SUP in Venecia

SUP Venice

in november

Nico Fayol

Venice, an island city with 183 canals, 1.600 years of history and 1.000 architectural treasures. Famous for its carnival, canals, gondolas and historic squares; a city with many facets. What could be more tempting than taking off and diving into the water, getting up with a paddle and discovering this “City of Waters” far from the great tourist periods in search of an authentic Venice.

Before the trip, a little preparation is required. We know the navigation authorizations for boats without motors and the class of transport in Venice. It is forbidden to cross the Grand Canal and navigate near the Saint Marc district. Time restrictions are imposed that prohibit navigation on weekdays and weekends from 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Another important point: Venice is a pedestrian city, with no cars, no bicycles and no public transport in the city except taxis and gondolas. A detail that greatly influences our organization.

We landed in San Marco in heavy fog. We decided to get to the city by water, aboard the Vaporetto, the water tram. 2 lines to choose from, red or blue, to approach Venice and tour the entire city and the small islands that surround it. For us, it would be the blue line with a stop at Fondamente Nuvo, as close as possible to our accommodation. On the deck of the ship, there was a storage area for luggage. Our navigation equipment fits easily in one of its spaces

Venice ´21

We left the airport with fog. The taxi boat sails very slowly. You can’t see anything 10 meters away. We hear the sounds of the city in the distance, the swish of the comings and goings on the water and the horns of the boats to indicate their presence on the great canal. We made several stops, but we couldn’t find our way around. 45 min of crossing from the airport and we arrive in the heart of the city. A mysterious first contact, in a very special atmosphere, worthy of an old thriller with a Renaissance decoration in black and white…a port in the mist…

SUP on the back, suitcase under the arm, we go out between stairs and alleys in the direction of our accommodation. Thank you technology and GPS!. It is a real labyrinth of cobblestones and bridges. We quickly realized that once the boards are swollen, it would be difficult to get around these alleys with very narrow and busy intersections. We have needed to locate the access points to the canals from our accommodation and optimize our pedestrian travel times with the boards.

Once the bags are deposited, we go out to explore the surroundings and locate our embarkation point for the next day, letting ourselves be easily carried away by the rhythm of the shops and the alleys full of architectural feats. We stopped at St. Mark’s Square before dark. At 16:30 the sun has already set, the fog has lifted and there is another facet of this city so alive that we were discovering. At 18:30 we were in the middle of tasting Spritz and local wines on the terraces. A row is SUP day.

First morning in Venice. Outside temperature 3 °, very cloudy sky but without announcing rain. We started the session by blowing up our Fanatic Pocket Ray Air in the apartment. These boards are lightweight and therefore easy to transport. It is a real comfort, especially when you have to be careful in the very narrow crossings, in the passages where you have to press against the walls to receive the tourists with our boards and our oars. This is already quite an adventure.

Arriving not far from the Rialto Bridge, we put our fins and our waterproof Zulupack bags on our boards. We keep a map of the channels as a precautionary measure; because in the cold, phone batteries can discharge more quickly. Last adjustment of our 3 part Fanatic paddles (80% carbon for greater lightness) and already in the water, heading to the Castello district.

We quickly understood the navigation rules. They are evident: small shouts before turning at intersections to indicate our presence to users of gondoliers and other boats, keeping to the left when you come across a gondola, making regular stops at all intersections, respecting and soaking up the calm and the autumnal silence of the canals; which contrasts with the pedestrian activity in the streets and on the bridges of Venice…

We spent 2 hours paddling without looking too much at where we are going on the map. There are so many things and details to look at, that time passes very quickly. Time for a little break. We saw a cafe terrace at the end of a covered walkway easily accessible by the canals.

A curious getaway that surprised some tourists and the owner of the cafeteria when they saw us come out of this tunnel with our SUPs, paddles and vests; for Italian coffee and a spritz. About 3 fries and 2 tapas later we leave.

We decided to approach the Grand Canal. Arriving close to it, we quickly understood why our boats are prohibited there. Crossing this channel would be like asking a turtle to cross a highway at rush hour...

We quickly move away to get lost in the artists’ of the Cannegerio neighbourhood. The channels are wider there. The more industrial and popular environment is not without charm. We saw old port warehouses transformed into contemporary artist studios and discovered some hidden green spaces.

At the end of a channel, we come to a vein of water that empties into the sea. The view from our boards over Venice, seen from the sea, is intimidating. The city is suspended in the water. On the one hand the calm, on the other we see in the distance the animation of the boats and the tourists. Finally, we paddle for 4:30 hours. Time to warm up and enjoy the city at night.

Venice ´21

Venice ´21

The next day it rained and with a temperature of 6°. We tried stealth navigation in the morning, very curious to discover a Venice upon waking. The session would be very short. But it is very difficult to move and paddle in this unexpected morning bustle. Between the comings and goings of the delivery boats on the canals (so quiet the day before…), the passage of huge garbage boats, the multiple renovations works….We finally cancelled our departure.

We left Venice under blue skies. The city is magnificent. With this sun, we offered ourselves one last ride on the route of the Vaporetto blue line and its stops on the island of Murano, world famous for its glassware. One last look at the boat and we said goodbye to this “City of Doges and Bridges” that offered us many facets and environments to discover on our SUP.

Tips: take light and manageable equipment (inflatable SUP, 3-part paddle). Mandatory vest in the water. Respect the navigation rules. Do not forget the Zulupack type waterproof bags and pockets (secured sealing).