Where To...2012 esub by Ulster Publishing

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley

Explore HudsonWhere Valley to Guide APRIL 12, 2012

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ULSTER PUBLISHING ● WWW.EXPLOREHUDSONVALLEY.COM

See the valley with new eyes Whether you’re a native or a newcomer, there’s always something to be discovered in the place we call home

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12, 2012 2 | April Explore Hudson Valley

Woodstock area

Woodstock Olive Shandaken

Top row: Ashokan Reservoir, vintage train in Shandaken, the Karmapa at KTD Monastery; bottom row: Overlook Hotel ruins on Overlook Mountain, Bearsville Theatre, a show at Woodstock Playhouse; (photos by Dion Ogust, Alan Carey and Andrea Barrist Stern)

Woodstock Overlook Trail and KTD Monastery The legend has it that if you spend three nights (or one night — legends tend to conflict) in the

shadow of Overlook Mountain, you will always return to Woodstock (or, in an alternate version, you will never leave.) However it is, those who have stayed, or left and come back, may swear by it, and all can tell you of their experience climbing Overlook. Actually it’s more of a hike, though a distinctively uphill hike

of 2.5 miles to the summit of Overlook, a magical place where you’ll find one of the Catskill Mountains’ finest restored Fire Towers. Ascend to the top of the tower and you’ll find one of the most majestic views of the town, the Ashokan Reservoir and the Hudson Valley, and indeed you’ll find yourself pulled into the magic that Woodstock ex-

A “hotbed of intellectual and aesthetic adventure.” — New York Times

july 6 – august 19,

2012

BARDSUMMERSCAPE Bard SummerScape 2012 presents seven weeks of opera, music, theater, dance, ﬁlms, and cabaret. The season’s focal point is the 23rd annual Bard Music Festival, which this year celebrates the French composer Camille Saint-Saëns, whose remarkable career shaped not only the history of music, but also the ways in which that history was transmitted and communicated to the public. SummerScape takes place in the extraordinary Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts and other venues on Bard College’s stunning Mid-Hudson Valley campus.

Opera

Bard Music Festival

THE KING IN SPITE OF HIMSELF (Le roi malgré lui)

Twenty-third Season

Music by Emmanuel Chabrier Libretto by Emile de Najac and Paul Burani American Symphony Orchestra Conducted by Leon Botstein Directed by Thaddeus Strassberger Set design by Kevin Knight

Two weekends of concerts, panels, and other events bring the musical world of French composer Camille Saint-Saëns vividly to life.

This tale of Henri de Valois, a 16th-century French noble elected by the people of Poland to be their king, despite his great reluctance to be away from France, has been much praised for the quality of its music—indeed, no less a master than Maurice Ravel claimed that Chabrier’s score changed the course of French harmony.

Weekend Two: Confronting Modernism explores music by many of Saint-Saëns’s contemporaries —including Franck, Chabrier, and Fauré—and exoticism in music and the inﬂuence of Wagner.

sosnoff theater July 27 – August 5

Film Festival

Dance

FRANCE AND THE COLONIAL IMAGINATION

COMPAGNIE FÊTES GALANTES Choreography by Béatrice Massin

Tickets and information:

845-758-7900 ﬁshercenter.bard.edu Sign up now for the Fisher Center e-newsletter. E-members receive special offers, including discounts, throughout the season. Text “FISHERCENTER” to 22828 or e-mail ﬁshercenter@bard.edu to sign up.

Annandale-on-Hudson, New York

Founded in 1993 by Béatrice Massin, Compagnie fêtes galantes brings together Baroque style and contemporary choreography, creating a unique kind of Baroque dancing that engages and appeals to a modern sensibility. sosnoff theater July 6 – 8

Theater

THE IMAGINARY INVALID (Le malade imaginaire) By Molière Directed by Erica Schmidt

SAINT-SAËNS AND HIS WORLD

Weekend One: Paris and the Culture of Cosmopolitanism includes a radical reconsideration of Saint-Saëns’s most famous piece, The Carnival of Animals, and examines the composer’s debt to many of his contemporaries and predecessors.

August 10–12 and 17–19

The SummerScape 2012 ﬁlm festival explores the legacy of French colonialism in Africa and Southeast Asia. Thursdays and Sundays, July 12 – August 12

Spiegeltent

CABARET and FAMILY FARE The mirrored summer pavilion is the stage for a rich array of performers, from dauntless acrobats to bawdy cabaret acts. Enjoy light fare, meals, and drinks selected from Hudson Valley farms, wineries, and breweries. July 6 – August 19

The ﬁnal play by a master of comedy, The Imaginary Invalid is among Molière’s greatest works. The illusory agonies of the wealthy Argan, a housebound hypochondriac who sorely desires to marry his daughter to a doctor, have proved tonic to audiences ever since the play premiered in 1673. theater two July 13 –22

Photo: ©Scott Barrow

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley

The Frying Pan is one of the few areas around New York City-owned Ashokan Reservoir open to the public without a hiking or ﬁshing permit granted by the reservoir administration. erts. You’ll have passed the ruins of the old Overlook Mountain House, which in the early 1900s was the fashionable stop for the summer folks. To get to the trailhead, you turn right at the Village Green, go up Rock City Road, then straight up Meads Mountain Road until you reach the trail at the top, just across from KTD Monastery, the North American seat of Tibetan Buddhism, and an attraction all of its own. The Monastery, which has been visited by The Dalai Lama offers Dharma teachings and practice retreats in the Karma Kagyu tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The Main Shrine Room is open 2 p.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Friday, and, if a teaching not occurring, 10 a.m.-noon and 1 p.m.-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Free guided tours are available to the general public at 1 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. You can phone before coming to be sure that the tour will occur, 845-679-5906, extension 3. For more information, see http://www.kagyu.org Woodstock Playhouse The Woodstock Playhouse was first built in the early 1900s, then destroyed by fire in the 1930s. It

was rebuilt in 1937, the barnlike structure becoming a hub for theater and performance in Summer Stock and for concerts. Through the 1960s it maintained its reputation for first class offerings, with theatrical stars treading the boards and crowds of residents and summer visitors jamming the seats. By the 1980s summer theater at the Playhouse had reached its nadir, and in 1987 a giant fire destroyed every last stick of it. The town of Woodstock created a gateway overlay to its zoning regulations to protect the property from the suburban strip mall style development, and the local citizenry banded together in a Quixotic quest to restore the property to its former glory. Against all odds, dollars mounted up, one by one, and the property was purchased, a small bandshell erected and performance was once again present. A dedicated group, The Woodstock Arts Board, raised more funds and constructed an indoor/outdoor theater and ran productions. But just as they ran out of steam, the playhouse was purchased by the professionals who run the New York Conservatory for the Arts. The structure was again renovated and enclosed with all new seats, equipment and layout, and now features a range of programs from large summer productions to classical music, to smaller show, and has resurrected the long tradition of the property. You can find out more by going to www.WoodstockPlayhouse.org or by calling 845-679-6900. It is located at the entrance to Woodstock, 103 Mill Hill Road. Upstate Films The Rhinebeck-based Upstate Films expanded into Woodstock more than two years ago with its eclectic mix of independent and small studio films that appeal to a wide variety of audiences. The venue is the venerable Tinker Street Cinema, once the Woodstock Methodist Church that became a theater in 1967, now rechristened as Upstate

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Films and it is a non-profit operation programming the screenings. In business now for 30 years, Upstate believes in film “as a medium of social communication and aesthetic experience. Its programming (700+ screenings per year) is an eclectic mix which, in the course of any particular year, focuses on themes, issues, regions.” You can see movies that are rarely shown in this country, older films, from the profound to the comedic (and often both) that you won’t find at commercial venues. Upstate Films is at 132 Tinker Street, Woodstock. Call 845-679-6608 for times and information or see upstatefilms.org. Bearsville Theater Albert Grossman, who managed Bob Dylan, Peter Paul and Mary, and Janis Joplin, built the Bearsville Theater in the late 1970s, to be a premier music and performance space, with quality sound and sightlines. When Grossman died in 1986 the theater had not been used, and it wasn’t until the dawn of the 21st Century that it got rolling. But it has proven to be a high class small concert space that hosts artists such as Steve Earle, The California Guitar Trio, Richard Thompson, The Texas Playboys, Jack DeJohnette, the Farewell Drifters and is an important stop along the way for artists who usually play much larger spaces, but want to perform in Woodstock. It’s also the home to events such as the Woodstock Invitational Luthier’s Show in October, The Woodstock Writer’s Festival in April, and is a major participant in the Woodstock Film Festival in September. The theater sits on the property that also houses world class restaurants, The Bear Café and the Little Bear. The theater itself seats 250 comfortably, but through a huge glass wall from the bar and lounge area you can also see the show, as the fine sound system projects the formal performance into a less

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12, 2012 4 | April Explore Hudson Valley formal atmosphere. The Bearsville Theater is at 291 Tinker St., Woodstock. Call 845-679-4406 for more information, or see bearsvilletheater.com Bluegrass Clubhouse Every Thursday for more than seven years now, the Bluegrass Clubhouse convenes at the Harmony Café at the Wok ‘n Roll restaurant, 52 Mill Hill Road. This sort of hidden-in-plain-sight event features The Saturday Night Bluegrass Band (even though it plays on Thursdays) with the incredible banjo legend Bill Keith (who played with Bill Monroe and the Bluegrass Boys back in the day), along with Brian Hollander on guitar and vocals; Tim Kapeluck on mandolin and vocals; Guy ‘Fooch’ Fischetti on fiddle and pedal steel guitar; and Geoff Harden on bass and vocals. Their special guests run from the obscure to some of the finest musicians the town of Woodstock has to offer coming by to sit in for a song or two. All it will ever cost you is a donation into the jar and you get two sets of fine acoustic Americana music, and it keeps happening when the week turns to Thursday. Also available is fine Chinese and Japanese food. Call Harmony Café, where there is a musical event seven nights per week, at 845-679-7760. WAAM, Guild, and galleries In a community that is well known for its artists, the places to show that artwork take on paramount importance, and here they are world class. The Woodstock Artists Association and Muse-

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um, at 28 Tinker Street in the heart of town, houses several galleries and an adventurous lineup of shows featuring artists who are members, and outside curators who will come in and add perspective to the features. The Phoebe Towbin Wing gallery most often shows artwork from Woodstock artists whose work has been selected in the Museum’s own collection, ranging from George Bellows, Yasuo Kuniyoshi, Karl Fortess, Konrad Cramer and others from the art scene’s halcyon days in town. Right next door, at 34 Tinker Street, is the Woodstock-Byrdcliffe Guild’s Kleinert/James Arts Center, which, in addition to showing fine visual art, offers performances from classical music to theater to folk shows. The Guild’s other venues include the famous Byrdcliffe Theater, and the Byrdcliffe Barn, both housing performances, while the organization maintains many programs for visiting artists, fellowships, as well as having shows of outdoor sculpture on its property, and exhibitions of fine craftsmanship, as part of its traditional heritage. Woodstock is rich with galleries. Up on Rock City Road, you’ll find the Lotus Gallery and Photosensualis Gallery; Bernard Gerson runs BMG on Tannery Brook Road; Christina Varga is host to Varga Gallery’s eclectic offerings out on Tinker Street by Upstate Films; Evolve Gallery is across from the Woodstock Playhouse; Elena Zang shows beautiful work at her gallery on Route 212 in Shady. For information on these and others, see www.woodstockchamber.com, or call 845-6796234. ●

To reach the High Point trailhead, take Route 28A from Boiceville, turn onto Watson Hollow Road, and drive 3.8 miles to a parking area on the right. The trail begins across the road and to the east of the parking lot. Cross the wooden bridge and sign in at the register. Antiques, bargains, and the patter of auctioneer Eric Borjeson are featured at the 28 Exchange in Shokan, where auctions are held about twice a month. A handsome cabinet might sell for $75, a marble-topped coffee table for $50, a sewing machine for $10, a wooden sled for $5, a carton of tchotchkes for $2—it all depends on who’s bidding. To find out when auctions are scheduled, go to www.auctionzip.com and search the auctioneer directory for 28 Exchange, located at 3216 Route 28 just west of Winchell’s Corners (the intersection of Route 28 and Reservoir Road). You can dance your heart out at Ashokan Center, where fiddle-guitar duo Jay Ungar and Molly Mason have been holding fiddle-and-dance camps for years. This summer’s programs include swing music, contra dance, and old-time Cajun music. Also an outdoor education center, Ashokan offers both overnight accommodations and commuter prices. It is set in a region of spectacular gorges and has historic structures dating from its days as a farm and mill site. For details, see www.ashokancenter.org. -Violet Snow

Olive

Feeling adventurous? Heat getting to you? Try riding down the Esopus River on an inner tube. There are two tubing businesses in Phoenicia that will set you up with a life jacket and an inflated rubber doughnut with a wooden seat roped to the bottom to protect your fanny. A truck or bus is available to drive you upriver, and then you will glide or plummet on the current, possibly whooping and hollering, until you reach town. Or if you’re a novice, you can start from town and float more sedately down the less rocky stretch to Mt. Pleasant, where you will be picked up and brought back to Phoenicia. F & S Adventures is at 29 Main Street, and the Town Tinker is at 10 Bridge Street. Check their respective Facebook pages for details of river conditions to see if tubing is available on a given day. Hiking trails can be found all over Shandaken, but if you’re looking for a hike that’s full of interest and not too long, there’s a trailhead right in Phoenicia. On the far side of the Phoenicia Park, located behind the post office on Ava Maria Drive, is a small bridge that leads to the Tanbark Trail. It traverses the base of a sheer cliff, skirts a hemlock grove that was once a source of bark for tanneries, and climbs to an overlook that offers a splendid view of a little toy town that appears to be Phoenicia, nestled among the mountains. If the one-mile loop that leads across the overlook is too tame for your taste, you can branch off to a longer and steeper trail that will bring you to another high ledge with an equally spectacular view. Just follow the blue Tanbark Trail markers to a sign that will point you in the right direction. Even if you’re here to commune with the gods of nature, you might get a hankering for a culture fix. Phoenicia boasts two art galleries (Cabane Gallery

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The Frying Pan is one of the few areas around New York City-owned Ashokan Reservoir open to the public without a hiking or fishing permit granted by the reservoir administration. The “handle” of the pan is a long, paved walkway that starts at a circular parking lot and extends along the reservoir dike, open to sweeping views of water and sky. People of all ages stroll, skate, or bicycle down the level pathway while ducks cavort in the water and occasionally deer graze the sloped lawn along the other side of the dike. The far end of the walkway joins Reservoir Road near an area frequented by a pair of bald eagles that can sometimes be seen nesting in a tree or flying over the water. Bring binoculars if you want to look for eagles, a hat to protect from the sun (there’s no shade whatsoever), and warm enough clothes for the often strong wind. The Frying Pan is located on a dead end road on the north side of Route 28A, about one mile east of Monument Road. For a more strenuous hike, try the Ashokan High Point trail, an eight-mile trek to the top of the highest mountain in Olive. Highlights of the trip include gorgeous views, a classical brook, and, in the right season, blueberries. Hiking time is estimated at four and a half hours over a moderately difficult trail.

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Woodstock Artists Association and Museum and Arts Upstairs) and a theater (STS Playhouse) that produces several plays each year and shows a classic film on the last Friday of each month. Phoenicia Phirst Phridays are held every month at Arts Upstairs, with music, a poetry open mic, and a short play reading. Check out Woodland Valley Books, above the ice cream shop, for used books and the occasional poetry reading. And of course, there’s the Phoenicia International Festival of the Voice on the first weekend of August. History buffs will enjoy a self-guided tour of Pine Hill, at the western end of Shandaken, where Victorian, Italianate, Gothic Revival, and other architectural styles remain from the heyday of the Catskill resorts in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Four local structures are already on the National Register of Historic Places, and by the time you read this, the town may be designated a National

Uptown Kingston

Historic Site. Admire the Morton Library, a stone building from 1903; the former hotels with their

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wraparound porches; two arched stone bridges; and the elegant homes, many of which were once boarding houses. Tour booklets will be available at local shops. You might also want to visit the Shandaken Historical Museum, which is housed in a former school building at 26 Academy Street. Its intriguing collection includes vintage photographs, tools, furniture, and other artifacts. But hours vary with the seasons, so call 688-3116 to find out when it’s open. Reach Pine Hill by driving west on Route 28. Eleven miles from Phoenicia you’ll see signs for the turnoff to Main Street. If your kids like trains, take them on a ride with the Catskill Mountain Railroad. A vintage locomotive draws two fully restored antique passenger coaches on a five-mile round trip between Mt. Tremper and Boiceville. Trains run on weekends from Memorial Day through Columbus Day, departing from Mt. Tremper Station, located on Route 28, 22 miles from Kingston and about a mile west of Route 212. At this time, trains do not go through to Phoenicia, due to track damage from Hurricane Irene, but it’s a quick drive to the Phoenicia train station, where the Empire State Railway Museum exhibits model trains and historical photos of Phoenicia’s railroading past. -Violet Snow

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Kingston

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early-republic history. The grounds, in Kingston’s Stockade District, play host to a wealth of historical re-enactments and festivities throughout the spring, summer and fall. Even when nothing’s going on, the peaceful, tree-filled grounds serve as an urban oasis and a low-tech time machine to the first stirrings of our nation. Through October 31, the Senate House State Historic Site is open Wednesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. The site is open on Memorial Day, Independence Day and Labor Day. The tour and

museum admission is $4 for adults, $3 for those 62 and older and free for kids under twelve. Plug 296 Fair Street, Kingston NY into your GPS to find it. (And bring some change for the parking meters; city meter-readers write tickets with zeal.)

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Hudson River Maritime Museum Geography is destiny. The Hudson River, the broad aquatic highway which was not so long ago the most important river in the nation, has been the defining line of our region, and its history is described and celebrated at the Hudson River Maritime Museum. The whole story, from canoes, the Half Moon and sloops to steam tugs and dayliners to the return of the sloop in the form of the Clearwater (which will make its winter home at the museum starting this year) is communicated through interactive exhibits, displays of four centuries’ worth of riverine relics and numerous programs. A steam tug sits outside the museum’s home on the Strand, on the banks of the Rondout Creek. Rides are available from the docks to the nearby Rondout Lighthouse and the museum is host to several large festivals a year. The museum is open seven days a week from 11

Senate House The state Senate chambers in Albany, with its posh leather seats, lush carpeting and ornate stonework, projects the power and wealth for which the Empire State is known. When New York was just starting out in the fall of 1777, the scale was much more intimate — 24 men meeting in a Dutch colonial stone house in Kingston owned by a local merchant. (The state Assembly also first met in Kingston, at a tavern a few blocks away. The annex the Senate House to serve as a museum in the 1920s is now a locus for the region’s colonial and

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Keegan Ales Think global, drink local. Keegan Ales, housed in a building on St. James Street long used as a brewery, makes some fine beers. Keegan offers occasional food — the summer barbecues are among the finest in the region — and a never-ending parade of bands from all musical genres. Fresh, pure, handcrafted beer emerges right from the vats, and it’s good beer, too; Keegan’s has won numerous prizes for its suds. If you’re into good brew, Keegan’s is a local treasure. Keegan Ales, 20 St. James Street in Uptown Kingston, is closed on Mondays, open 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays and 1 to 10 p.m. on Sundays. Call 331-BREW or e-mail beer@keeganales.com if you need more info.

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April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley a.m. to 5 p.m. from May through October, including national holidays. Admission, which includes a selfguided tour of exhibits, including the annual changing exhibit, is $7 for adults, $5 for seniors 62 and over and kids 5-18 and free for kids under 5. Enter 50 Rondout Landing, Kingston, NY into your GPS; call 338-0071 or log onto hrmm.org for more info. Trolley Museum of New York Everything old may one day become new again. In the time before everybody had their own car, trolleys, that is to say semi-open train cars with tracks embedded in the middle of the street, were the way to get around town. They never went away from San Francisco and some European cities, they never went away, and they may make a return in a more energy-conscious post-automotive future in Kingston. Until that time, the legends and lore of trolleys are ensconced at the Trolley Museum of New York down on the Rondout. As well as informative displays and exhibits on the passenger trains, the museum, built on the site of the old Ulster & Delaware rail yard, operates its own trolley. The car, a restored model (with period advertisements inside) which originally ran in Johnstown, Pa., traverses a mile and a half from Kingston Point to T.R. Gallo Park at the foot of Broadway. The museum is open Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from Memorial Day weekend to Colum-

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bus Day, noon to 5 p.m. The last trolley for the day usually departs at 4:15 p.m. Various special events are planned throughout the museum’s season; if you can’t wait until Memorial Day to take a trolley ride, the train will run on Mother’s Day, May 13,

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from noon to 5 p.m. Plug 89 East Strand, Kingston, NY, into the GPS to find it. Look up tmny.org on the Internet or call 331-3399 for more information. -Dan Barton

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An 18th-century history enthusiast at Historic Huguenot Street in New Paltz

ozens of day-trip or get-away weekend opportunities await off Thruway Exit 18 in New Paltz. There are hundreds of miles of trails and old carriage roads for runners, bikers, hikers, horseback riders and naturalists. There are cliffs for amateur, aspiring or seasoned rock-climbers, as well as a sky-diving ranch for those brave enough to

take that plunge. There are historical and cultural venues including Historic Huguenot Street (oldest incorporated street in America), the Dorsky Museum of Fine Arts at SUNY New Paltz, scores of shops and galleries, and an abundance of farmstands and pick-your-own fruits, vegetables, pumpkins and flowers. Mohonk and Minnewaska As one enters New Paltz via Main Street, the views west toward the Shawangunk Ridge are spectacular. Perhaps the Shawangunks’ most

popular outing is a hike to the crowning glory of the Mohonk Mountain House property adjoining the 6400-acre Mohonk Preserve. Sky Top Tower is the memorial erected for Albert K. Smiley, one of the Quaker brothers who purchased the Mohonk property in 1869 and developed the boarding house that eventually evolved into the unique present-day mountain house. The hotel itself, a Victorian castle built on spectacular cliffs above the deep blue waters of Lake Mohonk, has become a timeless favorite among New York State’s resorts. To learn more, visit www.mohonk.com. A

Summer Camps Summer Archaeology Field School for High School Students July 23 - July 27 WANTED: ENTHUSIASTIC HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS TO WORK SIDE-BY-SIDE WITH FIELD ARCHAEOLOGIST! Join Historic Huguenot Street, a National Historic Landmark District, for an incredible week of archaeological exploration. In this hands-on introduction to archaeology, students will assist resident archaeologist, Kevin Van Kleeck at a working excavation site and learn all about research reporting and the handling of historical artifacts. Students will also create scaled-drawings of individual archaeology units and develop artifacts for exhibition. This one-week program is tailor-made for a college essay or resume. In addition, students will learn about Historic Huguenot Street, which is one of the richest archaeological sites in the Hudson Valley. Artifacts from over 330 years of European settlement as well as Native American artifacts dating back to 8,000 B.C. have been discovered during our archaeological digs. To register call Rebecca Mackey at 845.255.1660 x 105 or contact rebecca@huguenotstreet.org to learn more.

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SUMMER CAMPS New Paltz, NY • 845-255-3220 www.luckycstables.com

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley

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climb to the top of the stone tower offers visitors a chance to enjoy 360-degree views of the Shawangunk Ridge, the mountain-house grounds and the

The Mohonk Preserve has 70 miles of easily accessible carriage roads that can take visitors into woodlands, lakes, meadows, marshes, farm ﬁelds and astounding open vistas…

Skytop Tower with mountain laurel in bloom

lauren thomas

mid-Hudson Valley. The Mohonk Preserve, the largest non-profit nature preserve in New York, offers a visitors’ center with interpretive nature walks and exhibits, activities for children and a butterfly garden. It’s tucked just beneath the Shawangunk Mountain cliffs off Route 44/55 in New Paltz. You can visit for an hour, a day, or as long as you can stay and play, The preserve has 70 miles of carriage roads easily accessible that can take visitors into woodlands, lakes, meadows, marshes, farm fields and astounding open vistas. There are multi-use trails for hikers, bikers, skiers, runners, bird-watchers, horseback riders and those with gear slung over their back looking for just the right climbing route. And if rock-climbing is what you’ve come for, there are multiple climbing sites throughout the area. Better known as The Trapps, these climbing routes include everything from world-class treacherous overhangs to beginners’ routes. Because there’s a strong climbing community, several climbing guides are available to lead visitors through a route safely. Equipment can be obtained at Rock and Snow in downtown New Paltz. Another of the many magical places within the Mohonk Preserve is Split Rock, were two magnificent cliffs are split by a cascading waterfall, a swimming hole, and the Coxing stream. Slabs of stones to lie on, picnic or dry off from a fresh water swim. For information, log on to www.Mohonkpreserve.org. Also situated in the dramatic Shawaungunk Ridge is New York’s Minnewaska State Park Preserve, rising almost 2000 feet above sea level and surrounded by rugged, rocky terrain. The park

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12, 2012 10 | April Explore Hudson Valley features numerous waterfalls, three crystalline sky lakes, dense hardwood forests, incising sheer cliffs, clear streams that cut into the valley, rockclimbing, bouldering, 25 miles of footpaths and 35 miles of carriage roads which often link to the carriage roads at the Mohonk Preserve. Visitors can pay a day fee and drive right up to Minnewaska Lake, where they can enjoy a dip and a walk around the skylake, or venture further into the heart of the park all the way to Awosting Lake. Castle Point and Gertrude’s Nose provide breathtaking views of the Hudson Valley. The 21,000acre park is located on Route 44/55, five miles west of the intersection of Route 299 and Route 44/55 in Gardiner. For information visit nysparks. state.ny.us or call 255-0752. Walking, biking and jumping For a once-in-a-lifetime walk, head to the recently opened Walkway Over the Hudson — the longest elevated pedestrian bridge in the world — that takes visitors from Highland across the Hudson River to Poughkeepsie. The walkway was the dream of a not-for-profit group that conceived of the idea of turning an old abandoned railroad bridge into a pedestrian park. With the help of private and public funding partnerships, this dream became a reality in October 2009. Since that time a reported 500,000 persons have visited. The pedestrian walkway is free and open year round, weather permitting. For information about go to www.walkway.org. If you don’t suffer from vertigo and have always had a hankering to drop thousands of feet in the

Summer Camps 51st Year

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Above: a defunct caboose decorates the Hudson Valley Rail Trail in Highland; right: Tuthilltown Spirts in Gardiner. Pictured left to right: Gable Erenzo, Cathy Erenzo, Ralph Erenzo, Brian Lee and Joel Elder

air from an open door of a plane there is a skydiving ranch in Gardiner that provides brief lessons and professional guides to jump tandem for firsttime thrill seekers, as well as jumps for avid skydivers and licensing programs for those who are more passionate about the sport. If you want to mark your first jump or special occasion, videographers are on hand to jump alongside you and record your adventure on tape for a special keepsake. To learn more visit www.skydivetheranch. com or call 255-4033. If you’re not inclined to tackle the mountains or the sky, however, not to worry. The 12.2-mile Wallkill Valley Rail-Trail, a multi-use linear park that runs from the hamlet of Gardiner through this fall. The rail-trail can also take visitors to stores, restaurants and other attractions without their ever having to get into a car. Visit www.gorailtrail.org to learn more. Just off the Wallkill Valley Rail-Trail in the center of New Paltz is Historic Huguenot Street, where visitors can take guided tours of the old stone houses, and learn about the rich Native American, European and African-American history and culture. Several of the restored and maintained stone houses date back to the seventeenth century. For information visit www.huguenotstreet.org. One can also experience the beauty of the area by hiking or biking on another rail-trail. The Hudson Valley Rail-Trail in Highland connects to the Walkway over the Hudson. But before you begin your trek through the beautiful four-mile stretch of railtrail, pick up a picnic lunch and trail accessories in the hamlet of Highland. You’ll find cafés, pizza shops, pubs, restaurants and antiques galleries. The Hudson Valley rail-trail also connects to the

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photos by lauren thomas

Black Creek wetlands. The rail bed at Black Creek crossing is approximately 20 feet high, providing an extraordinary vista of Illinois Mountain. Black Creek is a protected trout stream. It is accessible via stairs to the creek. From the trail, look across at Illinois Mountain to see an original rail bed from the 19th century. If you’re feeling adventurous, head back up the trail and scramble down the embankment, following the old rail bed out into the bog for an exceptional view of the trail, the creek and Illinois Mountain. For more, visit www. hudsonvalleyrailtrail.net. Arts, wine and bourbon Within walking distance of the Trailways bus stop in downtown New Paltz is the Samuel Dorsky Museum on the SUNY New Paltz campus. The Dorsky, one of the largest museums in the SUNY system, boasts more than 9000 square feet of exhibition space distributed over six galleries. The Dorsky’s permanent collection comprises more than 5000 works of art, focusing on American art, with an emphasis on the Hudson Valley and Catskills region, plus photography and metals. There are a few art objects and artifacts dating back to ancient times. Exhibitions rotate on a regular basis. Go to www.newpaltz.edu.museum or call 2573844. Steeped in environmental, cultural and historical richness, the Hudson Valley is also American’s oldest wine-making and grape-growing region. Wine enthusiasts can enjoy more than a half-dozen southern Ulster County vineyards and wineries with tasting rooms. Each winery is unique and distinct, but they are tied together through the Hudson Valley Wine Trail, offering many collaborative events. To learn more go to www.hudsonvalleywinecountry.org.

Bringing the best of Broadway to New York’s Hudson Valley! Now Celebrating our 11th Season! THE 2012 SEASON “Chess” Performances May 4, 5, 6, 11, 12 & 13 Director: Dawn Bernitt-Perito with Music Director: John Barath “Weird Romance” Performances September 21, 22, 23, 28, 29 & 30 Director: Joseph Gayton “Play It Again, Sam” Performances December 14, 15 & 16 Director: Kevin Barnes

For more information and tickets, go to www.TrinityPlayersNY.org or call 845-227-7855 All performances are at the Cunneen-Hackett Art Center, 12 Vassar Street Poughkeepsie.

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley

| 11

Today, Tuthilltown Spirits distills vodkas from apples grown at orchards less than five miles away and whiskeys using grain harvested by farmers less than ten miles away. The farm distillery also produces rum, eau de vie, brandy, absinthe and infusions. And recently, Tuthilltown Spirits farm distillery has announced the impending release of its latest homage to Henry Hudson and his adventurous spirit with its Half Moon Gin. Infused into this gin are wheat and the valley’s ubiquitous apples. Ending with apples Speaking of apples, and let’s do that, Ulster County and the rest of the Hudson Valley will soon be imploding with apple blossoms, berries of all sorts, sweet corn and freshly grown flowers, cider, maple syrup and a splendor of many agricultural bounties. Several-generational family-ownedand-operated independent farms remain in New Paltz, Lloyd and Gardiner, including Dressel’s Farm on Route 208 in New Paltz, Moriello’s Farm on Route 32 South in New Paltz, Wright’s Farm in Gardiner, Hurd’s Farm in Modena, the Wallkill View Farm Market along Route 299 in New Paltz and Jenkins-Leuken Orchards, also on Route 299 in New Paltz as one winds their way up towards the Shawangunk Ridge. Whatever your pleasure, there’s a little taste of everything in the Hudson Valley, including athletic and outdoor pursuits, culinary delights, historic homes, modern art, farm-fresh produce and a natural beauty that has made the region one of the hottest ecotourism destinations in the country. -Erin Quinn

lauren thomas

Walkway Over the Hudson If you’re looking for something to put a little more hair on your tongue, you won’t want to miss a visit to Tuthilltown Spirits and historic gristmill in Gardiner. Before Prohibition, more than 1000 farm distillers produced alcohol from New York grains and fruits. Tuthilltown Spirits is bringing the tradition of small-batch distillation back to the Hudson Valley, distilling whiskeys which were the first legally distilled and aged grain spirits produced in New York since Prohibition. New York’s first bourbon, Hudson baby Bourbon, is distilled from 100% New York corn. The handmade spirits, which start at the farm distillery as raw grain and fruit, are made without added flavor or color and are not chill or carbon filtered. For 220 years Tuthilltown Gristmill, a landmark

listed on the National Register of Historic Places, used waterpower to render local grains to flour. In 2001 Ralph Erenzo and Vicki Morgan acquired the property and with the help of partner Brian Lee converted one of the mill granaries to a microdistillery. Two and a half years later, Tuthilltown

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Spirits produced its first batches of vodka from scraps they collected at a local apple slicing plant.

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12, 2012 12 | April Explore Hudson Valley

Marbletown Accord Stone Ridge Hurley Kerhonkson Ellenville

209 Corridor

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will dendis

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Far left: Photo of ruins of the Vernooy Mill in the town of Rochester, once a major crossroads where farmers brought their grain to be milled; above right: Sam’s Point Preserve in Cragsmoor; bottom right: a bridge at Vernooy Kill Falls;

Hurley, Stone Ridge, Accord, Kerhonkson, Ellenville. A pleasant drive on Route 209 takes you through these picturesque southwestern Ulster County hamlets with seemingly nothing more to offer than a post office and a few stores. The am-

bience is contemplative along this corridor, which may be a great part of the attraction. People can spend time here without being pressured to participate in a lot of regional hype. Visitors can enjoy a truly country experience with comfortable

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amenities. A variety of outdoor activities can be suggested to anyone yearning to get out into nature. There’s also a side trip on Route 213 to consider. That modest east-west two-lane state highway takes one from Route 209 west to Olivebridge and the Ashokan Reservoir and east to High Falls and Rosendale. The area has drawn its share of famous names. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis used to stay at Tack Tavern when her friend Bill Walton, federal commissioner of fine arts, was owner of that eighteenth-century stone house. Other famous people have found discrete havens in and around the Town of Marbletown, from Marc Chagall to supermodel-actress-entrepreneur Carol Alt. Current residents of fame will not be mentioned, but don’t be surprised to run into a world-renowned actor cruising the aisles at the local wine shop or lying on the mat next to you in a yoga class. At least one celebrity of note has hung a shingle out her door — artist-comedienne Denny Dillon owns a gallery called The Drawing Room in Stone Ridge from which she also teaches art and drama classes to kids of all ages. More than 200 original stone houses can be found along the rich alluvial valleys through which Route 209 was built. The little town of Old Hurley has several historically significant ones, and at least fifteen others can be found nearby. The El-

Sunday April 15 12 – 6 Free Mini Cupcakes all day! Free samples from Mudd Puddle! Free Wine samples from In Good Taste! Free Root Beer samples from Gilded Otter! Free samples from Candy Candy! Free Chutney samples from Cheese Plate! Free Kids Color Page from Gray Owl Gallery! Free dog treat sample from Paws of Distinction! 10% off glass kisses at Maglyns Dream! Live Music by Essential Food Group!

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April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley mendorf House in Hurley is headquarters of the local Heritage Society Museum (www.hurleyheritagesociety.org), another must-see for history aficionados. Each July Hurley hosts a Stone House Day when the houses are opened for touring. You just know that if Washington didn’t sleep in these houses he did at least meet with local leaders and other revolutionary types in a nearby tavern or two. Hurley was also a stop on the Underground Railroad. The Bevier House in north Marbletown, one-time home to Colonial slave owners and refuge to some citizens of Kingston when the British burned that town to the ground, now holds annual gatherings of both Civil War and Revolutionary War encampments. The stately house (www.bevierhousemuseum.org) is home to the Ulster County Historic Society. Many stone houses are now private homes and inns. A few are open to the public as veritable living museums, offering tours and other educational activities. History buffs and the simply curious will enjoy standing in a room of thick beams and foot-wide floor planks with massive open-hearth

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12, 2012 14 | April Explore Hudson Valley fireplaces, imagining what went on there in the past couple of hundred years. Stone houses dot the pastoral landscape for miles around, some tastefully restored and others barely standing. Further south in Stone Ridge, the very intact Tack Tavern sits across the road from the privately owned Wynkoop House, also an architecturally impressive stone structure under occasional restoration. Nearby is the Stone Ridge Library, also a historic stone structure. The impressive Inn at Stone Ridge (www.innatstoneridge.com), also known as Hasbrouck House, has a living history that can be reviewed while one is taking repast in the beautifully restored tavern at Happy Hour. Now collaborating with Frank and Kristen Marquette’s Murder Café, the inn hosts morbid mystery dinners. What would the original occupants have made of such a turn of events? A bit to the east on Route 213 in Rosendale, onetime location of a thriving cement mining operation, the Snyder Estate boasts a collection of antique sleighs and carriages, and its Widow Jane Mine, where the materials for cement were once quarried, has been used for special concerts and plays. It is the home of the Century House Historical Society (www.centuryhouse.org). Ruins of old cement kilns can be found on the property. Up the hill on Binnewater Lane is the Women’s Studio Workshop (www.wsworkshop.org), a workspace for female artists that conducts several exhibitions each year. In the hamlet, eclectic shops line Main Street, and Favata’s Table Rock Tours & Bicycles (www.trtbicycles.com) rents bikes and arranges bike tours through the territory. In nearby High Falls, the arts and antiques businesses flourish in a hamlet once dominated by the Delaware & Hudson Canal, built in 1828 to carry coal from Pennsylvania to Kingston and on to

Antiques Over 30 dealers offering fine antiques, collectibles and selected classic reproductions. FURNITURE • GLASSWARE • SILVER CHINA • JEWELRY • POSTCARDS BRONZES • TOYS • DOLLS

The area has drawn its share of famous names. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis used to stay at Tack Tavern when her friend Bill Walton, federal commissioner of ﬁne arts, was owner of that eighteenth-century stone house. Other famous people have found discrete havens in and around the Town of Marbletown, from Marc Chagall to supermodel-actress-entrepreneur Carol Alt. New York City. High Falls boasts the highest concentration of locks and lock ruins on this stretch of canal; barges were raised or lowered a full 70 feet. Visitors can hear about such engineering exploits in the Delaware & Hudson Canal Museum (www.canalmuseum.org), which offers self-guided walking tours through the locks. A thriving flea market, a natural-foods co-op, and a dramatic set of waterfalls where creek paddlers can put their boats in the water at Central Hudson’s public ramp make High Falls a cool place to hang out. Jazz and other genres of live music can be heard regularly at the Rosendale Café (www.rosendalecafe.com), at the High Falls Café (www.highfallscafe.com), and at Jack and Luna’s in Stone Ridge (www.jackandlunas.com). In Hurley every other year or so, the Levon Helm Band graces an outdoor platform stage at Gill Farm for a free concert. The cooperatively run Rosendale Theatre (www. rosendaletheatre.org) maintains a full listing of films along with hosting live performances and pertinent social events. In Ellenville, Shadowland Theatre (www.shadowlandtheatre.org) offers a full range of professional performances at an affordable price. The John Quimby Theater at SUNY Ulster in Stone Ridge a few hundred yards off Route 209 (www. sunyulster.edu/campus_and_culture/arts) is the venue for student and professional theatrical productions, concerts, dance presentations, poetry readings, guest lectures and other featured events. And Marbletown Multi-Arts (www.cometomama. org) in Stone Ridge has become a strong hub of creative and spiritual energy, offering concerts, a

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diverse array of classes, and an all-organic juice bar and café. The newly forming sustainability organization Transition Marbletown (www.transitionmarbletown.org) holds screenings and educational events at MaMA, too. As a scenic drive, Route 209 is one of the older roads in the country. Once called the Old Mine Road, it was a trading route between the territories of Pennsylvania and New York. Nestled between the lower Catskills and the Shawangunk Ridge, the artery intersects not only Route 213 but smaller roads penetrating the surrounding foothills, which makes for great bicycling and motorcycling tours. Once a trail used by indigenous peoples, the path the road follows now provides easy entry to winter sports and summer activities throughout the region. Courses in Kerhonkson, Ellenville, Accord, and High Falls cater to golfers with a broad range of skills. Rock climbing in the Gunks can be accessed from this side of the mountains. The famous Mohonk Mountain House offers a range of leisure and spa activities, and another golf course. Auto racing, which thrills spectators at the Accord Speedway (www.accordspeedway.com), is rumored to be taking place again this year. The vertically unchallenged can take to the air for hang gliding and paragliding instruction at Mountain Wings in Ellenville (www.mtnwings.com). The local creeks feature swimming holes, some public — like the life-guard monitored Marbletown Park on Tongore Road (www.marbletown. net/government/youth_programs.cfm), where safe swimming lessons are held for local kids. There are many not-so-public places. It’s best to ask the locals where to take a swim break on a hot day. The public pool in Rosendale (www.townofrosendale.com/pool.cfm) may be closed this year for budgetary reasons. An option is to slip indoors on a hot summer day at Skate Time 209 in Accord (www.skatetime209.com) for family fun on eight wheels and air conditioning. Hiking opportunities are within easy reach from the 209 corridor. Trail systems of note include the Vernooy Kill Falls near Kerhonkson, located five miles up Cherrytown Road offering trails for hiking and mountain biking with the promise of a cool splash in the pools. Nearby, the Lundy Estate (www. osiny.org/site/PageServer?pagename=Catskills_ LundyEstate), now owned by the Open Space Institute and managed by the Palisades Park Commission, has miles of newly blazed hiking trails and abundant opportunities for fishing, hunting,

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skiing, snowshoeing and camping. Further south in Cragsmoor, Sam’s Point Preserve and Conservation Center, also owned by OSI, is managed by the Nature Conservancy. Following the old O&W Railway track is a greatly appreciated rail-trail (www.marbletown.net/MarbletownOWRailTrail.cfm) which stretches from the north end of Hurley to Kripplebush Creek south of Stone Ridge. Multiple trail entries make access easy for walkers, bikers, roller bladders and strollers. Dogs and horses are welcome. It’s always spectacular to make your way along Route 213 across to the New York City-owned Ashokan Reservoir to the west of Stone Ridge in any season. But it’s heavily patrolled, so on’t expect to swim or hike there. The fertile soil of the Rondout Valley and the Hurley Plains have sustainedarms that have produced foodstuffs for local inhabitants ever since white settlement in the 1650s. Contemporary growers and livestock producers have banded together as the Rondout Valley Growers Association (www. rondoutvalleygrowers.org) to support and maintain the agriculture of the region. Farm stands and CSAs abound, and permaculture farms indicate an even more sustainable trend. At Hollengold Farm in Accord (www.hollengoldfarm.com) botanical art classes mix with sustainable foods and healthy living education. Many U-pick opportunities are available during the harvest season: flowers at Gill Farm, berries and veggies at Kelder’s Farm (www.kelderfarm. com) and Saunderskill Farm (www.saunderskillfarm.com) in Kerhonkson, apples and berries at the Stone Ridge Orchard (www.stoneridgeorchard.us), with others places cropping up each year. The Kelders run hay rides through their acreage, and have farm animals that love to be fed and an edible miniature golf course on the property. Various corn mazes provide family entertainment. Colonial- and industrial-era history, old Dutch architecture, a vibrant tradition of agriculture and a terrific sense of community all come together to give the Rondout Valley and Lower Esopus Creek area an inviting feeling for visitors and residents alike. What you’ve read here is by no means an exhaustive list of what there is to do and see. Crafters and artisans are tucked into every village. Musicians play into the breezes. And don’t forget events like the legendary Pickle Festival in Rosendale, the annual Barn Dance and the RVGA Harvest Dinner in Stone Ridge, and other gatherings to celebrate country delights! Be sure to check weekly listings in the Alm@nac for a variety of current events. -Ann Hutton

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Hyde Park

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grew up in the family home of Springwood. The Roosevelts were about fourth on the list of rich Hyde Park families. The old homestead, meticulously preserved by the National Park Service as it looked during Roosevelt’s presidency, is intimate for a Great Home, allowing visitors to humanize the Great Man and get a real feel for how he and his family lived. The Henry A. Wallace Visitors Center, the public gateway to the Roosevelt compound, includes a museum telling the story of the Roosevelts and the nation’s first presidential library. When you’re done soaking in the history and have taken a walk around the site’s 300 acres, you can pay your respects to FDR himself — he and Eleanor lie side by side in the Rose Garden. For much of his twelve-plus years in office, Roosevelt only wanted to get back to Hyde Park and Springwood, the place he loved best. Come and see

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what he thought was so special. The Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt (plug 4097 Albany Post Road, Hyde Park, into the GPS) is open every day except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Seeing the home requires joining a guided tour, which can sell out on weekends and during the peak summer months. For up-to-date information on tours, call 229-5320. The Franklin D. Roosevelt Library and Museum operates on the same schedule as the home. Combination tickets for both may be purchased for $14; getting into the museum alone is $7 (Children under 15 get into the museum free). The visitors’ center is the jumpingoff point for the “Roosevelt Ride,” which will pick you up at the Poughkeepsie Metro-North station and shuttle-bus you around Springwood, Eleanor Roosevelt’s home at Val-Kill, Top Cottage and the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site. Reservations for the ride are required; call 229-5320. Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site The one percent today hasn’t got a thing on the upper crust of the one percent of the Gilded Age. At the very top of the pyramid of the American rich of the late-19th and early-20th century was the Vanderbilt family. Cornelius “The Commodore” made millions on railroads and steamships. The house in Hyde Park was built by Frederick Vanderbilt, a grandson of the commodore and a 61-year member of the board of the New York Central Railroad. It’s not by any means the largest house in the family portfolio, but its impeccable Beaux-Arts excellence, both outside and inside, lends visitors a taste of the power and beauty the barely restrained capitalism of that era afforded the Vanderbilts. The house is splendid in its own right, but the 211-acre grounds offer delights of their own. Some of the best views of the valley are found here. The Italian Gardens, modeled on a Renaissance palazzo, have been partially restored over more than 30 years. A walk down to Bard Rock (you can take your car on weekdays) offers a chance to get close to the river, and the grounds are the northern end of the Hyde Park Trail, which starts at Val-Kill and loops through all of the town’s highlights. The grounds are free to enter and enjoy every day until sunset. Many locals like to pick up a snack from the down-Route 9 Dairy Queen and drive to the scenic overlook to get their munch on while enjoying the majestic view. Getting inside the house, much easier today then when the Vanderbilts were the richest family in town, is via a guided tour; offered at 9 and 10 a.m., noon, and 2 and 4 p.m. That schedule is subject to change,

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley so make a reservation at 877-444-6777 beforehand. Admission to the house is $8. Plug in 119 Vanderbilt Park Road, Hyde Park, into the GPS to get there. Staatsburgh State Historic Site Up the road a bit from the Vanderbilts, Rogerses and Roosevelts lies another big fancy house. Formerly known as Mills Mansion, for original residents and power couple of Ruth Livingston and Ogden Mills, it reverted to its original name, Staatsburgh, about five years ago. About half the size of the Vanderbilt Mansion, Staatsburgh is also a leading example of the Beaux-Arts school, but its wood paneling and slightly less opulent appointments make it a different experience from its largely-marble neighbor to the south. Of the many historic homes which dot the river, perhaps Staatsburgh gives the most Downton-Abbey feel. Acres of grounds and trails make the site, ensconced in Norrie State Park, a fantastic choice for both history and exercise. Tours are available Wednesdays through Sundays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. April through October; admission is $8 for adults and $6 for students and seniors. Call 889-8851 for more information. Enter 75 Mills Mansion Road, Staatsburg, into your GPS to get there.

can participate in and benefit from the learning process. The former monastery at the bottom of Hyde Park offers its really good food to the public in a number of settings — the ultra-formal Escoffier Restaurant, which focuses on the finest of French dining; American Bounty, where the best in New World dishes can be found; Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, with five separate dining rooms to exult Italian cooking; St. Andrews Café, where the emphasis is on healthy cooking; and the Apple Pie Bakery Café, where the baking and pastry-arts students share the best of their assignments.

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The CIA’s many options vary very widely in price and level of formality and reservations are at least suggested and often essential — and often pretty far in advance — to getting a table. (Except the Apple Pie Café, where you can just show up without prior arrangements.) Call 471-6608 or log on to https://secure.culinary.edu/Reservations/ ChooseRestaurant.cfm to get signed up. Plug 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, into your GPS to get there. -Dan Barton

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12, 2012 18 | April Explore Hudson Valley

Esopus

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efore there was a New York State Thruway, US Route 9W was the primary option if you wanted to travel by car on the west side of the Hudson River a considerable distance. Your trip took a lot longer than it would today to get where you were going, but the route presented opportunities for side excursions nowadays more easily overlooked. Taking in the local sights is now a lower priority than making time. Happily, in the past couple of decades the Town of Esopus and a number of environmen-

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tal organizations have made considerable headway in preserving parkland along the town’s 9W corridor, in developing trail networks and in installing interpretive aids to enhance the visitor experience. In a way there’s actually more to see along that old highway than there once was, and what is there has become more accessible. Let’s check out a menu from which you can select and easily combine options for a full day’s outing. Regardless of which stops you decide to make, the first thing you need to take with you for this trip is a copy of the “Discover the Town of Esopus Heritage and Recreation Network” map and guide pamphlet, downloadable at www.scenichudson. org/files/u2/esopus_heritage_trail.pdf. Sleightsburgh Park Heading southward, the gateway to Esopus is Kingston’s four-lane arterial called Frank Koenig Boulevard, which crosses the Rondout Creek not far from its confluence with the Hudson. Your first possible left once you’ve crossed the bridge into the Kingston suburb of Port Ewen is the way to go if you want to visit Sleightsburgh Park, which covers the 79-acre peninsula at the mouth of the Rondout. Head east on North Broadway, then right on First Avenue and left on Everson Street; the park entrance is on the right. If you’re a canoeist or kayaker, the first thing that you’ll notice is that there’s an excellent non-motorized boat landing right by the parking lot, directly across from Kingston’s Strand. Plan to come back another time with your watercraft and explore

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the waterway, which is fascinating whether you head upstream on the Rondout or downstream into the Hudson. Today we have too much else to do on our auto excursion, so let’s try a quick exploration on foot. The trails in Sleightsburgh Park are, to put it frankly, a little scuzzy, and offer no extra amenities — not so much as a porta-potty. But they’re worth a visit because they lead out to the long stone causeway called Sleightsburgh Spit — about a half-mile walk. Popular with anglers, the spit affords excellent views of the Rondout Lighthouse to the north, Rhinecliff across the Hudson (you can spot the big meadow where Chelsea Clinton had her wedding), and to the south the ruins of an artillery emplacement that guarded the entrance to Kingston’s harbor during the Civil War. Keep an eye on the tide tables, as a couple of islands are only accessible on foot at low tide. It’s a great place for spotting eagles, and the river mouth is also full of romantic old wrecks of barges and crumbling piers. Sleightsburgh Park is open year-round daily dawn to dusk. Visit www.scenichudson.org/parks/ sleightsburgh or contact the town government at 331-0676 for information. Town of Esopus Library Back on 9W, you’ll be heading south a couple of blocks into downtown Port Ewen. On your left, at the corner of East Main Street, you’ll pass the Esopus Library, whose proudest distinction is a collection of books, papers, artworks and memorabilia donated by Elizabeth Burroughs Kelley, granddaughter of the town’s most famous resident, naturalist John Burroughs. Items from the collection can be checked out by Mid-Hudson Library System cardholders. Library hours are 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Wednesdays and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Fridays. Weekend hours are currently 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays and 1 to 4 p.m. on Sundays, but it closes earlier during the summer. Call 338-5580 or visit www. esopuslibrary.org/jburr2.htm for information about the Burroughs Collection.

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley

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Esopus Meadows Point Preserve, Lighthouse Park Heading south a few miles, make a left onto River Road, where you’ll see signs for both the Esopus Meadows Point Preserve and Environmental Center, run jointly by Scenic Hudson and the Hudson River Sloop Clearwater, and for the municipal Lighthouse Park. A visit to either the 96-

acre preserve or the tiny riverside park will be rewarded with excellent views of Esopus Meadows Lighthouse. Built in 1871, the “Maid of the Meadows” is the only wood-framed, clapboard-exterior lighthouse on the Hudson River. While the lighthouse itself was open to the public last summer in spite

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of it being in the midst of extensive restoration, it’s accessible only by boat. In 2011, boat tours began running from both the Poughkeepsie Yacht Club and the Hudson River Maritime Museum in Kingston in May and continued into October. The Save the Esopus Lighthouse Commission’s website at www.esopusmeadowslighthouse.org had

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Louisa Pond on Shaupeneak Ridge not yet been updated to show the summer 2012 tour schedule, so keep checking the site. Considering how shallow the Hudson tidal flats are at this spot, it’s a wonder that you can’t wade out to the lighthouse. It’s said that the name Eso-

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plore, as well as two miles of Hudson River Greenway trails and an interpretive botanical trail. The preserve is open year-round daily, from dawn to dusk. The environmental center housing Clearwater’s Tideline Discovery Program is usually only open for prescheduled school and group programs. Visit www.scenichudson.org/parks/esopusmeadows for information. Klyne Esopus Museum Ready for an indoor respite? Head back south on River Road until it joins up with 9W again, and before long, heading south just past the El Paso Winery, you’ll spot an old red brick building with a cupola on your right. This former Dutch country church, built in 1827 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, houses the Klyne Esopus Historical Society Museum, which offers a variety of exhibits about the town’s culture, commerce and history. The museum opens for the season June 5 and will be open Fridays through Mondays from 1 to 4 p.m. Last year the big focus was on the Town of Esopus’ bicentennial; the museum website has not yet been updated with what we can expect in 2012, so keep checking www.klyneesopusmuseum.org. You can also find out more by calling 338-8109 Shaupeneak Ridge (plus Freedom Trail side excursion) Another thing that you will likely notice along the right-hand side of Route 9W by now is a highland known as Shaupeneak Ridge. The 790-acre wildlife conservation area owned by Scenic Hudson, the state Department of Environmental Conservation and the West Esopus Landowners’ Association is accessible via two parking areas. One is located at the foot of the ridge, not far from where Old Post Road turns off 9W, and the other atop it, which you reach by turning right onto Poppletown Road after Old Post Road reaches the crest of the hill. The lower section of Shaupeneak Ridge Coop-

April 12, 2012 Explore Hudson Valley erative Recreation Area boasts a lovely, shaded woodland trail that will lead you to a small waterfall. It’s a great place to seek ferns and mushrooms, tiny wildflowers and salamanders – and at least one geocache, if you’ve brought your GPS along. If more sunshine is what you’re looking for, the place to be is the shores of Louisa Pond, a glacial lake filled with water lilies, perched atop the ridge and accessible from the upper parking lot. This is a prime destination for environmental education outings for local schools, with easy trails that feature vistas of the valley below and lots of signs of beaver lodge and dam construction. Animal track identification is a popular wintertime activity. Shaupeneak is open year-round daily from dawn to dusk. There are currently six miles of trails in total, but expansion of the trail network is planned to take advantage of new parcels recently added to the preserve. Visit www.scenichudson. org/parks/shaupeneakridge for more. If you’re feeling adventurous enough to leave the 9W corridor for a while, continue on Poppletown Road, a/k/a the Sojourner Truth Freedom Trail, northwest towards Rifton. You’ll be retracing the great abolitionist and women’s rights advocate’s flight to freedom from slavery. A plaque on Route 213 near Sturgeon Pool marks her probable birthplace. Head south on 213 a little further if you want to add Perrine’s Bridge to your Esopus mustsee list. The restored 1844 structure is the only Burr arch truss covered bridge in New York State. Black Creek Preserve Another Scenic Hudson park has become a favorite spot for family outings in Esopus. The access

point to the 130-acre Black Creek Forest Preserve is on the left, at the intersection of 9W and Winding Brook Acres Road. The kids love the slightly bouncy suspension bridge across Black Creek that forms the starting point of any hike here; below it, millions of baby herring run in springtime. While steep in spots, the two-and-a-half miles of hiking trails crisscross in such a way that you can tailor your wanderings to the age and physical fitness of the members of your party. It’s easy to see why this park is favored for school outings. There’s lots of interpretive signage, and spring is an especially good time to check out the amphibious life forms taking shape in the vernal pools. You’ll also find out about the environmental threat to native hemlocks posed by a tiny insect called the woolly adelgid. My favorite trail here is the loop that ends up along a tiny, shale-shingled beach with a distant view of the Esopus Meadows Lighthouse. The shoreline is decorated with bright bits of red brick from the Hudson’s long-gone brickmaking days, worn smooth by the lapping of the water. Nearby boulders provide great perches to eat lunch while gazing out over the river. A detailed free trail map is downloadable at www.scenichudson.org/files/ u2/BlackCreek_webmap.jpg. Black Creek is open year-round daily from dawn to dusk. John Burroughs Sanctuary, Slabsides Beyond the Black Creek turnoff, again heading south on 9W, you will soon leave the Town of Esopus behind for the Town of Lloyd, better-known to locals as Highland. But you just can’t leave Esopus without first paying homage to the nineSPECIALIZING IN HARDWOOD FLOORING WIDE PLANK, PREFINISHED SOLID AND ENGINEERED / ANTIQUE RECLAIMED FLOORING / ANTIQUE FURNITURE / CABINET STOCK RECLAIMED HAND HEWN BEAMS CARPET - VINYL - LAMINATE - CORK - BAMBOO MARMOLEUM - CERAMIC TILE - SPECIALTY FLOORING

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teenth-century’s natural-history superstar, John Burroughs. His cabin, called Slabsides, is located on Burroughs Drive, just off Floyd Ackert Road, coming up on your right. This place of pilgrimage unfortunately opens its doors to the public only twice a year: from noon to 4:30 p.m., on the third Saturday in May and again on the first Saturday in October. Even when the doors are locked, you can stand on the porch and peer in the windows of the rustic structure that Burroughs built with his own hands in 1895 to serve as a writing retreat. Much of the handmade furniture inside remains intact as the author left it upon his death in 1921. Theodore Roosevelt, John Muir, Thomas Edison and Henry Ford were among the many guests who visited Burroughs here in their time. Surrounding Slabsides is the 192-acre John Burroughs Sanctuary. You can walk its trails any time of the year, visiting the bog where the great man tried to grow celery or exploring the woods where he drew inspiration for his famed nature essays. New trails have just been added over the past couple of years, so if you haven’t been here in a while it’s certainly worth a return visit. For a free map, visit the John Burroughs Association website. -Frances Marion Platt

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Saugerties

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Explore Hudson Valley Where to Guide Editorial MANAGING EDITOR:

Deb Alexsa Dan Barton, Brian Hollander, Geddy Sveikauskas LAYOUT: Will Dendis, Julie O’Connor DESIGN: Will Dendis AD PLACEMENT: Joe Morgan WRITERS: Dan Barton, Ann Hutton, Crispin Kott Carrie Ross Jones, Francis Marion Platt, Erin Quinn, Violet Snow PHOTOGRAPHY: Alan Carey, Will Dendis, Julie O’Connor, Dion Ogust, Lauren Thomas COPY EDITORS:

Ulster Publishing PUBLISHER:

Geddy Sveikauskas ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Dolores Giordano CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER: Joe Morgan ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Genia Wickwire ADVERTISING PROJECT MANAGER: Sue Rogers DISPLAY ADS: Lynn Coraza, Pam Courselle, Elizabeth K. W. Jackson, Ralph Longendyke, Linda Saccoman PRODUCTION MANAGER: Joe Morgan PRODUCTION: Karin Evans, Joan Richardson-Kwak CLASSIFIED ADS: Amy Murphy, Tobi Watson CIRCULATION: Dominic Labate Home Hudson Valley: Spring Home Improvement is an annual publication produced by Ulster Publishing. It is distributed in the company’s four weekly newspapers and separately at select locations, reaching an estimated readership of over 40,000. Its website is www.homehudsonvalley.com. For more info on upcoming special sections, including how to place an ad, call 845-334-8200, fax 845-334-8202 or go to www.ulsterpublishing.com.

Hudson River that’s accessible by land,” said lighthousekeeper Patrick Landewe. “It provides a unique perspective and is a quiet retreat. You’re surrounded by water, and it’s along a nature trail.” Due to both its age and its location, the Saugerties Lighthouse has a long and winding history, including a move to automation in the mid-1950s; the local push to save the building from demolition by the U.S. Coast Guard and eventual designation on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979; the formation of the Saugerties Lighthouse Conservancy in 1985; and a four-year renovation project which ended with the tower light’s restoration on August 4, 1990. The appeal of the historic structure extends well beyond the worldwide enthusiasts of lighthouses. And beyond its beauty and history it’s also more than just a little cool that you can actually stay there overnight. “We’re basically one of the few lighthouses on the Eastern Seaboard where you can stay over-

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night,” said Landewe. “For the bed-and-breakfast, most of our guests are coming from the greater Metro-area, Long Island and New York City, and some have come worldwide. Many of our day visitors are local.” The trail is only open during daylight hours. For more information, visit www.saugertieslighthouse.com. Retail shopping in Saugerties There’s no Main Street in the region more at the heart of the great American village than the retail thoroughfare in the middle of Saugerties. While Saugerties’ Main (and Partition) has less hustle than Fifth Avenue and less bustle than Saville Row, you’re liable to find everything you’re looking for with a comfortable down-home flair in Saugerties. For decades, Saugerties has cultivated a reputation as a destination for antiques shopping. While that remains true today, an influx of trendy boutiques, new and used bookshops and other niche retail shops have resulted in Saugerties being named one of America’s Coolest Small Towns in the September 2009 issue of Budget Travel Magazine. “I once overheard a customer say that she felt like she was at home in the English countryside,” said Daisy Bolle, co-owner of Dig, a hip boutique popular with locals and tourists alike. “Saugerties has that quaint European feeling to it that is unique to the Hudson Valley.” If you want a sense of just how unique Saugerties really is, try to name another small town in New York where two chocolate shops can not only survive but also thrive. In the village, you can shop for shoes and bicycles, jewelry and crafts, along charming sidewalks that personify the classic small town experience. “I love shopping in Saugerties because of all the small businesses,” said Bolle. “You know that everything was hand-picked by somebody, and you

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…an inﬂux of trendy boutiques, new and used bookshops and other niche retail shops have resulted in Saugerties being named one of America’s Coolest Small Towns in the September 2009 issue of Budget Travel Magazine. can hear a story of why it is so special. People love their little towns and are really starting to understand how important it is to support them.” HITS Since its inaugural season in 2004, Horse Shows in the Sun (HITS) has been an integral part of the Saugerties landscape. The equestrian center continues to grow by leaps and bounds. Spring is the first opportunity for horses and riders to strut their stuff. Though all eyes are on the HITS championship weekend in September, activity begins with the first week 0of qualifying events in late May. Even before that happens, the vast HITS complex will be astir with herculean preparations for the arrival of competitors and spectators. The network of HITS employees, many of whom spend the winter months at the company’s other shows across the country, will be busy with preparations. “When spring arrives in the Hudson Valley, it means everyone is going to come together at our headquarters in Saugerties for what is the biggest horse show in the Northeast,” said Danette Kadlic, HITS spokesperson. “This summer in Saugerties there are going to be more horses showing than anywhere else in the United States.” In addition to new classes and divisions, HITS will offer 14 qualifying events for the 2012 Pfizer Million Grand Prix. The season’s final weekend will also see $500,000 and $250,000 hunter class competitions. As a purely spectator endeavor, the events at HITS are symbolic of the grace and majesty of the equine form and the relationship between horse and rider. Kadlic said it often seems as though horse racing is more familiar to people than jumping or dressage. “When people come and see what these horses and riders are doing, it’s pretty awe-inspiring,” she said. “If you appreciate the sport, you’re going to see some of the best up-and-coming riders in the United States, and you’re going to see some of the best professional riders competing as well.” HITS opens its 2012 season on Wednesday,

May 23 and runs for three consecutive weeks before returning to local action in mid-July. During the year, HITS hosts special events like Taste of HITS-on-the-Hudson and Kids’ Day. For information visit www.hitsshows.com. Communing with nature Nestled in the foothills of the Catskill Mountains and skirting the Hudson River, Saugerties offers ample options for those who feel the springtime is the right time for communing with nature. From hiking trails to kayaking on the Hudson River, Saugerties is a destination for anyone wanting to truly feel as though they can get away from it all. The 161-acre Esopus Bend Nature Preserve was opened nearly a decade ago. It’s a sprawling testament to the majesty of nature literally in Saugerties’ own back yard. The preserve, embraced by the winding Esopus Creek, features four major trails, with a few trail spurs which lead directly to the shores of the Esopus. Access wetlands and beaver dams, waterfalls and in Shady Glen – along the lowest point of the Schroeder Trail Loop – possibly the naturally coolest spot in all of Saugerties. The entrance to the Esopus Bend Nature Preserve is located on Shady Lane in Barclay Heights. For more information visit www.esopuscreekconservancy.org. Esopus Creek Conservancy recently joined with Scenic Hudson and the Dominican Sisters of

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Sparkill to open to the public the Falling Waters Preserve, a 192-acre property abutting the Hudson River. The land, owned by the Dominican Sisters, was made available to the general public in the spirit of St. Francis of Assisi, patron saint of animals and the environment. Falling Waters’ 2.4-mile loop takes nature lovers and birdwatchers through a wooded path and a hayfield, with spurs leading off to the Hudson and a pair of waterfalls from which the preserve draws its name. The preserve is located on Dominican Lane in Glasco. For information visit www.esopuscreekconservancy.org. Falling Waters is accessible along the Hudson by kayak, with boat launch access from the Glasco mini park, and for more adventurous paddlers, the George Terpening Memorial Park in Malden and the Tivoli waterfront, directly across the Hudson. Kayaking in Saugerties isn’t exclusive to the Hudson River. The Esopus Creek is routinely used for kayaks and canoes setting out from the Saugerties village beach. -Crispin Kott

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