Fast Fashion's Tipping Point

FAST FASHION’S

TIPPING POINT

Consumers can credit the rise of fast fashion to brands like Zara and H&M. The latter created a global initiative, The Garment Collection Program, in which people drop off unwanted clothes into the store’s recycling box in exchange for a 15%-off coupon. H&M then sends the clothes to a recycling plant and sorts it by hand, according to the company’s website.

Although fast fashion has picked up steam over the years thanks to online fashion websites such as Shein, Romwe and Princess Polly, it seems like the movement may finally be running into some roadblocks.

story by Jacqueline Saguin photos by Jane Pham

People are waking up to the fact that they can’t throw clothes away forever. Actions, meet consequences. Industries like fast fashion pave the way for cheap clothing that only lasts a few wears. According to a 2016 study by Bard College, it’s disposable clothing that contributes toward natural resource depletion.

The term “fast fashion” refers to an approach to the design, creation and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers, according to the Merriam-Webster definition. This business model replicates runway trends in a fast, disposable manner. It appeals to big name companies because of its quick mass production turnaround at low prices. However, the cost is cheap labor, environmental harm and poor clothing quality.

The fashion analysis study from Bard College underlined the fashion industry’s large carbon footprint, which isn’t talked about often. Fast fashion’s products are made almost entirely from plastic fibers. These materials require a great amount of energy to produce, and they pollute the air with harmful chemicals. The Environmental Protection Agency considers these factories hazardous, which moves production to underdeveloped countries, according to the study.

China accounts for about 30% of the world’s apparel exports, making it a key player in the fast fashion game. And the country’s high rates of water and air pollution are no secret. This is why the power lies with the consumer and what they want.

“We live in a capitalistic society,” the study said. “The industry does not have to address the environment, as it is unlikely that the industry will change unless the consumers’ preferences change.”

Take a peek at Forever 21’s website, and about 10 sale offers flash across the screen, pleading for people to shop now: “Free shipping for orders $21 and up;” “Extra 50% off;” “Pick your deal!”

One of fashion’s fastest growing retailers, Forever 21 filed for bankruptcy on Sept. 29. The company announced in a letter to its customers that its operations would continue as normal, but the company planned to close a number of stores.

And the dominoes fall. The public’s opinion on fast fashion is shifting.

Steve Nichtberger, who started Flashbacks Recycled Fashion in 1986, said he can’t tell whether people buy clothes from his thrift store just because it’s “trendy” or because young people are making the conscious decision toward bettering the environment.

But, the owner of the Gainesville clothing staple said he sees all levels of society, young and old alike, showing an increased awareness toward their buying habits. In 2019, people bring in reusable bags and understand why someone would ask whether they want paper or plastic. It’s a message Nichtberger tried to convey for years.

“In the ‘80s, I’d ask people if they needed a bag, stressing the word ‘need,’” he said. “People would look at [me] like, ‘What do you mean? A bag is part of the sale.’ Now, it’s a whole different world.”

A local reuse center in Gainesville, the Repurpose Project, restores life to products people don’t think twice about throwing away like an extra button or a broken doorknob. The nonprofit’s co-founder, Sarah Goff, promotes this as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion.

“It’s so easy to get lost in the depths of what business is ethical or what product is more environmentally friendly,” Goff said, “But one sure bet is purchasing something used. It has already been manufactured, and it is already in your local community.”

This avoids giving money to the manufacturers who make clothing for cheap. Instead, it redirects the money to a local store, which usually has a noble mission to help people or animals. It’s an easy way to protect the planet and reduce global climate change, she said.

Goff’s team shares the same sentiment. Lynn Polke was the center’s first employee. A part of her role included starting a six-week workshop series and staging the nonprofit’s very own “Repurpose Project Runway Trashion Show,” which featured local designs made of recycled goods that would have been sent to a landfill otherwise.

Polke continues her sustainability efforts outside of work with clothing swaps. She rummages through her closet, picking out pieces she’s done wearing. She and her friends meet up, throw everything into one big pile and crack open a bottle of wine while they’re at it.

“In the ‘80s, I’d ask people if they needed a bag, stressing the word ‘need.’ People would look at [me] like, ‘What do you mean? A bag is part of the sale.’ Now, it’s a whole different world.”

“It’s just nice to find something that might fit you better or something you’re excited about,” she said. “[The clothes are] still new to you.”

Polke always shopped secondhand. She never wanted to wear what everyone else did. And, oftentimes, it’s better quality, she said. “It’s poorly made clothing that you can only wear a couple of times,” Polke said about fast fashion brands like Forever 21.

It looks like people are catching on. It’s apparent through the mounds of clothing dropped off at both Flashbacks and the Repurpose Project. Polke said the Repurpose Project had to put up fences because they were “inundated with clothes.” Their donation bins were stuffed so full, so fast, they abandoned the idea altogether, not knowing what to do with all the clothes.

Although no one can know for sure where the fast fashion industry is heading, it certainly isn’t up. O&B