Plat 12
FOCUS ON SAUVIGNON BLANC This month we are focusing on that little grape that has created a big stir around the world; Sauvignon Blanc. It is a wine that is adored by millions and often denounced by the wine snob community. Truth be told it is a grape that the wine industry dearly needed. The Australians and Californians made varietal wine popular. I.e. instead of buying a Pauillac one would by a Cabernet Sauvignon. To achieve great heights in marketing varietals, especially linking them to flavour, the wine marketers out there needed to find grapes that tasted of something distinct. A couple of options emerged in the white category, including Chardonnay, Riesling proved to be too complex, but Sauvignon Blanc had a special something about it. People could recognise its pure fruit, its freshness, the way it makes your mouth water and then hits you with waves of tropical fruit, green pepper and river pebble coolness. This is a story of just what makes it tick.
A small HISTORY LESSON The French don’t agree on much and they certainly don’t agree on where Sauvignon Blanc originated from. It is either from the Loire valley or Bordeaux. At some stage Sauvignon Blanc got together with Cabernet Franc to create the famous Cabernet Sauvignon. The modern history of Sauvignon Blanc started with its migration to New Zealand in 1973, where it still makes some of the finest examples in the world.
FOCUS ON THE GRAPE Under the Influence of Climate Getting the climate Blanc. Too warm and becomes a fruit loop. thin and acidic, with asparagus.
right is key for Sauvignon the wine loses its acidity and Too cool and the wine can be no fruit and loads of tinned
Wine makers have become smart in their manipulation of the vineyard in different climates. On South Island, in New Zealand, the canopy is raised like a solar panel to capture the most light to ensure proper ripening. In warmer climates like California, the grapes are often harvested slightly earlier to retain acidity. This can unfortunately sacrifice aroma and flavour. There is a bit of a battle on for the soul of Sauvignon Blanc. Some prefer the greener option, with cut grass and green pepper on offer. Others prefer the tropical fruit bomb. Consumers seem to choose the fruit bombs more often, and the awards are more often than not racked up by the leaner more “complex” versions. South Africa has examples of both to offer the market.
Under the Influence of Soil Only the French really pay massive attention to soil and Sauvignon. Typical combos are: •
Limestone: Balanced wines, with richness and complexity
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Chalk: Finesse and perfume
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Granite or flint: Mineral, gunflint character
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Sandy and alluvial: Spicy, floral and rich
New Zealand winemakers have clever combos of Sauvignon Blanc from late ripening heavier soils and earlier ripening (warmer) stone soils, creating a range of flavour in the end product.
WINEMAKING While Sauvignon Blanc rarely touches oak, when it does it is called Fume Blanc or Blanc Fume. Oaking a Sauvignon Blanc needs to be done with care, or the fresh flavours and uplifting acidity could be lost in the tangle of new oak flavour and tannin. A more typical wine making debate is one that takes place once again between the Old World and the New World. New World Sauvignon Blanc’s are often fermented at a much lower temperature in stainless steel, leading to intense fruit characters. Old World wine makers tend to ferment in oak at a warmer level especially to avoid those tropical flavours, this is said to reflect the terroir of the wine more. Skin contact is also popular, leading gooseberry, green pepper and flavours. Leaving the wine on the contributes to a smoother mouthfeel and can also protect the excessive tannin contact, if it is in barrel.
to intense asparagus lees also wine from
SAUVIGNON BLANC WITH FOOD Sauvignon Blanc is quite a dynamic food wine. It has a zest acidity, which can cut through even heavier seafood dishes. Typically it pairs beautifully with a range of seafood and Thai dishes. Also, its acidity seems to compliment dishes made with tomato. A local delicacy in France is a Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc with goats cheese. Maybe a trip out to Fairview is in order to test this theory? The great thing about this wine is that it doesn't need food to enhance it. It can be enjoyed purely on its own as a pre dinner or lunch beverage.
STYLES OF SAUVIGNON BLANC What should Sauvignon Blanc taste like? Sauvignon Blanc can have varying flavours and aromas according to the climate in which it is grown and the style in which it is made. One thing is usually agreed upon, it is a wine that should be consumed in its outrageous and outgoing youth, before it loses that fresh and crisp acidity. Typical flavours include gooseberries, green pepper, kiwi and passion fruit and cut grass. Fuller examples show melon, white peach and a creamier mouth feel, while others show a flinty flavour, usually indicative of the soils in which they are grown. A good way to look at flavour and style with Sauvignon Blanc is to take a quick journey around the world.
France: Loire Valley: The most famous appellations are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. The wines of the Loire valley have been goaded by the New Zealand success to do better. The older style of grassy and gooseberry flavour is being replaced by melons and stone fruit like peaches and apricot. More producers are taking on modern methods of cooler fermentation, but the wines are typically more restrained than their explosive cousins down in New Zealand. France: Bordeaux: Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux is typically blended with Semillon. They do like their blends in Bordeaux! The dry white wines in Graves and Pessac-Leognan are often fermented and aged in new oak, giving them more body and often a buttery texture. Rest of Europe: The best examples are found in cooler climates such as Austria, northern areas of Italy and parts of Spain. Keep a look out for the wines from Romania and the Czech republic. Yashkamesh!
USA Sauvignon Blanc plantings are on the decline behind the massive resurgence of Chardonnay. Good examples are made in parts of California but cooler regions tend to do better, even though they have small plantings. Washington State and Oregon are two examples of this.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was brought to New Zealand’s South Island in the 1970s. If anyone has watched Super 14 games played on South Island it is pretty clear that they possess a cooler climate! Marlborough has emerged as a clear forerunner region for the grape. They produce lip smacking wines with citrus, tropical fruit and a lime zest.
South Africa Sauvignon Blanc has been a great flag bearer for South African wines over the last few years. They have been scooping up a lot of accolades internationally and the consensus is that they sit inbetween the intense fruit bombs of New Zealand and the understated examples from France. This is due to the varying terroir that we have on offer. Wine makers can source grapes from warmer climes in Stellenbosch to create the more opulent style of Sauvignon Blanc, filled with tropical fruit. Alternatively they can head out to Elgin, Elim and Walker Bay for cool, crisp, grassy and citrus examples. We are truly spoilt for choice in South Africa. But… what does it do for flavour? At the end of the day Sauvignon Blanc has opened up the door for many people to really engage with a white wine that knows who it is. There are not too many subtleties to the grape. It engages your palate with dagger like intensity and freshness and just as quickly disappears down your throat, which induces a mouthwatering sensation and another quick sip. Well, the best examples do this. There are some wine drinkers that just can’t handle its acidity and lack of complexity. They can however rest assured in the knowledge that if they don’t like it, it has certainly had a hand in breeding a wine they probably do like, Cabernet Sauvignon!
PLATINUM 6