Lesson 01: The Paige Blouse Sizes: XS-XXL
Learning Objectives -Sew a set-in sleeve -Keyhole -Side slit -Mitered Corner -Button loop
-Sewing a shank button -Neckline binding -Double fold hem
Welcome to University Sew! Thank you so much for purchasing the Paige Blouse pattern. It is our mission to empower and equip individuals with the gift of being able to create beautiful and original garments, no matter their skill level. Our priority is that each customer not only creates a completed, correctly sewn garment but they understand each step and the purpose of each step. Your course materials include this E-Textbook which has extremely easy to follow, step by step sewing instructions with full color photos of each step. Additionally, each pattern has a Sew Along Video Tutorial that you can find for free on YouTube. Also, be sure to print out the Sewing Process Outline. It has the sewing steps, so that you can check off each step as you finish sewing it. It is truly our desire to teach everyone the craft of sewing! How to Use this E-Textbook (special notes) : - In this guidebook, the blouse is made in plain, unbleached cotton fabric (muslin) and is sewn with red thread. This is so you can see the sewing steps clearly!
- Also, in this guidebook, all the seam allowances are ½” (half of an inch), unless other wise noted. On your home sewing machine it is the line directly before the ⅝” line. Also, you may want to print out specific parts of this textbook and insert them into a binder where you can keep track of your learning! And if you have limited sewing experience, before you start you may want to check out the Helpful Resources section of this book. It has additional articles and videos that may help.
TABLE OF Contents 01
How to Print Instructions
08
Suggested Yardage, Fabric and Sizing
09
Supply List
10
Pattern Pieces
11
Helpful Resources
13
Fabric Layout
16
Sewing Process Instructions Keyhole. . . . . . . . . . .17 Ties. . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Hem. . . . . . . . . . . . . 27, 33 Mitered Corner. . . . 29 Side Slit. . . . . . . . . . 26, 38 Set-In Sleeves. . . . . .46 Neckline Binding. . . 55 Button Loop. . . . . . . 61 Button. . . . . . . . . . . .65
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Other Garment Options from Pattern
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Glossary
How To Print Instructions How to change settings for A4 printing:
(Very Important!! If printing settings are wrong the fit of the blouse will be altered.)
For PC: 1. Go to “Settings”. Then click “Devices”.
2. From there click “Printer & Scanners”. Then select the printer that you will be using.
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3. Once you select the printer you will be using, click “Printing Preferences”.
4. A dialog box will appear. Make sure to change the Printer Paper Size to A4. The click “Apply”.
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How to change settings for A4 printing: For Mac: 1. Go to “Settings” at bottom. Then click “Printers & Scanners”.
2. Go to “Default paper size” and select A4.
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Changing printing settings when viewing PDF file on Mac : 3. Go to “File” and select “Print”.
4. From the dialog box, make sure that under Paper Size that A4 is selected. And select “Scale” and type in 100. Then click “Print”.
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Changing printing settings when viewing PDF file in Adobe Reader : (Preferred) I also like to change the print settings in the program that I am viewing the pdf pattern file in. I have found that Adobe Reader is the best pdf reader for printing digital patterns. You can download it for free on the Adobe website. 5. Open up the A4 pattern in the size you desire. And click on the printer icon.
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6. A dialog box will appear. Make sure that under the“Page Size & Handling” section, “Actual Size” is marked. Next, click “Page Setup” in the bottom corner.
7. A new dialog box will appear. Make sure that under the section, “Paper” that the size is changed to A4. Then click “OK”. Finally you are ready to print! Click “Print”. Enjoy!
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How To Know If You Printed It Correctly: When you print the pdf of the digital pattern (A4) on page 3, there is a square. Measure the square, if it measures EXACTLY 2 inches by 2 inches the pattern is perfect!
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Untied
Front
Back
Suggested Fabrics: Crepe, Crepe De Chine,
Rayon Challis, Cotton blends, Linen blends,
Chambray, Lawn.
Yardage Needed: 60” Wide- 2½ yards 45” Wide- 3¼ yards
Size Chart Measurements in Inches
Blouse in Crepe De Chine
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Supplies and Notions: Fabric Hand Needle Thread Shank Button Very Small Safety Pin Steam Iron Chalk for marking notches
Optional See Thru Ruler Dritz 831 See-Thru Ruler, 2 x 18 inch
Hot Ruler Clover 7811 Hot Ruler Press Perfect (for ironing hems and seam allowances) Quilter’s Pins Dritz 3005 Quilting Pins, 1ž inch, Yellow (175 count) (to pin pattern pieces to fabric when cutting, they are really good because they are extra long)
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6 Pattern Pieces
Front Cut 1
Back Cut 2
Tie Cut 4
Neckline Binding Cut 1 (on bias) Sleeve Cut 2 Button Loop Cut 1 (on bias)
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Helpful Resources Section 01: Preparing to Sew- Fabric layout and marking 1. Pattern Layout Explanation Video: How To Arrange or Layout Sewing Pattern Pieces - Updated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNjulZzkTL8 2. Cutting Pattern Pieces out of Fabric Explanation Video: How to Cut Out Sewing Pattern Pieces - Updated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F025v6FvGi4 3. Fabric Marking Tools Article: Make Your (Temporary) Mark With These Fabric Marking Tools https://www.mybluprint.com/article/make-your-temporary-markwith-these-fabric-marking-tools 4. Marking Explanation Video (After you cut out the pattern peices): How to Mark Your Fabric For Sewing - Updated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3kew4KqMfI 5. Grainline Explanation Videos: What Is... The Grainline? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGVFEVnmwbQ Understanding Grainline - What is Fabric Grain? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4d7utQKzODI 11
6. Selvage Explanation Video: What Is... The Selvage? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAafo9P4iiQ 7. Bias Explanation Video: What is the bias? How to find the bias grain in fabric? Learn Sewing Terminology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCuvQyea-lY
Section 02: The Sewing Process 8. Seam Allowance Explanation Video: What is Seam Allowance - Sewing Basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F025v6FvGi4 9. Sewing a Set-In Sleeve Artice: How to Sew a Set-in Sleeve With Ease https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Sew-a-Set-in-Sleeve-With-Ease/
10. Sewing a Set-In Sleeve Video: How to Sew a Set-In Sleeve - 2 ways | How to Ease a Sleeve https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E1_NcRrDB8 11. Sewing a Shank Button Video: How to Sew a Button - for Absolute BEGINNERS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Du6gq3ks0SQ 12
How To Cut: Fabric Layout For both 60 & 45 inch wide fabric: Front, Neckline Binding and Button Loop pattern pieces are all cut one. So you will unfold fabric and lay it flat. Make sure the grainlines on the pattern pieces are parallel to the selvage of the fabric. (Neckline binding and button loop pieces are cut on the bias).
Selvage
Selvage
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For 60 inch wide fabric: Back and sleeve pattern pieces are both cut two. So you will fold the fabric horizontally, matching the selvages. The tie pattern piece is cut four. So you will cut two of the ties out with the pattern piece and then place the pattern piece back onto the fabric and cut out the additional two. For a total of 4 tie pieces.
Selvages
Fold
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For 45 inch wide fabric: Back and sleeve pattern pieces are both cut two. So you will fold the fabric horizontally, matching the selvages.
Selvages
Fold The tie pattern piece is cut four. So you will unfold the fabric and lay it flat again. You will cut one of the ties out with the pattern piece and then place the pattern piece back on the fabric each time, cutting out the additional three. For a total of 4 tie pieces.
Selvage
Selvage
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Sewing Instructions 01
1. First, we will start with the two back pattern pieces. With right sides togther, pin the Center Back (CB) seam. Starting at the dot that you marked to the bottom.
02 2. With right sides together, sew the CB seam from the bottom to the dot with ½� seam allowance.
03
3. Iron/press the seam allowance of the CB, so that it lays flat. The keyhole should be open.
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For the Keyhole:
4. Fold up the Keyhole seam allowance, ½� and press it. Do this for each side of the seam allowance.
04
04 a
The fold should look like this after you press this side. 04 b
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Another view of folded seam allowance of keyhole.
04 c
5. Lay back piece flat. Pin one side of the keyhole. So that it stays folded under while sewing. (Makes it easier to sew!)
05
6. Next, you will topstitch the keyhole. Sink the needle of your sewing machine in the dot that you marked. Position your presser foot diagonally like the photo.
06 18
Topstitching the Keyhole: 7. Stitch diagonally until you are near that folded edge. (It can be Ÿ� or less from the folded edge.)
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8. Sink your needle in, lift up your presser foot. And pivot the fabric. (Now the top of the keyhole should be facing you, like the photo.)
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9. Put your presser foot down and sew a straight line along the inside of that folded edge.
09
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When you are done, it should look like this.
09 a
10. Next, do the other side of the keyhole the same way.
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It will look like this when you are done topstitching the keyhole. 10 a
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Here is another view from the outside of the garment .
10 b
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The Tie: 11. You should have cut out 4 tie pieces. Take two of the pieces and pin them with right sides together.
11 a
Then, take the other two pieces and pin them with right sides together.
Here are two different ways of pinning, you can do whichever is best for you.
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12. Sew the ties with a Ÿ� seam allowance. Sew the top, diagonal side and bottom.
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12 a
Leave this side open on both ties
12 b
After you sew both of them, they should look like this. For the top tie, I pivoted while sewing the corners, for a continuous stitching line. For the bottom tie, I sewed each seam separately, whichever is easiest for you. Both work! 22
13. Next, turn both the sewn ties inside out.
13
It should look like this.
13 a
14. Using a pencil or a chop stick, insert it inside the tie to make the corners more sharp and nice.
14
23
14 a
15. Poke or push the corner out with the pencil or chop stick.(Gently, as not to poke a hole in the fabric.) This trick will cause you to have a perfect sharp corner everytime. Do this to all four of the corners.
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16. Press both the ties. So they look neat and flat.
16 24
17 17. Pin one of the ties to bodice front like the photo. Line up the tie edge to the edge of the side bodice. Make sure to place the tie inbetween the two notches on the side seam of the front bodice (right side facing up).
18 18. Stitch with Ÿ� seam allowance.
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19. Sew each tie to each side of the front bodice.
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Side Slits and Hem:
20. With the right side of Front Bodice facing down. And the wrong side up (see the photo), take Side Slit seam allowance and fold up ½� and press.
20
It should look like this. Do this for both the left and right sides.
20 a
21. Do the same for the Back bodice as well.
21 21
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22
22. Next, fold up the hem ½� also. Pin it and Press it. Do this for the Front and Back bodice.
After you press it, you can remove the pins. This is how it will look after it is pressed/ironed. 22 a
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22 b
This is how the back will look.
22 c
22 d
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Mitered Corner
23 a
23
23. Take the corner where the side slit and hem meet. Then, fold in half like the images above.
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24 a
24. Next, measure a quarter of an inch (Ÿ�) in from edge. Mark with a pin. (You can also mark with chalk.) 29
25
25 a
25. Next, stitch/sew where the pin was.
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26. Turn sewn corner right side out.
26 a
30
27. Take the corner you just turned right side out and lay it flat.
28. Use a pointed object (pencil, chopstick, scissors, etc.) to get a nice corner. Gently take the object and use it to nudge the corner out. (Be careful, not to poke a hole!) 27
29. Pin your folded side slit seam allowance down as pictured.
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29
31
30
30 a
30. Fold up hem folded edge to meet with side slit. You should fold up half an inch (½) or a little more (�). Which ever is easier for you! Doing this should make a diagonal line at the corner as pictured. Pin this in place.
31. Next, continue to fold up and pin the rest of the hem folded edge. This will make you a double folded hem. 31
32
31 a
Once hem is pinned completely, it should look like this.
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32 a
32. Next, press/iron the double folded hem in place. 33
33. Next, topstitch the hem. Just from corner to corner. Stitch along the inside of the edge of the fold.
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33 a
34
33 b
Once the hem is topstitched, it will look like this.
33 c
35
This is how the front hem should look when topstitched.
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Side Seams
34. Take the back piece and place it on top of front piece (with right sides together), lining up the side seams. 35. Pin the side seams together. Pin from the top of side seam to the dot that you mark. (You will have to slightly unfold slit seam allowance on both sides) 35 a 34
35
I digitally remarked the dot, so it’s easy to see.
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36
36. Next, stitch the side from the top to marked dot. (Leaving the rest open.)
Side Slit: 37
37. Next, re-fold slit seam allowance like it was. And iron/press it flat. Just like the photo.
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38
40
39
38. The topstitching of the side slit is exactly the same as the topstitching of the keyhole. Sink the needle of your sewing machine in the dot that you marked. Position your presser foot diagonally like the photo.
39. Stitch diagonally until you are close to the folded edge.
40. Sink your needle in, lift up your presser foot. And pivot the fabric. Put your presser foot down and sew a straight line to meet with hem topstitch. 39
After one side is done, it will look like this .
When both side are finished it should look like this.
40
Shoulders
41
41. Next, match the shoulder seams of the front and back bodices (right sides together). Pin in place. And then sew together with a ½� seam allowance.
41 a
41
Sleeves
42
42. Take both sleeve pieces and fold in half, making sleeve side seams match and pin. Important! Make sure you have a right and a left sleeve. (Facing different directions.) If not, you will have 2 left sleeves or 2 right sleeves. (Also, the single notch is the front of the sleeve. The double notch is the back of the sleeve. In photo, is front of sleeve.) 43
43. Sew side seams together of each sleeve with ½� seam allowance. 42
Sleeve Hem
44
44. Fold up sleeve hem ½” and press/iron it.
44 a
43
45. Then take that folded edge and fold it up again 1 inch or ½� (if you want a smaller hem). And press/iron it.
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After ironing, it should look like this. 44
46
46. Topstitch double folded hem of sleeve along inside of folded edge as shown in photo.
It will look this when finished topstitching
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Sewing Set-in Sleeves 47. With both the sleeve and bodice turned right side out. Make sure the single notch is on the front of the sleeve and it matches the single notch of the front bodice. Like the photo.
48 a
47
48
48. Now, match the side seam of the bodice with the side seam of the sleeve. With right sides together, pin it.
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49
49. With the side seams of both the bodice and the sleeve matching and pinnned, turn the bodice inside out over the sleeve (like the photo).
Sleeve should be in the bodice now.
49 a 47
50. With right sides together, match the front single notch of the front bodice with the front single notch of the front sleeve. Pin it. Next, match the double back notches of the back bodice with the double back notches of back sleeve. Pin it as well. It should look like the photos.
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50 b
50 a 48
51. Next, match the notch at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam of bodice and pin it.
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52. Next, pin inbetween the front single notch and the top notch at the shoulder seam. I used 4 pins. But you can pin as much or as little as needed. When pinning, the sleeve should have ease. Stick a pin inbetween each ease wave, like the photo. (It may appear that sleeve is bigger than the armhole but this is because sleeves need ease. If not, you will have restricted mobility when wearing the blouse.)
52 49
When fully pinned, it should look something like this. The sleeve has ease (waves) but the bodice armhole does not.
50
53
53. Sew the sleeve to the bodice armhole with a ½� seam allowance. When sewing, the sleeve should be on top. Also when sewing, hold the sleeve, placing your finger tips inbetween each ease (wave). This will help you to not create accidental pleats in the sleeve.
53 a
51
Another view.
Also, make sure when sewing that the bottom layer (bodice armhole), has no ease and is flat.
53 b
You can do this by periodically stopping and lifting up the bottom to check that it is flat.
53 c 52
Once the sleeve is sewn on, it should look like this.
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The side seams should match.
And with the sleeves completed, it will look like this so far.
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Neckline Binding
54. Make sure neckline binding piece was cut on the bias. Take piece and fold it in half and iron/press.
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It will look like this.
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55
55. Neckline binding should start ½” before the keyhole edge, like in this photo. You can mark that ½” and line it up with the edge.
Line up and pin unfolded edge of the binding with the neckline edge as pictured. Pin along the whole neckline.
55 a 56
56 a
56
56. When you get to the other end, measure ½� pass the keyhole edge.
56 b
56 c
Mark it on the binding and cut off extra binding pass that mark. 57
When fully pinned it should like this. Now you are ready to sew it on!
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57. With right sides together, sew the binding to the neckline of the bodice with a Ÿ� seam allowance.
57
When finished it will look like this.
57 a 59
58 a
58
58. Next, now take the binding and fold it up, with the seam allowance underneath. Prepare to topstitch along the inside edge of the binding (this is called understitching).
58 c
58 b
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Button loop
63
63. Using the button loop pattern piece, cut out the button loop on the bias. (The pattern piece is very small, 1 inch height and 2 inches wide.)
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64. Fold the button loop piece in half horizontally.
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65. Sew the unfolded side along the edge (very small seam allowance). 61
66. Next, we will turn the button loop right side out. For this, you will need a very small saftey pin. The one I used is about the width of a nickel. 66
67
67 a
67. Slide the safety pin into the folded corner and close it. (Make sure safety pin is going in this direction.)
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68 a
68.Then, slide and insert the safety pin into the tube.
69
69. Push it through until it is through to the other side.
69 a 62
70
70 a
70. Continue until the button loop is all the way pulled through and is on the correct side.
70 b
After you are finished, it should look like this. You can press it if you like.
63
71. Fold the button loop to where the ends are next to each other, (like the photo) to create a loop. 72. Take the blouse and fold in the end of the neckline binding and pin. 71
73. Place the folded button loop along the edge of the keyhole and pin it. (Like the photo, the button loop ends should be about ½ “ inside the neckline, for a ½” size button.) (However, if you have a smaller button you can take it in more. Or if you have a larger button, you can let it out more by making the loop ends closer to the CB edge.) 74. Sew the button loop onto the neckline. (Using the same color thread as the fabric will help this stitch not to be visible. Or you can hand sew it.)
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73
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Sewing the Button
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76
76 a
75. To sew the button, you will need a hand sewing needle that is double threaded (more strong) with a knot on the end. View from the inside
76. Pierce your needle through all layers at the Center Back neckline from the inside to out. 76 b
Once pulled through, it will look like this .
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77
77 a
77 b
77. Next, pierce (or pick up) a tiny piece of the fabric (like the picture). And pull the needle and thread all the way through.
66
78 a
78 78. Next, take your shank button and thread the shank (the hole) of the button.
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79 a
79. Then, you will pierce (or pick up) a piece of the fabric and pull the needle and thread through. This will anchor the button. 67
80
80. After you pull it tightly through, you will take your needle and go back through the shank (or hole) of the button.
80 a
Side view
68
81
81. After you go through the shank, repeat the same process. Pierce or pick up a piece of the fabric (behind the button). Pull it through.
And go back through the shank and pull it through. You can repeat this process as many times as you would like. I usually do this process 2-3 times. 69
82
82. After you finish the previous process, you will now wrap the thread around the bottom of the button. This will give it further stability and makes it sturdy. (Once you do this, that button is not going anywhere!) 82 a
82 b
So, take your thread wrap it around the bottom of the button and pull tightly. 70
Repeat the same process. 82 c
82 e
82 d
82 f
71
83
83. Now we are going to finish sewing the button on. Take your needle and sink it through all layers and pull it out to the other side (where we started from).
83 a
83 b
This is how it will look from the inside. 72
84
84 a
84. Finally, you will make a knot to ensure that the button is tightly secured. You will do this by picking up a piece of the fabric with your needle. This will make a loop.
84 b
84 c
Then, you will take your needle and thread and pull it through that very loop. Pull tightly. Thus making a secure knot.
Finally, you will cut away the thread, leaving the knot for a clean finish.
84 d
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When you are finished, it will look like this.
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CONGRATULATIONS!! You are officially done with the Paige Blouse!
It will look like this when you are done!
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Other Garment Options With This Pattern!
(Some visuals)
Once you are finished with the Paige Blouse you may want to create these styles on your own
Sleeveless *
Original
Tie in Front
Tie in Back
No tie
Dress with or without sleeves **
* For Sleeveless: To finish the armhole, you would finish it like you did with the neckline binding. Measure the armhole circumference and cut a bias strip 1½� wide by the circumference measurement (length). Cut one for each side. Sew it the same way as the neckline binding.
** For Dress: Take your Front and Back pattern pieces and extend them to the desired length of your dress. You can do this by taping a piece of paper to the bottom of your pattern (I like to use brown Kraft paper because it is very wide). Then, draw the extension. REMEMBER to lower to the slit. Measure up from the hem your desired slit length and mark it. This is where your new slit will begin. Or you can completely remove the slit. Style it as desired!
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Glossary Bias- bias is a line diagonally across the grain of the fabric. True bias is at a 45-degree angle. Fabric cut on the true bias has the maximum stretch ability of woven fabric. Binding- a single or double fold of strips cut on true bias, in which one edge is stitched to the garment edges as a finish or trim. Button Loop- made of bias tubing, thread, or cord and looped to serve as a buttonhole. They are usually placed to extend beyond the edge of the garment in lieu of the extension of the garment. Ease- The even distribution of slight of fullness when one section of a seam is joined to a slightly shorter section without forming gathers or tucks. Used in shape set-in sleeves, princess seams, and other areas. Ease Allowance- the amount added to pattern measurements to make garments more comfortable and allow for easier movement. Grainline- a pattern marking line, with an arrow at each end that indicates the direction pattern pieces should line up with lengthwise grain of the fabric. Hem- the finished lower edge of a garment that prevents raw edges from fraying or tearing. Mitered Corner- to form a diagonal seam at a square corner of a neckline, hem, or bias-angled position. 77
Muslin- an inexpensive, plain-woven cotton fabric made from bleached or unbleached yarns; varies in weight from fine to heavy. Notch- a small V-shape or clip, marking the edge of the pattern piece, to indicate which seams match and are to be joined. Notions- small supplies needed to make a garment, such as thread, needles, pins, buttons, and zippers. Pattern Markings- the symbols for construction, such as for darts, buttonholes, notches, dots, or tucks, printed on patterns. They are transferred from the pattern to the fabric by means of tailor’s tacks, notches, chalk, basting, tracing wheel, or dressmaker’s carbon paper. Pivot- to turn a square corner by leaving the needle in the fabric, lifting the presser foot, and turning the material being stitched in another direction. Press- lifting and placing the iron on the garment pieces during construction with or without moisture, being careful not to push the iron back and forth. Presser Foot- the attachment on the sewing machine that holds fabric steady at the point it is advanced, while the needle is stitching. The “all-purpose” foot is used for most stitching. Seam Allowance- the amount of fabric allowed for the seam in joining sections of a garment or other articles together. 78
Selvage- the narrow, firmly woven finish along both lengthwise edges of the fabric. Selvage does not ravel. Set-In Sleeve- a sleeve with a fairly high cap that resembles the shape of the arm. Set-in sleeves are cut separately from the bodice and are stitched into the armhole after the shoulder and side seams are sewn. Understitch- understitching is achieved by folding the entire seam allowance to the facing side or underside, and stitching on the correct side of the facing close to the seam edge. This allows the seam to lie flat and keeps the seam edge from showing on the correct side of the garment.
Source: “Glossary of Sewing Terms.” A Guide to Fashion Sewing, by Connie Amaden-Crawford, 6th ed., Fairchild Books, 2015, pp. 389–394. 79