Montana
A University of Montana Publication
Field Notes
No. 1 Spring 2011
Spring Contents Royce C. Engstrom President
Perry Brown
Faculty and students from many University of Montana departments contribute to Issue #1 Spring 2011 Montana Field Notes is published twice during the academic year by The University of Montana Press. Inquiries should be sent to <umcrown@mso.umt.edu> attention Field Notes.
Provost & Vice President for Academic Affairs
James P. Foley
Executive Vice President
Dan Dwyer
Vice President for Research & Development
Christopher Comer Dean, College of Arts and Sciences
THE UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA ElLECTRONIC PUBLISHING PROGRAM Department of Geography Old Journalism Building The University of Montana Missoula, Montana 59812
Rick Graetz – Editor
Co-Director, Geography faculty Jerry Fetz – Editor Co-Director, Professor and Dean emeritus, College of Arts and Sciences Keith Graham – Art Director, School of Journalism faculty Kait Perrodin- Designer Kait is from Havre, Montana and graduated from UM Spring 2011 with degrees in Photojournalism and Creative Writing. Joe Veltkamp – Web Designer, Economics and Media Arts Student Susie Graetz – Editorial Consultant, International Programs Any use or reproduction of this Work requires permission of UM’s E-Publishing Program
Forward -
President Royce Engstrom
Alumni Note -
Bill Johnson
Studying IN THE Crown AND Yellowstone Maps -
Crown of the Continent and Yellowstone
This IS THE University OF Montana UM’S Flathead Lake Biological Station Western Montana Essay West Yellowstone
PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE
I
On a northwest Yellowstone backcountry ski trip, President Royce Engstrom and his wife Mary are flanked by Big Sky residents Jim and Sodi Jones. Jim and Sodi are UM Alums and UM Foundation Board members. --Rick and Susie Graetz photo
TS ADDRESS MAY BE Missoula, but The University of Montana’s home is in every community across Big Sky Country. And in our mountain and prairie towns, as well as the surrounding landscapes, opportunities to study the state’s physical makeup, ecology, history, and culture, as well prospects for research and sharing science in the public interest, are seemingly endless. In 2008, the University, through its newly created Crown of the Continent Initiative, commenced publishing an electronic magazine focusing on that particular ecosystem. These colorful publications have become hugely popular. Since the inception of the Crown E-Magazine, many other possibilities derived from UM’s work throughout the state have arisen and have led to the inception of a second series of electronic publications – Montana Field Notes. Although the Crown of the Continent is indeed an incredible corner of the planet, so too are Montana’s other pieces of geography. Our mountains match any in the west, and our prairie topography is unequaled. Montana Field Notes, published twice per academic year, will travel the University’s home ground, presenting articles that students and faculty have penned about their work beyond the classroom throughout the state.
While Montana Field Notes will showcase a magnificent landscape, it will also communicate the strategic plan The University of Montana has embarked on. “UM 2020: Building a University for the Global Century” sets forth the University’s major directions for the next decade. The second issue of Montana Field Notes, to be released in Autumn 2011, will begin outlining this program and all it entails. UM is entering an exciting era, and I feel it is important that all Montanans and UM alumni everywhere know of the grand opportunities available for our students at “their” university through its fortunate location in this place often referred to as “High Wide and Handsome” – Montana!
Royce C. Engstrom
President, The University of Montana
A Note from UM’S
Director of Alumni Relations MONTANANS HAVE A keen sense of place and as a people we love to tell stories. It makes sense then that former students of The University of Montana chose our campus because of its academic excellence and its location. And generally speaking, our alumni are eager to talk to others about their campus and the beauty of Montana.
Montana Field Notes will help us celebrate all that we know to be Montana. Its focus will be on different parts of this great state while also telling a story about our great University. I believe the arrival of this new e-publication soon will be as anticipated as the very popular Crown of the Continent Magazine.
Bill Johnston, Director of Alumni Relations appears on Griz Vision in The University of Montana’s football stadium as he speaks during the May 2011 Commencement Ceremony
So as you read this e-publication, please consider how you might help us. Think of people who might enjoy reading it and then forward it to them. You might think of prospective college students or teachers in your area’s high schools, as well as community and junior colleges, who would enjoy reading this publication and who might be interested in the educational opportunities at the University. You might also forward it to family and friends who enjoy Montana. As Montana is a treasure to many, so will Montana Field Notes become to its readers. Thank you for being part of The University of Montana and for helping us celebrate Montana and our University.
Bill Johnston
Director of Alumni Relations President and CEO Alumni Association State Lobbyist
This is
M o n t
Montana is often referred to as Big Sky Country and indeed it is! And under this wid the west. Images then of Montanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountain and prairie landscapes will
s...
t a n a
e canopy of the heavens rises a magnificent mix of the finest geography in be a feature of each issue of Montana Field Notes. -- Photo Will Klaczynski
LEF ABO
FT: 11.200â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Echo Peak in the Madison Range reflects in Expedition Lake -- Photo Rick and Susie Graetz OVE: Cultivation in far northeast Montana -- Photo Rick and Susie Graetz
ABOVE: Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park --Photo Will Klaczynski
ABOVE: Open range northeast of Broadus, Montana --Photo: Rick and Susie Graetz LEFT: An antelope on the Moiese National Bison Range, Mission Mountains in the background --Photo: Will Klaczynski
ABOVE: From above Mission Creek looking south toward the north face of the Absaroka Mountains --Photo: Rick and Susie Graetz
LEFT: Black Butte in the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument --Photos: Rick and Susie Graetz ABOVE: Fort Peck Lake at Fort Peck, Montana --Photos Rick and Susie Graetz
PREVIOUS PAGE: The White Cliffs of the Missouri from Eagle Creek Camp --Photos: Rick and Susie Graetz ABOVE: The Missouri River Breaks from above Snow Creek --Photo: Rick and Susie Graetz
This Is . . .
The
Photo - Todd Goodrich
University of Montana
C
RADELED WITHIN A LARGE valley in the heart of the Northern Rocky Mountains, The University of Montana offers academic excellence in an unrivaled setting. The tree-lined, 220-acre campus is bound on one side by mile-high Mount Sentinel, on another by the Clark Fork River and on two sides by the town of Missoula. Turn-of-the-century brick buildings ring the Oval, a central landmark used by students to meet and study. Nearby stand the University’s most enduring symbols: stately Main Hall with its 47-bell carillon and a seven-foot bronze statue of the school’s mascot, the grizzly bear. Established in 1893, Montana’s first university remains its leading liberal arts institution with students choosing from more than 60 fields of study for their bachelor’s degree, over 50 fields of study for master’s degrees and a nearly a dozen fields for doctoral degrees. The university is acclaimed for its high number of Rhodes Scholars, and a strong creative writing program and journalism school count among their alumni a number of best-selling authors as well as seven Pulitzer Prize winners, an extraordinary number for any university. Within the state of Montana, the university is a major source of research, continuing education, economic development, fine arts and entertainment, as well as a driving force in strengthening Montana’s ties with the nations and economic opportunities around the world. Faculty members engage in a wide range of research, creative activity and public service, with projects ranging from monitoring global warming for NASA to developing new ways to teach mathematics in our nation’s classrooms.
Beyond the expansive lawns and tree-lined walks of the Missoula campus lie further educational opportunities. With more than 3 million acres of nearby wilderness, UM offers a strong natural resource curriculum with opportunity for hands-on experience. The University operates the 30,000-acre Lubrecht Experimental Forest (managed by the College of Forestry and Conservation) and the oldest, active biological station in the country: Flathead Lake Biological Station, a world-renowned facility for ecological studies and freshwater research. Missoula, Montana is a friendly community of about 60,000 people. The downtown business district is only a footbridge away from campus, and students are drawn to the community’s outdoor activities, farmers markets and lively cultural offerings. The town is home to many writers and artists, who derive inspiration from the nearby mountains, lakes and rivers.
The Missoula community and the students of UM take particular pride in their Grizzlies and the Griz have repaid this support with prominent records in NCAA Division I athletics. Not only are intercollegiate sports popular, but three out of four students get involved in the dozens of intramural sports offered through Campus Recreation. With excellent academic programs, active campus life, beautiful environment and friendly atmosphere, The University of Montana offers an educational opportunity unlike any other.
The
University of Montana At a Glance
&
by the Numbers Founded: 1893 Affiliation: Public unit of the Montana University System
Classification: Coeducational, doctoral university Financial aid: More than 67 percent of UM students receive some form of financial aid, including scholarships, grants, loans and work-study programs. Academic calendar: Fall and spring semesters with a three-week winter session in January and two five-week summer sessions. Degrees offered: Associate’s, bachelor’s, master’s, first-professional and doctoral degrees, and technical certificates.
Campus: 220 acres at the base of Mount Sentinel and next to the Clark Fork River; includes more than 60 buildings, a 23,500-seat football stadium. UM’s 180-acre South Campus offers housing, a golf course and soccer, softball and track fields. The College of Technology occupies two sites in central and west Missoula.
Housing: Nine residence halls; three apartment complexes for students with dependents; and one apartment complex for single junior, senior and graduate students. Campus organizations: More than 150 clubs dedicated to academics, volunteer service,
Celibrating another Griz touchdown - Photo - Susie Graetz
diversity, recreation, Greek life, politics, religion and many other interests.
Varsity sports: The Grizzlies. Men: foot ball, basketball, indoor and outdoor track, cross-country and tennis. Women — volleyball, basketball (Lady Griz), indoor and outdoor track, cross-country, ten nis, golf and soccer. Club and intramural sports: Eighteen club sports and more than 30 intramural sports.
Enrollment (Fall 2010) Estimated semester costs for freshmen (2010-11) Montana resident 15,642 total Tuition and fees, $2,738 13,577 undergraduates Room and board, $3,430 2,065 graduate students Books and supplies, $475 Student Profile (fall 2010) Total costs, $6,643 54 % female Non-resident 46 % male Tuition and fees, $9,586 79 % full time Room and board, $3,430 21 % part time Books and supplies, $475 75 % Montana residents 25 % out-of-state residents 382 international students (from 68 countries) Total costs, $13,491
S T U D I E S
I N
The Crown of the Continent A N D
T H E
G R E A T E R
Y E L L O W S T O N E
The University of Montana
UM’s
A T
GEOGRAPHY DEPARTMENT offers studies in the Crown of the Continent as well as field course work in Yellowstone Park and surrounding wildlands. This is in keeping with the university administration’s belief that beyond-the-classroom work is an integral part of learning. Geography, as well as other disciplines including Geosciences, the College of Forestry and Conservation, Anthropology, Biological Sciences and Native American Studies take advantage of UM’s place in the heart of the Northern Rockies. Combined, these two ecosystems – the Crown and Yellowstone - gather approximately 33 million acres of some of the most intact, pristine and diverse geography in North America. And only 100 miles separates them. Mt. Joffre, 11,319 feet at the headwaters of Canada’s Elk River on the British Columbia – Alberta border, is the Crown’s northern most point. Straddling the Continental Divide for 250 miles, the terrain that makes up the Crown of the Continent passes through some of the most fabled landscapes on the planet, much of it protected by statute, including Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, Glacier National Park, Montana, and the Bob Marshall Country. Its southern terminus is Montana’s Rogers Pass and the Blackfoot Valley. The Mission, Flathead and Tobacco valleys form the western frontier, and the Rocky Mountain Front guards the Crown’s sunrise side. Yellowstone Country’s centerpiece is the nation’s oldest national park (1872). The ecosystem that it is part of extends outwards in all directions, taking in the Absaroka and Beartooth ranges and wilderness areas of Montana and Wyoming. The Grand Tetons, the Gros Ventre Range and the Jackson Hole region of Wyoming, the Madison, Centennial and Gallatin ranges of Montana as well as many other magnificent pieces of terrain and great rivers also constitute parts of this country. Students studying these two transboundary treasures learn many lessons from conservation work successfully carried out through collaboration that can be utilized elsewhere. And the course work also includes examples of sustainable development projects and the effects of an altering climate and how to live with it.
The Lower Falls of the Yellowstone plunges 309â&#x20AC;&#x2122; into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming --Photo: Rick and Susie Graetz
Western M
ontanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
M
o
M on ta n a
untain
P
rovince
The Big Hole Valley from Big Hole Pass -- All photos by Rick and Susie Graetz
H
EADING WEST ACROSS the vast Montana prairie, a seemingly white wall shimmers in the distance. You can see it from almost 100 miles away. In July 1805, captains Lewis and Clark, the first white travelers to come up the Missouri River, called this vision “the shining mountains.” The Rocky Mountain Front was the vista they described. This panorama on the plains stretches forever to the horizon; now, as the mountains are approached, it reaches toward the sky. Montana east of the mountains terminates abruptly against massive uplifts and western or mountain Montana’s eastern boundary begins. From this frontal rise its territory reaches west to the Idaho state line and the crest of the Bitterroot Range. The longest stretch of western or mountainous Montana points south from the Port By and of Piegan, east of Glacier National Park. Here, an eagle will fly 330 miles before reaching Eighteen Mile Peak in the Beaverhead Range and Idaho’s Lemhi River Valley. From the peaks of Glacier in the north, it’s about 120 miles along the Canadian line to the western edge of the state. In the central section, the eastern boundary is somewhat less delineated; here, 220 miles is logged from the hamlet of Two Dot to Lolo Pass. For the southern portion from Red Lodge, just below the Beartooth Range, 260 miles are traversed through mountains and valleys to Nez Perce Pass in the Bitterroot Range. Within western Montana’s perimeters, the Continental Divide twists and turns from Glacier Park south to the Centennial Range and into Yellowstone National Park. Along the way it touches some of Montana’s most fabled wilderness lands including the Bob Marshall Country, as well as historic mining districts. From this continental hydrological separation, the Missouri River is born. Waters flowing east out of springs and snow melt from countless streams feed the Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison rivers at whose confluence the Missouri begins its 2,540 mile-long journey to the Mis-
sissippi. Small rivulets of water and creeks draining from the west slope of the Divide power rivers such as the Flathead and the Bitterroot, which fuel the Clark Fork, one of the major tributaries of Washington’s Columbia River system. One writer described this western Montana country as the “Majestic Land” - and that it is! Mountain ranges of stunning beauty are interspersed with deep river canyons, broad fertile valleys, conifer forests and clear lakes. The landscape mix is some of the finest on the North American Continent. The northern half of the terrain is defined with dense forests of pine, fir and tamarack and a multitude of lakes and streams. In the southern part, the timber stands tend to be more open and interspersed with large meadows and broad valleys of sagebrush and grasses. Blue ribbon fishing rivers meander through these wide bottomlands. Thirteen federally designated wilderness areas totaling almost 3,400,000 acres grace this province. One of them, the hallowed Bob Marshall Wilderness complex, embraces a microcosm of the wild American mountain west of yesterday. a territory devoid of roads where wildlife roams free and human travel is by foot or horseback. The mountains of this piece of Montana range from lower lying and timber covered to the alpine heights of the Beartooth where 28 peaks soar above 12,000 feet. Numerous ridges and summits of some of the other Montana ranges reach beyond 10,000 feet above sea level. Glaciers fill high country cirques on many of the region’s upper peaks; in the one million acres of Glacier National Park alone, there are 25 active glaciers. The western reaches of the state cradle an incalculable number of smaller lakes and streams offering some of the nation’s finest trout fisheries. Then there are the big waters: the Madison, the Big Hole, the Bitterroot, the Gallatin, the three forks of the Flathead, the upper Missouri, the upper Yellowstone, the Beaverhead and the Smith rivers and Flathead Lake, the largest body of freshwater west of the nation’s heartland. Starting out as small, high-mountain springs along the Continental Divide, the rivers garner their strength from the contributions of pure alpine
Rick Susie Graetz
ABOVE: 11,303’ Hilgard Peak in the Madison Range BELOW: Sunrise over the Mission Mountains from the westside of Flathead Lake
creeks and streams along the way. Pertinent to the life of mountain Montana and a main part of its personality, these waterways are relied on by ranchers, recreationists and communities alike. Historians agree that the first people to settle in northwest Montana were the Kutenai (Kootenai) as well as the Flathead (Salish) and Pend d’Oreille. The Kutenai arrived in the 1500s. The Salish and the Pend d’Oreille soon moved from the northwest to the Three Forks area, then farther east toward the Beartooth. By 1800, the aggressive Blackfeet of the Plains had driven the Salish and Kutenai from the bison grounds east of the mountains back into northwest Montana. The Shoshone were in southwestern Montana before 1600. Eventually, with the advance of the white man into Indian lands, the tribes were forced onto reservations. On July 16, 1855, via the infamous Hellgate Treaty signed near Missoula, the Kootenai, Flathead and Pend d’Oreille were assigned to the Flathead Reservation. As their journals and reports described the
wonder and possibilities of the land, Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery opened the way for whites to come into western Montana. Fur trappers were the first to follow the Expedition. In the fall of 1807, David Thompson and his men entered northwest Montana and built the “Kootenai Post” near present day Libby giving it the distinction of being the first commercial establishment in what would become western Montana. In November 1809, Thomas established “Saleesh House” on the Clark Fork near Thompson Falls. Thompson explored much of northwest Montana, mapped the Missoula area from the top of today’s Mount Jumbo, and probably was the first white man to see Flathead Lake (the Indians called it Salish). His maps of northwest Montana were remarkably accurate. Thompson’s work paved the way for trappers to ply their trade in much of mountain Montana. The fur traders were not settlers; they just passed through the country. Their kind (not Thompson) brought whiskey and disease to the Indians, decimating some of the tribes. The fur business continued to prosper until about 1840 and then began to slow. The colorful era of mountain men was dying. Catholic priests came on the heels of the trappers, establishing missions at St. Mary’s in the Bitterroot (today’s Stevensville) in 1841 and St. Ignatius in the Flathead in 1854. Gold, however, was the basis for permanent white settlement in western Montana. The first discovery recorded was in the spring of 1858 at Gold Creek, just east of Drummond, by brothers Granville and James Stewart, along with their partner Reece Anderson. In July of 1862, a gold rush to Montana was initiated by news of the state’s first big strike at Grasshopper Creek. The incoming miners settled along and above the creek and the town of Bannack grew rapidly. As word of this strike and other finds reached the eastern United States, gold seekers clambered onto steamboats traveling up the Missouri River to Fort Benton, then ventured overland to the mining camps of western Montana. One year after Bannack’s inception, more than 2,000 people had moved into the creek bottom and surrounding hills. The population included some of the most famous characters of the Old West, as well as a collection of all manners of outlaws, crooks and thieves. Among these infamous individuals were Sheriff Henry Plummer and his
gang of road agents. Their kind brought on the forming of the Vigilantes, by the citizens of Bannack and nearby Virginia City, to deal out frontier justice. Simply put, no time was wasted; the alleged guilty parties were given a short, if any, trial and the usual sentence - hanging – was carried out on the spot. Other mineral discoveries followed. In May of 1863, a find in Alder Gulch, 45 miles northeast of Bannack, proved to be the largest of all of Montana’s gold strikes and spawned Virginia City. Bannack became the new Montana Territories capital in May 1864 but the treasure in Bannack played out and in February 1865 Virginia City became the second Territorial Capital, with 10,000 people massed into this rugged area. In July of 1864, the “Four Georgians” out of Virginia City discovered color in today’s Last Chance Gulch, and the city of Helena came into being. As this “gold town” took on some permanence, it replaced Virginia City as the Territorial Capital. In 1889, Montana was granted statehood, and Helena became the permanent capital. Gold was still king in the 1880s and Helena had more millionaires per capita than any place in the country - records show that there were 50 of them out of the population. The 1860s through the 1880s was a turbulent time in Montana. But by the 1890s, gold began taking a secondary role to copper. Butte produced the metal and became a major town. Considered one of the most prolific mining districts in the world, Butte earned the title “richest hill on earth.” In the late 1880s, it was also a prominent producer of silver, a byproduct of the copper. At one time, the mining town boasted of a population of 90,000 folks. As the precious metals played out, so did most of the towns surrounding the mines. Only a few of the first camps, including Butte and Helena, prospered and lasted. Overall, Montana grew out of southwest Montana and its placer gold. The miners established the first settlements, and cattlemen soon followed. Communities came to northwest Montana later as a result of the railroad and timber industry taking hold. While some precious metals were found in northwest Montana, most of this activity was confined to the southwestern gulches and valleys. Western and mountain Montana overall have changed dramatically in the past 40 years. At one time, it was easy to describe the economy
Preston Park in Glacier National Park from the trail to Mt. Siyeh â&#x20AC;&#x201C; John Lambing photo
Bannack - now a state park and Montana’s first territorial capital designated as such in 1864.
of the area as being driven by the timber industry, mining and agriculture. While the forest product sector is still the number one income producer, tourism and government employment have now moved ahead of mining and agriculture in much of the region. Transportation, education and health care are also having an increasing impact. Mining, on a small scale, still plays a role in the Butte-Anaconda area, and agriculture is important from Three Forks east through the Yellowstone Valley to Columbus. Ranching continues as the major way of life in the Big Hole, Madison, upper Yellowstone, Smith River, Shields and Centennial valleys, and the Big Timber, Livingston and Dillon areas. Missoula, once portrayed as a timber industry community, is best known now as a college town as it is home to The University of Montana. Bozeman has added the college flavor to its attributes as Montana State University continues to expand. Tourism’s growth is evident throughout the region. Compared to Montana east of the mountain, Western Montana’s communities tend to be larger
and continue to grow. The human presence on the land is more obvious. The eastern two-thirds of the state claim only two large population centers – Great Falls and Billings. In the western one-third, five concentrations of people stand out – Kalispell, Missoula, Butte, Helena and Bozeman. Western Montana is attractive, not only for an incredible landscape, but also for all the outdoor recreation it offers. Wilderness experiences that include a chance to see mountain goats, bighorn sheep or even possibly a grizzly bear or wolf, scenic drives, snow sports, fishing, hunting, floating and hiking are just a few of the myriad of activities residents and tourists alike enjoy. Lower elevation weather is usually drier in the southern half of western Montana than in the northern tier. In the higher reaches, though, each area receives plenty of snowfall, ranging from 400 to 600 inches a year. Many snow measurement courses in the mountains show anywhere from 100 to 150 inches on the ground by winter’s end. The south is somewhat colder than the north and tem-
peratures can drop to 40 and 50 degrees below zero. The national record for cold was set near Helena when the mercury plummeted to minus 70 degrees on January 20, 1954. Summer temperatures are warmer in the southern valleys than in the greener and wetter northwest. Seasons here are well defined. Winter occupies the longest period ... from five to seven months, depending upon elevation. Heavy snowfall and moisture filled clouds allow for portraits of snow-laden trees such as the “snow ghosts” found in the Whitefish and Swan ranges of the north. Ice floats the rivers and the forests are silent under a deep blanket of white. Ski tracks take over from foot traffic. Spring and early summer is the favorite time of year for most western Montanans. Melting snows and frequent rain showers bring a riot of color as wildflowers cover the mountainous landscape. The new green of larch and aspen stand out against the darker pine trees silhouetted against the still snow-covered peaks. Fishing rods come out, kayaks, canoes, and rafts are launched, golf clubs are dusted off and Montana’s sport - rodeo - returns to the outdoors. Almost every community, large and small, hosts a fair and a test of men and women against bucking broncos and Brahma bulls. Along about mid-September, with daylight fading earlier, a chill hits the air and the nights cool to below freezing. Snow dusts the upper peaks, and yellows and oranges bedeck the slopes and bottomlands; first in the cottonwood and aspen trees and later, in the northern area, larch join in with their brilliant shades of gold. Low lying brush takes on a red and purple hue, and the ducks and geese gather to begin
their flight south. The Northern Rockies of western Montana have turned to face fall. Hunting takes over from the warm season activities and The University of Montana Grizzlies and the Montana State University Bobcats renew their annual pigskin rivalry on the football field. Diverse weather, magical scenery and the flavor of the west of an earlier era combine to make Montana’s mountain region a unique place in the Rocky Mountains. Editors note: As The University of Montana’s home campus is in the mountains and as a proper introduction to the university, this first issue highlights western Montana. The second edition of Montana Field Notes will portray Montana East of the Mountains
10,157’ Trapper Peak in the Upper Bitterroot Valley – the Bitterroots highest point. John Lambing photo
Photo by Will Klaczynski
Guarding t h e H e a lt h o f F r e s h wat e r
Ecosystems The Universit y of M o n ta n a’s F l at h e a d L ake Biological S tat i o n
courses and seminars; and provide government agencies and the general public with information on current ecological issues affecting the wellINETY MILES NORTH of Missoula, being of the environment and the lives of people. tucked away on the timbered A rich history has made the stashore of Flathead Lake’s Yellow Bay, sits the University of Mon- tion what it is today. After two years tana’s Flathead Lake Biological as the head of the University of Montana’s biology department, Dr. Morton Station. Over the last 112 years, the faculty, Elrod realized that experiences in the scientists, students, and staff at the FLBS field were just as important and meanhave established it as one ingful as work conof the foremost instituducted in campus tions in the country in By Will Klaczynski laboratories. The which to conduct work pristine lake and its and scientific research surrounding mountain ranges, what on the natural processes and human activicontemporary George Bird Grinnell ties that affect the health of freshwater ecowould in 1901 deem the “Crown of the systems. Continent,” became the new lecture hall The FLBS mission is four-fold – confor Elrod and his students. His overall duct and publish novel research in ecology vision was a field station where stuwith an emphasis on freshwater ecosystems; train graduate students and prepare dents and community members could study the natural and cultural history them for careers; provide undergraduate of western Montana while experiencing students, K-12 teachers, and natural rethe environment first hand. source professionals with field ecology
n
one of it major benefactors, donated generously to the station that had so changed her life. After becoming its sixth director in 1980, Dr. Jack Stanford has emphasized the role that research and education at the FLBS can play in public outreach by providing state and national agencies as well as NGOs with reliable information about water quality and biodiversity. The station’s research and academic agendas also shifted in the direction of “systems ecology,” wherein the goal is to uncover and study the connections between all the living and non-living components of an ecosystem from the genetic level to the ecosystem-wide level. Due to the high quality of education and work produced at the FLBS, the UM Board of Regents designated it as a “Center of Excellence” in 1986. In 1999, at its centennial celebration, world-renowned freshwater science professor Charles Goldman of the University of California-Davis even proclaimed that the FLBS had become “the leading freshwater field research facility in the world.” There are currently seven PhD faculty members who teach courses and conduct research at the station. Their fields of expertise range from biogeochemistry to geomorphology and remote sensing. Owing ABOVE Dr. Morton Elrod to their diverse backgrounds and interests, a high level of cooperation and collabora UM established the station in 1899 after renting tion exists within the faculty. Supporting land in the town of Big Fork. During every summer session these professors and the FLBS mission in for the next decade, Elrod and the rest of the faculty led general are dozens of scientists and techniexcursions around the lake in row boats, climbed surround- cians, a maintenance, administrative, and ing peaks, and trekked south to the National Bison Range. IT staff, and several graduate students. After Glacier National Park was created in 1910 with Elrod The campus at Yellow Bay boasts as its first naturalist, it too served as a place where students world-class research facilities. At its heart could assist in his work. is the Freshwater Ecology Lab, where In 1912, the FLBS moved to its permanent home at samples taken in the field are analyzed and Yellow Bay. In the decades that followed, efforts were made added to the station’s data collection. The to strengthen the summer academic program and conduct M. J. Elrod Building houses offices, displays year-round research on water quality and the surrounding of current research, and the meeting hall environment. The station grew in terms of facilities and where lively discussions of recently pubcapabilities and became a major draw for students from lished papers are discussed and essential around the country. During this time, Dr. Jessie Biermann, grant proposals are written. The campus who studied at the station in the 1920’s and later became also includes a museum inside an original
ABOVE Looking north at Yellow Bay on Flathead Lake’s east shore
homestead from the 1870’s, a dining facility, classroom structures, a large dormitory, and 42 cabins capable of accommodating up to 100 students in the summer. In recent years, faculty and students at the FLBS have been involved in several high profile studies in the Crown of the Continent and around the world. One of the most successful long-term projects that the station has been involved in is the Flathead Lake Monitoring Program. Since 1977, scientists have collected data about the lake’s aquatic species, water quality, temperature, etc. to create one of the world’s most complete datasets about a body of freshwater. The information gathered has guided decisions across the watershed aimed at reducing pollution. Measurements are taken 15 times a year aboard the station’s own research vessel, the Jessie B. In the future, researchers hope to dramatically increase their understanding of the lake by installing a system of buoys that will take temperature and water quality measurements four times a
day. A recently-published study about the lake determined how the arrival of one non-native species, the opossum shrimp, led to the disappearance of Kokanee Salmon and a decline in the Bull and Cutthroat Trout populations, while the Lake Trout population exploded. This major disruption in Flathead Lake’s food web had a cascading effect on the entire ecosystem. Studies like this show how fragile and interconnected life in the ecosystems can be. Understanding that fragility and knowing why and hoWw life in the lake changes is important when it comes to lake management. Over the last decade, the Nyack Floodplain of the Middle Fork of the Flathead River has also been the scene of extensive research. Using observations and measurements predominantly gathered by students, researchers have been developing models that trace water and nutrients as they are cycled through a floodplain habitat. Floodplains are an essential part of any watershed ecosystem due
to the sheer number and variety of species they support. Farther north, studies partially carried out by FLBS faculty members helped solve a major transboundary issue. In 2007, British Petroleum proposed coal-bed methane extraction within the Flathead River’s North Fork basin. In their environmental assessment of the plan, scientists compared the poor water quality of the Elk River, which had been polluted for over 50 years by open-pit coal mining, to the relatively pristine water of the North Fork, yet untouched by major energy development. The comparison compelled a UNESCO fact-finding mission to recommend against the mining operation, explaining that its implementation would damage the environmental integrity of WatertonGlacier International Peace Park. In 2010, British Columbia Premier Gordon Campbell and Montana Governor Brian Schweitzer signed an accord to prohibit any energy development in the North Fork basin. This decision, based on the scientific facts gathered in part by FLBS faculty, has helped protect the park, Flathead Lake, and the Crown of the Continent Ecosystem as a whole. This is also a good example of how researchers at FLBS try to remain politically neutral and avoid taking an activist role, although they do consider it their responsibility to provide the best quality information possible to decision makers, even if the science is unpopular in some circles. While most of the research takes place within the Crown of the Continent Ecosystem, the FLBS has a strong global presence. Faculty and students have worked on projects in South America, Europe, and Russia’s Far East. One of the largest projects of this type is still being conducted as part of the Salmonid Rivers Observatory Network (SaRON). With funding from the Gordon and Betty Moore Foundation and in conjunction with the Wild Salmon Center and Moscow State University, FLBS researchers are well into a decade-long study (2002-2012) focusing on the health, productivity, and function of salmon rivers across the northern Pacific Rim. The study places special emphasis on the effects that climate change has on salmon habitat, conservation potential, and fisheries management. Aside from its role as a research center, the FLBS still fulfills Morton Elrod’s vision as a place where undergraduate students can gain experience off campus and learn about ecological processes
in the field through direct observation and participation. The full eight-week program usually runs from mid June to mid August and offers an excellent student-professor ratio (13:1). Courses remain field-based and students make regular field trips around Flathead Lake, Glacier National Park, and the National Bison Range. The hope is that by taking rigorous, high-level 300/400 level courses, students will exit the summer program with a strong background in field ecology and ecosystem conservation. At the graduate and PhD levels, students have the opportunity to participate in research all over the world as well as the Crown of the Continent. Courses focus more on freshwater science, remote sensing, modeling processes within ecosystems, and conservation. As with any other research institution, gaining an assistantship and research position is considered very prestigious, and top students are regularly recruited from around the country. In addition to research and academics, the FLBS plays an important role in the local Flathead Lake community and the state. Annual workshops and seminars ranging from river habitat restoration to groundwater ecology are open to general public, teachers, government agency employees, and NGO members as a way to educate individuals on ways to approach pressing ecological issues. An annual Open House in July provides researchers at the FLBS to share what they have been working on with the public and explain how the implications of their work for the environment, individuals, and communities. The event regularly draws hundreds of visitors. As another way to reach out to the public and an alternative to peer-reviewed journals, the FLBS publishes its periodical, The Flathead Lake Journal. Readers can learn about the current research projects underway, the current state of the lake’s health, and developments at the station. With the entire Crown of the Continent Ecosystem literally in its backyard, it is difficult to find any research station with such a beautiful, awe-inspiring, and ecologically important place to conduct work in. If you would like to learn more about the FLBS, please visit its website: www.umt.edu/flbs.
Will Klaczynski is a first-year masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s student in the geography program at the University of Montana. Originally from Maryland, he came to Montana in 2005 and graduated four years later with a B.A. in Geography and with German as a minor. In the last five years, he has traveled extensively across the U.S. and western Europe, visiting all of the Lower 48 along with eight other countries. An avid hiker and photographer, Will has made it his mission to get out and explore the Crown of the Continent as much as possible and is excited to be part of the universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s effort to enhance the knowledge about this unique region of North America. ABOVE Water samples from Flathead Lake - Photos by WIll Klaczynski
BADLANDS OF MONTANA
EAST OF THE MOUNTAINS Rick and Susie Graetz
F
RENCH TRAPPERS WORKING the upper Missouri and lower Yellowstone rivers and their tributaries well before Lewis and Clark made their epic journey, called the dry land formations they encountered “mauvais terres” (badlands). Painter Karl Bodmer, who accompanied German Prince Maximillian on the Missouri in 1833, was captivated by these unusual landforms and included them in his paintings. Some stretches of badlands stand out amidst expanses of prairie grass, while others are mixed with river breaks terrain. These mini-deserts begin forming once the vegetation cover has been destroyed, usually by wildfire or overgrazing. Water running off of the underlying clay surface and soft bedrock causes erosion. Gullies are formed and seeds of potential new growth of plants and grasses are washed away or unable to take hold in the hardened soil. Heavy spring and summer downpours accelerate the process. Steeper slopes are etched more quickly, and seemingly smooth surfaced alluvial deposits fan out below them. Soon, the entire disrupted area is void of green growth. Once well into the creation stage, they perpetuate themselves and become permanent. In a few instances, vegetation again takes hold in the disturbed areas and the beginnings of badlands topography is reversed. While this carved, dry-appearing country receives as much precipitation as adjacent areas, the lack of a protective shield of flora gives it an image of receiving very little moisture. Exquisite sandstone formations (where sandstone exists) are often intermingled with a badlands environment. Miniature and giant toadstools, castles and cathedrals, fine lined domes, balancing rocks, sentinel-like spires and other beautiful statues of rock add color and personality to these rain-furrowed hills while gremlins and goblins stand watch atop high cliffs. Wind erosion helps fashion them, taking away one grain of sand at a time. Badlands and sandstone sculpture displays are found throughout Montana east of the main range of the Rockies. Makoshika State Park, on the south edge of Glendive, is perhaps the best-known accumulation of these austere places. Just to the west of Makoshika and across the Yellowstone River from the town of Terry, the Terry Badlands are another good example of this unique type of terrain. East of Jordan, lonesome Highway 200 slices through extensive parcels of “mauvais terres” that range north towards Fort Peck Lake. The Powder River Country of southeast Montana, the Yellowstone River Breaks south of Sidney, many areas along the entire Hi-Line east of Browning to North Dakota and the land between Scobey and Plentywood also display zones of these fascinating miniature deserts and wind-blasted stones. The 300-mile stretch of the Missouri River from Fort Benton to Fort Peck is a showcase of sandstone creatures and badlands that illustrate evidence of what passed here 70 million years ago. Sections of McCone, Garfield and Phillips counties north and south of the Missouri were home to Tyrannosaurus Rex, Triceratops, Albertosaurus, Mosasaurus (a marine reptile) and other giant creatures. Due to erosion, some of the richest records of prehistoric life in the world have been, and continue to be, uncovered here. In 1902, one of the first T-Rex fossils ever found was discovered near Jordan in the Hell Creek badlands. Badlands are intriguing to see anytime of the year and are best photographed as the first light of dawn illuminates them and again when the last rays of the sun turn these masses of earth and rock a rich gold and orange. Newly fallen snow gives them a totally different and beautiful look when framed against the deep blue of a cold winter sky. These natural masterpieces and the surrounding surfaces are fragile, so view and photograph them from the edge, leaving them untracked.
University of Montana College of Arts and Sciences The
The CAS staff: Kneeling: Dawn Slama, Director of Fiscal & Personnel Services and Jon Tompkins, Associate Dean Standing: Chris Comer, Dean; Sarah Hinkle, Co-Director of Development & Alumni Relations; Dani McLaughlin, Office Manager; Jenny McNulty, Associate Dean; Melanie Hoell, Director of Advising
15,000 students on campus attending the other 10 THE ACADEMIC MISSION of The University of Montana is carried out by its eleven colleges and colleges. Within CAS students achieve their basic schools, and at the center of that mission is the coursework in important skills, such as critical College of Arts and Sciences. thinking, writing, mathematical Arts and Sciences is and computer literacy, public speaking, and foreign languages. the oldest and largest of all of By ynslee cott Additionally, CAS prothe academic units. It is here that students are introduced vides approximately half of to the foundational curriculum – “General Education”UM’s students their majors at both the undergraduwhich is not only intended for the CAS (College of ate and graduate levels in a range of disciplines and Arts and Sciences) students, but for most of the interdisciplinary programs that stretch across the
K
S
Humanities, the Natural and Physical Sciences, and the Social and Behavioral Sciences. The College of Arts and Sciences is without a doubt, a very busy and diverse place. The CAS faculty consists of some 360 full-time professors and scores of other “teachers” who are lecturers, part-time instructors, adjuncts, or teaching assistants. In addition to their central roles as teachers and mentors for their students, virtually all of the professors engage in important research and scholarly activity in their fields of expertise. CAS students are often invited to work with their professors outside the classroom and gain significant hands-on experience in their respective fields of study. Such opportunities lead them into libraries and archives, sophisticated science labs, archaeological digs and biology fieldwork, and to countries and cultures outside of the USA. At the helm of the College and overseeing this entire exciting array of activity –in the classroom and out—is Dean Chris Comer, who came to UM and that position in January 2009. Dean Comer’s background is in Biological Sciences, and with that love for science, he attended the University of Chicago, where he earned his Ph.D. From there, Dean Comer undertook a postdoctoral fellowship at Cornell University in Ithaca NY. He went on to serve on the faculty and as an Administrator at the University of Illinois-Chicago and did a two year term as a Program Director at the National Science Foundation, before traveling west to the University of Montana. He feels that one of his biggest challenges is his operating budget. “Finances are a constant battle,” says Comer. Although the College’s annual budget is about $22,000,000, that is relatively lean when compared to the CAS scope and responsibility. It clearly takes a skilled administrative team of Associate Deans and professional staff and some creative thinking to keep CAS on track. In assessing The College of Arts and Sciences Dean Comer proudly states, “We provide a core education for students. In addition, our faculty members are actively researching scholars at the forefront of their disciplines.”
Kelley Willett, Director of Development & Alumni Relations
Despite the budgetary challenges, Dean Comer strives to find ways to compensate for tight funding, with a clear goal of providing the best education possible to the students he is responsible for. For those 6000 undergraduates, and the 750 graduates, earning their degrees within the twenty-three departments at the College of Arts and Sciences, they can be thankful Dean Chris Comer does what he does! Kynslee Scott from Helena, Montana, graduated from UM in Spring 2011 with a BS in Geography and a minor in Mountain Studies. She will continue on with courses at the University for the 2011 Autumn Semester and hopes to pursue a Masters Degree.
West Yellowstone ... A Town that Works Will Klaczynski
.
Kevin Kent
Megan Thompson
Photo from West Yellowstone Chamber
.
.
Shannon Nyman
Michael Steinhoff
I
Editors Note: University of Montana students taking part in a two semester Geography Department sponsored course on The Greater Yellowstone wrote the following essay as a team effort.
N ITS EARLY DAYS, the town of West Yellowstone existed for one reason and one reason only – get tourists into the park. For much of its history, this attitude has persisted. But in the last few years, the town of West Yellowstone has become a destination in its own right, a place not just to pass through on your way into the park, but one where you can spend time and enjoy what the town and the surrounding area have to offer regardless of the season. Thanks to its beautiful natural setting, small town feel, and role as one of the entryways into the park, the town of West Yellowstone is an important part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The West Yellowstone area first saw a significant amount of white settlement in the 1880s. In these early years stage companies following the Madison River would bring people to visit the park. By 1907, the Yellowstone stage line was taking more than 2,000 people a year into the park from the Monida Pass train station well to the west of Yellowstone to the town. Around this time, the first commercial establishment, Dwelle’s Grayling Inn, sprouted up in the area as a stop for people on stage tours. In 1907, the Union Pacific extended the Oregon Short Line to West Yellowstone, coming in from Idaho past Island Park and Ashton. 1908 saw the first passenger train enter the future townsite and the establishment of its first eatery known as the “Beanery.” Over the next decade, visitors travelling to the park via the railroad started to overwhelm the existing services, and Union Pacific officials decided to construct a proper depot at the line’s terminus. In 1925, the Union Pacific hired Gilbert Stanley Underwood to design a new dining facility for the depot. Partnering with Daniel Hull of the National Park Service, the two helped develop the signature “rustic architecture” common throughout the parks system and exemplified by the Old Faithful Lodge. Other buildings included in the expansion were dormitories for workers and a water tower. These were all the start of what would one day become West Yellowstone. Soon after, other hotels and shops appeared to service the growing number of tourists. In 1919, President Woodrow Wilson signed measures removing the townsite from the surrounding Madison National Forest, allowing businesses to own their land instead of lease, eventually allowing the town to be incorporated in 1966. As the years passed, roads reached West Yellowstone, and an airport was built in 1935. In addition to the main tourism economy, nearby logging operations fueled growth in the town. Besides just being an entry point to the park, hunting and fishing
--Photo See Yellowstone Photo
were important drivers of growth as well. In the 1950s and 60s, snow coaches and snowmobiles helped popularize winter recreation, making West Yellowstone more than a single season town. Shortly after, in the 1970s, a resurgence in the popularity of cross-country skiing helped strengthen the winter economy. The evolution of West Yellowstone’s winter economy has not been without controversy, though. In fact, it has been a hot-button issue for a number of decades now and likely will continue to be so for years to come. After the conclusion of World War II, many Americans experienced an unprecedented level of prosperity and mobility, and Yellowstone became one of the most popular destinations in the country. Yet there was a major problem for visitors during the winter months – roads in the park were closed due to heavy snowfall and the Park Service decided it was not at all feasible to plow them; narrowness, safety, and the creation of massive snow banks obstructing views and animal movements were all factors contributing to the decision not to plow. Instead,
motorized vehicles adapted to travel on snow were allowed to enter the park. The first snow coach, a vehicle resembling a stretched out Volkswagen Beetle with treads and skis instead of wheels, entered the park in 1955. Later, in 1963, the first snowmobile entered the park. These vehicles seemed an appropriate alternative to plowing the roads. Over the next few decades, though, as winter visitation increased, snowmobiles became synonymous with West Yellowstone and the town earned the reputation of “snowmobile capital of the world.” Annual snowmobiling trips became a much-loved tradition for hundred of families, and the winter tourism industry in West Yellowstone exploded. By the late 80’s and early 90’s, as many as 70,000 snowmobiles would enter the park each year with some days seeing over 1,000 riders. West Yellowstone was booming. At the same time, many visitors, environmental groups, and wildlife advocacy groups noticed the impact that snowmobiles were having on the park itself. For the most part, snowmo-
biles operating in the park at the time had twostroke engines that ran on a mixture of gasoline and lubricating oil; they were particularly loud and produced a good amount of exhaust. Advocates worried that the noise was severely disturbing the parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wildlife and that air pollution was reaching unacceptable levels. West Yellowstone soon became notorious for the blue haze that lingered in valleys and at its entrance station, prompting rangers to don gasmasks for fear of health effects. Since 1997, environmental and wildlife advocacy groups such as the Fund For Animals and the Greater Yellowstone Coalition on one side and snowmobile advocates such as the International Snowmobile Manufacturers Association on the other have been involved in lawsuits with the NPS over winter recreation in the park. The Park Service has released several Environmental Impact Statements and updated winter use plans over the last decade as result. At one point, a ban on snowmobiles was supposed to go into
Snow Coaches --Photo Will Klazynski
effect after 2000. The decision was overturned in court in 2003 and a daily limit of 950 Best Available Technology snowmobiles was set for park and required that a registered guide, accompany groups. The number dropped to 720 a year later and is currently set at 318. These restrictions only apply to the 200 miles of groomed trails within the park, though. The surrounding Gallatin and Targhee National Forests offer hundreds more miles of groomed trails riders can enjoy. Some people claim the restrictions in the park go too far, some not far enough. What most people agree on, though, is that the town of West Yellowstone has to adapt and work together during winters that, in comparison to years past, are much quieter nowadays. Recently, proposals to start plowing park roads have awakened old arguments in favor of and against it. If roads are indeed plowed, it would harm the snowmobile and snow coach industries since they would lose a surface to travel over, but may attract more visitors and boost service indus
tries such as restaurants, hotels, and various shops. Just as always, a compromise that benefits residents as well as protects the park will have to be reached. Protecting the park has been the responsibility of the National Park Service for over the last nine decades. Still, it has to accommodate the thousands of visitors who visit the park every winter, many of whom choose West Yellowstone as their jumping off point. Warming huts, open from December 15th to mid-March, are one such accommodation that the NPS provides during the winter. These huts give Rendezvous Ski Trails -West Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation- Skiers on the trail skiers, snowshoers and snowmobilers a chance to warm themselves, purchase hot chocolate and bile guides speak about the history, geology, and coffee, and eat their lunches. A variety of rangerled programs are provided throughout the winter wildlife of the park, making trips both educational and fun for visitors. months with some especially geared towards Another industry increasing its presence children. For example, programs at Old Faithful in West Yellowstone and taking hold in the park is highlight Yellowstone’s natural, cultural, and scecross-country skiing. With six months of fantasnic wonders; and, in West Yellowstone, include tic snow, West Yellowstone is a premier destinasnowshoe excursions and talks at the Grizzly and tion for cross-country skiing. Trails cover miles Wolf Discoverey Center. of ground in and out of the park. The Rendezvous There are about a dozen snowmobile Trails have been established for over 30 years; rental and guide companies operating out of these and another 200 miles Forest Service trails West Yellowstone, but another tourist indusare the most visited in the area. The Boundary try that has steadily gained popularity is the Trail is also extremely popular. Since the cap on snow coach tour business. Taking an excursion snowmobiles in the park, cross-country skiing has in one of the classic coaches or newer transincreased in popularity. Visitors and cross country formed vans offers visitors a chance to sit back centered store owners alike are hoping to replace and experience the park in the winter without West Yellowstone’s title of “snowmobile capital having to drive themselves. Just as with snowof the world” with a more inclusive title – “winter mobiles, there are certain restrictions – only sports capital of the world.” 72 coaches are allowed within the park on any Although finding the right balance between given day and each one has to be operated by the recreation and service industries during wina registered guide. Coach guides and snowmo-
Rendezvous Ski Trails -West Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation- Skiers leaving the trail
ter can sometimes be difficult task, the residents of West Yellowstone have come together to address problems before and prove their resilience. The fire season of 1988 is an extreme example of this. The North Fork Fire, sparked by a woodcutter’s discarded cigarette, burned 794,000 acres in and around the park (36% of the park) and threatened the town itself. As hot, dry and windy conditions persisted, the North Fork Fire made its way towards town in August of 1988. On August 25, the town of West Yellowstone began conducting fuel reduction projects around buildings to reduce the potential of them catching fire in the advancing blazes. Residents rallied together to douse buildings and trees surrounding the town and at one point, farmers from neighboring Idaho volunteered their irrigation pipes to act as giant sprinklers to supplement the effort. On Sept. 3, the fire moved within 1.25 miles of the
town, but never reached any main buildings. The largest effect the fire had on the town, besides a decline in tourism, was poor air quality from the fire’s smoke and ashes. The cooperation and hard work of West Yellowstone’s residents during this time remain a testament to their commitment to the town. No matter what the season and no matter how a visitor enters the park, West Yellowstone is a town that provides the perfect base. Its history, accommodations, and recreational opportunities keep it a mainstay in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. While park management and regulations, visitor preferences, and travel costs remain ever-changing, people can be sure that West Yellowstone is a town that is willing to adapt and maintain its close relationship with one of America’s most beloved national parks.
Discover Glacier’s Beginning with a beautiful book detailing GNP decade by decade, covering the geologic and human history, from American Indian tribes to early settlers, including a chronolgy of events from prehistory to present
Through arrangements with Farcountry Press, our readers can purchase this book directly.the Crown of the Continent Initiative and The University of Montana will receive a generous donation for each book sold.
10 ½ “ x 12” Hard Cover | 168 Pages more than 240 Paintings and Photographs $48.00 including postage
To order: CALL (888) 333-1995 or GO TO
http://fundraiser.onlinemontana.com/cci