Apparel Design Showcase 2021: Breaking Silence by University of Minnesota College of Design

In a world where the future of fashion is unknown and ever changing, emerging designers are at the forefront of creatively reimagining the industry. Breaking Silence: Design for a Changing World represents a diverse collective of 12 designers producing inspiring collections that challenge the perception of what we wear and how it’s made. By using natural fabrics, hand-dyeing techniques, timeless silhouettes, and wearable technology, each collection breaks through the norms of traditional fashion and brings the wearer into the process through a human-centered approach. Collectively, these designs uniquely confront and reflect upon the systemic issues in the fashion industry, utilizing the power of design to meet the needs of a changing world.

table of contents

designers

Annie Holmes

Lizzy Cobb

p 08

p 34

Chia Thao

Mia Minnema

p 12

p 38

Chong Xiong

Noah Garon

p 16

p 44

Darunee Thao

Thao Nguyen

p 20

p 48

Jahanvi Kamra

Wendy Sandoval

p 26

p 52

Lauren Nicol

Xilin Yang

p 30

p 56

articles Written and produced in partnership with The Wake Student Magazine a fortnightly (bi-weekly), student-operated arts, culture and social commentary publication.

Future of Fashion: Rising to the Creativity Occasion written by Jemma Keleher

p 06

Embracing Tradition in Modern Design written by Sydni Rose

p 24

The Art of Adaptability written by Shannon Brault

p 43

Instagram, the Runway of 2021 written by Marley Richmond

p 60

the future of fashion Rising to the Creativity Occasion written by Jemma Keleher

he fashion industry often sits at the center of culture as we know it, and, along with that influential position, has visibly been impacted by recent changes in the attitude and lifestyle of consumers. The effect of clothing on the environment has come under scrutiny, forcing designers to rethink the way they produce their work. In addition, the current pandemic has shifted the workflow of these creatives almost entirely. As we watch these design seniors walk across the digital graduation stage, we also witness them stepping forward into an industry at a turning point. One stone the fashion industry is turning over is the fight for sustainability in clothing. Fast fashion has emerged as a point of contention, forcing consumers to decide between cheap, trendy clothing and well-made, often more expensive pieces from designers. But every low dollar spent on these cheap pieces comes with an additional cost: the impact fast fashion has on the Earth. According to Chia Thao, one of the students in the University of Minnesota’s apparel design program, “The rise of fast fashion allows consumers to accept the lesser quality of garments at an affordable price, regardless of the environmental impact.” These cheap pieces tend to come from factories overseas, often in places where low wages and lax labor laws allow workers to be exploited. In a world where trends come and go like passersby, the quick production of new products in these factories also promotes fast fashion. “I like to think of fast fashion as a quick way to throw away old merchandise when new trends came in. That’s a problem that has created a lot of waste in the fashion industry,” says Thao. But as awareness of issues surrounding these practices becomes more widespread, designers have undertaken the role of creating in a more sustainable way.

“[The industry] is focusing on making the fashion industry safer in terms of sustainability. More and more people, current and upcoming designers, pay more attention to helping the environment than in the past,” says Thao. Another change in the fashion industry has come about largely due to the COVID-19 pandemic: digitization of almost all operations. As it has become unsafe to perform any business in person, many designers turn to digitized versions of their practices. This virtual format encompasses every aspect of the process, including designing, modeling, and selling their work. In March of 2020, when lockdowns were first introduced and the world was in a frenzy to navigate the new norm, the fashion industry faced similar challenges to businesses across the world. With the absence of face-to-face contact, how could operations continue? But, according to Thao, business persisted with a little bit of creativity. “The industry didn’t stop entirely, and an example of that is Paris fashion week. They didn’t stop the show, but instead found another way to show the collection: videography.” One year after the first lockdown, as the pandemic persists, it appears that the industry may sustain practices like these farther into the future than originally imagined. The benefits of digitization are clear, and may seep into practices even after in person operations are allowed to resume. Xilin Yang, another student in the apparel design program, recognizes the benefits of the virtual realm. “I think in the future, the fashion industry will develop toward e-commerce, especially using social media. I have seen the importance of online channels through this pandemic,” she says. “Traditional retail businesses were severely hit, while brands with mature online businesses were less affected.” This digitization has also impacted the students in the apparel design program, as they were moved from in person classes to conducting their projects through computerized programs from home. “The majority

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THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND WORK THAT WAS PUT INTO THE PRODUCT IS THE VALUE THAT MAKES THAT PRODUCT STAND OUT.

“ of my senior collection was done on the computer, including patterning, grading, and so on,” says Thao. But this learning curve wasn’t unaided, as they worked within a group of talented students and professors to adapt to this sudden change. “We have tutorials provided by our professor, and after knowing the basics it becomes easy. It is definitely way more efficient than drawing by hand,” says Yang. Yang even notes that there were many benefits to conducting her work digitally. “The best thing about it is it shows what the garment looks like on the avatar, so I can adjust everything before cutting,” she says. “From this experience I learned how to make digital patterns, which I think is more sustainable than hand drawing.” This transition to a new format didn’t deter the seniors in the program, and they successfully navigated the virtual programming in order to create their collections. While it took learning a variety of new programs and getting more creative than ever before, they produced pieces that reflect their trademarks as designers and as visionaries. In fact, Thao’s designs are largely inspired by the new working style many have adapted to during the pandemic. “The concept of my designs is to provide comfort to my user. The pandemic has impacted many people in ways of working from home, so I tried to create clothes that are comfortable, appropriate enough to wear during work time, and multi-use,” she says. “The collection can be worn in and out, and be casual or formal wear as well. My designs are meant to provide the user with multiple options,” Thao says. “They can wear them to workout, to run to the grocery store, etc. They can also be layered with other pieces.” This flexibility reflects the lifestyle of operating from home and the transition to brighter days. For Yang, femininity and whimsicality are apparent in her collection. “My collection is inspired by the wide variety of feminine experiences, expressed in the texture of the ruffling throughout,” she says. “There is a sense of airiness and an ethereal vibe that is empowering and

free spirited. These are dresses for the modern woman who dares to express her individuality and independence. I also made my collection with care and designed to fit many different body types.” After spending months creating these collections, the designers highlight the importance of supporting work that is made with care. “The amount of time and work that was put into the product is the value that makes that product stand out,” says Thao. “Therefore, it is essential to value designers time and work that they put into their work as a consumer.” Yang also notes that she as a consumer values sustainability practices when shopping for clothing. “I love to spend more money on pieces that are made in a sustainable way. I like to support those designers who are making efforts to change the situation of the fashion industry and the pollution it creates,” she says. She continues by saying, “I believe my small actions can make some difference to the industry, and also make those designers feel supported. As for myself, by stopping buying fast fashion, I found that I value my clothes more and will wear them for a longer time.” Yang is an example of someone who creates clothing with care and also consumes consciously, recognizing the impact that her dollars have. As they step forward into the industry, these students have a bright outlook for the future of the fashion industry and the changes taking place. “I hope in the future people can slow their pace and make their purchasing decisions more carefully. If more and more people join the army of sustainability, I believe the fashion industry will change,” says Yang. These seniors present their final projects with pride and look forward to stepping into their careers after graduation. As they do so, they bring with them both a new perspective on sustainability and a better understanding of the possibilities of digitization. These assets will undoubtedly be invaluable as the industry continues its transformation, and will assist the University of Minnesota’s designers in changing the future of fashion.

annie holmes

This collection was inspired by the untold stories embedded in the history of the American West. Like the women surviving this extreme time, this collection explores the balance between hard and soft, masculine and feminine, and ugly and pretty. Incorporating trends like botanical dyeing and hand-worked leather, this collection embodies the movement toward slower, more sustainable fashion practices. Dark blue denim and black lambskins are paired with washed silks, hand-dyed with marigolds, hibiscus, onion skins, and rust. Beautiful, complicated, and unique, this collection is for the woman who is grounded in the real world yet seeks an escape from the everyday.

anholm

Annie Holmes is a fashion designer who imbues her work with both fantasy and function. With technical skills that complement her vivid imagination, she has a passion for making clothing that fits real women and suits their lifestyles. A natural introvert and avid reader, she has always been curious about the human experience across other times and places, translating this itch to learn or reinterpret into her apparel design. Passionate about both the technical process and the emotional impact of fashion, she believes that all women deserve comfortable clothing that enhances their lives and stimulates their minds. 10

chia thao

Coming to the United States in 2004, Chia Thao found her love for fashion in her high school years and discovered her interest in women’s wear during her degree in Apparel Design at the University of Minnesota. As a first-generation college student coming from a low-income family, Chia found self-confidence through fashion and apparel. She believes that women have the power to wear what they are comfortable in, free from the judgment of others. Through her design experiences, turning sketches into wearable products, she wants to use her skills to help women, like herself, find themselves through what they wear. 13

motion 14

This 2021 collection, Motion, is an intentional mix of activewear and streetwear, designed to fit the wearer’s everchanging needs. With more individuals working from home, comfort is a key element of this collection, meant to embody her desire for work-life balance. This collection provides that flexibility that can take her from work to workout, going-out to lounging on the sofa. Chia’s designs also bring in simplicity and a lightweight approach to activewear, providing high visibility, performance, and convertibility in daily casualwear to take young women from work or school to home. 15

chong xiong

Hmong-American designer, Chong Xiong, seeks to challenge the norms and empower others through her design. Her inspiration stems from her wanderlust spirit of traveling, photography, and lived experiences of those that she encounters. Growing up she watched her mother embroider and sew elaborate Hmong textiles and traditional dresses to support her family. This fueled her to explore the world of apparel, at the intersection of modern and traditional Hmong clothing. As a Hmong womxn navigating two cultures, she looks to her roots to ground her as a designer. 17

Inspired by the rich colors and textiles of the Flower Hmong tribe located in northern Vietnam, this collection is a culmination of Chong’s modern approach to design, with appreciation for the culture of her upbringing. Paj (pa) meaning flower in the Hmong language, is a reference to the Hmong Vietnamese traditional wear of the Flower Hmong tribe, whose vibrant colors and intricate textiles are at the center of her design. Paj is also a common name given to Hmong women, and also the name of Chong’s mother, who played an intricate role in her life and work.

paj s/s 2021

Born in Thailand, Darunee Thao, grew up observing her parent’s creativity and expertise in making Hmong jewelry and traditional clothes, inspiring her career as a fashion designer. After resettling to the United States in 2004, she has spent much of her educational and professional career designing for local fashion shows for Planned Parenthood and Fresh Traditions Season 13. In many of her designs, Darunee utilizes creative exploration with nontraditional materials. Heavily influenced by the transition to a new culture, she has taken a mix-and-match approach to her collections blending elements from different high fashion street styles.

darunee thao

Inspired by Indonesia fashion blogger, Olivia Lazuardy - known for her odyssey of fashion, style, and travel - this S/S 2021 collection is a combination of streetwear and refined tailoring that redefines the meaning of casual streetwear. The setting for this collection is a coffee shop, a busy street, a cozy apartment - the aspirational city of the young, professional woman. The muse’s modern urban lifestyle is perfectly outfitted in this mix-and-match collection that pairs professional pieces, street-style bucket hats, and forward-thinking trends like double collars and a repurposed shirt in a palette of new neutrals and pops of orange. 22

now aesthetic

embracing tradition in modern clothing Apparel Design Students Incorporate Tradition Through The Process Of Designing Their Capstone Collection. written by Sydni Rose

n inherent contradiction underlies any attempt to simultaneously modernize the world while embracing it’s many traditions. However, students in the University of Minnesota’s Apparel Design program have found ways to modernize their clothing collections while being inspired by, and incorporating, tradition.

Senior Chong Xiong created PAJ, a contemporary clothing collection for women, that found inspiration primarily in her Hmong heritage as well as colors and textures found in nature. The rich pool of tradition that can be drawn from these elements made their way into Xiong’s modern collection, but not without difficulty. “I struggled with translating my visual inspiration from my Hmong heritage into a modern contemporary collection,” she said. Annie Holmes, a recent graduate from the program, chose to incorporate traditional techniques into modern trends by hand-dying her own fabric. “Some people would like something that’s hand-dyed and maybe a little bit imperfect— they might value that more,” Annie said. Another senior apparel design major, Noah Garon, incorporated modern technology into his collection of evening wear for women. Garon’s collection Neshuma was built to provide medical and safety functions by embedding technology into the clothing itself. Still, Garon uses tradition in his creative process, “I try to touch on tradition every time I see something new because that’s where the inspiration comes from.” He made a point to mention how modern systems, both in fashion and elsewhere, overlook disabilities. Garon made it a goal to provide a new standard for clothing that includes people of all abilities. While it can be difficult to find a balance between embracing tradition and modernity, these designers were willing to confront this unlikely combination and reaped the rewards. Each of their unique collections stand as a testament of their ability to honor tradition in a modern world. “Challenging tradition doesn’t mean getting rid of it,” said Garon, “it aids in designing for modernity—designing for the future. An example of that is Paris fashion week. They didn’t stop the show, but instead found another way to show the collection: videography.” One year after the first lockdown, as the pandemic persists, it appears that the industry may sustain practices like these farther into the future than originally imagined. The benefits of digitization are clear, and may seep into practices even after in person operations are allowed to resume.

“ Challenging tradition doesn’t mean getting rid of it. It aids in designing for modernity—designing for the future.

“ 25

jahanvi kamra

Raftaar is an A/W 2021 streetwear collection designed for women who desire a polished yet comfortable approach to their on-the-go lifestyle. The word Raftaar is Hindi for ‘speed’ reflecting the fast-paced lifestyle of the wearer, as well as the ever-changing nature of the fashion industry. Each piece has a focus on function, with several adjustable features allowing the individual to modify the design to their own height and/or modesty preferences. This, combined with a new muted color palette, presents a capsule-style approach with multiple opportunities to wear each piece. Innovative hardware choices add a one-of-a-kind addition to this highly wearable, street-ready collection.

raftaar

Jahanvi Kamra is an Indian born women’s ready-to-wear designer channeling her passion for art and design into a career in fashion. Guided by her experiences in art and graphic design, Jahanvi is able to guide the creative process with a strong understanding of the ways design, construction, and branding come together to complete a collection. Her designs are streetwear and athleisure inspired, that are feminine and bold, using small details and signature elements to create a bit of an edge. 28

lauren nicol

Designer Lauren Nicol creates women’s ready-towear that puts a twist on current trends. Inspired by the individuality of clothing, she values the personality people show with what they chose to wear. Lauren’s ideal customer wants to feel bold and confident, and she imbues her designs with the empowerment they need to feel like the best version of themselves. 31

re.f ined 32

Inspired by Instagram influencer Caroline Ebo’s minimal and luxurious Instagram feed, this collection is a juxtaposition of menswear inspired tailored pieces with feminine lingerie silhouettes. The line uses a neutral color palette of beige, tan and blush that, combined with the structured pieces, give it a classic and timeless vibe. Collectively the elements of menswear tailoring, lingerie, and a subdued palette create an elevated and luxurious collection. 33

lizzy cobb

Formerly resistant to change, designer Lizzy Cobb found a sense of comfort and familiarity in the chaos when she recently moved to New York. The fast pace of the city and dynamic environment match her own energetic work ethic. Her passion for detail in fabric, construction and fit has served Lizzy well in her career as a technical designer working for companies such as Badgley Mischka. Whether designing for a brand or working on a team, she brings these elements of art and functionality into all areas of her work. 35

Inspiration for this A/W 2021 collection stems from the idea of adaptability; juxtaposing style and comfort, fluidity and structure, light and dark. Today, we adapt as our wardrobes, offices, and lives continue to change. The girl who once wore heels and leather pants to work is now wearing sneakers and jeans. This collection, designed to meet the customer’s new needs, strikes the balance of a casual-cool style. Through the use of high-quality textiles and staple silhouettes this capsule collection allows its wearer to mix leisure with luxury.

a/w 2021

Mia Minnema is a women’s wear designer with a focus in swimwear and summer inspired apparel. Endlessly inspired by the sun, warm weather, and overall summer aesthetic, Mia is a designer on the forefront of the latest trend and continually finds ways to reinterpret her work, always anticipating the next wave in fashion design.

mia minnema

This modern swim and effortless beachwear collection is inspired by the laid-back vibes and luxurious white sand beaches of Australians Gold Coast. Designed for the fashion-forward woman, this line incorporates an entire range of swimsuits and coverups that are all interchangeable - adding versatility, choice, and play for the wearer. Exclusive fabrics and metallic details provide a feeling of luxury to strappy silhouettes and trendy cuts, perfect for the woman who desires a touch of sophistication to her summer style. 40

mimi swim

the art of adaptability written by Shannon Brault

f the past year has taught Wendy Sandoval and Thao Nguyen anything, it’s that being able to adapt to the changes thrown at you is a key part of creating art--which is just what both of their lines are: pure art.

The Covid-19 pandemic changed how the senior fashion showcase was conducted, and both Sandoval and Nguyen felt the effects. They were only able to use the studio for a few months before the University switched to its online format. After that, things got more difficult. Both designers ordered the majority of their fabrics online, which took a significant amount of time to arrive and prevented them from being able to source the fabrics in-person. They adapted to these changes by switching the type of material they used, hand-dying their fabrics to get the right color, and adapting their designs to the reality of the fabrics they had. Additionally, since they could not access the studio, they did not meet their models until the day of the photoshoot, needing to work off of measurements given to them in advance. Despite the hiccups in their plans, each designer created a cohesive and stunning collection to display. Both Ngyuen and Sandoval stuck with their original inspirations, colors they wanted to use, and the types of designs they wanted to create. The way they executed their designs and kept moving forward when details around them kept changing is the real test of adaptability, and both of them succeeded. “Things happen, and you just have to move on and work with it,” Sandoval said. “It will all turn out in the end. Or even if it’s not exactly what you want, you’ll be happy as long as you embrace those challenges and changes.”

noah garon

Neshuma is a wearable tech collection demonstrating the flawless alliance of technology and elegance. Seamless integration of electronics into fabric allows for evening wear to develop purpose beyond fashion. Each garment contains electronic components that both elevate the look and provide safety and medical functions for the wearer. These electronics are applied covertly to provide their wearer with ease of mind, body, and soul on their night out. These one-of-a-kind evening gowns show off the wearer’s bold personality while providing a sense of comfort and control.

neshuma

Fashion designer and wearable tech engineer, Noah Garon, specializes in robotics, coding, and manufacturing technology. His interests have led to a deeply rooted desire to expand the use of wearable technology as a way to improve lives. In order to acclimate the public to wearable technology, Noah believes in slowly incorporating technology via fashion. As consumers become comfortable with wearable tech it will make it more desirable for everyday wear, and easier to integrate life-altering devices into everyday apparel. Noah’s goal is the seamless integration of this practical technology into fashionable apparel and accessories for a better and safer world. 46

thao nguyen

Born in Northern Vietnam, Thao Nguyen moved to the U.S. at the age of ten. Viewing the world from two different cultures has broadened her design perspective. She often takes inspiration from the vibrant colors, textures, and beauty of ever-changing nature - because she believes that, like nature, fashion is an extension of who we are. Her designs are brought to life in a new art form that decorates blank canvassed bodies. Thao creates designs for young adult women that promote selfexpression, allow the wearer to feel empowered, and look effortlessly chic whenever and wherever. 49

thaoism 50

The Thaoism collection is inspired by the idea of women’s empowerment embracing design elements found in nature and wildlife. Thaoism is a combination of the designer’s Vietnamese name Thao and the suffix -ism meaning “a distinctive practice or an artistic movement”. Defined varied pleats make a statement throughout the collection, representing the natural pleats found on betta fish’s fin. Lace and eyelet fabrics bring contrasting textures inspired by calcified coral reefs in the ocean. Elegant silhouettes showcase romantic and youthful designs, pulled together with a bold red hue - a nod to the designer’s Asian background - representing luck, happiness, and bravery. 51

wendy sandoval

As a first-generation Mexican-American and first college graduate in her family, Wendy Sandoval is influenced by her experience growing up in a dual culture. She explores using clothing as a canvas to convey the machismo and sexist gender roles she experienced, believing that clothing does not have a gender attached to it. As a reserved person, Wendy’s voice comes out in her designs, capturing a moment from each step of the process as it evokes emotions and stories within. Influenced by her past experiences studying with designers in Italy, she continues this exploration of creativity and passion to speak for her. 53

Inspired by the process of creating clothing, this loungewear collection is an exercise in the craft of design. By following the minimalist trend that is being forecasted for S/S 2021, the designer allows the viewer to focus on the work that goes into even simple garments. Using a color-palette inspired by the natural color of cotton fibers, hues of green, orange, tan, and pink, these classic loungewear pieces feel fresh and in tune with the wear. Process is key to this collection but subtly hidden in these functional and forward-thinking garments.

elevated

International student Xilin Yang creates designs that embrace her fascination with silhouette, texture, color, and the senses. A listener and observer, she is inspired by her everyday life, like her mom’s femininity and independence - these two conflicting feelings help her create for women a sense of uniqueness and confidence, never prim or girly. Through her experiences of designing and marketing, she has a better understanding of the fashion industry and found the direction she wants to pursue which is fashion marketing. 56

xilin yang

This S/S 2021 collection is inspired by the wide variety of feminine experiences, expressed in the texture of the ruffling throughout. Formed from white organza - there is a sense of airiness and an ethereal vibe that is empowering and free spirited. These are dresses for the modern woman who dares to express her individuality and independence. 58

girl of dreams

instagram, the runway of 2021 The Influence Of Social Media On Fashion written by Marley Richmond

rom Instagram influencers to TikTok trends, there is no doubt that social media is becoming increasingly entangled with the fashion industry. Lauren Nicol, Darunee Thao, and Mia Minnema all harnessed the power of social media when creating their collections. “It’s hard to visualize new trends and styling aesthetics, but these fashion influencers make it easier to identify [them] and what’s going on in the market,” said Thao. Her collection, New AESTHETIC, reflects the mix-and-match style of Indonesian fashion blogger Olivia Lazuardy by featuring a mashup of street style and fine tailoring. While their designs feature different aesthetics, Nicol’s collection, re.fined, draws inspiration from a similar source: the “luxurious minimalism” of Instagramer Caroline Ebo. “I wanted to design something that was really striking in photos,” Nicol said. To do so, she focused on “the strong lines of the tailored pieces to create an elegant and powerful feel” in images. By designing clothes that photograph well, Nicol aims to market her collection to Ebo herself as well as her many followers. Social media, after all, can provide both a source of inspiration and an online gallery. “Social media is a great way to grow a personal brand as a designer, as well as connect with other creatives within the fashion industry,” said Minnema. Minnema’s collection, MIMI SWIM, captures a new wave of trends in the fashion industry while remaining“timeless as well.” By utilizing the creative power of social media, each of these designers uses a digital platform to inspire, showcase, and brand their unique work.

“Social media is a great way to grow a personal brand as a designer, as well as connect with other creatives within the fashion industry.”

Wake Magazine Contributors Esther Chan, Executive Director

acknowledgements

Tala Alfoqaha, Editor-in-Chief Marley Richmond, Managing Editor / Contributing Writer Shannon Brault, Contributing Writer Jemma Keleher, Contributing Writer Sydni Rose, Contributing Writer Staff Luci Kandler, Teaching Specialist Lindsey Strange, Teaching Specialist Ashleyn Przedwiecki, Fashion Show Coordinator Lucy Dunne, Professor & Program Director of Apparel Design and Apparel Studies Elizabeth (Missy) Bye, Professor, Human Dimensioning Laboratory Co-Director Credits Graphic Design: Zenab Kashif Photography: Alyssa Justice Photo, Tanner James Photography Videography: Entidal Venue Space: The Holden Room Hair and Makeup: Toddi Rogers, Jenifer Anfison Talent/Models: Wehmann Agency Ashlee Blake Mina Lavalier Julia M Nelson Abby Valek Mentors Tessa Druley Silvia Gutman Lizzie Hilman Katerina Helebrantova Beth Kamienski Jenny Olson Anna Peshock Marina Qualey Samantha Rei Emily Trevor Laine Weinberg Regena Yu

Special thank you to our sponsors

The Class of 2020 would like to thank the College of Design faculty and staff for their guidance, our mentors for their expertise and direction, and our friends and family for their love and support throughout the years. We would also like to thank Some Good People and the Nash Gallery for sponsoring and supporting the experience. We are grateful to Alyssa Justice and team, Entidal, Wehmann Agency, The Holden Room, and our independent hair and makeup artists for providing their services and talent for the photoshoot. Special thank you to the staff and contributors of the Wake Magazine for making this editorial and written work possible! Thank You To Our Supporters Ada Johnson

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University of Minnesota Apparel Design Class of 2020/ 21