04| stories
A series of interviews and photographs documenting and investigating our generations’ experiences with sustainable and ethical fashion. Learn from their mistakes, accomplishments, ongoing struggles, and mindset.
32| impacts
Fashion has both environmental and social impacts. Our current trading and manufacturing practices do not look after peoples’ rights or the environment.
38 | guide
A collection of advice on how to move forward and shop more consciously. Also included is a list of local, sustainable stores here in Ann Arbor to help minimize setbacks and barriers while changing your shopping habits.
Wear well is an initiative to inspire action and enable progress towards sustainable and ethical fashion in our community here in Ann Arbor, Michigan.
stories 04
Name: Lindsey Major: Industrial Design Hometown: Flushing, MI Favorite store: Goodwill
“I usually don’t buy new clothes just because a lot of it is generic and expensive. I prefer buying from thrift stores because you find unique items that people won’t have. I think my favorite pieces of clothing come from thrifting.”
Men’s Wear Experimenter Tell me about what you’re wearing. My entire outfit is thrifted! My shirt is a men’s shirt from Goodwill. It’s great quality. The shorts were some jeans that I bought from Salvation Army that were a little destroyed on the ends so I turned them into shorts.
Have you ever bought anything you didn’t end up using? Of course. I definitely try to imagine when or where I would use the item I’m considering buying before I purchase it so that I can justify the price to how often I will use it.
What does sustainable fashion mean to you? Sustainable fashion is something that can be reused over and over again or recycled to be recreated into something new.
How can we combat the need to always want more? Humans are trained to always want more. The best way to combat it is to think about sustainability and where something will go when it is done. This topic is tricky for me because my major, industrial design, was created because of people’s need to always want more. I’m trained to anticipate the ‘needs’ of the consumer, even if they didn’t know they needed it. Heck, most jobs out there were created because people always want more. The best we can do right now is improve efforts of sustainability around the world and recycle more.
Do you feel the need to be on trend? Since vintage clothing and thrifting is being encouraged now, my true style is starting to come out. I’ve never felt the need to trash my whole wardrobe whenever something new comes out. I feel like as the years have gone on, I’ve been slowly collecting pieces of clothing to get to my ideal style. How long have you gone without buying new clothes? I would say the longest would have been a few months. When I buy clothes, I usually only buy one or two pieces at a time. I don’t buy new clothes just because a lot of it is generic and expensive. I prefer buying from thrift stores because you find unique items that people won’t have. I think my favorite pieces of clothing come from thrifting.
Why do you to shop sustainably? The unique items I find while shopping. It’s always fun to tell others the great deal you got on that piece of clothing when they tell you they like it. I usually find my favorite pieces of clothing in the men’s section and people are always shocked to find out it’s men’s.
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Fashion for Social Change What do you do (and don’t do) to make a difference, in regards to sustainability? I try to limit my purchases from disposable clothing stores as much as possible. I thrift. But I’m torn about thrifting. If I can buy clothes from actual retail stores but still thrift for the sake of thrifting, I’m taking away resources from people who can’t afford anything else. I don’t like shopping at Salvation Army because they’re homophobic. As a gay person I feel very torn. They’re doing a lot for the community but at the same time you can’t be doing a lot for the community while marginalizing many people within that community. I’ve written some emails. I’ve made some phone calls. How can we combat the need to always want more? Do your research on the people who have less. I’ve been doing a lot of research, thinking, and discussing in classes about how environmental issues so often fall upon people who are already earning a low income. To combat that feeling of wanting more I think we need to take a step back and say, do I really need this and what are the impacts of buying it? Ignorance is bliss in this situation. If everyone knew and saw the impacts of their purchases and how a short term purchase can affect generations after you, things would be different.
Name: Ariel Major: Art & Design Hometown: Brooklyn, NY Favorite store: Women’s Resource Center
The Michigan Daily Fashion Writer Tell me about your outfit. These are high waisted Wrangler pants. I got them at Salvation Army. I think I was most drawn to them because I love high waisted pants and I loved this color. I don’t have any pants like these and I’m always a sucker for fun pants. Being tall, I have the most real estate on that part of my body to wear a fun color or pattern. Do you feel the need to be on trend? There’s no way to keep up with trends,no one nas the money to do that. I was watching Queer Eye the other day and they were like “I don’t believe in fashion, its just what you like and feel confident in” and I feel like that’s so true. What’s a sustainable brand you support and why? I really like Girlfriend Collective. They make legging sets made out of plastic bottles. The colors are beautiful and they’re so soft. How does writing for The Daily about fashion intersect with your own fashion practices? I think it allows me to assert my voice, without having to buy new pieces. I can still make a commentary on the fashion industry and trends but I don’t have to own the items. Through writing I can steer away from the competitive aspects of fashion. Name: Margaret Major: Art & Design Hometown: Grand Rapids, MI Favorite store: Urban Exchange
“It’s been important for me to work hard to make sure that the consumer decisions I make are impactful because ultimately I think our buying power persuades the industry to make positive change.”
Avoiding Environmental Perfectionism Why do you to shop sustainably? I think it can be really hard to have an impact like this in other areas of life. It’s been important for me to work hard to make sure that the consumer decisions I make are impactful because ultimately I think our buying power persuades the industry to make positive change. I’ve found it’s a lot more rewarding to find something in a thrift store and know I’m giving it a second, third, or fourth home. I’m going to find a new use out of it, rather than finding something in a store where the items are mass produced and they aren’t just made for you, but for everybody else. Do you upcycle things you’ve thrifted? My friend just taught me how to sew. Sewing machines used to be terrifying to me and I used to do everything by hand. Now I’ve made a forty foot train out of old jeans. It kind of reminded me that the access to home ec-skills help us be more sustainable. My mom and grandma know how to sew but I had never touched a sewing machine before. How do you make ethical decisions? I try my best. I often fall to the point of environmental perfectionism. But that’s impossible and I think it prevents people from making any sustainable decisions because they feel paralyzed by it. My policy is to make the next best choice. It might not be the perfect thing, but you do what you can. As long as you do the best that you can in every moment and choice that you make, it’s enough.
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Is there a brand you support? Lately I’ve seen that sustainablility is becoming a trend. Brands are trying to market that. I’m really critical of a lot of brands that claim to be sustainable because they don’t necessarily do impactful things, it’s more of just a marketing tactic. I love Patagonia and the stuff they do but I wouldn’t say they’re a fashionable clothing brand. They’re about utility. Their business model is something I think could be applied to other companies and I think we’ll see more consumers challenging business to make sure that they’re ethical. I think it’s hard to vouch for one brand because there’s a lot of consumerism that still is at the bottom of it. How can we combat the need to always want more? I think by confronting why we think we need things, psychologically that’s a big part of it. Do you need this? Why do you need? Do you like it? Why do you like it, because someone else might or it’s on trend? Making sure I’m making decisions for myself, that’s helped me consume less things. Do you feel the need to be on trend? I don’t. But when I go out I feel like I have to become one of the coolest people. My friends have pushed me; they all have really cool styles. It’s not a competition but I’m more concerned with fitting in with my friends than the rest of youth culture. They have influenced my style to wear more experimental things. It’s really cool to branch out.
Name: Mackenie Hometown: West Bloomfield, MI Favorite store: Salvation Army Major: Environmental Writing & Communications + Art & Design
Name: Breanna Major: Art & Design Hometown: Ada, MI Favorite store: Salvation Army 09
“I buy clothes from companies I trust and have faith that they’re doing things for the community and the environment.”
Voting with Her Dollar When did you stop buying fast fashion? I stopped shopping fast fashion four years ago. It made me more conscious of my purchasing decisions. Patagonia taught me how your dollar is a vote and a choice for a company to spend your money. If you don’t spend your money on them, you’re not voting for them. I don’t approve of what Gap or H&M is doing so I decided to stop giving them my money. Instead of being voiceless I can have a choice. Do you feel the need to be in trend? I dress the way I want to. Thrifting is great because trends always cycle back. I don’t consider myself to be on trend. I see what’s out there and consider how I can alter it to be more reflective of who I am. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? Being more conscious of my clothing choices, the materials, and where it was made. Clothes that I own I try to wear as much as possible. If I have to buy new clothes for a specific reason I’ll treasure it more and keep wearing it for more than one season. I buy clothes from companies I trust and have faith that they’re doing things for the community and the environment. How can we combat the need to always want more? I think if we become more educated about how the choices we make have an impact and consider why we want things, that will help us make better choices. Think about why you really want something before you buy it. Will it add value to your life or do you just want it because it’s shiny and new and everyone else has it? How do you communicate your identity through clothing? Thrifting has allowed me to find clothes that remind me of my own identity and what clothes I aspire towards. It’s also allowed me to see why I make the fashion choices that I do and evaluate if the clothes actually make me feel good. I’ve found my identity through second hand clothes. 12
Name: Justina Major: Art & Design Hometown: Flushing, MI Favorite store: Goodwill
“You can find your identity through clothes. Seeing someone else with the same outfit on as you, you don’t feel yourself, you feel like another one in the mass. It’s really cool to find things that you know for a fact that no one else will have.”
Not a Walking Billboard Tell me about your shoes. These are my mom’s. She hadn’t worn them in decades. I go through her old clothes in our basement to see what’s coming back into style. And they fit perfectly. They were never worn, that’s a waste. Why do you to shop sustainably? It’s more interesting. The stuff that fast fashion produces is really cheaply made and won’t last long. Also they’re usually uncomfortable and made of poor materials, they fit poorly because they’re fastly made or have dumb sayings on them. I also like things that aren’t branding because I don’t exist to be a walking billboard. A lot of things are branded, except at second hand stores. When did you start thrifting? It’s always been in my life. My mom’s mom used to take her thrifting. I come from a poor family. We’re not bad off now but it was really bad before I was born. So that was something they always did, because they needed to. I used to be super against it because I’m a very tactile person. A lot of times you can find pieces with gross or weird textures. As I got older I realized I liked a lot of the things thrifting had to offer. What got you past the stigma? The idea of having something no one else had. You can find your identity through clothes. Seeing someone else with the exact same outfit on, you don’t feel yourself, you feel like another one in the mass. It’s really cool to find things that you know for a fact that no one else will have.
Now that thrifting has become trendy, what do you think? I don’t like that, even though I contribute to it. It takes away the good quality clothes fro the people who can’t afford anything else. I don’t like it as a fashion trend. I didn’t start thrift shopping as a trend. It started as necessity. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? It’s something that allows me to be completely unique and unlike anyone else. I have stuff that will last me more than a lifetime and I won’t have to keep buying replacements. I have staples that I can stick to that will allow me to create my being. Don’t support fast fashion. People aren’t getting paid enough and it’s hurting our environment. Do you own too much clothing? I do feel that I own too much clothing, but in reality it’s not a lot. I just want to downsize and be more minimalistic because I like that idea. I just don’t want to be stressed out. If you have too much clutter, it clutters your mind too. Do you feel the need to be on trend? No, because as a child I wore polo shirts and golf shorts. Then in middle school I wore emo clothes. Then once I got to high school I just starting wearing what’s comfy. Then people labeled me as the art kid. I was just expressing myself, but with the label it’s seen as cool.
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Sustainable Costume Designer Why are you studying costume design? I’ve always wanted to do something in fashion. I thought I wanted to do fashion design or fashion business. I didn’t want to be working just to make money. Anything in business, the goal is just to make more money, there’s no creative or social aspect at all. So then I job shadowed a costume designer my senior year in high school. I could picture myself doing it. I did costume design for two student films this past semester. The ethical side of fashion really played into that. I worked with the actors and what they had in their closet and what I had in my closet to create a costume for the character and their personality. How do you want your style to be seen? I don’t really stick to a certain style. I can be dressing like a completely different person throughout the week. I have a lot of different styles. I don’t like to stick with anything for too long. Right now I’m alternative I guess you could say in terms of style. What is the most urgent thing that needs to change in the fashion industry? We need to move away from fast fashion as consumers because companies will follow what consumers want ultimately. People keep buying more stuff and they don’t care how well it’s made because they’ll wear it for a season and then get rid of it. Overseas there’s slave labor. Production needs to change in some way.
Name: Cassidy Major: Costume Design + Social Change Hometown: Flushing, MI Favorite store: Goodwill
Fashion with a Social Conscience Does clothing have sentimental value? I take pride in the clothing that I didn’t get in the US. I have a shirt from this island in the Caribbean and a lot of scarves from Morocco. I feel sentimental about those pieces. It’s not about the find, it’s about the culture that fashion can bring. It brings a piece of a culture into my life. Of course you can mimic other cultures with the clothes we have here but it’s not going to have that same human quality. I completely understand how grateful I should be to own these pieces and travel to these places. This comes from being in a very privileged spot, however, I think we need that cultural exposure here. What is the most urgent thing that needs to change in the fashion industry? I met the people who made the scarves I got in Morocco. It’s all about human connection and personal interaction. It’s so cool to meet the people who made my clothes. Ethical labor practices are most important to me. It’s easiest to just consume less rather than think about what you could do to help a garment worker out of poverty. There’s such a lack of humanity in the fashion industry. I think production and the use of sweatshops is the cause of fast fashion. My view is based on people and how workers are being treated so poorly, horribly, and tragically. That’s the biggest issue I have with fast fashion. Fast fashion is a part of our society and I think we need to make it less of a norm of where we buy our clothing. I think social media influencers are feeding into it.
Name: Rori Major: Art & Design + Psychology Hometown: Cambridge, MA Favorite store: Raspberry Beret 17
“I think sustainable fashion is a great way to look cute, feel cute, do cute things. By cute things I mean saving the Earth. We have a choice to opt out of things that are harmful to the environment. ”
Women’s Pants Are Where it’s At Tell me about your outfit. Everything is thrifted except my earrings, my underwear, and socks. This shirt I got recently at The Getup Vintage. It’s very 90’s I really like it. These pants are my favorite thing I’ve ever bought. They’re from Salvation Army here in Ann Arbor. They’re wool with a silk lining. They work with everything and they’re so warm and so comfortable. They’re from the women’s section. I always shop in the woman’s section, that’s where it’s at. My shoes are the first thing I thrifted. I thrifted this fanny pack. I love the frankenstein stitching. When did you stop buying fast fashion? One of my new year’s resolutions is not to buy any fast fashion. It’s made me more conscious of my purchases overall, how I wear things, and for how long. It was a little before I saw the documentary (The True Cost). I’ve always gone to thrift shops to buy stuff for Halloween or other events. Then it just slowly progressed into becoming my style. Last year I joined an environmental group on campus, Epsilon Eta. That really opened my mind to a lot of the issues with consumerism that we don’t think about that are just innate and built into our society. Do your clothes have sentimental value? Absolutely. Someone owned these clothes before me and they were well loved because they’re in good condition. We’ve lost the ability to pass down items and have them accumulate cultural significance. Fast fashion can’t do that. I think there’s a pride that comes with wearing clothes that someone else has worn. 17
How do you want your style to be seen? As the artist. I want to walk into a room and people notice my clothes and think, whoa those are cool or interesting. I want people to question them. I want to use my clothes to push the message through that you can still look on trend, look cool, and still take agency over your own clothing, and wear sustainable options. What do you like to buy versus what do you like to wear? When I used to buy fast fashion I would buy things that I felt I needed. I think men’s sections are boring as fuck and tiny in department stores. There’s less options; I don’t think the stuff is cute. They never worked for me and never felt quite right. I never felt like I could buy things from or even go into the women’s side. I’ve gained a confidence from shopping second hand. No one at those stores are going to judge you for your purchases. It’s a democratizing institution. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? I think it’s about being a conscious consumer. Taking agency over your purchases, why you purchase and how you purchase. With second hand shopping it allows for more body positivity within yourself and that’s so important.
Name: Yeager Major: Art & Design Hometown: Wichita Falls, TX Favorite store: Get Up Vintage
Name: Ansleigh Major: Art & Design Hometown: Wyoming, MI Favorite store: Salvation Army
“I like being able to get away with wearing certain things. Being in art school I definitely have a right to be able to look strangely and I may never have that opportunity again in life.”
Deliberately Off Trend Tell me about your outfit. I’ve had these pants and these wool socks since high school. They’re so comfortable. This turtleneck is from when my friend and I exchanged clothes. The blazer I stole from my sister, which she got from a thrift store. I got these shoes thrifting. If you just hold them, you can tell they’re solid. They’re made in the 90s when shoes actually were made to last. What holds you back from buying sustainable fashion? The price is the biggest hurdle. But if money wasn’t an object, it would be that everything looks so granola. Some days I like that. Most of the time I want to wear something unique and strange, and you can’t find that in those stores. So I go to thrift stores instead. We need these already existing companies to become sustainable. How do you communicate your identity through clothing? Totally color and weird outfits. I don’t wear weird outfits everyday, sometimes I wear sweatpants like a normal human. Do you feel the need to be in trend? Either on trend or deliberately off trend, just enough to make a statement. I like being able to get away with wearing certain things. Being in art school I definitely have a right to be able to look strangely and I may never have that opportunity again. If I ever have a 9-5 job that requires me to wear business casual it’s going to be so much
harder to be quirky in that situation and I feel now is the time. I want people to see me wearing something absolutely insane, be curious, and then talk to me about it. I like pushing the boundaries. When did you start thrift shopping? My interest in sustainable fashion didn’t come from being sustainable, it came from being able to afford things. In high school I wanted to have a unique style, but money was tight. We would go to thrift stores or my friends would give me their clothes. If they didn’t fit or I didn’t like them, I would up cycle them. I made all my dresses for school dances and a lot of everyday wear from scratch. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? It means being fair in many facets. Being fair to the consumer. Being fair to the people making it. Being fair to the planet. It’s so simple, but when you attach all these capitalist strains to it gets a lot less simple. We need to give credit to the people who designed it, and who sewed it. Pay them what we would like to be paid if we were doing it. We shouldn’t keep making clothes out of plastic! It’s not good for your body or our world. If you wear something that’s made out of plastic, it’s going to feel like it. Our clothes touch us for our whole lives, so you should pick something good.
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Name: Karli Major: Nutritional Science Hometown: Flint, MI Favorite store: Volunteers of America
“I am motivated to shop sustainability solely because it makes me feel good to set goals for myself and influence others to care about the impact they make.�
Sustainable Self Expression What do you do to make a difference, in regards to sustainability? For sustainability, I try to buy only from companies who I know set goals to reduce or improve their environmental impact and consciously choose the materials they use to make their clothes. I also love to shop second hand. What’s your signature item, that makes you feel great? Right now my signature item is probably these Doc Martens. I wear them almost every day because they look good with damn everything. How do you want your style to be seen? I want my style to just describe me well or allow someone to be able to tell what kind of taste I have based on my outfits. I want to look like a confident badass with fantastic taste in clothes. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? Sustainable fashion, to me, is caring about the impact you are making on the planet via your clothes and making a difference by only supporting companies who set environmental goals and use sustainable materials. What motivates you to shop sustainably? I am motivated to shop sustainability solely because it makes me feel good to set goals for myself and maybe influence others to shop sustainability and care about the impact they make.
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University Wide Clothing Swap Explain the project you did this year. This semester I enrolled in a leadership institute and my team’s initiative was to promote sustainability on campus, more specifically clothing sustainability. In an effort to engage students on campus, we partnered with the School of Environment and Sustainability and the DANA Compost Crew to host a clothing swap. It’s a great opportunity to combat our need to always want more clothing because you can trade clothes with others without spending money or wasting new materials. At the clothing swap, we were able to discuss sustainability and the importance of sustainable fashion. There was a great turn out at the event and it was exciting to see members of our community come together and promote sustainability efforts in a fun way. The event encouraged clothing donations and gave people an opportunity to get rid of their old clothes to be recycled and reused. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? It’s not limited to buying clothing from companies that use sustainable materials. Sustainability can be as simple as sharing and swapping clothes to take a fresh take on old clothing.
Name: Carly Major: Art & Design Hometown: Metuchen, NJ Favorite store: Unique
Finding Fashion for the Future When did you start thrift shopping? I definitely used to shop fast fashion and sometimes I’m still tempted to because it’s so cheap. If I see something I really like I just think about how long it would really last, and of course consider all the poor conditions it was made under. But sometimes that’s so far fetched it’s hard to imagine how shitty their working environment is. I probably started thrifting in about 7th grade. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? Fashion that allows us to have a future for ourselves and generations coming. It’s all about using resources in a conscious way. How do you communicate your identity through clothing? I think coming to college made me start questioning what I am wearing and how I present myself. As a fem person in the queer community I’m trying to figure how I want to present myself to other people. Since I’m in artist I think a lot about how people look at things. It’s been on my mind how my clothing can describe parts of who I am sexually. For a while last year I felt like as a fem person, I had the pressure to dress a certain way so people can tell that I’m not just a straight person.
Name: Grace Major: Art & Design Hometown: Chicago, IL Favorite store: Village Discount
“I found this coat behind a door in my cottage. I tried to layer my clothing but nothing stops the ‘gales of November’ off Lake Superior. I tried it on and it fit great. My mother said it was hers in college. What’s 35 years to a coat?”
A ‘Better Than New’ Mindset What motivates you to thrift shop? Because I know that I don’t need to buy everything brand new because its like recycling. It’s cheaper. Even though sustainable clothing is usually more expensive, it’s just about your willingness to support, and put your money where your mouth is. If you’re really gonna believe in something you better actually do it and not buy fast fashion. I think there’s a reason you would spend more if you know it’s for a better cause. Do you think there’s a stigma against thrift shopping? There’s a line to be drawn. As much as I value thrifting, we can’t always go into stores that are designed for people who are under resourced and take advantage of the cheaper prices. Being able to go to a thrift store and buy things second hand is a privilege. These stores are meant to help people who aren’t necessarily shopping there to be more sustainable, it’s all they can afford. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? Being able to combine looking good and honing in what fashion is. Fashion is always changing. The ability to hone in on fashion to a point in which you can say that something is stylish and fashionable but it’s not something you can throw away after a few wears. So it’s reusing clothing over and over
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again. It’s getting to a point where fashion doesn’t always have to be new. It can be something recycled and used differently. Do you feel you need to be on trend? No. Its too much to keep up with. I think women are pressured to be on trend. But I think men also enjoy being on trend. I never liked what was on trend. My taste didn’t align with what was on trend so I never bought it. How do you want to be seen through your clothing? I want to be seen as a person who is conscientious. I often find myself most frustrated with complacency. I absolutely do not shop as eco-friendly as I should but I think the bare minimum as citizens and consumers is all we need to recognize the consequences of our economic actions. We ultimately control supply and demand. We don’t have to let it be this way. How do we combat the need to always want more? As much as we want to own one more thing, there comes a point when you realize that these things don’t mean as much as we think they do. I think that the point is reached at different points in life. Satisfaction does not come from a physical form. We need to realize that we can’t satisfy our wants because our wants are infinite.
Name: JT Major: Social Relations + Public Policy Hometown: Flushing, MI Favorite store: Patagonia
Name: Alexa Major: Art & Design Hometown: Wayne, PA Favorite store: Patagonia
“Overconsumption is chaotic. Having a lot of clothes is chaotic. It’s a lot of upkeep and work. Part of this project is figuring out how can I maintain this chaos.”
Low Waste Fiber Artist Explain your senior thesis project. I’m making a quilt out of a bunch old clothes. Everything I used was highly sentimental, something I didn’t wear anymore, or worn out past the point of being viable for donation. So part of this project is I’m cataloging each swatch that goes into the quilt, which is over 2,000 swatches, into a Rolodex. I’m categorizing my attachments to all of my clothing. Overconsumption is chaotic. Having a lot of clothes is chaotic. It’s a lot of upkeep and work. Part of this project is figuring out how can I maintain this chaos and think about it succinctly. A huge part of my project started with wanting to minimize the amount of clothing I had. How did your project begin? I started making these lists, from about 2013 until the current day of everything I could remember that I bought that year and what I still owned that was either new or second hand. I was interested in understanding the patterns of my own consumption. How consciously am I shopping? How sustainable is my wardrobe, really? I was trying to figure out what had staying power through these lists. If I have to buy something new or second hand, I’m still acquiring more. It helps me consider what has worked in the past and what have I kept and maintained. What inspired you? This all came from growing up next to a landfill two miles from my house. It was in the second largest landfill in Pennsylvania. By 2006 it was more than 434 acres. It quite literally became a mountain. It changed everythingthe air quality, the groundwater, and property values took a hit. It really affected me. I could smell trash and watch it build up. I was ashamed to have friends come visit me; it was this small town overrun by this massive landfill.
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“Vegan clothes are more bohemian than I am. They work great for other people but I am never going to wear that. So that’s probably my main struggle. I’m the preppiest vegan alive.”
The Non-Traditional Vegan When did you start shopping sustainably? In middle school I started liking more high quality pieces. I didn’t see that they were made more sustainably. I still have sweaters and jeans from middle school and early high school and I still wear them to this day. Once I hit adult size, it became easier to have more investment pieces that will last me forever. Do you feel the need to be on trend? No. I have always felt like I have such a set style and it’s just who I am. If anything I like when my style isn’t in because I feel the need to be slightly different. Being vegan is a struggle for that reason. Vegan clothes are more bohemian than I am. They work great for other people but I am never going to wear that. So that’s probably my main struggle. I’m the preppiest vegan alive. Does your clothing have sentimental value? The one thing I’ve felt oddly attached to is coats. When I was little I would get my older brother’s coat after he outgrew it. I would have it for a few years. I felt very attached to it because in Michigan you wear your coat every fucking day. When I steal clothes from my family I feel sentimental about them. What does sustainable fashion mean to you? That it lasts. That I like it enough that I’m actually going to wear it, that it won’t just sit in the back of my closet. I do really value that it’s not made from any animal skin as well as
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if it’s made in the US or a European country just because generally those companies maintain slightly higher environmental standards. For example, leather isn’t just bad because you’re killing animals, but because the dyes can cause cancer for the humans working and living near those tanneries and I feel responsible for that. My daily style isn’t worth them having cancer. Is it hard to find work clothes that are both vegan and sustainable? Because of my style as well as career choice I find it’s really difficult. One of the hardest things about being vegan is actually finding shoes, particularly for work. I don’t think I’ve purchased any work shoes since I became vegan four years ago. Vegan items are super high end, like Stella McCartney or just cheap, fake leather that doesn’t last and isn’t comfortable. So trying to find a level of style, function, and high quality vegan shoes doesn’t really exist right now. Do you struggle to communicate your identity through your clothing? Yes, because of that and because certain vegan styles don’t exist at this point. I do still wear wool. When it comes to my running clothes and socks, they aren’t vegan or sustainable. That’s why I’m still wearing out my non vegan shoes and I’ll cry when that’s over.
Name: Madeline Major: Human Medicine Hometown: Flint, MI Favorite store: prAna
impacts 32
Most textile waste isn’t biodegradable. It will sit in landfills for about 200 years, releasing harmful gases like methane and carbon dioxide that traps heat in our planet by the greenhouse effect, contributing to climate change.
The fashion industry is the second biggest polluter of clean water globally following agriculture. The use of toxic dyes and chemicals (pesticides, formaldehyde, PFCs, phthalate) harms both environmental and public health.
Only 10% of clothes we donate end up being sold at thrift stores. Most is shipped to developing countries, erasing their local clothing markets, traditions, or ending up their landfills.
81 lbs 33
The amount of clothes the average American will throw out per year, all ending up landfills. That’s 26 billion pounds total. That’s about 68,063 blue whales.
4,227 gallons
To only make two pounds of leather of 4,227 gallons of water are needed. Leather production is one of the most water demanding industries in the world.
Synthetic Material Man made fibers like polyester, nylon, acrylic, and spandex are derived from oil and petroleum, aka, fossil fuels. When washed, they release microfibers and microplastics. They’re not biodegradable. Manufacturing these materials requires energy intensive processes and creates lots of pollution. Natural Material Plant derived fibers like cotton, hemp, flax, jute, and sisal. They can be composted and recycled. When not grown organic, the production requires lots of water, pesticides, and insecticides. To produce one cotton t-shirt, 714 gallons of water are needed.
High demand and speed of production is putting stress on other environmental concerns such as land clearing, reduced biodiversity, and diminishing soil quality.
environmental cost 34
Most leather production is done in developing countries where legal protections for the workers are lacking. Those working in leather tanneries commonly suffer health problems like skin diseases and respiratory illnesses due to exposure to dangerous chemicals.
We only make about 3% of clothing here in the U.S. The other 97% is outsourced to developing countries around the world where the cost of labor is cheap, for example in Bangladesh, China, India, or Cambodia.
$3.00 35
The average minimum wage for garment workers. This leads to chronic mass impoverishment in developing countries. Garment workers are the most vulnerable and the worst paid. Three dollars is not a living wage.
In 2013, an eight story garment manufacturing building, Rana Plaza, in Dhaka, Bangladesh collapsed. More than 1,000 people died. The building was structurally unsound but management continued to order workers to return. It is considered the deadliest garment factory accident in history.
1/6 people work in some part of the global fashion industry. This makes it the most labor dependent industry. Most of the work is done by people who have no voice in the greater supply chain.
Fast fashion companies generate millions in profits, yet they do not support their garment workers’ livelihood, safety, or quality of life. In 2018, H&M made $450 million. However, very few of its facilities have worker empowerment initiatives such as collective bargaining or rights to make a complaint.
human cost 36
guide 38
1
Refuse. Buy less. Counter impulsive shopping. Consider if it will have at least 30 wears before you purchase. Be wary of instant gratification, indulgence, trends, and sales.
2
Reduce. Consider your true needs and wants. What will add value to your closet and what will just add volume? Borrow before you buy, look to friends, online rental sites, or host a clothing swap.
3
Reuse. Buy versatile and essential pieces. Extend the life of past purchases to reduce the environmental and human impact. Sell your unwanted clothes to consignment stores on apps like Depop, ThreadUP, Shopify, or Poshmark.
4
Repair. Be your own seamstress or find one locally. Mend rips, holes, and tears. Upcycle fabric scraps into rags, bags, or napkins to make use of unwanted or unwearable clothes.
5
Recycle. The last resort. 84% of clothing donations end up in landfills; they rarely help someone in your community. The rest is shipped overseas. These infrequent donations disrupt local economies or end up in their landfills.
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Ann Arbor Thrift Shop · $
3500 Washtenaw Avenue Suite K A local nonprofit completely run by volunteers that takes donations in good condition. In the 2017/2018 fiscal year they gave $386,000 in emergency aid and grants to the community. They sell new and used clothing, accessories, house wares, and books. Your purchases are guaranteed to help someone in our community.
Ann Arbor PTO Thrift Shop · $
2280 South Industrial Highway A local nonprofit that donates all profits to Ann Arbor Public Schools for student enrichment activities. They employ local residents and rely completely on donations. They do not buy from bundlers or other charities. They recycle what they cannot sell. When you shop here you’ll know others in our community will benefit.
The Get Up Vintage · $$
215 South State Street Owned by two hardworking, passionate women. A well curated selection of unique, high quality vintage clothing, shoes, and accessories that is organized by decade, ranging from the 50’s to the 90’s.
St Vincent De Paul Thrift Store · $$
1001 Broadway Street Owned by a local church that uses all profits to provide clothing, food, utilities, and rent to those in need in our community. It has a large selection of used clothing, shoes, jewelry, and home goods. They have a wide selection of professional clothes and unique vintage items.
Bivouac · $$$
336 South State Street A local business with a selection of outdoor clothing, shoes, and gear for climbing, camping, and other activities. They carry brands like Patagonia, prAna, The North Face, and Smartwool. They also have everyday fashion wear from Rails, Levi’s, and Citizens of Humanity. For fashion enthusiasts and outdoor explorers.
what now?
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The Artist’s Afterword The inception of this publication came from my passion for the environment, more than anything else. I hadn’t deeply considered the social impact of fashion until I watched the documentary The True Cost in 2018. It changed the way I thought about clothing. I became furiously curious to learn more about the fashion industry’s impact both on our planet and our people. I grew up going back to school shopping every August, accompanied by my mother and older sister. Because I grew up very privileged, my mom would take us to the nearby outlet mall and purchased new clothes for the upcoming school year. It became routine. As we walked store to store in the sweltering heat of summer in Michigan, we would go to places like H&M, Gap, and American Eagle. Their clothes were cute, trendy, and affordable. I only thought about the price, as long as it wasn’t too outrageous, my mom would get it for me. Not once as a teenager did it cross my mind that my desire for clothes from these stores was hurting our planet. I certainly never thought about who was making my clothes either. I had learned about sweatshops in history class, sure, but I never connected the dots that buying a shirt at H&M for $4.99 didn’t seem right. Consider the cost of the raw material, textile manufacturing, labor, transportation, and distribution. Something is off here. My journey out of the world of fast fashion has not been simple. That’s why I created this publication, to help you navigate the world of sustainable fashion. I want to share the idea that fashion can be different. It can and should consider materials, resources, and ethical labor practices, as well as be 41
affordable and accessible. We all wear clothing, everyday of our lives. Yet, we rarely consider that someone made them with their hands, and now that fabric is touching our bodies. Something so universal shouldn’t be at the expense of the well-being of others or the environment we live in and depend on. The people I was able to photograph and have conversations with enlightened and inspired me. I hope they inspire you as well. They have become my role models; they aren’t your stereotypical, tree-hugging, granola, earthy, crunchy people. You don’t have to wear hemp, eat trail mix, or go hiking to care about sustainable fashion. While they each have a unique style, personality, and mindset, their messages are universal. They are all deconstructing our long-held consumerist beliefs on which our society is based. They are role models for our generation and generations to come. Any one of these people would inspire someone to be conscious of their purchases, but together, they are a force moving fashion in a sustainable, ethical direction. I hope you feel motivated and equipped to go forward and make fashion a more sustainable, ethical industry through your consumer power. Start or continue to shop sustainably (that is, when you need to shop at all). Decide that your next purchase will be a sustainable one. We cannot continue to be a society based on consuming and discarding endlessly. Buy less. Buy better. Make it last as long as possible.
Name: Maddie Major: Photography + Graphic Design Hometown: Flushing, MI Favorite store: The Get Up Vintage Photograph by K. Grabowsky
wearwellproject April 2019