION PRODUCTION BY Vinicius Ienzura, Joana Wood AND Juliana Carvalho BEAUTY ASSISTANT: Bruno EXECUTIVE PRODUCER: BIll MacIntYre IMAGE TREATMENT BY THIAGO AUGÊ
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Camisa, Ellus, trench, Alcacuz, short, Joao Pimenta, gravata e suspensorio, A La Garconne, cinto e sapato, Herchcovitch;Alexandre e pulseira Camaleo.
FASHION EDITION BY DANIEL UEDA,
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Camisa, Reserva, blazer, Herchcovitch;Alexandre, colete e faixa Joao Pimenta, Bermuda, Ellus, saia, Tufi Duek, gravata, A La Garconne, colar, Diferenza e sapato Tng.
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Camisa, Colcci, jaqueta, Adidas, camisetao, Triton, saia e legging, Tufi Duek, chapeu, E-Holic, gravata borboleta, A La Garconne e sapato Cavalera.
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Blusa, Blue Man, fraque, Joao Pimenta, colete, Marcelo Ferraz, calca, Adi e gravata A La Garconne october 2011 | u_mag
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Camisa Ellus, colete, Heloisa Faria, blazer e faixa, Joao Pimenta, saia longa, Chritine Ban, saia quadriculada, Left, saia micanga, Tufi Duek, chapeu, E-Holic, colar, Lazara Design, sandalia Ellus e meias acervo.
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Camisa, Ellus, trench, Alcacuz, short, Joao Pimenta, gravata e suspensorio, A La Garconne, cinto e sapato , Herchcovitch;Alexandre e pulseira Camaleo. october 2011 | u_mag
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Camisa, Mandi, camiseta tela, New Order, colete, calca e sapato Herchcovitch;Alexandre, gravata A La Garconne, saia, Triton, relogio, Nixon, pulseira Camaleoa e meias acervo.
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luiz leite, amapô, juss, danilo costa, der metropol and joão pimenta photogra phed by hugo toni
model: leonardo alberici @ way fashion production by brisa issa workds by luigi torre and rafael carvalho ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________
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Jasper wears Ksubi shorts, Ksubi top, Vanishing Elephant jacket, Supreme Hat, Zora Boyd at Wunderkammer Rings (worn throughout) and own rings.
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Photographed by JAMES MUNRO Fashion edition by IMOGEN WILSON Fashion Assistant: LEAH NETTEN Hair & Makeup by DAISY UFFINDELL Photography assistant by KITTY RIDDELL Model: JASPER SEVEN @ CLYNE ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________
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Stolen Girlfriends Club vest and vanishing elephant pants. Zora Boyd at Wunderkammer Rings (worn throughout) and own rings.
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Jasper wears vanishing elephant shirt, ksubi shorts, own shoes, Zora Boyd at Wunderkammer Rings (worn throughout) and own rings. 76
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Stolen Girlfriends club jeans, Ksubi jacket, Doc Martens, Own glasses, Zora Boyd at Wunderkammer Rings (worn throughout) and own rings.
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Ksubi pants, Vanishing Elephant shirt, Stolen Girlfriends Club jacket, Supreme Hat, Doc Martens, Zora Boyd at Wunderkammer Rings (worn throughout) and own rings.
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Quilted Cape & Trousers by Alexandria Paton Shirt by Rose Dent
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Handprinted Coat by Rose Dent, Mask jumper by Alexandria Paton 82
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Shirt by Alexandria Paton Shorts by Rose Dent
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T-shirt & handprinted jacket by Rose Dent Trousers by Alexandria Paton
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T-shirt by Rose Dent Trousers by Alexandria Paton
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Handprinted Coat by Rose Dent, Mask jumper by Alexandria Paton
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TIMO WEILAND blue and white polka dot shirt PETROU/MAN denim shirt
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TOPSHOP bow tie PETROU/MAN pants FLORSHEIM BY DUCKIE BROWN shoes
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TIMO WEILAND shirt PETROU/MAN shirt
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PETROU/MAN vest BESPOKEN blazer BESPOKEN trousers october 2011 | u_mag
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TIMO WEILAND shirt BESPOKEN blazer PETROU/MAN pants FLORSHEIM BY DUCKIE BROWN
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PETROU/MAN shirt BESPOKEN pants
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Colbert: Cold Method Cardigan: Cold Method Pants: Diesel Black gold Shirt: Hugo Boss
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All Zegna
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Hackett London
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Coubert: Hans Ubbink Pants: Hans Ubbink Top: Fred Perry
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Shirt: Ted Baker
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All hugo Boss
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Pants Van Gils Coubert Van gils Top: Fred Perry
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Without revolutionary theorythere canbeno revolutionary movement
photography ROGÉRIO CAVALCANTI STYLIng by JULIANO PESSOA E ZUEL FERREIRA PRODUÇÃO DE MODA: MATHEUS MIRANDA MAKE AND HAIR by CRIS BIATO image treatment by JORGE ESCUDEIRO models: leonardo alberici @ way Daniel Ferreira way @ way jaqueline medeiros @ ford ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________ ________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ october 2011 | u_mag
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guilty isa useless emotion bypablo saborido, hair/make -up by helder rodrigues model: daniel ferreira @ way photographed by pablo saborido
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THE INTENSE photo GRAPHED BY Catalina Bartolome Styling BY Franqui Nencini
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Make up &Hair BY Sofia Orsay RETOUCHING BY MELVIN
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U+MAG OCTOBER 2011 ISSUE 93 CREATIVE DIRECTOR & FOUNDER: Romeu Silveira / romeu@umagmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: André Rodrigues / andre@umagmag.com FASHION EDITIOR: Luigi Torre / luigi@umagmag.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Rafael Carvalho / rafael@umagmag.com ART DIRECTOR: Romeu Silveira FASHION PRODUCER: Brisa Issa TYPEFACE: Perla & Helvetica
BEAUTY CONTRIBUTORS Helder Rodrigues Agnes Mamede Robert Estevão Cris Biato Chantal Van Gogh Coleen Runne Daisy Uffindell
PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTORS Zee Nunes Hugo Toni Marco Van Rijt India Hobson Andrea Vecchiato Marcio Banfi Renie Saliba Rogerio Cavalcanti Pablo Saborido Catalina Bartolome James Munro FASHION CONTRIBUTORS Daniel Ueda Imogen Wilson Franquii Nencini Juliano Pessoa & Zuel Ferreira Viktoria Kravtsova Jonathan Hamilt Victor Alex Chavagme
umagmag.com contact@umagmag.com BRAZIL, 2011
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issue 93, october 2011, the occupy issue
panis etcircenses douglas nietzke photographed by zee nunes , styling by daniel ueda 184
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