Un raveling the Thr e a d s of LA's Apparel Manufacturing Industry Proceeds of $100 dress
th e
th e
ISSUE
CONTEXT
Retailer - $50
the
Manufacturer - $35
R E S U LT S
Contractor - $15 Garment Worker - $6
P ro b l e m S t a t e m e n t
P ro j e c t G o a l
G ro u n d R e a l i t i e s
While apparel manufacturing has largely been outsourced to low-cost countries, certain factors have allowed the industry to continue to thrive in Los Angeles County. What are these factors, who are the main stakeholders, and what does their relatinship mean for LA’s future? Spatial Overivew
Through interviews with various indusry stakeholders and analyzing primary employment data, I explore the main players in this industry, unearth their challenges, successes, and propose solutions to make the industry better for manufacturers, retailers, workers, and the city, overall. K e y P l ay e r s
According to OSHA, the garment industry had the most violations in 2012 (poor ventilation, locked work areas, blocked exits, and dangerous working areas). As many as 1/3 of firms are unregistered.
Source: Elizabeth Weiner and Dean Froust, 1988
The City places greater prefence on supporting major LA-based retailers and creating high-skilled jobs in the industry. Labor and workplace violations are largely ignored. Manufacturers, designers, and industry advocates lament the lack of support from the city, internal politics and secrecy within industry, and a shortage of adaquate skilled training.
Background
Apparel Workers
Establishments
43,800
2,375
$
Total Output
Total Exports
$4.7 B
$8.4 M
Spurred by retailers’ demands to provide more clothes at bargain prices, manufacturers must fill more orders at shorter lead times, the burden felt most by workers. I n d u s t r y S t re n g t h Industry Employment 1990 - 2012 (thousands)
the
the
CONCLUSION
FUTURE
1,200 1,000
P ro d u c t S e g m e n t a t i o n
800 600 400 200 0
LA County
United States
The industry is 11 times more concentrated in LA than the national average, and employment has remained relatively constant despite an overall national decrease. Alina Din / MURP 2014
Trends in production continue to follow the mantra of “cheaper and faster.” Affordability continues to dominate consumer preference. LA utilizes high quality, detailed handcraft, and fast turnaround to stay profitable.
Fair wage labels on products. City should aid in making industry more cohesive, integrated, and promote small businesses. Building up the “Made in LA” brand Greater technological investments to encourage healthy competiveness.
Adviser: Goetz Wolff / Client: The Garment Worker Center