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6.4. / 13.4. boudoir immersive izlo탑ba modnog dizajna / fashion design show
izložba modnog dizajna / fashion design show Modni studio Boudoir po prvi puta Hrvatskoj predstavlja svoj virtualni art projekt na kojem radi već četiri godine. Putem multimedijalne izložbe, koja je ujedno i prva samostalna izložba studija Boudoir, može se doživjeti prepoznatljiv stil i rukopis u dvije zasebne dimenzije stvaralaštva. Haljine izgrađene putem 3D programa koje egzistiraju isključivo u virtualnoj stvarnosti, Boudoir re-kreira i predstavlja u Galeriji Ulupuh. Unutar samog postava, posjetitelji će imati mogućnost razgledati i virtualnu izložbu zajedno sa nekoliko milijuna korisnika iz cijelog svijeta, a osim same kolekcije, cijeli proces je dokumentiran i na visoko stiliziranim fotografijama Mladena Šarića i Petre Messioptre.
Boudoir fashion studio is presenting their first virtual art project that they have been working on for four years. Through this multimedia exhibition, which is the first solo exhibition by Boudoir studio, we will be able to experience their distinctive style in two separate dimensions of creativity. Garments constructed using 3D programs Boudoir will also re-create in real life exhibits and present them at the Ulupuh gallery. Visitors will have the opportunity to see the virtual exhibition along with several million users from around the world, in addition to the stunning life size collection. The whole project is also documented in highly stylized photographs by Mladen Šarić and Petra Messioptra.
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6.4. / 13.4. boudoir immersive
“Butterfly Cluster” fotografija / photo Petra Messioptra
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Gotovo sve što su Leonardo da Vinci, Faust Vrančić, Nikola Tesla, ili Jules Verne zamislili, a u njihovo se vrijeme činilo nemogućim, ostvarilo se i u materijalnom svijetu. Danas znamo da i fantastična literatura i Otkrivenje Ivanovo predstavljaju realnu budućnost. Odavno se takozvani stvarni svijet proširuje projekcijama uma i njegovim vizijama. No koliko god se spoznaje širile, a otkrića stvarala privid napretka, tajne svijeta nisu riješene. Njihov prostor ostaje i dalje beskonačno velik. I stvara zebnju koja nadahnute duše vodi imaginaciji koju nazivamo umjetničkom, misleći time da je dosegla vrhunac imaginarne stvarnosti. Stvarnosti koja nema realni materijalni kontekst. Modni duo Boudoir – Martina Čičko Karapetrić i Morana Saračević – startale su u modnom oblikovanju na taj način 2001. godine. U hrvatskom modnom okružju koje ima ispresijecani modni kontinuitet djelovale su poput pionira određene vrste imaginativne prakse. Vrlo brzo se shvatilo da su one kreativni otok čiji modni krvotok obuhvaća više od modnog tijela za koje su kreirale svoje sezonske kolekcije.
Boudoir – Nivelacija žudnje / ana lendvaj
Za Boudoir sezona zapravo i nije orijentir. Ni vremenski ni sadržajno. Autorice su u izvanvremenskom dosluhu s tijelom. I modnim tijelom također. Postoji zamisao o ženskoj egzistenciji koju emanira modna slika te egzistencije. Za tu je sliku odgovoran Boudoir. A srž se te slike nije bitno mijenjala od Boudoirova ulaska u modni dizajn, jer im je osim primamljiva modela bila važna i cjelokupna njegova aura, puno kompleksnijih značenja od modne primjene. I same su autorice dale putokaz tome, kazavši u jednom intervjuu da im je kolekcija zapravo “vizualni opis pogrešne percepcije stvarnog stanja stvari koja rezultira tugom i žudnjom. Zbog nje, često nismo u mogućnosti krenuti dalje, te smo ulovljeni u vlastitim lažnim iluzijama”. Iako zvuči kao mrvica dobačena sa stola mogućih značenja, ta se izjava lako uzima kao moto cjelokupnom modnom radu autorskoga dvojca. Tijelo žudi, a um osjeća nedostižnost uvida u stvarno stanje koje ostaje tajnom čija razrješenja ne moraju donijeti olakšanje ni svjetlost. Boudoir odabire 4
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moguću tamnu stranu nepoznanice u kojoj tijelo obitava. U pravu je kad vjeruje da i tijelo dijeli isti tamni identitet kao i kontekst u kojem postoji. I da zadobiva posebnu, takvom kontekstu podložnu erotičnu dimenziju kao sastavnicu svoga modnog izričaja. Jasno je da modna dimenzija te situacije ne može biti obična. Tuga, žudnja, iluzija, ne događaju se u kontekstu banalnog modnog govora. Snaga Boudoirova doživljaja nalazi im odgovarajuću modnu formulu – metamodni jezik! Zadivljujuću i ujedno uznemirujuću slitinu modne povijesti i sadašnjosti. Barok i Renesansa razbuđeni su tu i dovedeni u svijet modne perfekcije koja traži svoga tumača među renesansnim znalcima cjelokupnog Znanja. Ručna izrada izgleda tu poput futurističke tehnologije. Poruka nije samo modna. Otvara nam dubinski prostor. I to ne samo svim svojim modnim sredstvima – specifičnom manipulacijom boja i tekstura, rezova i volumena. Osjećamo prisustvo nepoznatog. Autorice se naposljetku i odlučuju za nepoznato – otiskuju se u svijet globalne mrežne igre Second Life u kojem je prostor organiziran kao u realnom zapadnom svijetu. Akteri igre žive u njoj kao avatari, rade, proizvode, izlažu, imaju svoje galerije i magazine, pa čak i prodaju svoje proizvode za valutu važeću u našem realnom svijetu. Studio Boudoir ima svoj atelier u Second Lifeu, tu predstavljaju svoje kolekcije, dobivaju pohvale kritičara kao i u našem realnom prostoru. Boudoir prirodno nastanjuje oba prostora – onaj s web adresom i onaj sa zagrebačkom adresom. Navikli smo kompjutorski simuliran prostor nazvati virtualnim iako je on na svoj način stvaran. Nije to samo pitanje očnog živca koji nam omogućava kretanje u simuliranom i stvarnom 3D prostoru. Autorice kreiraju svoju art modu u oba svijeta, ispitujući dvije različite stvarnosti. Jesmo li u oba svijeta jednako na gubitku ili možda na mračnom dobitku, trebali bismo vidjeti putem ovog multimedijskog projekta koji daje uvid u obje Boudoireove, a time i naše stvarnosti. Izložbu svojih modela autorice će otvoriti istovremeno u virtualnoj stvarnosti Second Lifea i u Galeriji ULUPUH. Prvi put
Pretty much everything that Leonardo da Vinci, Faust Vrančić, Nikola Tesla, or Jules Verne could only imagine but could not carry out in the material world, has nowadays been done. Today we are well aware that fictional literature and the Revelation of John represent equally feasible future. The so-called real world has long since been expanding through projections of the mind and its visions.
/ ana lendvaj
However, in spite of all the on-going spread of knowledge and constant new discoveries creating an illusion of progress, not all the world secret have yet been resolved. The field of the unknown is infinitely vast, leaving a lot of space for creative imagination, and sometimes even art. The fashion duo Boudoir – made up of Martina Čičko Karapetrić and Morana Saračević – started up their fashion business back in 2001. Within the Croatian fashion environment, that has had a very intersected fashion continuity, they acted as pioneers in a certain type of imaginative practice. It became clear very early on that they are a creative island of their own, whose fashion bloodstream comprises of a lot more than just a fashion body clad in the latest collection. They don’t even think about seasons. Or fashion trends. They do, however, pay utmost respect to the body. And the fashion body, as well. There is an idea of female existence that’s being emanated by the fashion picture of that very existence. Boudoir themselves are responsible for that picture. And the core of that image hasn’t changed since their beginnings in fashion design, since they’ve always sincerely cared about the overall aura, more important and complex than its primary fashion value. The authors themselves had put up a certain signpost towards that direction, stating in one interview that their collection is actually “a visual description of wrongly perceived reality that in the end only results in sadness and longing. Because of this we often find ourselves trapped in our own false illusions”. Although this may sound as just a small 5
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crumb thrown off from a table full of possible meanings, this statement can easily be taken as the motto of fashion duo’s entire work. The body craves and the mind feels inscrutability of insight into the real situation which remains a mystery, but the resolution does not have to bring any relief or light. Boudoir chooses the potentially dark side of the unknown in which the body resides. And they are right in believing that the body shares the same dark identity as the context in which it exists. This does, however, incite a special erotic dimension as a component of their fashion expression. It is clear that the fashion dimension of this situation cannot be ordinary. Sadness, desire and illusion, do not occur in the context of some commonplace fashion interpretation. The power and potency of Boudoir experience brings about an equally magnificent fashion formula – a certain metaphysical – “metafashion”, which is at the same time a uniquely exciting and disturbing alloy of fashion history and present. Baroque and Renaissance are revived and brought into the world of fashion perfection seeking its interpreter among renaissance connoisseurs of all Knowledge. Handmade craftsmanship has an air of futuristic technology here. And the message is not solely - vogue. It opens the gates to the deep unknown. And this does not happen only by the use of typical fashion means - specific manipulation of colours and textures, cuts and volumes. The artists have indeed decided to step into the unknown – as they ventured into the world of global online game, the Second Life, in which space is organized as in the real western world. Players take forms of avatars, they work, produce and exhibit, have their own galleries and magazines, and even sell their products available in the currency valid in our real world. Studio Boudoir also has their own atelier in Second Life, where they show off their collections and get appraisals from critics just as they do in the real world. Boudoir
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Boudoir Levelling of desire
“Butterfly Cluster” PVC / tvrdi til PVC / hard tulle fotografija / photo Mladen Šarić
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ćemo imati autorice prisutne u oba svijeta, i kustosa također. U Second Lifeu modeli su građeni od geometrijskih oblika – od kvadrata i stožaca – slaganih jednih na druge da bi se dobio volumen. U Ulupuhovu prostoru reproducirani su od PVC folija i tvrdog tila. Hladnoći geometrije suprotstavljaju se aplicirani biofilni oblici da bi se dobila ravnoteža i svemu dao Boudoirov stilski predznak. U Galeriji ULUPUH posjetitelji će vidjeti virtualne modele koje su dizajnerice rekreirale u stvarnom svijetu. Putem PC-ja smještenog uz njih vidjet će ih izložene i u Second Lifeu. Istovremeno, izložbu će moći vidjeti i nekoliko milijuna korisnika Second Lifea iz cijelog svijeta. Putem “newslettera” autorice su posebno pozvale deset tisuća ljudi iz svoje grupe da se priključe otvorenju izložbe istovremeno kad i zagrebačka publika. Znači li to da Martina Čičko Karapetrić i Morana Saračević žude za ravnopravnošću (svojih) svjetova? Ili su na tragu starih filozofa rekle kako je ipak sve iluzija? Makar posrijedi bio jasan materijalni oblik. I to umjetničkog predznaka.
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naturally inhabits both spaces - one with the web address and the one with the address in Zagreb, Croatia. We are nowadays used to calling computersimulated space virtual, even though it is in a way real. It’s not just a question of the optic nerve that allows us to move in the simulated and real 3D space. These artists create their artistic fashion in both worlds, examining and questioning two different realities. Are we at a loss or some kind of dark gain in both worlds - we should be able to come to some kind of conclusion through this multimedia project that provides an insight into both Boudoir’s realities as well as our own. Authors will open their exhibition simultaneously in the virtual reality of Second Life and at the ULUPUH Gallery. For the first time we will have the authors, and the curators, present in both worlds at the same time. In Second Life models are constructed from geometric forms - squares and cones – built up on top of each other in order to obtain volume. At the gallery in Zagreb, dresses will be reproduced from PVC and hard tulle. At the ULUPUH Gallery visitors will see a virtual model designers recreated in the real world, and on a PC monitor placed right next to them, they will see them exposed in Second Life. At the same time, the exhibition will be available for viewing to several millions Second Life users from around the world. The Boudoir ladies have invited around ten thousand people from their group to join the opening of the exhibition at the same time as it will be available to their public in Zagreb. Does this mean that Martina Čičko Karapetrić and Morana Saračević are seeking emancipation and equality of (their) worlds? Or are they in fact on the trail of ancient philosophers who said that it is all an illusion? Even though we are faced with a very clear material form here. And one of a truly potent artistic sign.
“Nuptual Flight” fotografija / photo Petra Messioptra
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“Nuptual Flight” PVC / tvrdi til PVC / hard tulle
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fotografija / photo Mladen Šarić
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“The Butterfly Fx” fotografija / photo Petra Messioptra
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“The Butterfly Fx” PVC / tvrdi til PVC / hard tulle
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fotografija / photo Mladen Šarić
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O autoricama
Nakon završene srednje Škole primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna autorice Morana Saračević i Martina Čičko Karapetrić upisuju Tekstilno - tehnološki fakultet u Zagrebu. Godine 2001. otvaraju vlastiti modni studio Boudoir te postaju pioniri moderne hrvatske modne scene. Jedinstveni modni potpis u kojem se majstorski isprepleću unikatni materijali te originalne igre volumena, lansirale su Boudoir u prepoznatljiv modni brend. Svoje kolekcije redovito su izlagale 20 sezona na Cro-a-Porteru, a njihova kolekcija “Boudoirske kronike”, proljeće/ljeto 2005., osvaja Modnog Oscara za najbolju dizajnersku kolekciju. Boudoir koristi visoko stilizirane modne kampanje koje radi u suradnji sa najboljim fotografima i beauty stručnjacima te to koristi kao još jedan način komunikacije sa svojom publikom i klijentima. Boudoir u svojem radu bilježi uspješne suradnje na komercijalnim projektima sa Coca-Colom, Niveom i Dove. Godine 2011. autorice postaju članice ULUPUH-a, Sekcije za oblikovanje odijevanja. Kontakt Boudoir Radićeva 22 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia GSM: ++385(0)91 4813 464 www.boudoir.hr atelierboudoir@gmail.com
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After graduating from the School of Applied Arts, artists Morana Saračević and Martina Čičko Karapetrić enrolled at the Faculty of Textile Technology in Zagreb. Very soon after, they opened their own fashion studio called Boudoir in the year 2001, becoming exceedingly successful pioneers of modern Croatian fashion scene. Their unique and recognisable fashion signature, which is made up of masterfully intertwined unique materials and original play of volume, launched Boudoir as an extraordinary and distinctive fashion brand Their collections were regularly exhibited for 20 seasons at Cro-a-Porter, and their collection “Boudoir Chronicles” for spring/ summer 2005 won them the Fashion Oscar award for the best designer collection of the year. Boudoir uses highly stylized fashion campaigns, created in collaboration with the best photographers and beauty experts, to present every new campaign and communicate their vision to their audiences and customers. Boudoir has also done successful creative collaboration with commercial projects such as Coca-Cola, Nivea and Dove. Since 2011 authors of Boudoir have been proud members of the Croatian Association of Artists of Applied Arts (ULUPUH), its Fashion design Department. Contact: Boudoir Radićeva 22 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia GSM: ++385(0)91 4813 464 www.boudoir.hr atelierboudoir@gmail.com
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About The Authors
Nakladnik / Publisher
za nakladnika / for the publisher urednica / editor predgovor / introduction prijevod na engleski / english translation by grafičko oblikovanje i priprema / graphic design fotografija / photography virtualne fotografije / virtual photography make up / make up frizura / hairstyling modeli / models asistent modnog dizajnera / fashion designer assistant tisak / printed by naklada / edition
ULUPUH Hrvatska udruga likovnih umjetnika primijenjenih umjetnosti / Croatian Association of Artists of Applied Arts, Preradovićeva 44/1, Zagreb, Hrvatska / Croatia Ivana Bakal, predsjednica ULUPUH-a / ULUPUH president Maša Štrbac Ana Lendvaj Marta Cerovečki kuna zlatica Mladen Šarić Petra Messioptra Saša Joković Milena Maršić Helena Babić colors Zadar Patricija Sladić Printera grupa, Zagreb, 2013. 300 primjeraka / 300 copies
koncepcija izložbe / exhibition concept prostorno-likovni postav izložbe / installation
Boudoir Boudoir
Izložba je realizirana uz financijsku potporu / exhibition has been put on with the support of
Ministarstvo kulture RH / Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia
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978-953-327-042-5
a / Tkalčićeva 14, Zagreb, Croatia P/F / +385 (0)1 4813 746 E / galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr w / www.ulupuh.hr galerija ulupuh
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oblikovala kunazlatica