Ultratravel Magazine spring 2022 by Ultratravel

SPRING 2022

THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

P A R A D I S E M A L D I V E S C U R A T E D

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H E A LT H M AT T E R S EASTERN PROMISE ON THE ROAD GOOD TIMING

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A FAMILY STORY

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THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

INSIDE THIS ISSUE 11 • Editor’s Letter

22 • Case Study

30 • Home at Sea

The big comeback

What the post-pandemic future has in store for the travel industry. By Ian Franklin

It’s nirvana for a select few – but the world of residential ships is growing. By Gary Buchanan

13 • Hotel Confidential

25 • Cabin Craft

35 • To Good Health

New and upcoming exemplars of luxe from Global Hotel Alliance. By Rob Crossan

Cosying up in premium trappings for the long haul. By F H Darafashian

Highly personalised preventative medical services crafted by top doctors are the future of wellness. By Jen Murphy

18 • On Our Radar…

27 • Good Timing

42 • Teeing off in the Loire

A compilation of Ultratravel must-haves, must-dos and must-sees.

Contrarian timepieces to have and to hold. By Chris Hall

Attractions Old and New at Les Bordes. By Farhad Heydari

46 • Bangkok Bliss

54 • Coupé d’État

The resurgent Thai capital offers something seductive for everyone. By Gavin Nazareth

Mercedes’ all-new SL looks back to its roots as a serious sports car. By Will Hersey

SPRING 2022

PHOTO: MRS SUSAN SMITH, COPYRIGHT MERCEDES-BENZ GROUP, LES BORDES

C OV E R P H OTO : O U T R I G G E R M A L D I V E S M A A F U S H I VA R U R E S O R T

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Farhad Heydari Farhad@ultratravel.com

CHAIRMAN Nick Perry Nick@ultratravel.com

@MrFarhadHeydari

@MrNickPerry

SENIOR EDITOR Vicki Reeve

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Andrew Cowan

CONTRIBUTORS Gary Buchanan, Rob Crossan, F H Darafashian, Ian Franklin, Chris Hall, Will Hersey, Jen Murphy, Gavin Nazareth ultratravel.com

@Ultratravel

© 2022 Published by PGP Media Limited on behalf of UHC Cayman Holdings Limited, Northside House, Mount Pleasant, Barnet, Hertfordshire, EN4 9EE, England, UK. All rights reserved. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions nor for any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork submitted. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or UHC Cayman Holdings Limited. Ultratravel is a registered trademark.

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

EDITOR'S LETTER

BEAU THAI

PHOTO: ANDREAS-BRUCKER

Bustling Bangkok is firmly back on the traveller’s agenda

The Big Comeback

Farhad Heydari EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ultratravel

SPRING 2022

If you hadn’t noticed, travel is back. And in a big way. With the exception of a few localities, where stringent entry and exit protocols still exist, the world is embracing the very idea of travel once again. And we’re also welcoming the notion of getting together once more. For all the talk of a transformed post-pandemic paradigm, which was going to see a wholesale shift in the way we live, conurbations and capitals are once again abuzz. And rightly so. For as much as we love to venture off-piste and embrace nature, we also want to coalesce in restaurants and bars, theatres and concert venues in order to benefit from the cauldrons of creativity (be they cultural, gastronomic or academic) that the best cities are. And so, in this issue of Ultratravel, we visit one of my favourites, Bangkok, to see

and hear all that’s new and topical – of which there is no shortage. To help you get there, we shortlist a quartet of airlines that haven’t been resting on their laurels, using downtime during the pandemic to re-envisage their premium cabins with aplomb. There is much more in this issue that warrants mention – just scroll through, dear reader, and you’ll discover other features that are close to my (and, I hope, your) heart, including those on sailing, motoring, horology, golfing and health. In the Ultratravel issues that follow, we will send love letters to destinations (think Japan and New Zealand, to name just two) that we’ve missed while their borders have been largely closed to foreign visitors. And we hope that – like the best of missives – we can deliver these in person and by hand one day very soon.

For all the talk of a transformed postpandemic paradigm, which was going to see a shift in the way we live, conurbations are once again abuzz

U LT R A T R A V E L

WHEN THEY ASK WHERE YOU’RE FROM. THE WORLD Each day aboard The World, you awaken in the most remarkable home you will ever own. As one of the few international adventurers who live this incomparable lifestyle, you explore each continent and sail every sea surrounded by unrivaled anticipatory luxury service on the planet’s largest private residential yacht.

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A WORLD FIRST

On its own island, Anantara World Islands Dubai Resort is the first luxury resort at the extraordinary development, and just 4km into the Persian Gulf

HOTEL CONFIDEN TIA L This quartet of just-opened and newly flagged haute properties demonstrates GHA’s strength in spades. By Rob Crossan

PHOTO: ANANTARA WORLD ISLANDS

ometimes – just when you think you’ve reached what looks to be the apex of discreet and sybaritic comfort – it’s worth taking a peek out of the corner of your eye. Arriving via speedboat at Dubai’s World Islands development already feels like alighting at a new dimension, where tropical birds flutter, white sand seems to massage your toes, and the forest of sky scrapers in the mainland beyond shimmers in the twinkling Gulf heat.

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

TOWERING ACHIEVEMENT

TAKING FLIGHT

Electric foilboarding at Anantara World Islands Dubai Resort

ut, if you’re willing to take just one more short, sleek speedboat ride from here to the South American continent of World Islands, you’ll be checking into somewhere entirely unique. For this is the location of the brand-new Anantara World Islands Dubai Resort (anantara.com): a boutique hostelry, where just 70 individually designed villas, suites and cabanas provide the ultimate escape from Dubai city life. With an entirely plastic-free policy, huge thatched roofs, tropical gardens, wooden swings, three main restaurants, an immense spa and fitness retreat and an undulat ing pool, the resort feels like a pristine village located somewhere in a dreamy confluence between Bali, Zanzibar, the Amazon and the Gulf. As the very first entity to open on World Islands, this is an entirely unique retreat that is as enchanting as it is utterly original. The raft of new and upcoming GHA properties evolves well beyond the UAE, however. Over in the Maldives, tropical specialist Outrigger has debuted its latest retreat, Outrigger Maldives Maafushivaru Resort (outrigger.com), on a private island in the South Ari Atoll, a 25-minute sea-plane journey from Malé. With just 81 luxury villas and overwater bungalows, all with dazzling views over the famed turquoise Maldivian waters, and no fewer than four dining venues, this newbie is an eco-conscious outpost that benefits from Outrigger’s decades of experience in maintaining fragile environments while still providing exquisite luxury (Outrigger is fast approaching its 75th anniversary). As such, the vanilla sands and locally sourced cuisine are enhanced with a resident marine biologist to take guests out to spot the local manta ray population and to see the work of the Outrigger ZONE (OZONE) project’s ongoing successes with coral restoration in the region. Meanwhile in Milan, the sixth hotel in the Lungarno Collection (lungarnocollection.com), which already has distinguished properties in Florence and Rome, is poised to become its magnum opus. When Portrait Milano opens later this year, it will be a game changer for the city as guests will be immersed in a unique piece of city architecture: the former Archiepiscopal Seminary at 11, Corso Venezia. Opened in 1620, the majestic

SPRING 2022

PHOTO: ANANTARA WORLD ISLANDS

PHOTO: ALEXANDER MAISTERN

The 250-room David Kempinski hotel is housed in a new beachfront skyscraper in the centre of Tel Aviv Promenade

When Portrait Milano opens, it will be a game changer as guests will be immersed in a unique piece of city architecture MILAN IN THE FRAME

The Ferragamo family’s hotel group makes its debut in Milan with Portrait Milano later this year

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THE ARCHIPELAGO OF ARTISTRY

JETTY SET

Chic living (below and bottom) at Patina Maldives in the far-flung Fari Islands

PHOTO: GEORG ROSKE

A picture of symmetry: overwater villas at Outrigger Maldives Maafushivaru Resor

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

‘Perpetuity’ is often the word we wish we could type into our booking form when it comes to planning the duration of a dream hotel stay. But notions of eternity and infinity are given free-flowing expression – in an artistic sense, at least – at the glorious Patina Maldives (patinahotels.com) on the far-flung, discreet and demure Fari Islands. The captivating work of New York-based artist Daniel Arsham will be on show at the Art Atelier on the island until 8 June this year. Having previously collaborated with Pharrell Williams and Tiffany & Co, Arsham’s beguiling pieces reflect themes of the impact of time on human environments, eroded architecture and relics, and landscapes where nature overrides structure. As the first artist whose works are ‘in residence’ at Patina Maldives,

building has an incredible Baroque entrance and piazza, framed by a doublecolonnaded loggia. A Doric- and Ionic-inspired triumph of Milan’s artistic endeavours, it is one of the reasons that Taine, in his Voyage en Italie (1786), called Milan the “city of columns”. Restored by former Olivetti designer Michele De Lucchi, the building will also host restaurants, a shopping arcade and have plenty of space for events, making it a major lifestyle hub right in the heart of Milan’s fashion district. Before that, though, you should head across the Mediterranean to another hive of hubbub, Tel Aviv, where The David Kempinski (kempinski.com) opened its doors in April this year. Housed in one of the newest skyscrapers lining the buttery sands of the city’s long and sun-soaked boardwalk or ‘tayelet’, it boasts 250 rooms and suites, some with six-metre floor-to-ceiling windows with views directly out onto the Med, where guests can paddleboard, surf or take an on-the-beach yoga class. Those same warm waters are the source of the numerous catch-of-the-day specialities of local piscine pleasures at the hotel’s Sereia Restaurant, while the rooftop private pool and OKOA Spa combine to create an oasis of cool in one of the Middle East’s most exciting, hedonistic and diverse cities.

Arsham’s multidimensional, thought-provoking works are adding to the resort’s burgeoning reputation as the ‘Archipelago of Artistry’ where creativity, escapism and thought seamlessly blend amid a backdrop of cerulean skies and unabashed luxury in this secluded corner of the Indian Ocean.

For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download the GHA DISCOVERY mobile app.

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

SOURCE BOOK

On our radar…

A tip sheet of must-haves – the latest launches, debuts and news, as compiled by Ultratravel editors

Ahead of the Pack With one-touch expansion, proprietary shock-absorbing wheels for smooth 360° manoeuvrability, and a space-saving outside handle that means wrinkle-free packing, the new Baseline Collection from US travelware brand Briggs & Riley is a must-have. (briggs-riley.com)

Racing Form The second concept car from Swedish EV newcomer Polestar features the requisite aluminium platform for quality and rigidity but in a new hard-top convertible known as the O2 that redefines sports roadsters for the electric age. (polestar.com)

S E T T IN G S A IL Swing Time Already popular with amateurs, TAG Heuer’s latest model of its connected golf watch is sure to be an even more indispensable on-course ally. Dubbed the Calibre E4 - Golf Edition, it automatically provides a myriad shot-tracking options and a mapping interface for more than 40,000 golf courses around the world. It also boasts an exclusive dimpled green watch face. But the best feature, hands down, is the redesigned buckle, which houses a built-in magnetic ball marker. (tagheuer.com)

SPRING 2022

A pair of new vessels hits the high seas

With a new spa concept and its lauded culinary programme, S.A.L.T. (an acronym for Sea and Land Taste), which delivers food and wine experiences rooted in the terroir of the ship’s destination, the just-christened 596-passenger Silver Dawn is another luxury exemplar from Silversea (silversea.com). Equally eye-catching is Celebrity Cruises’ brand-new oeuvre, Beyond, with its genre-altering features such as modern two-storey villas with private plunge pools, staterooms with infinite balconies, not to mention a first-ever Daniel Boulud fine-dining restaurant at sea. (celebritycruises.com)

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HE AV EN S C EN T A quartet of outstanding olfactory products

Season of Love

The Peripatetic Gourmet Tom Kerridge, whose eponymous restaurant graces London’s Corinthia hotel, has for the first time launched the ultimate gastronomic getaway for food lovers. Gourmands stay at his two-Michelin-starred Hand & Flowers in Marlow, England, for a pair of nights, enjoying a meal there before dining at his other gastropub, The Coach (one Michelin star). There’s also a voucher to spend at his Butcher’s Tap & Grill. (tomkerridge.com)

For Acqua di Parma’s latest collaboration, with fashion house forte_forte, the Italian perfume house evokes the magic of spring. (acquadiparma.com)

Signature Stones Inspired by a sense of immutable wanderlust, Boodles’ newest wearable collection, ‘Beach’, includes a necklace set with brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, plus the sixth-generation family firm’s first-ever glittering anklet in 18-carat rose gold. (boodles.com)

Breezy Does it More than five years in the making, the House of Creed has unveiled Wind Flowers, a decidedly fresh and floral feminine fragrance. (creedfragrances.co.uk)

Grab Bags Au Départ, the Parisian manufacturer of madeto-measure hard-sided cases dating back to 1834, has launched its newest collection. ‘Red’ is awash in the brand’s historical monogram, which has been reinvented onto a vermilion coated-cotton canvas, enhanced with cognac leather details. (audepart.com)

Everyday Sunshine As its name implies, Lalique’s new Soleil Vibrant has aromas as delicious as sun-kissed skin, perfect for a day on the beach. (lalique.com)

Bottled Brio Fabled for its formalwear, Brioni has created Eau de Parfum Éclat, a masculine scent that complements fresh, bright notes with the Italian mantra of gioia di vivere. (brioni.com)

Wheels of Change What happens when heritage leather atelier Poltrona Frau partners up with the king of racing-inspired motorcycles, Ducati? You get the XDiavel Nera: a limited-edition numbered series of 500 bikes characterised by an elegant ‘Black on Black’ livery and by a special customisable saddle. (ducati.com)

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

Australia • Bangladesh • Canada • China • Indonesia • Japan • Malaysia • Myanmar • Singapore • Thailand • United Kingdom • United States • Vietnam

A luxuriant haven in the city where you set your own pace 80 HOUNDSDITCH, LONDON, EC3A 7AB PANPACIFICLONDON.COM

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SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

THE AGENDA

Case Study The post-pandemic paradigm is an ever-shifting one – including for the travel industry. Ian Franklin explores the latest forecasts and trends for 2022 and beyond

ILLUSTRATION: FREEPIKS, ANDY COWAN

hey have been unloved and unused – gathering dust in attics, basements and storage rooms for the better part of 24 months. Our trusty carryon and in-hold luggage, our beloved tote bags and rolling spinners once handily accompanied us from hub to hub, destination to destination. And while 2022 is already proving to be the great reawakening (even a rebirth) for travel, as we all start to clock up air miles once again, will the ‘post-Covid’ travel landscape be a case of business as usual – a return to the heady days of 2019? Not according to the CEOs of the properties that make up Global Hotel Alliance (GHA). The chief strategists and innovators behind some of the world’s finest and most luxurious hotel stays are predicting substantial changes in how we travel over the coming summer – and far beyond. Many of the anticipated changes are about addressing ease of passage and good health through the embrace of tech. A whopping 68 per cent of the CEOs who were asked about the near future of travel are intending to introduce completely keyless hotel-room entry for guests in 2022, making the plastic key card a (thankfully) borderline extinct species.

of 2019 levels. Top of the list for urban breaks are Dubai and London, which are due to see a serious return in footfall from travellers. Unsurprisingly, the desire for sunshine and ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences plays a part too. Luxury travel planning company Indagare also places London high on its list of must-visit cities in a survey of 1,181 of its affluent regular travellers, but it’s joined by California and Florida as destinations which its members have already booked to visit in 2022. Most importantly, there is a renewed sense of optimism among affluent travellers and an increased desire not to cancel a trip unless it becomes impossible due to Covid-related restrictions. The Indagare survey found luxury travellers to be “cautiously optimistic” about travel freedoms returning to something approaching preCovid levels, while “excited”, “ready” and “hopeful” were all adjectives that suggested a new boom time for travel is already upon us. And that boom is being backed up with bucks. The CEOs of GHA have already noticed longer-stay bookings to be on the rise, with a survey by AmEx claiming that more than a quarter of British holidaymakers are planning on

But before you even reach your hotel, the choice for where you enjoy your superior slumbers could be altered by the use of VR tours of properties: 50 per cent of the same CEOs are looking at making a VR experience a core part of the pre-booking experience, an initiative that is backed up by research by CatchOn. “Tech’s reimagination of business travel will shape its recovery,” it forecasts, saying, “The metaverse is set to break boundaries and facilitate more open communication in the digital space, while hologram technology can elevate virtual presence, presentation, and interaction anytime, anywhere.” Away from the metaverse and back towards Planet Earth, the major prediction of the GHA leaders is that city breaks will make a serious comeback in 2022, with expectations that numbers could return to 75 per cent

spending more on their holiday than they did last year. The ‘staycation’ trend, however, looks to be with us for a while to come. The new hybrid working models and the rise in ‘work from anywhere’ trends mean that nearly half the CEOs in the GHA survey are still absolutely engaged in attracting the ‘work-from-hotel’ market in 2022. The overall picture is a world away from where we were just 12 months ago. From travel seemingly becoming a relic from the past, the scene now seems to be one of unabashed optimism. We’ll be travelling differently, we’ll (possibly) be travelling for longer and we might even travel without having to worry if our room key card is still in our back pocket. But whether we’re heading to London, Lisbon or Latin America, our suitcases are destined, finally, to see some sights beyond the bottom of our wardrobe.

SPRING 2022

There is a sense of optimism among affluent travellers… Longer-stay bookings are on the rise

U LT R A T R A V E L

BUSINESS FIRST

SLIDING DOORS

British Airways’ Club Suite has more privacy, comfort and storage than its former design

n the scheme of things, 24 months is but an insignifi cant blip in the timeline of global aviation – but it’s a blip that’s had significant impact for certain carriers, which have had to retire aircraft, pare back products and services both in the air and on the ground, reduce frequencies and consolidate their route maps. But for a bevy of airlines, the Covid-19 crisis has proved to be a moment of opportunity as they have used the downtime and have gone back to the drawing board, quite literally, to instigate new schemes that they hope will entice upper-echelon flyers back into their long-haul cabins. Even before the pandemic struck, British Airways (ba.com) had turned its thoughts to upgrading its flying experience, debuting a new Club Suite business-class cabin. With direct-aisle access, a door for greater privacy and flatbed seats in a 1-2-1 configuration coupled with 40 per cent more storage, and also including a vanity unit and mirror, WiFi and an enviable 18.5in inflight-entertainment screen, it proved a major step up from the previous iteration. Since then, a trio of other carriers have upped their game too. The most recent is Finnair (finnair.com), whose new Business Class product has an inviting hygge-inspired lounge feel to it, with curved corners, rounded sectionals and bevelled Zen-like edges in a tranquil cobalt hue with faux-wooden accents. And while the flat-bed seat has no door, it feels entirely private and decidedly cosy, with plenty of space for storage (including a large vertical space big enough for a laptop) and personal effects. Space is arguably the last concern for passengers travelling on Singapore Airlines’ (singaporeair.com) epic new A380 First Class Suites. There are just six commodious cabins, measuring c50sq ft/4.6sq m, and each berth is accessorised with a reclining leather armchair, lavish single bed and a 32in HD touchscreen TV. Best of all, passengers travelling together can join their suites to create one large living quarter on the revamped double-decker superjumbo jet. For its part, Etihad Airways (etihad.com) – which boasts its very own over-the-top Airbus A380 aircraft featuring an extravagant standalone three-room premium cabin called The Residence (currently grounded) – has opted to focus its newest investment mid-cabin. Its revamped business class consists of 44 forward-facing suites in warm aureated accents, anchored by a 79in/2m bed and an 18.5in inflight entertainment screen, which will make travelling on the UAE flag-carrier feel very pre-pandemic. Hallelujah to that.

C A BIN CR A F T Despite the pandemic, or because of it, a handful of airlines have made significant investments in new trappings aloft. By F H Darafashian

SPATIAL AWARENESS (ABOVE) Capacious

cabins, single beds and leather seats feature in Singapore Airlines’ A380 First Class Suites THE HEIGHT OF HYGGE (RIGHT)

Finnair’s new Business Class couples cosiness with sleek design LET’S GLOW (LEFT)

Warm accents, a privacy door and flat-bed seat mark Etihad Airways’ new business class cabin

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

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ON THE PULSE

Furlan Marri’s sold-out stainless-steel Laccato Nero chronograph with mechaquartz movement

GO OD TIMING A clutch of newer, niche horological brands are adding bijou cachet to the industry. Chris Hall reports on their unique USP and on why they are making watch collectors tick

SPRING 2022

U LT R A T R A V E L

ON THE PULSE

emember that restaurant you discovered? You know, out in London’s Bethnal Green or the outer stretches of Brooklyn, back when the wave of gentrification was barely a ripple, and watching your food cooked before your eyes felt brave and exciting? Or that band you saw demoing from the back of a pickup truck to a crowd of ooh, at least 15? Well, they’ve just played three nights at Madison Square Garden and soundtracked a Samsung ad. The restaurant’s moved to Soho and brought out a cookbook. Your favourite designer just launched a collab with Ikea, and the niche podcast you latched onto in lockdown has a sevenfigure deal with Spotify. It’s a problem in the watch world too. The past 10 years have seen such an influx of interest that what was once the domain of committed collectors is now hungrily consumed by casual newcomers. In response, a new generation of brands has sprung up to meet collectors’ needs, with the recognition that there is one currency more valuable than euros, dollars or pounds – and that’s the sense of being in the inner circle. Occasionally called ‘micro-brands’ due to their lowproduction volumes – a term most of them disavow – these companies vary in approach but have one thing in common: so far, your average Mayfair window-shopper has never heard of them. So if you want to mark yourself out as belonging to the horological cognoscenti, these are the names to know. Scoring the latest ‘drop’ isn’t easy, but it’s all about being in the right place at the right time; the sums involved aren’t necessarily huge. Indeed, the entire point is often to offer something that apes the aesthetic of connoisseur-level vintage pieces without pretending to be anything other than a bit of fun – something to divert between auction seasons. One such is Furlan Marri (furlanmarri.com), whose look takes inspiration from classic 1930s Patek Philippe, Longines or Vacheron Constantin chronographs, but whose watches are powered by ‘mechaquartz’ movements that so-called proper watch nuts would normally disdain on principle. Crucial to understanding its success is the price: £450 for the recently released (and immediately sold-out) Mare Blu ref 1051-A. It’s Tissot money, but produced in limited numbers more befitting a watch 10 times the price, with looks to match. I

branding of Squale’s logo or Baltic’s hard-to-beat emphasis on value. Are they quantifiably better than a Seiko, a TAG Heuer or a Longines? It doesn’t remotely matter: everyone’s got a Seiko, but a Baltic Aquascaphe? In watch circles, that’s a conversation-starter. Being able to offer premium looks for a relative per centage is a smart trick, but comes with a few conditions attached. You won’t find much ‘Swiss Made’ branding here, especially among the newer arrivals, but that’s not going to deter an audience of hardcore collectors, who recognise it as just another marketing device, open to manipulation. This buyer would rather jostle for the chance to buy a Kurono Tokyo (kuronotokyo.com) chronograph (powered

1 anOrdain Model 1 Blue Fumé with enamel dial 2 Massena LAB Uni-Racer Rally in stainless steel

3 Unimatic U1S-MPN diving watch in DLC 4 Aera D-1 Diver in stainless steel with ceramic bezel

know one collector who bought five without batting an eyelid. Also tapping into the recent hunger for vintage chronographs is Massena LAB (massenalab.com), the New York brand founded by former retailer, auction-house exec

and forum stalwart William Massena; having collaborated with several established brands on limited-edition designs, he then unveiled his own run of Uni-Racer chronographs that openly nods to Universal Geneve’s beloved Uni-Compax pieces of the 1960s, billing it as a demonstration of how the vintage designs might have evolved had they existed in a different time. Often, the vintage inspiration is present but more generic: Baltic (baltic-watches.com); Aera (aera.co); Unimatic (unimaticwatches.com) and Squale (squale.ch) are just four of many brands tipping their hats to classic dive-watch design tropes. Each brings something of its own to the table, however, be it the functional ultra-simplicity of Aera’s D1-Diver, the cartoonish hipster appeal of Unimatic’s dials (think Hiroshi Fujiwara meets Panerai), the Italian flair and surf-shop

SPRING 2022

by an unremarkable Seiko movement) than pick up a similarly priced piece from the watchmaking motherland. That’s because Kurono is the brainchild of the acclaimed independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, whose Asaokabranded creations run into more traditionally priced territory. It’s a strategy that was deployed some years previously by Finland’s Stepan Sarpaneva, with his SUF subbrand, but Kurono’s arrival came along at exactly the right time – part of a critical mass of pan-Asian watchmaking that, together with the likes of Naoya Hida (naoyahidawatch. com) and Ming Watches (ming.watch), makes a compelling case that, right now, the most dynamic horological stories come from Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Singapore rather than Le Locle, Zurich and Geneva. Both Naoya Hida and Ming offer something mechanically superior to others in this loose list, and that’s reflected in their five-figure price tags. Hida specialises in hand-wound movements and evocations of classical European design – for example, the Type 3A, with its hand-engraved Roman numerals and gold moon-phase display. Ming, meanwhile, proudly combines Swiss movements (made by low-volume specialist Schwarz Etienne) with a firmly contemporary and original visual style, typified by its use of stencilled dial furniture,

U LT R A T R A V E L

ON THE PULSE

5 1.

Everyone’s got a Seiko, but a Baltic Aquascaphe is a conversation-starter shaded or translucent dial finishes, thick scal loped lugs and no visible logo. With the honourable exception of Ming, players in this scene tend to recognise that the watch movement isn’t what draws in a crowd (and so another industry orthodoxy is overturned). That’s not to say there can’t be genuine handcraft on display, however. Take Scottish start-up anOrdain (anordain.com), which has made a name for itself producing sumptuous enamelled dials, rich in colour and glossy of finish, easily the equal of those commanding substantially higher prices from Swiss legacy brands (and many would say, possessing of somewhat greater life and character to boot). Indeed, a certain levity and selfawareness is a winning approach. Perhaps none exemplifies this better than New York brand Brew Watches (brew-watches. com), potentially the only watch brand with caffeine as its foundation. Inspired by baristas timing their pour, founder Jonathan Ferrer has created a brand whose watches are both whimsical (8-bit depictions of coffee cups, anyone?) and inventive – the Metric has just the right amount of nostalgic flourishes to lure watch junkies, but can take pride in bringing something fresh to chronograph-watch design, an extremely hard landscape in which to stand out. At just $395, it has quite understandably sold out, but there’s no old-world gamesmanship at work – when the next model drops, if you’re quick on the draw, access to this new generation of cult brands is open to all.

5 KURONO Chronograph II White ‘Shiro’ in stainless steel by Hajime Asaoka

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6 Brew Watches Metric chronograph with steel dial

7. Ming 22.01 with Kyoto (left) and Gilt (right) dials

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FOR ALL THE WORLD

Main picture: The World, a private residential yacht, at Villefranche-sur-Mer. Inset: The World Residents live in sophisticated apartments customised to their own taste

H O M E AT S E A An ever-changing view, itineraries to inveigle, a bevy of unimpeachable amenities: cruising’s next

wave is all about a place you can call your own. By Gary Buchanan

he idea of cruising around the world dates back to the 1920s, but the idea of living at sea is a relatively new one. In fact, it dates back just 20 years. That’s when the notion of sailing aboard The World (aboardtheworld. com) was first envisaged: the ultimate address aboard the largest residential ship ever created. The vision was to conceive a lodestar of privacy and grace, one from which resident explorers could savour a cavalcade of ineffable seascapes without the obligations associated

Residents acquired the ship from the holding company, and this discreet floating resort community assumed responsibility for its own destiny. By June 2006, the original inventory was sold out and since then only a handful of the 165 Residences has become available for sale. Stealth wealth and ocean roaming became cosy shipmates. With a refined vibe, the spacious Residences, all with verandas, range from not-so-bijou studios to commodious 3,242sq ft (301sq m) three-bedroom apartments, each customised to Residents’ individual tastes – needless to say,

with traditional yacht ownership. Undoubtedly, The World is a super-ship for the superrich, but even the über-wealthy like to keep a keen eye on their investment. Eighteen months after the launch, the

they feature everything from contemporary to traditional décor and exude an aura of relaxed sophistication befitting their $2-million to $15-million price range, annual ownership costs notwithstanding.

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PHOTO: THE WORLD

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Contrary to popular misconceptions, The World Residents are not Hollywood moguls, industry plutocrats or glamorous celebrities. The owners of this floating Xanadu are firstgeneration entrepreneurs, some semi-retired but still active in their businesses. Another myth is the notion that enrolment in this maritime community confers non-dom status; in truth, tax status depends on the country at which Residents are permanently domiciled. Equally false is the claim that The World is the largest ship sailing the seven seas; at a modest 43,188-tonnes, she is in stark contrast to those floating leviathans that hurry from one port to another, dropping anchor at breakfast and sailing well before cocktail hour. Residents enjoy a coup de cuisine in the four principal restaurants, plus grill and café. There’s an exceptional golf facility with onboard putting greens, state-of-the-art golf simulator and resident pro. In addition, there’s the only full-size, regulation tennis court at sea, swimming pools, a therapeutic spa and wellness centre with personal trainers, gourmet marketplace, library, cinema, boutique, cigar club and games rooms. Itineraries are determined some three years in advance by an egalitarian vote among the Residents. The roster of ports ranges from remote parts of Antarctica to the Northwest Passage, Madagascar to Melanesia. Navigating six continents and sailing every ocean, the 2023 Journey will be an exceptional voyage. Pan-global odysseys – with a focus on extended stays in port – ensure that for Residents, The World is their oyster.

Itineraries for The World are determined three years in advance by an egalitarian vote SPRING 2022

A DECKADENT LIFE

With a hoped-for delivery date in 2025, Njord – known as ‘the next generation of private superyacht’ – is to be built in Germany

THE NEXT WAVE Concepts for a variety of residential ships in recent years have either failed to get beyond the drawing board or were unable to garner the necessary funding for construction. Now the future looks bright for nautical nomads with deep pockets, thanks to perspicacity from the most elite superyacht designers.

HIGH BERTH

A rendering of a private living room aboard Njord by renowned interior-design studio Taylor Howes

It’s surely no coincidence that a previous master of The World is the co-founder of Somnio (somniosuperyachts. com). Described as a ‘yacht liner’, this floating community of like-minded individuals will have just 39 luxury apartments. Owners can work with the creative experts at Tillberg Design of Sweden, Winch Design or Luttenberger Design to create their individual halcyons. Interiors throughout the superlative vessel will seamlessly blend indoor and outdoor living. Endorsing the exclusivity, Somnio’s condominiums are only available by invitation or referral, and the identity of each owner will remain secret. Due to be constructed at the Norwegian shipyard VARD, this 33,500 GRT vessel is set to debut in 2024. Named after the god of the seas and winds in Norse mythology, Njord (my-njord.com) has been dubbed the ‘next generation of private superyacht’. This 84,800 GRT vessel has been designed by the world-famous creator of custom motor yachts Espen Øino, along with Jean-Louis Stutzmann, chief designer architect at Ocean Residences Development. Spanning the lexicon of decadent design, the 118 Residences

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Five Minutes with… Tom Wolber

CEO of The World Q: What makes The World different? I’ve worked for several cruise ships but, apart from its outward appearance, The World is nothing like them. It is a private home for only 150 families from 20 countries and is a lifestyle of luxury travel versus a vacation. It’s the gold standard of residential ships and remains one of a kind and the only privately owned residential mega-yacht in operation today. She’s truly in a class by herself. Q: What does the post-pandemic world look like for its Residents? Our Residents were delighted to return to their home at sea in July 2021. We are fortunate in that The World’s residential concept is naturally designed to be more relevant post-pandemic. We have the same people living on the ship, including our crew, versus other ships’ more transient passengers who come and go from week to week. The World remains a very compelling option for those interested in travelling the globe in total privacy from the comfort of their home at sea. Q: It sounds dreamy – what are the USPs for owners? The World has set the benchmark for luxury residential travel at sea. Residents travel to more than 100 ports of call each year for extended stays to experience new cultures, natural wonders, incredible food and wine, enriching lecturers, and more. Our Residents enjoy being part of a community and travelling together.

ON THE LIST?

The 39 luxury apartments on the ‘yacht liner’ Somnio are only available by invitation or referral

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Q: What initiatives and exciting developments are on the horizon? This spring the ship will go into dry-dock in Cádiz, Spain, for a few weeks for a multimillion-dollar refurbishment of several public areas as part of the Residents’ ongoing investment and commitment to preserving the immaculate condition of this yacht. During this time, some Residents will use the opportunity to refurbish their homes as well. We have a very exciting journey planned later this year including the furthest reaches of the Northern Hemisphere for an Iceland Expedition. PHOTO: THE WORLD, WINCH DESIGN, OCEAN RESIDENCES

will range from two- to six-bedroom apartments. There are plenty of options for Residents to customise their apartments with premium features, such as wine cellars, cheese rooms, humidors, safe rooms, gyms, saunas and steam rooms. Njord will be equipped to undertake scientific and oceanographic research everywhere she travels. Underwater drones, together with two submersibles, will map the ocean floor using multi-beam echo sounders. This mega-yacht will dial up the trappings of exclusivity with two eight-seat, Airbus helicopters with a range of 400 nautical miles. Construction will be undertaken at the Meyer Werft shipyard in Germany with a target delivery date of 2025. Co-founded by the former CEO of The World, Fredy Dellis, Blue World Voyages (blueworldvoyages.com) claims to be the first cruise line specifically for adults who are active, athletic and health-conscious, as well as those who aspire to be. The founders planned to downsize an existing ship to accommodate 350 passengers in owner-occupied apartments that included 40 luxury one- and two-bedroom residences, along with 225 hotel suites. The launch of Blue World was delayed, and the company is currently seeking a bigger ship. An entire deck will be dedicated to sports and fitness, with a spacious gym, golf, football and hockey simulators, plus a saltwater lap pool with cabanas. There will be another deck devoted to a state-of-the-art luxury spa, yoga studio and sports-medicine clinic.

Q: And what about the competition? We know there are others eyeing this niche market and it’s a challenge that we are well prepared for. The high level of service that our crew delivers is unmatched. We describe luxury as the anticipatory service our crew provides and knowing each Resident’s preferences. Whether it’s recommending certain wines we know they will enjoy with their dinner selections to how they like their family photos arranged in their apartment to their preferred type of ground transportation, Residents need not ask; we already know and work hard to surpass their expectations when it comes to service.

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LIVING WELL SENIOR SERVICE

To Good Health

A swimming pool and vitality pool are just some of the wellbeing offerings at Auriens Chelsea, a private residence for the over-65s

From early detection of disease to utterly bespoke wellbeing plans from the foremost medics, the future of health is in fine fettle. Jen Murphy reports

ongevity has become the latest buzz word in the health world. As a result, people are taking a ‘prevention is better than cure’ approach to wellness. A handful of newly debuted luxe companies are catering to the demand with a roster of highly personalised preventative medicine services that can predict, flag and otherwise alert clients to potential ailments long before symptoms appear. Bespoke prescriptions rooted in lifestyle changes are certain to help us live longer, with more active lifestyles. Thankfully, companies such as Auriens, a luxury community for the 65-plus crowd, have reinvented the retirement home as a five-star private members’ club with every amenity and service you’d ever long for. Here’s to ageing well.

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LIVING WELL

CHECK IT OUT

PHOTO: ECHELON

At its Harley Street premises in London (below), Echelon Health clients undergo a Personal Health Assessment to see if there is anything untoward developing, unseen, inside them

PRIVATE DETECTOR

Dr Paul Jenkins, chair of Echelon Health

ECHELON HEALTH

A longtime champion of early detection, Cambridge laureate Dr Paul Jenkins is the founder of the European Scanning Centre, the UK’s leading independent diagnostic imaging company. His follow-up company, Echelon Health, takes his expertise in medical imaging technology and pairs it with his 30 years of clinical practice. A devoted following of A-list patients visits Echelon’s Harley Street offices in London to undergo rigorous health assessments that might include blood work and EOS CT skeleton scans. Results are so accurate they can flag early signs of cancers and most other diseases. The company’s most comprehensive package, the Platinum Assessment, can detect for up to 92% of the diseases that lead to premature death in men aged 55-69, and over 95% in women. echelon.health

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A devoted following of A-list patients visits Echelon’s Harley Street offices to undergo rigorous health assessments that might include blood work and EOS CT skeleton scans

MEDIX ONE

Medix Global has been disrupting the healthcare space since its launch in 2006. The company’s pioneering approach to data and tech-driven medical management has put healthcare in the hands of 7 million clients across more than 90 countries. With Covid-19 spotlighting the value of virtual care as well as our own personal health, Medix saw an opportunity to launch an even more personalised service: Medix One. This ultra-exclusive, invite-only, private members’ club provides access to the company’s 300-plus doctors and 4,500 specialists whenever and wherever you need them. Capped at just 100 members, it’s the ultimate investment in wellbeing. Members are assigned their own dedicated personal medical team who can assist with everything from long-term Covid management to emotional health. And the club’s Global Medical Concierge ensures its members have priority access to the world’s best care even in the most remote parts of the globe. medix-global.com; medix.one

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W I T H K E MPINS K I

LIVING WELL

VIAVI HEALTH STRATEGY

“Eat healthily and exercise” is the extent of most doctor’s health advice. Viavi Health Strategy gets down to the nittygritty, prescribing patients definitive, data-driven health road maps. The stylish London day clinic on Harley Street now has global reach. Viavi teams can make house calls for diagnostic testing throughout the UK and abroad, and encrypted video consultations make it possible to monitor health data remotely. The most popular assessment, Health Strategy VS1, examines more than a dozen factors including arterial stiffness, lung function, metabolic stress and spinal analysis. After reviewing results with your health coach, you’re given a one-year health-management plan. A personal health manager and support team will check in with you throughout the year to help you stay on track to achieve your wellness goals. viavi.com

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Preventicum’s Elite Assessment lasts about 6.5 hours and includes more than 50 blood tests, plus scans of the heart, brain and spine, plus injury-prevention analysis – and more

PREVENTICUM

This is the one doctor’s visit you might look forward to. Preventicum’s VIP approach to care includes free car service if you live within London’s M25, and the company’s central London clinic feels more like a five-star hotel than a sterile hospital. Upon check-in, each client is assigned a room to use as a base for the day so they can check emails between blood tests or catch a football match on TV while awaiting results. Services range from MRI scans with same-day results to allergy profiling and VO2 max testing, but the company is best known for its exhaustive preventative assessments that can flag elevated risks for strokes, heart attacks or disease. The most thorough evaluation, the Elite Assessment, lasts about 6.5 hours and includes more than 50 different blood tests, plus scans of the heart, brain and spine, plus injury-prevention analysis – and more. A team of radiologists and doctors will sit down with you to review your results. preventicum.co.uk

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LUXURY DEFINED

CO R I N T H I A .CO M

LIVING WELL

THE ART OF AGEING WELL

As well as a slew of on-site amenities, such as a hair and beauty salon (below), residents at the hotelier-run Auriens Chelsea can access the best medical care

AURIENS

A pioneering private residency in London’s Chelsea for the over-65 set has reimagined the retirement-home concept with resort-worthy amenities such as a speakeasy bar, cinema and a restaurant helmed by the former head chef of The Savoy. Run by hoteliers with résumés that include The Connaught and Claridge’s, Auriens features a collection of 56 private apartments available to lease. In addition to fantastic dining and entertainment, residents have access to the best medical experts, caregivers and fitness coaches in their respective fields. Partners include lauded in-home care provider Draycott Nursing & Care, and fitness gurus Kyros Project, whose team includes Ben Williams, head of human performance for the British America’s Cup Team. The company’s philosophy of active ageing and enrichment has been such a hit that locations in Kensington and St John’s Wood are already in the works. auriens.com

Auriens’ residents have access to the best medical experts, caregivers and fitness PHOTO: SIM CANETTY-CLARKE

coaches in their respective fields

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Teeing off in the Loire With a new golf course and ambitious plans for the coming years, Les Bordes is one of Europe’s most dynamic golf destinations. By Farhad Heydari

WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE

A sweeping bird’s-eye view of Les Bordes Old Course in the Loire Valley

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O N PA R

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O N PA R

hen it comes to naming Continental Europe’s golfing lotuslands – those vaunted, instantly recognisable courses steeped in legend and lore – most 36-a-day types can only manage but a handful. They’ll name resort courses (they’ve either played or have seen played) in Spain and Portugal, while giving France a pass altogether. What they won’t know, however, is that four of the top 10 courses in the continent’s top 100 are of a Gallic variety. Among these standouts is the Old Course at Les Bordes (lesbordes.com): a gated 1,300-acre hunting estate in the Loire Valley where, under diktat from the erstwhile owner,

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PHOTO: ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF LES BORDES

Baron Marcel Bich (of Bic Biro fame), Texas-born architect Robert von Hagge created his chef-d’oeuvre in 1986, by turning a tract on this secluded and wooded domain just 90 minutes from Paris, in what is colloquially known as the Garden of France, into a championship opus that is roundly considered in the highest echelons of the global golfing firmament – on par, in some eyes, with Augusta National. With its watery panorama of lakes, ponds and streams, which come into play in no fewer than a dozen holes, all framed by ancient oak forest, this 7,044-yard Bonsai-perfect track would be enough of a draw for most. However, the current owners of this vast estate decided that the original 18-hole course needed a sibling, and so they drafted in globally acclaimed American architect Gil Hanse, who has fashioned a stunner of a New Course, which has just debuted as his first on the continent.

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Whereas von Hagge’s work is a memorable manicured mélange of photographable peninsula and island greens delimited with sleepers and framed by shallow basin bunkers that put the emphasis on target golf, the New Course is a fast and firm transplanted tableau that recalls the heathland tracks of southern England or, in Hanse’s own words, the likes of Pine Valley, near his East Coast home. Built on a sandy foundation with large waste areas, the 7,285-yard walking-only inland links layout has subtle elevational changes with raised undulating greens with false backs which are large and sometimes unreceptive to approach shots, and menacing clusters and rows of cross-bunkering that are disconcertingly deceptive and visually arresting – all of it framed by vegetation such as broom, heather and gorse that was harvested and grown in the UK. There are plenty of risk-reward options and with the exception of one hole, the 18th, not a drop of water to challenge. Yet because the course – which has just been added to the vaunted Golf.com World 100 ranking – has been designed to be played predominantly on the ground in true links fashion, there are endless swales, humps and bumps and rollercoaster green complexes framed by fescue and deep, cavernous bunkers that provide ample defence on approaches.

double-height exposed timber A-frames overlooking the 18th green of the Old Course, with enough élan to make them time-appropriate. These additions and tweaks, however, are just the starting point for the ambitious next phase the owners have in store for the property. This includes plans to add, sensitively, a variety of residential homes to parcels set away from the courses in order to maintain their original grandeur, and to transform an on-site 19th-century château into a hostelry – part of a new village square with restaurants, shops, a farmer’s market and outdoor amphitheatre centred on the estate’s 13th-century priory. When all of these are unveiled in 2024, you can be sure Les Bordes will become instantly synonymous with greatness. After all, it already is.

A SPORTING HAVEN

From the hunting lodge-cum-clubhouse, opposite page top, to the par-3s of Wild Piglet, the 10-hole short course, opposite page bottom left, and the challenges presented by the Old and New Courses, Les Bordes is handsomely situated among its spectacular wilderness surrounds

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For something more sedate, Hanse has also designed a 10-hole short course called the Wild Piglet. Ranging in distance from 57 to 148 yards, this collection of par-3 holes is just as well presented as the other 36 holes on site that it is no wonder Golf.com immediately placed it in its top-25 par-3 courses in the world. And while golf is clearly the hero element here (did I mention there are two absolutely enormous putting greens and a world-class driving range?), it is complemented by a myriad other sporting opportunities amid the natural splendour of the ancient Sologne forest, a Unesco World Heritage Site. There are lakes for fishing; an equestrian centre for riding; a petite white-sand beach ringing a lake for swimming, as well as archery and tennis. The entire estate is anchored by a handsome clubhouse, renovated and redesigned by London-based architect Michaelis Boyd. This features a bar and lounge, a restaurant serving up regional specialities and superb wines (as one would expect), plus a private lounge and games room – including golf simulator – not to mention two atmospheric wood-burning hearths. The same designers also imbued the collection of rustic cottages, with their antique-tiled bathrooms and

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THE SMART GUIDE

B A N G KO K BLIS S Thailand’s capital is back – and yes, with a bang, says Gavin Nazareth

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enowned Australian chef David Thompson once said that Thai cooking is about “juggling disparate elements to create a harmonious finish”. He could be describing the Thai capital city. A sprawling metropolis of startling contrasts, Bangkok mirrors its cuisine, a fantastic balance of incongruent notes of sour, spicy, salty, sweet and bitter. Asia’s capital of cool is multilayered and the sum of its many parts. On one side it is friendly, welcoming, exotic, beautiful and graceful, while the flip side of this 200-year-old city – which straddles the twisty Chao Phraya River as it snakes its way down to the sea – is sweltering, chaotic, and congested, gridlocked with maddening traffic jams. Beyond that, swanky shopping malls and gleaming skyscrapers stand shoulder to shoulder with golden-spired temples. Historic neighbourhoods are rife with hip speakeasies and trendy boutiques. And foodies can go from bare-bones sidewalk eateries to whitetableclothed fine dining in a minute. At the height of the pandemic, Bangkok’s once eye-watering 40 million arrivals slowed to a trickle. Hotels and restaurants pivoted to look inwards at the domestic market. But now Thailand is ready to reclaim the top spot on every traveller’s bucket list with a raft of offerings, old and new.

CHECKING IN With over 19,000 luxury hotel rooms, visitors to Bangkok are more than

LIGHT FANTASTIC

Many of central Bangkok’s streets come alive at night

PHOTO: UNSPLASH

spoiled for choice. The newest kid on the hotel block is the Capella Bangkok (capellahotels.com). Bracketed by the Chao Phraya River and the city’s first paved road, its modernist block façade has 101 rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the stunning riverscape and a choice of spacious balconies, open-air verandas or private tropical gardens. They are sleekly dressed in leather, wood and heavy fabrics, in a muted colour palette, with designer furniture, free-standing bathtubs and walk-in rain showers. Seven riverfront villas set it apart from the competition. With access through a private courtyard, these 259sq m lavish retreats come with a separate living and dining area, a jacuzzi plunge pool, a private garden all the way to the water’s edge and an outdoor sala from which to watch the boats go by. For accommodation at the centre of the action, you can’t go wrong with Anantara Siam (anantara.com). The brand’s flagship, the stark lines of its exterior belie its sumptuous interiors – from the soaring lobby with its intricately hand-painted ceilings and silk murals to the marble floors and the sweeping staircase for that Gone with the Wind Insta moment. The 354 elegant and spacious rooms with views of the city or hotel gardens are packed with amenities. But the prize goes to the two-bedroom Explorer Suite by Jim Thompson. A nod to the legend who revived the Thai silk industry, its design reflects a Thai summer house with panelled walls and polished teak floors providing the backdrop for an eclectic compilation of antiques, artworks, furniture and vintage fabric.

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THE SMART GUIDE

The two Kempinski hotels the city boasts of sit at either ends of the spectrum. The older, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok (kempinski.com) is a tranquil bolthole for shopaholics from their forays into the frenetic shopping district in which it sits. The 397 expansive rooms and suites are wrapped around a large landscaped courtyard and multiple free-form saltwater pools. Furnished in a palette of earth and dark tones with muted purple and original artwork, all rooms have marble bathrooms and complimentary minibar. Most have spacious balconies, but the Cabana Rooms and Duplex Cabanas, which have a resort feel, have direct access to the pool. Sindhorn Kempinksi Hotel Bangkok (kempinski.com), the younger sibling, is smack in the middle of the city’s green corridor that stretches from the quiet tree-lined embassy enclave to the verdant Lumphini Park. Wellness and a connection to nature is the name of the game here. Embraced by lush tropical gardens, the building’s striking curved fascia ensures all 274 rooms and suites enjoy natural light through floor-to-ceiling windows. Rooms start at an impressive 66sq m with private balconies and double-wall soundproofing to ensure a good night’s sleep. Large prints of ornate motifs and decorative tiles from the Ratchabophit Temple, built in the 1860s, augment the natural colours. Sprawling over 4,000sq m on the ninth floor, The Sindhorn Wellness by Resense offers an integrated spa, wellness and fitness approach with 26 treatment rooms, a thermal circuit of saunas, a cold chamber, aromatic steam room, Rasul mud room and a tepidarium lounge, and even an authentic Moroccan hammam.

ABOVE: SIAM KEMPINSKI

The expansive garden and pool area is an oasis of calm despite the hotel site in Bangkok’s shopping district RIGHT: ANANTARA SIAM

Palm trees and Bird of Paradise plants surround the pool, contrasting with the buzzy location

ABOVE: CAPELLA BANGKOK

There are fabulous views across the Chao Phraya River from the hotel’s peaceful Living Room LEFT: SINDHORN KEMPINSKI

The main entrance hints at the greenery of the hotel, which is surrounded by gardens and focuses on wellness and a connection to nature

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THE SMART GUIDE

HOT TABLES From sky-high fine dining to flaming woks curbside, Bangkok has matured as a culinary destination to rival Singapore and Hong Kong, with many of the world’s top chefs setting their sights on it. The one-Michelin-star Côte by Mauro Colagreco (cotebkk.com) brings the culinary heritage of the Riviera to the River of Kings with contemporary reinterpretations of traditional recipes. The nine-course dinner-only Carte Blanche menu gives the chef full rein to do as he pleases while giving diners the luxury of ‘choosing not to choose’. On the west bank of the river in the luxury megamall IconSiam, another culinary grandmaster has made his home with Blue by Alain Ducasse (blue-alainducasse.com). Under a magnificent pleated chandelier, diners feast on executive chef Wilfrid Hocquet’s contemporary French creations such as white asparagus soufflé with salmon roe, and guinea-fowl pithivier, which have garnered the restaurant a Michelin star and a number 25 ranking on the Asia’s 50 Best list. Across the river, and 63 floors above the city, is what is billed as the world’s first vertical dining destination. The Dome at Lebua (thedomebkk.com) is home to a clutch of awardwinning fine-dining restaurants and bars, including the world’s highest alfresco restaurant, Sirocco, and the city’s original Sky Bar. Crowning it is two-Michelin-star Mezzaluna. Here, Chef Ryuki Kawasaki serves timeless European cuisine subtly infused with Japanese flavours and precision such as Sakura Masu ‘Mi-Cuit’ (cherry trout, trout roe, shiro udo and watercress) and Niigata Murakami Wagyu Beef ‘Grilled Over Charcoal’ with sansai, black garlic and tamari soy Jus. After dinner, head one floor down to Alfresco 64 – A Chivas Bar. Drawing design inspiration from the sleek lines of a luxury yacht, it literally takes whisky drinking to new heights – not only is it the world’s highest outdoor whisky bar, but connoisseurs can also savour the limited-edition Chivas Regal Lebua Blend (only 96 numbered bottles were produced). Just steps away is Aksorn (aksornbkk.com), where renowned Australian chef David Thompson mines his extensive collection of rare Thai cookbooks from the 1940s onwards. Don’t expect the usual green curry or tom yum goong – his ever-changing set menu is a fascinating culinary history lesson. From here, follow the river northwards to the Old Town and Nusara (fb.com/nusarabkk). This private 10-seater chef’s table is Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn’s homage to his grandmother and is number 10 on Asia’s 50 Best

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THE SMART GUIDE

LEFT: TUBE GALLERY

For glamorous creations with a touch of drama, this is the fashion store to visit BELOW: ICONCRAFT

Located in IconSiam, a superluxe mall, Thai craftsmanship is the name of the game here

SHOP TALK With its quirky combo of street stalls, open-air markets, colourful night markets, sleek megamalls and everything in between, Bangkok is a shop-till-you-drop destination. IconCraft (iconsiam.com/en), spread over two floors of the über-luxe mall IconSiam, is designed to give Thai craftsmen a creative platform and showcase. From stylish wicker handbags, Thai silks, and wooden furniture made by the hill tribes to handmade textiles, organic skincare, ceramics and even speciality Thai coffee, this is the place to pick up gifts and support local artisans. On the opposite riverbank, well-known architect Duangrit Bunnag took seven large World War II warehouses, restoring and transforming them into Warehouse 30 (warehouse30.com), while preserving the original warehouse vibe. A creative mixed-use space for local designers and artists, it includes a co-working space, a cinema that exclusively screens documentaries, a mix of cafés and bars, and an eclectic set of tenants selling designer fashions, jewellery, vinyl records, motorbiking accessories and more. For dramatic but wearable fashion head to Tube Gallery at the Siam Center (tube-gallery.com). Designers Saxit Pisalasupongs and Phisit Jongnarangsin, the duo behind the brand, dig deep into their theatre and dance origins for their avant-garde take on fashion. Their edgy and semicouture creations for men and women are full-on glamour and, as Saxit puts it, “anything but minimalist”. Their Resort Wear collaboration with Belgian artist Christian Develter transplanted his famous giant canvases of faces onto jackets, loungewear, shorts and silk dresses, while ‘Wall Flower’ was inspired by the intricate Thai garland translated into structural couture.

ABOVE: ALFRESCO 64

On the 64th floor of the State Tower, Bangkok, this is the highest open-air whisky bar in the world FAR LEFT: BLUE BY ALAIN DUCASSE

The Michelin-star restaurant is halfway up the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list NEAR LEFT: MINISTRY OF CRAB

Sri Lankan mud crabs take centre plate at Dharshan Munidasa’s restaurant BOTTOM FAR LEFT: JHOL

Succulent lamb shank served up at Hari Nayak’s Indian eaterie in Sukhumvit BOTTOM NEAR LEFT: NUSARA

With just 10 seats, this intimate restaurant pays homage to Chef Ton’s family recipes

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Restaurants list. Ton goes back to his roots, plating what he calls “colourful authentic Thai cuisine” with mains served Japanese kaiseki-style in a gorgeous dining room. Expect grouper sashimi cured with lime juice and fish sauce, served with young ginger, or perhaps fragrant crab curry served on crispy betel leaf, topped with horseshoe crab roe. Sukhumvit, the city’s main thoroughfare, is home to many standout eateries such as the Ministry of Crab (ministryofcrab.com/bangkok/). Sri Lankan mud crabs are the stars here, at the Sri Lankan-Japanese chef Dharshan Munidasa’s Bangkok outpost; the smallest weighs in at half a kilo, going all the way up to the 2kg ‘Crabzilla’. Signatures include the fiery Pepper Crab and the original Garlic Chilli Crab cooked in a blend of Italian olive oil, garlic, Sri Lankan chilli flakes and Japanese soy. Douse any flames with its tropical version of a classic crème brûlée baked in coconut shell. Across the main Sukhumvit road at Jhol (jholrestaurant. com) chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Hari Nayak takes diners on a culinary journey along the 7,000km Indian coastline with classical and progressive dishes such as the Kerala mutton roast – goat, dry roasted with coconut shoots, black pepper and a unique chilli variety until tender. Or grilled river prawns with a coconut lemongrass moilee, and pickled white turmeric.

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THE SMART GUIDE

BELOW: LOST & FOUND

Musicians, drag acts and burlesque performers grace the stage at this eccentric, decadent destination

TOP: BKK SOCIAL CLUB

Based at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, the sophisticated bar echoes the glamour of Buenos Aires RIGHT: SIWILAI SOUND CLUB

Take your pick from live jazz downstairs or a sound system upstairs BOTTOM RIGHT: COCOA XO

Chocolate and cognac pair up at great height at this bar and lounge

TOP TIPPLES From swish rooftop bars and cool jazz lounges to lively clubs and hip speakeasies, Bangkok’s nightlife has had a drastic makeover from the infamous ‘sin city’ image it once had. Golden age Argentinean glamour meets Bangkok’s highenergy vibe at the newest place to be seen, the aptly named BKK Social Club (fourseasons.com/bangkok) in the historic and colourful Charoenkrung neighbourhood. Lush tropical living walls enclose a striking bar showing off an extensive spirits collection, surrounded by sleek leather booths and green-velvet upholstered banquettes. People, places and parties inspire the handcrafted cocktail list with tipples such as Evita (Plantation pineapple rum, Campari, Aperol, citrus, bay leaf, cinnamon), La Pampa (Apostoles gin, eucalyptus

Chartreuse, dry gin, pineapple juice, milk, roasted sesame syrup, sesame oil) and end it with one from the Rhythm & Legends Series such as the Dizzy Gillespie-inspired Salted Peanuts Pain Killer (spicy rum, orange and pineapple juice, salted peanut cream and grated salted peanuts). Restaurant, bar and performance space all rolled into one, Lost & Found (lostandfound-bangkok.com) extends the boundaries of fashion, art, theatre and drag every Friday and Saturday. The Blade Runner-meets-Star Wars bunker design with ceiling lights on pistons is the stage for a rotating roster of drag artists, musicians and burlesque performers, in addition to a dramatic skit based on the bar’s fictional backstory. Light bites are on the menu, and the drinks list

honey, citrus), or Carnival (Chamomile Abelha Cachaça, raspberry, elderflower, lime, egg white). Also on offer is a bottled cocktail service in 500ml, one- and three-litre variations with condiments, garnishes, ice and glassware on a small side table for groups to share. A short cab ride away, the Siwilai Sound Club (siwilaibkk. com/siwilai-sound-club) fuses a Thai aesthetic with the minimalist style of Tokyo’s vinyl bars and the live jazz clubs in New York in a tastefully restored two-level Chinese shophouse. Downstairs, local and international jazz musicians take the stage every night in the jazz-focused room, while upstairs the Audiophile Bar offers a curated listening experience from more than 1,000 LPs and singles. The topof-the-line sound system is paired with OJAS speakers built specifically for the place by famed sound designer and Public Records co-founder Devon Turnbull. The beverage list is extensive, but start the evening with Jindae (Green

echoes the theme with Rainbow Flag (Barcardi Carta Blanca rum, pineapple juice, orgeat syrup, lemon juice and glair), Vaudeville (Lunazul Blanco tequila, rosemary sous vide Campari, mixed vermouth, grapefruit bitters), and Queen of Lost Soul (Ketel One vodka, vanilla syrup, passionfruit purée, Chandon Brut). All the way across town, Cocoa XO (cocoaxobangkok.com), with a new bar and lounge, offers 57th-floor panoramic views of the city and a unique pairing: chocolate and cognac. Sip on cocktails such as the Nuage-Doux (Martell Cordon Bleu, spice and citrus vapour) and the Cocoa Alexander (Martell VSOP, crème de cacao dark, heavy cream) as you wait your turn to enter the walk-in chocolate pod, a collaboration between Martell Cognac and artisanal French chocolatier Cacao Barry. Here, handmade single chocolate meets premium cognac in soft-serve choco-cognac ice cream, handmade truffles, sumptuous choc-tails, and more.

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WELCOME BACK TO THE WORLD

ICONIC ANTARCTICA Whales, penguin colonies, icy landscapes... Embark on an expedition cruise to discover the mythical White Continent. visit: uk.ponant.com

HOT WHEELS

Coupé d’état Sunglasses, sea views, sultry skies and an SL – now that’s

PHOTO: COPYRIGHT MERCEDES-BENZ GROUP

a road trip, says Will Hersey

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HOT WHEELS

here are few cars that encapsulate open-top driving quite as sweetly and effortlessly as the Mercedes SL. When behind the wheel, it’s hard not to imagine yourself with a neckerchief and a cigarette cruising down the Amalfi coast while keeping an eye out for a good lunch spot. The original 1950s hardtop version might be famous for those fabulous Gullwing doors, but it was the roadster that drove better, and arguably looked better, setting the tone for seven further generations and sending it on its way to now revered status as a genuine motoring style icon. It only came to be after car importer Max Hoffman persuaded Mercedes to produce a road-going version of its Le Mans-winning grand prix car (the ‘SL’ bit stood for Super-Leicht: super-light) geared to the burgeoning American luxury market. He was clearly on to something. Seventy years later and this all-new 2022 edition is the first SL produced by Mercedes’ performance wing, AMG, marking an attempt to link the car once more to its roots as a serious sports car. In comes a new chassis, suspension, AMG gearbox, all-wheel drive system and a host of other engineering upgrades to try to achieve a more involving and absorbing drive, and take it beyond the status of dependable grand tourer, acquired in recent generations. Inside, a much-needed interiors revamp has brought it in line with the latest tech and luxury expectations on offer in its rivals, which vary as widely as the Porsche 911 and the Bentley GT. The new 2+2 layout – rather than

previous SL and restoring some of that old-world charm. On the road too, it all combines for an experience that offers involved driving and sharper handling when you want it, alongside a top-down cruising experience that’s hard to better. After a period of ennui, this venerable model now feels rooted in the present and future while staying true to its elegant past. Instead of looking out for a lunch spot, you might just want to keep on driving. (mercedes-benz.com)

the previous two-seat configuration – could now be used to seat (small) kids or, more likely, as a spillover shelf for road-trip paraphernalia. On the design front, the rounded back-end, bulging grille and elongated bonnet suggest some similarities to Mercedes’ own GT. Never a bad thing. The 4-litre twin-turbo V8 on offer in the SL55 and SL63 models provides a pulsating and reassuring soundtrack to even the shortest journey. Of the two variants, the SL55 is – loosely – the more versatile all-rounder but still delivers 0-62mph in less than four seconds, while the rangetopping SL63 promises a slightly more urgent 3.6 seconds to 62mph and an eye-popping top speed of 196mph. At the other end of the scale, Mercedes has just added the fourcylinder SL43 as an entry-level option. A hybrid version is on the way, while an all-electric variant should follow but hasn’t been officially announced. While the engineering might be future-facing, one retro touch sees a return to the fabric hood as per the original 1957 convertible, replacing the retractable hard-top of the

FUTURE FORWARD

From its soft-top exterior to its luxe-tech interior, the Mercedes SL (pictured, the SL55) nods to its past while looking firmly ahead

The 4-litre twin-turbo V8 on offer in the SL55 and SL63 models provides a pulsating and reassuring soundtrack to even the shortest journey

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CALIBER RM 72-01