21dfvdfv by uifvbtidnh

INTRODUCING THE FIRST-EVER LEXUS LC 500 WHAT STARTED AS PURE CONCEPT, LAUNCHED A NEW ERA OF PERFORMANCE AND DESIGN. The LC 500 is a collection of visionary ideas. 10-speed Direct-Shift transmission. Near-perfect weight distribution. An innovative suspension system that defies conventional logic, accommodating available 21-inch wheels* within a ground-hugging profile. The LC is also an uncompromising approach to design. Although the first seat design was technically perfect, it was the 50th prototype that had the exact fit and feeling to complement the unique LC driving experience. This intense dedication to craftsmanship and innovation results in a level of refinement you’ve never felt. A sound you’ve never heard. And a feeling you have yet to experience. Introducing the first-ever 5.0-liter V8 Lexus LC 500 and Multistage Hybrid LC 500h. Experience the future of Lexus. Experience Amazing. lexus.com/LC | #LexusLC

Options shown. *21-in performance tires are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 20,000 miles, depending upon driving conditions. ©2017 Lexus

Resserv Res ervvat atittioons ns aannd expe ns perie riience ncees arree ba nc bbas aassed ed oonn a ﬁrs rst come mee, ﬁrs rstt serv e e basi er basiss andd sub s bjjec su eecct to to limi limiite ted eedd av avaailillabi a littyy. In In the he evvent nt of a res eesseer erv rrvvat atiion o ca ccan anncel ce lat attio ion oonn, thhee Car Card Memb Ca Memb ember mbberr wil w l be subj ubjeect eccctt to to tthhe rest res eest ssttau auuraant annt’ss can c ncel ca c la lat attion ioonn ppoolic l yy, whi which ch w willl be com mm m mun uuniicat caateedd to t the the Ca C rdd Mem Me eem mberr by by Co Conci onci n erg nc rgge at the he tim t e of of booo ook ookkin iing n . Conc onnnccie iier eerrge g is nott reespo spoonsi ssible b e for foor info nformi r ing n the thee reessta th tauur ura rraant nt of o yyou ouur diet diet etaaryy re etary restr sttriict str cttionns or forr the thhee re resta staura ura ur ranntt be bbei eiinngg abl bble to acco c mmo cc mmooda mm ddat aatte the he re rres eesstricct ctittiioon ons nnss; we do ask that you ou pro p vid videe this this innfor format matio ion oonn di d rec reecctly lyy too th t e rest staur taur urant ant.t. ant

With the Global Dining Collection, you can enjoy special access to reservations and experiences with some of your favorite chefs. Get a taste of Membership at americanexpress.com/exploreplatinum

FOOD & WINE

OCTOBER

119

59 88

106 102

THE WINE ISSUE Brothers in Vines 88 Balancing Act 96 Hustle and Flow 106 12 Hungry Crowd Actor Sterling K. Brown 14 Objects of Desire Candy Crush 19 Trendspotting What’s Hot Now: The F&W 40 40 Chef Dispatch Sydney 46 Perfect Pairing Roast Chicken 50 Award Winners The Most Innovative Women in Food and Drink 55 Handbook What to Cook Now 66 Travel Journal Postcard from India 72 The Pour Vintage Whiskey 78 Bottle Service The 25-Bottle Guide to Wine Mastery 84 Tasting Notes The Coolest Indie Wines 120 Most Wanted Chef Matt Jennings’s Clams Carbonara

On the cover: Sheet-Pan Chicken with Sourdough and Bacon (p. 94) from “Brothers in Vines.” Photograph by Con Poulos; food styling by Simon Andrews; style editor: Suzie Myers O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: david cicconi; the morrisons; john kernick; winnie au; con poulos; marcus nilsson

BARCELONA AND LINCOLN CENTER IN ONE DAY. Impossible? Not with Holland America Line. Sail in classic style on beautifully appointed ships to magical European destinations such as Barcelona, Venice and Dubrovnik. On board, enjoy a stirring musical performance at Lincoln Center Stage, a Holland America Line exclusive. Unforgettable days and nights come alive at more than 425 ports of call worldwide, only with Holland America Line.

Shipsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Registry: The Netherlands

RECIPE INDEX

Great with an IPA or a Chianti. recipe key

Meat & Poultry

● fast Can be prepared

Bilbro Family Sausage p. 94 Brisket with Sweet-and-Sour Onions p. 57 Buffalo Chicken Calzones p. 62

in 45 minutes or less. ● vegetarian Contains no

meat, poultry or seafood. ● staff favorite

Recipe we especially love.

●●

Try this with a white from Alsace.

Soups & Starters ●

Buttermilk-Brined Roast Chicken p. 48 ● ●

Crispy Potato Tarte Flambée

●

Garlic Bread Rolls p. 116 Hot-and-Sour Meatball Soup

● ●

p. 114 ●

Spiced Candied Almonds p. 116

Salad & Vegetables ●● ● ●●●

●●

Caesar Brussels Salad p. 57 Chorizo-and-Fig Salad p. 102 Fried Zucchini Chips p. 102 Persimmon-and-Endive Salad with Honey Vinegar and Avocado Oil Vinaigrette p. 102 Silky Spinach with Fresh Cheese

●

● ● ●

Warm Spinach and Sunchoke Salad p. 94

●●

●

Baked Clams with Bacon and Garlic p. 110

●●

●

Crispy Salmon and Wilted Chard

●

p. 114

Gochujang Cioppino p. 59 Shrimp Curry with Coconut, Mustard Seeds and Chiles p. 68

STEAK AND BRASSICAS WITH RED WINE SAUCE with

2014 Marietta Armé Cabernet Sauvignon (p. 94).

Pastas & Grains ●

Fish & Shellfish

●●

Humm Dogs p. 110 Pork Chops with Sunflower Seed Gremolata p. 58 Pork Loin Stuffed with Apples and Pumpkin Seeds p. 115 Sheet-Pan Chicken with Sourdough and Bacon p. 94 Sour Cherry–Glazed Ribs p. 114 Spicy Coconut Chicken Stew with Corn p. 62 Steak and Brassicas with Red Wine Sauce p. 94 Vinegar-Marinated Beef Yakitori p. 115

p. 70 ●

Chicken Parmesan p. 118 Crispy Chicken with Champagne Vinegar Aioli p. 115

p. 102 ●●

Staff-Favorite Pairings

●

Charcuterie Fried Rice p. 59 Clams Carbonara p. 119 Pappardelle with Chicken and Pistachio-Mint Pesto p. 60 Pasta with Sausage and Mustard Greens p. 94 Vinegar-Glazed Butternut Squash Pasta Salad p. 115

Snacks & Desserts ●●

●●

● ●

Apple-Pomegranate Cobbler p. 65 Berry Vinegar Tart p. 116 Chocolate Espresso Pie Bars p. 34 Chocolate Pretzels with Sea Salt p. 113

FRIED ZUCCHINI CHIPS with

Citrusy sparkling wine: NV Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut (p. 102).

Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). October 2017, Vol. 40, No. 10. Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37; Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2017 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

con poulos (2)

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662.

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. ÂŠ 2017 Meiomi Wines, Acampo, CA

Bold berry aromas. Rich, velvety texture. All lead to the great taste of Meiomi Pinot Noir.

Discover more at Meiomi.com

Shopping lists that connect your home to your phone. It’s more than a fridge. It’s the Family Hub . TM

Live beautiful

HUNGRY CROWD

ACTOR

PERFECT PAIRING

ALOHA STATE

I’m a Pinot Noir guy. It goes so well with the finely marbled rib eyes I love. A former castmate put me on to Oregon wines, telling me that they have some of the best vineyards for Pinot Noir in the US. I would have to agree.

Before children, my wife and I spent some time in Kauai, which is truly one of the more magical places on this planet. The spirit of the people of Hawaii is just so soothing. And it was so lush; it’s green everywhere you go. We went to Hanalei—you know, the home of Puff the Magic Dragon—as well as to incredible hidden beaches.

WILL TRAVEL FOR FOOD

One pretty dope food city right here in the US is Charleston, South Carolina. We filmed Army Wives there, and my number-one spot was FIG. It stands for Food Is Good, and the food is beyond good. Halls Chophouse and Oak Steakhouse are tied for my favorite steakhouses.

BACKYARD BARBECUE

We probably entertain five or six times a year at our home in L.A., for maybe 20 or 30 people. It’s usually swimming in the day and sitting around the fire pit at night. We sometimes do tacos and will grill a bunch of meat, but I don’t do barbecue because I’m from St. Louis and take it very seriously. I leave that to the pros, and out here that means JR’s or Bludso’s, which are delicious.

ON THE SEVENTH DAY

Sunday is my cheat day, and I used to eat bad things, like nachos with anything and everything on top. Now it starts with French toast, an omelet and sausages. French toast may actually be my favorite food. People look at me like, “Dude, how do you eat all this food and look like that?” I basically eat three meals at one time and then allow that to get me through the rest of the day.

O C TO B E R 2017

SNAIL FAIL

You gotta try everything once, right? As much as I wanted to enjoy escargot, it just wasn’t my thing. I know some people get down with the snail, but it’s not for me. —INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from left: eva kolenko; williams & hirakawa/august; peter frank edwards

Emmy winner Sterling K. Brown on French toast cravings, praise for pit masters and the one thing he just can’t eat.

Host a cut above

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

F&W

TASTE TEST

Candy Crush

Project 7

Woodhouse Chocolate

Wild Ophelia

Sweet-tart Champagne Dreams Gourmet Gummies not only taste really good, they also do good: Proceeds go to seven different charities. $5.45 for 4 oz.; project7.com.

A perfect marriage of creamy and crunchy, this bar, a blend of milk and dark chocolates, is studded with crackly, brownsugary Golden Grahams cereal. $8 for 3.5-oz. bar; woodhousechocolate.com.

It’s our ideal afternoon pick-me-up: chocolate shells with a creamy cold-brewcoffee-infused filling. $2.50 for 1.4 oz.; vosgeschocolate.com.

Bissinger’s Do the antioxidant powers of blueberries count if they’re in the shape of chewy pandas? Let’s go with yes. Blueberry Acai and Blackberry Hibiscus get our vote for most addictive. $4 for 3 oz.; bissingers.com.

Tony’s Chocolonely

Pressed Juicery and Sugarfina

Cellar Door Chocolates

Like our favorite green juice, these mama and baby bear gummies are made with a zingy mix of apple, lemon, ginger and greens. $3 for 1.7 oz.; sugarfina.com.

We crave this shop’s caramel-filled dark chocolate dusted with bourbon barrel– smoked sea salt. $23.50 for 15-piece box; cellardoorchocolates.com.

O C TO B E R 2017

Luckily there’s plenty to go around with these chunky bars. We especially love the sweet and nutty Pecan Coconut. $5.50 for 6 oz.; tonyschocolonely.com.

Sweet Rose Creamery and Valerie Confections Imagine classic ice cream flavors like Cookies and Cream reinterpreted as chocolate bars. $30 for three 2.5-oz. bars; sweetrosecreamery.com.

Bi-Rite and Recchiuti Confections Puffed quinoa in semisweet chocolate is a more satisfying version of a childhood favorite. $8 for 3 oz.; biritemarket.com. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: david cicconi; food stylist: simon andrews; prop stylist: sarah cave

JUST BECAUSE YOUR TRICK-OR-TREATING DAYS ARE OVER DOESN’T MEAN YOU DON’T CRAVE HALLOWEEN SWEETS. WE GET IT. FROM RICH CHOCOLATE TO FRUITY GUMMIES, THIS IS WHAT WE’RE HOARDING IN OUR DESK DRAWERS.

Welcome home. Cherry Pie Pinot Noir is a combination of three of our vineyards, blended to embrace all the things we love about home. From gravelly, well-draining sites in Monterey, elevated vineyards on steep slopes in the Sonoma Coast, and warm, sandy soils in Santa Barbara, Cherry Pie is Pinot Noir with a distinct sense of place.

@cherrypiewines | cherrypiewines.com

WELCOME TO THE TEA HOUSE. PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE. Also available in these flavors: Sicilian Lemon & Honeysuckle

• Valencia Orange Peel • Wild Blackberry & Sage

TREND SPOTTING

40 Pea shoots

F&W TOP

Rainbow chard

Dill

PRODUCED BY ELYSE INAMINE AND JORDANA ROTHMAN

Opal and lemon basil

ethan hill

What’s NEW, NEXT, NOW

WE’RE PARTICULAR ABOUT our finishing salts. We look forward to new cookbooks like fangirls who anticipate the latest superhero blockbuster. And we’ll eagerly board a 12-hour flight to explore an up-and-coming wine region (watch out, Napa!). We’re obsessives—and so are you. To gear up for Food & WineÕs 40th birthday next year, we’ve compiled the 40 things we’re most excited about this season, from the hottest restaurant openings on our radar to new food tech, like the Farmshelf system (pictured above) that promises to change how we garden. Turn the page and tuck in.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O C TO B E R 2017

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

No backyard? No problem. Hydroponic gardening innovator Farmshelf is developing indoor units— each with the footprint of a large bookcase—to help turn everyday spaces into mini vertical farms. Their technology relies on custom LED lights and a NASAdesigned CO2 recirculating system to create an optimal growing environment. Farmshelf has already attracted heavy hitters in the restaurant world, like Beefsteak in Washington, DC, and Great Northern Food Hall in New York City, which use the units for a yearround supply of greens, such as Japanese mustard and micro arugula. Next year you’ll be able to start growing in your own kitchen, when Farmshelf rolls out a version for home consumers.

Instagrammers already know about Athena Calderone, a.k.a. @eyeswoon. This fall, the rest of the world will get an offscreen intro to the interior designer turned social media star via her book Cook Beautiful ($35). Here she spills a few styling secrets. —DANA BOWEN “As you cook, think about presentation and color: Braised pork is delicious but not exactly pretty, so slice it and garnish with herbs. Shock your vegetables, so they’re as bright as can be.”

O C TO B E R 2017

“Each season has its own personality, so channel that. During the summer, food tends to be more carefree, and so are our meals. Winter is more intimate and moodier, with darker tones.”

YOU GOT SERVED

We see a dizzying array of tableware at F&W, but Dinosaur Designs’ dyed-resin serving pieces stand out. We’re fond of the eye-catching blue cheese board (with matching knife for soft curds) and the giant green platter, perfect for your main course. Our holiday wish list just got a bit longer. From $65; dinosaur designs.com.

—HANNAH WALHOUT

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANT OPENINGS THIS FALL

You u don’t have h to stick k tto one look on the table. I dip my toe in everything. Embrace the eclectic!Ó

NOMA After popping up in Tulum, Mexico, this past spring, chef René Redzepi and his team are returning to Copenhagen. The new iteration of Noma opens in the hippie Christiania neighborhood with an urban garden attached. —EI

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: shutterstock/picturepartners; winnie au; david cicconi

BIG IDEAS IN INDOOR FARMING

OUR INTERNET CRUSH MAKES GOOD

DRYNESS HURTS Get relief with GENTEAL Tears. ®

When your eyes feel dry you want relief, fast. Luckily, GENTEAL® Tears works quickly to turn dry irritated eyes into comfy eyes with just a few drops.

5/17

US-GTL-17-E-1241

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

What do you get when you combine bine a d distillery and an orchestra? stra? If you’re Will Manning, anning it means a lot of new knives. Founder ounde of Heartwood Forge F in Athens, Georgia, the skilled blacksmith upcycles salvaged materials— including blackwood from an abandoned clarinet factory and staves from a whiskey barrel—to craft one-of-a-kind cutting tools. This stunning blade is perfect for those briny bivalves that are in season right now. Bonus: It supports a good cause, with a portion of the proceeds going to the conservation of endangered Apalachicola oysters. —HW

Kimball House Oyster Shucker, $325; heartwoodforge.com.

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food photographs: david cicconi; food stylist: simon andrews; prop stylist: sarah cave

BLADES OF GLORY

HAPPY VALENTINE’S DAY!

Carving by artist Jon Neill

GRAB A BAG OF SNICKERS® FUN SIZE® BARS THIS HALLOWEEN ®/™ TRADEMARKS © MARS, INCORPORATED 2016.

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now Chef George Azar is reviving his restaurant Flowers of Vietnam.

Rappers like Gucci Mane helped fuel the frenzy over Moscato—easydrinking wine with a pleasant effervescence—but most of it was mass-produced dreck. Now there’s a legit American version: Honey Bubbles ($20). The creation of three L.A. restaurant pros, this peachy sparkler is hard to resist. Despite the name, there’s no honey—though a portion of sales does go to benefit organizations working to prevent beehive colony collapse. —RAY ISLE

Katoi’s fried chicken sandwich is ready for round two in Detroit.

The Motor City’s restaurant scene revs up. “When you don’t have much, loyalty goes a long way,” says George Azar, the chef behind Flowers of Vietnam in Detroit. He’s talking about the close-knit community that has defined and accelerated a culinary growth spurt in this postindustrial city. After staging at Noma in Tulum, Mexico, earlier this year, while Flowers of Vietnam was undergoing renovations, Azar has plans to reopen this fall. But he’s not the only familiar face back in action. Chef Brad Greenhill, Azar’s Corktown neighbor, relied on local support to get on his feet again, after his Thai hit Katoi burned down last winter. Thanks to months of crowd-sourced fundraising, Greenhill was able to resurrect Katoi over the summer. This autumn, he’ll also break ground on Magnet, a new bar with wood-fired snacks. Another noteworthy addition is Lady of the House, a project from chef Kate

8 THE HOTTEST RESTAURANT OPENINGS THIS FALL

O C TO B E R 2017

DETROIT: DON’T CALL IT A COMEBACK

Williams, who works closely with regional purveyors to develop dishes like shrimp mousse with pork “bonito” (the meat is fermented, dried and smoked). And looking just a bit further ahead, we’re excited for the opening of Wilda’s, a partnership between Lucy Peters, cofounder of Detroit’s charming neo-diner Rose’s Fine Food, and New York City chefs Max and Eli Sussman, who are Michigan natives. Wilda’s will start serving its American fare by late fall, and plans are in the works for neighborhood food-education programs. “New development in Detroit really has to consider the people who have tried against all odds to make a home and place for themselves here,” says Peters. “It’s not enough to just open a good restaurant. A good restaurant must also be good for its community.” —JR

BAR BASICS

After the tiki explosion and molecular mixology madness, Megan Krigbaum’s new The Essential Cocktail Book ($20) is a welcome celebration of the classics. —EI

MOSU SEOUL Having closed his modern Korean restaurant Mosu in San Francisco, Sung Anh is reopening in Seoul’s cool Itaewon district. The new place will highlight guest chef collaborations and fermentation experiments like preserved shellfish salt. —EI

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

left: david cicconi; top: michelle gerard (2)

MOSCATO BEATS ITS BAD RAP

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

[10-11]

BREAD WINNERS

It’s a big season for bakers. Two of the top names in yeast and flour, New York Cronut king Dominique Ansel and Chad Robertson of Tartine in San Francisco, are both descending on Los Angeles with full-service restaurants, (10) their most ambitious projects to date. But there’s more bakery buzz, from Paris to the Pacific Northwest, thanks to (11) a host of rising talents. —EI ALICE QUILLET, TEN BELLES BREAD A Tartine

KIT AND JESSE SCHUMANN, SEA WOLF

JENN SMURR, BORN + BREAD BAKEHOUSE

alum, Quillet replaces the classic baguette with sourdough loaves at this Paris bakery. Locals were incensed at first, but now the shelves are empty by early afternoon. facebook .com/tenbellesbread.

The brothers started baking out of chef Renee Erickson’s Boat Street Cafe before founding their Seattle shop. Sourdoughs are their specialty, from plain white to earthy rye. seawolfbakers.com.

After interning under respected bakers, the popular green-market seller Smurr is opening a retail counter at her baking facility in Lakeland, Florida. bornandbread bakehouse.com.

O C TO B E R 2017

CHRIS SY, BREADSHOP

Hawaii is synonymous with squishy loaves, but at his Honolulu shop, the French Laundry–trained Sy focuses on crosshatched country breads, which have acquired a serious following. breadsbybreadshop.com.

ADAM TAN, BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS Chef Dan

Barber’s laser focus on ingredients extends to bread at his upstate New York restaurant. Most of the 10 loaves in Tan’s repertoire feature a single grain sourced from one farm. bluehillfarm.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

THE VISION

ROBERT MONDAVI A Bold Look into the Future An innovative tribute to the man who inspired the valley, each blend of MAESTRO is a unique celebration of the vintage and our estate vineyards, To Kalon and Wappo Hill.

Trendspotting

[12–18]

12 TREES KNEES COFFEE MAPLE SYRUP

Syrup gets the redeye gravy treatment with this Stumptown coffee and Bushwick Kitchen collaboration (left). $14; bushwick kitchen.com. 13 RIVER VALLEY RANCH CHERRY BOMB HOT SAUCE Made

Crisp fall mornings call for hearty meals. Thanks to these new a.m. essentials, our happiest hour begins before work, not after. —DANIELLE WAYDA

with sweet cherry bomb peppers, the vinegary condiment will kick fried eggs and hash browns into high gear. $8; rvrvalley.com. 14 M C EVOY RANCH MEYER LEMON MARMALADE Brighten

chilly mornings with a zingy California spread that’s a natural match for scones. $14; mcevoyranch.com. 15 OAT BOX GRANOLA

This monthly subscription service sends out-of-theordinary seasonal mixes straight to your door. One of

our favorites blends toasted coconut with tart dried pineapple. $20 for two 38-gram bags; oatbox.com. 16 SMOKING GOOSE HILLBELLY BREAKFAST SAUSAGE We’re

hooked on these gingery pork links from butchers (and high school sweethearts) Mollie and Chris Eley. $12 for 1 lb.; smoking goose.com. 17 BLAKE HILL PRESERVES BLUEBERRY & THYME JAM Herby and

just sweet enough, Vicky and Joe Allard’s spread is perfect on buttered toast. $8; blakehill preserves.com. 18 RUNAMOK HIBISCUS MAPLE SYRUP Infused

with organic flowers, this ruby syrup is as good on French toast as it is in a Bellini. $17; shop.runamok maple.com.

As much as we love drinking Gut Oggau’s biodynamic wines, what really gets us is the black-and-white labels with faces. Just who are those people? When the Austrian winery tapped German designer Jung von Matt to create its labels, he helped come up with the idea of doing portraits of fictional muses for the various bottlings. “Our wines are lively, each one unique in character and personality—so we describe them as if they were people,” vintner Eduard Tscheppe says of the collection, which ranges from the flirty, Gewürztraminer-based Emmeram to the playful Theodora, made with Grüner Veltliner. gutoggau.com. —EI

21 O C TO B E R 2017

GEORGIA ON OUR MINDS

The latest wine region winning over sommeliers? Strangely enough, it’s the Caucasus nation of Georgia, where winemaking has been going on for 8,000 years, and the wines range from bright and crisp to downright exotic. Try these three to start. —RI 2014 VINOTERRA MTSVANE ($16)

Herbal and faintly salty, this native white variety takes on a golden hue and rich texture due to being aged for six months in qvevri (clay urns). 2016 PHEASANT’S TEARS SAPERAVI ($18) Earthy and so

FACE VALUE

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANT OPENINGS THIS FALL

19 dark it’s almost black, this bottling made from Georgia’s most significant red grape variety is a great introduction to the country’s wines. 2014 ORGO RKATSITELI ($25)

Lightly honeyed and incredibly fresh, this impressive white also has red-esque tannins, due to contact with grape skins during the aging process. Try it with roast pork loin or, if you’re feeling especially Georgian, a platter of chkmeruli (chicken in a spicy garlic sauce).

DIALOGUE Music is a major influence on Best New Chef alum Dave Beran’s 18-seat tasting-menu spot in Santa Monica, California. The pacing of meals will take inspiration from the way albums are composed, swinging from sweet to savory throughout. —EI

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

bottles: courtesy of gut oggau

BUILDING A BETTER BREAKFAST PANTRY

What’s Hot Now

A new way to plan for tomorrow, today. Managed portfolios from TD Ameritrade Investment Management. TD Ameritrade offers a variety of portfolios that can help you meet your goals now and as life changes. While there are plenty of things you can’t plan for, staying invested won’t be one of them. Start a conversation with a TD Ameritrade Financial Consultant about investing today. Call (800) 454-9272 or visit tdameritrade.com/portfolios to learn more. Advisory services are provided by TD Ameritrade Investment Management, LLC, a registered investment advisor. All investments involve risk, including risk of loss. TD Ameritrade, Inc., member FINRA/SIPC. © 2017 TD Ameritrade.

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

A rehabbed reel-toreel player rolls out hip-hop, jazz and folk-pop at Back Bar at Young Joni in Minneapolis.

EAT, DRINK, LISTEN. TOKYO RECORD BAR Ariel Arce, the force behind Air’s Champagne Parlor in New York City, loves vinyl for the same reason she loves Champagne: “There’s an obsessive quality to it,” she says. Arce transformed the space under Air’s into a 16-seat listening room inspired by holes-in-the-wall beloved in Japan. tokyorecordbar.com.

BAR ONE FOURTEEN Owner Martha Hoover hired a music curator, a one-time touring member of The Lemonheads, to oversee the playlist of her tiny Indianapolis bar. He makes reel-to-reel tapes, the old-school technology prized by audiophiles for its rich, dimensional sound. facebook .com/baronefourteen.

BACK BAR AT YOUNG JONI

“The experience here evokes nostalgia, and the music is a big part of that,” says chef Ann Kim of the woodsy bar that’s behind the kitchen of her Minneapolis restaurant. Scott McNiece of Uncanned Music curates the three-hourlong mixtapes. youngjoni.com /back-bar.

eliesa johnson (2)

Getting worked up over masterful mixtapes and retooled vintage sound systems isn’t just for music geeks. A growing number of bars are embracing their inner audiophile, and these are some of our new favorites. —NOAH KAUFMAN

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

[24–30]

THE BNC BOOKSHELF

OUR TEST KITCHEN’S SALTY FIXATION

Confession: We’re salt snobs. And in our book, the only proper way to finish a dish is with big, crunchy flakes. The Jacobsen Salt Co. in Portland, Oregon, has long been a go-to, and its crystals infused with Pinot Noir are the latest indispensable addition to our cupboard. Salt maker Ben Jacobsen uses wine from Grochau Cellars in Willamette Valley for this purple salt, a perfect seasoning for all the meaty braises we’ll be cooking this season. Time to stock up. $12; jacobsensalt .com. —LAURA REGE

24 DANIEL PATTERSON, CLASS OF 1997 The chef behind Locol in Watts, California, and Coi in San Francisco collaborated with perfumer Mandy Aftel for The Art of Flavor: Practices and Principles for Creating Delicious Food, a brainy, deep-dive exploration into how flavors and aromas form. $28.

25 MISSY ROBBINS, CLASS OF 2010 The pasta queen shares the dishes she turned to during her sabbatical between leaving A Voce in Manhattan and opening her instant hit Lilia in Brooklyn. In Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner... Life!: Recipes

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANT OPENINGS THIS FALL

and Adventures from My Home Kitchen, Robbins recounts how she rediscovered her love of cooking. $35. 26 PAUL KAHAN, CLASS OF 1999 With 11 restaurants under his belt, Kahan has emerged as a titan of the Chicago food scene. But for his debut book, the chef zeroes in on just one of them, The Publican. In Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present: Recipes and Ramblings from an American Beer Hall, he highlights the meat-centric dishes that make it a Windy City standby. $40. 27 HUGH ACHESON, CLASS OF 2002 Forget sous vide wands. The chef behind Five & Ten in Athens, Georgia, makes a case for the tried-and-true Crock-Pot in The Chef and the Slow Cooker. Find rich bone broths and plenty of Southern-accented braises—plus Acheson’s fun sketches. $20.

28 STUART BRIOZA, CLASS OF 2003 Brioza and his wife and co-chef, Nicole Krasinski, unpack their signature dish—breaded and fried quail with Vidalia onions—in the first few pages of State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook, named after their dim sum–style, small plates–powered San Francisco spot. There are also practical lessons in building your own DIY larder and versatile recipes for powerhouse modifiers like sweet raisin verjus and tangy sauerkraut powder. $40. 29 WYLIE DUFRESNE, CLASS OF 2001 The groundbreaking spirit of Dufresne’s

shuttered modernist restaurant in New York City lives on in this time capsule, wd~50: The Cookbook. He lifts the veil on his most memorable culinary trompe l’oeil creations, from the infamous everything “bagel” and cream cheese to the sunny-side-up “egg.” $75.

30 KRIS YENBAMROONG, CLASS OF 2016 It’s always a party at Yenbamroong’s Los Angeles restaurant, Night + Market, and that vibe is reflected in the title of his first book, Night + Market: Delicious Thai Food to Facilitate Drinking and Fun-Having Amongst Friends. $35.

NUALA St. John Bread & Wine alum Niall Davidson is bringing the all-day restaurant trend to London’s hip Shoreditch neighborhood, with a full Irish breakfast in the morning and a bustling bar with live music at night. —EI

The town of San Elena is famous for its roadside BBQ joints. Stop by for a pork and chicken combo on your way to adventure in Western Belize.

Discover how to be at travelbelize.org

from left: david cicconi; evan sung; ed anderson; clarkson potter/publishers

Autumn brings us stellar squash, crisp apples and a bounty of must-have cookbooks. This season, there’s a robust crop of titles from F&W Best New Chefs alums. —DW

ÂŠ 2017 Time Inc. MONEY is a trademark of Time Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.

Savor the Difference with a Liebherr Super Quiet for You. Soothing for Your Wine.

home.liebherr.com

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

[33–39]

7 NEW HOTELS WE WANT TO MOVE INTO

40 O C TO B E R 2017

A table with a view at the 137 Pillars hotel. below, from left: a dining room in the Hôtel de Crillon; deviled eggs at the Curtain Hotel.

clockwise from top: small luxury hotels of the world; red rooster shoreditch; stephan julliard

At F&W, travel is in our blood, and food often drives our choice of destination. But we’ve also been known to jump on a plane to stay at a dreamy hotel and live like a royal, even if only for a night or two. That’s pretty easy to do at the (33) Hôtel de Crillon (from $1,416; hoteldecrillon .com) in Paris, a property that was commissioned by King Louis XV in 1758 and just underwent a four-year restoration. The new 60-seat lobby bar is an ideal spot for Champagne and caviar. In Bangkok, (34) 137 Pillars (from $464; 137pillars hotels.com) features 34 suites, each named after a royal period in Thai history. Guests are assigned a butler and personal shopper, so you can focus on crafting your eating itinerary. The (35) Curtain Hotel (from $314; thecurtain.com) in London’s Shoreditch neighborhood has eight bars and an outpost of chef Marcus Samuelsson’s famed Red Rooster. Also on our covetable list: (36) Awasi Iguazú (from $850; awasiguazu.com), featuring 14 private villas on stilts in the Argentine jungle, about 15 minutes from the Iguazú Falls. For a different kind of waterfront experience, Santa Barbara’s (37) Hotel Californian (from $550; thehotelcalifornian.com) resides in a beautifully restored 1925 building, where amenities include a luxurious Turkish spa. And if your mood calls for the Caribbean, the (38) Park Hyatt St. Kitts (from $450; stkitts.park.hyatt.com) is located on secluded Banana Bay at the foot of gorgeous rolling hills. The Stone Barn, one of its three restaurants, focuses on hearth-fired dishes. And, finally, there’s striking Cape Town hotel (39) The Silo (from $925; theroyalportfolio.com/the-silo), which occupies the upper portion of a converted grain silo. Ah, well, looks like we’ll need to add some pages to our passports. —CHRISTINE QUINLAN

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANT MIL Virgilio Martínez, the chef behind Central in Lima, Peru, is launching a new venture that will be part lab, part restaurant in Cuzco, in the Peruvian Andes. There he’ll explore indigenous OPENINGS THIS FALL ingredients—growing and cooking them, and cataloging everything he comes across. —EI

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Rosé, Oregon Elouan Rosé delivers intense fruit flavor and a fresh vibrant taste. It’s a delightful and versatile companion for dining outdoors, relaxing poolside and keeping summer alive all year long. It goes particularly well with good friends so enjoy this rosé well-chilled and often. ...And always go with your palate.

o with your palate

elouanwines.com

CHEF DISPATCH

On Location: Sydney AS PART OF THE legendary rivalry between Australia’s two biggest cities, Melbourne likes to claim supremacy when it comes to food. But don’t tell that to the crop of chefs now Jeremiah Stone raising the bar in Sydney. Or to our sister title Travel + LeisureÕs readers, who selected Sydney as the region’s top food destination—just ahead of Melbourne—in the 2017 World’s Best Awards. Eager for a closer look at Sydney’s humming dining scene, we tagged along with F&W Best New Chef alum Jeremiah Stone, of New York City’s Wildair and Contra, on a tour of the city’s top restaurants. “The vibe is young, with lots of energy,” says Stone. “Chefs who left to work abroad are coming back and creating their own style.” Read on for his favorite finds. —ELYSE INAMINE

At the sprawling Mr. Wong, Stone admires both the dim sum and the people-watching.

THE ESSENTIAL LIST

Belles Hot Chicken

Sides like roasted yam salad complete the fried chicken experience at Belles Hot Chicken.

O C TO B E R 2017

“The Nashville-style fried chicken at the new permanent Barangaroo location of chef Morgan McGlone’s former pop-up is super-juicy and has great heat. The wine list is amazing, and don’t miss out on the sides.” belleshotchicken.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

illustration: missy m c cullough. photographs, from top: courtesy of merivale; eugene hyland

Mr. Wong

“Everyone knows Dan Hong, one of the chefs (along with Michael Luo) behind this massive Chinese restaurant in the Central Business District. The menu is huge, so there’s something for everyone. I love the dumplings, including the ones with calamari and foie gras and the scallop and prawn shumai. All of the seafood is great. Order as many dishes as you can.” merivale.com.au/mrwong.

A Prairie Homecoming CHEF SEAMUS MULLENS RETURNS TO HIS ROOTS, VISITING OLSON ORGANICS, AN ORGANIC FARM ON THE MINNESOTA PRAIRIE.

I CHEF MEETS FARMERS Chef Mullen spends the day with Carolyn and Jonathan Olson, learning how to produce vodka that respects grain-growers and the environment equally.

ENJOY IN MODERATION © 2017 PRAIRIE ORGANIC VODKA, 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF), PRAIRIE CUCUMBER FLAVORED ORGANIC VODKA, 35% ALC./VOL. (70 PROOF). DISTILLED IN BENSON, MN. BOTTLED BY ED PHILLIPS & SONS, PRINCETON, MN USA. MADE IN THE USA.

n Cottonwood, Minnesota, you’ll find a family farm that doesn’t use herbicides. Instead, weeds are managed through mechanical and manual means. Everything here is also fertilized the old-fashioned way; animal manure stars rather than synthetic fertilizers, because the Organic Foods Production Act and the National Organic Program that it created says it must be so. It’s on this farm that Carolyn and Jonathan Olson raise the organic corn that becomes Prairie Organic Vodka and Gin. And it’s here that we brought Chef Seamus Mullen, who grew up on his family’s organic farm, to give him a taste of home. And a taste of vodka. Chef Mullen hasn’t lived on his hometown farm since he moved to New York City—where his restaurant Tertulia shines—nearly 30 years ago, but as a clean-eating book author who manages the autoimmune disease rheumatoid arthritis primarily through diet, he fit right in at Olson Organics. WWW.PRAIRIEORGANICSPIRITS.COM INSTAGRAM: @PRAIRIEORGANIC

THE CORN “We love knowing where our grain goes and that we are raising a product that is in demand,” says Carolyn.

THE DISTILLERY Prairie Organic Spirits is distilled to taste, rather than a prescribed number of times, as variations in climate, soil, and moisture levels affect each batch’s character. The still used is custom-built and made of copper.

THE FARM “Integrity is important to us,” says Carolyn, “which makes annual inspections and the required Organic Systems Plan easy.” The OSP outlines a farm’s commitment to organic practices.

THE VODKA Prairie Organic Vodka’s commitment to putting out a quality product in a positive manner echoes Olson Organic’s own philosophy.

THE FL AME THROWER

THE DRINK

Organic farms like Olson Organics use fire as weed control instead of pesticides. The heat kills small surface intruder plants while leaving larger corn stalks intact.

Recreate the afternoon break of farmers past by relaxing with a snap pea and peach cocktail before finishing a hard day’s work. AFTERNOON TIME OUT 1 oz Prairie Organic Vodka .25 oz Sugar Snap Pea organic cordial .25 oz Pink lemon juice 2 oz Peach Lambic Ale 2 Dashes Peach Bitters 2 Dashes of Swedish Herb Bitters Shake ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker and strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. Garnish with basil and edible flower petals.

THE TASTING Farmers and chef toast a cocktail mixed by purveyor Katie Clas. “I like a clean cocktail with herbal elements, “ says Mullen.

PERFECT PAIRING

Winner, Winner

AT THEIR NEW RT ROTISSERIE IN SAN FRANCISCO, CHEFS SARAH AND EVAN RICH MASTERED THE ART OF THE SUPER-SUCCULENT, SUPREMELY FLAVORFUL SPIT-ROASTED CHICKEN. THE NEXT STEP? FINDING THE PERFECT WINE TO PAIR WITH IT.

OAST CHICKEN has long been the ultimate anything-goes dish when it comes to picking a wine. Red or white, light or full-bodied, simple or complex—it’s all good. That versatility is due partly to chicken’s mild flavor; add some juiciness and fat, and a bit of crisp, crackling skin, and, seriously, what doesn’t go with it? But what about a pull-out-all-the-stops great roast chicken—maybe even the perfect roast chicken? Could you come up with a wine that would be the nonpareil pairing for it? If you were Sarah and Evan Rich, the San Francisco chefs behind Rich Table and the recently opened RT Rotisserie, you might ponder that very question. The Riches brine their chickens with two secret ingredients: dried porcini, to add a subtle, savory depth, and sprigs of Douglas fir. (The Riches are serious Douglas fir fanatics—they use the needles, whole or powdered, for a woodsy, herbal note in everything from home-baked levain bread to

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: david cicconi; food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers. bowl by malinda reich

BY RAY ISLE

ADVERTISEMENT Perfect Pairing

A SEAT AT THE CHEF’S TABLE: Otium, Los Angeles

braised pork belly.) The birds are then butter-basted as they roast, and finished with a glazing of toasted-garlic olive oil. The result is stupendously good chicken. For the wine, the chefs turned to star Pinot Noir maker Jamie Kutch. No real surprise, as Kutch and his wife, Kristen, are good friends with the Riches, and their kids often play together at a local park. At Kutch’s Sonoma winery, Sarah and Evan tasted their way through a string of possibilities, discussing what a great pairing would need: no new oak that would obscure the purity of the Pinot fruit; vivid acidity to cut through the fat of the crisp skin. The wine they ultimately chose comes from the cool, high-altitude Signal Ridge Vineyard in Mendocino. Its bright berry notes and underlying spiciness are an ideal match with the chicken’s layered, herby flavors, and together they lift off. There’s only one hitch to this perfect pairing: You have to go to San Francisco to experience it, since this specific bottling is available only at RT Rotisserie. For a brilliant approximation, however, try the recipe below and track down one of the great Pinot Noirs to the right. You’ll see what we mean.

Buttermilk-Brined Roast Chicken page 46 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min plus 6 hr brining; Serves 4

CARDMEMBER RESERVATIONS ARE OPEN FOR AN EXCLUSIVE DINING EXPERIENCE ON OCTOBER 18.

Nestled in vibrant downtown Los Angeles, Otium serves inventive, modern rustic cuisine prepared by award-winning chef Timothy Hollingsworth. Ingredients hail from Otium’s rooftop mezzanine vertical garden and are prepared in its open-concept kitchen, truly elevating the farm-to-table experience.

Douglas fir is a signature ingredient at Sarah and Evan Rich’s flagship restaurant, Rich Table. They like foraging for it themselves and using it in myriad ways. Here, sprigs are incorporated into the buttermilk brine for the juicy and flavorful chicken they make at RT Rotisserie, but rosemary serves as a nice substitute. Kosher salt 11 garlic cloves—9 smashed, 2 thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. chopped rosemary or 5 Douglas fir sprigs 1 bay leaf ½ cup dried porcini mushrooms 1 qt. buttermilk One 3½-lb. whole chicken 1 tsp. unsalted butter, softened 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Visit InsideAccess.com for more information and to purchase your package for this special event. UNITED MILEAGEPLUS CREDIT CARDS ARE ISSUED BY CHASE BANK USA, N.A.

Roast Chicken

1. In a medium saucepan, combine ¼ cup of salt with the smashed garlic, the sugar, rosemary, bay leaf and 2 cups of water. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Transfer the mixture to a very large bowl and stir in 2 cups of cold water.

PoultryFriendly Pinots Four wines with the ideal spice notes to make your bird soar. 2015 HUSCH ANDERSON VALLEY PINOT NOIR ($25) 2015 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR ($25) 2015 KUTCH SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR ($40) 2014 THE WITHERS CHARLES VINEYARD PINOT NOIR ($44)

2. In a spice grinder, grind the mushrooms to a powder. (You should have about 3 tablespoons.) Whisk the porcini powder and buttermilk into the salt mixture. Place the chicken in the buttermilk brine, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 12 hours. 3. Preheat the oven to 425°. Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry; discard the brine. Tuck the wing tips behind the breasts, tie the legs with kitchen twine and set the chicken, breast side up, in a rack over a roasting pan. Season all over with salt. 4. Roast the chicken for 15 minutes. Brush the butter all over the chicken, then return it to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, simmer the olive oil with the sliced garlic over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic just starts to brown and the oil is hot and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and let cool. 6. Carve the chicken and arrange the pieces on a platter. Brush with some of the garlic oil and serve right away, passing the remaining oil at the table.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Katherine Miller Chef Action Network

AWARD WINNERS FROM THE EDITORS OF AND

The Most

Christine Moseley Full Harvest

Innovative Nicole Bernard Dawes Late July Snacks

Martha Hoover Patachou Inc.

in Food + Drink

Joy Spence Appleton Estate

FROM EMPOWERING CHEFS TO BECOME AGENTS FOR SOCIAL CHANGE TO TACKLING FOOD WASTE TO CULTIVATING A BETTER WORKPLACE, THESE TRAILBLAZERS AND TRENDSETTERS ARE RAISING THE BAR AND RESHAPING OUR WORLD. BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: brooks kraft; lori sax; taea thale; appleton estate jamaican rum; anastasiia sapon

Women

Award Winners

Most Innovative Women

Katherine Miller

CHEF ACTION NETWORK What happens when you combine a chef-obsessed culture with an advocacy warrior at the leading edge of food policy reform? You get the Chef Action Network, a nonprofit founded by Katherine Miller to educate chefs about everything from childhood nutrition to sustainable food systems, and in turn inspire them to mobilize and use their influence to make a difference. Now partnering with the James Beard Foundation, Miller is building an even larger community for change. “Joining with the most respected organization in the food world, we immediately went from a network of hundreds of chefs who had gone through our policy boot camps to thousands through the reach of the foundation,” she says. These chefs are putting their training to work, showing up at congressional town halls to encourage representatives to oppose cuts to the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, taking on food-waste reduction in their communities and much more. chefaction.org.

Christine Moseley Martha Hoover

FULL HARVEST With limited options for selling imperfect fruits and vegetables, farmers in the US are forced to leave billions of pounds of perfectly delicious produce on the field or send it to landfills every year. So in 2016 Christine Moseley launched Full Harvest, a webbased platform that creates a market for this food by connecting growers with buyers. In addition to reducing waste, the program generates more revenue for farmers and, since ugly produce costs less than pretty produce, saves buyers money. And it all happens online, with just a few clicks. Through July, Full Harvest already helped sell over a million pounds of imperfect produce, and Moseley expects to more than quadruple that number by year’s end. Drawing on her background in logistics, she has developed a system that is remarkably efficient. “Everything is automated to save money, time and paper, from ordering to online payments,” she says. fullharvest.com.

Nicole Bernard Dawes

LATE JULY SNACKS Given the expanding definition of what qualifies as a snack, something 94 percent of Americans say they enjoy daily, it would seem like the perfect moment to be in the snack game, right? Well, it’s also an intensely competitive arena, so a product has to stand out. Enter Late July, a maker of snack foods that are organic, sustainable and non-GMO. “People want to support companies like ours, but that alone will never be enough,” says Late July founder Nicole Bernard Dawes. “We’re succeeding because of how we taste.” And how: The company’s annual sales are expected to hit $100 million this year, its fifth consecutive year of 40 percent growth. Furthering the feel-good snacking approach, Late July donates 10 percent of its profits to charities focused on children, hunger relief and the environment. latejuly.com.

O C TO B E R 2017

PATACHOU INC. Indianapolis entrepreneur Martha Hoover is a pioneering force for restaurants that double as vehicles for social change. In 1989, after leaving her job as a sex crimes prosecutor, she opened her first restaurant. Today she provides health benefits to all of her employees as well as 401(k) plans with matching contributions, emergency assistance and a clear path for advancement, and serves some 800 meals to hungry kids each week. But you don’t need to know about her progressive mission in order to enjoy her restaurants. Hoover has a preternatural understanding of how people want to eat, whether that means a Champagne bar (Petite Chou), an artisanal pizzeria (Napolese), or a marketfocused café and micro farm (Public Greens) that donates profits and crops to kids in need. She continues her revolution this year with the opening of Crispy Bird, Bar 114 and additional locations of Public Greens. patachouinc.com.

Joy Spence

APPLETON ESTATE As high-end rums finally garner the sort of recognition and desirability long attached to rare single-malt Scotches and ultra-añejo tequilas, there’s no one who deserves more credit than Joy Spence. Master Blender at the 268-year-old Appleton Estate in Jamaica, she was also the first woman to hold that title at any spirits company. And she’s a rum evangelist. “I love to introduce people to rum and watch as they become fascinated,” she says. It’s a common reaction, especially when Appleton is serving her recently released “Joy” rum, the distillery’s first 25-year blend. Spence has degrees in chemistry, and she pays forward her passion for the subject by teaching at the University of the West Indies, her alma mater, as well as other schools around the world. “I wish universities and the spirits industry would do more to encourage women to go into the field,” she says. “There are no gender barriers in the world of blending.” appletonestate.com. 52

6 Linda Appel Lipsius

TEATULIA Regenerating an ecosystem with delicious singleorigin tea.

Green 7 Kirsten +

FORERUNNER VENTURES

Susan Lyne BBG VENTURES Helping food-tech companies build a path to success.

8 Ntsiki Biyela 9 April Bloomfield Michelle Gellar 10 Sarah and Galit Laibow

WINEMAKER Breaking barriers in South Africa’s wine industry. CHEF Shaping a generation of boundary-pushing chefs.

FOODSTIRS Making home cooking convenient and healthier.

11 Daina Trout 12 Karissa Kruse

HEALTH-ADE KOMBUCHA Fueling the gut revolution.

SONOMA WINEGROWERS Guiding a wine industry toward sustainability.

13 Liz Muller 14 Vivian Howard

STARBUCKS Designing stores that think globally, act locally. CHEF/COOKBOOK AUTHOR/ TV HOST Building an influential multihyphenate brand.

15 Isabelle Legeron 16 Chloe Epstein

RAW WINE Bringing transparency to winemaking.

CHLOE’S SOFT SERVE AND POPS Putting a healthy spin on frozen treats.

17 Lori Silverbush

DIRECTOR-ACTIVIST Fighting hunger in America and holding leaders accountable.

18 Rosio Sánchez 19 Véronique Drouhin

CHEF Putting Mexican food in the spotlight.

DOMAINE DROUHIN Expanding a 137-year-old Burgundian family legacy to Oregon.

20 Angela Garbacz

GOLDENROD PASTRIES Creating a better, more inclusive bakery.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Arts, food, shopping, entertainment, outdoors and more â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Houston has it all! Planning the perfect getaway is easier than ever! Get started by building a custom travel itinerary and create your inspired Houston vacation at VisitHOUSTON.com.

#MyHouston

MAKE DINNER SOMETHING MEMORABLE.

WHAT TO COOK NOW

HANDBOOK

photographs: david cicconi; food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers

Low and slow is the secret to this meltingly tender brisket (p. 57).

This Monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen Lineup 56 COOK THE BOOK

Tasty recipes from the Cherry Bombe cookbook. 58 CHEF-INSPIRED

The best restaurant tricks, turned into great recipes. 60 MAD GENIUS TIPS

Delicious uses for rotisserie chicken with Justin Chapple. 65 NOW SERVING

An irresistible apple cobbler for autumn. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O C TO B E R 2017

Do More with Your Meals!

Handbook

What to Cook Now

COOK THE BOOK

Instead of roasting brussels sprouts, slice and serve them raw with a zippy Caesar dressing.

7 cooking functions in one appliance – including AirFry Introducing a healthier way to fry, and so much more! The Cuisinart® AirFryer Toaster Oven is actually a premium full-size toaster oven with a built-in air fryer. That means it not only bakes, broils, and toasts, it also lets you air fry right inside the oven. Air frying, which uses powerful ultra-hot air and 98% less oil than deep-frying, is a healthier way to cook, allowing you to prepare delicious fried favorites, from wings and fritters to fries and shrimp, using little or no fat in the cooking process! Enjoy the crunch without the calories and messy cleanup, with the AirFryer Toaster Oven from Cuisinart!

Dyn-O-Mite! A spirited cookbook from the founders of the journal Cherry Bombe celebrates the inspiring women—from bloggers to stylists to star chefs—who are shaking up the food world today.

Sur La Table Kohl’s • Macy’s

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Handbook

“AHHHH, THE SWEET LIFE.”

What to Cook Now

Warhol had his Superstars. Kerry Diamond and Claudia Wu? They’ve got their Bombe Squad. The duo is known for casting a spotlight on influential women shaping and disrupting the world of food via their stylish indie journal Cherry Bombe and annual Jubilee conference. Here at F&W, we eagerly tear through every issue of Diamond and Wu’s twice-yearly magazine, and we’re doing the same with their first book, Cherry Bombe: The Cookbook, which is being published this month. Among its recipes are simple treats, such as Best New Chef alum Iliana Regan’s buttered chanterelles, and soul-warmers like the braised brisket featured here from Jessamyn Rodriguez, whose nonprofit Hot Bread Kitchen helps immigrant women launch their own careers in the food business. It all adds up to a refreshing, intimate (and proudly pink!) survey of some of the smartest female voices in food now. That it doubles as a wish list for women we want at our next dinner party—well, that’s just a cherry on top. —JORDANA ROTHMAN

Brisket with Sweetand-Sour Onions page 55 Active 20 min; Total 5 hr; Serves 10 One 5-lb. brisket, preferably first cut Kosher salt and pepper 4 onions, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rings ¼ cup ketchup 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar 4 garlic cloves, minced

Caesar Brussels Salad Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 25 min; Serves 10 DRESSING

2 large egg yolks 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 5 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained 3 Tbsp. chopped parsley leaves, plus more leaves for garnish 2 Tbsp. chopped chives 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. white wine vinegar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup grapeseed oil BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Small cilantro sprigs, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. Season the brisket generously with salt and pepper. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, spread the onions in a single layer and lay the brisket on top. In a small bowl, whisk the ketchup with the tomato paste, soy sauce, brown sugar and garlic. Spread the sauce all over the brisket. 2. Cover the casserole and transfer to the oven. Braise the brisket for about 3 hours, until the meat is very tender. Uncover and continue cooking for 1 hour, until the sauce has thickened. Let the brisket cool slightly in the sauce for 30 minutes. 3. Transfer the brisket to a work surface and slice across the grain. Arrange the slices on a platter and spoon some of the sauce over the top. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the remaining sauce on the side. —Jessamyn Rodriguez MAKE AHEAD The brisket in its sauce can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. WINE Robust Zinfandel: 2015 Cline

Ancient Vines.

2 lbs. brussels sprouts ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, finely grated Kosher salt and pepper ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Make the dressing In a food processor, pulse the egg yolks, lemon juice, anchovies, chopped parsley, chives, mustard and vinegar until smooth. With the machine on, drizzle in both oils until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic and refrigerate. Clean out the processor. 2. Make the brussels sprouts Thinly slice 2 cups of the smallest brussels sprouts and transfer to a large bowl. In a food processor fitted with the slicing blade, shred the remaining brussels sprouts; transfer to the bowl. Toss with the olive oil, vinegar and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand for 1 hour. Toss in the Caesar dressing and cheese. Garnish with parsley and serve. —Julia Sherman

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT. FEED YOUR

INNER KID F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Handbook

CHEF-INSPIRED

“YEP, STILL CRUNCHY!”

What to Cook Now

Tricks of the Trade Salami in fried rice? Absolutely! Sunflower seeds in gremolata? You bet. Use these clever chef ideas for tonight’s supersatisfying supper. RECIPES BY JUSTIN CHAPPLE

The Inspiration CHEF JASON ZYGMONT

At The Treehouse in Nashville, Zygmont showers charred okra with his crunchy, bright gremolata. It’s delicious on these pork chops, too.

Pork Chops with Sunflower Seed Gremolata Total 30 min; Serves 4 Four 12-oz. bone-in pork rib chops, cut 1½ inches thick Kosher salt and pepper 1 Tbsp. canola oil ½ cup finely chopped parsley ¼ cup roasted salted sunflower seeds 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges for serving

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT.

1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet. Season the pork chops all over with salt and pepper. Add the oil to the skillet and swirl to coat. Add the pork chops and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned and an instantread thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 135°, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes.

Sweet, spicy gochujang adds fire to this take on Italian cioppino. above: Zesty, nutty gremolata livens up pan-seared chops.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the parsley with the sunflower seeds, garlic and lemon zest. Season the gremolata with salt and pepper. Serve the pork chops with lemon wedges and the gremolata. WINE Spicy rosé: 2016 Tablas Creek

Vineyard Patelin de Tablas.

FEED YOUR

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Handbook

“YOU GUESSED IT, STILL CRUNCHY!”

What to Cook Now

The Inspiration

CHEF BRYANT NG

CHEF JUSTIN SMILLIE

In this brilliant riff on Ng’s fried rice with cured Chinese sausage, Chapple swaps in salami and mortadella for an Italian-Chinese mash-up.

At Miami’s Upland, Smillie laces cioppino with gochujang. To give the dish even more of a Korean twist, we include silky bites of firm tofu as well.

Charcuterie Fried Rice

Gochujang Cioppino

Total 40 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup canola oil 4 large eggs, beaten Kosher salt and pepper 4 oz. spicy salami, cut into ¼-inch dice 4 oz. mortadella with pistachios, cut into ¼-inch dice ¼ cup minced ginger 6 garlic cloves, minced 6 cups steamed white rice, cooled 3 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 cup chopped cilantro 3 scallions, thinly sliced Sambal oelek, for serving

1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the eggs and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat until set on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Fold the omelet over itself and cook until just golden and set, about 2 minutes more. Using a slotted spatula, transfer to a work surface to cool slightly, then coarsely chop. 2. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil in the skillet. Add the salami and mortadella and stir-fry over moderately high heat until lightly browned and barely rendered, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir-fry until hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and lime juice, then fold in the eggs, cilantro and scallions. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with sambal oelek. WINE Italian rosé: 2016 La Valentina

Total 40 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 scallions, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish One 15-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand ½ cup dry white wine 3 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) One 8-oz. bottle clam juice ½ lb. shelled and deveined large shrimp ½ lb. cleaned squid, bodies thinly sliced and tentacles halved ½ lb. mussels, scrubbed ½ lb. cod, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ lb. firm tofu, cut into 1-inch pieces Rice crackers or steamed rice, for serving

1. In a large cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add the onion, garlic and the 2 sliced scallions; cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 7 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, wine and gochujang and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes just start to break down, about 5 minutes. 2. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil. Nestle the seafood and tofu in the broth. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the mussels open and the other seafood is opaque, about 7 minutes. Ladle the cioppino into shallow bowls and garnish with scallion. Serve with rice crackers or steamed rice. WINE Off-dry Washington state Riesling:

2015 Poet’s Leap.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.

Get these recipes, build grocery lists and share calendars with this free mealplanning app from Time Inc., available on iTunes and Google Play.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT. FEED YOUR

What to Cook Now

Bird in Hand Want to do more with that rotisserie chicken? Justin Chapple shares simple and craveable ideas, from an herby pasta to spicy calzones.

Pappardelle with Chicken and Pistachio-Mint Pesto Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6 1½ cups lightly packed mint leaves, plus more for garnish ½ cup shelled unsalted pistachios ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper

Pistachios in the pesto make this easy chicken and pasta pop.

8 oz. pappardelle pasta 12 oz. shredded rotisserie chicken (3 cups) 1 small zucchini, very thinly sliced or shaved 1 small yellow squash, very thinly sliced or shaved 1½ cups mixed cherry tomatoes, halved, or quartered if large

1. In a food processor, combine the 1 1/2 cups of mint with the pistachios and lemon juice and pulse until finely chopped. With the machine on, gradually add the olive oil until incorporated and the pesto is nearly smooth. Scrape into a large bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. 2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain well, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta, chicken, zucchini, yellow squash, tomatoes and reserved cooking water to the pesto and toss well. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss again. Garnish with mint leaves and serve right away. MAKE AHEAD The pistachiomint pesto can be refrigerated overnight. Bring it to room temperature before using. WINE Floral, medium-bodied

Italian white: 2015 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina.

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

bowl by jim franco ceramics

MAD GENIUS TIPS

Handbook

What to Cook Now

MAD GENIUS TIPS

Justin vents the calzone dough to allow moisture to escape during cooking.

Buffalo Chicken Calzones Active 20 min; Total 45 min Serves 4 ½ cup Buffalo sauce, preferably Frank’s RedHot 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 lb. shredded rotisserie chicken (4 cups) 1 lb. pizza dough, halved 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack (4 oz.) Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Flaky sea salt and coarse black pepper Blue cheese dressing and celery, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a saucepan,

combine the buffalo sauce and butter and simmer over moderate heat until the butter is melted, 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the chicken. 2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of dough to a 10-inch round. Transfer to one side of the baking sheet. Spoon half the chicken on one half of the dough round and top with half of the cheese. Fold the dough over the filling. Moisten the edge with water, then crimp to seal. Cut 3 slits in the top, then brush the calzone with olive oil and season with flaky salt and black pepper. Repeat to make one more calzone. 3. Bake the calzones for about 20 minutes, until the crust is golden. Let stand for 5 minutes, then serve with blue cheese dressing and celery.

Spicy Coconut Chicken Stew with Corn Total 30 min; Serves 4

This sweet-spicy coconut milk– based stew gets bright flavor from spinach, basil, chiles and lime juice. 2 Tbsp. canola oil 3 shallots, thinly sliced 2 fresh Thai chiles, thinly sliced One 15-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk ½ cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth ¼ cup fresh lime juice Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. shredded rotisserie chicken (4 cups)

In present-day Belize, Maya families still craft traditional ﬂavors of the past. Savor the indigenous cuisine still prepared in the tradition of our ancestors; from chocolate to tortillas to pork pibil tacos.

Discover how to be at travelbelize.org

1 ½ cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 to 3 ears) 3 cups spinach leaves 1 cup basil leaves, plus more for serving

In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil. Add the shallots and chiles and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stock and lime juice and bring just to a simmer. Season the broth generously with salt and pepper. Stir in the chicken and corn and cook until hot, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach and simmer until just wilted, then stir in the 1 cup of basil. Transfer to shallow bowls, garnish with basil and serve. WINE Oaky California Chardonnay: 2014 Napa Cellars.

N O I T A R OPE ION

VACAT

TAKE A STAND. TAKE TIME OFF. Millions of Americans leave their vacation days unused each year. Don’t be a statistic. Check out our special offers—from last-minute quick breaks to dream-worthy escapes—and get away now!

TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM/ OPERATION-VACATION

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

NOW SERVING

Handbook

What to Cook Now

Seeds of Love Pomegranate puts a tangy twist on the apple cobbler that’s destined to become your go-to fall dessert. Ice cream (sort of) optional. RECIPE BY LAURA REGE

Apple-Pomegranate Cobbler Active 30 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 8 to 10 2 cups pomegranate juice 6 Granny Smith apples (3 lbs.)— peeled, halved, cored and sliced ½ inch thick 1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling 2¼ cups all-purpose flour Kosher salt 2 tsp. baking powder 1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 cup cold heavy cream, plus more for brushing Pomegranate seeds and vanilla ice cream, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Place an 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish on a foillined rimmed baking sheet. In a small saucepan, bring the pomegranate juice to a boil over moderately high heat until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 15 minutes.

Pour the juice into a large bowl and fold in the apples, ¾ cup of the sugar, ¼ cup of the flour and ½ teaspoon of salt. Scrape the mixture into the baking dish. 2. In another large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 cups of flour with the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, the baking powder and ½ teaspoon of salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry cutter or 2 knives, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles very coarse crumbs, with some pieces the size of small peas. Gently stir in the 1 cup of cream just to combine. 3. Gather the topping into small clumps and scatter over the apple filling. Brush the topping with cream and sprinkle generously with sugar. Bake the cobbler for 60 to 70 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling and the topping is golden. Tent with foil if the crust browns too quickly. Let cool for 20 minutes. Serve sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and topped with vanilla ice cream.

Instead of lemon, pomegranate juice adds a pleasing tartness and great flavor.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

TRAVEL JOURNAL

Postcard from

This spicy shrimp and coconut curry from southern India (p. 68) is tomato-y, not creamy. O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food photographs: david cicconi; food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers

OUR GLOBE-TROTTING CONTRIBUTOR ANDREW ZIMMERN SHARES HIS MOST DELICIOUS DISCOVERIES FROM THE ROAD.

NOTHING This is what a contact lens should feel like

These contact lenses create a cushion of moisture on your eye making them so comfortable, you’ll forget you’re wearing them.

SAVE $200 ON AN ANNUAL SUPPLY VIA REBATE*—VISIT DAILIESTOTAL1.COM Savings via mail-in or online rebate.

*Rebate is in the form of an Alcon Visa Prepaid Card. Must be a new patient to DAILIES TOTAL1® or DAILIES ® AquaComfort Plus ® contact lenses and must purchase an annual supply of DAILIES TOTAL1® or DAILIES ® AquaComfort Plus ® contact lenses within 90 days of eye exam and/or contact lens fitting. Applies to purchases from participating retailers only. Visit DAILIESCHOICE.com for full terms and conditions. Offer ends 12-31-17. Ask your eye care professional for complete wear, care, and safety information. © 2016 Novartis 11/16 US-DAL-16-E-2863(1)a

Travel Journal

India

CURRY CURRY Authentic recipes feature copious herbs, chiles and spices—never commercial curry powder. This variation from the state of Kerala in southwest India isn’t simmered with the cream or yogurt typical of the dairy-rich north. It’s lighter but still deeply flavored with the region’s hallmark ingredients: coconut, curry leaves, mustard seeds, red chiles, and raw rice toasted and used like a spice.

Shrimp Curry with Coconut, Mustard Seeds and Chiles page 66 Active 50 min; Total 1 hr 50 min Serves 4 ½ cup finely shredded unsweetened coconut 1½ lbs. large shrimp, shelled and deveined 6 shallots, minced (1 cup) 1 tsp. mustard seeds

2. In a large bowl, toss the shrimp with the toasted coconut, 1/3 cup of the shallots, the mustard seeds and turmeric. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, in a small, dry skillet, toast the coriander seeds, raw rice, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, dried chiles and 4 of the curry leaves over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool, then grind to a powder.

½ tsp. ground turmeric

1 Tbsp. raw basmati rice, plus cooked rice for serving 2 tsp. cumin seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds 2 small dried red chiles

The author in front of Charminar, Hyderabad’s iconic Four Minarets monument.

12 fresh curry leaves (see Note) 2 cups packed cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish

’VE SPENT WEEKS CRISSCROSSING

India’s incredibly diverse landscape, from the northwest mountains and the southern plains to the extensive coastal regions, and the food is as varied as the country’s geography. The sophistication of Hyderabad’s chile-laden cuisine, in southern India, with its emphasis on sourness, is a striking contrast to the rich, complex braises of the northwestern states, like Kashmir, and to the many meatless dishes that make up the backbone of cooking in Mumbai. That city, formerly known as Bombay and built on chaos and a blending of cultures, is truly a vegetarian’s paradise, but, situated on the coast, it is also home to fantastic spicy seafood dishes. And because Mumbai is an economic hub, with visitors from meat-eating parts of India and elsewhere, lamb and mutton dishes can be found here, too. If those meats are your thing, you’ll also love Old Delhi’s Muslim Mughlai cafés, where locals indulge in nayaab maghz masala, mutton brain cooked with curd and curry; kalije, savory liver and kidneys; and nalli nihari, a spicy stew made with beef or buffalo marrow, feet and skin. And yes, you can get all those dishes with other cuts of meat as well. In America, we love to eat Indian, but, because it seems complicated and intimidating to cook, we rarely prepare it at home. Let’s change that. Here are a couple of simple, familiar dishes that represent different regions. As the weather turns colder, nothing is as warming or splendidly comforting. O C TO B E R 2017

1 cup packed mint leaves ½ cup tamarind puree 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped Kosher salt and pepper ¼ cup ghee One 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated (2 tsp.) 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 large tomato—halved and shredded on the large holes of a box grater, skin discarded

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the shredded coconut on a small rimmed baking sheet and toast, tossing halfway through, for about 4 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool.

4. In a blender, pulse the 2 cups of cilantro with the mint, tamarind puree, brown sugar, lime juice and jalapeño until a finely chopped chutney forms. Season with salt. 5. In a large, deep skillet, heat the ghee until shimmering. Add the remaining 2/3 cup of shallots, the ginger and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. 6. Season the shrimp mixture with salt and pepper, add to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat until the shrimp starts to turn pink, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato and the spice mixture and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in 1½ cups of water and the remaining 8 curry leaves, bring to a simmer and cook until the shrimp are just opaque throughout, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with cilantro; serve with the chutney and cooked rice. NOTE Indian cooks typically keep in the fragrant but tough whole curry leaves, but they are not to be eaten, so push them to the side of your plate. WINE Dry, lime-scented

Australian Riesling: 2016 Best’s Great Western.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

courtesy of travel channel

2 Tbsp. coriander seeds

THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS TO MAKING GREAT ICED TEA. Real tea leaves, carefully dried to coax out all the subtle tea flavors — it’s the only way I know to make a delicious, smooth iced tea.

Alex White,

Pure Leaf Tea Master

Pure Leaf.

Our Thing is Tea.

Find out more at pureleaf.com

2017 PURE LEAF is a trademark of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.

Travel Journal

India

SAAG PANEER This spicy, intensely green dish of spinach (saag) studded with cubes of fresh homemade cheese (paneer) is a classic from northern India, but it’s popular throughout the country. The choice of greens varies from region to region, but spinach is most commonly used. Eaten with roti, the traditional whole-wheat flatbread, this recipe is a meal in itself, yet most often I serve it as a side dish. If you have kids in the house, prepare it with them. There’s very little knife work, and the magic of cheesemaking astounds young cooks. Or you can swap in two 14-ounce packages of firm tofu.

Silky Spinach with Fresh Cheese Active 1 hr 15 min Total 2 hr 30 min Serves 8 to 10 10 cups whole milk 3½ cups heavy cream 2/3

cup distilled white vinegar

½ cup ghee Kosher salt and white pepper 1 large onion, finely chopped (2 cups) One 5-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated (2 Tbsp.) 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp. cumin seeds, ground 2 tsp. ground turmeric 2 tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. chili powder ¼ tsp. cayenne Three 10-oz. packages thawed frozen chopped spinach, squeezed dry 1 large tomato, chopped

1. In the sink, line a large colander with 4 layers of moistened cheesecloth, leaving 2 inches of overhang. In a very large saucepan, bring the milk and 2 cups

HUNGRY FOR MORE? Try Zimmern’s favorite dishes from his travels at foodandwine.com /andrew-zimmern.

of the cream to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and slowly add the vinegar, stirring constantly, then cook until the milk separates into fluffy curds and watery whey, about 2 minutes. Pour into the colander and let drain for 1 hour. 2. Gather the corners of the cheesecloth and twist the curds into a ball, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Tie the cheesecloth, then transfer the curds to a work surface with the twisted end to the side. Set a cutting board on top and weigh it down with heavy skillets or large cans. Let the curds stand until firm and dry, about 15 minutes. Remove the cheesecloth and cut the cheese into 1-inch pieces. 3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat ¼ cup of the ghee until shimmering. Season the cheese with salt and add half of it to the skillet. Cook over moderate heat, turning often, until the cheese is golden on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining cheese.

One thing you won’t ﬁnd in Belize: big, international, fast-food chains. Instead, travelers can get delicious home-cooked meals served up quickly at one of our famous street-food vendors.

Discover how to be at travelbelize.org

4. Add the remaining ¼ cup of ghee and the onion to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the ginger, garlic, cumin, turmeric, coriander, chili powder and cayenne and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the spinach and tomato and cook, stirring, until warm, about 2 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 1/2 cups of cream and 1 cup of water and

cook, stirring, until most of the liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Fold in the cheese, season with salt and white pepper and serve. VARIATION Swap the frozen spinach for a mix of fresh stemmed kale, amaranth and watercress. MAKE AHEAD The precooked cheese can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

The Belize Barrier Reef is our living, breathing crown jewel. It spans almost 200 miles and maintains hundreds of species of aquatic life. But what really draws divers is the unknown: only a fraction of the reef has been researched, only 10% of species have been discovered. Here, every dive is an opportunity to see something completely new in one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most diverse ecosystems. Discover how to be at travelbelize.org

THE POUR

Down and Dusty

FORGET THE LATEST SMALL-BATCH BOURBONS AND RARE SINGLE MALTS. FOR CERTAIN WHISKEY FANATICS THE BIGGEST THRILL IS SCOURING SHOPS FOR PRIZED OLD BOTTLES THEY CALL DUSTIES. WRITER GINA HAMADEY JOINS THE HUNT.

HEN BILL THOMAS is dusty hunting, he doesn’t take lunch or bathroom breaks. So my stomach is growling as we pull up to our 19th liquor store of the day, hoping to come away with a “kill,” the term Thomas and like-minded obsessives use for the valuable old “dusty” bottles of whiskey they find hiding in plain sight.

O C TO B E R 2017

I’d been introduced to the world of dusties a few months before, when my college friend Matt was visiting from Detroit. One night, he sat on our couch scrolling through online groups full of people posting bottom-shelf whiskeys from the 1980s and earlier. These bottles now sell for hundreds of dollars (mostly illegally, it should be mentioned). It’s not that Gina Hamadey, the former travel editor at Food & Wine, is the author of ¡Buenos Nachos!.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

jason hornick

Some of the spoils amassed by vintage whiskey collector Bill Thomas.

THE OFFICIAL WINE OF

SEASON 17

casillerodeldiablo.com

Tune in to Hell’s Kitchen on ©2017 Excelsior Wine Company, Old Brookville, NY. Hell’s Kitchen®, HK® and the HK pitchfork logo are registered trademarks of ITV Studios Ltd. Used under license. FOX ™ Fox and its related entities. All Rights Reserved.

The Pour

Vintage Whiskey

the booze has improved with age, Matt tells me. The quality was often better back then, he claims, because whiskeys were made for a smaller, more discerning audience. And the most coveted “juice” comes from two now-shuttered distilleries: National Distillers (ND, for short) and Stitzel-Weller, which at one time bottled Old Fitzgerald and Pappy Van Winkle. A few weeks later Matt shipped me a sample of Old Taylor 6 Year, an ND bottling that retailed for $15 in 1988. The bottle that cost him $70 two years ago would now command $250. Matt calls it a “butterscotch bomb,” for its corn-forward sweetness and burnt-sugar notes. “Everyone is hunting these ND bottlings,” he says. “They represent the honey barrel.” Now I was intrigued. But dusty hunters are like truffle hunters or antique pickers—secretive about where they find their treasures. Matt suggested I talk to Bill Thomas, owner of Washington, DC’s Jack Rose Dining Saloon, which has an epic collection of 2,700 whiskeys. Once I reach Thomas, he quickly launches into an account of one of his most successful dusty-hunting trips, in New York

S WE LEAVE DC for southern Maryland, the scenery becomes greener, and Thomas offers up his first tip: “The more rural, the better.” He adds that the longer a store has been in business, the higher the odds of finding a collectible bottle. Freestanding buildings are better than stores in strip malls. “And an under new management sign is great,” he continues, because bottles may surface during the changeover. To my slight alarm, a wall of bulletproof glass between customers and the cashier is also deemed a good sign. “Maybe nobody has talked their way behind the glass yet,” he explains.

Thomas on the hunt; a green tax strip signaling a pre-1982 unblended whiskey; looking for clues on a bottle’s underside.

City in 2006 or 2007—“when people cared about single malts but not bourbon,” he says. With a collapsible hand truck, he started at the Battery and zigzagged across the city, guided by a laminated map and a list of liquor stores. By day’s end he’d loaded up on whiskeys from the 1970s and ’80s, bought at their original prices (as low as $7.99). Some would sell for more than a hundred times that today. “It was a gold mine,” he says. But now everything has changed. Bourbon has skyrocketed in popularity, and smartphones make it easy to identify prize bottles on the spot. Most liquor stores are now “hunted out,” Thomas explains. “If I could, I’d go back and buy all the 86 proof Old Grand-Dads. And the Stitzel-Weller Dusty hunters Rebel Yells—I left some of are like truffle those behind. It seemed hunters or antique like there was a neverpickers–secretive ending supply.” about where they These days, Thomas find their treasures. buys mostly from other O C TO B E R 2017

There’s a distinct routine in each store we visit. First, we make a beeline for the whiskey section (of course). On the bottom shelf Thomas checks for any large-format bottles that have escaped notice. He peeks behind the front bottles to see if any strays are hiding. On the top shelf he looks for faded gift boxes containing Old Grand-Dad or Old Fitzgerald dusties. “I save behind the counter for last,” he tells me. He chats up the clerks, too: “Any old bottles back there?” You’ve likely found a “kill,” I learn, if a bottle has a green tax strip over the cap, dating it to before 1982. The green strip also indicates that the whiskey was bottled in bond, meaning it’s 100 proof, made at one distillery, from a single growing season (i.e., not blended) and aged at least four years. (Blended, or “unbonded,” whiskeys got red tax strips and are less valuable but still worth seeking out.) While some distilleries continued to use faux tax strips after 1985, those were purely decorative. Real strips say atf or u.s. internal revenue on them. There are other tells, too. Is the whiskey measured in ounces or milliliters? Ounces are pre-1979; milliliters, post-1981. 74

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

left and right: jason hornick; middle: brittany garrison

from left :

collectors and auctions. But he can’t quit dusty hunting. “There’s still a little magic left out there,” he tells me. Which is how I recently came to spend the day with him and his publicist and fiancée, Brittany Garrison, a whiskey aficionado in her own right, getting an advanced lesson in dusty hunting.

WHEN YOU SOURCE FROM THE BEST CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS , EVERY YEAR IS YOUR BEST VINTAGE . Making wines with perfectly balanced taste is our passion. In fact, we have spent over 40 years negotiating with the most acclaimed vineyards for the best grapes to blend award-worthy Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. And while our wines are unique from one vintage to the next, one thing remains a constant—you’re getting the best of California in every bottle, every time.

The Pour

Vintage Whiskey

Liquid Assets: Bottles to Look For After years in the doldrums, American whiskey is now in a golden age. Exports are booming, even to the most unlikely places (Latvia alone imported over 3 million bottles last year—roughly two bottles apiece for every man, woman and child). And just in the US, sales in the $29-and-up “superpremium” category jumped up 127 percent between 2011 and 2016. The skyrocketing prices of these rare bottles reflect that heat. OLD TAYLOR BOTTLED IN BOND BOURBON 1976 RETAIL PRICE:

JIM BEAM DISTILLER’S MASTERPIECE 2000 RETAIL PRICE:

OLD RIP VAN WINKLE 15-YEAR SQUAT BOTTLE 2002 RETAIL PRICE:

AH HIRSCH GOLD FOIL 2005 RETAIL PRICE:

PRICE IN 2017:

$800

$300

$40

$1,300

$1,800

$1,250

Peeking from behind a bottle of Strega is a yellow Chartreuse with a scratched label. It has been sitting on a shelf for nearly 50 years, still priced at $18.

of Pappy Van Winkle and calls his wife to text a picture. Thomas offers $500 for the pair. He could “flip them and make $200,” he later tells me, but says he’d rather hang onto them to pour at a new bar he hopes to open in Louisville, Kentucky. Thomas is still hunting for the right location, but he envisions it as a massive tasting museum. One of his ideas is to offer every whiskey that Stitzel-Weller produced from 1935 to 1992. The reason he’ll be able to do that, lawfully, is that as of January, a new Kentucky statute will allow stores and restaurants to buy and resell (or serve) unopened vintage bottles of whiskey. “Look, we’re territorial,” Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association, remarks when I call him. “If there’s going to be a world’s-greatestbourbon library, it’s got to be in Kentucky.” By the time we walk into our 27th store, Spar Liquor in DC, we are flagging. Thomas is on his tiptoes trying to make out the whiskey selection behind the bulletproof glass. Garrison spots a faded bottle of Pernod, but the particles visibly floating inside indicate that the liqueur is not only old but also undrinkable. As we head toward the door, however, Garrison shrieks, “Chartreuse!” Peeking from behind a bottle of Strega is a yellow Chartreuse with a scratched label. It’s 86 proof, a tell that means it was made before 1972. The bottle has been sitting on a shelf for nearly 50 years, still priced at $18. “But it isn’t whiskey,” I point out. Thomas dismisses this quibble. He’d started taking notice of Chartreuse four years ago, when he sat through a Bonhams auction and watched a bottle go for $750. Since then, the spirit has shot up in value. The bottle we have in hand, I later learn, is worth about $300. “This wins the day,” Thomas proclaims. It did indeed. Vintage French liqueur might not have been our primary quarry, but for a moment, as the cashier slipped it into a bag and handed it over, I felt that dusty-hunting thrill.

More of Thomas’s finds.

A label with both means it was bottled between those years. UPC code? They gained popularity in 1986. Surgeon general’s warning? That became mandatory in 1989. If remembering all these details sounds daunting, you can always borrow my friend Matt’s shortcut: Search for the bottle on whiskeyid.com. At Mike’s Liquor in Oxon Hill, Maryland, Thomas tries another tack and simply asks the cashier if he has anything interesting at home. Bingo. The fellow says he has two bottles O C TO B E R 2017

$150

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

jason hornick

W I N E RY

BOTTLE SERVICE

The 25-Bottle Guide to

Wine Mastery WANT TO TAKE YOUR WINE SMARTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL? EASY PEASY. JUST FOLLOW THIS SIMPLE, CAN’T-MISS TASTING TUTORIAL. BY RAY ISLE ILLUSTRATIONS BY BEN WISEMAN

ASK ANY WINE EXPERT what’s the best way to learn about wine, and they’ll tell you to taste as much as you can. But where to start? And for that matter, where to finish? There are almost 20,000 different wines for sale in the US at any given moment. So even if you’re a zillionaire with a ton of spare time, tasting more than a tiny fraction of what’s available clearly is not an option. To save you from getting completely overwhelmed, here’s a 25-bottle starter guide to wine wisdom. You’ll need a budget of roughly $1,000, which sounds like a lot, but you don’t have to buy all of the bottles up front—one a week will suffice (and check out foodandwine .com/master-wine for alternate choices). Also, the point here isn’t to drown you in technical wine geekery. If you are keen to know the geological origins of Portugal’s Douro Valley, Google’s your friend. The purpose of this exercise is to leave you with a mental library of tastes that you can refer to anytime you try a new wine. In fact, maybe the thing to do is to think of this as a game rather than a rigorous course of study—like The Game of Life for wine. Follow the path in order. Each bottle leads to the next. You accumulate experience. But instead of retiring at the end, you wind up with a bunch of wine smarts and the rest of your days ahead of you. Not bad, right?

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

ÂŠ2017 Universal Wine Network, Livermore, CA

Bottle Service

Guide to Wine Mastery

Start with Start with the Basics the Basics

Branch Branch Out Out

Compare Compare & & Contrast Contrast

1. Every journey needs a good send-off, so begin with Champagne. It’s the ur–sparkling wine, the one after which all others are modeled. For a benchmark, open the NV Pol Roger Brut Réserve White Foil ($50), a brioche-scented bubbly from one of the last major houses that’s still family owned.

6. Remember the oak-inflected taste of the La Crema? Now try its opposite: a crisp, lighter-bodied, almost chalky Chardonnay from France, like the 2016 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin ($26). Same grape, two distinctly different styles.

11. & 12. France’s Sancerre has been a premier location for Sauvignon Blanc since the early 1900s; New Zealand is the new kid on the block. Buy a couple of top bottles to compare: the flinty, citrusy 2016 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre ($34) and the peppery, grassy 2016 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($31). Odds are you’ll like one better than the other; use that knowledge as a guide.

2. Chardonnay is the most popular grape variety in the US. Familiarize yourself with the classic California style—ripe fruit, spicy oak notes—with a wine like the 2015 La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($23). 3. To set your palate definition for Pinot Noir, go to the source: Burgundy. The 2014 Domaine Parent Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($30) shows how this grape, grown with care in the French region’s gently sloping vineyards, can offer intensity but remain light and graceful. 4. Napa Valley Cabernet is California’s iconic red wine. Try a standard-bearer like the 2014 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75), full of blackberry and black currant fruit.

5. Bordeaux is the most famous wine region in the world—don’t skip it. Most Bordeaux are blends, anchored by Cabernet or Merlot. And, contrary to the region’s image, you don’t have to pay a lot for an excellent bottle, S EDITOR’ like the tobacco-scented 2014 K PIC Château Sociando-Mallet ($40). If you taste this and the Phelps at the same time, try the Bordeaux first.

O C TO B E R 2017

7. As a counterpoint to the Pinot from Burgundy, open a more lushly fruity version from the Russian River Valley S in Sonoma County, California’s R’ O IT ED premier source for Pinots. Seek PICK out the 2015 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir ($44), from one of the AVA’s best vineyards. 8. Time to leave the US and France behind and head to Italy. First stop: Chianti, because you can’t say you know Italian wine without having a sense of Chianti’s bright, taut character. A quintessential example is the 2015 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico ($24). 9. Step up your Italian game with a bottle of Barolo, which is made from the Nebbiolo grape in northern Italy’s Piedmont region (and sometimes referred to as “the wine of kings, the king of wines”). The 2012 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Tradizione ($53) captures the wine’s signature floral delicacy as well as its underlying tannic power. 10. Europe’s third great source for reds is Spain, and Rioja is its most celebrated wine area. Go for a reserva from a traditional producer, such as the 2012 Marqués de Murrieta Reserva Rioja ($29). Its hints of vanilla and spice come from being aged in American oak.

13. & 14. Not all Rieslings are sweet! For a comparison—and to understand why sweeter-style Rieslings can be just as vibrant as dry ones—open two bottles from top German producer Dr. Loosen: the 2015 Dr. Loosen Red Slate Riesling Dry ($18) and the 2015 Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett ($22), which has a slight amount of residual sugar. 15. & 16. Hint for this step: First roast a leg of lamb (you’ll want something hearty to go with these wines), then pour a savory, cool-climate northern Rhône Syrah like the 2013 E. Guigal CrozesHermitage Rouge ($25) alongside a more luscious, fruity, warm-region Aussie Shiraz, such as the 2015 Hentley Farm Barossa Valley Shiraz ($28). And maybe invite a few friends over, too.

A definitive Syrah from France. @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top: courtesy of cloudy bay; courtesy of e. guigal; courtesy of joseph phelps vineyards

A screw cap on a $31 wine? Sure.

INTRODUCING THE

Coastal Living Home Collection ®

AT BED BATH & BEYOND®

Visit Our COASTAL LIVING Shop in Stores and Online at bedbathandbeyond.com/CoastalLiving SHOP BEDDING & BATH EXCLUSIVELY AT

*Furniture available online only

Bottle Service

17. All rosés taste alike, right? Light, simple summer sippers, perfect for poolside quaffing? Think again. The rosés of France’s Bandol region have the depth and character of great white wines. Open a bottle of the 2016 Domaine du Gros Noré Bandol Rosé ($32) and see for yourself. 18. It’s been 13 years since the movie Sideways came out, and yet, thanks to it, some people are still locked into the idea that Merlot is...bad. Or, at the very least, uncool. Dispel this prejudice with a layered, world-class example like the 2014 Pepper Bridge Walla Walla Valley Merlot ($50) from Washington state.

Push Push Your Limits Your Limits 21. Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley is a variety that many people aren’t familiar with, but its vivid acidity and substantial pear and apple flavors have made it a sommelier darling. Get a sense of why from the racy 2015 S EDITOR’ François Chidaine Clos du Breuil K PIC Montlouis-sur-Loire Sec ($30). 22. California is home to lots of famous wineries, but it also has an abundance of boundary-pushing young winemakers working outside traditional styles. Track down the tongue-prickling, spicy 2016 Donkey & Goat Twinkle Mourvèdre ($26) to experience a different vision of what the state’s wines can offer. 23. Natural wine is a flash point for Edgy, urban controversy. The term refers to wines made with minimal human intervention winemaking in California. (little or no sulfur, no industrial yeasts and so on). Sometimes they’re wonderful, sometimes funky, often both. Test out the exotic 2016 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Bianco ($28) from Sicily.

19. There’s more to Australian wine than cheap and cheerful Shiraz— S Cabernet Sauvignon from the R’ O IT ED far western Margaret River area PICK being a case in point. Indulge in a bottle of the graceful, red-fruited 2014 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) to get a sense of Australia’s surprising range. 20. Argentina’s Mendoza region made its name on bargain Malbecs, but there are impressive, ageworthy bottles produced there, too. Invest a little extra on a wine like the rich 2013 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo ($30) to understand the potential of these vineyards in the Andean foothills.

24. As wine ages, it trades in direct, fruity flavors for more subtle, savory ones. Find a reputable retailer (such as K&L Wines in San Francisco or Millesima in NYC) and splurge on an older red like the cedary 2006 Château Grand-PuyLacoste ($79) from Bordeaux. 25. Finally, taste a truly great wine. (You’ll overshoot your budget by a little, but what the heck!) What defines great? Nuance, complexity, history—on some level, greatness is indescribable, but it is tasteable. Open the 2010 André Brunel Les Cailloux Cuvée Centenaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($195), a spectacular Rhône red from a stellar vintage.

A white from a Sicilian star.

CONGRATS! CONGRATS! You’ve graduated. But for bonus points, check out the sommelier-fave indie bottles on page 86. O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top right: steve fisch; courtesy of agricola arianna occhipinti; courtesy of pepper bridge winery

Challenge Your Challenge Your Preconceptions Preconceptions

Guide to Wine Mastery

TASTING NOTES

How Punk Is Your Pinot?

H H

AVE YOU EVER HEARD of Guiberteau? How about Brézé? Or Saumur, for that matter? If you’re not in the wine business, or not obsessed with the wines of France’s Loire Valley, those names won’t mean much to you. But if you’re a sommelier, particularly at a restaurant with any aspirations to hipness, odds are good that the Guiberteau name will make your eyes light up. Bells might even start pinging in your head, like you’re some kind of crazy wine slot machine and you just hit a thousand-dollar winner. Going backward through those names, Saumur is a wine region in the Loire Valley. Brézé is a hill in Saumur, covered in Chenin Blanc vines. As for Guiberteau, I’ll let the importer’s words stand in for mine: “Romain Guiberteau owns some of the best land in Brézé and makes dry Chenins of punk rock violence, yet of Bach-like logic and profoundness.” Ooh—punk rock violence. Man, doesn’t that sound cool? To be fair, the Guiberteau wines are extremely good, and their importer, Becky Wasserman, has an unerring track record as a wine talent scout. But having spent my youth near enough mosh pits, I’d say there’s very little that any Chenin Blanc anywhere in the world has in common with being elbowed in the face by some sweaty aggro skinhead. The connotations are the point: “Punk” suggests outsider, break-the-rules, fight-the-power, while “violence” conjures intensity, power, surprise. O C TO B E R 2017

In restaurants right now, for a wine to be truly cool—and don’t think there aren’t cool and uncool wines—it needs to have at least a whisper of the transgressive. Call it punk, indie, alternative—whichever you want—but the music analogy is apt. If you don’t believe me, sift through the lists at wine-centric restaurants across the country. Three things will strike you. The first is linguistic: Wines that sommeliers are particularly excited about often come accompanied by adjectives like “expressive,” “independent” or “experimentalist.” Winemakers “subvert your expectations,” “man the battlements” or look “like an indie rock dj.” (I keep searching for a list with an “inexpressive,” “corporate” Cabernet made by “some old white guy who still listens to REO Speedwagon,” but no such luck.) Second, the characteristics of cutting-edge wines push boundaries. High acid is excellent; reductive funk, bring it on; some fuzz tone cloudiness—a deal-breaker in a Napa Cabernet—is intriguing, a hallmark of artistic ambition. The third thing, which is a little peculiar, is that these deeply individualistic, subversive wines pop up on wine list after wine list. It’s like when your trend-chasing friends all seem to start listening to the same undiscovered band at once. The current cool-kid playlist is heavy on the Loire, Jura and Champagne in France; loves the lo-fi movement of natural wine; and embraces talent in offbeat places such as the Canary Islands or Sicily’s Mount Etna (volcanoes are very in). Large-production “corporate” wine, like corporate rock, is anathema. Small importers have followings the way small record labels once 84

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

fin costello/redferns/getty

LIKE ANY SUBCULTURE, THE WINE WORLD HAS ITS INDIE STARS. RAY ISLE LOOKS AT THE INSIDER DARLINGS NOW AND WHAT GIVES THEM THEIR COOL-KID CRED.

Gifts they’ll

L OVE

Celebrate brides (and bridesmaids), new moms, and birthday girls with Real Simple Style — and show them that every day is their time to shine. E X C L U S I V E LY AT R E A L S I M P L E S T Y L E .C O M

pearl pairs earrings Pearl duos represent the happy couple. $22

sharable necklaces A birthday gift she can wear or share. $38

keepsake lockets Personalize with a photo of a new baby. $36

brothers in

vines JAKE BILBRO

SCOT BILBRO Marietta Cellars

Limerick Lane

SAM BILBRO Idlewild Wines

IN CALIFORNIA’S SONOMA COUNTY, THE BROTHERS BILBRO—JAKE, SCOT AND SAM—OVERSEE THREE VERY DIFFERENT WINERIES. BUT THEY’VE NEVER LOST SIGHT OF WHAT IT MEANS TO COME TOGETHER AS A FAMILY. TEXT BY RAY ISLE RECIPES BY JUSTIN CHAPPLE LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE MORRISONS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS BY CON POULOS

COOK THE COVER The smokiness of this luscious SheetPan Chicken with Sourdough and Bacon (p. 94) makes the dish ideal with an intense red. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O C TO B E R 2017

H OW MANY PEOPLE CAN say they once found their father asleep in a mushroom dehydrator? If you grew up at a winery in Sonoma County, your last name is Bilbro, and your first name is Jake, Scot or Sam, you can. As Scot Bilbro recalls, “My brothers and I have epic memories of playing hide-and-goseek in the winery with my dad. Once, he literally stuffed himself into a dehydrator, a three-by-three-foot box. It was the end of harvest, and he was just toast. The only way we found him was because we heard him snoring.” Such was being a kid at Marietta Cellars in Alexander Valley. The Bilbro boys’ father, Chris, founded the winery in 1978. He retired in 2012, and now, at a time when more and more California family wineries are succumbing to buyouts from corporate producers—victims of economic pressure, sibling squabbles or both—the Bilbros have mapped out a sustainable road to the future. Marietta, now owned and run by middle brother Scot, age 37, continues its successful run. Jake, 40, bought the moribund Limerick Lane winery in 2011 and has returned it to prominence, making intense reds from some of Sonoma’s most historic vineyards. And Sam, 34, has taken a third path, producing his elegant, Italian-variety Idlewild wines that are now sommelier and insider favorites. Essentially, a single wine made all this possible: Marietta’s rather unassumingly named Old Vine Red. It’s one of the great oddballs of California wine—a red blend created at a time, the

insider’s sonoma

JAKE, SCOT AND SAM BILBRO SHARE SOME OF THEIR GO-TO SPOTS FOR EATING, DRINKING AND HAVING FUN.

JAKE’S PICKS

SCOT’S PICKS

SAM’S PICKS

Bergamot Alley in Healdsburg is my favorite wine shop. Eclectic choices, locals young and not so young, artisanal grilled cheese sandwiches and even a record player. bergamotalley.com.

Diavola in Geyserville is a must. Order the Sonja pizza and add Calabrian chiles—it’s the best pie in Sonoma County. diavolapizzeria.com.

Campo Fina in Healdsburg has an amazing atmosphere, and the food is consistently delicious. Bocce on an outdoor patio with rustic Italian food—what’s not to like? campofina.com.

Trail House epitomizes the warmth and collegial spirit of the area’s mountain-biking community. It’s a top-notch place in Santa Rosa to get a coffee or a beer, even if you didn’t just finish a three-hour ride in Annadel State Park across the street. trailhousesantarosa.com. Underwood in Graton feels like The Great Gatsby meets Paris meets West Sonoma County—it’s got sensational food, cocktails, wine and a terrific overall vibe. underwoodgraton.com. O C TO B E R 2017

Dick Blomster’s in Guerneville is half bar and half diner—with a Korean twist (kimchi Reubens, for instance). Colorful, delicious and one of a kind. dickblomsters.com. Fitch Mountain is one of my favorite hikes. Take the spiral fire road all the way to the summit for a spectacular view of Healdsburg, the Russian River and beyond. ci.healdsburg.ca .us/742/Fitch-Mountain.

Flying Goat Coffee is just around the corner from my Idlewild Salumi & Wine Bar in Healdsburg. Grabbing a short latte here is my favorite way to procrastinate and avoid doing office work. flyinggoatcoffee.com. Los Plebes Taco Truck, at the Lytton Springs Road exit off 101, is a harvest essential. They have the tastiest al pastor tacos around. I’ve eaten far too many of them! No website.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

1980s, when nonvarietal red blends were an unsellable exception rather than the latest hot category (as they are now); a wine labeled with lot numbers rather than vintage years (the current release is Lot Number 66); and a killer bargain. Over the years it’s been wildly successful while also remaining one of the best values in California wine. “I often say I have Old Vine Red running through my veins,” remarks Jake. “Really, that’s where it started for all three of us.” Still, despite childhoods filled with winery high jinks and, later, winery work—“our chores centered on cleaning barrels,” says Jake—not one of the Bilbro brothers initially planned to go into the family business. “When I was 18 and leaving for college,” he recalls, “I sat down with my dad and told him, ‘I love you, and thank you for everything, but I am never going to work in the wine industry.’ ” His father’s reaction? “He basically patted me on the back, as all fathers should, and said, ‘Go get ’em. You’ll do great.’ ” With that blessing, Jake headed off into a career as a pro rugby player and occasional ski bum. Brothers Scot and Sam, who each told their father more or less the same thing, landed in equally unlikely pursuits: fishing guide in Alaska and bartender cum punk-rock guitarist, respectively. The moral, of course, is never say never about anything when you’re 18. By turns each brother was ensnared by home’s gravitational pull, and in their 20s each returned to northern Sonoma County. As Sam says regarding his decision, “If I’d struck gold with the band, that would have been great, but it didn’t take me long to realize that waking up in a van every morning with four guys who haven’t showered in a week is a really horrible situation.” But maybe this was inevitable. The family arrived in the US in the early 1900s, part of a wave of Italian immigrants who, like many others, wanted to trade southern Italy’s grinding poverty for a new start in Northern California. “I don’t think they moved here to grow grapes so much as just to survive,” Jake says. But grow grapes was what they did. And no, he admits, Bilbro doesn’t exactly sound Italian: “Whatever the name originally was, part of it got hacked off at Ellis Island.”

Jake Bilbro strolls the Limerick Lane vineyards at sunset. below right: His father, Chris, entertains the wine familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next generation.

crispy salmon and wilted chard, p. 114

Skillet by Lodge.

pasta with sausage and mustard greens, p. 94

Bowl by Sarah Kersten.

By 2009, all three brothers were working at Marietta. Even in a family with a gift for getting along, that situation wasn’t easy, especially once their father retired. Sam left first. Marietta’s focus has always been on substantial reds—Old Vine Red is mostly Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah—and Sam’s inclinations didn’t lean that way. “I’m after a lighter-bodied, higher-acid style,” he says. “I love my brothers’ wines, but with Idlewild I’m not trying for density as much as delicacy.” For a time, Jake and Scot ran Marietta together while also partnering at Limerick Lane, but it was a challenge. As Scot recounts, “I was driving back and forth making wine at both places, Jake was running sales for both, and we started joking that we had so many hats we didn’t even know where they all were.” Over time they reached a decision: Scot would take over Marietta and Jake would devote himself to Limerick Lane. Jake says: “It was, basically, let’s not get 30 years down the road and realize that we don’t talk as brothers anymore because we’re business partners.” Thanks to decisions like that, the Bilbros definitely still talk. They all live in Healdsburg (Sam recently opened a salumi and wine bar for Idlewild just off the main square), their children go to the same school, and it’s not remotely unusual on a weekend night to find them all cooking dinner together, as on Jake’s 40th birthday earlier this year. “That was at our family ranch,” Sam says. “At one point Jake raised his glass to make a toast, and it was something he’s said to me many times: ‘There’s nothing like friends who feel like brothers, and brothers who feel like friends.’”

best of the bilbros

ALL OF THE WINES FROM THE BILBROS’ THREE WINERIES ARE SUPERB, BUT HERE ARE SOME RECENT STANDOUTS.

Marietta Old Vine Red Lot Number 66 ($15) Juicy and plummy, this is the wine that started it all for the Bilbros. Their latest release is characteristically irresistible. 2016 Idlewild Arneis ($30) Floral and almondy, this delicate white shows Sam Bilbro’s nuanced touch with traditional Piedmontese varieties. 2015 Marietta Angeli Alexander Valley Zinfandel ($36) Made with old-vine Zinfandel from the winery’s home vineyard, this red is ripe and lush with dark berry flavors.

2015 Limerick Lane Russian River Estate Zinfandel ($42) Sourced from vineyards planted in the early 1900s, this intense, peppery Zin has tiny percentages of such obscure varieties as Peloursin and Negrette. 2015 Limerick Lane SyrahGrenache ($45) A Russian River Valley take on a southern Rhône red (think Châteauneuf-du-Pape), this luscious, herb-scented red should age beautifully for years. 2014 Idlewild Fox Hill Vineyard Nebbiolo ($50) Nebbiolo has an uneven track record in California at best, but this cherry-scented wine captures the marriage of grace and power that is the variety’s signature.

This Warm Spinach and Sunchoke Salad (p. 94) gets sweetness and bite from sliced apples and cheddar.

Plate and pitcher by Henry Street Studio. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O C TO B E R 2017

Warm Spinach and Sunchoke Salad page 93

3. Return the sausage to the pot. Add the mustard greens and tomatoes and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the greens are just wilted and the tomatoes start to burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pasta, crème fraîche and reserved pasta water and cook, tossing, until the pasta is hot and coated in a light sauce, about 2 minutes. Season the pasta with salt and pepper and serve right away.

Pasta with Sausage and Mustard Greens page 91

Active 25 min; Total 50 min Serves 4 to 6

Idlewild’s crisp 2016 Arneis loves the cheddar in this wilted salad with a pan vinaigrette. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. sunchokes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch pieces 15 garlic cloves, peeled Pinch of crushed red pepper Kosher salt and black pepper 1 lb. leaf or curly spinach, stemmed, large leaves torn ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 Honeycrisp apple, sliced 4 oz. clothbound cheddar, crumbled (1 cup)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil until nearly smoking. Add the sunchokes, garlic and crushed red pepper and season with salt and black pepper. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until the sunchokes are just tender. 2. Put the spinach in a large bowl. Remove the skillet from the oven and add the vinegar and remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil; immediately scrape the sunchoke mixture and any liquid over the spinach and toss until gently wilted. Add the apple and half of the cheese, season with salt and black pepper and toss to mix; transfer to a serving bowl. Top with the remaining cheese; serve.

Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

Scot Bilbro’s Marietta Old Vine Red Lot Number 66 is a bit lighter and more acidic than many other Zinfandel-based wines, so it can match the nicely bitter, creamy greens and rich sausage without overwhelming them. 12 oz. mezzi rigatoni ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

COOK THE COVER

1 lb. Bilbro Family Sausage (below) or bulk Italian sweet sausage, crumbled

Sheet-Pan Chicken with Sourdough and Bacon page 89

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 5 min Serves 6

This roast chicken on a smoky, peppery bed of potatoes, red onion and crisp, fat-basted croutons has the heft to take on Jake Bilbro’s savory, spicy 2015 Limerick Lane Syrah-Grenache.

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Kosher salt and pepper ½ lb. mustard greens, stemmed, leaves chopped 1 pint cherry tomatoes

½ lb. sourdough boule, cut or torn into 2-inch pieces

½ cup crème fraîche

½ lb. slab bacon, cut into 1-by- 1/2 -inch lardons

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain.

1 large baking potato— scrubbed, halved crosswise and cut into ¾-inch wedges

2. In the same pot, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the sausage and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl. Add the leeks, garlic and a generous pinch of salt to the pot and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are softened, about 5 minutes.

1 large red onion, cut into 1-inch wedges 2 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, diced 4 oregano sprigs ½ tsp. crushed red pepper ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and black pepper 6 whole chicken legs

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the bread, bacon, potato, onion, butter, oregano and crushed red pepper with the olive oil and season generously with salt and black pepper. Spread in an even layer. Season the chicken with salt and black pepper and arrange on the bread mixture.

Bilbro Family Sausage

Total: 30 min plus overnight steeping; Makes 2 lbs. Wine’s been the key flavoring in this vintner family’s traditional sausage recipe for generations.

In a small bowl, mix ¼ cup dry red wine and 6 thinly sliced large garlic cloves. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Strain the wine into a medium bowl; discard the garlic. Add 2 lbs. ground pork, 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, 2 tsp. black pepper, ½ tsp. ground nutmeg and ½ tsp. ground allspice and mix well. MAKE AHEAD The sausage can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

O C TO B E R 2017

2. Roast the chicken and bread mixture for about 45 minutes, until the bread is crisp and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the chicken registers 160°. Serve.

Steak and Brassicas with Red Wine Sauce Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

A rich pan sauce pulls together the steak and roasted vegetables that pair with Scot Bilbro’s firmly structured 2014 Marietta Armé Cabernet Sauvignon. 1½ lbs. multicolored brassicas, such as baby cauliflower and Romanesco, cut into 1-inch florets 4 thyme sprigs 5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 7 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, diced Two 1-lb. hanger steaks 2 small shallots, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup red wine ½ cup chicken stock

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the brassicas and thyme with ¼ cup of the olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Spread in a layer and scatter 2 tablespoons of the butter on top. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden and tender. 2. Meanwhile, in a large castiron skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Season the steaks all over with salt and pepper. Add to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat, turning often, until an instantread thermometer inserted in the thickest part of each one registers 120°, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Do not wipe out the skillet. 3. In the same skillet, cook the shallots and garlic over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost evaporated, 3 minutes. Add the stock and cook until slightly reduced, 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter until emulsified; season with salt and pepper. Carve the steaks against the grain. Serve with the brassicas and sauce. continued on p. 114 F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

I OFTEN SAY I HAVE OLD VINE RED RUNNING IN MY VEINS. REALLY, THAT’S WHERE IT STARTED FOR ALL THREE OF US.” —JAKE BILBRO

This juicy Steak and Brassicas with Red Wine Sauce (opposite) goes perfectly with Marietta Cellars’ Armé Cabernet Sauvignon.

Board and bowl from Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Co.

A CI BALANCING oil and vinegar

Time to diversify your routine. Mix things up with fresh takes on this dynamic duo, and use the yin and yang flavors to add layers of depth and finesse to your food.

Text by MICHAEL HARLAN TURKELL Recipes by LAURA REGE Photographs by CON POULOS

Oils and vinegars from around the world add complex flavors to a variety of dishes, including a crackling potato tarte, opposite.

O C TO B E R 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

ACT M

y quest to make the world’s best vinegar began by mistake: I left a bottle of wine out, uncorked. With the wine well past its drinking prime, I decided to conduct an experiment. I poured the remains into a jar, covered it with cheesecloth and waited (patience is key to great vinegar). After a few weeks of occasional stirring—which introduces oxygen and speeds the conversion of ethyl alcohol to acetic acid— I was left with a bracingly beautiful liquid. Still nuanced with many of its original aromatics, it was unlike the characterless acerbic bombs found in most supermarkets. I was hooked. Suddenly I had an unquenchable desire to make more vinegary things—from beer, from fruit juice, from honey, even from rice. My apartment was filled with fermenting jars and barrels. I started making salads with a honey vinegar I infused with tarragon. I glazed chicken Photographer and writer Michael Harlan Turkell hosts The Food Seen podcast. His latest book is Acid Trip: Travels in the World of Vinegar.

CRISPY POTATO TARTE FLAMBÉE recipe p. 102

with a honey vinegar I fermented with whiskey, lemon and cloves, giving the skin a tart, crisp bite. I recorded notes in countless journals. Then I brought those findings on the road while I researched my cookbook Acid Trip: Travels in the World of Vinegar. My journeys took me to Europe, Japan and across North America. I studied vinegar making with multigenerational producers and picked up lessons on how to cook with vinegars from brilliant chefs such as Michel Troigros and Massimo Bottura. If there was one thing I learned, it’s this: If a dish seems to be missing something, it probably needs acid. But acid is best balanced with fat—a fundamental truth that’s at the heart of the most common of pairings, oil and vinegar. In cuisines around the globe, this classic combo takes many forms, and over time I’ve come up with an ever-expanding array of favorites. Exploring the possibilities in your own kitchen can open up a world of flavors.

TURN THE PAGE FOR OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE

ESSENTIAL GUIDE

TO THE

Japan

China

Austria

Italy (Tuscany)

RICE VINEGAR & RICE BRAN OIL

BLACK VINEGAR & SESAME OIL

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR & PUMPKIN SEED OIL

RED WINE VINEGAR & HAZELNUT OIL

BALSAMIC VINEGAR & GRAPESEED OIL

Not as intense or acidic as other vinegars, Japanese rice vinegar (komezu) is used in marinades and sauces, its slight sourness providing balance in salty, umami-rich dishes. Look for unseasoned versions, which are clean and fresh and pair well with bright flavors like yuzu citrus or plum vinegar (ume-su). Rice bran oil—commonly used for frying because of its high smoke point—has a lightly toasted quality that goes well with rice vinegar’s subtlety.

Eastern Chinese cuisine features a lot of sweet-and-sour, mostly derived from Chinkiang vinegar, better known as black vinegar. Resembling soy sauce, it is made from glutinous rice and cereal grains, and is even milder in its acidity than most Japanese rice vinegars but with a deeper flavor, making it great for braises and glazes. Sesame oil, traditionally used in Chinese cooking, has a rich mouthfeel that helps give body to black vinegar.

Apple cider vinegar is ubiquitous in Austria, particularly in the southeastern region of Styria, where one of the specialties is Kürbiskernöl, a viscous dark-green pumpkin seed oil often found in local spa food. This hearty oil can stand up to the weight and brightness of apple cider vinegar, especially when they’re tossed with sautéed cabbage or Käferbohnensalat (the region’s signature scarlet runner bean salad), or drizzled on pork chops.

From ripe tomatoes to tangy sheep-milk pecorino, Tuscan food tends to have a healthy amount of acidity, which is nicely complemented by the fruity complexity of red wine vinegar. When fortified by rich hazelnut oil (the nuts are grown all over Italy), the two strengthen each other.

As defined by strict DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) codes, only two regions, Modena and Reggio Emilia, can produce Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. While it’s worth seeking out ones with the designation, there are plenty of good non-DOP balsamic vinegars available. The finest examples are thick, tart and intense, making them good companions to a lighter oil like grapeseed. Try this combo with roast meats, braised stews or luscious pan sauces.

RECIPE

Hot-and-Sour Meatball Soup, p. 114

Vinegar-Marinated Beef Yakitori, p. 115

Pork Loin Stuffed with Apples and Pumpkin Seeds, p. 115

Vinegar-Glazed Butternut Squash Pasta Salad, p. 115

Fried Zucchini Chips, p. 102

OUR FAVORITES

Iio Jozo Pure Rice Vinegar, $16; thejapanesepantry .com. Monini Rice Bran Oil, $10; monini.us.

Hegshun Chinkiang Zhenjiang 6 Year Aged Black Vinegar, $16; amazon.com. Kadoya Sesame Oil, $9; jet.com.

Carr’s Ciderhouse Cider Vinegar, $12; carrsciderhouse.com. Stony Brook Roasted Pumpkin Seed Oil, $14; wholehearted foods.com.

Volpaia Italian Red Wine Vinegar, $19; formaggiokitchen.com. Pödör Hazelnut Oil, $21; magyar marketing.com.

La Vecchia Dispensa 10 Year Balsamic Vinegar, $30; amazon .com. International Collection Grapeseed Oil, $7; jet.com.

O C TO B E R 2017

Italy (Modena/Reggio Emilia)

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

OILS & VINEGARS

every cook should own

France

Spain

USA

CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR & OLIVE OIL

SHERRY VINEGAR & SUNFLOWER OIL

HONEY VINEGAR & AVOCADO OIL

BEER VINEGAR & PEANUT OIL

BLACKBERRY VINEGAR & COCONUT OIL

Unlike Champagne wines, Champagne vinegars can be produced anywhere. Most have the clarity, crispness and almost effervescent quality you’d expect from a glass of bubbly. Examples made in the Orléans style—slowly fermented in barrels— have a more robust character. Champagne vinegar’s pungency is nicely offset by the grassiness of olive oil, so the pairing is ideal for vinaigrettes or in marinades for crisp, lightly cooked veggies.

In Jerez de la Frontera, near Spain’s southern tip, Moorish fortresses protect sherry vinegar that is aged using a special blending process that mixes younger vinegars with older ones. The resulting nutty-accented sherry vinegar is a great finishing drizzle that brightens beans, balances spicy chorizo or adds complexity to soups. The delicate sweetness of sunflower oil tempers the vinegar’s oxidized notes but allows its distinct qualities to shine.

Mead, a drink made by fermenting honey in water, can quickly turn to vinegar if you’re not careful. But that’s OK because honey vinegar is delicious. Its acute flavors benefit from the smoothness of avocado oil—which doesn’t taste like avocados, though it’s definitely buttery. This pairing works well in savory grain bowls or on its own for dunking crusty bread.

With the American craft beer industry booming, it should come as no surprise that a number of exemplary beer vinegars are popping up. In Britain, malt vinegar has long been a basic accompaniment to fish and chips, but in the US beer vinegars can be as varied as the beer itself, with subtle savory and roasty flavors. A mix of peanut oil and beer vinegar is a perfect way to wake up salty bar bites, chicken wings, chili or roasted root vegetables.

Shrub cocktails— acidulated beverages composed of fruit juice, sugar and vinegar— may be big in the mixology world, but edible shrubs, such as blackberries and raspberries, yield extraordinary vinegars. The berries’ sweet and tart flavors become more concentrated in vinegar form, which plays well with the tropical notes of unrefined coconut oil. Try this vibrant combo with roasted fruit or chilled seafood dishes like ceviche.

RECIPE

Crispy Chicken with Champagne Vinegar Aioli, p. 115

Chorizo-andFig Salad, p. 102

Persimmon-andEndive Salad, p. 102

Crispy Potato Tarte Flambée, p. 102

Berry Vinegar Tart, p. 116

OUR FAVORITES

Martin Pouret Champagne Vinegar, $17; amazon.com. Kolossos Mild Extra Virgin Olive Oil, $20; shop.kolossos.co.

Gran Capirete 50 Year Sherry Vinegar, $14; amazon.com. Oliver Farm Sunflower Oil, $6; oliverfarm.com.

Katz Late Harvest Viognier Honey Vinegar, $11; store .katzfarm.com. La Tourangelle Avocado Oil, $14; latourangelle.com.

Back Forty Beer Vinegar, $13; backfortybeer.com. Spectrum Unrefined Peanut Oil, $17; amazon.com.

Lindera Farms Blackberry Vinegar, $20; linderafarms.com. Vita Coco Coconut Oil, $8; jet.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O C TO B E R 2017

CHORIZO & FIG SALAD recipe p. 102

Luscious Spanish sherry vinegar and delicate, sweet sunflower oil are a perfect match for savory chorizo and fresh figs.

food stylist: simon andrews: style editor: suzie myers

Plate by Humble Ceramics.

O C TO B E R 2017

100

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

APPLE & PUMPKIN SEED STUFFED PORK LOIN recipe p. 115

In this quintessential fall dish, apple cider vinegar and pumpkin seed oil play starring roles, from enhancing the stuffing to the finishing drizzle.

Crispy Potato Tarte Flambée page 97 Active 35 min; Total 2 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6

This variation on the classic Alsatian flatbread includes the traditional toppings of crème fraîche, bacon and onion, but also incorporates slices of crisp potato and a vibrant drizzle of malt vinegar at the end. 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tsp. rapid-rise yeast Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. unrefined peanut oil, plus more for drizzling 6 fingerling potatoes, very thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline ½ small sweet potato, very thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline 2 Tbsp. malt vinegar, plus more for drizzling 4 thick-cut slices of bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces 4 oz. robiola cheese ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ red onion, thinly sliced

1. In a large bowl, whisk the 3 cups of flour with the yeast and 2 teaspoons of salt. Stir in 1 cup of warm water and the 2 tablespoons of peanut oil. Using your hands, knead the dough until smooth, 2 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. 2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the 2 tablespoons of vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Let stand for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Drain. 3. In a large nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat until golden and crisp, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate. 4. Set a pizza stone on the bottom of the oven; preheat the oven to 500°. Lightly flour 2 large rimless baking sheets. Divide the dough into 2 pieces. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece to a 14-inch round, 1/8 inch thick. Transfer to one of the

O C TO B E R 2017

baking sheets; keep the other piece covered with plastic wrap.

Chorizo-and-Fig Salad page 100 Active 20 min; Total 45 min Serves 4

5. In a small bowl, stir the cheese into the crème fraîche. Spread half of the mixture over the pizza round. Top with half each of the potato and onion slices. Drizzle lightly with peanut oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes. Repeat with the second piece of dough and the remaining toppings.

The nutty flavor of sherry vinegar is delicious in this ultimate fall salad, which combines crisp roasted fingerlings and chorizo with fresh, sweet figs, crunchy fennel and sharp arugula.

Fried Zucchini Chips Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 25 min Serves 4

It’s hard to stop snacking on these addictive chips, which get a sprinkle of sweet and tangy balsamic just before serving. 2 small zucchini, very thinly sliced on a mandoline Kosher salt

1 lb. fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise

6. Carefully slide 1 tarte onto the hot pizza stone and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until bubbling and golden in spots. Transfer to a large board, top with half of the bacon and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the second tarte and the remaining bacon. Cut the tartes into wedges, drizzle with malt vinegar and serve.

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 lb. Spanish chorizo, thinly sliced

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp. honey Dijon mustard ¼ cup unrefined sunflower oil ¾ lb. fresh green and purple figs, each cut into 4 wedges

WINE Full-bodied, smoky Pinot

Gris from Alsace: 2015 Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Ste. Catherine.

½ small fennel bulb—halved, cored and thinly sliced

Persimmon-and-Endive Salad with Honey Vinegar and Avocado Oil Vinaigrette

2 bunches of arugula (1/4 lb. each), tough stems discarded

page 104

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the potatoes with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 10 minutes, then flip the potatoes and add the chorizo. Continue to roast for 15 minutes longer, until the potatoes and chorizo are golden and tender. Carefully toss with 2 tablespoons of the vinegar and roast for 5 minutes longer, until the vinegar is reduced and the potatoes are crisp. Let cool slightly.

Total 15 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup honey vinegar ½ tsp. Dijon mustard ¼ cup unrefined avocado oil Kosher salt and pepper 4 heads of Belgian endive, leaves separated 2 persimmons, very thinly sliced crosswise on a mandoline 1 Hass avocado—peeled, pitted and cut into thin wedges ½ cup toasted almonds, chopped, plus more for garnish ¼ cup pomegranate seeds, plus more for garnish

In a large bowl, whisk the vinegar with the Dijon. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the avocado oil until incorporated; season with salt and pepper. Gently fold in the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with additional almonds and pomegranate seeds and serve.

Cold-pressed grapeseed oil, for frying

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons of vinegar with the mustard. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the sunflower oil and whisk until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Arrange the potatoes, chorizo, figs, fennel and arugula on plates. Drizzle the dressing over the top. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the remaining dressing.

Flaky sea salt 2 Tbsp. aged balsamic vinegar 1/3

cup packed small basil leaves

1/3

cup packed mint leaves

1. Set a colander over a large bowl. Toss the zucchini with 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and transfer to the colander. Let stand for 1 hour. Using your hands, squeeze the zucchini, a small handful at a time, to remove any remaining liquid. 2. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Heat 1/4 inch of grapeseed oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet until shimmering. Fry the garlic over moderate heat until light golden, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to the wire rack. 3. Spread the flour in a shallow bowl. Working in batches, dredge the zucchini in the flour and shake off the excess. Fry over moderate heat until golden and crisp, turning once, 1 to 2 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the zucchini to the wire rack with the garlic. Season with flaky sea salt and let cool. Drizzle the zucchini and garlic with the balsamic vinegar, transfer to a serving bowl, toss with the basil and mint and serve. WINE Citrusy sparkling wine:

NV Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut. continued on p. 114

WINE Dry, nutty amontillado

sherry: Emilio Lustau Los Arcos.

102

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

FRIED ZUCCHINI CHIPS Light but sturdy

grapeseed oil is ideal for frying these crunchy little chips, and tart balsamic vinegar gives them a zippy kick before serving. Bowls by Christiane Perrochon from TableArt.

PERSIMMON & ENDIVE SALAD recipe p. 102

Add a new dimension to your salad game by combining sweettart honey vinegar with buttery avocado oil to dress green salads or grain bowls. Salad servers by Spencer Peterman.

O C TO B E R 2017

104

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

BERRY VINEGAR TART recipe p. 116

In this irresistible and creative dessert, the not-toosweet curd gets its complex flavors from blackberry vinegar, coconut oil and fresh, juicy raspberries.

Chef Daniel Humm (left) and his partner, restaurateur Will Guidara, go all-in at Williams Candy in Coney Island, Brooklyn.

HUSTLE AND FLOW Will Guidara and Daniel Humm are the talents behind the world’s top-rated restaurant, Eleven Madison Park, and a growing empire that will soon extend to the West Coast. Jordana Rothman invites the duo to Coney Island for some seaside antics on a rare day off. Up first: corn dogs. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS NILSSON

food stylist: simon andrews

T’S CLEAR THAT I’VE WON. Now I want to invest in you.” So says restaurateur Will Guidara to his business partner, chef Daniel Humm, who’s having a hell of a time tossing darts at a wall of Technicolor balloons. Guidara has had better luck the last few rounds, and he demonstrates the proper way to hold a dart—fingers pinched, firm and sure, just behind the sharp tip. Humm fires again. No dice. And again. Nope. A carnival worker steps in and rearranges the dart in the chef’s hand. “You’ve got to shoot it like an Englishman,” he says, whatever that means. Humm adjusts his stance and we all lean in to watch. We hold our breath. We wait for the pop. In his professional life, far from the pressures of this carnival game, Humm’s aim is more reliably true. He and Guidara are golden boys of the American restaurant scene, darlings of industry awards and regulars at the top of every list a foodworld obsessive would care about. Most significantly, their fine-dining jewel, Eleven Madison Park, claimed the No. 1 spot in the 2017 World’s 50 Best Restaurants rankings (EMP’s fifth year in the top five), adding to its haul of accolades and critics’ stars. The duo is building a New York City empire that already includes a collection of rococo bars and dining rooms inside The NoMad Hotel and their first fast-casual space, Made Nice, which debuted this past spring, offering everyday interpretations of favorite Humm dishes, from a pork shoulder grain bowl to milk-and-honey soft serve. And there’s much more to come (see “On the Horizon,” p. 112). For starters, Guidara and Humm will reopen EMP this fall after extensive renovations by architect Brad Cloepfil. In addition to designing custom furnishings, Cloepfil will restore the grand Art Deco space’s elegant symmetry, while the kitchen will be refurbished with top-of-the-line equipment. This is the first significant update to the restaurant since Humm and

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Guidara purchased it from their former boss, hospitality king Danny Meyer, in 2011. And it’s a symbolic rebirth as much as a literal one. To coincide with the reopening, they are publishing Eleven Madison Park: The Next Chapter, a limited-edition, two-volume book of recipes and stories that was partly inspired by Codex Seraphinianus, Luigi Serafini’s surreal encyclopedia of an imaginary realm. Then later this fall they will step outside the New York market for the first time, when they unveil The NoMad LA. Occupying an ornate 1923 building in downtown Los Angeles, the restaurant will have the same opulence of the Manhattan original but with a lighter touch. It’s a major moment for the twosome, who, faced with the weight of extraordinary expectations, continue to raise the bar for themselves. “What we have to focus on now is bigger than the restaurants,” says Guidara. “What we want to build is a really good company, a really good place to work.” But first, there are those damn balloon darts. Humm and Guidara have agreed to take a rare day off for a visit to Coney Island, the historic amusement district on the Brooklyn waterfront. The area is about an hour subway ride from their Manhattan flagship, but it’s worlds away. In a borough known for its hip hauteur, Coney Island is a holdout of old-school authenticity—all blinking lights and rickety coasters and ramshackle boardwalk snack stands. It feels like an appropriate choice for two men who have made their names toeing the line between high and low influences, and reimagining iconic NYC foods in a fine-dining format. In fact, Humm and Guidara wrote the book on the subject—well, a book, called I Love New York, a compendium of recipes drawing on regional ingredients and riffs on classic local dishes (there’s even an extravagant hot dog with black truffles). So it seems natural to start our day at the original 1916 location of Nathan’s: a late-morning breakfast of hot dogs,

107

O C TO B E R 2017

corn dogs, onion rings, crinkle-cut fries and Cokes guzzled on the sidewalk beneath the neon sign. Afterward, we head down the block to stock up on sweets at Williams Candy. We leave with gleaming, sugar-lacquered apples and great puffs of pink and blue cotton candy, eaten by the sticky fistful as we amble toward the boardwalk. Guidara chews a candy necklace. “We’re all going to get serious tummy aches,” he says. “But that’s OK—that’s part of it.”

Humm’s take on chicken Parm (recipe p. 118). above, from top: Breakfast at Nathan’s; the chef tries his hand at darts.

O C TO B E R 2017

EER WILL PROBABLY make things worse, but we pop into Ruby’s, an old Coney Island dive, for a round anyway. Guidara says he’s keeping an eye out for Skee-Ball, the classic arcade game. Turns out he’s not just a casual player, but a champion, with his own team operating out of a friend’s bar. He’s the same way about Ping-Pong; he keeps a table in the office, and stages a tournament for employees he calls the Flatiron Open. Spend any time with Guidara and Humm, and a pattern starts to emerge. They have a way of channeling their interests to fuel ideas and ambitions. Both admire the democratic spirit of street artist Shepard Fairey, and his work helped inspire them to create Made Nice, where the food is accessible and the room is wrapped in a Fairey mural. Their shared taste for chicken Parm led to Mamma Guidara’s, the special Sunday menu of Italian-American red-sauce dishes served on checkered tablecloths at The NoMad. Maybe it’s this ability to elevate the ordinary—to bring a sense of playfulness into a white tablecloth context—that makes Humm and Guidara so compelling. It’s part of what makes them fun to hang out with. At Ruby’s we sip crisp lagers and chat with fellow day drinkers. A sun-parched blonde visiting from Atlantic City sputters her tongue when Humm tells her he’s from Switzerland. “That was the first time I’ve gotten a fart noise,” he muses. Afterward, we pop into a surf shop for bathing suits so the guys can take an impromptu dip in the Atlantic. “We have to get something we would never wear in any other situation, ever,” says Guidara, flipping through a rack of fluorescent trunks. They change into their new suits and we head to the beach. Racing across the warm sand squealing, we leap into the cold Atlantic, a sweet and guileless moment with a pair of pros who are rarely caught off guard. Back on the boardwalk, we take a spin around the Wonder Wheel. We pause at the top, 150 feet up, looking out over the park-goers and the hustlers, the faint smell of fried clams hanging in the air, the sounds of Brooklyn patois mixing with Slavic music warbling out of a tinny speaker. “This is why I love New York—it never ceases to surprise and delight,” Guidara says. “Every day has the potential to be an adventure.” As the late-afternoon sun zaps the last of the salt water from our clothes, the two begin noticing the time. They need to get back to Manhattan. On top of everything else in this moment of growth and change, they have new offices to settle into, a summer pop-up restaurant in East Hampton to oversee and an annual TED-like hospitality forum known as the Welcome Conference to cohost. But there’s still time for a last round of darts. With a little patience Humm pops a balloon. Finally. They celebrate the small victory and turn to leave, laughing. For this duo, there are bigger prizes to come.

108

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

“THIS IS WHY I LOVE NEW YORK,” SAYS GUIDARA. “IT NEVER CEASES TO SURPRISE AND DELIGHT.”

For his decadent, deep-fried franks, Humm swaps out a squirt of mustard for truffled mayo (recipe p. 110).

FROM STREET EATS TO RED-SAUCE-JOINT CLASSICS, these Daniel Humm dishes are inspired by New York City's diverse food culture—and, we’ll venture, a Coney Island state of mind. The Michelinstarred chef shares recipes for his four-star hot dogs, Italian-American garlic knots, and a genius riff on the candy shop classic chocolate-covered pretzels. Humm Dogs page 109 Total 1 hr 15 min plus overnight pickling; Serves 8

What’s a trip to Coney Island without a hot dog? This version, however, isn’t quite what you’d expect from a stand on the corner. Humm’s decadent and addictively delicious take on the classic is all-beef, deepfried and bacon-wrapped, piled into a bun with truffle mayo, Gruyère cheese, and a bright and crunchy relish made with mustard seeds, celery and celery root. RELISH

½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1½ Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds ½ cup finely diced peeled celery root ¼ cup finely diced celery ¼ cup finely diced half-sour pickle TRUFFLE MAYONNAISE

1 large egg yolk 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ cup canola oil 1 Tbsp. minced fresh black truffle or 1½ tsp. white truffle oil HOT DOGS

8 all-beef hot dogs 8 thin slices of bacon Canola oil, for frying 8 split-top hot dog buns 8 slices of Gruyère, halved Inner celery leaves, for garnish

1. Make the relish In a small saucepan, combine ½ cup of the vinegar with the sugar, 1/4 cup of water and the 1 1/2 tablespoons of salt and bring to a boil, stirring to O C TO B E R 2017

dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the mustard seeds and let cool completely. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain before using.

Baked Clams with Bacon and Garlic Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 15 min Makes 24

In this ultimate version of baked clams, Humm adds chopped clams to the filling, doubling down on the briny flavor. Bacon, parsley, lemon and a touch of Parmigiano-Reggiano bump up the amazing flavors even more.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the celery root, celery and halfsour pickle with 3 tablespoons of the drained mustard seeds and the remaining 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Season the relish with salt. Save the remaining mustard seeds for another use.

CLAMS

3. Make the mayonnaise In a mini food processor, puree the egg yolk with the lemon juice, mustard and salt until smooth. With the machine on, very gradually add the canola oil until emulsified and the mayonnaise is thick. Scrape into a small bowl and stir in the truffle.

1 cup dry white wine 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 shallot, thinly sliced 2 thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf 24 littleneck clams, scrubbed

4. Make the hot dogs Preheat the oven to 350°. Pat the hot dogs and bacon dry with paper towels. Wrap each dog with a slice of bacon in a spiral; secure the bacon with toothpicks.

FILLING

2 thin slices of bacon (1 oz.), finely chopped 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves, minced

5. In a large saucepan, heat 3 inches of canola oil to 350°. Fry the hot dogs over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned and the bacon is crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Discard the toothpicks. 6. Arrange the buns cut side up on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread the inside of each bun with some of the truffle mayonnaise and fill with a hot dog and a slice of Gruyère. Bake for about 5 minutes, until the cheese is melted. Top with some of the relish and garnish with celery leaves. Serve right away.

1 medium shallot, very finely chopped ½ cup dry white wine ½ cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth 2 shucked surf clams, mantles discarded and clams finely chopped, or 4 oz. shucked littleneck clams, finely chopped ½ cup fresh brioche breadcrumbs 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¾ tsp. kosher salt TOPPING

¼ cup fresh brioche breadcrumbs

MAKE AHEAD The celery

1 Tbsp. very finely chopped parsley

relish and the truffle mayonnaise can be refrigerated separately overnight.

1. Prepare the clams In a large saucepan, combine the wine, garlic, shallot, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams, cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a large baking sheet; discard the cooking liquid. Let the clams cool slightly, then split the shells in half and transfer the clam meat to a small bowl. Clean 24 of the shell halves and arrange on the baking sheet; discard the remaining shells. 2. Make the filling In a large skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and just crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the butter, garlic and shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and cook until reduced to a thin glaze, about 4 minutes. Stir in the shucked clams, breadcrumbs, lemon juice and salt. Let cool slightly. 3. Make the topping In a medium bowl, mix the breadcrumbs with the parsley, lemon zest and cheese. Season lightly with salt. 4. Preheat the oven to 350°. Put 1 clam in each half shell. Top the clams with the filling and the topping. Bake for about 15 minutes, until bubbling and the tops are golden. Serve with lemon wedges. WINE Savory, full-bodied

white: 2014 Stolpman Vineyards L’Avion Roussanne.

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

WINE Juicy sparkling rosé:

1 Tbsp. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

NV Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir Brut Rosé.

Kosher salt Lemon wedges, for serving

110

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

AN ABILITY TO ELEVATE THE ORDINARY IS WHAT MAKES HUMM AND GUIDARA SO COMPELLING.

ON THE HORIZON Will Guidara and Daniel Humm were already two of the busiest men in food, and this fall they’re ramping up further. The release of their limited-edition cookbook Eleven Madison Park: The Next Chapter kicks off an action-packed few months. Here, a look at what’s in store this season and beyond. ELEVEN MADISON PARK

Guidara and Humm tapped Brad Cloepfil, head of Allied Works Architecture and a regular at EMP, to oversee a down-to-the-studs renovation of their flagship. The restaurant will reopen this fall with refreshed decor and an upgraded kitchen, where Humm will cook on a custom Molteni stove.

THE NOMAD LAS VEGAS

THE NOMAD LA Humm will serve a few favorites from the Manhattan original—including the luxe seafood plateau—at this West Coast location. The duo’s first project outside New York will also feature poolside service on the roof.

Another outpost of the New York hotel and restaurant is planned for Sin City in 2018. The project will occupy 20 floors above the Park MGM. FINANCIAL DISTRICT RESTAURANT Details

425 PARK AVENUE RESTAURANT Guidara and

Humm are projecting a 2019 opening for their as-yetunnamed, über-upscale restaurant inside this Norman Foster–designed office tower.

are still sparse on Humm and Guidara’s forthcoming downtown Manhattan project, but they’re planning a more casual experience for the massive space, expected to debut sometime in 2018.

Guidara (left) toasts to good vibes on the beach in front of the Wonder Wheel.

O C TO B E R 2017

112

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Chocolate Pretzels with Sea Salt Active 1 hr 10 min; Total 2 hr Makes 36

In Hummâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clever (and glutenfree!) version of this saltysweet snack, ground pretzels and white chocolate get piped into a pretzel shape and chilled before being dipped in dark chocolate. 12 oz. gluten-free salted pretzels, such as Glutino 1 lb. white chocolate, finely chopped 12 oz. dark chocolate (72% cacao) Flaky sea salt, for garnish

1. In a food processor, pulse the pretzels into a fine powder. Sift through a medium sieve into a bowl. 2. In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt the white chocolate at high power in 20-second increments, stirring after each, until smooth. Stir in the pretzel powder until evenly moistened. Let cool slightly, then scrape into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/3-inch round tip. 3. Line 3 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a 3-inch round cutter and a permanent marker, trace 12 circles onto each sheet of parchment.

Flip the paper so the ink is on the bottom. Using the circles as a guide, pipe pretzels onto the parchment. Refrigerate until set, about 30 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, in another microwave-safe bowl, melt the dark chocolate at high power in 20-second increments, stirring after each, until smooth. Let cool slightly. 5. Using 2 forks or tweezers and working with 1 pretzel at a time, coat the chilled pretzels in the melted dark chocolate and

return to the baking sheet; immediately garnish with flaky sea salt. Let stand at room temperature until the dark chocolate is set, about 20 minutes. Serve. MAKE AHEAD The pretzels can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week. continued on p. 116

from p. 94

from p. 102

Sour Cherry–Glazed Ribs Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

Both the sweet-and-sour cherry barbecue sauce and the pure porky flavor here are excellent matches for Jake Bilbro’s powerful, darkly fruity, old-vine 2015 Limerick Lane Russian River Estate Zinfandel.

Crispy Salmon and Wilted Chard page 91 Total 30 min; Serves 4

The 2016 Flower, Flora & Fauna Rosé from Sam Bilbro’s Idlewild winery is more substantial than light-pink Provençal versions, but you need that with this rich salmon and tarragon-vinaigrette-infused chard. 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar

Two 2-lb. racks baby back ribs, membrane removed from the underside of each rack Kosher salt and pepper

Hot-and-Sour Meatball Soup Total 40 min; Serves 4

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 3 small shallots, minced 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 lb. pitted sour cherries

¾ oz. dried wood ear mushrooms Three 1-inch pieces peeled ginger, 2 pieces cut into thin matchsticks

¼ cup sugar

2 scallions, chopped, plus thinly sliced scallions for garnish

4½ Tbsp. red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove

1 Tbsp. Sriracha

½ lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 cup cherry juice

½ lb. fatty ground pork

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

½ cup chicken stock

6 Tbsp. black vinegar

1 tsp. honey

1. Preheat the oven to 275°. Set a rack on a rimmed baking sheet. Season the ribs with salt and pepper and set meat side up on the rack. Bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes.

6 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

2 Tbsp. finely chopped tarragon, plus leaves for garnish

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. rainbow Swiss chard, stems cut into 2-inch lengths and leaves coarsely torn 1 large shallot, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced Four 5- to 6-oz. salmon fillets

1. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with the chopped tarragon, mustard, honey and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper. 2. In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the chard stems, shallot and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the stems are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chard leaves in large handfuls and cook until just wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in half of the vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. 3. Meanwhile, season the salmon with salt and pepper. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering. Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat, pressing gently with a spatula to flatten, until the skin is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Flip the salmon and cook until medium within, about 3 minutes. Transfer the salmon and wilted chard to plates. Garnish with tarragon leaves and serve, passing the remaining vinaigrette at the table.

O C TO B E R 2017

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and half of the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cherries, sugar and 2½ tablespoons of the vinegar and cook until the cherries burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a blender and let cool slightly, then puree until smooth. Return to the saucepan and cook over moderately high heat, stirring often, until reduced to 1½ cups, about 7 minutes. Let the barbecue sauce cool, then stir in the Sriracha and season with salt and pepper. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk the cherry juice with the stock and the remaining garlic and 2 tablespoons of vinegar. Stack four 18-inch-long sheets of heavy-duty foil in 2 piles on a work surface. Set 1 rack of ribs meat side down in the center of each. Fold up the foil to form 4 sides and pour half of the juice mixture on each rack. Wrap the ribs tightly in the foil, then transfer the packets to the rack and bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes, until the ribs are very tender. Remove from the oven and open the packets. Let stand for 5 minutes, then discard the cooking liquid and foil. Return the ribs to the rack meat side up. 4. Increase the oven temperature to 450°. Brush the ribs liberally with the barbecue sauce and bake, turning and brushing occasionally with the sauce, for 10 to 12 minutes, until nicely glazed. Let rest for 5 minutes, then cut in between the bones and serve.

114

Kosher salt and white pepper

1 large egg, beaten with a pinch of salt ½ lb. firm tofu, cut into ½-inch pieces One 8-oz. can sliced bamboo shoots, drained 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

1. In a small heatproof bowl, cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain. 2. Meanwhile, in a food processor, pulse the uncut piece of ginger with the chopped scallions and garlic. Add the shrimp and pulse to chop. Scrape the mixture into a bowl; fold in the pork, 1 tablespoon of the black vinegar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Roll into twenty 1-inch balls; transfer to a baking sheet. 3. In a large pot, bring the stock and half of the ginger matchsticks to a simmer over moderately high heat. Using a circular motion, pour the beaten egg into the broth. Wait 5 seconds, then stir the broth to distribute the egg throughout. Add the meatballs, drained mushrooms, tofu and bamboo shoots and simmer over moderate heat until the meatballs are just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the vinegar, the sesame oil and a pinch of pepper. Season with salt. 4. In a small bowl, stir the remaining ginger matchsticks into the remaining 2 tablespoons of black vinegar. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with sliced scallions and serve hot with the ginger-vinegar mixture.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1 cup finely chopped onion

5. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and set the apples on a platter. Scrape the pan drippings into a small bowl. Let the pork rest for 15 minutes, then discard the strings. Thickly slice the pork and transfer to the platter. Drizzle with the pan drippings and pumpkin seed oil and serve.

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

WINE Dry, full-bodied Riesling from Alsace:

Pork Loin Stuffed with Apples and Pumpkin Seeds page 101 Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr; Serves 8 to 10 ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Fuji apples—peeled, cored and cut into 1/4 -inch dice ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 4 oz. rye bread, cut into 1/4 -inch cubes and toasted ¼ cup pumpkin seeds, lightly toasted 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley Kosher salt and pepper One 3½-lb. pork loin—skin removed and reserved, meat butterflied ½ inch thick (have your butcher do this) 8 Lady apples, halved crosswise and seeded Unrefined pumpkin seed oil, for drizzling

1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until soft and light golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in the diced apples and ¼ cup of the apple cider vinegar and boil over moderately high heat until the liquid is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the toasted bread cubes along with the pumpkin seeds and parsley. Season the stuffing with salt and pepper. 2. Using a sharp knife, score the pork skin at ¼-inch intervals. Lay the pork loin butterflied side up on a work surface and season with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing over the pork loin, then roll up the meat, leaving the seam on top. Drape the pork skin over the seam. Using kitchen twine, tightly tie the loin at 1-inch intervals. Season with salt and pepper, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. 3. Preheat the oven to 475°. In a large bowl, toss the Lady apples with the remaining 2 tablespoons each of cider vinegar and olive oil. 4. Unwrap the pork and transfer skin side up to a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes, until the skin is browned and bubbly. Reduce the oven temperature to 325° and roast for 25 minutes more. Scatter the Lady apples around the pork and scrape any liquid from the bowl over them. Continue to roast the pork for about 20 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 140°. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1½ lbs. boneless short ribs—sliced ½ inch thick, then cut into 2-inch pieces (have your butcher do this) 10 scallions, white and light green parts sliced crosswise into thirds ¾ lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed 20 bamboo skewers, soaked in water Rice bran oil, for brushing

2015 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht.

Kosher salt and pepper

Vinegar-Glazed Butternut Squash Pasta Salad Active 20 min; Total 50 min Serves 4 One 2-lb. butternut squash—peeled, seeded and cut into 3/4 -inch pieces (6 cups) ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. honey Kosher salt and pepper ¾ lb. whole-wheat fusilli ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. unrefined hazelnut oil 1 head of Treviso or ½ a small head of radicchio, thinly sliced ½ cup packed parsley leaves Shaved Pecorino Tuscano or Romano, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash with ¼ cup of the vinegar, the olive oil and honey and spread evenly on the baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 35 minutes, tossing halfway through, until browned and glazed.

Togarashi, for serving

1. In a large bowl, whisk the mirin, vinegar, sake, brown sugar and soy sauce. Toss in the short ribs along with the scallions and mushrooms. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. 2. Alternately thread the beef and scallions onto half of the skewers. Thread the mushrooms on the remaining skewers. Brush with rice bran oil. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Preheat a grill pan. Grill the beef and mushroom skewers over moderately high heat until the meat is medium-rare and the mushrooms are tender, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the skewers to a platter, sprinkle with togarashi and serve. WINE Aromatic French red: 2015 Michel

Gahier Le Clousot Arbois Trousseau.

Crispy Chicken with Champagne Vinegar Aioli Active 30 min; Serves 4 3 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 large egg yolk, plus 1 large egg 1 small garlic clove, finely grated Pinch of cayenne

2. Meanwhile, in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain. Toss with 3 tablespoons of the hazelnut oil.

2/3

3. In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons each of vinegar and hazelnut oil. Stir in the squash, Treviso and parsley, then fold in the pasta. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature with shaved pecorino.

¼ cup all-purpose flour

WINE California rosé: 2016 Grgich Hills.

Vinegar-Marinated Beef Yakitori Active 20 min; Total 40 min Serves 4 ½ cup mirin ½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar ¼ cup sake or sherry 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. soy sauce

115

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for frying Kosher salt and pepper

2 cups panko 1½ lbs. chicken tenders, patted dry Crispy sweet potato fries, for serving

1. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, egg yolk, garlic and cayenne. Slowly whisk in the 2/3 cup of olive oil until incorporated. Season with salt. 2. Spread the flour in a shallow bowl. In a second shallow bowl, whisk the whole egg with 1/3 cup of the aioli. In a third shallow bowl, spread the panko. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour and shake off the excess. Dip the chicken in the egg mixture, then dredge in the panko, pressing to help it adhere. continued on p. 116

O C TO B E R 2017

BALANCING ACT from p. 115 crispy chicken

from p. 113

continued

GARLIC BUTTER

3. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. In a large, deep skillet, heat ¼ inch of olive oil until shimmering. In batches, fry the chicken over moderately high heat, turning once, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the rack and season with salt. Serve with the aioli and fries.

5½ sticks unsalted butter 2/3

1½ cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. pepper

WINE Bright, unoaked California Chardon-

nay: 2015 Chamisal Vineyards Stainless.

TOPPING

Spiced Candied Almonds Berry Vinegar Tart page 105 Active 30 min; Total 3 hr; Serves 8 12 whole graham crackers 1¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. sugar Kosher salt 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 8 large egg yolks ½ cup blackberry vinegar 2 Tbsp. cornstarch 6 oz. raspberries (1¾ cups), plus more for garnish 1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil ¾ cup heavy cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a food processor, pulse the graham crackers with 1/4 cup of the sugar and ¼ teaspoon of salt until fine crumbs form. Add the butter and pulse until incorporated. Press the crumbs evenly over the bottom and up the sides of a 13-by-4-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Bake the crust for about 12 minutes, until fragrant and browned. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely. 2. Set a fine sieve over a medium bowl. In a medium saucepan, whisk the egg yolks with 1 cup of the sugar until well blended. Whisk in the vinegar, cornstarch and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook over moderate heat, whisking, until the mixture just starts to bubble, about 5 minutes. Add the raspberries and return to a simmer. Simmer over moderate heat, whisking, until the berries are broken down and the filling is very thick, about 5 minutes longer. 3. Remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk in the coconut oil. Strain the custard through the fine sieve, pressing on the solids; there should be just over 1 cup of custard. Pour the custard into the crust, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours. 4. Transfer the tart to a platter. In a large bowl, whisk the cream with the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar until medium peaks form. Dollop the whipped cream on top of the tart, garnish with berries and serve.

O C TO B E R 2017

cup finely chopped garlic (from 2 large heads)

Active 25 min; Total 45 min plus cooling Makes 2 cups

Inspired by the candied nuts sold at carts throughout New York City, these not-too-sweet toasted almonds have a great crackly shell. 2 cups raw almonds ¼ cup light corn syrup 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. sweet pimentón de la Vera ½ tsp. piment d’Espelette

1. Preheat the oven to 325° and line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly coat a large bowl and 2 large spoons with nonstick spray. Spread the almonds on the baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, until golden. Transfer to the prepared bowl. Leave the oven on. 2. In a small saucepan, combine the corn syrup with the salt, pimentón de la Vera, piment d’Espelette and 1 tablespoon of water. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until hot and thin, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately drizzle the hot syrup over the almonds and, using the greased spoons, toss to coat. 3. Spread the almonds on the parchment paper–lined baking sheet; bake for 10 minutes, until coated in a sticky glaze; stir the almonds twice during baking. Return the nuts to the greased bowl and let cool, stirring occasionally to separate them.

Garlic Bread Rolls Active 2 hr 15 min; Total 3 hr 15 min plus overnight chilling; Makes 24 ROLLS

1 cup whole milk, at room temperature 1 large egg, beaten 1 envelope active dry yeast 4 cups plus 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. sugar 9 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and softened

116

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 tsp. kosher salt 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1. Prepare the rolls In the clean bowl of a stand mixer, combine the milk, egg and yeast and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Attach the dough hook and beat at low speed until combined. Add the flour, salt and sugar and beat at medium speed until combined, about 2 minutes. With the mixer on medium speed, gradually add the butter and mix until the dough is smooth. Transfer to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap and flatten with your palms. Refrigerate the dough overnight. 2. Meanwhile, make the garlic butter In a medium saucepan, melt 1½ sticks of butter over moderately low heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and lightly browned, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and let cool slightly, then puree until smooth. Let cool. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the remaining 4 sticks of butter with the cheese, salt and pepper until smooth. With the mixer on low, gradually add the cooled garlic butter and beat until smooth. Scrape the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch round tip. 4. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 9-by-12-inch rectangle. Using a large knife, cut the dough into three 4-by-9-inch strips. Arrange 1 strip of dough so that the long side is facing you. Pipe a strip of the garlic butter lengthwise onto the top half, then fold the top edge over the butter to the center, pressing to seal. Pipe another strip of the garlic butter along the seam. Fold the bottom edge of the dough over the butter, pinching to seal. Cut the stuffed dough into 8 pieces and arrange seam side down and 1/2 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining 2 strips of dough and the garlic butter to form a total of 24 garlic bread rolls. Cover loosely with a large sheet continued on p. 118

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

PROMOTION

fresh ﬁnds NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS AND MORE FROM FOOD & WINE’S PUBLISHER

HUSTLE AND FLOW from p. 116 garlic bread rolls

continued

of greased plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours. Reserve the remaining garlic butter. 5. Meanwhile, make the topping In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the flour with the cheese and salt until mixed. With the machine on low, gradually beat in the butter until evenly moistened and crumbly. 6. Preheat the oven to 375°. In a small saucepan, melt the reserved garlic butter over low heat. Brush the rolls with the melted garlic butter and sprinkle with the topping. Bake for about 40 minutes, until golden and puffed. Serve warm.

Chicken Parmesan page 108 Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 4 hr 45 min Serves 6 TOMATO SAUCE

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt Two 28-oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand 2 basil sprigs 2 thyme sprigs 1 small bay leaf BÉCHAMEL

1 ¼ cups whole milk 2 garlic cloves 2 thyme sprigs 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter ¼ cup all-purpose flour Kosher salt CHICKEN

1 cup all-purpose flour

Let Taste Be Your Guide

¼ cup cornstarch

If you want to cut to the spirit of a city, talk to a chef. The S.Pellegrino® Taste Guide showcases destinations through the minds and bellies of the chefs that help shape their city’s culture. Find your guide to good taste at

2 Tbsp. garlic powder

sanpellegrino.com

1½ Tbsp. dried oregano 1½ tsp. cayenne

Torn basil and small leaves, for garnish

1. Make the sauce In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes, basil, thyme and bay leaf and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced by half, about 3 hours. Discard the herb sprigs and bay leaf and pass the tomato sauce through a food mill into a heatproof bowl. Season the sauce with salt. 2. Meanwhile, make the béchamel In a small saucepan, combine the milk, garlic and thyme and bring just to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 minutes, then discard the garlic and thyme sprigs. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the flour and cook over moderate heat until a thick paste forms, 3 to 5 minutes. Very gradually whisk in the warm milk until smooth. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring, until thick and no floury taste remains, 5 to 7 minutes. Season the béchamel with salt. 3. Make the chicken In a large baking dish, whisk the flour with the cornstarch, garlic powder, oregano, cayenne and 1½ teaspoons each of salt and pepper. In another large baking dish, beat the eggs. Spread the breadcrumbs in a third large baking dish. Season the chicken breasts all over with salt and pepper. Coat the chicken in the flour mixture, then dip in the beaten egg and dredge in the breadcrumbs, pressing to help them adhere. Transfer to a large baking sheet. 4. Preheat the oven to 425°. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large saucepan, heat 3 inches of oil to 350°. Add 1 chicken breast to the saucepan and fry over moderately high heat, turning once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 155°, about 7 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining chicken breast.

2 skin-on whole chicken breasts (about 2 lbs. each)—bones cut off and discarded, breasts pounded to ½-inch thickness

5. Spread the béchamel over the chicken. Top each breast with 1 cup of the tomato sauce, ¾ cup of the shredded mozzarella and ¼ cup of the Parmigiano (reserve the remaining tomato sauce for another use). Bake for 5 minutes, until the cheese is melted. Transfer to a platter, garnish with basil and serve.

Canola oil, for frying

WINE Robust, spicy Italian red: 2012 Villa

1½ cups shredded mozzarella (6 oz.)

Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva.

Kosher salt and pepper 6 large eggs 2 cups plain dry breadcrumbs

VISIT US ONLINE AT foodandwine.com/promo/events for exciting sweepstakes, promotions and events. Follow us @foodandwine.

½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

118

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

MOST WANTED from p. 120

Clams Carbonara

Shopping A LA CARTE

Total 40 min; Serves 6 2 lbs. razor or littleneck clams, scrubbed Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. spaghetti 1 large egg, plus 4 large egg yolks ¾ cup freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese, plus more for serving Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 8 oz. pancetta, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ cup finely chopped parsley leaves 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter

homegrown : cooking from my new england roots

by matt jennings (artisan books).

1. In a large pot, bring ½ inch of water to a boil. Add the clams, cover and steam over moderately high heat until just opened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a rimmed baking sheet; discard any that don’t open. 2. Strain the cooking liquid through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a large bowl. Wipe out the pot and return the cooking liquid to it. Add enough water to the pot until three-fourths full and bring to a boil. Generously salt the water, add the spaghetti and cook until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. 3. Meanwhile, remove the clams from their shells; discard the shells. Thickly slice the clams. In a small bowl, whisk the egg with the egg yolks, the 3/4 cup of cheese and the nutmeg. 4. Heat a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and most of the fat is rendered, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate; leave the fat in the skillet.

A TASTING ROOM

The Freshest Extra Virgin Olive Oils From Around The World and Aged Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Italy

Use Code VINEGAR for 10% Off

www.FIOREoliveoils.com

5. Add the onion and garlic to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the pancetta, clams and spaghetti and stir to coat, about 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat and slowly drizzle in the egg mixture, tossing, until incorporated. Add the reserved pasta water, the chopped parsley and butter and toss to coat; season with salt and pepper. Divide the pasta into bowls and serve, passing more cheese at the table. WINE White: floral, lightly honeyed 2015

Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano. Red: fresh, juicy 2015 Massolino Barbera d’Alba.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

www.foodandwine.com/shopnow

TO ADVERTISE CALL JENNY AT MI INTEGRATED MEDIA 860-542-5180

RECIPE REQUEST

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

It’s a month with the letter “R.” Eat shellfish! For more marine food, go to foodandwine.com /seafood.

Carbonara Meets Vongole MATT JENNINGS, THE chef behind Townsman in Boston, has some advice for owners of his new book, Homegrown: Cooking from My New England Roots. “Let it get sticky!” he says. Indeed, spills and stains are to be expected on this lushly photographed compendium of his New England(-ish) food, its pages shot through with clever ideas absorbed during his culinary coming-of-age by way of Italy and California. For his northeastern riff on carbonara, for instance, Jennings dreamed up a Yankee variation of the creamy Roman classic, O C TO B E R 2017

tossing in local razor clams (p. 119). Embracing another lesson learned—squeeze every drop of flavor from ingredients—he repurposes the liquid used for steaming the clams to cook the spaghetti, amplifying the briny flavor. With his pasta, Jennings pairs two Italian wines. “I like to stay regionally inspired,” explains the chef, who liberally suggests both a white and a red. “I’m of the strong opinion that you should drink whatever wine you want.” 120 Kingston St.; townsmanboston.com. —JANE SIGAL 120

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: john kernick; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. large bowl by malinda reich; small bowl by humble ceramics

MOST WANTED

Introducing the New King of the Concrete Jungle. The all-new Tiguan. Here we see the all-new Volkswagen Tiguan in its natural habitat. The completely redesigned exterior, bold lines, and aggressive stance are a double take waiting to happen. Inside, the Tiguan is a different kind of majestic. With available premium leather seating surfaces and Volkswagen Digital Cockpit that makes navigating so instinctive, you can get lost without ever getting lost. And available 4MOTION® all-wheel drive means you can conquer almost any road, concrete or otherwise. Dramatization. Do not attempt. Always wear proper seat restraints in a moving safari vehicle. Optional accessories shown. Always ensure that your vehicle is equipped with appropriate tires and equipment and always adjust your speed and driving style to the road, terrain, traffic, and weather conditions. See Owner’s Manual for further details and important limitations. *MY2018 Tiguan 6 years/72,000 miles (whichever occurs first) New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Based on manufacturers’ published data on transferable Bumper-to-bumper/Basic warranty only. Not based on other separate warranties. See owner’s literature or dealer for warranty limitations. ©2017 Volkswagen of America, Inc.

WE DIDN’T INVENT AGING GR ACEFULLY Introducing Patrón Extra Añejo, our latest ultra-premium aged tequila. Aged more than three years in oak barrels, this extra añejo features distinct notes of dried fruits, banana, honey, and vanilla. It’s a smooth yet complex taste that’s best enjoyed over time. We didn’t invent aging gracefully,

WE JUST PERFECTED IT.

Introducing Patrón Extra Añejo, our latest ultra-premium aged tequila.

The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 40% abv.