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A Taste of Asia Minor in Thessaloniki
Exploring the history and cultural significance of patsas soup and its deep connection to the Asia Minor refugee community.
by Vryoni Stavroula
In the early 20th century, the city of Thessaloniki witnessed a significant influx of refugees escaping the aftermath of the Greco-Turkish War and the subsequent population exchange between Greece and Turkey. Many of these refugees came from Asia Minor, carrying with them their traditions, culinary practices, and, of course, their love for tripe soup or “Patsas” as it is commonly known. In this article, we delve into the history of patsas soup, exploring its deep-rooted connection to the Asia Minor refugee community.
Patsas is a soup made from the stomach, feet, and intestines of cows or sheep
Kyriakos Tzortzis, my great-grandfather, hailing from the small village of Kasteli in Asia Minor, arrived in Greece in 1924. After several years of working various jobs, he and his brother Vangelis made their way to Thessaloniki around 1932. It was there that they opened their patsas soup store, named “Attiko’’ of which they remained the owners until their death. They were just one of many Asia Minor refugee-owned patsas soup establishments that dotted the city’s culinary landscape.
But what exactly is patsas? This soup is made from the stomach, feet, and intestines of cows or sheeps. In Greece, cows are more commonly used, while in Turkey, it is typically made with sheep. Although tracing the exact origins of patsas is challenging, it is believed to have its roots in the East.
It was the Asia Minor refugees that settled in Thessaloniki that opened the first tavernas serving exclusively patsas soup
One prevailing theory, as mentioned in Lena Kalaitzi-Oflidi’s book “The Patsatzidika of the East in Thessaloniki of the West,” suggests that patsas was a dish traditionally consumed by Muslim nomads the day after a wedding. It served as a way to utilize the animal parts that were not suitable for a wedding feast. Furthermore, patsas is said to have various health benefits and soothing properties, making it an ideal choice for those nursing a hangover after a night of revelry or for workers seeking nourishment before an early morning shift.
It was the Asia Minor refugees that settled in Thessaloniki that opened the first tavernas serving exclusively patsas soup. Before the establishment of dedicated patsatzidika in Thessaloniki, patsas was served in the inns located outside the city. However, the Asia Minor refugees that settled in Thessaloniki were the ones to open the first tavernas serving exclusively patsas soup, to which they added their unique touch, turning it into a culinary emblem of their identity.
Most of them had learned the craft of patsas making while working in patsas soup establishments in Istanbul, before they were forced to leave. For the Asia Minor refugees, tripe soup became a way to preserve their cultural heritage and maintain a sense of belonging. The soup served as a reminder of the land they had left behind, a taste of their homeland. Patsas served as a cultural bridge between the Asia Minor refugees and the local population.
Patsas served as a cultural bridge between the Asia Minor refugees and the local population
Initially, the primary patrons of the patsatzidika were fellow refugees who found comfort in the familiar flavors of patsas. Many of them were employed as tobacco workers and dockworkers, relying on patsas for sustenance before or after long shifts. Patsas not only nourished their bodies but also served as a catalyst for fostering warmer relations between the refugee community and the locals of Thessaloniki. As time passed, the tradition of patsas gradually transcended its origins and permeated the wider culture of Thessaloniki. Through the working-class population, the consumption of patsas became more widespread, evolving to a cherished culinary tradition embraced by locals of all backgrounds. The unique blend of flavors, the tender texture of the tripe, and the aromatic spices captivated the taste buds of Thessalonians, solidifying patsas as an integral part of the city’s gastronomic identity.
The legacy of patsas and the enduring influence of the Asia Minor community remained etched in the fabric of Thessaloniki’s culinary heritage
Beyond its culinary significance, patsas served as a cultural bridge between the Asia Minor refugees and the local population. Through the shared enjoyment of this comforting soup, bonds were formed, prejudices were shattered, and understanding grew. Patsas, with its roots in the East and its adaptation in Thessaloniki, exemplifies the power of food to unite communities and bridge cultural divides.
The legacy of patsas and the enduring influence of the Asia Minor community remained etched in the fabric of Thessaloniki’s culinary heritage. In the mid-1980s, the patsas landscape underwent a transformation. Rising costs and changing regulations led the owners to diversify their menus, serving not only patsas but also other dishes. This shift marked the end of the exclusive patsas soup stores era. Nevertheless, the legacy of patsas and the enduring influence of the Asia Minor community remained etched in the fabric of Thessaloniki’s culinary heritage. Today, this soup continues to be widely enjoyed in Thessaloniki, with numerous patsas soup stores serving this iconic dish. These establishments not only carry on the legacy of the Asia Minor refugees but also serve as a testament to their resilience and contribution to the city’s cultural tapestry.
