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Training Days

Inspired by Vietnam’s beauty and the luxurious rail travel of the past, a journey on The Vietage train is not to be missed. Mark Jones is on board

It’s at least a five-hour drive between Hôi An in central Vietnam to Quy Nhon further south. And that’s a long and hard five hours. Or you take the Saigon Express. Correction: you hop on a carriage that is hitched to the back of the Saigon Express

Opt for the latter, and you’ll not only be travelling alongside the shores of the South China Sea but you’ll be experiencing one of the most novel and luxurious journeys in all of South East Asia.

It’s called The Vietage (thevietagetrain.com), and it’s a service dreamed up by Anantara in partnership with Vietnam railways to link its two properties.

Unesco-listed Hôi An is justly famous for its waterways and historic streets. And while Quy Nhon doesn’t have much to boast about, the all-villa Anantara resort, situated along a private stretch of beach and surrounded by mountains on three sides, is adding lustre to the region.

The journey starts at Da Nang Station. If the station is Soviet-inspired, the carriage is much more Agatha Christie than Joseph Stalin. Window booths sit behind rattan screens. There is a curved marble bar for socialising before your three-course meal and – not something you get in Murder on the Orient Express – a massage room if the stress gets too much.

Further ameliorating the comforting nature of the trip are the soothing views, a succession of bright green paddy fields and small, mildewed villages which you encounter along the way as you sip your tea.

After a day exploring the Cham heritage around Quy Nhon, or enjoying the quiet beach, you take the late-night train back. When full, there are only 12 guests. We were lucky: we had the train, and Vietnam, to ourselves.