UNHEMMED May 2013
the entertainment issue
UNHEMME incoming:
marissa bergman editor-in-chief catherine gao managing editor
madeleine luckel & dominik halas & jasmine bala fashion features editors samantha rose womenswear editor sophie blistein menswear editor marissa petteruti accessories editor corrine szczesny & blair huang street style editors jennifer morgan beauty editor caroline bologna entertainment editor chelsea english art editor jacqueline phillips layout editor minji cha business manager ingrid chen web editor
ED outgoing:
mj batson & april zhang editors-in-chief rachel watson tiffany mendoza layout editor fashion editor dominik halas menswear editor chelsea english & catherine gao art editors
elaine kuckertz street style editor marissa petteruti beauty editor
lily sykes marissa bergman accessories editor and web assistant entertainment editor sally luu ashlyn koga business manager web beauty editor
LETTERS FROM THE EDITORS
THANKS When we first started Unhemmed, I had no idea what the magazine would become. I like the idea of change, in a general sense, and the thought of bringing something new to Brown that didn’t exist yet seemed like a challenge. During these past couple of years, I like to think I have grown just as much as my magazine. We went from having photoshoots in the temporary Blue Room to travelling to locations and all the while I went from studying biology to doing whatever creatively inspires me on a particular day (insert weeping mother here). We went from a staff of two to a staff of over thirty. We went from being unknown to being respected among our peers. People ask me why I do the various things that I do and in truth I don’t really know. I just like what I like. I would rather do a photoshoot than write a paper. I’d rather edit a website than go to a party. I’d rather put on an event than sleep. I’m a wee bit odd I suppose. April and I have had a great run as the founders and editor-in-chiefs of Unhemmed. Working with her has been a blessing. She is one of the people that I know accepts my craziness. She’s the Unhemmed ying to my yang; the apples to my peanut butter; the milk to my oatmeal! The Bajas to my burrito! We’re soulmates. Now that this part of my life is coming to an end I am happy to have left Unhemmed in such capable hands as Marissa’s. She’s dedicated, capable, and beyond committed. Even though Unhemmed and I are moving in separate ways (because I’m getting old!) it has become a magazine that I am proud to have my name on. I am proud to have been a part of this publication. I am proud to have met the beautiful people that I have because of it. And I am glad that we were able to feature, profile, and photograph so many awesome students. I hope you find this last issue with open arms whether you’re new to Unhemmed or an old friend. It’s been a privilege to put together so many issues and watch our presence grow these past few years. I look forward to many more years of Unhemmed celebrating Brown University style, arts, & culture. Good luck with exams and enjoy the issue! And as always, check out the web. Ever true,
I LOVE YOU, I’LL MISS YOU I feel like I’ve been saying this all year, but now it rings true more than ever: being a graduating senior is the most bittersweet, awesome, terrible, sad, happy, stressful, and fun time ever. It’s a little too much for me to handle. But I know that I’ll take with me everything that I love (and let’s be real, leave behind everything that I don’t). On the short list of those things: my friends (obviously) and Unhemmed. I’m a cryer - I cry watching TV shows and movies (and not just the tearjerker ones), reading tragic news articles, reading silly young adult novels, saying goodbye to anything. I already know I’m going to cry a lot in the next three weeks, but I have to remind myself that I’m always going to have the people I’ve become friends with here, the Unhemmed community we’ve built, and a fierce loyalty to both Unhemmed and Brown. Unhemmed has been extremely important to me in the past two years, and I have only you to thank for that. So thanks for reading, for contributing, for being awesome enough to be featured (if we could, I would feature every single Brown student ever), and for supporting us past, present, and future. You’ll never know if I cried while I wrote this. MJ and I have been with Unhemmed since the beginning; but it’s time to let it go. Just like Brown will always be the place I grew up, Unhemmed will always our baby. I know Unhemmed is in good hands though - I am super excited for Marissa to take the reigns as Editor-in-Chief (because she is amazing!!) - and I know that Unhemmed will to continue to improve and grow as the years go on. Please keep being the inspiring, intelligent, stylish, creative, hilarious, and happy Brown students that you are so that Unhemmed can continue to feature you. Congratulations, everyone. It’s been real. I love you, I’ll miss you.
Love always,
LETTERS FROM THE EDITORS
AND SO IT BEGINS I am proud to present the May issue of Unhemmed, otherwise known as The Entertainment Issue. Brown is simply brimming with fascinating, talented, unique, and stylish students – Buzzfeed couldn’t have been more right in recently ranking Brown as the smartest and sexiest college in the nation. So, naturally, for my first issue I wanted to feature as many as my peers as possible (and, of course, I’m completely unbiased as the outgoing Entertainment Editor). We packed this issue with tons of photoshoots: we got edgy with Harmonic Motion, sweet with the lovely duo behind Annie and Connie’s Bakery, creative with slam poet Paul Tran, and let loose and simply had fun with a menswear feature on all-male a cappella fashion. Of course, as in every May issue, we also provide extensive coverage of the amazing third-annual Brown Fashion Week, hosted by the ever-impressive Fashion@Brown. And that doesn’t even cover half of our content – but the rest you’ll just have to discover yourselves as you peruse our pages. You’ve all inspired me in my three years at Brown thus far, so I hope this issue of Unhemmed can return the favor and help you find some inspiration as well. Enjoy your summers, because there’s no need to worry about missing Unhemmed until the fall. With our new website looking better than ever, expect to see new content going up, even while we’re away from campus. Unhemmed is beginning to surpass our wildest expectations, and I couldn’t be more excited to begin this journey.
Lots of Love,
CONTENTS
may 2013
street style
best of Brown style
fashion
brown fashion show: behind the scenes fashion show highlights the shortslist a capella men
beauty
backstage at the fashion show neon beauty
diy
bowtie necklace
entertainment
Milo & Otis inside the wardrobe: The Great Gatsby Winterfresh: Cody Fitzgerald
art
student submissions dandies at RISD
features
Behind the Scenes: Annie & Connie’s Bakery That Guy: Paul Tran Harmonic Motion Fresh Faces Take Ivy, Take Two Bohemian Spring goodbye April & MJ
on the cover: Jackie Phillips, photographed by MJ Batson
street style
IRIFF ULEP ‘13
TAN ZHANG GS
STREET STYLE
STEFFAN KIM ‘16 MICHELLE CHANG ‘14
JAKE MOFFETT ‘15
DONNA LEONG ‘13 DJAKE MOFFETT ‘15
STREET STYLE
KATY DIVYA WINDEMUTH BHARADWAJ ‘15‘14 and FAITH DICKERSON ‘15
TIFFANY CHANG ‘16
KEVIN DHALI ‘16
STREET STYLE
ALPSARAH OZCELIK DILLARD ‘13 ‘16
CHRISTINA HO ‘15
TATHYA ABE ‘16
STREET STYLE
DANLY KARINA OMIL-LIMA MANALO‘13 ‘13
ZHUO’ER WANG ‘13 and SPENCER EINBUND ‘13 YONGHA KIM ‘15
STREET STYLE
VIVEKA HULYALKAR ‘15
RUIXIANG LI ‘15
FASHION
Photos by Alli Schaaff
BEHIND THE SCENES:
BROWN’S THIRD ANNUAL
T
FASHION SHOW
he third annual fashion week’s biggest event culminated with the fashion show hosted by Fashion @ Brown in Granoff Studio. The show featured student designers, models, hair and makeup artists and was organized by members of F@B. The show featured an eclectic mix of designers; each garment varied in aesthetic. The experience of the models coupled with the hair and makeup choices gave the stylish people at Brown a platform to express themselves and a chance to become more involved with fashion. Unhemmed takes you backstage as a year’s worth of work is put on display for one night. Florina Heredea ’16 (above) was involved in almost all parts of the process: she designed two pieces, modeled one of them herself, and did her own hair and makeup. “It’s an amazing feeling to see your vision on stage,” said Heredea after the first show. “You really hope the audience is get-
ting everything you want them to see, beyond the fabric.” Allison Morgan ’15 (top right), a Brown/RISD dual degree student and a designer, was inspired to participate in the show after attending the one hosted last year. She describes her collection as consisting of modest, long-sleeved gowns that are still beautiful in silhouette. Designer April Zhang ’13 (third from right), was involved with the show since it first started as an independent study project. She describes her designs as “basically a resort collection” with bright colors, geometric, summery cuts and lots and lots of stripes. Vivian Carlson ’14 says that one of her favorite parts of the process is sewing her designs. “It puts me at ease,” she says. “It’s almost meditative.” Her entire collection
was based on different fabrics she found, which ended up inspiring the feminine, youthful cuts and pastels that defined her designs. Marcy Wong ’16 said she was really excited to be desiging for the show even though it was more of the experience of partaking in the show than having a garment on showcase. As someone always interested in creating and designing for others, she decided to create designs for her friends here at Brown. Wong’s garments were individually designed, keeping the framework of each model in mind. Wong used shades of black and white to bring out the silhouettes of her models. Alex Joukowsky ’16 was asked to model two days before the show. She said that modeling wasn’t quite her “calling” but she still found “walking the runway to be empowering.” Over 30 models such as Alex modeled for the show. Though it was the first time modeling for most of them, they received training by their designers prior to the show. The show organizers had multiple run-throughs before the show to ensure the models were comfortable on the runway. “If you think you are walking slowly,” said Madeline Ritaccio, one of the organizers,“Go slower.” -Eugenia Lulo
FASHION
Photos by Alli Schaaff
ON THE RUNWAY:
B
HIGHLIGHTS
rown Fashion Week 2013 concluded with the third annual student fashion show, hosted by Fashion at Brown. Following a series of industry events including business panels and film screenings, the show brought the focus back to College Hill by featuring the work of Brown and RISD student designers. The most notable collections of the night were praised for both aesthetic appeal and execution, gesturing to designers’ taste and talent.
As the first model of the night stepped out, indie group White Hinterland’s Icarus streamed from the speakers of the Granoff Center’s Englander Studio. The ethereal vibe of the music captured the ghostly palette and sweeping fabrics of Allison Morgan’s collection. Though many of the
collection’s cuts were conservative, certain accents added a playful touch to the overall look, such as the navy maxi dress with a nearly imperceptible exposed side zipper. Morgan also paired many of her looks with headpieces, adding an urban and modern flair to the collection. The colors and the cuts were bold, making for a striking and perhaps the most refined collection showcased this year. April Zhang, who has designed for the show since year one, showcased a new level of maturity in her collection. Though the colors were more muted as opposed to the flashy neons in years prior, the collection was all the more vibrant. A truly unified collection, each ensemble featured a blend of colorful stripes balanced with crisp white. But
colors and patterns did not entirely carry the collection— Zhang also proved her talent for construction by making subtle gestures to current trends like the crop top, the maxi cut, and the exposed back. Known for her own colorful personal style, Zhang’s final collection for Fashion at Brown was a hit, convincing the rest of us that a colorful world is indeed, a happy world. Junyan Liu (Eugene) describes her aesthetic as modern, clean, effortless, and chic, but a longer list of adjectives is needed to describe how impressive her first collection showcased at Brown truly is. Discussing the show afterwards, Liu’s first piece—a two-toned white mini dress—was
a common favorite. However, Liu had several noteworthy pieces. While each year certain collections rely on one or two strong pieces, Liu’s collection was solid across the board (another remarkable piece was the black and white block maxi dress with side slits). This might best be attributed to the combination of sheer fabrics and tasteful slits, or the fact that Liu has seemed to perfect the craft of draping. A freshman at RISD, we can look forward to what Liu will prepare for years to come. To see more of these outstanding collections and others, check out unhemmedmagazine.com. -Tiffany Mendoza
FASHION
PRANAI BOSC ‘16
BILL CORK ‘14
theshortslist
KAIVAN SHROFF ‘15 Dear Man-at-Brown, Well, you’ve done it. You’ve survived another (or your first) Providence winter. Now you can finally shed your heavy sweaters and extra layers and emerge a new man for spring. You can finally show your Vitamin D-starved skin a bit of sunny loving- and you should. We’ve all heard the frat mantra “sun’s out, guns out,” but you, Man-atBrown, can take it to a whole new level: “sky’s out, thighs out.” If your father is anything like mine, you may have spent childhood trips to the beach dying of embarrassment over Dad’s decades-outdated high-cut swim trunks. Fortunately for your poor, pale thighs, though, above-theknee shorts are your one-stop key to this season’s spring
DAK SHERIFF ‘16 and summer dressing. Leave your high school shin-length cargo shorts in the drawer this year and opt for daring with 7” or 5” inseams. Pick pairs in pastels, creams or dusky reds and blues. Pay homage to the prints too with embroidered anchors and the like. We recommend J Crew for the traditional, Ralph Lauren for the experimental, and Chubbies for the BeerBQ goers. To compliment your gloriously bared shins, try boat shoes, loafers or sneakers, but keep your socks low or hidden to avoid looking like a total nerd. Wear them best with a button down or a polo, but a t-shirt works too: no matter what you put on top, your attention to detail will show that you’re a cut above the rest. -Sophie Blistein
a capella men
STARRING: Johnny Quarrels ‘13, Arr! Brendan DeWolf ‘13, The Bear Necessities Sean Simonson ‘15, Arr! and The Jabberwocks Nate Wardell ‘14, The Brown Derbies Vitto de Viao ‘15, The Jabberwocks Editor: Sophie Blistein Photographer: Sarah Cheung
PRANAI TAN ZHANG BOSC ‘16 GS
“I used to wear a bow tie, which was something I was really happy with, but everyone kind of hated me for it.� -Vitto de Viao
“We’re starting to transition over to bow ties. Clearly I’m behind the trend.” -Brendan DeWolf
“The Jabberwocks don’t really have a defined style, so that makes it easier to jump into pirates.” -Sean Simonson
“The pirates are like a free-for-all.� -Sean Simonson
“Silly ties are our big thing. We love to hate the uniform.� -Nate Wardwell
BEAUTY
Photos by Alli Schaaff
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY:
BEHIND THE F@B FASHION SHOW
W
ith the myriad of designers, artists, and other creative forces involved, it’s not surprising that the beauty in Fashion at Brown’s show was so inspirational. From natural to intense to all out wacky, the backstage looks included a variety of designers’ artistic expressions to match the clothing and accessories. While many of the models wore a natural look with light berry or rosy lips (seen on Minji Cha ‘14, below), others wore heavy, graphic black eyeliner drawn on with a liquid pencil. Several others wore a softer, smokier look with full flushed cheeks and lips. Some highlights included the black, doll-style lips paired with thick black lashes (seen on Alex Wardlaw ’13, right) and the classic red lips mixed with purple pigment done by lead makeup artist and hair stylist Madeline Ritaccio. -Jennifer Morgan
BEAUTY
NEON BEAUTY A
h, neon. While once deemed too flashy for everyday wear, neon has now become effortlessly trendy and chic. If you went anywhere on campus during Spring Weekend, chances are you saw it splashed all over tanks, tees, and every item of clothing in between. Neon makeup, however, is a completely different story - while it looks great on the runway, it can be difficult to pull off in real life. Here are a few tips to avoid looking like a clown:
Creamy in texture and high-powered in pigment, this fuchsia lip pencil provides a beautiful pop of color. Pair it with nude eye makeup for even more intensity. Nars, Satin Lip Pencil in Yu, $25.
Hot pink, lasts forever, rich in pigment, and super creamy. MAC’s Amplified collection gets it right on all counts. MAC, Lipstick in Impassioned, $15
• Keep it simple. Unless you’re going for a high level of shock value, avoid wearing extremely bright colors on both the eyes and lips. This especially applies to those with lighter skin tones, as darker complexions can typically handle more color. • Match with caution. Sometimes matching your makeup to your outfit looks great (think red lips, red dress) but in the case of neon, it can take on the circus effect. • Exfoliate, prep, and prime. Neon makeup will make your entire face more noticeable, so glowing skin and flake free lips are key. On the eyelids, use a matte primer to make pigments richer and to prevent shadow creasing. • Remember where you’re going. Electric blue eyeshadow isn’t appropriate in a professional or more casual setting, but it looks awesome on a night out.
All too often the eyeshadows available in mass market stores don’t deliver enough pigment – not the case with this long-lasting, shimmery cream. Pair it with a nude lip and intense black liner and mascara for balance. Maybelline, 24 HR Color Tattoo in Painted Purple, $7.
• Use contrast to play up the eyes. For blue eyes, this means neon orange; for green, a shocking purple; for hazel, a bright pink; for brown, almost anything goes. Don’t match your eye makeup to your eye color, as the synthetic shade will overpower your natural pigment. • Progress upwards. Neon nail polish is probably the easiest (and safest) way to experiment with a new color, with lips coming in at second and eyes and cheeks at third. • Have fun! This is most important – your makeup works best when it matches your mood. So enjoy spring, and have a little fun experimenting while you’re at it. -Jennifer Morgan
Formulated without formaldehyde, parabens, DBP, or toluene, butter products have become the overnight hit of the nail industry. butter LONDON, Nail Lacquer in Slapper, $15.
Leave it to American Apparel to develop a line of nail polish devoted to neon. American Apparel, Neon Nail Polish, $6.
Imagine hair dye as easy as playing with chalk, and you’d have Kevin Murphy’s Color Bug. Known for his line of shampoos and conditioners, this Australian hairstylist has recently released a line of hair colors meant to applied on like chalk and rinsed off after use. Kevin Murphy, Color Bug in Pink, price varies.
These palettes offer a wide array of bright colors to play with. Use the colors one by one, or try an orange and red combo to create the “sunset” eye look that was seen all over the runways this season. Make Up For Ever, Technicolor Palette, $45, and Milani, Eyeshadow Palette in Paint, $8.
A cult classic. Nars, Eyeshadow Duo in Rated R, $35.
If nothing else, this bold yellow eyeliner makes a statement. Smudge it all over the lids to make it into a bright shadow. Dolce & Gabbana, The Eyeliner Crayon Intense in Lemon, $30.
When Nars released The Multiple, it developed cult status almost instantly. And it’s not hard to see why: used on the eyes, lips, cheeks, or elsewhere, this multitasker delivers a nice blend of color in easy-to-use packaging. Nars, The Multiple in Turks and Caicos, $39.
diybowtie necklace by April Zhang
YOU WILL NEED:
-cotton fabric of your choice -fabric scissors -needle & thread -jewelry chain -clasp -sewing machine (optional)
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1. Cut a rectangle and a strip - mine measured about 4”x2.5” and 1.5”x4”. 2. Fold the raw edges of the strip in and sew. 3. Fold the rectangle in half and sew along the dotted lines as shown, leaving an opening in the middle. 4. Trim the corners of the rectangle; avoid cutting the seams you’ve just sewn. 5. Flip right side out through the opening you left. 6. Sew the opening shut. 7. Pinch the middle and sew. 8. Wrap the strip around the pinched part, sew, and trim. 9. Cut two equal lengths of chain; sew each length on either side of the bow. 10. Attach a clasp and then rock your new bowtie necklace on the Main Green.
ENTERTAINMENT
M
Q&A with MILO & OTIS
ilo & Otis were hosted by Brown Unheard on April 18th, the Thursday before Spring Weekend, for a great show! They had quite a few Unheard student openers including The Shades of Brown, Gano Street Jumpers, Emma Ruddock, MJ Batson, Lizzie Davis, and Ben Freeman. Check out the show review at brownunheard.com. Before Milo & Otis go and get world famous, we saw them at Brown first! We were lucky enough to catch up with them while they were on the road and asked them a few questions. MJ: When did you start writing songs-- together and individually? MO: In high school in Baltimore, Otis had a rock band where he was the bassist and arranger. I started writing little songs in high school using Garage Band and the limited guitar chords I knew. As a team, we made a few one-offs during college, where Otis would send me an instrumental and I would d write on it. However, since then our process has developed significantly. Now we’re more deliberate in our composition choices, and we communicate every step of the way.
MJ: How did Milo & Otis come to be? What’s the story? MO: We met at an MPC workshop at Brown in 2007, and later realized we both shared an interest in music. After unsuccessfully attempting to start a musical project during our stint at Brown, we finally linked up four years later in Chicago as alumni. We put out a short EP sort of as an experiment, and it cemented our chemistry as a musical duo. The Chicago music scene really encouraged us to follow our sound wherever it would lead us. MJ: Speaking of following your sound, how would you define your musical style? MO: We classify our music as “adventure soul”. “Adventure” because the goal of our music is to take you somewhere. Our music has a transitive power. It’s “soul” because we use whatever ideas and influences speak to us, without confining ourselves to a specific style or genre. MJ: What’s happening in your near future? Where will Milo & Otis be going? How’s your tour? MO: The two things we’re doing right now are working out our summer show schedule by getting on some of the
bigger festivals. We’re also working on a new release for the end of this summer! We’re hunkering down in the studio to generate sounds. These Spring Weekend shows represent the end of touring behind “The Joy”, and we’re excited to introduce the next chapter of Milo & Otis’ sound to our fans--and to those who don’t even know us yet. MJ: What has been your favorite venue/performance to date? MO: We’ve had some pretty awesome shows, from sold out thousand-person crowds in Chicago, to countless open mics across the country, to DIY backyard farm venues right here in Providence. But our favorite has got to be our most recent Chicago show, which was at a tavern called Schuba’s. It was our biggest headlining show to date, and it was awesome to feel the energy in the room. It’s amazing to see all the love and support we’ve started to cultivate in Chicago. MJ: What do you do besides music? MO: Otis (aka Owen Hill) teaches math and chess to the under 18 crowd. When I’m not making music with O, I go by Jamila Woods and I teach poetry to high schoolers, write & perform my own poetry, and do freelance dramaturgy work at local theaters. I also run an arts venue out of my apartment along with fellow Brown grad Fatimah Asghar ‘11. MJ: What did you concentrate in at Brown? MO: Otis concentrated in Mathematics & Africana Studies. I did Theatre Arts and Performance Studies & Africana Studies. MJ: Speaking of Brown, how did you feel about the lineup for Spring Weekend this year? MO: It’s dope. Our only complaint was that we weren’t at Brown and couldn’t get tickets!
how Milo & Otis would define their style. MO: My style is very detail oriented. I wear a lot of black, both on stage and in my everyday wardrobe. I love black clothes because they accentuate my jewelry and head wraps and really make any other colors I wear stand out. I like to find one or two pieces, like a colorful top or patterned dress, and then build the rest of my outfit as a frame around that centerpiece.
MJ: What’s your favorite place on campus? MO: Otis used to stay chillin at the Gate and the OMAC. I’m gonna have to go with either the Friedman at the Sci Li, or the Main Green in warm weather.
Otis’ style is a lot about contrast. He likes to pair button ups & suspenders with jeans and a fly pair of kicks. He plays with color and text a lot, and wears a lot of bright graphic tees.
MJ: What do you miss most about Brown? MO: We both miss the constant brain stimulation that comes with being at Brown. We definitely miss Africana classes. And of course the parties!
MJ: Do you have any advice to give to students at Brown that are wanting to pursue music? MO: Follow your dreams! It sounds cliche but that is really what the past few years have been about for us. Define your goals early on, and know that it’s going to take a lot of time and hard work, but is there really anything else you would rather be doing? -MJ Batson
MJ: Brown is considered one of the most stylish schools in the country, Unhemmed readers would love to know
ENTERTAINMENT
INSIDE THE WARDROBE: THE GREAT GATSBY
O
ne of the most highly anticipated films this season is undoubtedly Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby. Set amidst the glamour and debauchery of the Roaring Twenties, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s story of a self-made millionaire is an American classic. Even today, the mere mention of the name Gatsby evokes images of lavish parties and the idealized pursuit of love. The novel remains one of the most frequently referenced works of literature, as the story of Daisy, Jay, and Nick is near and dear to readers worldwide. Needless to say, the pressure was on for Luhrmann as he worked to bring The Great Gatsby to the big screen. Starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan, the film hits theaters on May 10th, so it has yet to be determined if it will meet audience expectations. But if the publicity photos and trailers are any indication, the wardrobe department has definitely hit the bullseye. From flapper dresses to ornate headpieces, the costumes in The Great Gatsby capture the decadence of the 1920s. It’s all about beaded gowns, cloche hats, sparkling embellishments, and a whole lot of sequins and rhinestones. The glitz is unsurprising, considering that
this film comes from the mastermind behind such visually rich movies as Moulin Rouge and Australia. In fact, Baz Luhrmann used the same costume designer for The Great Gatsby as he did for the two aforementioned films: his wife Catherine Martin. Martin has received numerous accolades for her work in costume design and art direction, including two Academy Awards for Moulin Rouge. For The Great Gatsby, Martin spent hours researching photos, advertisements, catalogues, and real vintage items from the 1920s. She also collaborated with Brooks Brothers to create around 1,700 pieces for the male cast members and extras. This is particularly fitting, as Fitzgerald himself was known to sport Brooks Brothers suits, even hiring the company to tailor his army uniforms. “It was this most basic and fundamental connection that has made our collaboration so authentic,” Martin stated. “Brooks Brothers is mentioned several times in Fitzgerald’s writings as a representation of the ultimate gentleman’s purveyor of fine clothing to the American man of distinction.” Beyond the tailored suits and other dapper cos-
tumes sported by the men of The Great Gatsby, Martin worked relentlessly to create a stunning wardrobe for the women of the film. With embroidered headbands on bob haircuts, fur stoles over fringed shift dresses and a variety of elegant gloves, the film presents a visual explosion of Jazz Age styles. Martin enlisted the expertise of Miuccia Prada to design over 40 outfits, all drawing inspiration from older pieces by Miu Miu and vintage Prada. Tiffany & Co. provided the luxurious jewelry—another fitting choice, as Fitzgerald was a known customer. Although Carey Mulligan generally opts for understated red carpet looks with minimal accessories, she clearly embraced the extravagant aesthetic of the 1920s in her costumes as Daisy. This is further evident in the Vogue editorial that features the British actress in even more flapper couture. On the cover of the May 2013 issue, we see Mulligan in a gorgeous green gown by Oscar de la Renta, a silver cloche hat, and a lot of diamonds. Like the film itself, the Gatsby-inspired photoshoot is spectacular display of glamour and decadence. F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby may or may not have been required reading at your high school, but based on the first glimpses of the film, it’s fair to assert Baz Luhrmann’s cinematic adaptation of the novel should be required viewing for all. -Caroline Bologna
ENTERTAINMENT
WINTERFRESH
Q&A WITH CODY FITZGERALD OF STOLEN JARS
I
first met Cody Fitzgerald ‘15 in AP Physics during my junior year at Montclair High School. He soon became known for acing every test while pretty much everyone in the class failed at least one (if not more) during the course of the year. His quirky vintage style was comprised of a well-curated color palette and killer tie collection. One day Cody came to class selling CDs of his band, and thus I was introduced to the world of Stolen Jars. Now a sophomore at Brown, Cody is continuing his musical journey and has plans for a second album and more touring. I caught up with him recently to discuss his band, writing music, and the iPad commercial that featured one of his songs.
and wrote some things that were really bad (laughs). I was in a few bands in middle school. One of them, Screech Owls, was the first time I seriously started playing music. However, Stolen Jars was the first time I started writing my own songs.
DH: Where did your interest in music start? Did you have any formal training as a child? CF: I grew up listening to my parents playing their music, especially Elvis Costello. I love his song “Blue Chair.” As I grew older, I started getting into the Cranberries and eventually, like most people, went through a Beatles phase, going through every single album. I was taught piano as a child, but I did not keep with it, which is something I now regret. Around the age of nine, I learned how to play guitar
DH: Let’s talk a little about a certain song called “Driving.” Where did your idea for this song come from? It’s quite a complex piece and has a lot going on. CF: Well, as you can guess, I was driving home and listening to “The Predatory Wasp of the Palisades is Out to Get Us” by Sufjan Stevens. I was like “damn,” I want to make a song that has energy like this feeling. When I got home, I sat down for four to five hours and started with about ten riffs that converged into that song.
DH: Do lyrics or melody come first? CF: Definitely the music. I usually write the entire song in 40-second parts and then build on each part, eventually moving onto the next section. After I write the music I will begin the lyrics. Its difficult for me to write the lyrics before I know what the entire sound spectrum of the music will be.
DH: How did you find out that Apple used it in a commercial? How did it feel and how did those close to you react? CF: Well, I didn’t find out; that would have been illegal (laughs). They asked me. David Taylor, who is the guy that finds music for Apple commercials, and his partner Buzzy emailed me during my last year of high school. I initially thought the message was fake because it was basically one sentence and in all lowercase letters. He asked me to send him all my tracks, and then he called during the summer and said that they decided to use “Driving” for the ad. I said “alright” and had to make about ten versions of the song, including parts that were not originally in the final cut. I sent these in about 1-2 week intervals, but they eventually decided to use the original song and told me when it would air. I couldn’t tell anyone I was working on this at the time, so it was a weird period of two weeks when I couldn’t hang out with anyone. Since I knew when it would be on I made sure to record it and have people come over to watch. It was pretty weird to hear but awesome at the same time. My friends were confused but happy for me. Apparently it’s still playing abroad though. Now it’s very much in the past and isn’t really where my music is at anymore.
awesome too. I’m lucky to live in both of these places. Last year I didn’t have anyone to play shows with, but I have a great group now, with two Brown students and one from RISD. Here we can pretty much get as many shows as we want. Meeting other bands here has been great, and there’s definitely a more professional atmosphere. DH: How have you been promoting Stolen Jars and how important is that to you? CF: Well, we’re trying. We have a Facebook page. I post on it when there’s stuff to say, and the same goes with Twitter and Instagram. I try my best to do it, but I will try harder when there’s more material out. DH: How did you come up with the name Stolen Jars? CF: Great….(laughs). Hmm, I think Magdalena (band mate) and I were just sitting around trying to think of names one day, and I realized “stolen jars” reminds me of childhood. Not specifically about it, but just the feelings with it. I liked this image of going on the farm and seeing a jar of preserves on a windowsill and stealing it.
DH: You’ve hinted at how the older songs don’t sound like what is to come out next. Tell us a bit about the new DH: What is your favorite song off the first album? album. Does it have a name or release date? CF: That’s easy, they’re all really good, and I do believe that. CF: There’s no name yet. I’ve never had to name an album But “Stitches” (the first song I made) is just such a weird (the first was titled “Stolen Jars”), so I have to really think but wonderful song. It was the first, and probably last time, I about that (laughs). Hopefully it will be out by next winter, made anything like that. I didn’t know what I was doing, and maybe earlier, but that’s doubtful. I think it’s a lot more the time signature does not make any sense. It really doesn’t emotional, with a clearer mindset, which is something difsound like anything else out there. “Ransack” (the last song ferent for sure, but it’s very contained as well. It’s a lot of me I finished on the album), “Driving” (the last song I wrote), just exploring new sounds and being able to use different and maybe “Down to Dinner” are my other favorites. instruments than on the first album. There is going to be a lot more keyboard stuff, but it will still sound like me. DH: Has your creative process changed at all in coming from Montclair to Providence? DH: Describe your sound in one word. CF: The amount of work I got to put into my music last year CF: (Thinks long and hard)….Winterfresh. was very limited. I didn’t know how to fit it in yet. When I did get to work, I didn’t get to record whole songs, just small DH: Where do you see Stolen Jars ten years down the riffs, but when I went home for breaks I would work more. road? Over the summer I had about six to seven different riffs that CF: I mean, I am just hoping that more people will listen are the basis for the new album. I work in the same way now, to the stuff I am making now. All I want is for a wider audibut I am recording with better equipment. I am more careful ence to hear the music and for people to really care about about how everything sounds too. That’s changed a bit from it. I don’t know if that’s ten years or close, but I just want before, but the process is just as long and arduous as before. to constantly make it bigger. I don’t know if the new album It still takes forever to complete. will be used in an ad, but that’s not the point. When I started making music it was just for me to make it, and it still is. I am DH: How have you found the music scene here? Do you excited to have people listening to it though, because that’s get to play as many shows as back home? what its all about. - Dominik Halas CF: The music scene back home is awesome, and here it’s
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JENNIFER AVERY
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ALISON KIRSCH
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DAN ZHANG
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BRENDA ZHANG
JUSTINA LEE
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ALISON KIRSCH
DIANE ZHOU
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OLIVIA WATSON
JENNIFER AVERY
ALISON KIRSCH
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JUSTINA LEE
DIANE ZHOU
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ALISA BERG
ALISA BERG
BRENDA ZHANG
JUSTINA LEE
ALISA BERG
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DANDIES ON DISPLAY AT RISD by Chelsea English and Anisa Khanmohamed
Doran Wittelsbach, San Francisco, 2009. Photo by Rose Callahan
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n April 28th, the RISD Museum opened Artist Rebel Dandy: Men of Fashion, an exhibition that chronicles the historical and contemporary figure of the dandy, while displaying the complexity of defining what a ‘dandy’ is. It was inspired by Richard Merkin (1938-2009), a RISD Painting MFA who graduated in ’63 and who also served on the faculty from then until 2005. In addition to being an accomplished artist and professor, Merkin embodied the figure of the ‘professional dandy’. The show provides a chronological exposition of the dandy, beginning with Beau Brummell(1778-1840), a trend-setter in Regency England, often credited as the founder of dandyism. Beau Brummel
Richard Merkin, from the New York Times
ART
ART These 19th century English caricatures show the general opinion at the time that the dandy was a man overly invested in frivolity and keeping up appearances.
At the same time, in France, writers like Charles Baudelaire and Honoré de Balzac celebrated the role of the dandy as one of artist-activist, as a male figure who subverted the status quo through the ways in which he expressed himself on an everyday basis.
A contemporary example of Baudelaire’s revolutionary dandy can be found in Bacongo, a neighborhood in Brazzavile, Republic of Congo. They call themselves Sapeurs as members of Societé des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élegantés, and view their mode of sartorial expression as a way to rise above imperialism and the various conflicts that have damaged the region’s economy throughout its history. Interestingly, their style has also influenced western designers and artists such as Solange.
Dandyism also facilitates a dialogue between European and East Asian designers. This is illustrated in this three piece suit by United Arrows, which utilizes a fabric designed by Sanrio Hello Kitty in collaboration with Liberty of London. This union is made especially clear considering Hello Kitty’s literal presence in London. In contrast to the typical view of the dandy as being elusive, this displays a coherent depiction of interaction.
Although dandies are historically male, the exhibition also addresses the ways in which certain women have embraced this look to express a form of androgyny. This is Patti Smith, who was influenced by Baudelaire’s definition of a dandy,.
You might not expect to see Andy Warhol at an exhibition focused on dandies, but he is united with the dandy movement considering he also fundamentally opposes main stream culture through his personal style. Featured here are Ferragamo reproductions of the shoes he wore while in his studio, even including the paint splatters, and a portrait of the artist by Yousuf Karsh. The exhibit also features his wig, and explains how it relates to his personal expression.
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behind the scen ANNIE &
photos by Sally Luu
nes: & CONNIE’S BAKERY A
nnie and Connie Wu are tennis-hitting partners that compliment each other perfectly. Annie is right-handed and Connie is left-handed. Their wisdom teeth are total opposites, their eye prescriptions are the same (except reversed for each eye), and their “squinty” eyes are even different. The 22-year-old twins do, however, share two static qualities – their passion for baking and health. Graduating a semester early (Brown University class of 2013), the California born twins created “Annie and Connie’s Bakery” before heading off to Alpert Medical School in the fall of 2013. Both PLMEs, Annie and Connie always knew they wanted to pursue careers as doctors. During their semester off, however, they wanted to do something different: why not start a bakery?! It started off as a crazy idea suggested by a friend, but the bakers decided to run with it. “Why don’t we start by making a logo” quickly turned into “what is the best way to structure our business?” The student-run bakery supports local charities and student groups by donating 80 to 100 percent of the profits. Because they use fresh ingredients, free-range eggs, no artificial flavorings and quality almond flour, their expenses are pretty high. The donation, in return, usually comes out to around $100 per bake sale after accounting for their expenses (equating to about 50 to 90 cents per macaron). Selling for $2 each, or 3 for $5, their colorful treats might be seen in the lobby of J. Walter Wilson or anywhere throughout Providence and beyond. “It’s one way to sort of give back to the Brown community while doing something we love, integrating our
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“Everyone needs a little treat once in a while.”
passion for baking,” said Connie, a human biology brain and behavior concentrator. “[It’s] the best way to make a difference.” With an Excel spreadsheet of over 50 macaron flavors and a repertoire ranging from special cakes to mochi, Annie and Connie’s Bakery also accepts special orders. “Some people ask for special orders for things not even on the website,” said Annie. When introduced to a cooking class in middle school, the twins learned how to make things like breakfast burritos, chocolate ice cream, and the classic chocolate chip cookie. “The class introduced us to butter, basically. Then, we discovered the Food Network and then food blogs, which started to get really big in high school,” said Connie. “We started our first food blog in high school called ‘Artful Food.’ It’s funny because I started off interested in making more healthy desserts but then later realized how awesome unhealthy food is.” The twins later acquired their skills through friends, Youtube, and BuDS (Brown University Dining Services). “The macarons I learned from my friend YanQiang. He’s from Singapore but he actually went to “Le Cordon Bleu,” a famous cooking cuisine school based in Paris,” said Connie. “It was a lot harder than I thought. You think it’s easy, but there’s definitely a lot of technique involved.” With over 23 bake sales this spring semester, the twins continue to bake. Their favorite parts about baking are trying new recipes, inventing their own recipes, and creating new flavor combinations. “I think that’s the most exciting part because doing the same thing, you know, that’s cool and all, but when you try something new and it
meets your expectations, it’s really cool,” said Connie. Discovering the love for making macarons, Annie’s picked up some lessons along the way: “Don’t give up. It’s not impossible. You should just try.” Besides baking, the twins have another passion. “Caring for someone’s health is one of the best things. It’s definitely a rewarding job and I want to be the person who does that,” said Annie, a biology concentrator. While the baking duo currently has more experience with baking than with medicine, one might seem to outweigh the other: “we have a strong passion for health and for promoting good health to those around us,” said the twins. “We are also very interested in the human body and the field of medicine as a profession for better understanding human health and disease.” Though the battle between baking and health are constantly at work, the twins have an optimistic outlook about the future for Annie and Connie’s Bakery. “I think if you love something this much, it’s not going to go away, even if you do have a career in medicine,” said Annie. “I think if we’re not baking for a career, we’ll be baking for fun, at least. Who knows where that can take us in the future.” While at times, the kitchen has its frustrations that include cleaning up piles of dirty dishes and the occasional unmet expectations, the cheerful twins say they love it just as much as eating. Wearing bright smiles and cheerful attitudes, it is safe to say that the twins will continue to bake their delicious and creative takes on pastry deserts. As the twins would say: “Everyone needs a little treat once in a while.” Get a taste of heaven and visit their website for more information: www.annconnbakery.com - Sally Luu
THAT GUY
PAULTRAN photos and interview by MJ Batson
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remember my first encounter with Paul Tran ‘14. I was sitting in the audience of an orientation open mic in List 120 that a friend had decided to play. After seeing various students sing covers, I was delighted to have a poetic break with Paul. Though I didn’t know the words he would be pouring over the crowd that night, but I was pleasantly surprised. His poem was real. It was raw. And it was all his. The past couple of years, I hadn’t seen Paul perform again but luckily, we finally met in our Poetry in Service to the Community course this semester. Each time he read a poem I thought “there’s no way he wrote that in five minutes,” but he did. Recently, Paul competed nationally on behalf of Brown and my respect for his words and notice of his style brought him to the pages of Unhemmed. MJ: How would you define your style? PT: My style is deadly. To some it is visually assaulting. To others it is simply a joke. However, I see my style as performance. It is a process by which I remove the audience from their world and imprison them in mine. And for the briefest moment, they are forced to obey and reckon with my rules, my frameworks for knowing, my making and unmaking of things. MJ: What is your favorite article of clothing and why? PT: My high school gym t-shirt. Every time I wear it I think about where I come from, how I got to Brown, and where I am trying to go with my life. I went to a high school at the University of California, San Diego. Black and Latino professors united and designed the school for low-income, first-generation
college students. It was their response to the destruction of affirmative action policies in California. And for me, it was the opportunity to change the course of my entire life. MJ: I happen to know you as a poet. What is something people may not know about you? PT: I used to build robots. Perhaps that’s not entirely true. I never actually built “the robot.” But I was part of my high school’s robotics team, which participated in the national FIRST Robotics Competition (FRC). FRC emphasized both the cultivation of young engineers and scientists as well as activists who used science and technology to reimagine their communities. To that end, I facilitated a myriad of grassroots projects and collaborated with key local officials to pass legislation that revitalized STEM curriculums in San Diego’s public schools. MJ: Speaking of being a poet, I heard you did exceptionally well in a recent competition. What was it and how’d it go? PT: I recently won “Best Poet” at the national College Unions Poetry Slam Invitational (CUPSI), a 3-day competition held at Barnard College in New York City. Almost 60 schools and 300 poets from around the country competed. This is the first time a poet from Brown has received individual recognition at CUPSI since Jamila Woods ‘11 won “Best Female Poet” in 2010. Our team also brought home “Pushing the Art Forward” for the third time. It’s an award celebrating writing and performance that moves beyond the fathomable boundaries of spoken word and successfully pioneers something new. “Pushing the Art Forward” was actually created specifically to
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honor Brown in 2010. So it was a huge affirmation to our team that the CUPSI community voted our work as still being on the cutting edge of things. And for me, it was personally enriching to put my art on a national stage for the first time. Although I went last year, I didn’t feel my truest voice was represented in the work I offered. This year, I was able to work closely with the team to put up performances that dealt critically with the convergence of history, trauma, racism, violence, ghosts, and imperialism. And that, above all, meant the most to me. MJ: How long have you been writing poetry? PT: I started writing poetry during my first semester at Brown. I saw Jamila Woods ‘11 and Franny Choi ‘11 perform during TWTP and endeavored to be as fly as them. Of course that can never happen. They are the flyest and the epitome of fly. But in my diligence and steady growth, I hope that, like them, I can say important things with my art. MJ: Do you plan on writing a book of poems? If not, what are your poetic plans? PT: I hope to publish a book of poems one day. Not sure when, though. I’m currently working on a manuscript titled, “The Ghosts In Between.” It is dedicated to those in my family who passed away during the American war in Vietnam, as well as the millions and millions of Vietnamese people killed during the war and its consequential diaspora. I’ve been preoccupied with notions of “ghosts” my whole life. I read somewhere that “America is a land without ghosts.” And with that as
my inspiration, I’m compelled to exhume the dead, to find what moves in the margins, and in my poetry, discover what, if anything, they have to say about the world. MJ: Who is your favorite poet? Poem? PT: Patricia Smith and her now-notorious poem, “Skinhead.” Although I became exposed to her later in my journey, Patricia Smith epitomizes the artist I hope to become. We both approach the realm of possibilities through persona poems or pieces in which we assume another narrator’s point of view. The narrator could be a person. It could also be a chair, a window, or simply a tree. In “Skinhead,” Smith enunciates the United States’ long legacy of white supremacy through the perspective of a white man. She shows us this man’s investments in institutional racism and the advancement of racial segregation. It is at once exquisite and terrible, watching someone else emerge from her body and seeing the multiple forces which shape him displayed matter-of-factly. That is what I try to do in my work: to present the stories of non-state actors typically omitted from memory and history. And in doing so, I attempt to produce new understandings about the people around me and their operations. MJ: If you could fill your closet with any designer who would it be? PT: I am a fan of Alexander McQueen, Jason Wu, Diane von Furstenberg, Anna Sui, Alexander Wang, Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, and an array of emerging designers of color. Certainly many of these folks design exclusively women’s wear. But #whatevah. I ain’t
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mad about it. I enjoy reimagining the intended functions of things and incorporating them into my life. To quote the effervescent Rhi-Rhi: “It ain’t nothing but a hairflip and two snaps.” MJ: Tell us about the outfits you chose to wear for our shoot today? PT: I come from two extremes: minimalism and assemblage. My minimal all-black represents what I feel comfortable in day-to-day. It is a simple canvas. And for that reason I try to find special pieces, like the high-waist tuxedo pant, which adds an edginess or romance to the performance. My assemblage, however, draws on bold colors, prints, textures, and gender-fucking pieces. The long pink coat, the silver silk button up, Monet-leggings, gold platform heels, and the Vietnamese straw hat, which I got as a gift from my BWRFC sistah, Thuy-Mai Vu Nguyen ‘12, offer many ideas and possibilities. Indeed, they say a thing or two about who I am and what I deeply care about. But these aren’t things folks can discern. I hope, therefore, that what I wear and how I present myself spark conversation. And through that, something entirely unthinkable is illuminated. MJ: What are your plans for the immediate future? Creative and otherwise? PT: I am planning to attend graduate school after Brown. For the past three years, I’ve been working on a research project in the history department with professors Naoko
Shibusawa and Francoise Hamlin. My project investigates the history of Third World Centers and the Third World student liberation movement during the Cold War. With a Ph.D. in American Studies, I hope to become a university professor and produce new knowledge on people of color’s histories, expressions, and insurgent knowledge formations. MJ: How has your background/life before brown affect your poetry? Style? PT: I grew up in a refugee family. My mom came to the United States in 1989. She was a refugee from Vietnam, having spent nearly a decade fleeing from and imprisoned by the communist regime. When my dad, who was an alcoholic and drug addict, left us for real in 1999, my mom took on three jobs. She worked at a tailoring shop, a dry cleaners, and an apron factory. In these capacities, fashion and the art of alterations existed in our home. I learned the politics of labor and race from watching my mom work. I also witnessed the resistance and daily transgressions she championed. And surely these experiences combined to shape my poetry and style. In both my writing and wardrobe, I enjoy taking things thrown away and recasting them in a new form. I’m determined to make people notice, to gouge their eyes and deliberately plant their tortured retinas before what absolutely must be paid attention to. And to let them know: It cannot be unseen. You cannot unlearn this. Go do something about it.
HARMONIC MOTION
Editor: Sally Luu Photographer: Dan Zhang Featuring: Will Barbosa, Brown ‘14 Kevin Cassidy, RISD ‘12 Emma Chasen, Brown ‘14 Sophia Diaz, Brown ‘14 Paula Dixon, Brown ‘13 Joel Kang, Brown ‘13 Jarrett Key, Brown ‘13 Jon Key, RISD ‘13 Kat Lee, Brown ‘13 Brigham Madden-Cox, Brown ‘14 Will Mayner, Brown ‘13 Jake Moffett, Brown ‘15 Hallie Morrison, RISD ‘14 Hannah Nauen, Brown ‘14 Andreas Nicholas, RISD ‘13 Khia Poitier, RISD ‘14 Tate Sager, RISD ‘15 Evan Silver, Brown ‘16 Katy Strutz, RISD ‘15 Tom Sullivan, Brown ‘15 Marion Wellington, Brown ‘16 Ellen Zahniser, Brown ‘14 Matteo Ziff, Brown ‘14
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f you don’t already know - and why don’t you? - Harmonic Motion (otherwise known as Harmo) is the hottest co-ed a capella group on College Hill. Comprised of talented divas that seem to stem from Beyoncé’s womb (some more than others), the group specializes in contemporary music ranging from pop to R&B. Aside from being able to sing their hearts out, they can put on a hell of a show. This Brown-RISD a capella group is sassy in all the right ways and always dressed to impress. In fur coats, fitted blazers, black lipstick, and trendy beanies, this group might as well be on the runway. Call them youthfully sophisticated, if you will. While these trendsetters love to put on a great show, having fun is a must. A night with this feisty group? Not sure if you can handle it. Between cigarette breaks and wine in coffee cups (yeah, I knew what you were doing!), this attractive bunch also works incredibly hard. The group arranges their own songs and rehearses at least three days a week. This passionate, tight-knit group puts 110% into whatever they do. The work and dedication put into Harmo is bursting at the seams. Can’t get enough? Check them out at their Spring Concert. Harmonic Motion will be debuting new songs as well as new members on Saturday, May 4th at 8:30 p.m. in Lower Salomon. In addition to the fabulous show I know they will be performing, Harmo will be releasing their 4th CD, MISCONDUCT, during senior week. -Sally Luu
FRESH FACES EDITOR: LILIANA SYKES PHOTOGRAPHER: INGRID CHEN MODELS: ESSIE QUAKYI, NATI HYOJIN KIM, SARAH GAGE ALL JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES COURTESY OF NAVA
TAKE IVY, TAKE TWO W
hen Ivy League style -- preppy, good quality staples -- swept Japan, photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida flew to America to get first hand inspiration from the men living the fad. Originally published in 1965 in Japan, Take Ivy was street style before street style existed. Visiting the eight Ivies, Hayashida set out to capture Ivy Leaguers in their natural habitats: lush green quads, ivy strewn walls, and airy libraries. Of course, the style then was a little different: when Hayashida was here, a shirt and tie was required to eat in the Sharpe Refectory, where students were served a sit-down meal by waiters. The original copies sold out quite quickly during the first release, and an original has gone for $1,500 on eBay. Thanks to the resurgence of preppy style in America, Take Ivy was rereleased in 2010, to the same acclaim and demand as in 1965. Content unchanged, Take Ivy contains delightfully archaic captions to accompany its photos. One reads, “Ivy Leaguers frown upon students who earn good grades but have pale skin from spending too much time inside.” With the return of this ivy style to the mainstream, we acknowledge that although the times have changed, the past is both behind and ahead of us. The menswear staff at Unhemmed sought to recreate some of the iconic photos in Take Ivy with a mix of vintage and modern clothing, updating the timeless looks for today’s Ivy Leaguer.
Editors: Dominik Halas, Sophie Blistein Photographer: Joshua Espinoza Models: Jesse Hartheimer, Charles Hemsley, Jaemun Park
BOHEMIAN SPRING
editor: Samantha Rose photographer: MJ Batson model: Jackie Phillips
photos by MJ Batson
Unhemmed says goodbye to
APRIL & MJ
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or their final issue of Unhemmed, I was lucky enough to sit down for an interview with the magazine’s co-founders, and my close friends, April Zhang and MJ Batson. We talked about the struggles they faced in creating the first fashion magazine at Brown, how rewarding the process has been, and what we can see them doing in the future.
MB:How did you two first meet? MJ: I was in our mutual friend’s room in Keeney, and April was on the floor doing math homework with him….it was love at first sight, and we’ve been together ever since! April & MJ: We were soulmates! MB: What inspired you to start Unhemmed? MJ: I was getting into fashion around sophomore year, and April was just like, “Hey MJ, let’s start a magazine.” April: It took us a while to get started...I was sophomore slumping it, and there was nothing fashion-related at Brown, so my friend was like, “Why don’t you just start something yourself?” And I thought about who I should start it with, and I immediately thought of MJ – so I messaged her and she was super excited about it.
“I hope that Unhemmed becomes more than what we imagined it would be.” - MJ MB: What challenges did you face in founding a fashion magazine at Brown? April: Well, there was a lot of interest, but… MJ: People say they really want to do something, but then don’t follow through...which is a problem, I feel, with most student groups at Brown. April: So then it was just a lot of us doing everything. MJ: April and I are busy folks and we like to do everything ourselves, by nature, so it was hard balancing Unhemmed with everything else. April: In the real world, people do this for a living, but we have classes and other extracurriculars. MB: What’s been the most rewarding aspect of Unhemmed? April: Out of everything I’ve done at Brown, Unhemmed is definitely the thing that I valued the most, over classes and work and other extracurriculars. Unhemmed was always the most important becaue it was our baby. MJ: Having people be really excited about it is also great. MB: What’s your funniest Unhemmed memory? MJ: Every encounter with Rachel Watson (Unhemmed’s outgoing layout designer). April: All-nighters in the Sci-Li doing layout with Rachel….also, any time we spend on photoshoots is so much fun. My favorite was the Salvation Armani shoot from this past October - we LOVE Alex Sammon and he knows it,
you can publish that. We also had a lot of fun at the graveyard shoot last December. MJ: It was such a trek, it was fun to get off campus and go on an adventure. April: Back in the day, our photoshoots would literally take the whole day, because we weren’t organized beforehand. We would have an idea of the style we wanted, but we would just tell everyone to bring clothes and that anyone could come show up to model. So we would have to style the models on the spot! MJ: The models are always great to work with.
“Unhemmed was always the most important because it was our baby.” - April MB: What’s your hope for Unhemmed in the future? April: That by the time MJ and I are rich, it still exists so we can give tons of money to it. MJ: Ha! But actually, our goal is for it to grow past whatever we thought it could be. April: We have goals of being in print, for example. MB: Now, let’s get personal! How would you describe your personal fashion? April: MJ and I are so different in every single way... MJ: Except we’re both awesome! April: I dress in lots of colors…it’s pretty obvious. I love sequins, polka dots, leopard print, lots of color blocking and pattern blocking – and all year round. I don’t believe in “winter” colors. Bright colors are year round. MJ: I like to wear flowy things and combat boots. I don’t know, it depends on the day, really. I love bohemian everything and I wear a lot of black. But I like patterns as well. It just depends on the day. Some days I’m really girly, some days I dress like a hobo.
“I’m proud to have been a part of filling a void at Brown and doing it with such great people.” -MJ MB: Who are your style icons? April: I more look at street style, but I have a few people, like Anna Dello Russo. Pretty much anyone that wears whatever the fuck they want and doesn’t apologize for it is a style icon to me.
MJ: I don’t really have any…I have designers I would aspire to wear, but that I can’t afford.
“I hope that by the time MJ and I are rich, Unhemmed still exists so we can give tons of money to it.” - April
MB: What are your plans post-graduation? How can we see y’all conquering the world? April: Well, my immediate plans are going home for the summer to chill and work. Then I’m going to China from September to May, I don’t know what I’m doing there, but I just want to explore. And then I’m going to move to New York next June-ish. I want to work in something related
to fashion, but I’m really turned off by the industry….I think MJ and I are pretty entrepreneurial, I can see us both starting something. MJ: I’m gonna graduate and stick around here for the summer, go home and try and record some songs, work on this mural for a public art thing, and then, I don’t know. I would hope to get a job where I still get to do what I love (i.e. taking photos, dealing with music, organizing things) – I want to do public art installations and events with art and music intertwined. As long as it’s creatively inspired, I’m good. I want to own a bunch of businesses one day as well. April: I would love to live in an apartment in Brooklyn -MJ: with MJ!! April: ...and make jewelry and sell it at craft fairs. If I could live off that, my life would be complete. -Marissa Bergman
UNHEMMED