SUN, SAND AND SEA : THE ASCENT OF ATHENS SUBAQUATIC SECONDS
WEST COAST COOL ROAD RESPLENDENCE
MOUNTAIN HIGH AND MUCH MORE... GO TO MOBILE VERSION
SUN, SAND AND SEA : THE ASCENT OF ATHENS SUBAQUATIC SECONDS
WEST COAST COOL ROAD RESPLENDENCE
MOUNTAIN HIGH AND MUCH MORE... GO TO MOBILE VERSION
ENJOY AN OVERNIGHT STAY IN EVERY DESTINATION FOR DEEPER EXPLORATION
Immersing yourself in lavish luxury and discovering intriguing new sights, cuisines and landscapes are surely some of life’s greatest pleasures. With that in mind, Regent’s Immersive Overnights adventures have been carefully curated to o er you maximum time to explore. With an overnight stay in every destination and our hallmark o ering of Included & Unlimited Shore Excursions, this is a wonderful opportunity to delve deeper into the Mediterranean’s ancient history and timeless allure.
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Welcoming
BANGKOK, THAILAND
TO THE SIAM
DEOS MYKONOS
MYKONOS, GREECE &
| LONDON | CANNES | COURCHEVEL | MEGÈVE | PARIS | CORFU
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80 Houndsditch, London, EC3A 7AB
T: +44 (0) 20 7118 6888 enquiry.pplon@panpacific.com @panpacificlondon
Bringing gracious luxury to the City through contemporary design, Pan Pacific London o ers a sense of peace and calm.
Indulge in a distinctive London experience, from bustling market stalls to Michelin-starred eateries and iconic landmarks, all conveniently on our doorstep.
15 • Editor’s Letter All hail the great summer getaway. By
Farhad Heydari
17 • Haute Properties
The latest GHA news, including high-octane collaborations and new member hotels. By Julie Alpine
26 • The Shortlist
Sunshine-fuelled diversions, from a hot-ticket UAE art expo to Hellenic helicopter rides. By Ultratravel editors
31 • Into the Blue
Yes, they can withstand extreme pressure, but today’s dive watches are also designed to turn heads. By Chris Hall
37 • West Coast Cool
Must-visit hotspots in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada’s famously liveable seaport hub. By Nigel Tisdall
SUMMER 2024
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Farhad Heydari
Farhad@ultratravel.com
@MrFarhadHeydari
SENIOR EDITOR
Julie Alpine
42 • Grecian Splendour Eat, shop, soak up some Athenian culture, repeat: an essential guide to Greece’s buzzy capital. By Sahar Khan
50 • Licence to Thrill
It’s a luxury SUV, but not as we know it... Behind the wheel of Aston Martin’s all-new DBX. By Adam Hay-Nicholls
COVER IMAGE: ANANTARA SANTORINI ABU DHABI RETREAT, POOLSIDE @Ultratravel ultratravel.com
CHAIRMAN
Nick Perry
Nick@ultratravel.com @MrNickPerry
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Cowan
CONTRIBUTORS
Chris Hall, Adam Hay-Nicholls, Sahar Khan, Nigel Tisdall
The desire to either make a littoral beeline or head for the hills, or both, for a bit of R&R during the long days of the summer is a well-practised one.
Regardless of where we live, our collective wish is to decamp somewhere suitably sunny for stretches of restorative somnambulance, complemented by the rewarding company of family and friends, great food and wine and surroundings that are both pleasant and peaceful.
In this edition of , we visit two such conurbations, both offering summertime attractions and diversions in spades this season.
Firstly, we travel to Athens, where, alongside ancient ruins and its many noted cultural attractions, the Greek capital is on the rise and developing a reputation as something of a sybaritic seaside sanctuary.
As Sahar Khan reports on page 42, the retail therapy ain’t too bad either.
Then we travel halfway around the world and check in on Vancouver, which has always been known as an outdoorsy city that punches way above its weight. As Nigel Tisdall highlights on page 37, there is a reason that this Pacific seaport always tops the charts as one of the most desirable places to live on the planet.
For those of you taking the plunge, either in the Aegean or in the Strait of Georgia, we also have a round-up of new dive watches to covet and collect and, should you wish to head into the hills, a review of the latest luxury SUV from Aston Martin.
We hope you enjoy these stories and more in this summer issue of our celebratory 20th-anniversary year, and we wish you sunny climes wherever you are.
“There is a reason that Vancouver always tops the charts as one of the most desirable places to live on the planet”
Global Hotel Alliance continues to go from strength to strength, with exciting new collaborations, member properties and even a scenic rail service in Vietnam set to tempt discerning travellers, writes Julie Alpine
SWISS BLISS
Opening in September, The Set Collection’s Ultima Gstaad Promenade promises to be a next-level mountain retreat
The strength of the GHA ecosystem undoubtedly lies in its multifariousness – after all, the alliance quite literally spans every corner of the globe with its bold boltholes, its classic grande dames and its unimpeachable stalwarts. And where it doesn’t have a foothold, it creates one, which in turn creates a huge buzz. Case in point, Azerbaijan’s picturesque Caspian Sea coast, where all eyes are on GHA member Nikki Beach Hospitality Group (nikkibeach.com), currently making waves with this month’s launch of a luxurious pop-up beach club in Baku. The catch-it-while-you-can hotspot is located on the site of the brand’s permanent resort and beach club – set to open in 2025 as part of the Sea Breeze seaside resort – and will remain in situ till mid-September. The pop-up’s busy calendar includes signature parties, live music and special events when the Azerbaijan Grand Prix roars into town. Guests can also look forward to a restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, an impressive wine cellar, a shimmering pool surrounded by daybeds, lounge areas and an outdoor bar.
“We are delighted to bring the Nikki Beach concept to the vibrant city of Baku,” says Nikki Beach co-founder and CEO Lucia Penrod. “This pop-up beach club not only introduces our unique lifestyle to a new audience but also sets the foundation for our future full-service resort within the innovative Sea Breeze community.”
Nikki Beach Saint Tropez is also having a busy summer, thanks to an exclusive partnership with American fashion designer Tory Burch. Running from 16 July until the end of
“GHA spans the globe with its bold boltholes and classic grande dames”
the season, a unique activation will showcase Burch’s new summer capsule collection, which features colours that evoke the sand and sea. Think 20 daybeds and cabanas embellished with Tory Burch prints and patterns on bed covers, pillows and umbrellas, along with a vintage-inspired zebra print-wrapped bar serving up mocktails, native and international wines and healthy smoothies. Pleasure-seekers will also have at their disposal a selection of oversized beach games and the traditional French game of, pétanque. And keep your eyes peeled for the co-branded Mini Moke that will be zipping around the chic Riviera resort.
The Set Collection (thesetcollection.com), meanwhile, which was founded in 2011 with a quartet of hotels in London, Amsterdam, Paris and Jerusalem, has proudly announced the addition of two superlative new Swiss properties, swelling its portfolio to a total of 20 luxurious hotels and private residences. Opening this month, lakeside haven Ultima Geneva Quai Wilson is nestled on the south-west shore of Lac Léman in the heart of the city, comprising five
MAKING A SPLASH
Below top: Nikki Beach’s summer beach club pop-up is delighting residents in the Azerbaijani capital of Baku
Below
spot for sundowners?
Drivers, to your starting positions. GHA partner Regent Seven Seas Cruises has unveiled a new collaboration with the iconic Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team, whose track record of bringing exhilarating joy to its fans is as legendary as that of The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet.
A highlight of the partnership will be the just-announced Spotlight Voyage aboard the new Seven Seas Splendor, hosted by former Spanish racing driver Pedro de la Rosa. Combining the rush of the open sea and the thrill of high-stakes motor racing, the 10-night Barcelona-to-Rome (Civitavecchia) adventure sets sail on 22 July 2025, with de la Rosa joined on board by Aston Martin Aramco engineers and executives who will offer a series of workshops focused on innovation and design. Thanks to Regent’s dedication to delivering genuinely unique experiences, speed aficionados will also be able to check out the replica Aston Martin on board, and test their mettle in an Aston Martin driving simulator. (rssc.com)
sumptuous full-floor apartments adorned with high-end Italian materials and offering uninterrupted views of the sparkling water. The second new member of the family, Ultima Gstaad Promenade, arrives as the region’s largest and most cosseting private chalet. From September, guests will be able to take advantage of its state-of-the-art spa, private cinema, playroom, private disco and fully stocked bar.
In good news for slow travel and sustainability – as well as for lovers of glamour and nostalgia – The Vietage by Anantara (thevietagetrain.com) has introduced a second railway carriage in Vietnam, operating the five-hour journey between Nha Trang and Quy Nhon daily. Capitalising on the runaway success of the existing carriage operating between Da Nang and Quy Nhon, the custom-designed addition will transport passengers to Vietnam’s unofficial seafood capital, Nha Trang, promising timeless travel experiences through the unforgettable landscapes of south-central Vietnam.
Barefoot luxury more your thing? In that case, let us introduce you to the recently opened Anantara Santorini Abu Dhabi Retreat (anantara.com), which enjoys a prime location on the coast halfway between Abu Dhabi and Dubai. The intimate, adult-only property is a serene 22-key oasis sporting design inspired by the eponymous Greek island.
Last, but not least, an exciting new partnership between leading Asian hospitality group Galaxy Entertainment and Capella Hotels and Resorts (capellahotels.com) heralds the 2025 opening of Capella at Galaxy Macau, the first Capella property in the Greater Bay area.
Designed by acclaimed Parisian firm Moinard Bétaille, the luxurious complex will encompass 36 Sky Villas and 57 suites arranged across 17 storeys, with lush, jungle-inspired interiors and far-reaching views. Picture spacious balconies, a glass-edged infinity pool, outdoor lounge, sunroom and secret winter garden. Perfect for larger groups, the contemporary villas are kitted out with all the amenities you’ll need to ensure that your long-anticipated getaway goes with a bang, including a karaoke room with dedicated cigar butler, private cocktail bar and games room.
programme
GHA DISCOVERY, which is shared by the 40 independent brands of Global Hotel Alliance, who between them boast more than 800 hotels in 100 countries, didn’t get to be the 26 million-member-strong loyalty programme that it is today without listening to what its guests want and value most.
During the programme’s in-depth 2024 research, conducted in collaboration with Bond Brand Loyalty, some two million GHA DISCOVERY members were quizzed about what motivated them to stay at a hotel.
The most cited reason given by respondents was that the property will be of good quality (97%), followed by convenient location (92%) and loyalty programme benefits (90%).
Perks and benefits associated with hotel loyalty programmes, the study proves, are the features most important to members, more than rewards and discounts. Room upgrades continue to be the benefit members value most, across tiers, along with other in‐hotel benefits such as complimentary breakfast and late checkout.
More than three-quarters of elite members say GHA DISCOVERY makes them feel valued. Elite members also have the strongest understanding of how the programme works, from earning and redemption to the value of DISCOVERY Dollars (D$) rewards.
Looking ahead at ways to enhance the programme, luxury customers have expressed an interest in expanded options for how to earn and spend D$, such as through partnerships with airlines and restaurants.
For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download
Something to celebrate? Look to the multi-award-winning Regent Seven Seas Cruises for memories that will last a lifetime
“The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet promises to be a revelation – as does the unrivalled all - inclusive Regent experience”
In her much-loved poem A Summer Day, the late American poet Mary Oliver poses the question: “Tell me, what is it you plan to do / With your one wild and precious life?”
Whether it’s a big birthday or a bar mitzvah, a golden anniversary or a golden getaway with those friends who never fail to make you laugh, planning celebratory adventures to mark life’s landmark moments big and small is a time-honoured way to make cherished memories with loved ones. But, if you’re looking for incredible, Instagram-worthy destinations, from the Caribbean to the Mediterranean, remarkable, expert-led local excursions, lavish amenities and gastronomic nirvana, don’t make the mistake of thinking that a hotel is your only option.
For those completely new to cruising, as well as for those who’ve already sailed the globe and are simply new to Regent Seven Seas Cruises, The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet promises to be a revelation – as does the unrivalled all-inclusive Regent experience. Keeping track of added extras on that long-anticipated multi-gen family reunion will be a cinch – because there aren’t any. Everything from unlimited shore excursions to gourmet meals, drinks – including fine wines and spirits – pre-paid gratuities, laundry and unlimited WiFi is covered, meaning that no one will ever have to remember to pick up their wallet when setting off for a refreshing dip in the pool.
There are six elegant ships in the Regent fleet, designed for between 496 and 746 discerning guests – each one taking the form of a floating hotel as comfortable as any of the 800+ luxury properties in Regent partner GHA’s portfolio. Whichever cruise category you opt for, superlative personalised service is guaranteed, thanks to some of the most generous crew-to-guest ratios in the sector. And, crucially, with the knowledge and wisdom learned over three decades of excellence in delivering unparalleled cruising experiences, Regent knows exactly what it’s doing when it comes to hosting milestone occasions.
If you’re a discriminating traveller seeking the ultimate fusion of opulence and adventure and have a special something to celebrate – marking the moment with an indulgent Serene Spa & Wellness treatment, perhaps, or on a gastronomic voyage of discovery courtesy of Regent’s acclaimed Epicurean Perfection programme – all while experiencing a rich tapestry of cultures, cuisines and landscapes, in more than 550 ports of call worldwide, Regent has your back.
Be it a graduation, a retirement, or simply the anniversary of the day that you and your favourite cooking companion finally nailed your secret hot sauce recipe, Regent Seven Seas Cruises will take care of everything, with no attention to detail spared. Leaving you free to get on with spending that rare and precious life in style. rssc.com
What’s hot, what to buy and what to know, as compiled by Ultratravel editors
Bastille Parfums’ latest explosive bouquet, 14 Juillet, honours France’s eponymous national day of celebration with a tangy dazzle of tangerine, amplified by the extra sparkle of blackcurrant. The result? A fizz of olfactory fireworks. bastilleparfums.com
“Awakenings” is the theme of this year’s edition of Abu Dhabi’s much-anticipated annual Art Here exhibition and competition the Richard Mille Art Prize. Made possible thanks to the close partnership between the eponymous Swiss watchmaking brand and Louvre Abu Dhabi, the prestigious award supports the region’s dynamic art scene by championing local artists. Made up of a roll call of cultural luminaries, the just-announced jury includes Advisor to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs H.H. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan bin Khalifa Al Nahyan, who is the founder and chairman of “UAE Unlimited”, a satellite platform designed to raise the profile of emerging UAE art talent. Catch the thoughtprovoking exhibition from 20 September to 15 December. louvreabudhabi.ae; richardmille .com
ARTISTIC LICENCE
Clockwise from top right: Lamya Gargash; Nicène Kossentini; Sarah Almehairi Moataz Nasr; and Férielle
Doulain-Zouari are among artists to have been shortlisted for Abu Dhabi’s Art Here 2024
It’s been the source of enormous consternation for the jet set travelling around the Greek isles: connectivity. But that’s all set to change following the news that hoper has debuted as the first and only helicopter airline to offer daily scheduled flights in Greece. Fans of Hellenic island-hopping will welcome the operator’s fixed routes and departure times, with regular flights connecting Athens to some of the most spectacularly beautiful and remote destinations the Aegean has to offer in less than 45 minutes. flyhoper.com
A celebration unlike any other, The Dalmore 21 is a release of exceptional character, befitting a true masterpiece, with a composition featuring a refined house style of bitter chocolate, Seville blood orange and subtle spice, chased by notes of coffee on the nose, sweet liquorice on the palette and peaches on the finish: exceptional thedalmore.com
A pair of boldfaced names have entered the world of gin. Cygnet (cygnet-distillery.com), based in Wales, is the brainchild of operatic mezzo-soprano Katherine Jenkins and an ode to her native land, with two award-winning expressions created from the finest natural botanicals and purest water that’s already garnering accolades in its first year in business. Down under, Margot Robbie and friends spent five years developing Papa Salt Coastal Gin (papasaltgin.com), an easy-to-drink, small-batch gin that has also been resoundingly lauded and references the Barbie star’s Gold Coast upbringing.
Mindfulness City, Bhutan’s new economic hub, is in the pipeline – and it promises to be a unique mountain metropolis
THEY DRIVE ON THE LEFT IN BHUTAN, but the similarities between the UK and this small, carbon-negative Himalayan country end there. The kingdom’s only airport, Paro International, sees nothing like the footfall of, say, London Heathrow: in fact, only 24 pilots in the world are certified to make the landing here – a manual- and bydaylight-only affair that sees the aircraft approach between cinematically dramatic, 5,486m peaks onto a short runway only visible for moments before touchdown. More compelling for the Zen-seeking luxury traveller in the year 2024, though, is that Bhutan is the only country to pursue happiness as a state policy, having in 1971 rejected GDP as a measure of progress in favour of the principles of gross national happiness.
Today, as the Land of the Thunder Dragon marks a half-century of tourism, it’s clear that the assimilation of tech has brought modernisation in its wake. TikTok is huge in Bhutan: farmers sell their products on it; monks dance on it. But signs
“Bhutan is the only country to pursue happiness as a state policy”
“It’s not only about making money and working like a horse, but peace of mind”
Left: the planned airport that will serve Bhutan’s one-of-akind economic hub
Below centre: one of Mindfulness City’s bridges will be dedicated to national craft and culture
Bottom right: the exterior of the development’s spiritual centre
Bottom left: Bhutanese guide Dorji Bahdi
of the country’s wellbeing-over-material-growth ethos remain central – and nowhere more so than in the ambitious plans for the country’s new economic hub, Mindfulness City. The recently announced 1,000sq km development will be located in the country’s southerly town of Gelephu, near the border with India, with its blueprint showing a low- to midrise metropolis connected by state-of-the-art inhabitable bridges. It will host businesses screened and invited based on their respect for the Bhutanese way of life, sustainable and equitable development and sovereignty.
Bhutan’s King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, who, nationally, enjoys the kind of popularity usually reserved for Hollywood A-listers, said in December that the country is “not trapped by legacy and can innovate swiftly to implement plans that other countries might hesitate to pursue”.
But don’t expect to see only pinstriped suits. Traditional national dress is still worn by most Bhutanese: for women, the kira, an ankle-length dress consisting of a rectangular piece of patterned woven fabric worn wrapped around the body and pinned at both shoulders; for men, the gho, a knee-length robe tied with a handwoven belt, and the tego, a white jacket with long, folded-back cuffs, all finished off with knee-high black socks and polished shoes.
Department of Tourism-accredited guide Dorji Bahdi told Ultratravel: “As per our king’s vision, Mindfulness City is going to help reverse Bhutan’s brain drain, where, in recent years, young people have tended to move overseas for work. It will be a hotspot not for biodiversity but for business, where people are happy. It’s not only about making money and working like a horse, but peace of mind.”
Situated between the picturesque Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals, Pulitzer Amsterdam spans across twenty-five interconnecting 17th and 18th-century canal houses portraying a blend of mid-century décor with contemporary luxury and modern influences. Discover the capital with a canal cruise on one of the hotel’s unique vessels and recover in the tranquil inner garden for afternoon drinks.
Pulitzeramsterdam.com
A neighborhood in its own right
Artfully designed, Pulitzer’s Collector’s Suites are named after their imagined past. Taking its inspiration from the city’s rich botanical culture, the Flower Collector’s Suite echoes the ornate glass panelling of vintage greenhouses, lush floral tones of Amsterdam’s flower market and of course, the celebrated Dutch tulip.
As well as being great under pressure, the most in-demand dive watches of today also boast enviable good looks, finds Chris Hall
The idea of a diving watch – for civilians, at least – came into its own in the 1950s, but it was as long ago as 1914 that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf first impressed upon his staff the importance of developing a water-resistant watch. Over the 110 years since, no company has done quite as much to guarantee that no matter how deep, dark or dangerous the assignment, mankind could expect to be able to tell the time.
In 1971, the watchmaker partnered with the renowned French diving specialist COMEX to create the Sea-Dweller, a model suitable for saturation divers. Survival underwater is all about having a case strong enough to withstand enormous pressure, and to engineer watches to meet COMEX’s needs, Rolex needed to work with the firm to even create machines capable of pressure-testing its watches. The most up to date of such devices is about the size of a beer keg, and looks like something Tom Cruise would have to defuse (under, one imagines, extreme pressure of a different kind).
Until now, the timepieces that were lowered into its hyperbaric innards were exclusively stainless steel tool
Previous page: Panerai’s Submersible Lab-ID marries good looks and technical innovation
HISTORY IN THE MAKING
Left: the iconic, solid gold Black Bay 58 from
offshoot Tudor represents 60 years of Swiss-made dive watch excellence
Below: with the Defy Revival A3648, the 1865-founded Zenith proves that it’s as good at making watches for divers as it is for pilots
watches, but at some point in the last couple of years, batches of quite different models arrived in the test chamber: the new-for-2024 Rolex Deepsea in yellow gold (rolex.com) Massive and lustrous as only a solid gold Rolex can be, this is quite a departure for the brand’s hardcore dive watch. There are no question marks over its technical capabilities – this is Rolex, after all – but the idea of a 3,900m-rated dive watch in 18k gold and blue ceramic is a wild one. It is representative of what has happened to the dive watch market as a whole in recent years: the once-humble device has evidently become a showstopper statement watch, a vehicle for self-expression
and flamboyance as characterful as any dress watch or tourbillon. Rolex’s younger brother Tudor also released a solid gold diver this year, the green-dialled Black Bay 58 (tudorwatch.com). Water-resistant to 200m, it retails for roughly 10 times as much as its steel siblings.
Dive watches have long been brightly coloured for improved visibility, a characteristic that’s riffed on in the new Breitling Superocean Automatic (breitling.com), which pairs a health-and-safety-yellow strap with a full rainbow of hour markers. At Zenith, another brand better known for its aviation designs, the dazzling orange of the Defy Revival A3648 (zenith-watches.com) is a direct throwback to a forgotten reference of the late 1960s, which, at just 37mm across, proves that a classic dive watch can integrate neatly with today’s fondness for smaller models.
Elsewhere, watchmakers at Panerai and Singer Reimagined have demonstrated that the dive watch’s reputation for simplicity is no barrier to innovation. The Italian brand debuted a remarkable concept watch in June, the Submersible Elux Lab-ID (panerai.com), a technical tour de force that powers an array of LED lights embedded in the dial, hands and bezel using nothing but the mechanical energy stored in no fewer than four tightly coiled springs. Capable of an impressive 30 minutes of sustained illumination, it’s a masterpiece of micro-engineering – and, at 49mm across
Above: the Breitling Superocean Automatic is technical, durable and available in a wide range of colours
Below and right: the DiveTrack, Singer’s feature-packed mechanical chronograph, helps keep divers safe
without its protruding pushers and switches, something of a leviathan. Thankfully, Panerai has also spent eight years developing a proprietary new lightweight blend of ceramic and titanium for the case.
Singer, meanwhile, has pivoted its expertise in motoring chronographs to seafaring matters with the DiveTrack (singerdivetrack.com), a 24-hour chronograph designed to enable you to accurately time every stage of your dip, including the safe wait necessary before flying home afterwards. The actual time of day is relegated to an ingenious display mounted in the side of the watch, visible at the six o’clock point on the case. Sitting at the wafer-thin Venn diagram intersection between hand-finished high horology and oversized, over-engineered dive technology, it is undoubtedly a rare groove, but as a sign that dive watches are once again bursting with new ideas, it – along with the others assembled here – is it impossible to ignore.
CASTAWAY ISLAND FIJI TAKES GREAT CARE IN ITS STEWARDSHIP
A founding member of MES Fiji (Mamanuca Environment Society) and a leading advocate of environmental sustainability in tourism development, Castaway’s collective actions include coral planting, beach and underwater clean-up, fish house making and coastal tree planting, in addition to back-of-house goals such as reducing energy, water and waste while working alongside like-minded local non-profit organizations.
Green Collection, thoughtfully designed for today's discerning guests, celebrates its 1st anniversary.
With people and the planet at heart, our luxury hotels, resorts, and palaces ensure your stay contributes to positive change and responsible tourism, while supporting local communities and preserving natural beauty.
Join us in shaping a more sustainable future, one greener getaway at a time.
#GHAGreenerGetaways
Cosmopolitan, welcoming and seriously photogenic, the vibrant seaport of Vancouver, in Canada’s south-west corner, is not known as one of the world’s most liveable cities for nothing, says Nigel Tisdall
It’s easy to see why Vancouver is considered one of the most desirable places to be on the planet. Last month, it ranked seventh in the Economist Intelligence Unit’s annual Global Liveability Index, which assesses 173 cities worldwide. When you factor in that it rains here 169 days a year on average, that’s pretty impressive – and a big hint that summer is the best time to pay a visit.
One reason for this is immediately obvious: Vancouver is ridiculously easy on the eye, cradled between the Pacific Ocean and snow-capped mountains, with beaches, fjords and forests all within easy reach. Another is the city’s multicultural energy – this is Canada’s third-largest hub and a major gateway to the Far East, with well-established Chinese and South Asian communities. A further plus is that Vancouver actually likes visitors and hosted over 10 million in 2023. While other destinations may be struggling with overtourism, a survey in April found that 80% of residents valued the contribution travellers made to Canada’s economy – and almost as many said they took pride in welcoming them.
The pleasures start the moment you land at Vancouver International Airport and discover its surprising calm. The spacious terminals are enlivened by monumental First Nations artworks carved from red cedar that depict ceremonial masks, sacred trees and mythical birds. From here, travelling to Downtown takes a mere 30 minutes on the SkyTrain, which speeds north to cross a Fraser River littered with timber logs floated down from the immense interior of British Columbia.
To get the best from the city, it’s well worth splashing out on a harbour-view guest room in one of the top-name high-rise hotels that adorn the waterfront, such as the 15-storey Pan Pacific Vancouver. From your room or suite here, you can admire the constant coming and going of ferries, seaplanes, helicopters, yachts and cruise ships. Few cities offer such a compelling union of urban fun and glorious nature, and the moment the sun starts shining, everyone comes out to play.
Rising to 1,250m, Grouse Mountain (grousemountain.com) is just a 30-minute drive north and an exhilarating way to grab some fresh air while savouring panoramic views that stretch as far as the Cascade mountain range in Washington state. While some hike up – a 2,830-step challenge known as the Grouse Grind – there’s also a leisurely gondola ride that makes the ascent in eight minutes. A star attraction here is Grinder and Coola, two orphaned grizzly bears who have been resident since 2001, when the motherless cubs were found by the roadside.
For an even better overview, take to the skies in a seaplane. Among several companies offering scenic flights is the indigenous-owned Gulf Island Seaplanes (gulfislandseaplanes.com), which will speed you across the water for a 20-minute spin soaring above the skyscrapers and coastline in a five-passenger de Havilland Otter. Want a longer trip? Consider the new “Flights ’n’ Flowers” package from Harbour Air (harbourair.com), which flies to Vancouver Island. On the ground, you can spend a couple of hours admiring the vivid blooms of the 120-year-old Butchart Gardens, before returning to Downtown.
POLE POSITION
It’s no surprise that the upscale activewear brand Lululemon was founded in Vancouver – this is a city where the locals love an outdoor adventure, preferably one dressed in the latest kit. To join them, jump on a bike – exploring either independently or on a guided group trip
NATURAL HIGHS
Grouse Mountain’s 100-person gondola offers bird’s-eye views of the city and the sparkling Pacific
FLIGHT OF FANCY
A de Havilland Otter glides over the calm waters of English Bay, north-west of BC’s Burrard Peninsula
TOUR DE FORCE
Make tracks to the 400-hectare Stanley Park for a bike ride that takes in totem poles and a beaver dam
NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM
The Great Hall at Vancouver’s reopened MOA, designed by Arthur Erickson
Left: the Pearl Room at Hawksworth Restaurant serves as the perfect backdrop for elegant lunches and dinners
Below: stop for al fresco drinks at The Keefer Bar
with Cycle City Vancouver (cyclevancouver.com). One of the best tours it offers is a three-hour ride circling the 400-hectare, island-like Stanley Park, which has been protected since 1888. Among many enlightening stops are a cluster of elaborately carved totem poles, a monumental, 600-year-old Douglas fir tree and a beaver dam – wonders you don’t normally find in your average city park. Equally rewarding is a guide-led paddle at sunset with Jericho Beach Kayak (jerichobeachkayak.com) Setting out from English Bay, you head west into the choppy waves, then turn around to admire Vancouver’s towering skyline, bathed in the orange glow of the sinking sun.
For a cultural moment, take a 12-minute ride on the passenger-only SeaBus ferry to Vancouver’s North Shore. Here, MONOVA (monova.ca) is a modern heritage museum that reveals the stories behind the city’s migrant communities, including, but not limited to, British, Iranian and Ugandan Asian. Also check out the changing exhibitions at the contemporary Vancouver Art Gallery (vanartgallery.bc.ca) in Hornby Street and the much-lauded Museum of Anthropology (moa.ubc.ca), which reopened this June after an 18-month upgrade.
Exploring this vibrant city will soon make you hungry, so it is a boon that Vancouver has a thriving and diverse food scene. Tuck into everything from Ukrainian perogies (dumplings) and Japanese hot dogs to candied salmon and bison pot roast. Deciding where to go has been helped by the arrival of an annual Michelin guide, first published in October 2022, which currently recommends 77 venues, ranging from sushi bars and steakhouses to an organic vegetarian option.
Looking for a rooftop pool promising five-star BC views? Look no further
With a super-central location in Canada Place and magisterial views of the harbour and mountains beyond, Pan Pacific Vancouver (panpacific.com) is both a luxury sanctuary and an ideal base from which to explore. A vast atrium welcomes guests into a pampering five-star residence offering 503 rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows and restful interiors. One highlight is the heated outdoor pool on the roof, along with the recently renovated patio deck of the Oceans 999 restaurant, which has a jazz buffet every Saturday evening. Treatments in the tranquil Spa Utopia include a lavender wrap, Himalayan salt scrub and hot stone massage.
Nine of these have garnered one star, including restaurant Published on Main (publishedonmain.com) in Mount Pleasant. With an easygoing, neighbourhood vibe, it’s a place to appreciate artfully composed seasonal dishes including foraged chanterelles, side-stripe shrimp with horseradish, and Fraser Valley duck with strawberries. For many visitors to Vancouver, a further revelation is the terrific flavours of BC wines, such as the Heavy is the Head white and St Katharina Vineyard pinot noir, both from the Okanagan Valley. For a smart deal, try the three-course prix fixe lunch at the elegant Hawksworth Restaurant (hawksworthrestaurant.com) in the historic Rosewood Hotel Georgia, which is a bargain at around £22, including tax.
Vancouverites are also passionate about cocktails, which is reflected in a profusion of bars serving complex libations with please-discuss names such as Loose Lips, Honey Don’t and Toucan Dance. Ones guaranteed to elevate your evening include The Keefer Bar (thekeeferbar.com), Meo (meochinatown.com) and Prophecy (prophecybar.com), which opened in the same building as Hawksworth in May. Among its thoughtfully curated tipples is one aptly named Souvenir, crafted from premium whiskies and the rare Oaxacan chilli pasilla mixe – a fitting memento of your days in a dynamic city that you won’t forget.
Bridging generations takes just a single moment.
FOREVER YOURS
Athens finally has its groove back, says Sahar Khan, who sought out the best bars and restaurants, cultural lodestars and au fait places for a healthy dose of retail therapy in a Greek capital that is abuzz this summer
Afinancial whirlwind tore through Greece in 2009, with the country facing a debilitating debt crisis. Droves of young Greeks emigrated – prompting, in 2020, the government to take action, offering 500 expats a monthly stipend to return home in an attempt to reverse the brain drain. By then, the country had regained its economic footing. The years of hardship inspired ingenuity that led to optimistic investment in Greece, and especially in the capital, Athens.
The infusion of energy stimulated an explosion of creative endeavours that highlighted a re-emergence of national pride. Funding poured in. Innovative startups proliferated. The Stavros Niarchos Foundation, the philanthropic arm of the billionaire Niarchos family, donated a cultural centre to the city in 2017. Designed by Renzo Piano, the ambitious complex houses the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera. Then, in 2023, ground broke on the Ellinikon Project, an
$8 billion venture set to comprehensively transform Athens’ old airport into a modern-day city by the sea.
Luckily, many young Greeks did move back after years spent abroad, enticed by the new scope of possibilities. Gritty neighbourhoods evolved – and are still evolving – into destinations in themselves, boasting buzzy restaurants and art galleries. One-off boutiques returned “Made in Greece” to handmade crafts versus factory-produced souvenirs.
This Greek revival is flush with fusion. Restaurateurs are updating the Greek taverna – arguably a concept difficult to improve upon – by borrowing international ideas. Fashion designers are taking the vernacular simplicity of Greek design and adding modern contours. Sure, respect for Greece’s history abounds, but it’s edged with an understanding that progress comes with looking forward – an ideology the ancient Athenians no doubt would have agreed with and the city’s contemporary citizens are embracing with gusto.
GRAND DESIGNS
An enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, the Parthenon, illuminated at night, overlooks Athens’ modern-day marvels
A younger cohort of restaurateurs and chefs have bet big on modern interpretations of the age-old Greek taverna. Case in point? Taverna ton Filon (@tavernatonfilon), which debuted last year – a light-filled eatery with a rustic courtyard strung with fairy lights. Chef Yiannis Mousios sources ingredients from local street markets and farms farther afield in Evia and Crete. His cooking is frills-free yet utterly flavourful: think charred mushrooms and sea bream served over steaming pilaf. Voted one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Linou Soumpasis & Sia (@lsandsia) bills itself as a contemporary taverna serving organic Greek cuisine with a twist. The likes of a Greek salad with brie instead of feta, and succulent oysters grilled over charcoal, still snug in their shells, are served in a glass-fronted room with smart metal furniture or on a garden terrace under the shade of lemon trees.
Another entrant on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list is CTC Urban Gastronomy (ctc-restaurant.com) in Keramikos.
Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis, an Athens native, helms 11-course “culinary voyages” that apply his training in French cookery techniques to Greek cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Expect refined dishes such as marinated mackerel and mustard ice cream, and a pea soup flavoured with citrus fruits and Belgian framboise.
The newly opened Pharaoh (pharaoh.gr), in up-andcoming Vaathi, encapsulates wood-fire cooking’s popularity in Athens. Each night, a cool set crowds the cavernous, cementand-steel space, which is characterised by an eclectic collection of vinyl records curated by local DJs and stored above the bar. Pharaoh is the brainchild of a travel journalist, a singer, a wine distributor and a chef, all of whom prize the authentic form of Greek cooking as traditionally prepared in villages and homes throughout the country. Menu highlights include gamopilafo, a lamb pilaf traditionally served at weddings in Crete, which takes several hours to prepare. In the large open kitchen at Akra (@akra), which came onto the scene in late 2022 in trendy Pangrati, diners can watch their orders being smoked and charred on a massive woodfired grill. Chef Yiannis Loukakis and pastry chef Spyros Pediaditakis, previously of two-Michelin-starred Spondi, pursue flavourful simplicity: think goat milk-and-egg pasta topped with seared lamb, and raw shrimp and sea urchin drenched in early-harvest olive oil and fresh lemon juice.
International cuisine, too, has become increasingly more mainstream. In 2020, Feyrouz (feyrouz.gr) debuted Levantine street food in central Athens. It is helmed by the namesake
“Menu highlights include gamopilafo , a lamb pilaf served at weddings in Crete”
matron of a Lebanese family from Antalya, Turkey, whose specialities include lahmacun, a delicate hand-rolled dough lined with minced beef, baba ghanoush and pomegranate molasses, and boat-shaped vegetarian pies called peinirli stuffed with Syrian soft cheeses, Florina peppers, aubergine and chickpeas. At Nolan (@nolanrestaurant), Greek-Japanese chef and MasterChef judge Sotiris Kontizas turns to his roots to concoct fermented and marinated dishes such as soba noodles with smoked salmon, tahini and crispy spring onions, and a comforting, panko-crusted cod burger in a bao bun. Despite the slew of buzzed-about new eateries, gastronomic stalwarts still hold court on the culinary scene. This year, Greece’s first female celebrity chef, Argiro Barbarigou, celebrates the 60th anniversary of Papadakis (papadakisrestaurant.com), a family joint inspired by her native Paros. President Barack Obama and Jean Paul Gaultier have both feasted on her hearty cuisine with a focus on
seafood. At Ama Lachei (@amalaxeinef), a well-established former school-turned-restaurant, Mediterranean classics are enjoyed in a flower-strewn courtyard.
Wine culture in Athens has experienced a resurgence alongside an appreciation for homegrown wines. Oinoscent (oinoscent.gr), which claims to have been the first wine bar in Athens, remains excellent – and busy – and Heteroclito (heteroclito.gr) still leads the charge in pet-nats. But several new bars have upped the competition. Situated on an intimate side street in Plaka, Wine is Fine (wineisfine.gr) is another chic spot specialising in natural and low-intervention wines. French restaurateurs Rafael Wallon-Brownstone and Thomas Brengou select labels from Greece and France, which Greek chef Stavros Chrysafidis pairs with small bites such as mussels and sourdough drenched in a ’nduja sauce and topped with homemade crisps. Newly opened Epta Martyres (@eptamartyres.athens) is an elegant and friendly spot in vibrant Neos Kosmos. The wines are also sourced from Greece and France, and chef Serafeim Athanasiou, who hails from Volos, borrows from the port city’s gastronomic traditions in crafting moreish mezze bites such as charred cabbage and cuttlefish with greens.
The female founders of Kora Bakery (korabakery.com) in Kolonaki mix scientific innovation with baking. Maria Alafouzou and Ianthi Michalaki met when they moved back from London and Copenhagen, respectively. After a futile search for proper sourdough bread, they decided to launch their own bakery, where loyal customers line up early to grab crispy sesame biscuits, laganas, chocolate and vanilla marble loaves and spiced hot cross buns.
Like many others, entrepreneur Maria Lemos noticed Athens’ creative influx a few years ago. The London-based Greek native opened an Athens outpost of her Marylebone store Mouki Mou (moukimou.com) that specialises in clothing, jewellery and lifestyle accessories by international and Greek designers. Nestled on a narrow street in pedestrianised Plaka (make sure to enjoy a drink on the glorious rooftop terrace), the boutique’s restrained atmosphere spotlights stunners such as Herkimer diamonds hung from 18-carat gold cords by Dosa x Pippa Small and linen dresses reinterpreted for modern-day goddesses by Daniela Gregis. A minimalist luxury lifestyle brand with a devoted following since 2011, Zeus+Dione (zeusndione.com) explores the geometry and precision of Greek tailoring through lush materials.
At the by-appointment-only studio of Unsung Weavers (unsungweavers.com), one-of-a-kind handmade coats and corsets are repurposed from blankets and forgotten wedding dowries salvaged from Greek villages. The brand is beloved by Athens’ fashion crowd for its forgotten styles of embroideries that root a look in tradition but are tailored for the modern man or woman in search of the avant-garde.
In a similar vein, Greek-American PR-turned-designer Andria Mitsakos founded Anthologist (anthologist.com) in an effort to honour oft-overlooked Greek craftsmanship. Mitsakos describes the brand’s showroom as “a shoppable museum of objects that tell stories”, where every piece in
the curated collection is handmade by artisans across the country. On any given day, the shop may feature enamel cuffs, red clay vases and stylish belts with brass buckles that are usually worn with traditional costumes in the north. An avid traveller, Mitsakos often returns with handmade treasures to add to Anthologist’s collection – perhaps sandals from Egypt, or woven baskets from Mexico.
The founder of Aphilo Athens (aphiloathens.com), Harilaos Kourtinos Pallas, is rethinking heritage even closer to home. Along with displaying work at the concept store by jewellers who use upcycled materials and ceramicists who work in abstract shapes, Pallas showcases his own new brand, Kyr Lakis. The label is inspired by his grandfather’s drawings, which Pallas transfers onto clothing and soft furnishings through traditional Greek block printing. Also keeping it in the family is Olgianna Melissinos (melissinos-sandals.gr), whose grandfather opened a sandal-making workshop in Monastiraki in 1920. After he passed away, her father took up the mantle. She is the latest Melissinos to carry on the legacy, and still hand-crafts bespoke leather sandals, belts and bags based on classic designs. The daughter of a tailor, Christina Christodoulou founded unisex tailoring brand It’s a Shirt (itsashirt.gr) in 2017, and the line has found an enthusiastic clientele across Europe. In a nod to sustainability, Christodoulou only uses vintage and deadstock fabrics sourced from around Greece.
The thought of Greek jewellery often conjures images of ancient treasures being unearthed in an archeological dig. Happily, modern Greek jewellers craft pieces that are just as timeless. At Ileana Makri (ileanamakri.com), a concept store in upscale Kolonaki, fashion and homeware mingle with the designer’s line of dainty bijoux inspired by Greek flora and fauna. (The Row founders Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are fans of her work.) The glamour is palpable at the Nikos Koulis (nikoskoulis.com) flagship in Kolonaki, where the jeweller’s work, geometric in form and often gigantic in size, is showcased in a black marble, bronze-accented space. It’s the perfect backdrop for pieces that could double as armour – witness the diamond-studded choker in blackened white gold, which captures the warrior goddess spirit.
Beyond obvious tourist attractions the Parthenon and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens brims with cultural venues that spotlight modern Greek life. While we know much about
OBJECTS OF DESIRE
Left: Andria Mitsakos, the Greek-American founder of “shoppable museum” Anthologist
ART AND SOUL
Top: go on an odyssey of artistic discovery at the light-flooded Alekos Fassianos Museum
Bottom: artist Harilaos Kourtinos Pallas’ concept store Aphilo Athens
ancient Greek art and architecture, the country’s modern masterpieces are less lauded. Rectify that at the Alekos Fassianos Museum (alekosfassianos.gr). Opened in 2023, the museum presents the work of the famed Greek painter who took inspiration from abstract movement as a student in 1950s Paris, and later used influences from Byzantine art to infuse his collages and mixed media works with gold leaf and moody hues. Thirty years in the making and finally opened in 2019, the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation (goulandris.gr) houses the shipping magnate couple’s art collection. Considered one of the world’s most valuable private collections, worth an estimated $3 billion, the treasure trove includes paintings, sculptures, drawings and furniture by bighitters including Chagall, Monet, Pollock, Rodin and more. Its crown jewels include Picasso’s Woman Nude with Raised Arms and Van Gogh’s Women Picking Olives
Founded in 2002 as an offshoot of Breeder magazine, Breeder Gallery (thebreedersystem.com) is on a mission to build artistic dialogue between Athens and the world. The gallery features work from international artists who engage in anything relevant to the zeitgeist. From Ireland Wisdom’s humans presented as demigods to Lyn Liu’s painted scenes of cinematic noir, the once-abandoned 1970s ice-cream factory is a must-visit to discover artists on their way to international fame. In 2021, the hip cultural space Neon (neon.org.gr) opened in a former tobacco factory in Kolonos. Since then, it has become known for pushing intellectual boundaries with shows including its latest, The Table Between Beds, which examines habitation and sharing in the constructed world.
Cine Thisio (cine-thisio.gr), an open-air cinema that, dating from 1935, is among the oldest in the city, screens international vintage classics under the stars. Its location on a pedestrian promenade below the Acropolis means cinema lovers are treated to an illuminated Parthenon as they settle in with homemade cheese pies, organic wines and plenty of tsipouro from the on-site canteen. Athens’ outdoor cinemas are a nostalgic throwback to a city gripped by change. The National Archeological Museum (namuseum.gr) is the largest of its kind in Greece and devoted to ancient Greek art. British architect David Chipperfield is overseeing an extension of the neoclassical building that will allow the
museum to display 90% of its artefacts that are currently warehoused due to space constraints. Although the choice of a non-Greek architect and the extension have caused controversy, the museum and its future mirrors that of Athens, where old mixed with new encourages ongoing evolution while keeping the past steadfastly in its sights.
Located just a 10-minute walk from the Kolonaki shopping district and 15 minutes on foot from the city’s major museums, the Divani Caravel Hotel (divanicaravelhotel.com) represents a stylish reprieve from the capital’s hustle and bustle. Guests are given a sumptuous reception via high ceilings and marble floors in the lobby. The 471 rooms and suites are clean-lined, with wood panels and pops of moss green and umber. Olive oil-based toiletries by Greek company Olivia add a local touch, and views over the Acropolis, Mount Hymettus and the sea lays the city at your feet. The delightfully decadent Juju Bar & Restaurant has an international menu, while its sister eatery on the rooftop sits next to an Olympic-sized pool and provides 360-degree views of Athens.
The Divani Palace Acropolis (divaniacropolishotel.com) is another Divani Collection five-star property nestled in the heart of the city. The hotel is built on the ancient city walls a short walk from the Acropolis. The 252 rooms, which are arranged across two buildings, sport blonde parquet floors, textured throws and cushions in crimson and silver and opulent marble bathrooms, while a further 70 openplan suites in a monochrome palette boast walk-in closets, dressing tables and small balconies. The rooftop bar and restaurant, Acropolis Secret, is an ideal spot for a postsightseeing nightcap with twinkling Parthenon views.
NECTAR OF THE GODS
Toast good times in Athens at Acropolis Secret, the sublime rooftop bar at Divani Palace Acropolis
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With its upgraded DBX707, Aston Martin makes high-powered multitasking look easy – even on the most challenging of terrain. Adam Hay-Nicholls puts it through its paces
In the most recent 007 outing, No Time to Die, James Bond drives a 1990s Toyota Land Cruiser Prado, which sits in stark contrast to the classic Aston Martin DB5 and V8 Vantage he’s said to have in his garage, and whatever latest Marek Reichmandesigned supercar Q Branch has supplied as his company wheels. Despite its age, and mere £7,000 value, the hardy Toyota managed to destroy an army of chasing Range Rover Sport SVRs and Land Rover Defenders (maybe not the best advert for JLR). Thing is, if he’d stuck with Aston Martin, he could have had an off-roader that would simply outrun them all and leave Norway in his mirrors.
Outwardly, the 2024 facelift of the DBX you see here looks little different to when the model first roared onto the super-SUV scene in 2020 (alas, after NTTD’s filming had wrapped). The main changes are on the inside. The previous interior just wasn’t special enough. Nor was it ergonomically brilliant. It was bland and messy. Now, it has an interior that befits a £208,500 high-sided grand tourer with, one suspects, inspiration drawn from Bentley’s nearperfect Continental GT. The DBX’s new interior is almost identical to that of the DB12, which debuted last year, but has been redesigned ever so slightly to account for the higher seating position. It also has a much improved Astonengineered infotainment system. Finally, the touchscreen has arrived, the old Mercedes tech has been chucked out, and everything works seamlessly.
The other notable thing about the DBX is that it is now only available in DBX707 form. The customers have
“On the road, it feels like a proper Aston Martin. Off-road, it feels like a steroidal Range Rover”
FRESH-FACED
The all-new DBX interior sports a smart infotainment system and touchscreen, while the exterior retains all of its original zest
spoken: 542bhp wasn’t enough – they’ve demanded the 697bhp (or 707ps in new money) upgrade as standard. The 707 uses different turbos with additional cooling to create that power. Only the less practical and more expensive Ferrari Purosangue boasts more horses (18 more, to be precise). And the DBX’s chassis is so good, it could likely take plenty more.
The looks remain divisive and quite spec-dependent, but time is treating it kindly. We no longer complain about supercar marques embracing big, heavy pseudo-family cars – or see an oversized Kia Sportage when we look at the DBX. It’s a crowded market – the Rolls-Royce Cullinan and Bentley Bentayga, with their focus on comfort and craftsmanship, and the Purosangue, Lamborghini Urus, Porsche Cayenne Turbo and Lotus Eletre, with their focus on performance. The Aston Martin is the best all-rounder.
It’s unlikely that you’ve seen any of them up a mountain and splattered in mud, though. Well, Ultratravel recently joined the very first media drive Aston has arranged across rough terrain – a challenging course of steep, rugged hills, mud, rocks and high water wading up at Scotland’s Gleneagles – and the new DBX707 excelled.
Whatever the surface, this car is a hoot to drive. The V8 exhaust note is naughty; the acceleration wild (0-60mph in just 3.1 seconds). On the road, it feels like a proper Aston Martin. Off-road, it feels like a steroidal Range Rover.
Mission accomplished, then. No other car – not any of the ones mentioned – can drag itself up a rock face with a school trunk in the boot and then accelerate to 193mph with such dignity. Truly, the new DBX707 is a Bond car for all seasons. (astonmartin.com)