Ultimate Ideas | Spring/Summer 2015 by The Ultimate Travel Company

U LT I M AT E IDEAS I N S P I R A T I O N F R O M T H E U L T I M A T E T R AV E L C O M P A N Y

GO MOBILE IN BOTSWANA A T E N T E D S A FA R I T H R O U G H S AV U T I A N D T H E O K AVA N G O D E LTA

HIGHLIGHTS OF INDONESIA THE DEFINITIVE M U S T- D O L I S T F O R THE ARCHIPELAGO

WILD STYLE IN CANADA W H E R E L U X U RY A N D LEISURE MEET THE G R E AT O U T D O O R S

TOP 10 HONEYMOON D E S T I N AT I O N S A N E A R LY- W E D S ’ G U I D E T O S TA R T I N G MARRIED LIFE IN STYLE

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE EMBARK ON THE JOURNEY OF A LIFETIME T O T H E G A L A PA G O S I S L A N D S

THE SPIRIT OF TURIN INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS INTRODUCING CHILE

T H E U L T I M AT E T R AV E L EXPERIENCE TA I L O R - M A D E L U X U R Y T R AV E L C R E AT E D E X C L U S I V E LY F O R Y O U . If you can imagine yourself on an expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula, on a trek to the ancient kingdom of Bhutan, or on a safari across the Okavango Delta, we can make it a reality in 2015 and beyond with our Tailor-Made Experiences. S P E A K T O O N E O F O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S T O D AY +44 (0)20 3740 1478

T H E U L T I M AT E T R AV E L AGENCY ESSENTIAL BREAKS SELECTED AND PLANNED FOR ALL OCCASIONS. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing short break or a hassle-free family getaway to the beaches of the Caribbean, we can organise every last detail. All you’ll need to do is choose the location. S P E A K T O O N E O F O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S T O D AY +44 (0)20 3740 1478

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U LT I M AT E I D E A S The Ultimate Travel Company 25–27 Vanston Place London SW6 1AZ T: +44 (0)20 7386 4646 E: enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk Advertising enquiries enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk

TA N I A I L L I N G W O R T H

NEIL DUNHAM

Tania Illingworth (née Tolstoy) is three quarters Russian by birth, her grandparents having fled the Russian Revolution in 1918. A degree in Russian Language and Literature, with Byzantine Art, has reinforced her passionate interest in all things Russian. Tania has led tours successfully for over 20 years, mainly to St Petersburg, but also to Moscow and Kiev. She previews her one-off tour to rural Russia in ‘A Russian Revelation’ on p13.

Neil Dunham, one of our Asia specialists, graduated with a degree in geography before heading to Asia for the first time in 2001. He has since returned on many trips, further exploring and expanding his knowledge of the continent. A keen watersports enthusiast, he is most at home diving the reefs of Indonesia and riding the waves of Sri Lanka. He selects his highlights of the world’s largest archipelago in ‘Focus on Indonesia’ on p42.

Reader enquiries enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk

Ultimate Ideas is produced for The Ultimate Travel Company by Spinach Publishing Zetland House 5–25 Scrutton Street London EC2A 4HJ T: +44 (0)20 7739 2777 F: +44 (0)20 7739 2444 E: info@spinachpublishing.com www.spinachpublishing.com

JANE ANDERSON

GRAHAM BOYNTON

Jane Anderson is an award-winning travel writer who has spent many years researching and writing about honeymoon destinations. Jane was travel editor at You & Your Wedding magazine for 10 years and regularly writes for leading newspapers and magazines, including The Sunday Times Travel Magazine and Elle. She is also author of A Place to Wed, a book about getting married abroad. She shares her top 10 honeymoon destinations on p57.

Graham Boynton has been a newspaper and magazine journalist for more than 30 years. He has covered a range of subjects – from politics and the arts to travel and sport – and written for numerous newspapers, including The Daily Telegraph, Financial Times and the Washington Post. For this issue he ate his way around Australia for a month. Read about his enlightening (though not very ‘lightening’) experience on p34.

C O N T R I B U T O R S

HAPPY NEW YEAR! AND WELCOME TO THE SECOND EDITION O F O U R N E W - L O O K U LT I M AT E I D E A S . As you will see from the map overleaf and the pages that follow, we have truly covered the world and had a lot of fun choosing places to feature. So with the turkey now soup, the pine needles swept up and those Christmas sweaters changed for a different colour (or perhaps a bigger size...), maybe it’s time to start thinking about the outside world again. Along with all the latest insights and advice from our team of travel consultants, we’ve enlisted the help of friends and experts to give us the lowdown on honeymoon hot spots, a gastronomic revolution Down Under, an exclusive tour to the Russian North and a rare exposition of the Turin Shroud. There’s something here to whet all appetites. I might even be able to tempt you to join me on a classic safari in Zimbabwe next September or perhaps an expedition to Antarctica in early 2016. Whatever the next few months may hold, I do hope you enjoy the read and shall look forward to catching up with you soon.

N I C K VA N G R U I S E N MANAGING DIRECTOR

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

CONTENTS From the best hidden-away hotels and honeymoon locations to exhilarating treks, safaris and expeditions, we’ve travelled the world to bring you this issue of Ultimate Ideas.

Wild Style in Canada ‘One of the prime spots in the world for seeing bears, both brown and grizzly, as well as orcas and seals.’

T H E F E AT U R E S 19 Introducing Chile Frequently asked questions and answers about one of Latin America’s most distinct and self-contained countries. 22 Discover the British Virgin Islands Blessed by nature, beloved by billionaires, the BVIs are on our hotlist for 2015.

The Ultimate American Road Trip ‘ The route from San Francisco to LA encompasses one of the planet’s most scenic highways.’

26 Peru: From the Andes to the Amazon aul Webb embarks on an epic journey P from Lima to the Peruvian Amazon. 30 Galapagos Islands, Ahoy! ake the trip of a lifetime to the islands T that inspired evolutionary thinking. 34 A New Taste of Australia Travel writer Graham Boynton meets exciting new tastemakers Down Under.

38 The Ultimate American Road Trip Bridge & Wickers director David Wickers hits the highways of southwest USA.

42 Focus on Indonesia Asia specialist Neil Dunham shares his top travel tips around the archipelago. 46 Wild Style in Canada We find the places where luxury and the great outdoors go hand in hand. 57 Top 10 Honeymoon Sweet Spots Condé Nast Traveller’s honeymoon guru Jane Anderson shares her secrets. 62 From the Maasai Mara to the Virungas TUTC director Rowan Paterson tracks wildebeest and gorillas in Kenya and Rwanda. 67 Go Mobile in Botswana A unique mobile safari through Savuti and the Okavango Delta. 70 Indian Ocean Escapes Wash away the world (or dust-off after a safari) on an Indian Ocean island retreat.

CONTENTS

Galapagos Islands, Ahoy! ‘You really do need to see several islands on the one trip, as each is unique.’

Peru: From the Andes to the Amazon ‘Everything in Peru, in some ways, seems to be a peak; the colours are almost unbelievable.’

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Indian Ocean Escapes ‘A hundred of the most beautiful islands in the world lie scattered across the Indian Ocean.’

From the Maasai Mara to the Virungas ‘It’s tough going at times, but is likely to be one of the most rewarding efforts you’ll ever make.’

Focus on Indonesia ‘There is simply no better way to explore some of Indonesia’s 13,466 islands than on a traditional phinisi.’

A New Taste of Australia ‘Forget all the old clichés: there’s more to Australian food than tossing shrimps on a barbie.’

62 42 70 67

PLUS

Go Mobile in Botswana ‘Bush walks and mokoro rides here will allow you to experience the magic of this wetland paradise.’

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09 The Best of Both Worlds We find a few luxury hotels offering the perfect balance between city and tranquillity.

74 The Ultimate Challenge We catch up with ex-Wales rugby captain Mike Hall and talk about his latest charity trek.

12 Escorted Journeys Our pick of 2015/16 tours led by TUTC directors and a host of expert guides and lecturers.

76 Notice Board All the latest travel news, hotel openings, reviews and charitable goings on at TUTC.

54 The Ultimate Selection Our team of travel experts choose their favourite destinations from around the world.

CONTENTS

HOTELS: THE BEST OF B OT H WO R L D S F R O M S E C L U D E D V I N E YA R D S T O A R T I S T I C H I L L S I D E R E T R E AT S , W E ’ V E F O U N D A F E W S T U N N I N G L U X U RY H O T E L S T H AT A R E A S T O N E ’ S T H R O W F R O M G R E AT C I T I E S , B U T FA R E N O U G H A W AY T O A F F O R D A R E L A X I N G E S C A P E .

The Royal Palm, Marrakech

C E L L A R S - H O H E N O R T, C A P E T O W N

LE MAS CANDILLE, MOUGINS

The Cape vineyards on the outskirts of the city feature on most visitors’ wish list – but why not reverse the balance and use them as a place to roost? You can then return to lush greenery and tranquillity from visiting the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, climbing Table Mountain and exploring Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was infamously incarcerated.

Once you’ve paced Nice’s Promenade des Anglais and the Cannes Croisette, cruised the shops and visited the many museums (including the excellent Picasso museum in Antibes), then head for the hills. Indeed, you could do a lot worse than Picasso’s old hideaway of Mougins and Le Mas Candille, a restored 18th-century olive farm that is a 20-minute taxi ride from Nice Airport, making it perfect for a short break.

One highly recommended bolthole is the Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia, a Relais & Châteaux property on the slopes of Table Mountain and just a 20-minute ride from the Waterfront. This century-old Cape Dutch homestead also boasts one of South Africa’s top restaurants. BELMOND VILLA SAN MICHELE, FLORENCE After a heady round of Florence’s Renaissance art treasures, head for the hills and the Belmond Villa San Michele, a 15th-century monastery with a facade attributed to Michelangelo that is now one of the finest hotels in Italy. Perched on high ground in the lee of the small hilltop town of Fiesole, you can dine here on the loggia terrace, with the distant dome of the city’s iconic Basilica lighting up the night sky. The hotel also has a delightful pool, the perfect spot for recuperating from gallery fatigue.

This gorgeous retreat lies hidden away amidst eight acres of beautifully landscaped parkland and olive groves, with 45 very pretty rooms, two pools, a Michelin-starred restaurant and Europe’s first Shiseido spa. The medieval village of Mougins also has a particularly interesting museum devoted to ancient sculptures, as well as classically inspired modern works by Chagall, Gormley and Hirst among others.

‘ Dine on the loggia terrace at the Belmond San Michele overlooking the dome of Florence’s iconic Basilica.’

This page 1. Cellars-Hohenort, Cape Town 2. B elmond Villa San Michele, Florence 3. Le Mas Candille, Nice

HOTELS

Opposite 4. Belmond Cipriani, Venice 5. Ciragan Palace, Istanbul

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BELMOND CIPRIANI, VENICE

There’s no actual countryside within easy reach, but the Belmond Cipriani feels utterly removed from the crowds that pay homage to Europe’s most beautiful city. It also happens to be where George Clooney chose to spend his final days as a bachelor. The hotel stands on the eastern tip of Giudecca, across the water from the Doge’s Palace, and runs a complimentary 24-hour motor-launch service to a private jetty on the edge of St Mark’s Square, where rows of gondolas nod gently in the swell. The only downside is that the ‘Cip’ closes most years from mid-November to mid-March.

‘ The Cipriani feels utterly removed from the crowds that pay homage to Venice – Europe’s most beautiful city.’ C I R A G A N PA L A C E , I S TA N B U L

R O YA L PA L M , M A R R A K E C H

If you want a little peace and quiet in this culturally exotic but frenetically paced city, it makes sense to stay in one of the converted Ottoman palaces on the banks of the Bosphorus.

The big issue is whether to stay in the heart of town, ideally in a traditional riad close to the souk and the main Djemaa el-Fna square, or to make forays into Marrakech’s madcap medieval world from a secluded oasis on the outskirts.

One is the Ciragan Palace, a Kempinski hotel, where most rooms have views of boats plying the busy artery of water that connects the Med with the Black Sea. Or for an equally luxurious experience, try the Four Seasons, also right on the water. Both have stunning pools – indoor and outdoor – as well as spas with hammams.

( PHOTO ON P9)

At the Royal Palm, Marrakech, for example (the sister hotel of its Mauritian namesake), you can play golf, swim in a pool that seems to go on forever, indulge yourself at its new spa and dine in a choice of restaurants with the snow-capped mountains of the High Atlas dancing attendance to the south.

FIND OUT MORE S P E A K T O O N E O F O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S +44 (0)20 3740 1478

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HOTELS

E S C O RT E D JOURNEYS O V E R T H E N E X T F E W PA G E S W E I N V I T E Y O U O N A S E L E C T I O N O F E X C E P T I O N A L E S C O R T E D T O U R S L E D B Y O U R D E S T I N AT I O N E X P E RT S A N D O U R V E RY O W N D I R E C T O R S .

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A RU S S I A N R E V E L AT I O N T O U R L E A D E R TA N I A I L L I N G W O R T H ( N É E T O L S T O Y ) I S U N D E R S TA N D A B LY PA S S I O N AT E A N D K N O W L E D G E A B L E A B O U T ALL THINGS RUSSIAN. THIS SPRING, SHE LEADS A REVEALING T O U R A R O U N D T H E C O U N T R Y ’ S E N I G M AT I C N O R T H . Tania Illingworth (née Tolstoy) is three quarters Russian by birth, her grandparents having fled the Russian Revolution in 1918. Tania has led tours successfully for over 20 years, mainly to St Petersburg, but also to Moscow and Kiev.

Prior to the foundation of St Petersburg in 1703, which gave Russia the outlet to Europe, great cities, towns and monasteries were built along the waterways such as Vologda, Belozersk, Kargopol, Solovki and Archangel. All became significant trading centres during the 16th and 17th centuries.

Far from the gilt of St Petersburg, in the depths of the Russian countryside, is a world of vast forests, lakes and ancient towns lining rivers that were once vital commercial arteries. Far from the beaten tourist track, the tour has been personally designed by Tania to offer a rare glimpse into a timeless Russia where local traditions and crafts are still preserved and hospitality from the villagers is genuine.

Strategically situated on the ancient river route between Moscow and Arkhangelskoye, these towns prospered mainly on salt and timber. The English traded with the Russian North and, in exchange for cotton textiles, wool, arms, tin, lead, paper and wine, bought flax, fish, furs, wood (for masts), honey and beeswax. Kargopol and Vologda were only accessible by boat until the late 19th century, when the railways finally linked the cities.

Few parts of Russia have remained architecturally intact from the devastations of the Russian Civil War and subsequent World Wars. It is fortunate, then, for Russia’s cultural heritage that the North East was untouched by these events, nor indeed damaged by industrialisation during the Soviet era (1917–1989). Opposite 1. The belfry of St Sophia Cathedral, Vologda This page 2. Cathedral of Nativity of the Virgin, Vologda 3. Ferapontov Monastery in Vologda 2

Economic activity in the Russian North effectively ceased after the founding of St Petersburg and, with the Baltic being ice-free for much of the year, the river routes soon became obsolete. By the early 19th century, even the trading routes along the Onega River to the White Sea had lost their significance, and Vologda no longer monopolised the salt and timber trades.

We travel by train to Vologda and Kargopol, both still very picturesque, with fleets of white-stone cathedrals and kremlins bearing witness to the former prosperity of the North. Vologda itself is an absolute gem, with some of its original wooden (unpaved!) roads and many handsome, highly decorated merchant houses still beautifully preserved. We will also visit the Ferapontov Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the north of the city and renowned for its beautiful 14th-century Dionysius frescoes. And if that is not enough to whet your appetite, there is the added bonus of an excursion by hydrofoil to Peter the Great’s dramatic Palace overlooking the Gulf of Finland and to Catherine the Great’s unique ‘Chinese Palace’. The latter can only be visited during the summer months. T O U R D E TA I L S Dates: 29 May – 5 June 2015 Price: £3,615 per person Single supplement: £550 Contact: Sophie Pullan

EXPERIENCE 3

‘RURAL R U S S I A’ £3,615 PER PERSON

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T H E D I R E C TO R S ’ SELECTION J O I N T H E U LT I M AT E T R AV E L C O M PA N Y ’ S D I R E C T O R S AS THEY LEAD A SELECTION OF EXCLUSIVE JOURNEYS T O S O M E O F T H E M O S T FA S C I N AT I N G A N D R E M O T E D E S T I N AT I O N S O N E A R T H .

C L A S S I C S A FA R I I N Z I M B A B W E 1 – 15 September 2015 With Nick Van Gruisen and Graham Boynton Back in the 1990s, Zimbabwe was Africa’s most popular safari destination – by far! Twenty years on, and with the welldocumented problems that afflicted this wonderful country now receding into the past, I really believe there has never been a better time to visit. Our two-week safari will take us south to Victoria Falls, Hwange, the Matopos and Gonarezhou, Zimbabwe’s fabled lowveld wilderness. Along the way we will meet some of the country’s leading conservationists, as well as local luminaries, who will have the answers to all your questions, be they wildlife, cultural or political!

We will be accompanied by Graham Boynton, former Group Travel Editor at Telegraph Media, who grew up in Bulawayo and continues to write about Zimbabwe. His deep-rooted knowledge of the country will add immeasurably to what we take from the trip. The safari will be limited to a maximum of 18 guests and we have exclusive use of all three camps, making for a very private and personal experience. Back in the 1970s I led safaris in Rhodesia – as it was then. I am thrilled to have the opportunity to return after so many years, and I very much hope you can join me.

‘ U LT I M AT E I N V I TAT I O N TO ZIMBABWE’ FROM £5,579 PER PERSON

SHACKLETON’S A N TA R C T I C A 28 January – 20 February 2016 With Nick and Iris Van Gruisen and Martin Thompson In 2016, 100 years will have passed since Sir Ernest Shackleton rescued the crew of Endurance from Elephant Island. It therefore seemed fitting to celebrate the anniversary with an expedition of our own, not only to experience the dramatic beauty and solitude of Antarctica, but also to understand more about this iconic event in British polar exploration history. Our 18-night cruise aboard the Polar research vessel Akademik Ioffe will take us from Ushuaia to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, Elephant Island (weather permitting) and the Antarctic Peninsula, before returning across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia. To bring the Shackleton story alive, we are very fortunate to have Henry Worsley as our guest lecturer. Henry is the only person to have retraced the original Antarctic routes of Shackleton’s 1907 Nimrod expedition and the subsequent ones undertaken by Captain Scott and Roald Amundsen. Also with us will be Roddie Wordie, whose grandfather James was a geologist aboard Endurance. To add a further dimension to our experience, both Henry and Roddie will be bringing Shackleton memorabilia, including extracts of James Wordie’s unedited and unpublished diaries. Although the trip is proving to be very popular, there are still a few cabins available. We would love you to fill them!

A D V E N T U R E I N N E PA L

T H E R O A D T O M A N D A L AY

21 November – 3 December 2015 With Rowan Paterson

11 – 26 September 2016 With Nick and Iris Van Gruisen and Chris and Carolyn Caldicott

The Nepal Himalaya is where I cut my teeth in the travel industry back in 1983, and every visit since has always been very special. This latest adventure promises to be no different. We begin with two days to explore the fascinating cultural and artistic heritage of Kathmandu in the company of the city’s foremost restoration experts, before flying west to the lakeside town of Pokhara for a leisurely five-day trek in the Annapurna foothills. Only on foot can you really discover the true personality of this mountainous kingdom, and if you were worried about camping, then please don’t be: we will be staying in comfortable lodges where warm beds, hot showers and flushing loos, offering the perfect antidote to a day’s trekking. We then take to inflatable rafts for a twoday journey through the verdant beauty of Nepal’s middle down to the lowland jungles of the Terai. The night is spent at the lovely Seti Camp, and any rapids en route are short, small and very enjoyable. The adventure ends with two nights at a wildlife lodge on the edge of the Royal Chitwan National Park, where a varied menu of activities includes elephant-back safaris into the reserve in search of the Indian one-horned rhinoceros. Tour price: £3,675 per person

Tour price: from £9,445 per person

Following the unqualified success of previous trips to Burma in 2007, 2009 and 2013 we have decided to repeat this magical journey in September 2016. The tour provides a unique opportunity to explore this magnificent country on one of the world’s great river journeys along the famed Irrawaddy River. Following a two-night stay in Yangon, our adventure begins in earnest when we board Belmond’s (formerly Orient Express) river vessel, Road To Mandalay, which we have chartered exclusively for an 11-day cruise into northern Burma. It is the perfect setting for our tour, offering beautifully appointed accommodation and a range of excellent facilities. As we cruise along we will discover a natural and cultural landscape little changed since Kipling’s day, from the jungle-clad gorges that dominate the upper reaches of the river to the market scenes of Katha from George Orwell’s Burmese Days, and the ancient capital of Mandalay immortalised by Kipling’s eponymous poem. For many the high point of the cruise will be the 3,000 temple ruins spread across the great plain of Bagan, but for everyone on board the overwhelming impression will be of a land and a people unchanged by time. We will be accompanied by photojournalist Chris Caldicott and his wife Carolyn. With his help your photographic record of Myanmar should convey just how very special this magical country is. Tour price: from £4,795 per person

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NEW ZEALAND I N C O M PA N Y E X P L O R I N G D E S T I N AT I O N S I N T H E C O M PA N Y O F O T H E R S C A N B E A R I C H LY R E W A R D I N G W AY T O T R AV E L . B U T O N LY I F T H E N U M B E R S A R E R I G H T …

Some people prefer to explore a destination independently, following a pre-arranged itinerary with accommodation, car hire and other elements pre-booked. Others (including many single travellers) prefer to explore in the company of others and be escorted by a professional guide with a depth of knowledge that is second to none. But that doesn’t necessarily mean being lumped together in an enormous group, staying in run-of-the-mill three-star hotels and travelling from start to finish in the same vehicle. Here, we show just some of the variations in the concept of an ‘escorted journey’ that New Zealand can offer.

ROAD OR RAIL?

On our 19-day tour – which starts in Auckland and finishes in Christchurch – in addition to your super-smart coach you’ll travel on four very different railways: the Glenbrook Vintage near Auckland; the Coastal Pacific, which runs between mountain and sea via the whale-viewing centre of Kaikoura; the Taieri Gorge near Dunedin; and the TranzAlpine, connecting Greymouth with Christchurch. This final trip is one of the greatest train journeys in the world, crossing massive viaducts and bridging spectacular gorges as it winds its way up to Arthur’s Pass on the spine of the Southern Alps. 19-day tour Regular year-round departures Price: from £3,450* per person

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LAND AND SEA? Around 1.8 million Brits will choose to cruise in 2015, so it’s hardly surprising that many will be looking for tours that include some time at sea. We can offer the perfect marriage of land and sea, a breathtaking 29-day journey that combines the very best of New Zealand’s North and South Islands with a cruise aboard the luxurious Celebrity Solstice. Boarding in Auckland, you first explore the Bay of Islands, Dunedin and the dramatic fjords of Milford Sound before crossing the Tasman Sea to Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and finally Fremantle. S I N G L E S O N LY ? Then join one of our exclusive departures with guaranteed single rooms for all. You can choose either an 11-day tour of South Island in a small group of up to 20, or a 16-day tour of both North and South Islands in a larger group of up to 48 passengers. 11-day tour 30 December 2015 – 9 January 2016 Price: from £4,075* per person 16-day tour 25 October – 9 November 2015 6 – 21 November 2015 11 – 26 March 2016 Price: from £3,425* per person

DON’T LIKE CROWDS? Then choose a dedicated ‘small group’ tour, travelling in a brand-new coach that would normally carry 48 passengers but has been reconfigured with just 20 fully reclining leather seats akin to those you might find at the sharp end of an aircraft. Each coach has a galley with a fridge for storing drinks, a USB point at every seat for charging cameras and phones, and a state-of-the-art entertainment system just in case you get bored of the staggering scenery. Overnight accommodation is similarly luxurious.

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We can also offer a shorter 23-day journey, which combines an 11-day coach tour and a 12-day cruise aboard Celebrity Solstice in New Zealand alone. 23-day tour 2 – 24 November 2015 4 – 26 November 2015 6 – 28 December 2015 2 – 24 February 2016 Price: from £4,445* per person WHEN TO GO

There are regular departures throughout the year, ranging from a 10-day tour of South Island to a more comprehensive 19-day journey through both North and South Islands. 10-day tour Price: from £2,670* per person

Opposite 1. Lion Rock, Piha Beach, Auckland region 2. Auckland Harbour This page 3. Wanaka, Otago region 4. Mitre Peak, Milford Sound

29-day tour 4 February – 3 March 2016 Price: from £5,165* per person

16-day tour Price: from £4,160* per person 19-day tour Price: from £4,750* per person

The weather is at its best in New Zealand from October (their spring) to April (their autumn). HOW TO GO Bridge & Wickers works in partnership with the local family run outfit Grand Pacific Tours, which specialises exclusively in New Zealand and runs all the tours featured above. *All prices quoted in this article exclude international flights.

ESCORTED JOURNEYS

THE SPIRIT OF TURIN A R A R E O P P O R T U N I T Y T O V I E W T H E H O LY S H R O U D I N T H E C O M PA N Y O F T O U R L E A D E R G I L L I A N C R A I G A N D HISTORIAN AND LECTURER PETER LAURITZEN. Peter Lauritzen American historian, author and lecturer Peter Lauritzen has lived in Italy since 1962. A resident of Venice, he has written a number of books on the city and accompanied royalty on visits. He has also lectured and led tours specialising in Flemish art, Byzantium, Imperial Russia, Iberia and the Holy Roman Empire.

Think Turin and most people automatically think industry. The city that put the T in Fiat (Fabbrica Italiano Automobile Torino) was the dynamo of the Italy economy. But this industrial titan is no Detroit, let alone Dagenham. Turin is a city misura d’uomo, meaning liveable and user-friendly: less frenetic than Rome or Milan, and with most of the highlights in its 18th-century walkable heart, it’s a world of grand boulevards and elegant squares, arcaded streets and baroque palaces, plus a good stock of museums, historic cafes, parks and rivers. It is also the birthplace of Vermouth, Italy’s first parliament, chocolate, the breadstick and Juventus.

‘TURIN: THE EXCEPTIONAL EXPOSITION O F T H E H O LY SHROUD’

Need more for a weekend? Well, there is more. This year offers the exceptional opportunity to view the Holy Shroud in the Cathedral, believed by millions to be the linen cloth that wrapped the crucified body of Christ. Last seen in 2010, the Shroud will be on view between 19 April and 24 June and will be the special highlight of our escorted journey to Turin. Italy’s first capital is also one of its most handsome. Much of what you see today was created in its Golden Age, when the ruling dynasty, the Savoyards, flashed and flaunted their imperial prowess with Europe’s finest baroque architecture. Landmarks include Gaurini’s extraordinary Church of San Lorenzo and the great hunting lodge of Stupinigi on the outskirts of the city, while further afield lie the beautiful Basilica of Superga and the vast royal estate of La Veneria Reale.

Turin also does museums like few other Italian cities, with such gems as the Royal Palace, Palazzo Madama and Galleria Sabauda containing a wealth of the finest European art. And then there’s the Piedmont cuisine. It is a wonder how any Turinese survives the region’s excesses of irresistible food (and wine), and you will be none the wiser after a succession of outstanding meals at variously the Villa Il Torrione in Pinerolo, a local trattoria in the hills of Superga, and one or two of the historic cafés in Turin itself. Tour details Dates: 14 – 17 May 2015 Price: £1,530 per person Single supplement: £280 Contact: Verity

This page 1. Palazzo Madama 2. The Turin Shroud 3. Church of San Lorenzo 4. Piedmont cheeses 2

£1,530 PER PERSON

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I N T RO D U C I N G

CHILE

W E A N S W E R S O M E F R E Q U E N T LY A S K E D Q U E S T I O N S A B O U T O N E O F L AT I N A M E R I C Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M O S T D I S T I N C T A N D S E L F - C O N TA I N E D C O U N T R I E S .

Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia

CHILE Q&A I’ve always wanted to go, but being such a long, thin ribbon of a country, it seems rather daunting. Should I simply stick to one particular region? True, Chile is not only 2,600 miles long, as far as Scotland is from Senegal, but two of the country’s main highlights happen to be at its top and its tail. However, domestic flights are frequent, reliable and easy to arrange. When is the best time to visit? Being in the Southern Hemisphere, Chile is at its weather best in our winter (unless, of course, you’re a ski addict and can’t manage a year without). Where do I start? Santiago is both the capital and the gateway for international flights. We recommend you stop over for a couple of days with a visit to one of the nearby wineries in the shadow of the Andes to help you unwind after the long flight. If you want to stay the night, then try La Casona, a delightful little hotel at the heart of the Matetic Vineyards. From Santiago, should I go north or south? The quick and easy answer is both. The north is home to the amazing lunar-like landscapes of the Atacama Desert (best seen in the aptly named Valley of the Moon), the driest region on the planet, where mighty geysers fire salvoes into the air on the high plains of El Tatio. The local Indian villages of whitewashed adobe dwellings, some with museums that preserve relics of pre-Columbian cultures, are also fascinating, as are the salt flats and the incredible night skies.

Try to spend at least three nights in the Atacama, based around the oasis of San Pedro, at either the hacienda-style Explora, Alto or Tierra. All three properties offer a number of exciting excursions, including a cross-border foray onto neighbouring Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni. And the south? Essential! Patagonia is a complete contrast to the Atacama, the amazing topography here in Chile’s ‘deep south’ topped by the iconic granite spires and 1,000-year-old glaciers of the Torres del Paine National Park. You will need to fly to Punta Arenas then drive for five hours across rolling pampa to reach Paine, but once within the park’s boundaries you can explore its awesome dimensions on foot, horseback and mountain bike from a select number of exclusive properties. Best of these are Explora, Tierra and Awasi, or there is the Patagonia Camp for a luxury tented experience.

Some of the flights from Santiago to Punta Arenas touch down in Puerto Montt, so break the journey if you have the time and drive to the town of Puerto Varas in the heart of Chile’s Lake District. There are dense forests to explore and snowcapped volcanoes to climb, as well as the islands of the nearby Chiloé archipelago for an insight into the unique folklore of the country’s largest ethnic group, the Mapuches, and encounters with the occasional sorcerer! Tierra has recently opened up a property here.

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‘ U LT I M AT E CHILE’ FROM £5,275 PER PERSON

C H I L E

This page 1. Santiago in the shadow of the Andes 2. Salt lagoon in neighbouring Bolivia 3. Explora Hotel, Atacama 4. Church in the village of San Pedro de Atacama Opposite 5. The iconic Easter Island moais 6. Torres del Paine National Park

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PERU BOLIVIA Salar de Uyuni El Tatio

Ataca m

a De s ert

San Pedro

You can also cruise to Punta Arenas on one of the Australis boats from the Argentine port of Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego, a three- or four-night journey that takes you through the Beagle Channel to Cape Horn (not around it, thankfully!) and the Chilean fjords.

Santiago

You haven’t mentioned Easter Island. Isn’t it part of Chile? Yes. Although the island is often shown on maps as lying just offshore, it is actually a five-hour flight away – as far out in the Pacific as the entire length of Chile – so you need to be a serious ‘head hunter’ to justify the trip. However, it is a truly unique destination and there is an excellent Explora hotel if you do decide to go.

BRAZIL

CHILE

Should I allow for a few days on the beach? Although Vina del Mar is a popular bolthole for Santiago residents, the beach is a poor cousin compared with, say, those of the Caribbean, and the water is rather chilly. The nearby historic port of Valparaiso, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is worth a visit, but if you really want a few indulgent days beside the sea, then consider breaking your journey home in either Brazil or Miami, for example.

Puerto Montt

PRICES/ITINERARY

‘ Easter Island is a must-see. But as it’s a five-hour flight from mainland Chile, it’s only a trip for serious head hunters.’

A 16-night ‘Ultimate Chile’ itinerary, visiting Santiago, San Pedro de Atacama, Puerto Varas, Torres del Paine National Park and the Matetic Vineyards, costs from £5,275 per person including flights.

Torres del Paine National Park

Punta Arenas

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CHILE

Virgin Gorda

D I S C OV E R T H E B R I T I S H V I RG I N ISLANDS B L E S S E D B Y N AT U R E A N D B E L O V E D B Y B I L L I O N A I R E S , THE BVIs PUNCH WELL ABOVE THEIR WEIGHT IN THE CARIBBEAN-ISLAND CLASS. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO GETTING THE BEST OUT OF THESE KNOCKOUT LITTLE ISLANDS.

Scattered over miles of incomparably blue sea, the Virgin Islands are a sight to behold. Steep and lush from their peaks to their beaches, this collection of islands, smaller islets and cays are the submerged remains of a chain of volcanoes. Britain and the United States meet right here, on a dotted frontier that perforates the chart, with one lot being a British Crown Colony and the rest ‘an unincorporated territory of the USA’. Most Brits stick to Britain. In fact, many Americans stick to these islands as well, enjoying less crime and fewer cars and shopping malls than on their own. Not to mention a far more laid-back atmosphere. The BVIs are, therefore, some of the most peaceful and unexploited islands anywhere in the Caribbean – and our recommendation for a luxurious taste of holiday heaven.

‘ The British Virgin Islands’ white-sand beaches are among the finest in the Caribbean.’ This page 1. Peter Island 2. Guana Island 3. The Baths, Virgin Gorda Opposite 4. Wreck of the RMS Rhone

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Although your choice of hotel will tie you to a particular island, you can easily hop between different ones by the network of zippy ferries. Among the very best are Biras Creek on Virgin Gorda, which sits astride an isthmus between lagoon and sea, its exclusivity underlined by the fact that it can only be reached by boat (from Gun Creek); Peter Island, a one-resort island where the 100 guests have around 1,800 acres and a gorgeous beach all to themselves; and Little Dix Bay, which presides over another beautiful beach on Virgin Gorda and has a whole raft of activities for the whole family.

Beaches The BVIs’ white-sand beaches are among the finest in the Caribbean, topped by Cane Garden Bay and Long Bay on Tortola, White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, Deadman’s Bay on Peter Island and the pancake-flat island of Anegada, which lies 14 miles north east of the main chain.

Scrub Island is the newest addition to the BVIs luxury private island resort portfolio, a place where resort, spa and marina come together to create a self-contained world of modern luxury. The most famous of all retreats is, of course, Richard Branson’s Necker, but this private island is largely restricted to exclusive parties. However, Guana Island, also privately owned, does accommodate individual bookings. And as it takes just 32 guests on 850 acres of paradise, it feels incredibly private and is probably the closest you’ll get to Necker.

For an unbeatable natural show, seek out The Baths on Virgin Gorda, where marble-flat sands are gently lapped by the ocean and punctuated by pinky-grey granite boulders, all Dalí-esque in their size and shape. Reaching this surreal spot is half the fun, requiring a walk and wade, Indiana Jones-style, through a playground of grottoes, caves and seawater jacuzzis. It’s worth it for the photos. Boating The waters that lap the archipelago of 60-odd islands, laid out in two parallel tracks and separated by the Sir Francis Drake Channel, are among the very best in the world for sailing. Indeed, there are more berths on boats than beds in hotels, with many visitors never sleeping a single night ashore.

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

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Protected from heavy seas, yet with consistent – though rarely forceful – north-easterly trade winds, and with easy hops between scores of anchorages, the waters of the BVI are the nursery slopes of yachting.

The most popular dive site in the entire Caribbean – the wreck of the RMS Rhone, which sank in 1867 – also lies on the bed of the BVI and can even be seen from inches below the surface off the western tip of Salt Island.

You can charter independently (‘bareboating’), sail in a flotilla under the watchful eye of a lead boat, charter a crewed yacht – which can mean anything from a bolt-on skipper to a fully serviced super-yacht – or just mess about in dinghies in the protected, lake-like waters of Virgin Gorda’s North Sound.

After dark Despite their low-key, laid-back, tiny population, the BVIs offer some remarkable nightlife. On the island of Jost Van Dyke (population around 200), there are two top watering holes: the Soggy Dollar, so named because the only approach is to wade ashore from a boat, and Foxy’s, where every night is party night, complete with eye-popping cocktails, barbecued food and Foxy Callwood himself singing cheeky calypsos. Pick up a copy of Limin’ Times for your guide of when to be where.

Diving Under-the-sea action also covers a broad spectrum of pleasures. Snorkellers can simply goggle just off the beach or take a regularly organised boat excursion from Tortola to spectacular sites such as The Indians, where sharp pinnacles of rock grow from beds of coral that are colonised by fish in their ‘Sunday best’ scales.

WHEN TO GO

Anegada

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

The BVIs are a year-round destination, but the best time to visit is from December to March. Be mindful that ‘hurricane season’ is from June to October. JAN

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HIGHLIGHTS Relax in the spectacular cliffside spa of Rosewood’s Little Dix Bay resort, looking over the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Snorkel The Baths on Virgin Gorda – a surreal world of marble-flat sands and pink boulders.

Jost Van Dyke

Virgin Gorda

Guana Island

Dive down to explore the ghostly remains of the RMS Rhone, shipwrecked off the coast of Salt Island in 1867.

Scrub Island

HOW TO GET THERE

Tortola

Antigua and Barbados are the best gateways to the BVIs, with onward scheduled, shared- and private-charter flights to Tortola. Peter Island

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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

P E RU F RO M T H E A N D E S TO T H E A M A Z O N

O U R L AT I N A M E R I C A E X P E R T PA U L W E B B T R AV E L L E D F R O M P E R U ’ S B U S T L I N G C A P I TA L L I M A T O T H E H E A R T O F T H E A M A Z O N R A I N F O R E S T, F I L L I N G U P O N A R T, A W E - I N S P I R I N G V I S TA S A N D A L PA C A A L O N G T H E W AY.

Machu Picchu

Named by the Spanish in 1535, and the seat of their rule for 300 years, Lima has been a centre of sophisticated civilisation for millennia. Imposing pre-Columbian temples and a wonderfully preserved array of colonial buildings stand as testament to this heritage. Along with this immediately visible and accessible cultural landscape, amplified by incredible museums and religious traditions, Lima is also the cradle of Peruvian gastronomy. So where better to begin my trip? LIMA In Lima, I stayed in the bohemian seaside district of Barranco at the Arts Boutique Hotel B. This stunning belle époque mansion served as a seaside retreat during the presidency of Augusto Leguía in the 1920s and opened as a hotel in 2013 after painstaking restoration by sculptors from Lima’s School of Fine Arts.

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No stay in the city is complete without a visit to the famous Gold Museum and the Inca treasures housed within, or the Larco Museum, packed with artefacts that give an extraordinary insight into 4,000 years of Peruvian pre-Columbian history.

With a vertical drop of some 4,000 metres from its rim, the Colca Canyon is twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. It is also the place to see the majestic Andean condor, as they wheel in the thermals above the valley floor, and to sample another local delicacy: grilled alpaca!

A R E Q U I PA From Lima, I flew south to the colonial ‘white city’ of Arequipa, overshadowed by volcanoes and home to the Santa Catalina convent, which was built in 1579 for the nuns of the Dominican Second Order. Arequipa is also the gateway for the Colca Canyon, but before embarking on the long road journey south across the high Altiplano, it’s a good idea to fuel up on a breakfast of adobo arequipeño, a very tasty local dish of marinated pork.

‘ Everything in Peru, in some ways, seems to be a peak; the colours there are almost unbelievable. It was so beautiful one was often left speechless.’ Georgia O’Keeffe, painter

This page Osambela antique house, Lima

PERU

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LAKE TITICACA

MACHU PICCHU

I continued overland across the high plateaux of the altiplano to Lake Titicaca, some 4,000 metres above sea level and the highest navigable body of water in the world. It is said that the Inca god Viracocha arose from the lake to create the Earth, and although it had been another long road journey, I was up early the next day to meet the indigenous Uros, an ancient people who live on floating islands that have been built from reeds growing at the water’s edge.

With time running short, I reluctantly eschewed the four-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in favour of the narrow-gauge railroad that runs through the Urubamba Valley to Aguas Calientes – and probably saved my knees in the process! But by whatever means you reach Machu Picchu, it is always a once-in-a-lifetime moment when you first set eyes on the Incas’ legendary mountain-top citadel. I had done so a few years back, but both the ruins and their incomparable setting were just as magical second time around.

CUSCO

This page 1. Santa Catalina Monastery, Arequipa 2. C olca River 3. Uros Islands, Lake Titicaca Opposite 4. Lake Sandoval, Peruvian Amazon 5. Inkaterra Reserva Amazónica

From Puno, I boarded a slow train heading north to Cusco, which gave me the luxury of time to enjoy the spectacular Andean scenery en route. Cusco itself, the historic capital of the Inca Empire and a major hub for the Spanish conquistadores, is a delight to explore. Stand-out attractions for me were the ancient sun temple of Coricancha, whose floors and walls were once covered in sheets of gold, and the replica painting of ‘The Last Supper’ in the city’s main cathedral. The Peruvian version of da Vinci’s iconic masterpiece has Christ and his disciples seated around a platter of cuy, or guinea pig, a local Andean delicacy.

Machu Picchu is simply too special to rush. So it’s well worth spending the night back down at Aguas Calientes and returning the next morning. Not only will you beat the daily influx of tourists, but you can also climb Huayna Picchu, the sugarloaf mountain that rises directly above the ruins and has the most incredible panoramic views from its summit. PERUVIAN AMAZON The final leg of my journey took me east to the Peruvian Amazon and the Madre de Dios River. I stayed at the riverside Inkaterra Reserva Amazónica, comfortable enough and an excellent base for exploring the rainforest and learning something about its natural riches. Given the density of the jungle, wildlife is not always easy to find, but I was lucky enough to spot howler monkey, caiman, agouti and hoatzin (the ‘stinkbird’), plus many other bird species.

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‘ The final leg of my journey took me east to the Peruvian Amazon and the Madre de Dios River. Here I was lucky enough to spot howler monkey, caiman, agouti and hoatzin.’ 4

WHEN TO GO Year round, but there can be significant rainfall in the High Andes from November to March, so best to avoid these months if you plan to trek the Inca Trail.

COLOMBIA ECUADOR

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HIGHLIGHTS Explore the culinary hotspots (this is the cradle of ceviche, after all) and cultural highlights of Lima.

BRAZIL PERU

Lima Puerto Maldonado Machu Picchu Aguas Calientes

BOLIVIA

Cusco Puno Colca Canyon

Lake Titicaca

Arequipa

Ride the narrow gauge railway cutting through the spectacular Urubamba Valley between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Stay in a private thatched cabana deep within the Peruvian Amazon at the Inkaterra Reserva Amazónica.

PRICES/ITINERARY A 16-night ‘Ultimate Peru’ itinerary, visiting Lima, Arequipa, Lake Titicaca, Cusco, Urubamba, Machu Picchu and the Amazon Jungle, costs from £4,095 per person including flights.

CHILE

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PERU

G A L A PA G O S ISLANDS, A H OY ! A T R I P T O D A R W I N ’ S ‘ L I V I N G L A B O R AT O R Y ’ R A N K S H I G H LY O N M O S T P E O P L E ’ S M U S T- S E E L I S T O F D E S T I N AT I O N S . A S A W A R D - W I N N I N G T R AV E L W R I T E R P E T E R H U G H E S P U T S I T, ‘THERE ARE NOT ENOUGH BUCKETS IN THE WORLD TO HOLD A L L T H E W I S H - L I S T S O N W H I C H T H E G A L A PA G O S A P P E A R . ’

Boats are the best way to explore the Galapagos archipelago, as you really do need to see several islands on the one trip, as each is unique. Since the vessels tend to follow similar itineraries, the decision of which one would best suit you is, in many ways, much more important that where they are going. Cabins on all cruises can be booked individually, or you may prefer to charter one of the smaller boats exclusively for a private party of family and friends. The choice is yours.

THE BEAGLE

ANAHI

Named after Charles Darwin’s famous ship, The Beagle is an elegant, classically designed steel-hulled schooner with teak decks and cosy, wooden interiors. She carries just 13 passengers in seven en-suite cabins with upper and lower berths (one is a dedicated single cabin), and a crew of five plus a naturalist guide. Although you can dine in the saloon, most meals are served al fresco on the shaded stern deck of the boat. Sea kayaks, wetsuits and snorkelling equipment are also carried on board.

This modern, 90-foot catamaran not only represents very good value for money, but has a shallow draft that allows her to edge closer inshore than some of the deeperhulled vessels. She carries 16 passengers, with a crew of eight plus a naturalist guide. Cabins are air-conditioned, with large windows and private bathrooms, below decks are a saloon, dining room and a library, while outdoor space is devoted to a bar area, Jacuzzi and sundeck. Sea kayaks, wetsuits and snorkelling gear are also carried on board.

The Beagle offers alternate seven-night itineraries in the north-western and southern/central islands respectively, which can be combined to make a two-week cruise.

Anahi offers a choice of three-, fourand seven-night itineraries. Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £4,545 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito).

Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £4,295 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito). Opposite Galapagos sea lions This page Approaching Kicker Rock

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CORMORANT

ECLIPSE

O C E A N S P R AY

A larger, more luxurious catamaran than Anahi, Cormorant has two suites and seven spacious en-suite cabins, one of which is a dedicated single. Each has a plasma TV and outside balcony (apart from the single), while shared facilities include two bars, spacious sundeck, library and Jacuzzi.

This sleek, white, 210-foot vessel carries 48 passengers – far fewer than others of comparable size operating in the Galapagos – so the atmosphere on board feels exclusive. There is a 31-strong crew plus one naturalist for every 12 passengers, furthering the intimate feeling of being on a private yacht.

Cormorant offers a choice of threeto 14-night itineraries.

The cabins – some with picture windows, some with portholes, but all en suite – share the below decks with a library, saloon and dining room, while up on top deck is a bar, second dining area and Jacuzzi. Double kayaks are also part of the inventory, as are wetsuits and snorkelling equipment.

Similar in spec to the Cormorant and sharing the same owner, Ocean Spray can also carry 17 passengers. She offers the same range of itineraries – from short ‘tasters’ to more exhaustive circumnavigations of the archipelago, as well as comparable facilities and levels of comfort aboard – but there are no suites, and cabins on the upper deck are a little smaller.

Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £5,575 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito).

Ocean Spray offers a choice of threeto 14-night itineraries. Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £5,575 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito).

Eclipse offers a choice of three-, four-, five- and seven-night itineraries, which can be combined to make a longer cruise. Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £5,375 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito). This page 1. Marine iguanas on Fernandina Island 2. B lue-footed booby Opposite 3. Bartolome Island 1

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L A P I N TA Similar in length to the Eclipse and also carrying up to 48 passengers, La Pinta offers a highly personal service normally associated with smaller vessels. Cabins are all en suite, some with interconnecting doors, which are ideal for families. In addition to the standard fare of sea kayaks and snorkelling gear, there is a glass-bottomed boat, ‘star-gazing equipment’ and an observation platform on deck for bird’s eye views of dolphins and whales.

G A L A PA G O S ISLANDS

ISLA P I N TA

ISLA GENOVESA

ISLA MARCHENA Volcán Wolf

ISLA SANTIAGO

I S L A B A LT R A

La Pinta offers a choice of three-, fourand seven-night itineraries.

ISLA FERNANDINA

Costs for a week’s inclusive cruise start at £5,795 per person (including flights from London and two nights in Quito).

ISLA PINZÓN

Parque Nacional Galapagos I S L A S A N TA C R U Z

ISLA ISABELA

ISLA S A N TA FÉ

ISLA FLOREANA

WHEN TO GO

T H E G A L A PA G O S A N D P E R U

The Galapagos Islands are a year-round destination, although different species are best seen in different seasons. The islands are at their hottest from January to April, seas are likely to be a little choppy during the cooler, windier months from July to September, and the weeks prior to Christmas can bring low cloud and mist.

With daily flights between Ecuador and Lima, any Galapagos cruise can be readily combined with a few days’ exploring the Inca strongholds of the Peruvian Andes.

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ISLA DE SAN CRISTÓBAL

ISLA E S PA Ñ O L A

Additional costs for a six-night Peru extension, with one night in Lima, two nights in the Urubamba Valley, one night at Machu Picchu and two nights in Cusco, start from £1,495 per person including internal flights.

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A NEW TA S T E OF AU S T R A L I A S E A S O N E D T R AV E L W R I T E R G R A H A M B O Y N T O N M E E T S T H E N E W B R E E D O F C H E F S , R E S TA U R AT E U R S A N D W I N E M A K E R S R E I N V E N T I N G T H E C O U N T RY ’ S C U L I N A RY L A N D S C A P E .

Forget all the old clichés: there’s more to Australian food than tossing shrimps on a barbie and more to its wines than the Old World gives it credit for. Because what I found, like many visitors in recent years, is a land of expert organic cultivation, elegantly balanced wines and award-winning international haute cuisine. As the celebrated Sydney chef Mark Best told me in the cool confines of his award-winning Sydney restaurant, Marque: ‘Finally, Australia is sure of itself, of its place in the world. It’s a combination of no longer measuring ourselves against the Old World and also recognising that, geographically, Australia is part of Asia.’ I travelled the country – from New South Wales to Victoria and South Australia, and finally across to Western Australia – on his word. My month-long, 4,200-mile odyssey took in all manner of vineyards, farmers’ markets, venerated ‘three hat’ fine-dining establishments, gourmet food vans, urban gastropubs and rural organic pubs. And in the end I realised that Australia is as gastronomically vibrant as it is geographically vast.

NEW SOUTH WALES

VICTORIA

Mark Best’s much-praised Surry Hills restaurant Marque has, for the past two years, been listed as one of the World’s Top 100 restaurants, so no better place to begin my Antipodean blowout. And unlike so many of the modern après-el Bulli establishments, Marque actually serves real food rather than performing a culinary pantomime. So, although you get an 11-course degustation menu, it is very much in the tradition of new French cuisine.

Melbourne’s long tradition of solid European cuisine was broken only recently by the opening of Shannon Bennett’s latest version of Vue de Monde, offering a wild Australian degustation menu as well as panoramic views of the city and the surrounding ocean. Bennett’s head chef Cory Campbell says the menu is representative of contemporary Australian cuisine, with marron and Wagyu beef as ‘core courses’.

Sydney, not surprisingly, is replete with fine dining establishments, including Neil Perry’s Rockpool and Peter Gilmore’s Quay. However, as if to demonstrate the sheer culinary range in this great city, Mark Best recommends Golden Century, a massive 600-seater Cantonese restaurant that is a favourite of Sydney’s top chefs. The absence of snobbery remains an attractive Australian trait, even in these heady days of haute cuisine.

If you’re after more tradition Melbourne Italian fare, try Grossi Florentino on Bourke Street, or the marvellous Ombra right next door. As with most decent Melbourne restaurants, the wine list, featuring a good selection of Italian wines, also offers a selection from Victoria. But it is out on the Mornington Peninsula that the region’s great viticultural treats lie. There, a band of clever eccentrics have shelved their main careers, thrown themselves into single-vineyard, smallproduction wine-making and turned out some of Australia’s most delicious pinot noirs and chardonnays. One of these Peninsula pioneers is Richard McIntyre, a surgeon-turned-winemaker who, together with his daughter Kate, produces the acclaimed Moorooduc range and the highly regarded Ten Minutes By Tractor. Another career convert is civil engineer Nat White, who first tasted pinot and chardonnay in Burgundy in the 1960s and liked it so much he thought he’d try to make some at his Main Ridge Estate.

Opposite A pomegranate gets the Mark Best treatment This page 1. Mark Best at Marque, Sydney 2. A classic Italian selection at Ombra, Melbourne 3. Lunchtime at Charles Melton Estate

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AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

The two principal South Australia food and wine areas outside the state’s cheery little capital, Adelaide, are the Barossa Valley (an hour’s drive) and Adelaide Hills (less than half an hour’s drive), and both are awash with big Australian characters. Maggie Beer, former host of the longrunning TV series The Cook and The Chef, is one of them, whirling like a dervish among the diners, drinkers and shoppers at her eponymous Farm Shop.

The final leg of this month-long journey took me to Margaret River, three to four hours south of Perth and one of Australia’s fashionable wine regions, producing more than 15 per cent of the country’s fine wines. Over the past decade it has grown as a tourist destination, thanks mainly to the upgraded Perth-Bunbury Highway, which has shortened the drive by 40 minutes and made the journey much easier. Bordered by the Indian Ocean to the west and ancient forests to the east, Margaret River is a laid-back gourmet enclave with more than 60 cellar doors. Several have excellent restaurants, including one of the founding wineries, the Leeuwin Estate, which has become something of a cultural gathering place, staging summer concerts and boasting a substantial art gallery. It also has an award-winning restaurant overlooking the rolling lawns and karri trees and serving up excellent contemporary Australian cuisine (try the freshwater Blue Ridge marron in a bisque with crème fraîche).

At Charles Melton Estate I had lunch at the small terrace restaurant overlooking the vines (the gourmet lamb pie with shiraz sauce is outstanding), and stayed overnight at the estate’s 19th-century Lutheran church, which has been transformed into a rather charming two-bedroom guesthouse.

This page 1. Maggie Beer at her Farm Shop in Nuriootpa 2. Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River

WHEN TO GO New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Western Australia are at their best from October (their spring) to April (their autumn). JAN

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HIGHLIGHTS Enjoy an aperitif, and the panoramic view, at the Lui Bar in Melboune’s Vue de Monde restaurant.

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Head to the Adelaide Hills and pick out a gourmet picnic at Maggie Beer’s renowned Farm Shop.

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Sydney

Barossa Valley Adelaide

Savour an al fresco summer concert in the picturesque grounds of the Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River.

VICTORIA Melbourne Mornington Peninsula

HOW TO GO Don’t forget, our specialist consultants at Bridge & Wickers can tailor a single itinerary that crosses the four states in one grand feast of a journey.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA Perth

TA S M A N I A

Graham will also be co-hosting our ‘Ultimate Invitation to Zimbabwe’ in September with Nick Van Gruisen. See page 14 for further details.

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NEW ZEALAND

I N S T Y L E , A S O N LY B R I D G E & W I C K E R S K N O W H O W

New Zealand is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, with spectacular scenery and dramatic natural sights. On our tailor-made holidays you can visit this natural wonderland in style, relaxing in some of its fabulous luxury lodges while exploring the great outdoors.

BRI DGE & WICKERS PART OF THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL COMPANY

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Bixby Bridge on the National Scenic Byway

T H E U L T I M AT E AMERICAN RO A D T R I P

B R I D G E & W I C K E R S ’ D I R E C T O R D AV I D W I C K E R S H E A D S O U T O N T H E H I G H W AY L O O K I N G F O R A D V E N T U R E IN SOUTH-WEST USA. HE ISN’T DISSAPPOINTED...

GRAND CANYON Before heading towards the coast we ventured east, first to the delightful town of Springdale, which is the gateway to Zion, one of Utah’s stunning national parks, and then to the Grand Canyon, natural wonder of the world.

If an Oscar were to be awarded for world’s most spectacular scenic showcase, it would surely go to the Grand Canyon. ‘It is the one great sight’, said Theodore Roosevelt, ‘that every American should see.’ The whole world, too – of the five million visitors a year, a quarter come from abroad.

Last summer, my wife and I ‘test drove’ the perfect three-week family holiday, starting with a flight to Las Vegas and flying home from Los Angeles. It was not so much a single holiday as a series of wonderful chapters, with the differences between places we explored so amazingly diverse, from deserts to mountains, canyons to urban cool, barbecues by open fires and lobster rolls at a shack at the end of a pier. Why not follow in our wake?

‘ If an Oscar were to be awarded for world’s most spectacular scenic showcase, it would surely go to the Grand Canyon.’

This page 1. The Grand Canyon 2. T he iconic Golden Gate Bridge 3. David Wickers Opposite 4. Santa Monica Pier, Los Angeles

LAS VEGAS Las Vegas induces the same sort of extreme opinions as Marmite. But love it or loathe it, you will certainly be overwhelmed by the sight of this incandescent oasis in the middle of the desert. The Strip beckons, not just for its casinos but its wacky, over-the-top parade of buildings – an Eiffel Tower one minute, Venice Grand Canal (complete with gondoliers) the next. Even if you don’t gamble a cent (although it’s worth risking a modest punt just to get into the spirit of the place), you can enjoy first-class shows such as Cirque du Soleil and the Blue Man Group, dine at Michelin-starred restaurants and watch the performing fountains choreographed to music in front of the Bellagio Hotel, before indulging in its sumptuous, famous buffet. With nonstop flights from the UK, Vegas is an easy entry point to the US southwest.

That very first sight, when you peer over the edge of what represents the entire history of the world, quickens the pulse, pumps the adrenaline and lubricates the palms. The scale is unimaginable, only really registering when you catch a glimpse of the thin, silvery jade streak of the Colorado River a mile down below. Visitors staying overnight, aside from enjoying the Canyon without the daytripping crowds, will also experience two trooping of the colour parades, the first at dusk and the second at dawn. The most famous of the Canyon hotels is El Tovar, a giant log cabin built in 1903, when it was considered the most elegant hotel west of the Mississippi. SAN FRANCISCO Turning west, we stopped for a night in Death Valley and another in Yosemite National Park before arriving in irresistible San Francisco. Here we slipped unashamedly into tourist mode, riding the ferry across the Bay to Sausalito and returning to the city by open-topped bus across the Golden Gate Bridge; visiting the prison island of Alcatraz, where Al Capone resided for a number of years; eating in Chinatown and browsing the City Lights bookstore, cultural crucible of the Beat poets.

SOUTHWEST USA

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pause for breath until it was time to drive south to Monterey, with its Cannery Row/Steinbeck connections and one of the world’s best aquariums, and to pretty Carmel.

We took the BART train under the Bay to Berkeley, rode the cable cars, experienced an earthquake (no, a virtual one in the excellent California Academy of Sciences), visited the farmers’ market in the Ferry Building, explored the arty, foodie, boutiquey Hayes Valley neighbourhood and, well, didn’t really

LOS ANGELES And so finally to LA and the uber-cool Andaz Hotel bang on Sunset Boulevard in fashionable West Hollywood. We spent three days in the city, leaving our car in the hotel garage and hopping between points of interest by taxi rather than having to navigate, find and pay for precious parking slots. We particularly enjoyed our time in ‘LA on Sea’, starting at funky, alternative Venice, home to the bionicbodied weight lifters on Muscle Beach, and walking along the promenade to neighbouring but much more refined Santa Monica, famous for its historic pier and excellent shopping. If a beach rather than a city hotel is more to your liking, then stay at the excellent Shutters on the Beach here.

The route from San Francisco to Los Angeles encompasses one of the planet’s most scenic highways, culminating in the dramatic cliffs and rocky shores of Big Sur. Depending on how long you want to devote to the coastal drive, you should allow at least three to four hours for Hearst Castle, the sumptuous hilltop home of the publishing magnate who accumulated a collection of treasures worthy of a national museum. You might also want to spend a night or two in San Luis Obispo, with a side trip to Avila Beach. Before reaching Los Angeles, I would also recommend two or three days in Santa Barbara, which has a gorgeous, palm-backed beach, a pier, lots of places to eat, good shops and a delightful Mediterranean feel.

Our other LA highlights included the iconic ‘Backlot Tour’ at Universal Studios, window shopping along Rodeo Drive, a tacky but riveting tour of movie stars’ homes and the ‘Walk of Fame’ with its celebrity hand prints, the J Paul Getty collections of art, and of course seeing the famous Hollywood sign in the hills.

‘ The route from San Francisco to LA encompasses one of the planet’s most scenic highways, culminating in the dramatic cliffs and rocky shores of Big Sur.’

17-NIGHT

‘SOUTHWEST USA ROAD TRIP’

WHEN TO GO

FROM £3,595 PER PERSON

Year round, but best from April to October. JAN

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NEVADA San Francisco

Dive into the opulent oasis of the Nevada Desert, Las Vegas! Catch a show, have a flutter, dine on Michelin-starred cuisine. Stay overnight on the rim of the Grand Canyon and watch dawn light up its immense landscapes.

U TA H

Yosemite National Park

USA

Monterey Carmel CALIFORNIA

Zion National Park

Las Vegas

Grand Canyon

Death Valley Santa Barbara

Take the scenic route from San Francisco to Los Angeles, which culminates in the dramatic cliffs and rocky shores of Big Sur.

Los Angeles

ARIZONA

PRICES/ITINERARY A 17-night ‘Southwest USA Road Trip’ itinerary, visiting Las Vegas, Grand Canyon, Yosemite, San Francisco, Carmel and Los Angeles, costs from £3,595 per person including hire car and flights.

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FOCUS ON INDONESIA OUR RESIDENT INDONESIA EXPERT NEIL DUNHAM SHARES HIS HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST ARCHIPELAGO.

The temple complex of Borobudur

16-NIGHT

‘ U LT I M AT E INDONESIA’ FROM £3,285 PER PERSON

Visit the Temples of Borobudur in Java Borobodur is the largest Buddhist monument in the world. Its sheer size is impressive enough, but add a dreamy Javanese backdrop of mist-shrouded volcanoes to the mix and the overall impact is magnificent. As are the sunrise views from the exclusive Aman hideaway of Amanjiwo. Watch the sunset over Lombok Lombok does sunsets like no other. Chill out in the shade of a coconut palm at Jeeva Klui on the island’s west coast and watch Mount Agung appear as if by magic out of the late-afternoon haze on neighbouring Bali as the sun sinks behind it. At 3,142 metres, Agung is one of Indonesia’s most distinctive and impressive volcanoes.

Sail Phinisi in Eastern Indonesia There is simply no better way to explore some of Indonesia’s 13,466 islands than on a traditional Phinisi. There is a surprisingly wide choice of boats to choose from, most of which ply their trade far from the madding crowd among the remote islands of Komodo, Timor and Raja Ampat in the east. Untouched tribal communities, white-sand beaches and the world’s best snorkelling and diving await you. See Komodo dragons in action The famous ‘dragons’ are mostly found on the islands of Komodo and Rinca, which together form a designated national park to protect this legendary creature. Other than a couple of small fishing communities, these islands are virtually untouched and the Komodo dragons are able to roam like modern-day dinosaurs, hunting deer and other small mammals. The Komodo National Park also boasts some of the most diverse coral and marine life on the planet, making it a wildlife lover’s paradise.

Opposite The temple complex of Borobudur This page A traditional Phinisi

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Meet the orangutans of Kalimantan The Tanjung Puting National Park in Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan) is the place to see the orangutan in the wild. No less than 75 per cent of the world’s entire population is found here, and the park’s pristine jungle vegetation is sanctuary to a dazzling array of other fauna and flora. Credit for this is largely due to the Orangutan Research and Conservation Program based at the landmark Camp Leakey station. We recommend that you stay close to the station at the Rimba Ecolodge, which can only be reached by boat from the port of Kumai.

‘ There is simply no better way to explore some of Indonesia’s 13,466 islands than on a traditional Phinisi.’

INDONESIA

View Mount Bromo in Java Mount Bromo is the centrepiece of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, whose dramatic landscapes cover a huge area of 800-square kilometres in eastern Java. At 2,392 metres, Bromo is not the tallest of Indonesia’s volcanoes, but there is nothing that can match the sheer wonder of its incredible setting. Views are best from a vantage point on Mount Penanjakan. Relax in Seminyak, Bali The resort of Seminyak has some of Bali’s trendiest hotels, bars and restaurants. Watch surfers catch the last few waves of the day from Ku De Ta Bar with a cool mojito in your hand, while the resident DJ plays relaxing chillout tunes and the sun sets over the Indian Ocean.

This page 1. Mount Bromo, Java 2. Ubud, Bali 3. Komodo dragon 4. An orangutan in Kalimantan 5. Seminyak, Bali

Dive in Raja Ampat The Raja Ampat islands form the northeastern tip of the Indonesian archipelago and lie at the heart of the so-called ‘coral triangle’, the global centre of marine biodiversity. Approximately 75 per cent of the planet’s coral species are found here, with ten times as many hard coral species than in the entire Caribbean. Access is becoming less of a problem, with a number of luxury phinisi now available for charter, but if you prefer to sleep on dry land, then stay at the stunning Misool Eco Resort, where over-water bungalows are dotted around a turquoise lagoon and the diving is truly world class.

‘At 2,392 metres, Bromo is not the tallest of Indonesia’s volcanoes, but none can match the sheer wonder of its incredible setting.’

Hike around Ubud, Bali You don’t have to walk far from the centre of Ubud to immerse yourself in a traditional Balinese world of iridescent green rice terraces, intricate Hindu temples and local craft shops. Enjoy the gently rolling verdant landscapes of the central hills, listen to the birdsong or slake your thirst on a fresh fruit juice… the ‘spiritual heart’ of the island certainly offers an invigorating assault on the senses. Explore the Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Home to the tarsier, the world’s smallest primate, Tangkoko is easily accessible from the growing number of beach resorts that can be found near Manado on the north-eastern tip of Sulawesi. As well as the tarsier, the park is sanctuary to such exotic creatures as the black tailless monkey, Maleo bird and the Sulawesi bear cuscus. Diving enthusiasts will also be drawn to North Sulawesi by two of Indonesia’s finest underwater playgrounds – the Bunaken National Marine Park and Lembeh Strait.

Opposite 6. A monkey at Borobudur

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WHEN TO GO

Indonesia is best visited from June to September. These months are also ideal for cruises in Komodo and Timor. However, in Raja Ampat the seasons are reversed, with November to March being the best months for sailing and diving. JAN

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PRICES/ITINERARIES A 16-night ‘Ultimate Indonesia’ itinerary, visiting Borobodur, Kalimantan, Mount Bromo, Ubud and Lombok, costs from £3,285 per person including flights.

Phinisi boat charters Costs for a week’s private charter range from £25,500 for a party of up to eight on Tiger Blue, to £62,500 for a party of six on Si Datu Bua, and £88,500 for a party of ten on Silolona. Some boats schedule occasional set departures that you can join individually – costs start at £2,195 per person for a week’s cruise and are inclusive of meals, drinks and activities.

M A L A Y S I A Tangkoko National Park

RAJA A M PAT

K A L I M A N TA N SULAWASI

I N D O N E S I A J AVA

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Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park

Komodo National Park

LOMBOK TIMOR

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WILD STYLE IN

C A N A DA F R O M T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O S TAY, FA I R W AY S T O P L AY A N D T R A I N S T O C AT C H , T H I S I S O U R G U I D E T O W H E R E C A N A D A’ S G R E AT O U T D O O R S M E E T S T H E G R E AT I N D O O R S I N S T Y L E .

The Rocky Mountaineer

Most people know that Canada is magnificently endowed with spectacular scenery and wildlife. But what often comes as a surprise is the degree of luxury that even remote corners of the country can offer, enabling visitors to experience the natural assets without compromising on creature comforts. Here’s our selection of places where the great outdoors meets the great indoors in spectacular fashion. QUEBEC, THE LAURENTIANS The Laurentians, little more than an hour’s drive from Montreal, is a world of voluptuous landscapes, vivid blue lakes and feisty rivers, with a light speckling of small towns and pretty villages. In the words of Lonely Planet: ‘A visit to this natural paradise is like putting your feet up after a long day.’

In winter it’s a haven for skiing, particularly around Mont-Tremblant, where the slopes are rated second only to those in the Rockies on the other side of the country. In summer these same landscapes welcome hikers, rafters and golfers, while foodies can follow the designated Chemin du Terroir, or ‘Farmlands Route’. Located in the heart of the forest and bordering the Mastigouche Wildlife Reserve, Hotel Sacacomie overlooks a lake whose shoreline extends for more then 40km. A spectacular giant log cabin, the property has a private beach and a wide range of activities can be arranged: canoeing, kayaking, motor boating, fishing, hiking, horse riding, float plane charters, and bear and beaver observation tours are all on the menu here.

NEW BRUNSWICK, ST ANDREWS If your idea of the great outdoors extends no further than the lush fairways and carpet greens of a stunning golf course, you’ll be overjoyed by St Andrews. No, not the St Andrews, but the links at St Andrews by-the-Sea in New Brunswick. Here, rolling parkland and majestic views across the Bay of Fundy complement 18 holes of the highest pedigree. One hole, the 12th, is even on a par with the acclaimed (and feared) 7th at California’s Pebble Beach. The Algonquin sits above the delightful seaside town of St Andrews, on the southwestern tip of one of Canada’s little-known Atlantic provinces, close to the border with the American state of Maine. It’s one of the country’s legendary resorts, with a spread of gardens, a private beach, spa, and indoor and outdoor pools. The town itself is full of quaint shops, weather-boarded houses and quirky restaurants, where fresh fish is very much the order of the day. And should you tire of the challenges presented by the golf course, you can always join a whale-watching trip around the bay.

‘ Rolling parkland and majestic views across the Bay of Fundy complement 18 holes of the highest pedigree.’ 48

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U LT I M A T E I D E A S

VA N C O U V E R I S L A N D

The west coast of Vancouver Island, reached by ferry from the mainland and then a scenic drive across the interior, is a rugged, pristine wilderness, its beaches littered with bleached trunks and branches, which combine to look like dinosaur skeletons. The drama gets turned up a notch in winter, when the coast gets battered by almighty Pacific storms and savage waves toss driftwood on to the beaches as if it were chicken bones. Aside from attracting storm watchers, The Wickaninnish Inn overlooking Chesterman Beach boasts fabulous views. With 75 lavishly appointed guest rooms and suites (the latter with private balconies) and a world-class Ancient Cedars spa, it’s no wonder this iconic property is a proud member of the peerless Relais & Châteaux portfolio.

Opposite 1. Ancient Cedars spa, The Wickaninnish Inn, Vancouver Island 2. The links at St Andrews by-the-Sea in New Brunswick This page 3. Hotel Sacacomie, The Laurentians 4. Grizzly bear, British Columbia 5. The Wickaninnish Inn, Vancouver Island

BRITISH COLUMBIA Deeply penetrated by fjords and studded with islands, the coast of British Columbia, in all its geographical intricacy, extends for some 16,000 miles. The seascapes are understandably magnificent, but more notably it is one of the prime spots in the world for seeing bears, both brown and grizzly, as well as orcas and seals.

The Sonora Resort offers the ideal immersion into this pure wilderness, again in Relais & Châteaux luxury. Its setting is as stunning as its ingredients. Fine food (and drinks, all included) and an exciting menu of activities that includes Zodiac nature cruises, kayaking, fishing and mountain biking are the order of the day – and night. There’s also a spa, swimming pool and indoor tennis facilities.

‘ British Columbia: one of the prime spots in the world for seeing bears – both brown and grizzly – as well as orcas and seals.’

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CANADA

THE ROCKIES The interior of the Canadian west is dominated by the Rockies, which form the border between British Columbia and Alberta. To best experience this spectacular show of nature, we suggest you board The Rocky Mountaineer for what is one of the most scenic rail journeys on the planet. The two-day ride from Vancouver follows the Fraser and Thompson Rivers as they cut with fearsome froth and fury through a series of granite gorges, including the aptly named Jaws of Death and Hell’s Gate, before traversing the arid rain shadow landscapes that divide the Coastal Ranges from the Rockies proper and climbing gradually up and over the Continental Divide to either Banff or Jasper. These two towns are linked by the Icefields Parkway, a national treasure that runs cheek by jowl beside the highest summits and the menacing tongues of immense glaciers.

Bow Lake, Icefields Parkway

WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Canada is from late-June to mid-September, or a little later if you want to enjoy the spectacular fall colours. MAR

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Follow the gastronomic ‘Farmlands Route’ to your stomach’s content through the voluptuous landscapes of the Laurentians.

CANADA NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

BRITISH COLUMBIA A L B E R TA S A S K AT C H E W A N

QUEBEC

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NORTHERN TERRITORIES

The Rockies

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The Laurentians St Andrews Montreal

Ride the Rocky Mountaineer train on a breathtaking journey across the Continental Divide. Check the storm report and take a ferry-drive to the ragged, windswept west coast of Vancouver Island.

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Canada

WHERE THE GREAT

OUTDOORS MEETS THE GREAT

INDOORS Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning scenery is only matched by its choice of amazing places to stay, like the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Call us now to experience Canada as only Bridge & Wickers know how.

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Embraced by a national park on Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spectacular coastline, Amanoi is a contemporary beachside resort overlooking Vinh Hy Bay. Amantaka is housed in a cluster of French colonial buildings in Luang Prabang, a charming picturesque town in Laos. Once the guest villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, Amansara lies on the fringes of the 9th-century wonder of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, the cultural capital of Cambodia.

Vietnam & Beyond Explore Amanoi with a stay of four nights or more and receive a complimentary room upgrade (subject to availability) and more. Then extend your stay with three nights at either Amantaka, Laos or Amansara, Cambodia and enjoy complimentary activities at each resort. Journey until 30 September 2016.

Indochina Past & Present Journey to Amanoi and receive complimentary dining and spa experiences, before exploring Laos and Cambodia, two of Southeast Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most fascinating destinations. A six-night journey includes three nights at each resort, airport transfers, and complimentary dining and activities. Journey until 30 September 2016.

ReseRvations The Ultimate Travel Company Tel: 020 3468 8587

Aman offers 27 resorts in 19 countries. amanresorts.com

THE U L T I M AT E SELECTION W E A S K E D O U R D E S T I N AT I O N E X P E R T S A N D U LT I M AT E I D E A S C O N T R I B U T O R S T O R E C O M M E N D T H E I R FAV O U R I T E P L A C E S T O S TAY A N D T H I N G S T O D O A R O U N D T H E W O R L D . H E R E ’ S W H AT T H E Y H A D T O S AY.

Lake Palace, Udaipur

POUSADA PICINGUABA, BRAZIL

UDAIPUR, INDIA

Laura Trace Latin America specialist

Ayesha Cronin Indian Subcontinent specialist

After a short period leading tours around Latin America, Laura was hit by the travel bug. Enchanted by the culture, the people, the food, the incredible vistas and in particular the wildlife, she has since visited 12 countries in Central and South America. She counts snorkelling with manta rays and sea lions in the Galapagos as one of the highlights of her travels so far.

Ayesha spent her formative and school years in Kerala and the Nilgiri hills of southern India, which inspired her love of exploring the great outdoors. She travelled extensively across India before moving to the UK for university 15 years ago. Ayesha has worked in tailormade travel for 12 years and loves to help her clients explore the hidden charms of the Subcontinent.

Of all the places I have visited in the world, Pousada Picinguaba is one that’s made a lasting impression on me. Set on the Costa Verde in southeast Brazil, just a four-hour drive from either Rio or São Paulo, this very special property is the perfect spot to relax, away from the crowds in a completely natural setting.

Udaipur, the city of lakes, is a truly romantic and very special place to visit. Famous for its cupola-crowned City Palace, which looks out across Lake Pichola to the extraordinary ‘floating’ Lake Palace, Udaipur is certainly a feast for the eyes and a must-see on any visit to Rajasthan.

The pousada is situated on a cliff overlooking a bay of beaches and is surrounded by tropical forest. The accent here is on idle indulgence, but there’s still lots to do if you feel so inclined; the colonial fishing village of Paraty is just a 30-minute drive away, and there are miles and miles of stunning coastline to be explored, either by kayak or on foot. You will be stretched to find another tourist on your adventures!

A wonderful way to experience the city is to walk from the main vegetable market via the colonial clock tower and Jagdish Temple to the City Palace. En route you will come across fruit sellers, potters, weavers and sword makers going about their daily lives – a humbling reminder of the timeless, ageless and colourful ways of life that continue unchanged in many parts of the world.

With no televisions, no phones in the rooms and no air conditioning, this is not a conventionally luxurious escape, but one that allows you to completely disconnect from everyday life and just enjoy the surroundings. And there aren’t many places left in the world that allow for that.

You will also be accompanied by a cacophony of temple bells, cows, priests and pilgrims, in marked contrast to the relative peace and seclusion you will find when you pass through the entrance gates into the palace complex. WHEN TO GO

WHEN TO GO

To avoid the heat and the monsoon, Rajasthan is best visited from October to March.

Year round, but best from October to May, when the weather is warmer. The winter months of June to September are dry but cooler.

PRICES/ITINERARY

A 15-night ‘Ultimate Rajasthan’ itinerary, visiting Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, the Aravalli Hills and, finally, Udaipur, costs from £3,385 per person including flights.

A seven-night break, with two nights in a Deluxe Ocean View room at the Porto Bay Rio Internacional, Rio de Janeiro, and five nights in a Classic room at the Pousada Picinguaba, costs from £2,595 per person, including breakfast, private transport and British Airways flights from London.

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T H E U LT I M A T E S E L E C T I O N

N U N AV I K , N O R T H E R N Q U E B E C

M A K G A D I K G A D I PA N , B O T S W A N A

David Marriott Australasia, Canada & South Pacific specialist

Tania Buhlmann Africa and Indian Ocean specialist Tania has been indulging her passion for travel in Africa for more than 10 years. Despite travelling extensively throughout the continent, she still believes that there’s no place in the world quite as exciting or rewarding as Botswana.

Botswana is known for its incredible game viewing, which is mostly found in and around the famed Okavango Delta. However, for something really spectacular, I recommend beginning or ending your safari with a few days on the Makgadikgadi Pan, staying at either Jack’s Camp or San Camp. Not only is the scenery completely different to that of the lush delta, but so is the experience. You can, for example, quad bike out on to the Pan itself to watch the sun set and the stars rise. Here, the silence is absolute and you quickly lose any sense of perspective. I felt at times that I was on the surface of the moon! What is more, you will also be able to share dawn with a mob of captivating and inquisitive meerkats as they begin their day. And if you are very lucky, they may even snuggle up to you for warmth or use you as a viewing post. Seeing life in the bush through their eyes is truly remarkable and one of Africa’s rarer privileges. WHEN TO GO During the dry season from May to October, as you will not be able to quad bike if there has been some rain.

David caught the travel bug as a child in the 60s and 70s after being driven through Europe in a motorhome. He has not stopped travelling since. He loved travelling so much that he decided to study tourism, which lead to the perfect job helping others realise their travel dreams.

I’ve been to Quebec untold times, yet it never ceases to impress. There is just so much to see and do. On a recent visit to Nunavik in the far north of the province, I came face to face with caribou, polar bears, whales, the prehistoric muskox and a giant iceberg towering above our boat. I even listened to the ice ‘sing’ as it melted in the early summer sunshine. Truly magical. It’s not just the great outdoors that makes Canada’s ‘last frontier’ so special, but having access to the local Inuit, whose genuine ‘open door’ hospitality gave me a fascinating insight into a life so different from my own. WHEN TO GO From May to October. PRICES/ITINERARY There are still places available on a six-night tour departing Montreal on 4 July 2015. Costs are £6,100 per person, excluding international flights.

PRICES/ITINERARY A 12-day safari, combining Savuti Camp, Little Vumbura in the Okavango Delta and Jack’s Camp (with quad biking and meerkat viewing), costs from £10,575* per person including flights. *Costs are based on travel in the peak-season summer months.

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TO P 1 0 HONEYMOON SWEET SPOTS J A N E A N D E R S O N , C O N D É N A S T T R AV E L L E R H O N E Y M O O N EXPERT AND EDITOR OF 101HONEYMOONS.CO.UK, L I S T S H E R T O P T E N P L A C E S T O S TA R T M A R R I E D L I F E I N S T Y L E .

SOUTH OF FRANCE

MOROCCO

SEYCHELLES

Often in life, the best choices are the ones right under your nose. This is how a honeymoon to the South of France feels to me. It’s such an obvious, glamorous choice that takes next to no time to reach, and the money saved on not going halfway round the world can be used to bump up your accommodation to something really special, such as Terre Blanche in Provence.

Morocco is a great choice for honeymooners looking for a sensory overload of exotic culture and adventure. If you’ve never been to Marrakech, it won’t disappoint. It’s still a surprise that just a four-hour flight can transport you to a land of snake charmers and whirling dervishes. The city is often frenetic and the souks a crazy labyrinth. Depending on the type of couple you are, you might like to take a guide to lead you to the best artisans.

When I first visited the Seychelles 20 years ago, I was completely bowled over by the remoteness and fragility of these islands, where frigatebirds wheel in the sky and rays swim in the shallows. On some islands, like Denis, people rely on bikes and horses and carts to get around to see its ancient tortoises and historic plantation houses, and some are wildlife refuges – such as Bird Island, home to rare breeds including the Seychelles magpie robin.

The trick of a great honeymoon here is to book into a hotel or riad that’s an oasis of calm as an antidote to city pace. La Mamounia is a legend, with its vast gardens home to ancient olive trees and a stunning pool where breakfast is served. Moorish Arab architecture and interiors make this place feel more like a palace than a hotel.

Often considered the original site of Eden, the Seychelles excels in private-island experiences. My favourite is Fregate Island Private, which I was lucky enough to visit shortly after it opened in 1998, and it’s still going strong as both a conservation stronghold and luxury hideaway. The size of Monaco, it has just 16 vast luxury villas and seven beaches. Honeymooners can literally have a beach to themselves – with butler service included!

Easily accessible from Nice, Marseille or Aix-en-Provence, Terre Blanche is set in a private estate close to the Côte d’Azur and Monaco. Couples can hide away in private suites and villas infused with Provencal style or, when the mood takes them, enjoy two championship golf courses, the superb spa (where all products are based on the local region), explore local villages such as Tourrettes and Callian and take a trip to Grasse to create their own scent. A great honeymoon keepsake.

When you’ve had enough of city life, head out to the Atlas Mountains for a stay at Sir Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot with its Berber tents and venture out for a trek and a night under the stars.

‘ Over the past 20 years, private-island resorts have been outdoing one another in a bid to be the most luxurious and innovatively romantic.’

HONEYMOONS

This page 1. Terre Blanche, Provence 2. La Mamounia, Marrakech 3. Fregate Island Private, Seychelles

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

MALDIVES

The Maldives is legendary honeymoon territory. Over the past 20 years, privateisland resorts have been outdoing one another in a bid to be the most luxurious and innovatively romantic. Well known for their lavish over-water villas, often with glass tables or floors to view the marine life below, there are now over- and underwater gourmet restaurants and spas, resident DJs in castaway open-air lounges and private infinity pools galore. COMO is one of my favourite hotel groups, and Maalifushi by COMO in the Thaa Atoll offers classic private-island, barefoot chic.

‘If there’s one special occasion that warrants a trip to the other side of the world, it’s a honeymoon.’ 2

CALIFORNIA

SYDNEY & THE GOLD COAST

BALI

I’m permanently in love with the notion of the American road trip (think Route 66, Kerouac’s On the Road and so on), and California plus a convertible equals honeymoon bliss in my book.

If there’s one special trip that warrants a trip to the other side of the world, it’s a honeymoon, and if you venture to Australia, you will always be rewarded with richly romantic experiences. Sydney is one of those clever metropolises that effortlessly combines an urban pace with chilling out.

The gentle island of Bali is another iconic honeymoon destination, as enchanting as ever with its strong Hindu culture and multi-faceted landscapes. Of course honeymooners should experience Ubud at the heart of the island, where its spirit is most accessible in temples, art and verdant rice fields.

The Pacific Coast Highway from historic Monterey to Morro Bay couldn’t get much more dramatic if it were fictionalised, and with American institutions such as Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica to host you, this is a honeymoon no-brainer.

This page 1. Maalifushi by COMO, Maldives 2. Shutters on the Beach, Santa Monica 3. One&Only Hayman Island, Whitsundays 4. Alila Villas Ulawatu, Bali

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

It’s just a hop, skip and a jump to the Gold Coast, to world-class resorts such as the recently reopened One&Only Hayman Island in the Whitsundays. This iconic 1950s resort has had a ‘natural’ makeunder that chimes well with the trend for more experiential, caring travel. The emphasis is now on organic gardens with your private villa and home-grown natural ingredients in your couples spa treatment. Luxury with love for the planet thrown in!

Couples can go off the beaten track in the north and west in search of superb diving and surf, but one thing is for sure: Bali has some of the most breathtaking resorts in the world. Alila Villas Uluwatu, poised dramatically at the edge of a limestone cliff with installation-like architecture, and The Mulia with its serene private villas, are both high on my honeymoon hitlist.

HONEYMOONS

This page 1. Azura Quilalea Private Island, Mozambique 2. Explora Atacama, Chile Opposite Cheval Blanc Hotel St-Barth Isle De France, St Barths

A F R I C A N S A FA R I & S A N D

SOUTH AMERICA

ST BARTHS

One of the classic honeymoon combinations is an African safari with all the excitement of spotting the Big Five and the glamour of staying in a luxury tented camp, followed by a stunning beach resort on the Indian Ocean to rest and replenish after the buzz of a wedding followed by all those early game drives.

For well-travelled couples looking for an adventurous, memorable honeymoon, I would recommend South America and in particular the Atacama in Chile, known as the driest place on earth. This may seem a little extreme for a honeymoon, but that’s the point – to take yourselves somewhere completely out of the ordinary, to this vast desert that rises from the Pacific Ocean up into the Altiplano, the foothills of the Andes.

This tiny, hilly French island is unlike any other in the Caribbean, with its buzzy capital Gustavia full of designer shops, natty boutiques, private yachts and gourmet restaurants, its unspoilt landscapes, bijou beaches and one-off, chi-chi hotels.

Tanzania is high on my list for its extreme beauty and fabulous camps, such as Sand Rivers Selous in the Selous Game Reserve, one of the largest protected wildlife areas in Africa. Couples stay in open-fronted stone and thatched cottages looking on to the beautiful Rufiji River. Twin with Azura Quilalea Private Island on Mozambique’s pristine coast.

Explora Atacama in Chile has more than 40 different guided hikes, bike rides, high-mountain ascents, horseback rides and stargazing sessions. The lodge has incredible views of desert and salt mountains.

My top three for honeymoons are Eden Rock (now part of the prestigious Oetker collection), with its lavish private villas, Hotel Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle De France, with a serene Guerlain spa and fabulous La Cabane de l’Isle (just about the best boutique you’ll find in a hotel), and Le Guanahani, relaunching this winter with spruced-up villas and plenty to keep couples occupied, from paddle boarding to diving.

‘ Atacama, the driest place on earth, may seem a little extreme for a honeymoon, but that’s the point – to go somewhere completely out of the ordinary.’

HONEYMOONS

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

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F RO M T H E MAASAI MARA TO T H E V I RU N G A S U LT I M AT E T R AV E L C O M PA N Y D I R E C T O R R O W A N PAT E R S O N T R A C K S K E N YA’ S W I L D E B E E S T M I G R AT I O N A N D R W A N D A’ S E N D A N G E R E D M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S O N A W E E K - L O N G S A FA R I .

Kenya’s great wildebeest migration and the mountain gorillas of the Virungas will feature prominently on many people’s bucket list. But to include both in the same holiday, and within a week, might strike one as idealistic in the extreme. Far from it! It’s entirely feasible without returning home shattered and in need of a break.

The ‘greatest wildlife show on earth’ is a soubriquet deservedly earned, but don’t be too disappointed if the curtain doesn’t go up. For regardless, the Mara is the place to be in our summer months, with plains game in their millions, cats on the prowl, seas of grassland savannah stretching to the horizon and brilliant night skies.

Taking the plunge Fly overnight with Kenya Airways to Nairobi, connect seamlessly with a local Safarilink flight down to the Masai Mara, and you can be game viewing by mid-morning of day two on the transfer into camp. Three nights will give you two further days to follow the vast wildebeest herds and to engage fully in the game of ‘will they or won’t they cross the river?’

Meet the Maasai We stayed at Kicheche, hidden away in a beautifully green acacia valley on the Mara North Conservancy, and striking the perfect balance of comfort and simplicity that African camps somehow manage to achieve so effortlessly – just eight spacious safari tents, set well apart for complete seclusion, en-suite flush toilets and bucket showers, terraces with deck chairs overlooking the valley, all the usual thoughtful touches and nightwatchmen to escort you to and from them, armed reassuringly with a flashlight and Maasai spear. Night-time visitors, many of them large, only add to the sense of adventurous occasion.

When they do take the plunge, and with crocodiles waiting patiently on the fringes, it’s Wacky Races meets an FI starting grid as vehicles converge from nowhere in a desperate race to the riverbank for the best seats in the house.

Head over to Kigali You can then fly back to Nairobi and on to Kigali (a beautiful flight across Lake Victoria, with views of Kilimanjaro to the south), arriving well in time for dinner at a good downtown hotel. Rwanda’s capital has to be one of the cleanest cities in Africa – plastic bags are banned and will be taken from you at the airport – but it’s the Genocide Memorial Centre that will leave the most lasting impression. Opened in April 2004 on the tenth anniversary of the Rwandan genocide and built on a site where more than 250,000 victims of the atrocities are buried, it is a harrowing commemoration that pulls no punches but that shouldn’t be ignored.

‘ The Mara is the place to be in our summer months, with plains game in their millions, cats on the prowl, seas of grassland savannah stretching to the horizon and brilliant night skies.’

9-NIGHT 1

‘ K E N YA & RWANDA’ FROM £5,975 PER PERSON

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U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Up to the mountains The museum is best visited in the morning before driving cross-country west to the Virunga Mountains, an easy three-hour journey through terraced hillsides on an excellent Chinese-constructed road that would put even the Swiss to shame. Stay here at Volcanoes Safaris’ Virunga Lodge, whose organic ‘bush chic’ design and ridge-top location combines eco-luxury with one of the finest views in Africa – brooding, mist-shrouded volcanoes to one side, the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhonda on the other, and a patchwork quilt of lush, green hills in all directions and as far as the eye can see. Beyond breath taking! The Virungas are, of course, all about the endangered mountain gorilla. Three nights at the lodge will allow you (barring atrocious luck or weather) to see two different family groups. There are 20 families in total, 10 of which are habituated and the remainder left alone for scientific research. Admirably, there are no plans to change the status quo, despite the obvious commercial temptation to do so.

Opposite 1. Mara North Conservancy This page 2. Virunga Lodge 3. Meeting a family of gorillas 4. Rowan Paterson gets up close

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Finding a family Be prepared for a very early start from the lodge – it’s a 45-minute drive to the park gates and a further hour or so for briefings and to be split into the requisite groups of eight, depending on your level of fitness. The trails are graded, but a gorilla family might decide to ascend a few hundred metres and convert your chosen hike from a gentle walk into a strenuous trek. So be prepared as well to walk for up to eight hours (the average is about five) on wet, muddy, overgrown terrain at altitudes of up to 3,500 metres. It’s tough going at times, but is likely to be one of the most rewarding efforts you’ll ever make.

‘ It’s tough going at times, but is likely to be one of the most rewarding efforts you’ll ever make.’ The flanks of the Virungas are cloaked in thick, tropical jungle, and you are totally reliant on your teams of guides, trackers, scouts and rangers to find their way along paths that are for the most part barely discernible…and also to find you a family. But with the help of radios and machetes they invariably deliver and, sooner or later, you will suddenly find yourself among the gorillas. To prevent the animals catching a cold rather than for your own protection, you are told not to approach too closely.

Up close and personal The rule is 27 feet, but the gorillas don’t know that. Or do they? However close you do get to them, and actual contact is highly probable, any apprehension you may have felt en route will melt away in an instant. You are allowed only one hour with your family, so make sure you treasure each and every magical minute of it. The guides, too, all of them highly trained and knowledgeable, are an essential part of the experience. We were led by Francois, who had been Dian Fossey’s personal porter for 15 years and whose style would be best described as demonstrative. When he wasn’t eating eucalyptus branches to drink the water therein or swinging wildly from bamboo culms, he was teaching us how to talk gorilla and performing ritual mating dances with my bemused but very flattered wife. Look into the eyes of a fully grown silverback and he’ll look back with a thoughtful, intelligent gaze, mindful that you’re another individual. Look deeper and you may discern the reflected pain and suffering of Rwanda’s recent past, but also the very real hope for future generations. One thing is certain, though: to meet and engage with the mountaingorilla families of the Virungas transcends any other wildlife experience on the planet.

K E N YA & R WA N D A

Kicheche camp

WHEN TO GO Kenya’s wildebeest migration is at its most dynamic from mid-July to lateSeptember, when weather conditions are coincidentally perfect.

ETHIOPIA

The mountain gorillas of Rwanda can be tracked year round. There is always the chance of rain (in the rainforest!), more so during the months of April and May. JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

M AY

JUN

JUL

AUG

SEP

OCT

NOV

DEC

SOUTH SUDAN

UGANDA

HIGHLIGHTS Watch vast herds of migrating wildebeest take the plunge as they battle for survival in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Visit the Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali for an essential, albeit harrowing, education on the roots of the atrocity and national reconciliation. Get up close and personal with the endangered mountain gorilla in the Virunga volcanoes of Rwanda.

K E N YA

Virunga Mountains

Lake Victoria

Maasai Mara Nairobi National Reserve

Kigali

RWANDA

Mt. Kilimanjaro National Park

BURUNDI

PRICES/ITINERARY A nine-night ‘Kenya and Rwanda’ itinerary, with three nights at both Kicheche Mara and Virunga Lodge, costs from £5,975* per person, including two gorilla permits and flights.

TA N Z A N I A

*Costs are based on travel in the peak-season summer months.

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GO MOBILE I N B O T S WA N A J O I N I N G A S M A L L G R O U P O N A T E N T E D S A FA R I T H R O U G H S AV U T I A N D T H E O K AVA N G O D E LTA I S A U N I Q U E A N D U N F O R G E T TA B L E E X P E R I E N C E . I T ’ S A L S O S U R P R I S I N G LY G O O D VA L U E F O R M O N E Y.

The theatre for this unique adventure is the Okavango Delta and Savuti, where a myriad rivers, lagoons, channels and forested islands support an abundance of exotic bird and mammal life. The safari – combining traditional mobile camping with a permanent lodge – follows in the footsteps of the Africa explorers of yesteryear, bringing you as close as is possible to nature in these remarkable landscapes.

With none of the restrictions of a permanent camp, you travel with your own luxury tents and support staff, accompanied by experienced professional guide Robert Barber. Rob has guided all over Africa and has been leading safaris in Botswana for more than 10 years. His greatest passion is tracking leopard and wild dog, and he is a wonderful travelling companion whose love and understanding of the bush will add a unique dimension to the safari.

The safari will take you from the gamerich Khwai River area near the Moremi Game Reserve to the world-renowned Savuti Channel that runs through the heart of the Chobe National Park. You will also have two nights in the Okavango Delta at a wonderfully located permanent lodge while the mobile camp is moved. Bush walks and mokoro (dug-out canoe) rides here will allow you to experience the magic of this wetland paradise and most outstanding of Botswana’s natural wonders.

8-NIGHT

‘ B O T S W A N A’ FROM £4,395 PER PERSON

B O T S W A N A

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Yaounde

Malabo

Uganda Sao Tome

Eq. Guinea Lib reville

Sao Tome and Principe

Kampala Congo

Nai

Gabon

Brazz aville

Kigali Rwanda Bujumbura

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO

Kinshasa

Burundi TANZANIA

Luanda

The mobile camp itself consists of large Meru-style tents with private en-suite long-drop loos and bucket showers. Proper beds with linen and duvets are provided, as are all meals and drinks. Given that such safaris are often prohibitively expensive, our prices represent real value for money and, with only eight places available on each, we expect both departures to fill quickly. So please do not delay in making your mind up!

‘ Bush walks and mokoro rides here will allow you to experience the magic of this wetland paradise and most outstanding of Botswana’s natural wonders.’

MALAWI

Lilongwe

ANGOLA

Chobe National Park

ZIMBABWE T O U R D E TA I L S Dates: 21 – 31 March 2015 Price: £4,395 per person Single supplement: free of charge

NAMIBIA

Okavango Delta

BOTSWANA

Dates: 4 – 14 July 2015 Price: £4,995 per person Single supplement: £295

MOZAMBIQUE

Dates: 5 – 15 September 2015 Price: £4,995 per person Single supplement: £225

SOUTH AFRICA

Your safari guide on all three departures is Robert Barber.

SWAZILAND

Note: the safari can be extended to include, for example, a few days at the Victoria Falls or across the border in Namibia. Other dates and private departures available.

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Port Elizabeth

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BOTSWANA

Desroches Island

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INDIAN OCEAN ESCAPES WHETHER YOU’RE ARRIVING FROM THE CONCRETE JUNGLE OR FROM THE PLAINS OF AFRICA, THE INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS ARE THE PERFECT PLACE T O D U S T O F F A N D W A S H A W AY T H E W O R L D .

East of the African mainland, the Indian Ocean is scattered with tropical islands and archipelagos. Aside from their gorgeous natural assets, many are home to idyllic places to stay where you can savour life as a castaway but in the lap of luxury. They also offer the perfect antidote to a hectic world and the rigours of an African safari. MAURITIUS There’s a spine of spiky highlands, acre upon acre of sugar cane, a lush southwest corner, several enticing beaches and a climate that gives it year-round appeal. But what Mauritius does best of all is hotels, which has much to do with the delightful Mauritians who work there. Where to stay For traditional elegance we recommend the Royal Palm (nicknamed the ‘Royal Calm’), the island’s quietly spoken aristocrat being a sanctuary of good taste. For utter seclusion it has to be Le Prince Maurice, one of the island’s only two Relais & Châteaux members, which is cushioned from the real world by 60 acres of matted greenery. For romance we’d probably favour

Maradiva, a villa-only hotel, each with a private patch of garden, plunge pool and double daybed. And for sheer glamour, the One&Only Le Saint Geran presides over a mile of superb beach and has such a mouthwatering menu of in-house activities that most guests never leave the hotel. When to go Year round. The weather – and the sea – are cooler from April to August, so better to stay in the north or west of the island and be sheltered from the prevailing easterly winds during these months. January to March is hotter and more humid, but the same winds take the edge off the heat on the east coast. These are also the wettest months, especially in the south and south west, although most rain falls in short, heavy bouts, leaving the island smelling ‘like a rich fruit cake newly out of the oven,’ according to Gerald Durrell. Cyclones can also occur in February.

Just 20 miles off the coast of Tanzania, Zanzibar stands at the crossroads of ancient trade routes between Africa, Asia and the Orient and was once the centre of the slave trade. The ‘Spice Islands’, as Zanzibar and its neighbours Pemba and Mafia are known, have been luring travellers for centuries and continue to do so with their enticing blend of white-sand beaches, distinctive history and great diving. Where to stay Our top three picks are the Arabic-style retreat of Baraza; the new all-villa resort of White Sand on gorgeous Paje beach; and Pongwe Beach Hotel, more affordable and with just 16 cottages. When to go Best to avoid the so-called ‘long rains’ between mid-March and the end of May. The ‘short rains’ in November and December are less of an issue.

This page 1. White Sand Resort, Zanzibar 2. Four Seasons on Petite Anse Bay, Seychelles 3. Maradiva, Mauritius Opposite 4. Vamizi Island Lodge, Mozambique 5. Desroches Island, Seychelles 6. North Island, Seychelles

‘ A hundred of the most beautiful islands in the world lie scattered across the Indian Ocean.’

ZANZIBAR

INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

K E N YA INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS TA N Z A N I A ZANZIBAR

Denis Island (30 mins) 5

QUIRIMBA ISLANDS

North Island Praslin

MOZAMBIQUE

THE SEYCHELLES

Mahé Island

MADAGASCAR

Desroches Island (40 mins)

BAZARUTO

MOZAMBIQUE

THE SEYCHELLES

Lying just off the northern coast of Mozambique, the Quirimbas Archipelago is a beautiful, jewel-like string of islands that remain ecologically pristine and largely unexplored. Green and hawksbill turtles, whale sharks, dugongs, dolphins, manta rays and humpback whales, together with 350 species of fish, thrive on the coral reefs and are well protected by the islands’ status as a National Park.

A hundred of the most beautiful islands in the world lie scattered across the Indian Ocean, with an abundance of wonderful beaches, friendly, laid-back locals and very good food. While the Seychelles will always be synonymous with romance, nature lovers will also appreciate its numerous reserves, exceptional birding and amazing diversity of marine life, which includes the giant tortoise.

Where to stay Vamizi Island Lodge, an escapist sanctuary of idyllic luxury on its own eightby-one-mile island close to the Tanzanian border and memorably described by AA Gill as a ‘pearl in a thousand miles of crushed shell’, or Ibo Island Lodge, created from the restoration of three seafront mansions and an intrinsic part of the island’s distinctive culture. Alternatively, there’s the more southerly Bazaruto Archipelago, where Azura Benguerra Island would be our first choice.

Where to stay A number of very exclusive private-island resorts have gilded this exotic lily, but in the nicest possible way. North Island promises the ultimate in barefoot luxury, plus the peace of mind in knowing that everything is included (even diving and a half day’s deep-sea fishing), albeit with a very hefty price tag! Desroches, the largest of the Amirantes outer islands, is encircled by 10 miles of pristine whitesand beach and coral reef abounding with colourful marine life. Denis Island offers a simpler, more low-key experience.

On the main islands of Mahe and Praslin, we recommend the Four Seasons on Petite Anse Bay and the Constance resort of Lemuria, respectively. When to go The Seychelles are at their best in our summer months, although the tropical climate is pleasant year round.

When to go Best from mid-March through November.

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INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS

THE U L T I M AT E CHALLENGE F O R M E R W E L S H R U G B Y U N I O N I N T E R N AT I O N A L M I K E H A L L HAS JUST RETURNED FROM HIS THIRD CHARITY CHALLENGE IN AID OF THE VELINDRE CANCER CENTRE, ALONGSIDE FELLOW EX-WELSH R U G B Y C A P TA I N S J O N AT H A N D AV I E S A N D M A R T Y N W I L L I A M S . WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO FIND OUT MORE.

Opposite 1. Mount Pumori, Everest region 2. Borneo, Mount Kinabalu 3. Cycling in Laos This page 4. Dom Pickett 50m from the summit of Mount Everest 5. Sunrise on Everest at 8,848m

This page 1. Mike Hall, Jonathan Davies and Martyn Williams Opposite 2. Yosemite National Park, USA 3. The summit of Kilimanjaro

T H E U LT I M A T E C H A L L E N G E

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Mike Hall began his international career against the All Blacks in May 1988, aged just 22. A year later he toured Australia with the British Lions, who went on to win the series. His final appearance came during the 1995 Rugby World Cup – famously hosted and won by South Africa – where he captained Wales against Ireland. Today, Hall is a successful property developer and part-time rugby pundit, as well as a committed ambassador for the Velindre Cancer Centre in Wales. How did you get involved with Velindre? I was one of 15 former Welsh rugby captains recruited by Huw Evans (WRU photographer) to take part in the Captains’ Climb of Kilimanjaro and raise money for Velindre. Huw was helping the hospital as they were treating his wife, Sue, for lung cancer. Very sadly, she has since passed away. What difference do the Challenges make to Velindre? The Challenges make a huge difference to the hospital, raising millions of pounds for much-needed research, and giving Velindre media exposure to help raise funds in other areas.

‘ [My advice is] take the physical side of the Challenge seriously and prepare properly. If you have trained you will enjoy the experience a whole lot more.’

How did you feel when you crossed both the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and the Brooklyn Bridge in New York? Crossing both bridges was a fantastic feeling (except for my rear) as they were the finish line on two epic and tough cycle rides. What’s your advice to anyone thinking of joining an Ultimate Challenge? Take the physical side of the Challenge seriously and prepare properly. If you have trained you will enjoy the experience a whole lot more.

About the Velindre Cancer Centre The Velindre Cancer Centre is the largest non-surgical cancer hospital in Wales, providing radiotherapy, chemotherapy and other specialised anti-cancer treatments for over half the people diagnosed with cancer in Wales. This year, it is estimated there will be a 30% increase in the most common types of cancers in Wales. Velindre is determined to raise the money necessary to enable them to meet these new challenges.

What has been your favourite moment on any of the Challenges you have been on? I think standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro just after sunrise was the most memorable. The trek is a serious physical and mental challenge, and to complete it gives a real sense of achievement. What are the people like on the Challenges? People who undertake the Challenges come from all walks of life, from professional athletes to the nurses who work at the sharp end in the hospital. I think the wonderful thing about the Challenges is meeting so many people from different backgrounds who come together to share one common aim – to complete the challenge and raise money, whilst having some fun along the way. How fit do you need to be? You need to be fit, and prepared; it makes the whole experience a lot more rewarding. FIND OUT MORE Want to know more about how you can join a Challenge? Speak to our dedicated Charity Team on 020 3740 1478, or email events@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk

WHY JOIN ONE OF OUR U LT I M AT E C H A L L E N G E S ? •W e have 15 years’ experience organising overseas events. •O ur team has a deep-rooted background in philanthropy, having worked closely with many major UK charities. •W e offer dedicated support and advice on every aspect of your Challenge. •O ur exciting and inspiring Challenges span more than 40 countries worldwide. •D o you have an idea for a new Challenge? Then please get in touch and we’ll do all we can to make it happen! www.ultimatechallenges.co.uk

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NOTICE B OA R D THE UNSUNG HEROES O F C O N S E R VAT I O N Shining a light on Africa’s unsung conservation heroes, the 2014 Tusk Awards were presented by Tusk Royal Patron the Duke of Cambridge. The Prince William Award for Conservation in Africa went to Kenya’s Richard Bonham, while Herizo Andrianandrasana received the rising star Tusk Award and a standing ovation for his groundbreaking work in Madagascar. The Ultimate Travel Company is a proud supporter of Tusk’s conservation initiatives across Africa.

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BAKING IT BETTER FOR GOSH In mid-October, Anna Cecil and her team of ‘Merry Mary Berry Bakers’ in the Africa department set up the Ultimate Bakery, joining forces with many others throughout the country to raise money for Great Ormond Street Hospital during ‘Bake it Better’ week.

CHARITY L I V E LY M I N D S I N U G A N D A Lively Minds works in some of Uganda’s most deprived rural villages, where children don’t have access to even the most basic education. We are proud to support Lively Minds and to date have helped the charity train 33 vulnerable mothers from Idoome village and run an educational Play Scheme for 160 pre-school children. It is hoped the initiative will run for many years and allow hundreds more children to escape from a life of poverty.

Their fresh rolls and bread loaves were in high demand, the lemon drizzle cake was the first to sell out, and gluten-free banana cake kept the health-conscious happy throughout the day. It was a huge success and raised over £350, which will help fund the building of a modern, state-of-the-art clinic at GOSH. Anna and her family continue to fundraise for the Isla Cecil Brighter Future Fund, which has to date accumulated more than £600,000. Most of this money has gone towards the development of a groundbreaking, platinum research programme into rare childhood brain tumours. www.islasbrighterfuture.com

We are delighted to report that the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust Expedition to Indonesia was an unqualified success. Three years in the planning, the aim of the expedition was to release four Bali starlings into the wild and visit the Bali Starling Conservation Project run by the Friends of the National Parks Foundation (FNPF) on the island of Nusa Penida. The expedition paid for the breeding of these beautiful snow-white creatures by the FNPF, and their release, from boxes adorned with both the Ultimate Travel and Durrell logos, was expertly organised by the Foundation’s wonderful and dedicated CEO, Dr Bayu. The island’s Governor and the Head of its Parliament welcomed and then escorted our party (all wearing recently purchased sarongs) to the local temple for the releasing ceremony, where the resident holy man blessed the birds (and us!) with a generous sprinkling of holy water and rice. They had never been visited in this way before, and it was an unforgettably moving occasion for all.

If you’re planning a trip to Uganda, Lively Minds would be more than happy to show you around the project and explain its work in full. www.livelyminds.org

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Nyhavn in Copenhagen

JOURNEYS A NEW NORDIC EXPRESS The legendary Venice Simplon-Orient Express has recently launched a new programme of four-night ‘Nordic Adventures’. Linking Venice with Copenhagen and Stockholm via Austria and Germany, this unusual journey includes two nights aboard the train and at the Marriott Hotel in Copenhagen, with sightseeing excursions and an exclusive gala dinner included. Prices start at £4,500 per person.

D I S C O V E RY I N T H E I C E BRAHMAPUTRA BOUND Pandaw River Expeditions is set to start a new eight-day Brahmaputra cruise in March aboard MV Mahabaahu. Custom-built to sail the river and with just 23 staterooms, she promises a luxurious but off-the-beaten track experience in India’s north-eastern state of Assam. The Brahmaputra is the only navigable river in the world from which the snow-capped Himalaya can be seen, but with luck guests will also see rhino, buffalo and tiger on elephant safaris through the Kaziranga National Park and meet with the Mishing tribes living on Majuli, the world’s second largest riverine island.

Last September, Sir John Franklin’s fabled HMS Erebus, which disappeared with all crew while exploring the Northwest Passage in 1845, was found just off King William Island. William Battersby, who has written extensively about Franklin’s expeditions, describes the find as ‘the biggest archaeological discovery the world has seen since the opening of Tutankhamun’s tomb’. One Ocean Expeditions, a privately owned Canadian outfit operating cruises to both the Arctic and Antarctica, maintains that the discovery ‘will undoubtedly provoke an increase in consumer awareness and interest in the region’. We have therefore decided to charter one of its ships for an exclusive cruise through the Northwest Passage in August 2017. Please contact Nick Van Gruisen for further details.

THE TRUFFLE HOP Everything you need to know about ‘le trufficulture’ – hunting the truffle with the pig, cooking the truffled foie gras, eating the truffled dinner and visiting the renowned truffle market at Lalbenque. Your hosts are James and Diana Tamlyn, who moved to France nearly 20 years ago, and your accommodation Le Vert, a charming Quercy stone ‘manoir’ in the heart of the Périgord countryside. The ‘hop’ covers only 11 miles in five days, making this a rare but very feasible opportunity to get to grips with one of the wonders of the gastronomic world. 2015 dates: 7–11 February, 11–14 February and 14–18 February. Costs from £1,275 per person, including flights to Toulouse.

OZ ON TRACK The Ghan, the legendary Australian train that has been traversing the heart of the country between Adelaide and Darwin for the past 80 years, is expanding its programme to incorporate regular stops at Coober Pedy. Passengers will stay an extra night and day in Coober Pedy – the ‘opal mining capital of the world’ – and join tours of its unique network of underground ‘dugouts’, built to protect residents from the blazing heat of summer.

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NOTICE B OA R D CONTINUED PA L A Z Z O M A R G H E R I TA , S O U T H E R N I TA LY

HOTELS & RESORTS A R R I V E & PA L O M A R , PA L M S P R I N G S , U S A Two new hotels will open this summer in the desert resort of Palm Springs, California. Arrive, a 32-room boutique property owned by one of the first employees of Facebook, Ezra Callahan, and located in the highly desirable Uptown Design District, will see smartphones function as room keys and is set to feature live poolside music year round. According to Ezra, it will ‘appeal to travellers influenced by style, design and culture’. Palomar will feature a lively rooftop bar and pool, the first of its kind in Palm Springs. One hundred miles east of Los Angeles, Palm Springs is a desert playground with year-round sunshine and stunning natural beauty. Nestled beneath California’s San Jacinto Mountains, the city is famed for its Hollywood legacy, Native American heritage, hiking trails and access to the nearby Joshua Tree National Park.

Francis Ford Coppola is fast becoming as famous an hotelier as film director. Already the proud owner of Turtle Inn and Blancaneaux Lodge in Belize, La Lancha in Guatemala and Jardin Escondido in Buenos Aires, in 2012 he opened his first and (so far) only European property, the beautiful Palazzo Margherita. To date, however, it has remained somewhat under the radar of the UK market. Located in the town of Bernalda in Basilicata, a relatively undiscovered area of southern Italy and home to his grandfather, Agostino Coppola, the palazzo was built by the Margherita family in 1892. Coppola bought it in 2004 and then spent the next eight years transforming it into a luxurious, nine-room boutique hotel.

J A W A I L E O PA R D C A M P, I N D I A Sujan Luxury’s Jawai Leopard Camp stands out as one of the more impressive recent openings in the Indian subcontinent. With just eight luxury tents and set in the craggy heart of the Aravalli Hills, the camp is within easy reach of Udaipur and so can be included in any Rajasthan itinerary. In addition to crocodile, hyena, jackal and a host of migratory birds, a record 32 separate leopard sightings were recorded in the opening month. So the perfect ‘wildlife and wilderness’ interlude amidst all the culture! Sujan Luxury is also planning to open a new property in Jaipur, the Rajmahal Palace.

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FLIGHTS Nova Scotia, Canada

GLASGOW TO C A N A D A G E TA W AY Canadian airline Westjet has confirmed that it will operate direct flights from Glasgow to Halifax this summer. The capital of Nova Scotia, a province with strong cultural ties to Scotland and 4,600 miles of undiscovered coastline, Halifax will now be just a five-hour flight from the UK.

L I T E R AT U R E SUPERCHARGE Y O U R S A FA R I The ‘big five’ before breakfast, campfire dinners, a front-row seat for the migration: these are all ingredients of a great safari. But throw a worldclass guide into the mix and a great safari will quickly become the trip of a lifetime.

V I C FA L L S DIRECT Brits will soon be able to fly direct to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, when an international airport opens this summer at Victoria Falls. Capable of landing and handling wide-body jets (including the A380), the airport will turn Victoria Falls into a new regional hub, as well as providing easier access to the Falls themselves and the wildlife reserves on their doorstep.

In her new book, Legendary Safari Guides, aficionado Susie Cazenove talks of how the right guide can ‘make the difference between a perfectly good holiday and a life-changing experience’. Alongside Susie’s living legends – true safari originals such as Kenya pioneer Ron Beaton and Robin Pope of Zambia walking fame – is a new wave of equally passionate young stars in the making. So why not let us introduce you to the pick of this new generation? Anthony ‘Ant’ Kaschula, for example, very much at home across his native Zimbabwe, and Betty Nayiandi Maitai, one of the very first Maasai women to qualify as a professional guide and who would love to welcome you to Richard’s Camp in the Mara.

Legendary Safari Guides Published by Bookstorm, £13.95

Marina Ba

y Sands, Si

ngapore

AIR NZ AND SINGAPORE AIRLINES JOIN FORCES

E X C L U S I V E C O U N T RY L I F E SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Treat yourself to a Country Life subscription and save up to 40 per cent. Have the very best of British life delivered to your door every week, from just £29.24. Plus, every print subscription comes with a free digital trial version for iPad and iPhone. To redeem this exclusive offer call 0330 333 4555 and quote code BTC4, or visit www.magazinesdirect.com/BTC4.

Air New Zealand and Singapore Airlines have teamed up to operate codeshare services on each other’s flights to Auckland and Christchurch via Singapore from 6 January 2015. This initiative will help clarify routes at the booking stage and improve coordination with luggage handling, making transfers between connecting flights much less time-consuming.

Stop press: Do take a look at the enclosed mini brochure, which showcases Kangaroo Island and the very best of South Australia.

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J A N U A RY 2 0 1 5 D E S T I N AT I O N S T O S T A R T Y O U R J O U R N E Y, S P E A K T O A N E X P E R T ON +44 (0)20 3740 1478 OR VISIT W W W . T H E U L T I M A T E T R A V E L C O M P A N Y. C O . U K U LT I M AT E I D E A S D E S T I N AT I O N I N D E X D E S T I N AT I O N A R T I C L E

Antarctica Australia Botswana Brazil British Virgin Islands Burma California Canada Caribbean Chile France Galapagos Islands India Indonesia Italy Kenya Maldives Mauritius Morocco Mozambique Nepal New Zealand Peru Russia Rwanda Seychelles South Africa Tanzania Turkey Zanzibar Zimbabwe

Escorted Journeys: The Directors’ Selection A New Taste of Australia Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Notice Board The Ultimate Selection Go Mobile in Botswana The Ultimate Selection Discover the British Virgin Islands Escorted Journeys: The Directors’ Selection The Ultimate American Road Trip Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Wild Style in Canada The Ultimate Selection Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Introducing Chile Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Hotels: Best of Both Worlds Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Galapagos Islands, Ahoy! The Ultimate Selection Focus on Indonesia Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Hotels: Best of Both Worlds Escorted Journeys From the Maasai Mara to the Virungas Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Indian Ocean Escapes Hotels: Best of Both Worlds Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Indian Ocean Escapes Escorted Journeys: The Directors’ Selection Escorted Journeys Peru: From The Andes to The Amazon Escorted Journeys From the Maasai Mara to the Virungas Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Indian Ocean Escapes Hotels: Best of Both Worlds Top 10 Honeymoon Sweetspots Hotels: Best of Both Worlds Indian Ocean Escapes Escorted Journeys: The Directors’ Selection

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A C O L L E C T I O N O F C A R E F U L LY S E L E C T E D E S C O RT E D J O U R N E Y S T H AT W I L L R E D E F I N E T H E WAY YO U D I S C OV E R T H E WO R L D. I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H

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I N T I M AT E , I N S P I R I N G A N D I N T E L L E C T U A L LY I N V I G O R AT I N G , THESE EXCLUSIVE TOURS ARE LIMITED TO A MA XIMUM OF 20 GUESTS TO ENSURE A VERY PERSONAL AND INCLUSIVE EXPERIENCE.

We have a number of new departures planned for 2015/16 including a tour to St Petersburg with Tania Illingworth in February 2016 to discover the treasures of the Tsars.

C O N TA C T U S +44 (0)20 3733 1902 W W W . T H E U LT I M AT E T R A V E L C O M P A N Y. C O . U K / C O U N T R Y L I F E T O U R S

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