Ultimate Ideas | January 2016 by The Ultimate Travel Company

U LT I M AT E IDEAS I N S P I R A T I O N F R O M T H E U L T I M A T E T R AV E L C O M P A N Y

IRAN REDISCOVERED S Y LV I E F R A N Q U E T REVEALS A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR THIS MIDDLE EASTERN GEM

S TA R T E R F O R Z E N O U R J A PA N E X P E R T DAN MILLS GIVES F I R S T- T I M E R S A L L THE ANSWERS

POLE POSITION BEFORE HEADING NORTH OR SOUTH GET THE LOWDOWN ON BOTH POLES

REEF ENCOUNTERS WE OFFER A LITTLE PERSPECTIVE ON T H E G R E AT BARRIER REEF

RIVER CRUISES FA M I LY R E S O R T S ESCORTED TOURS AND MORE

AT H O M E I N THE BUSH OUR AFRICAN EXPERTS PICK A FEW O F T H E I R FAV O U R I T E S A FA R I R E T R E AT S

T H E U L T I M AT E T R AV E L EXPERIENCE TA I L O R - M A D E T R AV E L , E S C O R T E D T O U R S A N D L U X U R Y B R E A K S , E X C L U S I V E LY F O R Y O U . Whether that means tracking the big five on a tailor-made safari or taking a private tour of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prestigious art galleries; embarking on an epic journey to Antarctica or staying in a luxury villa on the Amalfi Coast... we have the expertise to create all kinds of travel experiences for you. S P E A K T O O N E O F O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S T O D AY +44 (0)20 3740 1478

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U LT I M AT E I D E A S The Ultimate Travel Company 25–27 Vanston Place London SW6 1AZ T: +44 (0)20 7386 4646 E: e nquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk Advertising enquiries enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk Reader enquiries enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk

CHRIS CALDICOTT

A L I S O N W E LT O N

Travel writer, foodie and regular Ultimate Ideas contributor Chris Caldicott recalls some memorable dishes from his trips around the world (Food, Glorious Food! on page 48) before leading two Escorted Tours to Vietnam and India.

English Literature undergraduate, and aspiring travel journalist, Alice Welton took a break from her studies at Edinburgh University to visit Morocco during Ramadan. She relives the experience in Ramadan in Marrakech on page 36.

Ultimate Ideas is produced for The Ultimate Travel Company by Spinach Publishing Zetland House 5–25 Scrutton Street London EC2A 4HJ T: +44 (0)20 7739 2777 E: info@spinachpublishing.com www.spinachpublishing.com

S Y LV I E F R A N Q U E T

DAN MILLS

Sylvie Franquet studied Arabic and Islamic Studies at Ghent and Cairo universities. She has written at length about the Middle East and shares her new-found passion for Iran in Iran: A New Frontier on page 54.

Our resident Asia specialist Dan Mills calls on his experience travelling around Japan to answer the most common questions posed by first timers to the country. Find out what he has to say in Japan: Your Questions Answered on page 26.

CONTRIBUTORS

HELLO! I T ’ S D I F F I C U LT T O B E L I E V E W E ’ L L B E C E L E B R AT I N G O U R 2 5 T H A N N I V E R S A RY T H I S Y E A R . In some ways it feels like only yesterday that we started the company, in a basement office on London’s Gloucester Road, trading as Worldwide Journeys and Expeditions. Not a very catchy name, but one that encompassed a vision of what we hoped to achieve - to create exciting adventures throughout the world, designed around a highly personalised service and an in-depth knowledge of each and every destination. Our name has since changed, and we have grown - our portfolio now spans the globe, from Antarctica to Zimbabwe. Our core values, though, remain the same. First and foremost, we listen to you. Only when we know exactly what you want from your holiday do we set about constructing the perfect itinerary. That may be an African safari, an island hop around the Galapagos, a coastal drive in California, a romantic weekend in one of Europe’s historic capitals, or an Escorted Tour of Iran, this year’s hot new destination. Wherever and whatever, you can be certain that our focus and attention to detail will not waver. We also like to think that our new name better reflects our commitment to provide you with not just a holiday but the Ultimate travel experience which may explain why so many of our clients come back to us to plan their next adventure. So thank you all for being so supportive and for making the past 25 years such fun and pass so quickly. As you may have seen, we are The Ultimate Travel Company for a reason, and we would love the opportunity to show you why - either again or for the first time. With my best wishes for a happy and prosperous New Year.

N I C K VA N G R U I S E N MANAGING DIRECTOR

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

CONTENTS From the rugged natural wonders of Australia, America and the Arctic to rich cultural epicentres in the Far and Middle East, we’ve travelled the world to bring you this issue of Ultimate Ideas.

06 What’s New, What’s Hot in 2016 Hotel openings, updates and travel news from around the world.

Poles Apart ‘Take off from the UK around lunchtime and you can be north of the Arctic Circle before sunset’ 74

Parks Parade ‘ All together, America’s National Parks occupy more space than the whole of the UK’

10 Escorted Tours Exceptional Escorted Tours to China, Boston and more, led by our destination experts and Ultimate directors.

18 Views with a Room Four of our destination experts pick their favourites… 20 Island Escapes Leave the cold behind and find yourself the perfect luxury island retreat. 20

26 Japan: Your Questions Answered Our Asia expert Dan Mills responds to your most frequently asked questions. 30 Parks Parade (USA): Six of the Best National Parks Join us on a whistle-stop tour of America’s most iconic National Parks.

Island Escapes ‘As well as sunshine, balmy seas and sandy beaches, Bequia offers a real sense of place’ 50

36 Eyewitness: Ramadan in Marrakech Ultimate client Alice Welton relives a memorable trip to Morocco. 38 The Great Barrier Reef We share the best ways to see one of the greatest spectacles on earth. 42 Ultimate Safari Retreats Africa [cover] Our safari consultants choose their favourite bush hideaways.

58 Go with the Flow River-borne adventures across Central Europe, Southeast Asia and South America. 64 Waterfalls of the World We pinpoint the most dramatic waterfalls on the planet.

48 Food, Glorious Food! Travel writer and foodie Chris Caldicott recalls a few memorable dishes from his world travels.

68 Europe’s Family-Friendly Resorts Our pick of the best short-haul resorts, where fun for all isn’t a fantasy.

50 Flying Down to Rio Our guide to the best the city has to offer - before, during and after the Olympics.

74 Poles Apart North or South? Follow our guide and decide which pole is right for you.

54 Iran: A New Frontier Middle East expert Sylvie Franquet shares her new-found passion for this magical country.

80 Destinations Index Every destination featured in this issue with corresponding page numbers.

CONTENTS

Flying Down to Rio ‘Copacabana always produces that involuntary “wow”, but leafier Ipanema has far more charm’

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Iran: A New Frontier ‘Tourism will soon spread its wings, with some 400 new hotels planned in the next five years’ Japan: Your Questions Answered ‘Is it true that Japan is one of the most expensive countries in the world?’

Ramadan in Marrakech ‘You may need some stamina to absorb the frenetic activity of the markets’

26 54

Food, Glorious Food! ‘With one crunch I set off a sensational taste explosion of sweet, sour and spicy flavours’

Ultimate Safari Retreats Africa ‘If you want to track mountain gorillas in their natural habitat, Virunga Lodge is the place to be’

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The Great Barrier Reef ‘The most memorable way to enjoy this magnificent theatre of fish and coral is by getting wet’

CONTENTS

W H AT ’ S N E W, W H AT ’ S H O T

2016

Easier Indian visas Travel to India has just got easier! British nationals no longer have to go out of their way to visit one of the India Visa Application Centres, but can now get all their paperwork done online. The process, however, is not without its issues. A client of ours was kind enough to provide these useful (and rather humorous) pointers: Allow several hours, and have pen and paper handy, as you’ll need to write down a reference number. Make sure you have a good computer, and know where you and your parents were born town and country. Do not put Azerbaijan by mistake, as we did. Watch out for slightly hidden questions, some of which - ‘Have you ever been refused an Indian visa?’, for example - are already ticked ‘yes’ by default. Be prepared for the payment not to go through and for everything to be wiped off. Have a large drink ready for when you finish!

Glamping with Indian elephants Just a 30-minute drive from the centre of Jaipur brings you to the Kukas Valley, an area of virgin forest far removed from the bustle of the city. It’s a place where the call of birds takes the place of traffic, making it the perfect spot for Dera Amer, a luxury wilderness camp of four beautifully appointed tents that can be booked by one party only, be it two or eight people. Guests are greeted at the medieval Gopal ji Temple with a traditional Indian welcome, then seated on an elephant, handed a flute of sparkling wine and transported through the pristine valley into camp. There is much to do here: camel safaris, riding, trekking and ‘quality time with your elephant’ are all on the menu, but evenings are especially romantic, with cocktails served around an open fire and meals accompanied by local musicians playing traditional ragas.

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‘ Camel safaris, riding, trekking, hot-air ballooning and “quality time with your elephant” are all on the menu’ Mandarin in Morocco Ten minutes’ drive from the medina and the centre of Marrakech, the newly opened Mandarin Oriental is at the heart of a stunning 50-acre garden that features an olive grove and 100,000 fragrant roses. With 54 walled private-pool villas, three restaurants and a spa, the Mandarin offers a refreshing and secluded alternative to the popular city riads.

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Going green in Sri Lanka Tri Lanka, 20 miles inland from Galle and the south coast, is a new, eco-friendly hotel set on an island promontory overlooking Koggala Lake. Its contemporary design seamlessly blends luxury with sustainability - ‘living’ walls, green roofs, solar-generated hot water, recycled wood,

locally sourced materials and so on and is the first of its kind in Sri Lanka. There are just ten individual villas and suites; facilities include a 21-metre infinity swimming pool, open-sided yoga shala, spa with steam cavern and restaurant serving nutritious fusion cuisine.

Historic Perth

Ethiopia’s ‘Grand Canyon’

COMO the Treasury opened last October in Perth’s newly revitalised historic heart. Nineteenth-century Western Australia state buildings, which included the Cabinet rooms and Treasury, have been turned into a 48-room hotel with swimming pool, two restaurants, spa and yoga studio. Contemporary and beautifully luxurious, the Treasury is COMO’s first venture into Australia and only its fifth urban hotel worldwide.

Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their incredible natural beauty, Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains have been sculpted by 30 million years of up-thrust and erosion into a wonderland of jagged ridges, strange conical mountains and heart-stopping precipices. They are home to such rare species as the Walia ibex and Gelada baboon, variously known as the ‘bleeding heart baboon’ and the ‘lion monkey’ (due to its shaggy coat and the red patch on its chest).

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Perched on the very edge of the escarpment and with a ‘soft opening’ scheduled for early 2016, Limalimo Lodge will be the first of its kind in the Simiens - luxury, eco-friendly, with just 14 rooms and the ideal base from which to explore the national park.

TRAVEL NEWS

W H AT ’ S N E W, W H AT ’ S H O T 2 0 1 6

Illuminating the Outback

Caravaggio’s The Calling of St Matthew

‘Following Caravaggio’ by private jet Welcome to the world of private-jet travel, freed from the constraints and frustrations of scheduled air travel! There are still places available on an exclusive tour taking place 16–24 April 2016 that focuses on the celebrated 16th-century Italian artist Caravaggio and the places most closely associated with his life and works - Rome, Malta and Sicily. Accompanied by a highly experienced team, including NADFAS lecturer Canon Dr Anne Davison, and flying in an all-businessclass private jet, you will enjoy a week of

five-star hotels, first-class restaurants and private excursions designed to give you an intimate insight into this most modern and revolutionary of the celebrated Old Masters.

A monumental artwork, Field of Light, will be created by British artist Bruce Munro in the heart of the Australian Outback. Located in the remote Red Centre, with Uluru on the horizon, the solar-powered installation will open on 1st April 2016 and will remain in situ for a whole year. In keeping with the desert’s vast scale, Munro and his team will install more than 50,000 slender stems crowned with radiant frosted-glass coloured spheres. Connected via illuminated optical fibre, they will ‘bloom’ as darkness falls over Australia’s spiritual heartland. We suggest staying at Ayers Rock Resorts flagship, Sails in the Desert, to see the installation in all its glory.

Piazza del Duomo, Catania

Boating in Brazil Charter Rio Life’s 40-foot catamaran for a one- to three-night cruise on the sheltered-bay waters between Angra dos Reis and Paraty to the west of Rio. With a skipper, chef and host to tend to your every need, it’s the perfect way to explore this paradise of white-sand beach, turquoise water and rainforest island. Costs for a one-night trip start at £1,125 per person for a party of four.

T R A V E L N E W S

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W H AT ’ S N E W, W H AT ’ S H O T 2 0 1 6

Nonstop to Latin America Good news from British Airways: the ‘world’s favourite airline’ is introducing two new nonstop flights from London Gatwick to Costa Rica and Peru in May, thereby obviating the need to change planes in Continental Europe or the US. Flights to San José in Costa Rica, with its nature reserves and Pacific and Caribbean coastlines, will operate twice weekly in the summer and three times a week during winter. Meanwhile, flights to the Peruvian capital Lima will operate three times a week in summer and twice weekly in the winter months.

Liz Bonham will be leading an Escorted Tour to Guatemala and Costa Rica, provisional dates 2–16 February 2017, visiting Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Tikal, Arenal and Tortuguero. Costs to be advised. Leslie Hummel will be leading an Escorted Tour to Peru, provisional dates 29 March – 10 April 2017, visiting Lima, Arequipa, Colca, Puno, Cusco and Machu Picchu. Costs to be advised. Please contact our Escorted Tours team for more details

Aman Japan

Himalayan homestay Escape from Kathmandu and stay at Shivapuri Heights Cottages, a haven of peace and tranquillity, with wonderful views of the valley. It’s only a short drive away, but without the hustle, bustle and urban pollution of the city. Authentic Nepalese hospitality, healthy home-cooked meals, a network of local trails in the surrounding foothills to stretch your legs, and just seven rooms spread across three cottages make this the perfect place to begin your Himalayan adventure. Following the devastating earthquake last April, Shivapuri has been providing assistance to the nearby village of Dadagaun, and The Ultimate Travel Company will contribute a share of its profits from any booking made to the fund.

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Following the launch of Aman Tokyo in December 2014, Amanresorts is set to open a second Japanese property this spring on the shores of Ago Bay (the ‘Bay of Pearls’), in Honshu’s Mie Prefecture. Situated 300km southwest of the capital, Amanemu will be easily accessible via Japan’s high-speed rail network. Celebrating Japan’s ancient onsen (mineral hot spring) tradition in serene natural surroundings, Amanwemu will have 24 suites and four two-bedroomed villas, each with its own onsen, an extensive spa, lap pool, yoga studio, restaurant and lounge.

WA N T T O K N O W M O R E ? S P E A K T O O N E O F O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S +44 (0)20 3740 1478

TRAVEL NEWS

E S C O RT E D TO U R S WE INVITE YOU ON A SELECTION OF EXCEPTIONAL ESCORTED TOURS L E D B Y D E S T I N AT I O N E X P E R T S A N D O U R V E R Y O W N D I R E C T O R S .

Xian’s Terracotta Army

ESCORTED TOURS

Steamed dumplings

Forbidden City, Beijing

Shanghai

Forbidden City

TREASURES OF CHINA

13-NIGHT

‘TREASURES O F C H I N A’ £6,875 PER PERSON

Caroline Courtauld introduces her eagerly awaited tour into the heart of ancient China. Caroline Courtauld, MBE, is a writer, photographer, documentary film producer and researcher. Her latest documentary for PBS (USA), Building China Modern, about celebrity architect I.M. Pei’s Suzhou Museum, has received widespread acclaim. Publications include books on Myanmar, Hong Kong and China, most notably Forbidden City: the Great Within (with accompanying documentary for the Discovery Channel) and Jiangsu Province: Land of Lakes and Classical Gardens. Caroline resides in Hong Kong and London, and in 2014 led a very successful tour to Myanmar for us. 2

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A TRIP TO CHINA is always thrilling: new sights, sounds, smells, extraordinary language, so different to any European experience. And the Treasures of China trip in September 2016 promises to be especially thrilling. We will take in the ‘great’ sites, but include some ‘behind-the-scenes’ treasures that visitors rarely get to see. My own love affair with China - her culture, architecture and gardens - began in the early weeks of 1979. On that freezing January morning, with snow falling, 3 I found myself standing in Tiananmen Square watching a group of elderly men performing balletic t’ai chi movements in the shadow of the Forbidden City’s blood-red walls. In through the Meridian Gate, across the huge courtyard to the Hall of Supreme Harmony, and I was engulfed by the magic and spirits of the past. As Juliet Bredon wrote in 1919, ‘Phantoms move across the flagstones silently in satin-shod shoes,’ and we will have special access to the Forbidden City’s Hall of Mental Cultivation and the private apartments of the Qianlong Emperor (1735–1796), where the past is almost tangible and you can still feel his presence.

Further afield, we will explore the ancient city of Pingyao on foot with an expert from the Global Heritage Fund, and have special access to the pits that hold Xian’s Terracotta Army. In Suzhou, the great literati centre and home of the Chinese garden, we will again go behind the scenes in artist Yeh Fang’s private garden. And in Shanghai, we will be guided around the city’s great museum by a former curator and visit artist Pearl Lam’s apartment. However, we will not devote ourselves entirely to history and culture - Peking, Suzhou and Shanghainese are three of the foremost cuisines of China, and we will have plenty of time to enjoy delicious meals at some of the country’s best restaurants.

T O U R D E TA I L S Dates: 16–29 September 2016 Price: £6,875 per person Single supplement: £1,250 Contact: Emily Pontifex

ESCORTED TOURS

Boston Harbour

D I S C OV E R I N G B O S TO N Liz Bonham invites you to join her in this vibrant East Coast city.

ESCORTED TOURS

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ESCORTED TOURS

Though born and educated on America’s East Coast, Liz Bonham spent most of her holidays with her maternal grandparents in Ayrshire before moving to the UK. Liz has worked in special education, and is keen on tennis, golf and bridge, but her real passion is travel. She has recently led tours to Romania, Syria, Kenya, Myanmar and Croatia for The Ultimate Travel Company.

JFK Library and Musuem

FIVE-NIGHT

‘DISCOVER BOSTON’

IF I COULD CHOOSE any city in the world to visit in late September, Boston would easily top the list. As my brother lives there and I go quite often, you could say I’m a little biased. But there’s no denying that Boston on a clear blue autumnal day, the changing colours of the leaves in the Public Garden and the Red Sox playing baseball in Fenway Park under a fat pumpkin of a moon (as you munch on a hot dog), are all very seductive. Unlike many US cities, Boston is leafy, walkable, historic, culturally rich and packed with museums. Best of these are the I.M. Pei-designed JFK Library and Museum, the Venetian-inspired Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum with its world-class art collection, and the Addison Gallery at the Phillips Academy dedicated to American Art. We will visit all three. To get to grips with the city’s past, we’ll also walk the ‘Freedom Trail’. This dotted red line on the sidewalk steers you through 200 years of American history and links 16 of the main revolutionary sites, including Paul Revere’s House and the Old South Meeting House, where you can still see a vial of tea from the famous tea party. It’s where Americans come to find out why they are American!

Beyond Boston, highlights will include 4 Harvard Campus in neighbouring Cambridge (which might make you long to be a student again), the Blaschka glass flowers in the Harvard Museum of Natural History, and a special walking tour through the city of Salem to learn about the strange history surrounding the infamous Witch Trials of 1692. There will still be time enough to stroll along the Charles River, take in a concert at Symphony Hall or watch that Red Sox game. Boston also scores highly for its seafood and superb shopping, both in terms of choice and price. What more could you ask for?

T O U R D E TA I L S Dates: 29 September – 4 October 2016 Price: £2,695 per person Single supplement: £520 Contact: Flora Scott-Williams

‘ Unlike many US cities, Boston is leafy, walkable, historic, culturally rich and packed with museums’

£2,695 PER PERSON

Old South Meeting House

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Public Garden

ESCORTED TOURS

T H E D I R E C TO R S ’ SELECTION J O I N T H E U LT I M AT E T R AV E L C O M PA N Y ’ S D I R E C T O R S A N D EXPERT GUEST LECTURERS AS THEY JOURNEY TO SOME O F T H E M O S T F A S C I N AT I N G A N D R E M O T E P L A C E S O N E A R T H .

Wild Canada 1–13 September 2016 With David Wickers As co-founder of Bridge & Wickers, I will be at the helm of what should be an exciting journey through Canada’s ‘wild west’ provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. It’s a spectacular corner of the world that I know well, but which never ceases to amaze me. From the handsome water-front city of Vancouver and remote seascapes of the Pacific to the glaciated peaks of the Rocky Mountains, our journey will include scenic jaunts by seaplane, wildlife safaris in rigid inflatables, river-rafting adventures and the fabulously scenic Rocky Mountaineer railway. The scenery may be wild, but the levels of comfort, far from it. We will stay at some of western Canada’s best hotels and also travel ‘Gold Leaf’ class on the train, with its separate dining and ‘bubble’ observation carriages. TOUR PRICE: From £5,995 per person

ESCORTED TOURS

Myanmar: Exploring the Upper Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) 14–27 September 2016 With Amelia Dalton Such has been the overwhelming response to the Belmond Road to Mandalay cruise with Nick and Iris Van Gruisen, which was sold out within weeks of its announcement, that we have decided to charter her sister ship, Belmond Orcaella, for an 11-night cruise from Mandalay to Bagan. With cruise expert Amelia Dalton at the helm, we will discover timeless and enduring landscapes, from the jungle-clad gorges that dominate the upper reaches of the river to the market scenes of Katha as described in George Orwell’s Burmese Days and the ancient capital of Mandalay immortalised by Kipling’s eponymous poem. For many, the high point of the cruise will be the 3,000 temple ruins spread across the great plain of Bagan, but for everyone on board the overwhelming impression will be of a land and a people unchanged by time. TOUR PRICE: From £6,650 per person

Vietnam: Red River and Halong Bay 7–20 October 2016 With Martin Thompson This fascinating journey of discovery will be one of the first opportunities to explore the key sites of Northern Vietnam by river. We will traverse the Red River Delta and its main tributaries, sailing deep into the Vietnamese highlands in search of beautiful mountain villages and remote tribal communities, and connecting the excitement of downtown Hanoi with the wonders of Halong Bay. Our route will take us as far as is navigable up the Song, or Red River, then down the little-known Da, or Black River. ‘Home’ will be the very comfortable RV Angkor Pandaw, the perfect base for our journey, with spacious interior, delicious food and a friendly, enthusiastic crew. We have also been offered exceptional rates for the private charter. With a maximum capacity of 30 guests, and UTC director Martin Thompson on board to ensure everything runs smoothly, this is an adventure not to be missed. TOUR PRICE: From £3,995 per person

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ESCORTED TOURS

The Mekong Delta: Saigon to Angkor

Galapagos: The Enchanted Isles

Arctic: The Northwest Passage

17–30 January 2017 With Nick & Iris Van Gruisen

29 April – 10 May 2017 With Rowan Paterson

This fascinating journey will find Nick and Iris Van Gruisen hosting a private cruise on the mighty Mekong river. Beginning in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) and ending in Phnom Penh, the trip will include an overland detour to Siem Reap and the world-famous temple city of Angkor. We have chartered the brand-new, all-suite Mekong Princess exclusively for the seven-night cruise. With a maximum of 24 passengers in 12 exquisite suites on board, we will explore the sprawling Mekong Delta before heading up river and across the border into Cambodia. Disembarking near Phnom Penh, we then drive to Siem Reap for a fitting finale at the wonderful Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor. Highlights, and there are many, will include the modern-day vibrancy and colonial past of Saigon, a sampan ride through the floating markets of Can Tho, the eccentric Cao Dai Temple and sunrise over the temples of Angkor…magical!

The ‘enchanted isles’ of the Galapagos need little introduction. Located some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador in the Pacific, this archipelago of hauntingly beautiful volcanic islands first came to the world’s attention with the publication of Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species and remains a treasure trove of natural history, wildlife and ecology. Aboard Isabela II, a very comfortable 40-berth vessel that combines the amenities of a small cruise ship with the relaxed intimacy of a private yacht, we will have eight nights to explore the central and southern islands in the company of experienced naturalist guides. May is also a great time to visit, with calm seas and clear skies. Galapagos fauna have little or no fear of man, so we will see all the most iconic species, except for the flightless cormorant, which is found only in the western islands. Unless it learns to fly in the meantime!

11–26 August 2017 With Nick & Iris Van Gruisen and Dr Huw Lewis-Jones The quest for the fabled Northwest Passage, the Arctic trade route to the Indies and China, consumed mariners for centuries. In August 2016, Iris and I will be escorting a two-week expedition through this iconic seaway aboard the Polar research vessel Akademik Ioffe. On what promises to be a truly great seafaring adventure, we will cut through Greenland via one of the world’s longest fjords, navigate past hotel-sized tabular icebergs drifting into Disko Bay, and explore the archipelago of islands and channels that make up Canada’s High Arctic. We will also experience local Inuit culture and have endless opportunities to discover the Arctic’s incredible diversity of wildlife. As well as being the hunting ground of whales and seabirds in staggering numbers, this is the home of the polar bear, barren ground grizzly bear, muskox, caribou and walrus.

TOUR PRICE:

From £6,095 per person

From £6,995 per person

From £8,840 per person

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ESCORTED TOURS

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

PERU A LWAY S A S TO N I S H I N G . AT THIS PRICE, IRRESISTIBLE.

HIGHLIGHTS OF PERU

SAVE £1,450* per couple

The perfect 11 day introduction to this magical Andean country. Halve your journey time by flying non-stop to Lima. Stay at the Explora Valle Sagredo** in the heart of the Sacred Valley and discover its spectacular Inca heritage. From £3,215 per person

Call 0203 7401 4783 *Offer is based on bookings made before 29.02.2016 for travel between 01.07 – 30.11.2016.**Opening July 2016

VIEWS WITH A RO O M F O U R O F O U R D E S T I N AT I O N E X P E R T S P I C K T H E I R FAV O U R I T E S .

1. Six Senses Yao Noi Thailand

2. Stanley’s Camp Botswana

3. Tierra Atacama Chile

Book an Ocean Panorama Pool Villa at this island hideaway and you’ll enjoy 180-degree views of Phang Nga Bay and its surreal limestone karsts. It’s the perfect end to any journey through Southeast Asia.

Get trunk to trunk with the elephants at this classic tented camp on a private wildlife concession in the heart of the Okavango. You don’t even have to move from the deck of your own tent!

If you like your scenery red, rocky and raw, then the beautiful desert oasis of Tierra Atacama, with far-reaching views of Licancabur Volcano, crimson sunsets and the starriest of night skies, is the place for you.

Rob Kent Asia specialist

Victoria Saner Africa specialist

Laura Trace Latin America specialist

VIEWS WITH A ROOM

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4. The Oberoi Amarvilas India All rooms at The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra have views of the Taj, but if you want an extra dollop of indulgent luxury, then book one of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabulous suites. This is the view (right) from the signature Kohinoor Suite. Ayesha Cronin India specialist

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

VIEWS WITH A ROOM

Lord Howe Island, Australia

I S L A N D S , B Y T H E V E R Y N AT U R E O F T H E I R T O P O G R A P H Y, H O L D A S P E C I A L A L L U R E F O R T H O S E W A N T I N G T O B R E A K A W AY F R O M E V E R Y D AY R O U T I N E S AND RESTRAINTS. FOR A MORE MEANINGFUL SENSE OF ESCAPE, YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSIDER ONE OF THESE WORLDWIDE GEMS, SOME OF THEM MORE ‘ON THE MAP’ THAN OTHERS, BUT EACH OF THEM UNIQUE.

FOR SCENERY

Lord Howe Island, Australia Australia’s very own South Sea island may be just a two-hour flight from Sydney, but it’s a place few Australians have visited, let alone the rest of us. Lord Howe is a gem: a World Heritage-listed paradise of volcanic highlands, woodlands, lagoons and coral reefs that are sanctuary to endemic species of wildlife not found anywhere else on earth (including a flightless bird). Little wonder Sir David Attenborough called it ‘so extraordinary it is almost unbelievable’. No more than 400 visitors are allowed on the island at any one time. With a population of around 360, one policeman, no mobile phones, hardly any cars and a speed limit of 15mph on the six miles of road, it is a place to escape, to borrow a bicycle, hike the trails, swim and snorkel from gorgeous beaches and fire up one of the communal barbecues. Lord Howe is a stunning, natural ‘beaut’. Stay at the luxurious Capella Lodge, with contemporary ‘beach house’ looks and spectacular views.

‘ No more than 400 visitors are allowed on Lord Howe Island at any one time’ 22

ISLAND ESCAPES

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

FOR A CITY ESCAPE

Waiheke, New Zealand Waiheke is a wonderful world of secluded beaches, forests, farmland and some 30 boutique vineyards (Stonyridge among them) that is enjoyed by a harmonious mix of bolt-holing Kiwis, many of whom have holiday homes, or baches, on the island. Just a ten-minute hop by helicopter or 45-minutes by boat across Hauraki Gulf from Auckland, it is also the perfect antidote to the long flight from the UK. Here, you can catch your breath and ease into the gentle pace of New Zealand. Stay at the nautically themed Boatshed Boutique Hotel, whose owners can arrange anything from vineyard visits and beach picnics to rejuvenating massages.

FOR ANOTHER WORLD

Fogo, Canada In the days when everyone thought the earth was flat, Fogo was considered one of the ‘corners’ of the square (the others being Bermuda, Papua New Guinea and the Greek island of Hydra). Members of the Flat Earth Society are still convinced. But even if you decide against a boat ride, lest you fall off the ‘edge’ of the world, you’ll find Fogo to be delightful, dramatic, different and ever-so-slightly dotty. This little-known island off the coast of Newfoundland really has a story to tell. To reverse Fogo’s fortunes, which had taken a dive when commercial cod fishing was banned, Zita Cobb (born into poverty as one of seven children from a local fishing family) decided to invest her Silicon Valley fortune into building a unique hotel to generate badly needed income. The 29-room Fogo Island Inn is a huge, pale grey, iconic work of architecture, built partly on stilts above the pink granite shore. Step inside and you enter a Scandi-cool world, where every item looks as if it has been sourced from an exclusive gallery of contemporary art. Each of the rooms faces the sea, with floor-to-ceiling windows, and binoculars for sighting whales and icebergs.

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

FOR BEACH AFTER THE BUSH

Pemba, Tanzania To the northeast of Zanzibar, Pemba remains largely undeveloped and devoted to raising cloves for which the ‘spice islands’ are renowned. With direct flights from Dar es Salaam, picture-postcard beaches, excellent snorkelling and diving and rainforests to explore, Pemba is the perfect place to relax and wash away the dust from your East African safari. Stay at The Aiyana, whose 26 suites and four family villas all face the Indian Ocean, with no motorised sports on its reef-protected lagoon to shatter the silence and tranquillity.

ISLAND ESCAPES

FOR THE REAL CARIBBEAN

Bequia, Grenadines

FOR ANCIENT STONES

Although popular with sailors islandhopping their way along the string of Grenadines, Bequia is one of the least-known yet most appealing of all Caribbean islands. As well as the familiar assets of sunshine, balmy seas and sandy beaches, this tiny, seven-squaremile jewel offers a real sense of place. Anyone wanting to plug into island life will simply love this place. Hang out with seafarers and old whalers in the Frangipani bar, enjoy a roti on the waterfront or relax in the centre of Port Elizabeth - it’s where the locals gather to right the world. Bequia also has three beautiful beaches (Princess Margaret, Lower Bay and Friendship Bay), which are either walkable or a nippy ride by water taxi away from Port Elizabeth. Stay at Bequia Beach Hotel, the only luxury resort on the island, overlooking Friendship Bay.

Easter Island, Chile The 900 ‘moai’ that populate this tiny speck of an island rank among the world’s most recognised but least-understood statues. Four metres tall and weighing around 14 tons each, their 16th-century origins still remain a mystery, as do the people who created them. But there is nothing mysterious about Rapa Nui, a stylish and striking property in the Explora portfolio whose rooms look out across the Pacific Ocean and Easter Island’s huge expanse of volcanic wilderness. The hotel, which has 30 suites, plus restaurant, swimming pool and massage room, can arrange expertly guided tours around the island that are designed to unlock the secrets of its megalithic sculptures.

ISLAND ESCAPES

‘As well as the familiar assets of sunshine, balmy seas and sandy beaches, this tiny, sevensquare-mile jewel offers a real sense of place’ U LT I M A T E I D E A S

FOR HISTORY

Nantucket, USA

F O R D I S TA N T L U X U R Y

Sumba, Indonesia If asked to name some of Indonesia’s many islands, most would manage Bali, possibly Lombok and maybe Sumatra or Java, but little else. A few may also have heard of Sumba for ‘The Wave’, a left-hand break with something of a cult status among the global surfing community. But this island to the southeast of Bali, with its traditional thatched hill-top villages, rice paddies, limestone hills and ancient tribal customs, will soon be firmly on the map now that Nihiwatu has metamorphosed from a rustic surfers’ lodge into a luxurious resort with a focus on yoga and meditation. Stay at the serene Nihiwatu resort.

‘ T he Indonesian island of Sumba boasts traditional thatched hilltop villages, rice paddies, limestone hills and ancient tribal customs’

If heaven has a seaside resort, it probably looks a little like Nantucket. The so-called ‘Faraway Island’, with a 14-mile-long-by-four-mile wide elbow of sand lying as far from the mainland as France is from Folkestone, has become one of the most affluent vacation spots in the USA. As well as its premier-league beaches, Nantucket also boasts a fascinating history. Back in the 1800s it was the whaling capital of the world (Melville’s Captain Ahab was a Nantucket man), but with the demise of whaling, the population shrank and the whole place simply settled under a shroud for several decades. This lack of development, at first natural and now rigorously enforced, lies at the root of Nantucket’s success as a destination for the discerning traveller. Today, the island is classified as a National Historic Monument - an America without highways and traffic lights, billboards and shopping malls, KFCs and Starbucks. Stay at one of Nantucket Island Resorts’ many charming cottages, houses, historic inns or hotels.

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ISLAND ESCAPES

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

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Q: I KNOW THAT JAPANESE CULTURE IS VERY DIFFERENT TO OURS AND THAT FEW PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH. WON’T IT FEEL RATHER INTIMIDATING? A: It’s the country’s ‘otherness’ that makes it such a fascinating place to visit. Even though it can be confusing at times, you’ll find that many signs are in English and people are very friendly, courteous and considerate to gaijin (strangers). Crime rates are also reassuringly low. Although we do encourage independent travellers to use the very efficient publictransport system as much as possible when touring Japan (the savings are substantial), we do recommend that you are met on arrival and transferred privately to your first hotel. It is also sensible to have a guided tour the following day to help you orientate and familiarise yourself with your new surroundings. Q: IS IT TRUE THAT JAPAN IS ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD? A: Prices are actually comparable to the UK, even in the big cities. There’s also a wide choice of places to eat, from Michelin-starred haute cuisine to the more affordable, pub-like izakaya, which offer excellent quality and value. Q: WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO? A: The spring is sunny but not too hot, and you’ll find the cherry blossom in full and spectacular bloom from the end of March to mid-April. You will, though, need to book anything up to a year ahead, as it’s a hugely popular time of year to travel. The autumn is also good, with the maple tree the undisputed king of the autumn colours. Summers are wet, and are best avoided. Winters are cold but draw skiers from around the globe to the northern island of Hokkaido, with its powder snow.

HOKKAIDO

J A PA N

HONSHU Kanazawa Takayama

SOUTH KOREA

Hiroshima Miyajima

Tokyo Mount Fuji Kyoto Hakone Osaka Mount Koya

KYUSHU

Previous spread Bamboo forest, Kyoto This page 1. Tokyo skyline and Mount Fuji 2. Traditional ryokan inn

Q: I ONLY HAVE A WEEK - WHERE SHOULD I GO? A: Fly nonstop to Tokyo, spend three nights in the modern, high-octane, neon-bright capital, then board the bullet train to Kyoto for a further three nights in this historic, spiritual home to temples, geishas and gardens. Even with limited time we would encourage you to spend at least one night in a traditional ryokan inn, an utterly foreign, highly confusing but rare and richly rewarding opportunity to experience a way of life that has long been lost to concrete and computers. Q: I COULD PROBABLY MANAGE ANOTHER COUPLE OF DAYS. WHAT WOULD YOU SUGGEST? A: Something more rural and traditional. If you are interested in the spiritual soul of the country, then take the bullet train to Osaka and continue by road to Mount Koya, the country’s Buddhist heartland.

There are numerous monasteries to explore, and you can stay in temple lodges, meeting and eating with the resident monks. The area also offers delightful walks in the forested hills. Alternatively, you can catch the train to the town of Takayama, a delightful mix of old wooden buildings and more contemporary structures, which lies in the shadow of the stunning Japan Alps.

8-NIGHT

‘HIGHLIGHTS O F J A PA N ’ FROM £3,330 PER PERSON

Q: I’D LIKE TO SEE MORE… A: The newest ‘cool’ destination, and easily accessible from Takayama or Tokyo, is Kanazawa, best known for its old Samurai district and boasting one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan. From Kyoto, you could continue by bullet train to Hiroshima, where the Peace Memorial Park and Museum are dedicated to the dark legacy of the city’s atomic bombing, then on to the ‘shrine island’ of Miyajima. Famous for its giant torii gate, which at high tide appears to float

on the water, Miyajima is a laid-back world where you can rent bikes and explore its delightful little streets. You might also want to break your return journey to Tokyo at Hakone for an onsen thermal bath and classic views of Mount Fuji. PRICES / ITINERARY A 8-night ‘Highlights of Japan’ itinerary, combining Tokyo, Kyoto and Hakone, costs from £3,330 per person, including flights and taxes.

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JA PA N

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Virgin Atlantic Upper Class. Effortless travel, your way. Innovative products, a seamless journey and our famously friendly service are all waiting when you fly Upper Class. Relax into the deep recline of your Upper Class Suite. Socialise at the onboard bar. Then enjoy a proper night’s sleep on your fully flat bed.

The Upper Class fully flat bed

Ease into your experience with a complimentary chauffeur driven car* transfer to the airport. Departing from London Heathrow, you glide right up to the Upper Class Wing, where the team greet you and swiftly handle your luggage. Then breeze through our Private Security Channel to the Clubhouse, where you’ll be relaxing within ten minutes. Beautifully designed and welcoming, our Clubhouse is an incredible space to unwind. Sip a cocktail as you take your pick from the creative food and drink menu. At London, you can also enjoy a complimentary treatment or haircut** at the Clubhouse Spa.

The Clubhouse

The Upper Class Suite

Onboard, your Upper Class Suite awaits. Its unique design gives you direct aisle access with the space to relax in privacy and comfort. Inseat power and onboard WiFi mean you can stay connected***.

The Upper Class menu offers an imaginatively designed range of elegant hot and cold dishes, desserts and fine wines to choose from. Cheese and port finish your meal perfectly. After dinner, you can stretch your legs at the onboard bar. It’s your space to socialise or just relax with a drink. Whatever you feel like. When you’re ready, your suite easily transforms into a spacious fully flat bed. Change into your Upper Class sleep suit, settle under the soft duvet and enjoy refreshing, undisturbed sleep. Before we land, we serve you a hot breakfast or light meal, depending on the time of day. *

Chauffeur driven car service available at most destinations with selected Upper Class fares (J, D, I & C class). Mileage restrictions apply. ** Lounge facilities vary at each destination. *** Available on selected flights for a fee.

To find out more, contact The Ultimate Travel Company.

PA R K S PA R A D E S I X O F T H E B E S T N AT I O N A L PA R K S I N A M E R I C A .

‘ T he earth’s undisputed number-one natural wonder; a mile-deep, multicoloured chasm carved into the plateau over some two billion years by the Colorado River.’

WHAT DO THE FOLLOWING have in common? The Statue of Liberty, a long stretch of sandy beach on Cape Cod, a 2,000-mile footpath between Maine and Georgia, the White House, the battlefield of the Little Bighorn in Montana, and the house where Eugene O’Neill penned The Iceman Cometh? They all fall under the protective umbrella of America’s National Parks Service. This year marks the centenary of the ‘Organic Act’ of the US Congress, which created the National Parks Service in order to ‘conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and wildlife therein, and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations’.

Previous spread Grand Canyon, Arizona Opposite Grand Canyon, Arizona This page Everglades, Florida

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Twenty-seven states have national parks, with California having the most (nine), followed by Alaska (eight), Utah (five) and Colorado (four). Together, they occupy more space than the whole of the UK. Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias, the largest at over eight million acres, could absorb each of the nine smallest US states and is nearly three times larger than all the British National Parks put together. The scale and statistics are impressive, but then so is the natural legacy they are designed to protect. Here’s our ‘six of the best’...

1. Grand Canyon, Arizona The earth’s undisputed number-one natural wonder; a mile-deep, multicoloured chasm carved into the plateau over some two billion years by the Colorado River. ‘It’s the one great sight every American should see,’ wrote Theodore Roosevelt. And not just Americans. As well as the jaw-dropping landscape, there’s a choice of active and adventurous approaches that include hikes, mule rides (the Bright Angel Trail to the canyon floor being the most popular) and exhilarating rafting descents of the Colorado’s 150 rapids.

2. Everglades, Florida By way of complete contrast to the theme parks of Orlando and the popular beach resorts along both Atlantic and Gulf coasts, the Everglades is a sub-tropical wilderness of mangroves and sanctuary to a dazzling array of fauna, with crocodiles and manatees the star attractions. Although the pancake-flat scenery may seem a little monotonous in comparison to the peaks and troughs of other parks, its ecosystem is unique. And such is the space and the silence, it’s hard to believe that Miami is just 20 or so miles away.

‘All together, America’s National Parks occupy more space than the whole of the UK’ PA R K S PA R A D E

3. Yellowstone, Wyoming The oldest national park, and most famous for its thermal activity, its hot springs, boiling-mud cauldrons and erupting geysers are an awesome reminder of how violent the earth can be. ‘Old Faithful’ is Yellowstone’s most enduring attraction, a smoking gun that fires its 130-foot plume with clockwork regularity, but the park is also home to more than 60 species of mammal, including wolf, grizzly bear, lynx, bison and elk. 1

4. Shenandoah, Virginia Only a couple of hours by road from Washington, DC, Shenandoah sits astride the wonderfully scenic Skyline Drive that runs for some 100 miles along the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The park is rich in wildlife - residents include black bear and wild turkey - so a 35mph speed limit is imposed throughout.

5. Yosemite, California

3 4 PA R K S PA R A D E

‘Into this one mountain mansion, nature had gathered her choicest treasures,’ wrote Scottish-born 19th-century conservationist John Muir. Perfectly described! Bulldozed by glaciers and defined by mile-high cliffs, dramatic waterfalls, old-growth forests and the iconic granite monoliths of Half Dome and El Capitan, the Yosemite Valley is beyond breathtaking.

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BEST OF THE REST FOR…

20-NIGHT

‘LANDSCAPES OF THE SOUTHWEST’ FROM £3,995 PER PERSON

6. Volcanoes, Hawaii

PRICES / ITINERARY

Hawaii’s Big Island has a pair of super-active volcanoes. Mauna Loa is the world’s largest, measuring an astonishing 31,000 feet from submarine base to summit. Kilauea is its most active, but you can drive around the crater, walk past steaming sulphur vents and watch red-hot lava fizzing into the ocean.

A visit to one or more of the National Parks can be included in any US holiday. For example, a 20-night ‘Landscapes of the Southwest’ itinerary, combining Las Vegas and San Francisco with the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Death Valley and Yosemite, costs from £3,995 per person, including flights and taxes. The itinerary also includes three nights at the idyllic Sorrel River Ranch Resort & Spa on the banks of the Colorado River, in the red, rocky heart of Utah.

WHEN TO GO Season (peak) Everglades Oct–Apr (Nov–Mar) Grand Canyon Apr–Oct (May–Sep) Shenandoah May–Oct (Jun–Aug) Yellowstone May–Oct (Jun–Aug) Yosemite Apr–Oct (Jun–Aug) Volcanoes Jan–Dec (May–Aug) With the exception of Florida’s Everglades (plus Death Valley and Joshua Tree see ‘Best of the Rest’, far right), the most popular time to visit the US and its National Parks is during the summer months. So if you can travel outside the peak months bracketed above, you should avoid the worst of the crowds.

Opposite 1. Yellowstone, Wyoming 2. Shenandoah, Virginia 3. Yosemite, California

Glaciers Watch giant icebergs calving into Alaska’s Glacier Bay (picture above), a dramatic 70-mile-long fjord. Cactus The desert landscape of Joshua Tree near Palm Springs is dotted with distinctive candelabra cactus, as seen on the eponymous U2 album. Coast Acadia is an enchanting blend of island and mainland scenery in the New England state of Maine, with unbeatable seascapes and great lobsters! Heat California’s Death Valley is the hottest, lowest and driest place in the USA, with record temperatures topping an unforgiving 56.7°C. Rocks Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin and Mojave Desert is Zion, a geological wonder of sandstone canyons, mountain mesas and red-rock spires. Trees Sequoia in California’s Sierra Nevada is home to the oldest living things on earth.

This page 4. Kilauea, Hawaii 5. Glacier Bay, Alaska

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EYEWITNESS

R A M A DA N I N MARRAKECH A L I C E W E LT O N H A S E N J O Y E D A N U M B E R O F FA M I LY H O L I D AY S W I T H U S , I N C L U D I N G A N E A S T A F R I C A N S A FA R I , A D E S E R T A D V E N T U R E I N O M A N A N D A L U X U RY E S C A P E T O T H E M A L D I V E S . H E R E , S H E R E C O U N T S A M E M O R A B L E T R I P TO MARRAKECH DURING THE HOLIEST MONTH IN THE MUSLIM CALENDAR.

A trip to Morocco during the holy month of Ramadan may not have been one of my more rational decisions. ‘We’re going to melt!’ exclaimed my friend as we stepped from the aircraft onto the tarmac. Indeed, it was hot enough in mid-July that we completely avoided souvenir shopping during the day, and sporadic opening-andclosing hours meant that food was difficult to find between sunrise and sunset (puffy pastries, stuffed with almonds and lashings

36 MOROCCO

of sugar, became our staple diet). But once the sun had gone down, the release from a day’s fasting diffused into the cooler night breeze and the medina came alive. Sunset was also the cue to head for the night market and soak up the seemingly chaotic mix of activity, topped by boxing matches with no apparent age restrictions and magicians competing for your attention with eggs, fez hats and much indecipherable muttering.

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

S PA I N

Fez

MOROCCO AT L A N T I C

Marrakech

ALGERIA

M A U R I TA N I A

6-NIGHT

‘ U LT I M AT E MOROCCO’ FROM £945 PER PERSON

‘If you want to escape the city heat, then head for the cooler air of the High Atlas’

Opposite 1. Night market, Jemaa el-Fnaa This page 2. Kasbah Bab Ourika, Atlas Mountains 3. Palais Khum, Marrakech

You may need some stamina to absorb it all, so make a pit-stop at Stall No.1, first in line amidst the labyrinth of open-air food outlets on the Jemaa el-Fnaa, for a delicious plate of crispy, crumbly-fresh fish. Or try Cafe Kessabine, a firm favourite with both tourists and locals, where the sticky date and lamb tagine is so good you’ll probably want to order seconds. You can always escape the city heat to head for the cooler air of the High Atlas Mountains and what was cheerfully described by our smooth-talking guide as a ‘light stroll’. Armed with only a bag of dates and a some sun cream, our red-faced enthusiasm quickly evaporated (well, the enthusiasm did) as Hassan led us further and further up a steep ravine. This was no mere stroll, more a full-scale climbing trip. Sadly, we did not possess the same graceful agility as Hassan, who hopped from rock to rock with goat-like ease and clearly revelled in our discomfort. But the mountains were beautiful and, mercifully, significantly cooler.

As a tourist in Marrakech, you can, at times, feel like a walking pound note. The city is, of course, unashamedly geared towards tourism, and yet, at the same time, there’s a strange air of disinterest in its visitors. Merge into the background and, to the men hunched over their backgammon sets on the side of the street, you’ll be just another passer-by. In the clamouring hub of the souk’s late-night rush hour, on the wrong side of the road, you will simply be a target for the wasp-like scooters, to whom right of way is never a question. Make the effort to speak French, too, no matter how bad your accent, and you might even be invited in for a glass of nectar-sweet Berber tea. What makes Marrakech such a magical, moody mystery, especially so during Ramadan, is the heady mix of cinnamon, mint and star anise, the persistent drums, the eerily melodic call to prayer, the wail of the snake charmers and the somehow tangible ambience of a city frenetic with energy yet overflowing with charm.

WHEN TO GO Morocco is a year-round destination, with little annual rainfall and something to do at any time of the year. Marrakech and Fez are best visited from March to April and October to November, the ‘deep south’ from December to February, and the High Atlas from May to September. The Muslim month of Ramadan falls at different times of the year, but starts on 6 June this year and 27 May in 2017. PRICES / ITINERARY A six-night itinerary, with three nights at Palais Khum in Marrakech and three nights at Kasbah Bab Ourika in the High Atlas, costs from £945 per person, including flights and taxes.

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MOROCCO

T H E G R E AT B A R R I E R

REEF

I T ’ S A P L A C E T H AT I N S P I R E S S U P E R L AT I V E S - A N D I N S TA N T LY T R A N S C E N D S T H E M . W E L C O M E T O O N E O F T H E G R E AT E S T S H O W S O N E A R T H .

‘ T he most memorable way to enjoy this magnificent theatre of fish and coral is by getting wet’

AUSTRALIA’S GREAT BARRIER REEF is the largest living thing on our planet, and the only way to see it in its entirety is from outer space. Sharing the superleague of earthly icons with the Himalaya, the Sahara and the Grand Canyon, the 2,300km-long chain of reefs, cays and atolls off the coast of Queensland is visible as a whole only if you become an astronaut. But there are some less taxing alternatives…

A closer encounter The most engaging and memorable way to enjoy this magnificent theatre of kaleidoscopic fish and coral is by getting

G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F

wet. Its underwater beauty is beyond compare, with 20-metre clarity the norm, sometimes up to three times that distance. And much of it has yet to be explored, let alone developed. A World Heritage site, the reef is accessible by boat, seaplane and helicopter from several points along the Queensland coast.

The VIP vantage point The most luxurious way, of course, is to stay at one of the wonderful island resorts. Some stand on the actual reef, others were once part of the mainland but were amputated by melting Ice Age waters

(they have warmed up to body temperature since, so don’t worry). The largest and most popular of the islands belong to the Whitsundays, discovered by Captain Cook on 3 June (Whitsunday), 1770. There are 74 in all, protected as a National Park and little changed since Cook first cast eyes on them. These are popular waters for sailing, on crewed or bareboat charters, but if you don’t trust your sea legs, then stay at One & Only Hayman Island, which has an island all to itself and an amazing array of swimming pools, or at ‘qualia’, on the northern end of neighbouring Hamilton.

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Hayman Island

16-NIGHT

‘ S Y D N E Y, R O C K AND REEF’

Hook Island

FROM £2,895 PER PERSON

W H I T S U N D AY ISLANDS

Lizard Island B

A Airlie Beach

Cairns

Whitsunday Island

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Airlie Beach R

Hamilton Island E E

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Brisbane

Both are stunning, world-class properties, with prices to match, but Hamilton as the main island and gateway to the Whitsundays also offers a choice of more affordable hotel and villa accommodation. Three other island resorts are synonymous with tropical luxury. Lizard, remote, rugged and utterly beautiful, has 24 different beaches and never more than 80 guests (and no children under the age of ten) in rooms that sweep in an arc along Anchor Bay. Bedarra is an intimate and romantic rainforest hideaway of just eight villas a few kilometres off the coast, while ultra-chic and exclusive Orpheus is fringed by white-sand beaches with space for only 34 pampered guests. Apart from screaming cockatoos, manic lorikeets, exotic butterflies, sea eagles riding high in the thermals and other resident fauna, these islands have no other indigenous life beside the resort.

An expert eye view

WHEN TO GO

There is, of course, one more way to appreciate this natural-world wonder, and that’s from the comfort of your own home. We wouldn’t normally endorse such sedentary escapism in Ultimate Ideas, but after watching Sir David Attenborough’s three-part BBC series devoted entirely to the reef, we just had to give you the option. So what better way to end than with a quote from the great man himself to get you in the mood? ‘People ask me what has been the most magical thing I’ve ever seen in my life, and I always say, without a word of exaggeration, the first time I was lucky enough to scuba dive on the Great Barrier Reef. As I entered the water I remember suddenly seeing these amazing multicoloured species living in communities… just astounding and unforgettable beauty.’

The Great Barrier Reef is at its wondrous best from May to December, although the more southerly Whitsunday Islands can be visited all year round. JAN

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PRICES / ITINERARY A 16-night ‘Sydney, Rock and Reef’ itinerary, including five nights at the Reef View Hotel on Hamilton Island, costs from £2,895 per person, including flights and taxes. A more luxurious 16-night ‘Golden Triangle’ itinerary, combining Sydney, Ayers Rock and Lizard Island, costs from £7,845 per person, including flights and taxes.

Opposite 1. Snorkelling above the reef 2. One & Only Hayman Island 3. Hayman Island This page 4. Lizard Island

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S A FA R I R E T R E AT S AFRICA

O U R T E A M O F S P E C I A L I S T S A FA R I C O N S U LTA N T S C H O O S E T H E I R FAV O U R I T E P L A C E S T O S TAY I N T H E C O U N T R I E S T H E Y K N O W B E S T.

BOTSWANA

Mombo Is this the best area for game viewing in all of Africa? Certainly, the enormous concentration of plains game and attendant predators that gather here year round in the Okavango Delta’s Moremi Game Reserve is quite something to behold. The place to stay in Moremi is Mombo, Wilderness Safaris’ flagship on the northern tip of Chief’s Island, with nine state-of-the-art, en-suite tents. Its satellite camp, Little Mombo, has even fewer (just three), and so is ideally booked exclusively by a family or small group. NB Mombo and Little Mombo will be closed for major reconstruction work until the end of July and from August to April next year respectively. During this period, clients will be able to stay at Mombo Trails, a luxury tented fly camp that will have all the usual Mombo comforts but with a more affordable price tag! Costs for an inclusive three-night stay at Mombo from £4,625 pp. Costs for an inclusive three-night stay at Little Mombo from £3,245 pp. Costs for an inclusive three-night stay at Mombo Trails from £2,435 pp. 43

‘If you want to track mountain gorillas in their natural habitat, Virunga Lodge is the place to be’

RWANDA

MALAWI

MADAGASCAR

Virunga Lodge

Mkulumadzi

Mandrare River Camp

Organic ‘bush chic’ design and ridge-top location combine eco-luxury with one of the finest views in Africa - brooding, mist-shrouded volcanoes to one side, the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo on the other, and a patchwork quilt of lush, green hills in all directions and as far as the eye can see. Beyond breathtaking! The Virungas are, of course, all about the endangered mountain gorilla, and the lodge is the perfect place to stay if you want to track these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.

This is a very stylish lodge of beautiful, spacious chalets set in the Majete Wildlife Reserve, with dramatic views across the rapids at the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi rivers. Majete is a newly established reserve, where game (including rhino and the big cats) is actively being introduced. While it may take some time for populations to reach their optimum size, the wildlife viewing here will continue to get better and better.

An isolated but intimate camp in the heart of Ifotaka, whose spiny sacred forests are home to five different lemur species, including the conspicuous ring-tailed variety. These engaging little creatures are, naturally, the main attraction, but you can also learn much about Malagasy culture and traditions from the local Antandroy tribe at this beautiful riverside retreat on the southern tip of the island.

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £1,696 per person. (Price excludes gorilla trekking permit of around £500 per person, per day.)

S A F A R I R E T R E AT S

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £750 per person

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £995 per person

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Opposite 1. Virunga Lodge, Rwanda This page 2. Mkulumadzi, Malawi 3. Black rhino, Kenya 4. Ring-tailed lemur, Madagascar 5. Wolwedans, Namibia

NAMIBIA

K E N YA

Wolwedans

Lewa Wilderness

Conservation and sustainable tourism embody the Wolwedans ethos. Set amidst the diverse and breathtaking desert scenery of the NamibRand Nature Reserve, this inspiring collection of camps is designed to minimise environmental impact, using innovative building techniques and technologies. Whichever Wolwedans camp you stay in, and each of them is equally impressive, it will make for the perfect start to your Namibian adventure.

One of East Africa’s oldest and most private of safari ventures, with a real homestay feel and wonderful game viewing in the shadow of Mount Kenya. There is every chance here of seeing the ‘big five’ (without the crowds), as well as both white and black rhino, but you can also walk, ride and even take to the skies in a yellow biplane for an exhilarating overflight of the Conservancy. Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £1,540 per person

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £975 per person

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S A F A R I R E T R E AT S

UGANDA

ZAMBIA

TA N Z A N I A

Kyaninga Lodge

Tena Tena

Lamai Serengeti

This rustic but attractive lodge of wooden chalets is set in a completely stunning location on the rim of an ancient volcanic crater, with amazing views of Lake Kyaninga and the mysterious Mountains of the Moon. Close to Kibale Forest, it is also one of the best places in Uganda, and probably Africa as a whole, to see primates. There are no less than 13 different species found here, including chimpanzee, blue monkey and the very rare red colobus.

Robin Pope’s first camp remains his flagship. Located in the remote Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa, on the banks of the Luangwa River, Tena Tena is stylish, contemporary and yet entirely at one with its natural surroundings. The game viewing is exceptional, and you can choose from a menu of activities that includes night game drives - the Luangwa is renowned for its leopard sightings - and bush walks. You can also combine Tena Tena with one or more of Robin’s other Luangwa camps on a fully-fledged walking safari.

Light, bright and breezy, Nomad’s camps offer something new and fresh to Tanzania’s safari circuit. And Lamai is no exception. Built around a kopje in the northern Serengeti, this small permanent camp has incredible views over the surrounding plains and beautiful interiors. Food is healthily delicious, and the staff genuinely welcoming. In fact, if it weren’t for the fantastic game viewing, you’d be tempted to stay here all day.

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £875 per person

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £1,485 per person

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £1,390 per person

S A F A R I R E T R E AT S

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

ZIMBABWE

SOUTH AFRICA

Somalisa

Londolozi

A newly refurbished camp in the Hwange National Park and an absolute must for those who love elephants - they are frequent and enthusiastic visitors to Somalisa’s swimming pool, so be careful doing your lengths! Seriously comfortable tents, great food and wonderful game viewing are starting to put Hwange, and Zimbabwe, back on the safari map. It also combines easily and well with a trip to Victoria Falls.

A private concession in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Londolozi should be top of any wish list for leopard lovers. Each of the five camps is equally luxurious, and the service impeccable, but the main focus is on the incredible game in the area… notably leopards. High-quality photographic equipment can even be hired, and your images of these beautiful cats then processed through the on-site photo lab, ready for you to take home at the end of your stay.

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay start from £990 per person

Opposite 1. Kyaninga Lodge, Uganda 2. Lamai Serengeti, Tanzania 3. Somalisa, Zimbabwe This page 4. Lamai Serengeti, Tanzania 5. Elephant, South Africa 6. Tena Tena, Zambia 7. Londolozi, South Africa

Costs for an inclusive three-night stay at Varty Camp start from £1,520 per person

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F O O D, G L O R I O U S F O O D ! T R AV E L W R I T E R , P H O T O G R A P H E R , L E C T U R E R A N D E S C O R T E D T O U R L E A D E R CHRIS CALDICOTT SHARES HIS WORLD FOOD HIGHLIGHTS BEFORE EMBARKING O N H I S F O R T H C O M I N G T O U R : T H E C O L O U R S & F L AV O U R S O F V I E T N A M .

THE STALLHOLDER FILLED A wafer-thin puri ball of crispy fried wheat with a mixture of diced boiled potato, chickpeas, tamarind and date chutneys, then added a magic liquid laced with chilli, cumin, coriander, mint, palm sugar and kala namak, or black salt. He passed it to me and I popped it in my mouth. With one crunch I set off a sensational taste explosion of sweet, sour and spicy flavours so wonderful it was a moment of culinary perfection. I had only a second to revel in the pleasure before another ball was loaded and in my hand, requiring immediate attention. This initiation of my taste buds to one of Mumbai’s most popular street-food treats came when I joined a friendly crowd of families, courting couples, tourists and homeward-bound workers, drawn to Chowpatty Beach late every afternoon to watch the sun set and to feast on the spicy, seaside, savoury snacks known as chaats that are served up from dozens of colourful makeshift stalls on the sand.

FOOD TOURS

Discovering a new food experience can be one of the greatest joys of travel. While they are just as likely to be found randomly in a modest street stall as in a Michelin-star restaurant, it’s hard to beat a perfectly grilled slab of Kobe beef from the New York Grill on the upper floor of the Park Hyatt with Tokyo’s electric skyline framed in the panoramic windows. Or a white truffle and Parmesan carnaroli risotto on the terrace of the Gritti Palace’s Club del Doge as life drifts past along Venice’s Grand Canal. A memorable meal can depend on where you have it as much as what you eat. I began my travelling life as a photographer, documenting the lifestyles of nomadic tribes for the Royal Geographical Society. This took me to some of the most remote places on earth, where I had no choice but to eat whatever my hosts served up, and so my enthusiasm for wonderful cuisine is well earned. Even on my most recent journey, a cruise around the Galapagos Islands, I had an

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

‘It’s hard to beat a perfectly grilled slab of Kobe beef from the New York Grill on the upper floor of the Park Hyatt’

CHRIS CALDICOTT

unexpected treat. No one travels all the way to these dots way out in the Pacific for the food. They are all about animal therapy: a family of sea lions falling fast asleep next to you on the beach, for example, then springing to life like excited puppies to follow you into the water for a swim; or a chance meeting with giant tortoises roaming through forests of oversized dandelions. Amazing as all this was, my memories of the zingy, fresh flavours of the seafood ceviche that was served every lunch on board as we sailed to our next island will last just as long. I found the perfect setting to try ema datshi, the fabulous, robust and power-packed Bhutanese delicacy of red chilli and white-yak-cheese stew with wild mushrooms, at the Gangtey Goenpa Lodge overlooking a stunning 17th-century monastery that appeared to float above valley mists, a celestial vision set in an amphitheatre of the majestic Himalayan peaks.

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Drifting silently past the towering limestone karsts of Halong Bay on a traditional Vietnamese junk felt like floating through a Chinese scroll painting, an experience made complete by a moreish moonlit dinner of tiger prawns simmered in a fragrant lemongrass, ginger and coconut-milk broth with rice noodles. At Serra Cafema, surreally isolated amidst the towering sand dunes that fringe the Kunene River in northern Namibia, and one of Africa’s most remote lodges, I discovered that char-grilled steaks of wild kudu taste every bit as good as the best ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ free-range venison. However, my fondest food-meets-travel experience of all has to be the hours I spent on a tatami mat watching torrential tropical rain through the sliding rice-paper-screen windows of Hoshinoya Kyoto (on the banks of the Ooi River) and eating a traditional 14-dish Japanese breakfast. There was no pressure whatsoever to hurry, as it was too wet do anything else but enjoy the moment.

Formerly Photographer in Residence to the Royal Geographical Society, Chris Caldicott is now a freelance photographer and lecturer specialising in food and travel. As a journalist, he is a regular contributor to Condé Nast Traveller, Harper’s Bazaar, House & Garden, Tatler and The Telegraph.

Join Chris on his ‘The Colours & Flavours of Vietnam’ tour, 15–27 February 2016, visiting Hanoi, Ninh Bình, Halong Bay, Hoi An, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Costs £4,530 per person, single supplement £995. Chris will also be leading an Escorted Tour to Central India, provisional dates 18 February 6 March 2017, visiting Udaipur, Narlai, Shahpura, Bundi, Orchha, Gwalior and Agra. Costs to be advised. Please contact our Escorted Tours team for more details Opposite 1. Buckwheat noodles, Japan 2. Stall holder, Chowpatty Beach, India This page 3. Park Hyatt, Tokyo 4. Sea lions, Galapagos Islands 5. Gangtey Goenpa Lodge, Bhutan

FOOD TOURS

F LY I N G D O W N TO

RIO

RIO DE JANEIRO

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

I T ’ S A N O LY M P I A N Y E A R F O R R I O D E J A N E I R O , SO WHETHER YOU’RE THINKING OF GOING TO THE G A M E S O R S AV O U R I N G T H E C I T Y ’ S I N T O X I C AT I N G AT M O S P H E R E B E F O R E O R A F T E R T H E B I G E V E N T, H E R E ’ S O U R L I S T O F M U S T- D O S F O R A N Y V I S I T.

View

Visit

Take the rack-and-pinion train to the summit of Corcovado, where the 100-foot arm span of Christ the Redeemer embraces a once seen, never forgotten view of the city and its backdrop of sea, mountains, forests and beaches. The local Cariocas maintain that his father devoted two whole days of his six-day working week just on their city! For a different perspective, ride the cable car to the summit of Sugarloaf, a dramatic ascent up its vertiginous, jungle-clad granite slopes, and fork out for a short but exhilarating helicopter flight over the city.

Santa Teresa’s jumble of cobbled streets at the heart of the city, with its stock of colonial buildings, galleries and coffee shops, is Rio at its most bohemian. The neighbourhood of Lapa is the lively hub of Rio’s exotic nightlife, where Cariocas come together with visitors, happily and harmoniously, to listen and to move to the seductive rhythms of samba.

11-NIGHT

‘HIGHLIGHTS OF SOUTHERN B R A Z I L’ FROM £3,395 PER PERSON

Lapa

Sugarloaf Mountain cable car

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Santa Teresa

Christ the Redeemer

RIO DE JANEIRO

The Amazon BRAZIL

Salvador Buzios Rio de Janeiro Iguazu Falls

Copacabana Palace

Play

Stay

WHEN TO GO

Rio does beaches like no place else in the world. They are part of everyday life for the Cariocas: places to go before work, after work, and often instead of work; to relax, flash the flesh, play football or volleyball, enjoy an exercise class, even light a fire at night to the voodoo spirits. Copacabana, the longest (three miles) and broadest (330ft), always produces that involuntary ‘wow’ when you first set eyes on it, but prettier Ipanema has far more charm and fronts a classier neighbourhood.

The Copacabana Palace first opened in 1923 and is still the most dashing address in town. Now part of the Belmond portfolio, its ‘golden book’ of famous guests includes Oscar Wilde, who threw furniture out of the window; Mick Jagger, who cavorted with a Brazilian model; Rod Stewart, who was shown the red card for playing football in his suite; and Jayne Mansfield, who, to the thrill of the paparazzi, once bared more than her soul here. Today’s stars and dignitaries are best seen by day beside the pool (the largest in Rio), by night at the piano bar, or at MEE, the pan-Asian restaurant led by celebrated BBC TV chef Ken Hom that has just been awarded a Michelin star.

It’s difficult to summarise concisely the best time to visit a country the size of Brazil. It is a year-round destination, but as a rule of thumb we’d suggest the winter months from May to October, when the weather is clearer and more temperate.

Ipanema Beach

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PRICES / ITINERARY An 11-night ‘Highlights of Southern Brazil’ itinerary, visiting Rio, Iguazu Falls and Búzios, costs from £3,395 per person, including flights and taxes. Itineraries can, of course, be extended to include the wetlands of the Amazon and Pantanal, the colonial charm of Salvador and the wilderness of Brazil’s northern Atlantic coastline. Ask us for further details.

‘Everything about Rio makes you want to dance’ Prince Harry

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INDONESIA U N F O R G E T TA B L E S I G H T S . NOW WITH E XC E P T I O NA L S AV I N G S .

ULT IM ATE I NDONESI A THE BEST OF BALI, JAVA AND LOMBOK IN 16 DAYS

Stay at Amanjiwo overlooking the temple complex of Borobodur. Explore the ‘cultural heart’ of Bali from the exclusive luxury of Samaya Ubud. Unwind at the boutique beachfront paradise of Tugu Lombok.

SPECIAL OFFER

Complimentary Room Upgrades at Amanjiwo and Tugu Lombok* PLUS Free Spa Treatments PLUS £250 Cashback per person.** From £3,385 per person

Call 0203 7401 4783 * Subject to availability at check in. **Book before 29.02.2016 for travel anytime throughout the year.

Jameh Mosque of Isfahan

IRAN

A N E W F RO N T I E R WITH THE REOPENING OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN TEHRAN LAST SUMMER AND A S U B S E Q U E N T T H A W I N I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E L AT I O N S , T H I N G S A R E L O O K I N G U P F O R I R A N ’ S T O U R I S T I N D U S T R Y. H E R E , S Y LV I E F R A N Q U E T G I V E S U S T H E L O W D O W N A N D S U G G E S T S T H E R E H A S N E V E R B E E N A B E T T E R T I M E T O V I S I T.

‘Tourism will soon spread its wings to all four corners of Iran, with some 400 new hotels planned in the next five years’

IRAN DEFIES EVERY PREJUDICE you may have held. More modern than one might expect - indeed, quite European in many ways - you will meet a people who think and act in a way that is entirely at odds with the usual preconceptions. Incredibly friendly and welcoming, they are engagingly positive about the future and, with a more liberal president in Hassan Rouhani and the very real possibility of a nuclear agreement, they genuinely believe that the dark days of isolation will soon be a thing of the past. And there is so much to see and absorb here. From the ancient glories of Rayen and Persepolis to such jewels of Islamic architecture as the Friday Mosque in Yazd and the Maidan of Isfahan, Iran is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of antiquities. Nor is anything quite so exotic as shopping in the old bazaars lining the silk roads that dissect the country, or falling in love with an exquisite Persian

I R A N

rug whose very fabric has an intriguing story of its own to tell. Tourism will soon spread its wings to all four corners of Iran, with some 400 new hotels planned in the next five years. So now is the time to travel if you’re not hugely bothered by a fledgling infrastructure or a lack of good accommodation (the splendid Abbasi Hotel in Isfahan excepted). On the flip side of the coin, and, more importantly, the local guides speak excellent English, have often travelled widely abroad, and are passionate and knowledgeable about their homeland. Food is simple and wholesome, if a little repetitive - chelo (rice) kebab being the staple diet - but new restaurants and hip coffee houses are popping up fast, and guides go out of their way to ensure one’s culinary experience is as varied as possible. Transport, too, is good, usually in comfortable coaches that become your

home for the entire road trip. Drives between cities may be long, but they bring the historical and spectacular natural legacy of the country alive the mountain and desert landscape is absolutely stunning in places. Bear in mind that you will have to adhere to a dress code. Men can wear whatever they like, so long as their legs are covered (no shorts) and they are not wearing a tie. Women are still expected to wear the hijab and a manteau or long top of some kind, but there is much more colour now, and young Iranian girls are always pushing the boundaries. Iran is about to become a much bigger player in the Middle East. Things are changing - and changing fast - but any journey is still a great adventure, so be sure to travel with an open mind and be ready to explore. You’ll also return home healthy and detoxed - alcohol is strictly prohibited!

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

AZERBAIJAN

TURKEY

CASPIAN SEA

Tehran

Kashan IRAQ

Isfahan

Shiraz

SAUDI ARABIA

IRAN Yazd

Persepolis

Rayen

U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S OMAN

10-NIGHT

‘CLASSIC IRAN’ FROM £2,975 PER PERSON

WHEN TO GO

PRICES / ITINERARY

Extreme weather affects the country’s vast central plains in summer and winter, so it’s best to travel from March to May, or from September to November. However, try to avoid the two weeks surrounding Nowruz (21 March), the ten days prior to Ashura (11 October in 2016), and the month of Ramadan, which begins on 6 June in 2016. Ashura and Ramadan dates vary from year to year.

A ten-night ‘Classic Iran’ itinerary, combining Tehran, Shiraz, Yazd and Isfahan, costs from £2,975 per person, including flights and taxes.

S Y LV I E FRANQUET Sylvie was born in Belgium, studied Arabic and Islamic Studies - first at Ghent University, then Cairo University - and has lived in London for more than 20 years. She has written at length about the Middle East and regularly leads trips to the region. Her newest passion is Iran, and she is now a leading expert on its culture and history.

Sylvie Franquet will be leading two Escorted Tours to Iran, provisional dates 2–16 March 2017 and 4–18 September 2017, visiting Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan, Abyaneh, Kashan and Tehran. Costs to be advised. We are also planning an earlier Escorted Tour to Iran, provisional dates 8–22 September 2016. Costs to be advised. Please contact our Escorted Tours team for more details

Opposite page 1. Imam Mosque, Isfahan 2. Lut Desert 3. Persepolis

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IRAN

GO WITH GO WITH THE FLOW I F, L I K E T. S . E L I O T, Y O U B E L I E V E T H AT I T ’ S T H E J O U R N E Y N O T T H E A R R I VA L T H AT M AT T E R S , T H E N P E R H A P S A C R U I S E D O W N O N E O F T H E G R E AT R I V E R S O F T H E W O R L D I S F O R Y O U . H E R E ’ S O U R S E L E C T I O N O F T H E B E S T.

FLOW

R I V E R C R U I S E S

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RIVER CRUISING IS ONE OF THE FASTEST-GROWING (ALBEIT SLOWEST MOVING) OF HOLIDAYS. One of the main reasons for this is that unlike over-land touring, stresses such as finding somewhere to park in a city centre, let alone traffic jams, simply don’t exist. Which gives you more time in between ports of call and sights of interest to take in the ambience from the luxurious surrounds of your cabin or a sun lounger on the top deck. And unlike conventional cruising, there’s always a rolling frieze of scenery to look at on both sides of the ship! Here’s our selection of the best river-borne adventures around the world...

M/V Aria

PERU

The Amazon

THE

WHEN TO GO

Although the waters of the Amazon flow largely through Brazil, we believe the most interesting miles are those that slice through Peru. Board the M/V Aria and you will cruise in stylish luxury through the unexplored Pacaya-Samiria Reserve, explore the dark green heart of the jungle in the ship’s tenders, watch troupes of orange and black howler monkeys hurling themselves through the rainforest canopy, and the occasional fly-past of vividly coloured parrots, photograph prehistoric-looking iguanas lazing in the sun, and hopefully spot the rare pink river dolphin - and maybe even a jaguar or two (pictured below right). With room for just 32 passengers in river-view suites, the Aria offers an unrivalled way to experience the complex beauty of the Amazonian eco-system.

The best time to visit Peru and the Amazon is from May to November. JAN

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PRICES / ITINERARY A 15-night ‘Ultimate Peru’ itinerary, combining Lima, Arequipa, Colca, Lake Titicaca, Cusco and Machu Picchu, with a four-night cruise on the Aria, costs from £7,195 per person, including flights and taxes. The best time to visit Peru and the Amazon is from May to November.

‘The Aria offers an unrivalled way to experience the complex beauty of the Amazonian eco-system’

COLOMBIA

PERU The Amazon

Pacaya-Samiria Reserve

BRAZIL Jaguar

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RIVER CRUISES

Aqua Mekong

SOUTHEAST ASIA

The Mekong Flowing south from China through Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, and the longest river in Southeast Asia, the mighty Mekong remains the vibrant heartbeat of Indochina. Any cruise on this great thoroughfare offers a wonderful insight into the region’s wealth and diversity of attractions: French colonial architecture, emerald-green paddy fields, birdlife, floating markets, craft villages, palaces, pagodas, the infamous Killing Fields and the glorious World Heritage temple complex of Angkor.

The Oberoi Zahra

EGYPT

Cairo

The Nile ‘Going up the Nile,’ wrote Kipling, ‘is like running a gauntlet before Eternity’. Its banks, a pair of 600-mile-long oases, were not only the birthplace of civilisation, but are also where the bulk of Egypt’s fantastic archaeological sites are concentrated. The majority of cruises offer just the 145 miles of river between Luxor and Aswan, which just happens to be the stretch richest in antiquities. Here, you will find the temples of Luxor and Karnak, built in 250BC and large enough to swallow two or more gothic cathedrals, the Colossi of Memnon at Deir el-Bahari, and the pharaohs’ tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Cairo is also a must, either pre- or post-cruise, to marvel at the pyramids (the last survivor of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), to explore the worldfamous Egyptian Museum, which houses the treasures found in King Tutankhamun’s tomb, and to wander through the labyrinthine Khan el-Khalili bazaar, in the shopping-mall business since 1382 and a scene straight out of The Arabian Nights.

The Nile

EGYPT Luxor Aswan

WHEN TO GO

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A 15-night ‘Magic of the Mekong’ itinerary, combining a four-night cruise on the luxurious Aqua Mekong from Saigon to Phnom Penh, with three nights at Siem Reap and four nights at the exclusive private-island resort of Song Saa on the Cambodian coast, costs from £8,895 per person, including flights and taxes. Luxor

CAMBODIA

The best time to visit Egypt is from September to April.

Phnom Penh

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A seven-night ‘Egypt in Luxury’ itinerary, combining Cairo with a four-night cruise from Luxor to Aswan on The Oberoi Zahra, costs from £2,995 per person, including flights and taxes.

VIETNAM

The Mekong Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

PRICES / ITINERARY

R I V E R C R U I S E S

The best time to visit Cambodia and Vietnam is from November to March.

PRICES / ITINERARY

WHEN TO GO

Ultimate MD Nick Van Gruisen is hosting an exclusive ‘Mekong Delta: Saigon to Angkor’ cruise on board the Mekong Princess in January 2017. See The Directors’ Selection on page 16.

Giza

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

SLOVAKIA Vienna

AUSTRIA

Bratislava The Danube Budapest

HUNGARY

EUROPE

The Danube The Rhine, Rhône, Moselle, Elbe, Seine, Douro, Volga… there are many great European rivers tailor made for cruising, but none better than the Danube for first-timers. Once one of Europe’s main arteries of trade and commerce, the river boasts a stock of historic sights as well as three capitals - Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest which can all be included in a classic, one-week cruise. The gorgeous banks of this snaking, weaving ‘waterbahn’ are also places of natural abundance, topped by the pretty vineyards and apricot orchards of Austria’s Wachau and the wonky roof lines and onion church toppings of its munchkin villages. You’ll also pass immense palaces, once the summer boltholes of the happy Habsburgs, the baroque monastery of Melk, the rather austere cathedral at Esztergom, the pretty, arty town of Szentendre, and the walled wine village of Dürnstein.

Belmond Road to Mandalay

M YA N M A R

The Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) Born of the Himalayan snows in the far north and flowing south to the Andaman Sea, Kipling’s Road to Mandalay remains the soul and heartbeat of Myanmar. Indeed, no journey is complete without a cruise on this legendary river. Three- or four-night cruises linking the ‘Royal City’ of Mandalay with the ancient capital of Bagan are the most popular, and a wonderful opportunity to observe a pageant of rural, riverside life unchanged for centuries. But in August and September, when the meltwaters raise the river levels, you can also embark on a longer voyage north from Mandalay through the gorges of the Upper Irrawaddy.

PRICES / ITINERARY There are a number of departures with Tauck, Scenic and AmaWaterways to choose from during the ‘season’, from April to November. Costs for a seven-night cruise start at £1,675 per person, including flights, taxes, transfers, meals and excursions.

Cruise expert Amelia Dalton is leading a ‘Myanmar: Exploring the Upper Ayeyarwady’ tour on board the Belmond Orcaella in September 2016. See The Directors’ Selection on page 15.

WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Myanmar is from November to March. JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

M AY

JUN

JUL

AUG

SEP

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NOV

DEC

PRICES / ITINERARY A 15-night ‘Exclusive Myanmar’ itinerary, combining Yangon, Lake Inle and Ngapali Beach with a four-night cruise from Bagan to Mandalay on the Belmond Road to Mandalay, costs from £5,125 per person, including flights and taxes.

Mandalay

M YA N M A R (BURMA)

Bagan

Inle The Irrawaddy

THAILAND Ngapali Beach

Yangon Dürnstein

Bagan

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RIVER CRUISES

DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL WORLD OF BELMOND

elmond is proud to offer some of the greatest journeys in the world. Whether travelling on an iconic train or moving between landmark hotels, they bring together great destinations and exceptional sights. Just some of their remarkable locations include the entrance to Machu Picchu, the national park surrounding Brazil’s Iguassu Falls and beside Rio’s Copacabana beach. Their hotels and train in South America can be brought together in a single itinerary, thereby creating an unrivalled travel experience. All Peruvian journeys begin in vibrant Lima. Stay in the capital’s trendiest neighbourhood at Belmond Miraflores Park before flying up to Cusco and driving down to the Sacred Valley, where Belmond Hotel Rio Sagrado sits in secluded splendour on the banks of the Urubamba River.

Then board the Belmond Hiram Bingham train bound for Machu Picchu and Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel that shares the mountain top with this awe-inspiring Inca citadel.

Returning to Cusco, you are spoilt for choice with a stay at the intimate urban retreat Belmond Palacio Nazarenas or Belmond Hotel Monasterio, a cloistered Spanish colonial masterpiece that is steeped in history. Both are at the heart of this ancient Inca capital and a few moments away from the lively main square.

If you’ve set your compass and your heart on Brazil, Belmond has two iconic and glamorous hotels that are easily combined. The legendary Belmond Copacabana Palace remains Rio de Janeiro’s most coveted address and overlooks the famous beach, while a short flight to the west is Belmond Hotel Das Cataratas, within sight and sound of the mighty Iguassu Falls and the only hotel actually within the national park.

To book any of Belmond hotels and trains in South America (or elsewhere in the world), simply contact The Ultimate Travel Company and enjoy the benefits of our preferred partner status.

Call us on 020 3740 1478 to find out more.

DI S COVE R O UR WO RL D

WAT E R FA L L S of the W O R L D

S E V E R A L O F T H E W O R L D ’ S M O S T M A J E S T I C W AT E R FA L L S R A N K A M O N G T H E S U P E R - S I G H T S O F G L O B A L T R AV E L A N D A R E D E S T I N AT I O N S I N T H E I R O W N R I G H T. H E R E ’ S O U R R O U N D - U P O F T H E V E R Y B E S T. . .

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Niagara Falls

ARGENTINA & BRAZIL

Iguazu Falls

Niagara Falls

Niagara may have five times the volume of water, but Iguazu is certainly the most scenically spectacular of all the world’s waterfalls. Indeed, upon seeing this natural marvel of more than 250 individual cascades, the United States First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed, ‘Poor Niagara!’ In the movie The Mission, a penitent Robert De Niro climbs it the hard way, but there are easier approaches. Three-quarters of Iguazu belongs to Argentina, but Brazil has the boa vista, the classic view of the two-mile-wide horseshoe. However, it’s still worth making the three-hour round trip across the frontier into Argentina to walk the catwalks for a more intimate, close-up, spine-tingling look at the aquatic fury.

A great arc of hissing, frothing water crashing over a 160-foot-high cliff amid dense clouds of spray - your first sight of Niagara Falls is one you will never forget. But the second and third sights, from above by helicopter and below by boat, are even better. On the water, choose a jet boat for an exhilarating 20-mile ride up river, bringing you within splash range of the three different cascades: the American, Bridal Veil and Canadian Horseshoe. There is also a walkway that takes you, thrillingly, behind the crashing water, an evening fireworks display over the falls twice a week and a spectacular light show every night. And if you visit in the winter, Niagara freezes solid into an icefall! W H E R E T O S TAY

W H E R E T O S TAY In Brazil, at Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, built in splendid colonial style and set in tropical gardens, with the thunder of the water a nightly lullaby.

Belmond Hotel das Cataratas

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CANADA

Skip the town and opt for a 30-minute detour to Pillar and Post in Niagara-on-theLake, a historic place with charming shops, galleries and inns. It will also put you close to some of the region’s boutique wineries.

Pillar and Post

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UGANDA

Murchison Falls Sir Winston Churchill, Humphrey Bogart, Ernest Hemingway and various British Royals have all paid homage to these dramatic falls on the White Nile, where the world’s longest river explodes violently through a narrow cleft in the Rift Valley escarpment. They also give their name to Uganda’s largest national park, an impressive reserve in the north-west of the country whose untamed wilderness is sanctuary to elephant, buffalo,lion, leopard and a huge variety of antelope. And the Nile itself boasts one of Africa’s densest hippo and crocodile populations, as well as a dazzling array of aquatic birds including the very rare shoebill stork.

ZIMBABWE & ZAMBIA

Victoria Falls A Natural Wonder of the World (there are only seven) and UNESCO World Heritage site, the Victoria Falls are known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya - the ‘smoke that thunders’. It is a fitting epithet for one of the largest curtains of falling water on earth, and one that inspired Livingstone to reflect that ‘scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight’. Today, they can be viewed from either the Zambian or Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi, with most activities available from both countries - sunset river cruises, white-water rafting and bungee jumping are all on the menu here.

W H E R E T O S TAY

Tongabezi Lodge

On the south bank of the Nile at Baker’s Lodge, an intimate camp of just eight cottages with private decks overlooking the river.

W H E R E T O S TAY On the Zimbabwean side, at the beautifully restored Victoria Falls Hotel, a stately colonial masterpiece overlooking the Zambezi Gorge. Or at the newly refurbished Tongabezi Lodge, upstream from the falls on the Zambian bank of the river.

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Victoria Falls Hotel

Baker’s Lodge

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THE BIG FREEZE A stiller, quieter canvas, maybe, but glaciers and icefalls can be just as captivating. Here are just a few you might like to consider… Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina The jewel in the crown of Los Glaciares National Park, where the great glaciers of the Patagonian Ice Cap pour and calve into the icy waters of Lago Argentino. Matanuska Glacier, Alaska At 27 miles long and four miles wide, this is the largest glacier accessible by car in the United States. Columbia Icefield, Canada The best way to experience the largest ice field in the Rocky Mountains, and Canadian national treasure, is to drive the Icefield Parkway from Lake Louise to Jasper. Vatnajökull, Iceland Also known as the Vatna Glacier, this is the most voluminous of its kind in the ‘land of fire and ice’. Khumbu Icefall, Nepal A circuitous two-week trek from the airstrip at Lukla will take you to the 18,500-foot summit of Kala Pattar for the classic view of Mount Everest and its savage icefall.

AUSTRALIA

Mitchell Falls These are as remote as the great falls come. You either have to hire a 4WD for a long drive through the Outback along the Gibb River Road, and then hike to the base of the falls, charter a helicopter or book your berth on a luxury expedition ship. Best of these are True North and Silversea’s Silver Discoverer, which carry tenders to take you close to the falls (True North also has a helicopter). A four-tier series of cascades, the Mitchell Falls’ setting in the Kimberley is equally impressive - a wild and rugged region of red-rock escarpments, dramatic gorges, tidal flats and abundant wildlife.

Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand A spectacular, seven-mile-long river of ice in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park on the west coast of South Island. The Antarctic Peninsula Just a three-day sail across the Drake Passage from Ushuaia and home to some of the world’s most enchanting creatures. True North

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I F Y O U ’ R E L O O K I N G F O R A FA M I LY H O L I D AY T H AT O F F E R S THE PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN FUN (FOR THEM) AND L U X U R I O U S R E L A X AT I O N ( F O R Y O U ) , T H E N L O O K N O F U R T H E R . H E R E ’ S O U R P I C K O F T H E B E S T S H O R T- H A U L D E S T I N AT I O N S W H E R E F U N F O R A L L I S N ’ T A FA N TA S Y.

Martinhal Sagres Beach

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WE KNOW THAT the key to a successful family holiday is that all members, whatever their age, are not just welcomed by the hotel or resort, but are fully catered for. For parents, this means they can enjoy a full spectrum of grown-up activities, safe in the knowledge their children are being cared for and entertained by a team of professionals. For us, first-hand knowledge and client feedback has allowed us to distil a select number of European resorts that tick all the boxes for the family. Some of these even have separate villas, should you wish to combine the independence of self-catering with all the usual resort facilities.

kitchens. There is even a ‘Baby Concierge’ facility, so you can pre-book everything you might need and pack much lighter. An Algarve alternative to the Martinhal is the highly rated popular Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa, a Leading Hotel of the World that overlooks a superb stretch of goldensand beach from its clifftop setting. Its 170 rooms are spread out across the resort’s 54 acres, children’s clubs are supervised, and there’s a menu of activities for all ages.

Portugal: The Algarve

Martinhal Sagres Beach from £5,425 Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa from £7,695

The essence of the Martinhal brand, in the hotel group’s own words, ‘successfully brings together the elements of luxury, family, design and genuine hospitality’. Check it out for yourself at their first ‘Family Resort Hotel’ in Sagres, an old fishing port and surfing mecca on the Algarve. Crèches and clubs tend to kids of all ages, while accommodation ranges from interconnecting rooms to houses and villas with up to five bedrooms and fully equipped

PRICES Cost of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included:

Martinhal Sagres Beach

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Amirandes Grecotel

Greece: Crete and the mainland Crete is far enough south to enjoy a long hot summer and so be a good option for both spring and autumn half terms as well. There are three resorts on the island worthy of consideration - Daios Cove, whose crèche club for the very young is run by resort childcare specialists Worldwide Kids Company, and St Nicolas Bay, both close to but isolated from the popular coastal town of Agios Nikolaos. And the exclusive Amirandes Grecotel, a short drive from Heraklion and the ancient site of Knossos, with some 60 private pools, three agebanded children’s clubs and a wonderful range of sports facilities both on and off the water. Two of the best, family-friendly properties are located on mainland Greece. In the southern Peloponnese and close to the ancient wonders of Olympia and Mystras, the Westin Resort, Costa Navarino has 445 rooms and suites with glorious views of the Ionian, a spa, two golf courses, tennis courts and a full children’s menu of activities including a water slide Aqua Park; to the north, near Thessaloniki on the enchanting peninsula of Halkidiki, is the charming Porto Sani Village & Spa with another Worldwide Kids Company club and also a football academy to tempt any budding Beckhams.

F A M I LY R E S O R T S

Porto Sani Village & Spa

PRICES Costs of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included: Daios Cove, Crete from £6,385 St Nicolas Bay, Crete from £5,725 Amirandes Grecotel, Crete from £11,565 Westin Resort, Costa Navarino from £7,175 Porto Sani Village & Spa from £9,815

St Nicolas Bay

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‘The key to a successful family holiday is that all members, whatever their age, are not just welcomed by the hotel or resort, but are fully catered for’

Spain: Costa Calida and the Canary Islands You are spoilt for choice in Spain, of course, but La Manga Club on the Costa Calida is about as good as it gets. Stay here at either the luxurious five-star Hotel Príncipe Felipe or the four-star Las Lomas Village, whose two-to-threebedroom terraced apartments are ideal for families looking for easy access to the resort’s extensive recreational facilities but with a degree of independence. Or why not head for the Canaries and Lanzarote’s beach-front Princesa Yaiza its children’s park Kikoland has tennis, football, climbing walls, family pools and playhouses for all ages. And on neighbouring Tenerife, the Moorish-inspired The Ritz-Carlton Abama is set in 400 wonderful acres on the island’s west coast with a choice of suites, rooms and villas, championship golf course and 13 restaurants (two with Michelin stars). There’s also a Ritz Kids programme ‘designed to offer younger guests an immersive and enthralling experience, with activities based upon water, land, environmental responsibility and culture’.

Hotel Príncipe Felipe

PRICES Cost of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included: La Manga Club - Hotel Príncipe Felipe from £8,303 - Las Lomas Village from £3,253 Princesa Yaiza, Lanzarote from £4,802 Ritz-Carlton Abama, Tenerife from £5,140 Princesa Yaiza

Cyprus Cyprus enjoys a longer season than most. Our two picks here both belong to the family-run Thanos Hotels: the Anassa, a deluxe five-star hotel set right beside the sea in an area of outstanding natural beauty, and the highly contemporary Almyra, on the seafront in Paphos but with eight acres of landscaped gardens as secluded oasis from this popular resort town. PRICES Cost of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included: Anassa

U LT I M A T E I D E A S

Anassa Almyra

from £8,425 from £4,445

F A M I LY R E S O R T S

Verdura Resort

Italy: Sicily, Puglia and the Dolomites If Italy is on the family radar this summer, then take a close look at the spectacular Rocco Forte Verdura Resort in Sicily, which occupies more than 500 acres along a two-kilometre stretch of private Mediterranean shoreline. Children are beautifully looked after here, which is just as well given the three golf courses, six tennis courts, cycling trails and world-class spa to entice parents. Back across on the mainland, in the ‘heel’ of Italy, Borgo Egnazia also takes good care of its young guests, leaving parents free to join one of the ‘Nowhere Else Academies’ devoted to cooking, fishing, golf, photography and wine the signature attraction at this gem of a resort on the Puglia coast. If mountains, not sea, are more your thing, then head for the Dolomites and the legendary Cristallo Hotel in the fashionable ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Dating back to the early 1900s, the Cristallo offers its VIKs (very important kids) everything from dedicated menus to indoor and outdoor play rooms, and its adult guests the indulgence of an Ultimate Spa and some stunning golf at the private Cortina Club.

Adrenalin Park, Cristallo Hotel

PRICES Cost of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included:

Borgo Egnazia

F A M I LY R E S O R T S

Borgo Egnazia

Verdura Resort, Sicily from £9,395 Borgo Egnazia, Puglia from £8,695 Cristallo Hotel, Dolomites from £5,380

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Disney Magic

Terre Blanche

France: Côte d’Azur

Take the family afloat

Set in the hills behind the Côte d’Azur, and just a 45-minute drive from the airport at Nice, is the exclusive spa and golf resort of Terre Blanche. There are 115 villas or suites, four restaurants, four pools, a large spa, tennis courts, two championship golf courses and a supervised club villa with its own pool for the kids. If you can tear yourselves, and the kids, away from this Provençal paradise, the surrounding region of Var has ancient hill towns, traditional markets and the Gorges du Verdon (Europe’s very own Grand Canyon) to explore. And, of course, the manicured beaches and glamour of the French Riviera aren’t far.

The middle of the ocean may not be your first port of call for a family holiday with the young ones, but cruising can, in fact, provide one of the most rewarding, family-friendly holidays. Provided, of course, you choose the right ship. Disney Magic, despite the name, is far from being a floating theme park. There’s plenty of Disney whimsy, even down to the ship’s hooter, which toots to the opening bars of ‘When You Wish Upon a Star’ on leaving port, but she is also a very sophisticated vessel. Although she attracts a number of passengers travelling without children, Disney Magic is aimed squarely at the family market, with children’s clubs and loads of dedicated activities. Parents even have pagers so that they can be summoned from any part of the ship if needs be. There are several week-long cruises scheduled to coincide with the school holidays, including a 29 May sailing to the Norwegian fjords and a 25 July sailing to the Atlantic coastlines of Spain and Portugal, both round trips from Dover, and three August departures from Barcelona to Italy and the South of France. Costs for a family of four start from £4,665.

PRICES Cost of a week’s stay in July 2016 for a family of four, with flights and taxes included: Terre Blanche from £11,065

DON’T FORGET We can also arrange long-haul trips to destinations such as the Caribbean, French Polynesia, the Seychelles, Mauritius and the Maldives. The choice is yours (or perhaps that of the child that shouts the loudest).

‘ T here are several weeklong cruises scheduled to coincide with the school holidays’

Oceans aside, river cruising can be just as family friendly. Tauck Bridges, for example, has a number of dedicated departures on the Danube, Rhine and Rhone, with lots of fun, hands-on shore excursions and on-board activities. Vessels carry no more than 130 passengers, there are a number of three- and four-person suites on the top deck, and everything is included in the price - food, drink and excursions. Costs for a week’s cruise for a family of four start from £11,395. With ships tying up in the heart of towns and cities, river cruising will also appeal to multi-generation families, whose older members may have limited mobility. And, as on an ocean cruise, you will unpack and pack only once.

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E V E N I N A W O R L D T H AT ’ S I N C R E A S I N G LY C O L O N I S E D B Y T R AV E L L E R S , T H E R E A R E S T I L L A F E W C O R N E R S O F T H E E A R T H T H AT R E M A I N R E L AT I V E LY U N D I S C O V E R E D . T H E N O R T H A N D S O U T H P O L E S BEING PRIME EXAMPLES. HERE, WE HELP YOU CHOOSE THE ONE WHICH IS RIGHT FOR YOU.

THE ARCTIC

‘ Take off from the UK around lunchtime and you can be north of the Arctic Circle before sunset’

Location, location, location

Polar exploration

Natural world

Obviously, the Arctic is far closer than its opposite number, much of it accessible via a short flight from Oslo. To reach Antarctica, you need to fly via Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, then sail for two to three days across what is often a choppy sea. Alternatively, you can fly via Santiago and Punta Arenas in southern Chile to King George Island and join a ship for a shorter cruise. Take off from the UK at around lunchtime and you can be north of the Arctic Circle before sunset. Halfway between Norway and the North Pole, Spitsbergen and the Svalbard archipelago are ideal cruising waters, with itineraries focusing on the eastern and western reaches. You can even circumnavigate the archipelago if the pack ice allows, while some of the longer voyages will also continue to Iceland and Greenland. In winter, there is additional demand for the Scandinavian Arctic, principally to Lapland in the far north, where the attractions include the Northern Lights, husky sledding, snowmobiling and Father Christmas on his home patch.

Unless you are a research scientist or passionate enough to enroll on a serious overland expedition, the only way to explore Antarctica is by ship. However, make sure you choose one of the smaller vessels (carrying under 200 passengers) and a voyage that offers excursions to shore by Zodiac. The same is also true for the Arctic indeed, many of the dedicated polar ships operate at both ends of the world. Special mention must be made, however, of an exclusive journey through the fabled Northwest Passage in the company of MD Nick Van Gruisen scheduled for 11–26 August 2017. To sail this historic trade route to China is one of the world’s great seafaring adventures, and aboard the Akademik loffe you will navigate the fjords of Greenland, explore the island archipelagos of Canada’s High Arctic and visit remote Inuit communities on the way. Costs from £8,845 per person, with flights from London and taxes included. See The Directors’ Selection on page 15.

The Polar regions are worlds of rugged beauty - of rock, ice and solitude - most notably Antarctica, where there are no indigenous communities. Head north or south and you’ll experience jaw-dropping ice sculptures the size of cathedrals, horizon-wide glaciers, icy blue-black waters and an infinity of whiteness. Lifeless, frozen deserts they are not, though, but the theatre for some of the world’s rarest and most enchanting creatures. Most people know, of course, that polar bears stick to the north and penguins to the south. Fewer will be aware of the single-tusked narwhals, the elephant and leopard seals, the humpback and minkie whales, the vast colonies of nesting seabirds and the lone albatrosses that collectively bring colour and sound to the very ends of our world. That said, seeing the so-called ‘Lords of the Arctic’ in their natural habitat and at close range from the safety of a ‘tundra buggy’ remains one of the most iconic and spectacular wildlife shows on the planet. Every autumn around a thousand of these

POLAR EXPEDITIONS

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Opposite 1. Giant icebergs near Greenland 2. Akademik Ioffe 3. Northern Lights, Svalbard archipelago 4. Polar bear This page 3. King penguins, South Georgia 4. Antarctic Peninsula 5. Humpback whale

‘ Lifeless, frozen deserts the Poles are not - they are the theatre for some of the world’s rarest and most enchanting creatures’ white goliaths (the polar bear is the world’s largest land-living carnivore) gather around the Canadian town of Churchill to wait for Hudson Bay to freeze over so that they can hunt for their staple diet of fur seal. Our specialist Canada division, Bridge & Wickers, offers small group tours of five nights to Winnipeg and Churchill in October and November. Costs from £3,275 per person, with tundra buggy and dog-sledding excursions, meals in Churchill and regional flights included.

WHEN TO GO The Arctic season runs from June through September, when temperatures rarely fall below 5°C and highs of up to 16°C can be experienced, although wind chill can make it feel significantly cooler. Pack ice can affect cruise itineraries in early June, so July and August are by far the most popular months. The midnight sun remains until late August.

Antarctica is only accessible during the austral summer, from October to March, when, on average, there are 20 hours of sunlight each day. Temperatures average between 1°C and 5°C, rarely falling below -4°C, although wind chill can again have a significant effect. The weather is unpredictable, with poor visibility and precipitation likely, but you can anticipate several clear, sunny days.

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POLAR EXPEDITIONS

I N V I T E YO U TO TA K E YO U R S E AT S F O R O N E O F T H E G R E AT E S T S H OW S O N E A R T H

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