Berry: Saint-Amand -Montrond
Château de la Commanderie L A
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The Berry region is defined more by state of mind than geographic boundaries. As with most of France’s traditional pays, which existed long before bureaucrats divided the country into modern departments, inclusion is determined by subjective,“know it when you see it” criteria.To say that rural Berry is the heart of the hexagon is literally and figuratively correct, and Château de la Commanderie has been at this epicenter since the eleventh century.The village of Farges Allichamps is a convenient distance from the north-south chain of highways that intersects the country from Calais on the English Channel to Montpelier on the shores of the Mediterranean—a fitting coordinate for a château that welcomes visitors with all its heart. Guests are immediately put at ease by co-proprietor Laura Ronsisvale’s laughing eyes and spontaneous warmth. Umberto and Laura Ronsisvale embody the best of European hospitality: Italian by birth, Spanish by ancestry, and Francophile to the core.They acquired La Commanderie in 2002 from the Jouffroy-Gonsans, an aristocratic family who had owned it since the seventeenth century.The Ronsisvales were captivated by the château’s domestic charm and are determined to preserve the ambiance of a family home. Umberto, an international lawyer, has lived and worked throughout Europe, as well as in China and the United States, while Laura, a Bologna native, was a police officer in her former life.The couple discovered French château d’hôte (château guest house) hospitality as tourists and were impressed by how much friendlier they are than comparable villa bed112
Laura & Umberto Ronsisvale’s COUPS
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Aprement Floral Park
In the midst of a medieval village on the banks of the Allier River, the complex of gardens is continuously in flower from April through September. Laura admires the plays of contrast and is partial to the white garden, inspired by Sissinghurst in England. Sharing Their Home
The Ronsisvales’ emotional generosity is expressed in Laura’s sincere admission,“I love the fact that people feel truly at home here.” Noirlac Abbey
A national historic monument, the Cistercian abbey built in 1150 has been impeccably restored by the state.The eight sacred and residential elements of the complex are remarkably well preserved and the architectural purity of the interiors makes it a reservoir of peace.
and-breakfasts in Italy.To preserve the experience of staying with a family, they prefer to limit bookings to four rooms.They also removed road signs to discourage drop-ins.The reduced traffic enables the Ronsisvales to share meals with their guests and get to know them. Umberto admits, “We’re doing this because we love it, not as a business.We enjoy the exchange between people of different cultures. Our guests are treated like friends, not clients.” The château was built for the commander of the Templar knights, an order of monk-soldiers who fought in the Crusades. It was then a hospital for the
Six-Hundred-Year-Old Oak
Like the château, the venerable tree visible from the rear terrace has witnessed scores of generations come and go. Immersion in Nature
Umberto, who spends part of every month traveling to cities for his profession, delights in the sensory pleasure of returning to the countryside. Being in touch with the cycle of the seasons in the countryside is deeply satisfying.
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Knights of Malta, until it became a residence of the counts of JouffroyGonsans.The Ronsisvales are consequently B E R RY
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only the second family to own the estate in three hundred years. 1n 1998, the gardens were opened to the public. Laura admits it is less manicured since reverting to a private enclave because they have focused energy and resources on restoring the château. Set apart from the landscaped park surrounding the château, it is quite the secret garden with its profusion of roses and perennials. Bordered by a canal with a picturesque bridge, it has a dreamy romantic character that is a refreshing antidote to the rigid formality of many château gardens. There is a lovely oasis of water lilies shaded beneath weeping willows near the old séchoir (drying shed). The Ronsisvales have plans to reconfigure the planting, and Laura hopes to construct a greenhouse for orchids. In the nineteenth century, a manor house wing was grafted onto the imposing circular tower of the château.The house’s human scale, ivycovered walls, and entry porticos make it particularly inviting.This is the wing where Laura, Umberto, and their teenage son have settled.The entry hall connects both buildings and there is a natural to-and-fro between them. The eight guest rooms are divided between the two, allowing a choice between country manor and classic château ambiance. The reception rooms on the first floor of the castle are wonderful for parties.There is a grand piano in the salon and a convivial ambiance. Smaller dinners take place in the family dining room on the ground floor.The excellent chef has a restaurant in the area that is open only on weekends, which allows him the flexibility to concentrate on both clienteles.The menus he creates with Laura showcase local produce, favoring imaginative preparation over tired classics. A novel amenity on the property is a heliport, which connects La Commanderie to Paris in an hour. It is an especially useful connection in July when Formula 1 enthusiasts come over for the French Grand Prix races in Magny, just 46 miles away. Umberto, a confessed enthusiast, is the first to head for the races in his vintage Rolls Royce. 1