DINING AT THE GRAIN

Interview with Victor Borg, Chef at Grain

Walking down Merchants Street in Valletta, a few doors down from Is-Suq tal-Belt you will come across the first 5 star luxury hotel in Valletta, Rosselli. The hotel is amazing and is certainly a new feather in the hat of the AX Group. Built in the first decades of the 1600’s Casa Rosselli-Massa is a clear example of a transitional building, incorporating the classical lines of Renaissance architecture and the more florid early Baroque styles. Moreover, Rosselli today hosts one of Malta’s best examples of local food excellence, Grain.

Grain is a conglomeration of four concepts namely; Street, Over, Under and Private. Although different, all concepts concur in their sense of good food set in an environment which immediately gives you that feel of class and lavishness with a deep attention to detail which you will only come across in leading eateries across the globe such as Eleven Radisson Park, Mugaritz or Maison Troisgros. Every concept is a statement where gastronomy is taken to a different dimension.

Steet Grain offers a casual dining experience with small plates to share and with no set rules. Indeed, at Street Grain, there are no set starters or main courses so as to encourage guests to try and share different dishes without giving too much importance to a specific sequence. The menu offers an interesting selection of options which include snacks such as chicken and ham hock fritter, mustard and tarragon mayo or Cantabrian anchovies, ricotta with extra virgin olive oil. The menu also offers a selection of share or not to share items such as veal tonnato, bottarga and beef yakitori, satay glaze, onion garni. All dishes can be accompanied by a good selection of sides. The dessert menu is not to be taken lightly at all. The range includes the classic tiramisu up to more intricate options such as their red plum frangipane tart, crème fraiche.

Food is accompanied by an impressive selection of wines all available by the glass. This is one major strength of the outlet which makes it stand out of the crowd. Indeed, it offers the outlet the possibility to be more creative with food and wine pairings. It also offers the unique possibility to compare and contrast different wines. It also gives guests the opportunity to be more adventurous in the way they approach lunch or dinner at Grain.

On the other hand Under Grain is a less casual experience than the one offered by its upstairs sister, Street Grain. To put it in in Ramona Depares’ words, Under Grain is, “the kind of place where you can say you will enjoy an elevated level of cuisine, but without the approach being too stuffy. The place is efficient, and paving the way for me to have some

Gastronomy is my occupation, my passion and my hobby all rolled into one.

fun and unleash my inner Picasso on a probably bemused kitchen brigade.” The menu includes very interesting combinations which entice the taste buds of any food enthusiast such as Acquerello risotto, smoked eel, snails and persillade to start with and Confit wild sea bass, sweet and sour pork crust, cauliflower miso purée, soya emulsion or BBQ rump of milk-fed veal, pickled clams, courgette purée, bagna cauda and vin jaune to follow. For all those who wish to finish off the meal with a pleasant sweet taste, they are spoilt for choice by an impressive selection of desserts such as Yoghurt Bavarois juniper berry meringue, warm pistachio and extra virgin olive oil cake or Warm chocolate mousse, ginger ice cream, honeycomb. Defining this menu as exquisite and divine is simply an understatement!

With a breathtaking view and a relaxed, informal atmosphere, our rooftop is an ideal space for various events and functions that want to be held in Valletta.

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Over Grain offers endless possibilities to entertain guests in a variety of ways, yet remaining unique due to its location and setup.

The author of this amazing celebration of food is Chef Victor Borg. Chef Borg is no stranger to the local food scene. He is a pure example of local food excellence. His vanguard approach and undisputed flair has amazed all those who had the opportunity to taste his food. His curriculum is impressive with stints in leading local eateries as well as top Michelin-rated restaurants in Europe.

His work is a game of precision where every ingredient has a specific role and contributes to

an impressive final product. Every dish spells out his depth in the industry and his undisputed talent. Curious, romantic and with a deep desire to constantly celebrate food. Innovate and an undisputed skill to surprise his guests. A leader in the kitchen and impressively creative audacious, a craftsman, and a real artist. His work is simply playful, illogical, audacious yet never at the cost of ensuring that sense of simplicity which has often been forgotten in time.

Indeed, food means so much to him. Victor proudly notes that his motto is; “Food glorious food! What is there more handsome?” At work and in his spare time, Victor celebrates food. “My favourite

holiday destination is London and any Michelinrated restaurant around the world. Gastronomy is my occupation, my passion and my hobby all rolled into one. Whenever I’m away, you can rest assured that I will be having lunch and dinner at top restaurants. This serves as my pleasure and amusement as well as inspiration.”

The person he admires most is Gordon Ramsay, the world renowned chef famous for his culinary genius and bad temper. A chance meeting with Gordon Ramsay ended up with Victor working in Gordon’s Aubergine Restaurant when it already enjoyed a one Michelin star. During his stay there, it was awarded its second. “This experience was to mark me in my quest for professional fulfilment.”

Victor now impresses clients with his magical hands at the Grain. Every idea, every concept, every dish there at Grain is a reflection of his amazing culinary skills.

Grain is certainly worth a try. The place is indeed a clear proof of Malta’s gastronomic excellence.