Training the Wor
to Facet Gemstones
TTraining the Wor
to Facet Gemstones
BY AMY GRISAK
Sponsored by ULTRA TEC
BY AMY GRISAK
by ULTRA TEC
he lapidary world continually expands as we experience a resurgence in people faceting colorful gemstones. Encompassing all demographic groups, this enduring artistic medium is accessible to everyone willing to spend the time to learn.
The lapidary world continually expands as we experience a ple faceting colorful gemstones. Encompassing all demographic enduring artistic medium is accessible to everyone willing learn.
e bene t newcomers enjoy these days is the wide range of educational options for learning how to cut gemstones. With the internet and a more open attitude to exchanging ideas, the greatest challenge is nding the best t for your learning style.
e bene t newcomers enjoy these days is the wide range of educational learning how to cut gemstones. With the internet and a more open ing ideas, the greatest challenge is nding the best t for your learning
e good news is that with online or in-person options, you can nd the best course to launch your understanding of the cra and hone your techniques using the best machines available.
e good news is that with online or in-person options, you can to launch your understanding of the cra and hone your techniques machines available.
LEARNING FROM A GEM CUTTING ICON
LEARNING FROM A GEM CUTTING ICON
When many people begin studying faceting, they read the name Mark Oros of Hashnu Gems & Stones so o en that it is obvious he is a xture within the gem-cutting community. What began as a creative project for his entire family turned into a new lifestyle.
When many people begin studying faceting, they read the name Mark Gems & Stones so o en that it is obvious he is a xture within the gem-cutting nity. What began as a creative project for his entire family turned into
Sponsored
is the most accurate like their ergonomics... I choose ULTRA TEC around forever, and be around forever
The ULTRA TEC is the most accurate machine and I like their ergonomics... The other reason I choose ULTRA TEC is...they’ve been around forever, and they’re going to be around forever.”
- Sam Baar
ULTRA TEC VL Classic Machine.
Photo by Marc Shapiro Media
One of his endeavors includes teaching the wave of lapidary artists the technical and ner aspects of turning already beautiful rough gemstones into something worthwhile. He believes there is a resurgence similar to what happened in the 1960s and 1970s, when people were notably artistic and creative, along with a renewed interest in the metaphysical aspects of crystals.
“I get a variety of people who come here for lessons. It’s a combination of genders, ages and purposes,” he says, and might be someone looking for a hobby, a young person eager to launch a business, or a retired individual looking for a supplemental income.
“ ere’s a whole generation of people who are looking into life di erently,” explains Mark, who notes how previous lapidaries were more reluctant to share their knowledge. ere certainly were no YouTube tutorials or internet groups to o er advice, while he now can o er classes via Zoom, if necessary.
Mark approaches teaching from a di erent perspective. He says, “Information is powerful, but only if you share it.”
He teaches one class per month — an intense four-day class. “ ere is a lot of problem-solving,” says Mark, who points out that people need to be able to look at a stone and decide how the color will respond to di erent cuts or how intrusions a ect the stone’s behavior.
“ e ULTRA TEC machines make it easier. I think they’re top-notch,” he notes. He says they cut amethyst and citrine during his class, with the latter focusing on concave work with the ULTRA TEC Fantasy machine.
“ e machines are very good,” he says, which is why he is part of the ULTRA TEC team. “It’s a phenomenal company with phenomenal people. eir engineers are all about precision and repeatability. And they go out in the community and talk to people.”
One of his endeavors includes teaching the wave of lapidary artists the technical and ner aspects of turning already beautiful rough gemstones into something worthwhile. He believes there is a resurgence similar to what happened in the 1960s and 1970s, when people were notably artistic and creative, along with a renewed interest in the metaphysical aspects of crystals.
“I get a variety for lessons. ages and purposes,” be someone person eager retired individual income.
“ ere’s a are looking Mark, who were more reluctant edge. ere tutorials or while he now necessary.
Mark approaches perspective. ful, but only
He teaches intense four-day problem-solving,” out that people stone and decide to di erent stone’s behavior.
“ e ULTRA easier. I think He says they his class, with work with the chine.
A er the initial instruction and subsequent follow-up throughout the course, Mark points out that his students are never alone.
“You have lifetime support when you take a class from me. It’s more important to call me ve to 10 minutes into a problem than ve to 10 hours.”
“ e machines which is why team. “It’s a phenomenal about precision go out in the A er the follow-up throughout points out that
“You have lifetime class from me. ve to 10 minutes 10 hours.”
“People want to get back in touch with the earth because they are disenfranchised with these institutions,” he says. Many look to gem cutting as a business venture, but they need to acquire the knowledge and tools before they embark on such a course.
“People want to get back in touch with the earth because they are disenfranchised with these institutions,” he says. Many look to gem cutting as a business venture, but they need to acquire the knowledge and tools before they embark on such a course.
When they’ve completed these steps under Mark’s tutelage, their pro ciency rivals most commercial cutters and is the rst step toward a professional venture.
“Learning a cra and building a market are two di erent things. It’s just as hard
When they’ve Mark’s tutelage, most commercial toward a professional
“Learning are two di
Above: Hashnu Stones & Gems lapidary studio.
Photo courtesy Mark Oros
Right: Student (Reese) and teacher (Michael) during a lesson at the Hashnu studio. Photo courtesy Mark Oros.
Above: Hashnu Stones & Gems lapidary studio.
Photo courtesy Mark Oros
Right: Student (Reese) and teacher (Michael) during a lesson at the Hashnu studio. Photo courtesy Mark Oros.
Mark multitude students journey, this and teachwriting and machines, just to gemstone journey, but know you’re
to create the business,” he says. Mark recommends considering the multitude of income streams presented as students acquire knowledge. On his own journey, this includes not only faceting gems and teaching others how to do so but also writing and representing ULTRA TEC machines, just to name a few.
relaxed even though they’re working very hard,” Ramon says.
Ramon is also happy to promote this enduring art form in a facility that ts in with the natural setting. He notes, “Our school is completely powered by solar energy. We have zero impact on the earth.”
You never know where the rst gemstone you cut will take you on this journey, but by learning from the best, you know you’re heading in the right direction.
ITALIAN hills of Park, a recentHeritage Site, Gem-Cutting throughfacet gems was once to use for boasts caves features. is bright overlooking the well-lit, and well-organized, no other and it’s very
GEM CUTTING IN THE ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE
Nestled in Northern Italy’s rolling hills of Bolognese Gypsum Regional Park, a recently named UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ramon Tesoro of RTGemart’s Gem-Cutting Academy welcomes students from throughout the world to learn how to facet gems in this beautiful space. is area was once where residents quarried the rock to use for local buildings, and the park boasts caves and other exquisite geological features.
“My students come from outside of Italy,” Ramon says, mentioning Italy’s rich history of gold smithing instead of a traditional focus on gemstones. As a result, it’s di cult to nd anyone in Italy, let alone Europe, who teaches hands-on classes. Fortunately, a passion for faceting stones transcends boundaries, and people from the United States and other parts of the world can learn from this renowned lapidary and teacher.
Every student learns on their own ULTRA TEC machine set up at a workstation in the classroom. “We have ve ULTRA TEC machines,” says Ramon, who spends time with each student as they work through the process. “You have to pay a lot of attention. I want to follow them one by one. We train for nine hours per day, and at the end of the course, I see many impressive results. is is what gives me the force to go on. e end is a big joy to see the result.”
e recently renovated building is bright and airy, with windows overlooking the landscape. e work tables are well-lit, and everything is clean and well-organized, reducing mess and stress. It’s like no other place to learn gem cutting.
“It’s a beautiful environment and it’s very
With an eye focused on perfection, it’s no surprise that he chooses ULTRA TEC machines. “I love ULTRA TEC because I think it is one of the most precise machines
relaxed even though they’re working very hard,” Ramon says.
Ramon is also happy to promote this enduring art form in a facility that ts in with the natural setting. He notes, “Our school is completely powered by solar energy. We have zero impact on the earth.”
“My students come from outside of Italy,” Ramon says, mentioning Italy’s rich history of gold smithing instead of a traditional focus on gemstones. As a result, it’s di cult to nd anyone in Italy, let alone Europe, who teaches hands-on classes. Fortunately, a passion for faceting stones transcends boundaries, and people from the United States and other parts of the world can learn from this renowned lapidary and teacher.
Every student learns on their own ULTRA TEC machine set up at a workstation in the classroom. “We have ve ULTRA TEC machines,” says Ramon, who spends time with each student as they work through the process. “You have to pay a lot of attention. I want to follow them one by one. We train for nine hours per day, and at the end of the course, I see many impressive results. is is what gives me the force to go on. e end is a big joy to see the result.”
With an eye focused on perfection, it’s no surprise that he chooses ULTRA TEC machines. “I love ULTRA TEC because I think it is one of the most precise machines
Students learning
Students learning to facet at Ramon Tesoro’s gem cutting classes in Italy.
Photo courtesy Ramon Tesoro
on the market. e scale on the mast is the most important part of the machine. It saves a lot of time.”
on the market. e scale on the mast is the most important part of the machine. It saves a lot of time.”
e mast on the ULTRA TEC machines is known for its accuracy and repeatability. It allows the cutting to ensure precise cuts every time, which is important whether you are just learning to facet or have been doing it for ages. Knowing your next move is spot on makes the process smoother.
Ramon says his students come from all
walks of life. One of the greatest challenges in teaching new gem cutters is having them visualize these three-dimensional concepts required in faceting. “For some people, it’s not easy. It’s not natural for everyone,” he says. But with his years of working with new and experienced faceters, he can explain these concepts.
e mast on the ULTRA TEC machines is known for its accuracy and repeatability. It allows the cutting to ensure precise cuts every time, which is important whether you are just learning to facet or have been doing it for ages. Knowing your next move is spot on makes the process smoother.
Ramon says his students come from all
O ering approximately 11 classes per year, roughly half for beginners and half for advanced gem cutters, Ramon’s gem cutting academy has a place for everyone. e beauty of Ramon’s gem cutting academy is that the only thing people have to worry about for the 10 days of instruction is focusing on their faceting skills. All accommodations, transportation and Italian cuisine are provided.
FACET CLUB IN ARIZONA
With a degree in archeology, Sam Baar’s mineral journey started with emeralds, which led him to learn how to facet stones to better judge their cut. At the Miners Rock Shop in Tempe, Arizona, he strives to make gem cutting accessible to anyone.
Sam says, “My goal is to get the next generation of faceters interested. I talked to regular customers and formed what I called the ‘Facet Club.’”
Sam decided that by o ering instruction, he found a way for his students to expand their practice of cutting gems. He says, “ ere’s a long waitlist for the faceting club because there’s so much interest in it.”
“For the Facet Club, I don’t charge anything,” he says. It’s about six months until they graduate, and they’ll cut ve stones during the process. Sam says that some people invest in their own machines immediately. In contrast, others continue using the ones at the shop allowing them to build a clientele before expanding their business model.
As an ULTRA TEC representative for the Phoenix area, Sam says that is all they use.
“ e ULTRA TEC is the most accurate machine and I like their ergonomics, especially on the V5,” he says. Sam has the ULTRA TEC V5 and the VL, although he primarily teaches on the V5. He prefers various features of each machine, but he
walks of life. in teaching visualize these required in not easy. It’s says. But with and experienced these concepts.
O ering year, roughly advanced gem academy has of Ramon’s only thing the 10 days faceting skills. portation and
With a degree mineral journey which led him to better judge Shop in Tempe, gem cutting Sam says, generation regular customers the ‘Facet Club.’” Sam decided he found a their practice “ ere’s a long because there’s
“For the thing,” he says. they graduate, during the ple invest in ly. In contrast, at the shop before expanding
As an ULTRA Phoenix area, “ e ULTRA machine and especially on ULTRA TEC primarily teaches various features
Sam Baar helping a student learning the art of faceting.
Photo courtesy Sam Baar
Sam Baar inspecting a gem on the ULTRA TEC faceting machine.
Photo courtesy Sam Baar
Sam Baar helping a student learning the art of faceting.
Photo courtesy Sam Baar
Sam Baar inspecting a gem on the ULTRA TEC faceting machine.
Photo courtesy Sam Baar
di erent
ULTRA TEC around more been around around foressential to enjoy
ering a “It’s been may not are either who e classes nuances to learn gem when instructor show stone. that?” Baltimore strives knowledge 1950s. e share the to teach Klinedinst, vice Gem Cutters
believes the V5 is ergonomically di erent from the VL.
Guild of Baltimore and pro cient lapidary in her own right. “We have people who’ve been members of the guild for 30 to 40 years and those who have been for a month.”
“ e other reason I choose ULTRA TEC is they have been consistently around more than anyone,” he says. “ ey’ve been around forever, and they’re going to be around forever.” Longevity and reliability are essential to many gem cutters who intend to enjoy the art for a long time.
“We’re one of the few lapidary clubs out there who have a fully operational shop,” she explains, and recently, they approved the purchase of six brand-new ULTRA TEC VL CLASSIC machines.
“More recently, we’ve started o ering a ve-week paid course,” he says. “It’s been really fun.”
He says these students may or may not have their own machine, as they are either beginners or experienced faceters who wish to re ne their techniques. e classes are one-on-one to teach them the nuances of cutting. Sam says it’s essential to learn how to listen to the sound of the gem when cutting it, plus have a sound instructor show how much pressure to place on a stone. “How do you make a video of that?”
“We were using very old machines including ULTRA TECs made from the 1970s. It’s a testament to the machines,” she says, although they are very excited for the rst class to use the new machines.
Maggie says, “We started seeing an uptick in inquiries on faceting classes, and the classes ll up within minutes of posting them. We decided we wanted to invest in our faceting program and the purchase of the new machines.”
CUTTING WITH THE GUILD
e Gem Cutters Guild of Baltimore strives to pass on the century’s worth of knowledge in their organization.
She says they start their students with an aggressive pattern, but they are guided every step of the way. One of their instructors, who a ectionately calls ULTRA TEC the Rolls Royce of faceting machines, covers the gauges on the machine to ingrain the basic steps of faceting into the students’ practice.
“We’ve been around since the 1950s. e purpose of the guild is for us to share the lapidary arts with the public and to teach people,” explains Maggie Klinedinst, vice president of the board for the Gem Cutters
A er students complete beginner classes, they are typically anxious to sign up for more. Maggie says that in 2025, they plan on having di erent levels and classes to learn speci c techniques.
Guild of Baltimore and pro cient lapidary in her own right. “We have people who’ve been members of the guild for 30 to 40 years and those who have been for a month.”
“We’re one of the few lapidary clubs out there who have a fully operational shop,” she explains, and recently, they approved the purchase of six brand-new ULTRA TEC VL CLASSIC machines.
“We were using very old machines including ULTRA TECs made from the 1970s. It’s a testament to the machines,” she says, although they are very excited for the rst class to use the new machines.
Maggie says, “We started seeing an uptick in inquiries on faceting classes, and the classes ll up within minutes of posting them. We decided we wanted to invest in our faceting program and the purchase of the new machines.”
She says they start their students with an aggressive pattern, but they are guided every step of the way. One of their instructors, who a ectionately calls ULTRA TEC the Rolls Royce of faceting machines, covers the gauges on the machine to ingrain the basic steps of faceting into the students’ practice.
A er students complete beginner classes, they are typically anxious to sign up for more. Maggie says that in 2025, they plan on having di erent levels and classes to learn speci c techniques.
Happy students and proud teacher at the Gem Cutters Guild of Baltimore.
Photo by Marc Shapiro Media
“ e way people can build upon the skill set is pretty neat. is also gives people the opportunities to try many di erent things,” she says. “ at’s the advantage of a guild.”
Another bene t is being able to utilize the in-house machines once the member demonstrates pro ciency. is allows people to use the machines until they feel comfortable enough to invest in one, and other members are on hand to answer questions.
Maggie says having a guild o ers an exceptional social aspect. “ ere’s something beautiful about creating side-by-side,” she says. Working closely together also allows people to troubleshoot and compare techniques, which breathes life into the process.
FROM MINE TO TABLE
“We are living the wonder of gemstones,” says Noreen Masaki of the Lapidary Training Center in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. “We are creating every new day.”
When it comes to faceting beautiful gems, she views it as an extension of your heart and expressing what you’re feeling inside.
She explains, “Your hand is connected to your heart. Happiness is from the heart. From this, you can create.”
With over 20 years of experience, Noreen says the desire to learn the art is continually increasing among people throughout the world. “Gem cutting used to be secret, but that is no longer the case,” she explains.
She is living proof of this openness as she o ers one-, two-, and six-week courses to introduce people to the art and elevate them to a level where they can consider
themselves professionals. It’s people of all ages and all walks of life, from a gemologist looking to understand better how to look at a gem and visualize a nished product to someone who has no experience and is up for an adventure.
Part of her courses involves working closely with, and sometimes touring, the local gem mines.
“People want to see where the stones are coming from,” she says, noting that this often gives them con dence because it makes the stones more real.
“ e way people can build upon the skill set is pretty neat. is also gives people the opportunities to try many di erent things,” she says. “ at’s the advantage of a guild.”
Another bene t is being able to utilize the in-house machines once the member demonstrates pro ciency. is allows people to use the machines until they feel comfortable enough to invest in one, and other members are on hand to answer questions.
Many times, people are intrigued a er the one-week course and opt for the two-week course. “We can elaborate more on the techniques. It gives them more con dence,” she says.
ose who opt for the six-week class learn all of the necessary techniques, backed by ample practice and hands-on work, to elevate them to a professional faceting level. Noreen says by the time they nish, they can visualize how to take this rough-cut gem and bring out its stunning qualities.
Maggie says having a guild o ers an exceptional social aspect. “ ere’s something beautiful about creating side-by-side,” she says. Working closely together also allows people to troubleshoot and compare techniques, which breathes life into the process.
FROM MINE TO TABLE
“We are living the wonder of gemstones,” says Noreen Masaki of the Lapidary Training Center in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. “We are creating every new day.”
Noreen is familiar with all of ULTRA TEC’s machines and admires the V2s, which still cut beautifully, but she leans toward the V5. “I prefer the V5, where I can spin the top and move the mast up and down,” she says because it o ers her a spot-on degree of accuracy in every cut.
When it comes to faceting beautiful gems, she views it as an extension of your heart and expressing what you’re feeling inside.
“ e V5 classic is my favorite... until they have something else,” she laughs, implying that ULTRA TEC is an innovative company that continually improves its designs. “It is a very steady mast. You can feel the stone is held in place.”
She explains, “Your hand is connected to your heart. Happiness is from the heart. From this, you can create.”
She also appreciates being able to cut an angle to a 10th of a degree, eliminating guesswork and allowing her to be precise.
With over 20 years of experience, Noreen says the desire to learn the art is continually increasing among people throughout the world. “Gem cutting used to be secret, but that is no longer the case,” she explains.
“I also teach very intelligent people who prefer exact numbers. With the digital machine, I can show them,” Noreen says.
She also appreciates the concave cutting mode and the index splitter, commonly called the “cheater,” which she thinks should be called something else since it is a valuable tool for re ning the stone to your desired appearance.
Part of her closely with, local gem mines.
“People want coming from,” ten gives them the stones Many times, one-week course course. “We techniques. she says. ose who all of the necessary by ample practice elevate them Noreen says visualize how and bring out Noreen is TEC’s machines still cut beautifully, V5. “I prefer top and move says because accuracy in “ e V5 have something that ULTRA that continually a very steady held in place.”
She also an angle to guesswork
“I also teach prefer exact machine, I
She also mode and called the “cheater,” be called something tool for re appearance.
She is living proof of this openness as she o ers one-, two-, and six-week courses to introduce people to the art and elevate them to a level where they can consider themselves ages and all looking to at a gem and someone who for an adventure.
Students at the Lapidary Training Center in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania.
Photo courtesy Noreen Masaki
Students at the Lapidary Training Center in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Photo courtesy Noreen Masaki
Guide for Gemstone Faceting
Resource Guide for Learning Gemstone Faceting
Hands-On Training
Europe & Africa
Hubert Heldner &
Switzerland & Tanzania– Hubert Heldner & Noreen Masaki https://www.free-form.ch/
https://www.rtgemart.com/en/content/
Italy – Ramon Tessoro https://www.rtgemart.com/en/content/ 7-gem-cutting-courses
Sylvie & Franz Haas
https://www.edel-steine.ch/ https://bearstoneshop.com/kyoshitsu/
Grand River Gems
https://www.facebook.com/FacetingFun
Switzerland – Stei-egge Sylvie & Franz Haas https://www.edel-steine.ch/
Asia
Japan – Adam Bigelow https://bearstoneshop.com/kyoshitsu/ Taiwan / Indonesia – Grand River Gems https://www.facebook.com/FacetingFun
United States
Miners Rock Shop
https://www.minersrockshop.com/ www.mitchelljewelrystudio.com
Hashnu Stones
Arizona – Sam Baar, Miners Rock Shop https://www.minersrockshop.com/ faceting-classes
Florida – Tom Mitchell www.mitchelljewelrystudio.com
New York – Mark Oros, Hashnu Stones www.hashnustones.com
International Faceting
www.facetingacademy.com
Oregon – John Bailey, International Faceting Academy www.facetingacademy.com
(Fantasy Cutting
Tennessee – Larry Mattos (Fantasy Cutting Specialist) www.ashtongems.com
One-On-One Online Instruction
Mark Oros, Hashnu Stones via Zoom www.hashnustones.com
Self-Paced Learning - Online Videos
Steve Moriarty, Moriarty’s Gem Art www.moregems.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/ UCJ-nqExW39TRBF5OH6nnDMw
Arya Akhavan “Faceting 101” Series https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=5uKVH0VGrfo
Bopie’s Diamonds & Fine Jewelry https://www.youtube.com/@ BOPIESDiamondsFineJewelry
Dr. Reg Williams
ULTRA TEC Fantasy Machine https://youtu.be/L3JjGmbvyrk?si=n_ suWBridi2yi_MP
ULTRA TEC Video Showcase https://www.ultratec-facet.com/category/ video-showcase/
Lapidary Clubs & Societies
Gem Cutters Guild of Baltimore, Maryland www.gemcuttersguild.com
Old Pueblo Lapidary Club, Tucson, Arizona http://www.lapidaryclub.org/
Houston Gem and Mineral Society www.hgms.org
Rock & Gem Clubs Page www.rockngem.com
