Dries van noten tentoonstelling

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1. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2006, © Mathieu Ridelle

DRIES VAN NOTEN INSPIRATIONS

March 1st to August 31st 2014

PRESS CONTACTS

Marie-Laure MOREAU Isabelle MENDOZA Barneys New York, US-based luxury retailer, will serve as a sponsor for the exhibition along with Bonaveri

PHONE. : +33 01 44 55 58 78 FAX : +33 01 44 55 57 93 presse@lesartsdecoratifs.fr www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN

From March 1st to August 31st 2014, the work of the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten, is featured at the musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This is the very first exhibition devoted to the artist’s work. As Dries Van Noten takes us on an intimate journey into his artistic universe, he reveals the singularity of his creative process which he illustrates with his various and numerous sources of inspiration. This event is an eye opening experience, where Dries Van Noten’s men’s and women’s collections are put together with iconic pieces from the museum’s fashion and textile collection. The show also includes photographs and videos, film clips, musical references, as well as artworks by renowned artists, from public and private collections, that have triggered the designer’s imagination throughout his life and career.

Initiated into the world of textiles by his parents who were both cloth retailers, Dries Van Noten studied fashion design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where he gratuated in 1981. In 1986, while he was supported by Christine Mathys

and

Patrick

created

his

own

Vangheluwe,

independent

he

brand

and showed his first men’s collection in London the same year with the informal group of young avant-garde Belgian designers known as the ‘Antwerp Six’, that included Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee. Dries

Van

aesthetic

Noten

developped

vocabulary

by

his

combining

fashion design with visual arts from different to

periods,

foreign

memories

and

cultures of

by

as

intimate

referring

well

as

to

experiences.

2. Dries Van Noten, 50th show, Spring/Summer 2005 © Marleen Daniels

Dries Van Noten’s collections reflect his fantasies and dreams of exotic places stemming from his imagination, while also drawing upon the ethnic and folk traditions of India, China, Africa and Mexico. These ideas contribute to his choices of refined weaves and fabrics that constitute the printed patterns used in his productions of the 2010 Women’s Spring-Summer Collection and the 2014 Spring-Summer Collection.

His works are also directly influenced by masterpieces from the field of art history.

Women’s

In

effect,

the

entire

Autumn-Winter

2009

collection

stems from paintings by Francis Bacon, whereas

the

Men’s

Spring-Summer

Collection of that same year is based on a single picture by Elizabeth Peyton, Democrats are More Beautiful (2001).

Dries Van Noten’s creative references can also be subtle and therefore more intimate and suggestive.

3. ‘Bar’ suit, silk taffetas, Christian Dior, 1947 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs, © Jean Tholance

4. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2009 © Rights reserved

press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN

5. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2008 © Rights reserved

6. Long silk dress, Callot Sœurs, circa 1927 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs, © Jean Tholance

In effect, a colour in particular may

Pol Bury in the Palais Royal provided the

inspire him, as well as emotions and

backdrop for the 2009 Women’s Spring-

atmospheres

:

power

Summer show, and the 50th show in

of

used

Rothko’s

September 2004 was staged around a

painting, the particularity of the blue

gigantic banquet. For this exhibition,

light reflected in a grotto in Capri, or

Dries Van Noten has brought together

the

butterfly,

elements which point to other sources

can be relevant starting points for a

of inspiration, such as the Renaissance

the

red

fragility

the

chromatic in

evoked

Mark

by

a

collection. In other words, Dries Van

‘chambers

Noten’s sources of inspiration transcend

cabinets’ in which collectors amassed

the hierarchy of the arts, as vernacular

memorabilia and souvenirs. Each piece

culture

in

is exposed with various items that seem

influences. His designs rest upon these

hard to grasp at first sight but become

contrasts, as duality is another constant

progressively legible as a reflection of his

hallmark of his stylistic vocabulary. He

creative process. His choice to organize

often uses what defines the differences

his work in a particular way, results

between genders to tackle the limits of

from a skilful montage in the museum

dress codes : men’s garments are made

space. By associating the pieces with

with fabrics regarded as feminine such

shared similarities, he illustrates the

as lace, while masculine cuts are used in

main themes and characteristics of his

the women’s collections. The refinement

production from the early 1980s.

that the couturier brings to each of his

The exhibition brings together all the

works culminates in his fashion shows,

artistic fields with an assemblage of

several of which have been among the

historical, pictorial, ethnic, cinematic,

most

musical

is

for

him

memorable

in

just

as

recent

rich

decades.

of

and

wonder’

or

geographic

stressing

references.

Dries Van Noten chooses uncommon

While

locations but ones always related to

analogies

the theme of the collection, such as

Dries

Passage Brady in the Indian quarter

combines fashion design with the world

of Paris’ 10th arrondissement, for the

of decorative and fine arts, in order to

1994 Men’s Spring-Summer Collection.

illustrate the Belgian creator’s distinctive

More recently, in 2008, the fountain by

techniques and stylistic vocabulary.

Van

and

the

‘curiosity

the

Noten’s

influences,

the

contradictions work,

the

in

show

7. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2014 © Tommy Tom

press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN

Dries

Van

anonymous

Noten 19

th

has

century

selected

pieces

and

works by emblematic couturiers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior and 1980s designers, to evoke intimate subject matters such as youth, the archetype, while

ambiguity

highlighting

and his

passion, ‘signature’

themes. Thanks to exceptional loans, masterpieces by important artists such as Bronzino, Kees Van Dongen, Yves Klein, Victor Vasarely, Francis Bacon, Elizabeth Peyton and Damien Hirst are on display in each section of the show.

Major films, including Stanley Kubrick’s Clockwork Orange and Jane Campion’s The Piano, are also part of the event.

The exhibition is the result of Dries Van Noten’s close collaboration with the Arts Décoratifs Museum, which has prompted him to use several 19 th century textile patterns in his 2014 men’s and

8. Detail of a dress, Cortina, circa 1966 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance

9. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2009 © Patrice Stable

women’s Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collections that he unveiled in Paris in June and September 2013.

10. Embroidered leather jacket, Yves Saint Laurent, 1980-1981 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance

11. Textile detail, embroidered satin, circa 1889 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance

12. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2014 © Tommy Tom

13. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2006 © Olaf Wipperfurth

renseignements key information pratiques

Curator : > Pamela Golbin, general curator of Contemporary Fashion and Textiles, Les Arts Décoratifs Exhibition design : > Jean-Dominique SECONDI, ARTER

les arts décoratifs

Bruno ROGER, Chairman Marie-Liesse Baudrez, General director Olivier GABET, Museums director Pascale de SEzE, Communication director the museums

The Arts Décoratifs museums 107 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris > phone +33 01 44 55 57 50 Metro stations : Palais-Royal, Pyramides, Tuileries Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 6pm (Late opening Thursday until 9pm : Temporary exhibitions and jewellery gallery only) admission > full rate : 9 € > reduced rate : 7.50 €

Publication : > Dries Van Noten French edition : Les Arts Décoratifs ; English and Dutch editions : LANNOO 320 pages, 600 illustrations, 59 €

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