ISSUE NO. 29
WINTER 2020
I M PAC T
pg.26 pg.21
pg.10
pg.16
pg.41
pg.46
pg.36
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pg.54
pg.65
In this Issue 06-07
INTRODUCTION
38-41
INTRODUCING IMPACT
08-09
DIOR'S RENIASSANCE OF FEMININITY
WRITTEN BY SOPHIE THOMPSON
42-44
46-49
UP X MUSE
CONNECTION THROUGH CHROMOSOMES
50-51
TURNING STRUGGLE INTO SIGNIFICANCE
THE MODERN WORLD OF SOCIAL MEDIA WRITTEN BY NINA SCHUMANN
WRITTEN BY ANNA PATRICELLI
18-21
WOMEN BREAKING BARRIERS WRITTEN BY JASLYN DAVIS-JOHNSON
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LOGAN GLENNIE
16-17
MAGNIFICENT MANES PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUNHO MOON
WRITTEN BY ABIGAIL PADGETT
10-15
THIRD CULTURE KID
52-55
FASHIONABLY FAITHFUL WRITTEN BY ABIGAIL PADGETT
WRITTEN BY GRACE CALLAHAN
22-25
ADVOCATING FOR INCLUSIVITY AT MIAMI UNIVERSITY WRITTEN BY ERIN ADELMAN
26-33
56-61
ELEVATED PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMANDA PARMO
62-65
A HISTORY OF IMPACT WRITTEN BY ADRIENNE BETCHEL
WINTER PUFFERS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAGGIE SMERDEL
66
LAST WORD FROM THE EDITORS
34-35
A MOTHER'S INFLUENCE WRITTEN BY REGAN O'BRIEN
36-37
AS SEEN ON TV: EXPLORING FILM & TV'S IMPACT ON FASHION WRITTEN BY EMMA BOGGESS
C OVE R S T Y L E D B Y Katie Wickman P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y Christina Vitellas M O D E L E D B Y Jordyn Thompson
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Bella Douglas
PUBLISHER
W R IT E R S Erin Adelman Adrienne Bechtel Emma Boggess Grace Callahan
Astrid Cabello
Carolyne Croy Jaslyn Davis-Johnson
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Regan O'Brien
Katie Wickman
Abigal Padgett Anna Patricelli Nina Schumann
DIRECTOR OF FASHION Ben Krautheim
DIRECTORS OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Sophie Thompson
BLOGGERS Sophie Blasi Bridget Bonanni
Maggie Smerdel & Christina Vitellas
Carolyne Croy Shannon Kelly
COPY EDITORS
Sydney Nelson Cache’ Roberts
Julia Plant & Claire Podges
DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Avery Salomon
DIRECTOR OF VIDEOGRAPHY Annie David
DIRECTORS OF MARKETING Cami Cicero & Casey Doran
DIRECTORS OF EVENT PLANNING Cora Harter & Alex Jimenez
DIRECTORS OF COMMUNICATION Junho Moon & Emma Nolan
SENIOR BLOG EDITOR Kaylee Spahr
BLOG EDITOR Lizzie Carter
DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Emma Naille
ADVISORS Annie-Laurie Blair & Fred Reeder Jr.
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Molly Monson
Jamie Santarella Rebecca Wolff
PHOTOGRAPHERS Annie David Logan Glennie Rachel MacNeil Junho Moon Amanda Parmo Erin Poplin Ivy Richter Avery Saloman Lauren Waldrop Olivia Wilson
VIDEOGRAPHERS Emily Ambargis Asha Caraballo Elle Gordon Erin Poplin Holly Pappano Olivia Wilson
EVENT PLANNERS Bridget Bonanni Paige Buckingham Amy Holbrook Kalena Pendang Maddie Sturcke Christian Wurzelbacher
STYLISTS
Olivia Bianco Cami Cicero Kayleigh Fikejs Natalie Gruenwald Nina Grotto Erin Haymaker Madelyn Hopkins
Emma Jarard Hailey Lowe Isabella Lucarelli Abby Malone Katie Mcllroy Sarah Oldford Will Priess Gianni Rosa Meghna Santra Isabelle Sistino Dani Spensiero Sophia Spinell Christian Wurzelbacher Matt Zeldin Maddie Zimpfer
MAKEUP ARTISTS Shelby Anton Sydney Caras Katie Friedland Janet Herman McKenna Meyers Sophie Mone Tory Noble Olivia Pangrazio Dani Spensiero Julianna Spina
L AY O U T D E S I G N Grace Barrett Katie Buecker Caroline Bumgarner Katie Fee Parker Jacobs Fatima Knight Sophie Monzo Sarah Semon Maggie Walkoff
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S Louise Allison Kelly Breur Makenzie Fightmaster Julia Laginess Taylor Ryan Nina Schumann Alex Walker Grace Wells
MARKETING Emily Ambargis Lauren Balster Olivia Ben-Kiki Kate Buckley Emily Coyne Sarah Dayan Emma Jobson Sophie McGahan Taylor McManus
Maggie Miller Emily Nebraska Olivia Owens Elizabeth Phelps Taylor Ryan Katelyn Siragusa
SOCIAL MEDIA PHOTOGRAPHERS
Josie Adams Emma Boggess Monet Cavanaugh Mark Decile Kate deJesus Jessie Dolby Kate Hartner Kelsey Lewis Elli Mchaffie Max Rionda Lauren Speelman Olivia Wilson Amanda Zager STYLISTS
Olivia Belkin Olivia Bianco Sophie Blasi Kelsey Lewis Hannah Matthews Anastasia McDaniel Elli Mchaffie Fifi Oginni Will Priess Isabelle Sistino Terra Weber A N A LY S T S
Erica Brower DESIGNER
Jacqueline McCully
In a day and age where the tumultuousness of the news cycle can freeze us in our tracks, force us to take a mental or emotional pause to reassess what is important in our lives and hold the people we love more closely, one thing is for certain: for better or worse, we all have the capacity to leave an impact. In fact, I believe that as human beings, it is in our nature to do just that. As we move into 2020, perhaps we should think about the impact we want to make. It is our duty to as the world’s next generation to provoke, incite and aggravate, but for the good of humanity and the world we have been given. Even while we are wounded and tender to the touch, find a way to rise up and make an impact, even in the smallest of ways. It’s for these reasons we chose Impact as this year’s winter theme. We wanted to define just what it means to have a significant and meaningful influence on the lives of our fellow humans, exploring who and what leaves a lasting footprint on our lives and the moments that shape us. This issue’s stories, photos, fashion and layouts seek to inspire you to make an impact wherever you go. In this issue, Grace Callahan shares the stories of two individuals striving to change the conversation around mental health after struggles of their own on page 18. She approaches their challenges with great sensitivity, highlighting their desire to end the stigma around mental illness and bring awareness to its pervasiveness on college campuses. After all, there is no health without mental health. Flip to page 34 to read Sophie Thompson’s captivating interview with Miami University senior, Maddi Whissel. Born in Singapore and raised in Shanghai, China by Canadian parents, Whissel discusses her experiences and the lasting impacts of being a third culture kid, which she defines as “being born somewhere else, living somewhere different and having parents from another place.” Nina Schumann considers the modern impact of social media on page 48, reflecting upon the fluidity of the medium and the universal language of content creation. As unforgiving and idealized this world may appear with every scroll, she asks us to remember the raw and honest humans that shape the ocean of influence behind our screens and to consider the free-flowing effect we all have on each other. Be sure not to miss Erin Adelman’s profile on Dante Rossi and Jaylen Perkins, Miami’s student body president and vice president, on page 22. She details how they’ve used their unique perspectives to act as catalysts for change on campus and their desire to leave a lasting impact on Miami—one that advocates for inclusivity and gives a voice to the voiceless. Admire the stunning photo editorial entitled “UP x MUse” shot by Logan Glennie on page 38. The shoot marks the first creative collaboration between UP and MUse Management, Miami’s only talent management organization. With elevated styling, inventive posing and sophisticated angles, the shoot champions the artistic impact of our community’s creatives. We look forward to joining forces with MUse again in the future. On behalf of every single member of our incredible staff, I hope you are left feeling inspired flipping through the pages of Impact and encouraged to leave this world better than you found it. I hope you feel impacted by this issue’s compelling stories, its artful design and its captivating photography. Thank you for trusting us to create it—we’ve loved every minute of it. Much UP love,
Bella Douglas EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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I M PACT
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(verb) to have a significant or meaningful influence on someone or something; an effect // Exploring who and what leaves a lasting footprint on our lives and the moments that shape us.
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08 MARIA GRATZIA CHIURI:
Dior's Renaissance of Femininity
by Abigail Padgett
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WINTER 20
PAGE 09 QUIETLY, CONTINUOUSLY AND GRACEFULLY,
shape to her gowns, she refuses to sacrifice femininity in an age where any appearance of it is seen as a weakness.
women seemed to have climbed the proverbial fashion ladder, to the tippy top of Paris’ haute couture. In an environment that primarily caters to women, it seems that only now women have the ability to reimagine brands as leaders in creativity. Historically, women only influenced haute couture in the sense that they wore it, passively consuming male dominated designs. Now, women get to define what they wear, taking a larger ownership in the way they choose to imagine themselves.
And, there seems to be something fitting about this effort to champion femininity rather than suppress it as more and more women make their way into the upper echelons of the already lofty realm of haute couture, but using femininity as a force and valuing female voices has been a legacy of Dior since its postWWII birth in 1946.
Undisputedly, one of the influential figures in this revolution is Dior’s first female director, Maria Gratzia Chiuri, appointed as head of the House in 2016, after 17 years at Valentino. “When I arrived, I decided to think about femininity in a way that is contemporary. The women are different now,” Chiuri said in a 2018 interview with British Vogue. With the passing of Karl Lagerfeld in late February of this year, there was a sudden spark of interest in the faces behind haute couture, or rather, the minds behind the runway. With the loss of Chanel’s most iconic figure since Coco herself, the world of fashion has redirected its eye to other enduring faces of fashion, faces that were often overshadowed by Largerfeld’s mysterious, but larger-than-life presence. In contrast, Chiuri has been a breath of fresh air in the sometimestoo-serious and far-fetched world of haute couture. Her creations are a reflection of a wonderful avant-garde feminine whimsicality, one that has championed women since its inception with Mr. Dior himself. Chiuri’s designs are a wonderful mixture of contradictions: wispy tulle skirts and delicate lace mixed with clean lines and earthy tones.
Vogue wrote of Chiuri’s reaction to her T-Shirt: “I never imagined this kind of reaction,” she said, recalling the time she saw a young girl wearing a fake version of the T-shirt in New York. “She didn’t know where it originated from, but she wore it because she believed in the message. To me that is more important than my design because it starts a conversation.” The shirt embodies this rebirth and embrace of femininity, of femininity as infinitely varied. For most, Dior’s pricey designer digs don’t make it into their wardrobe, but the fact that other more accessible brands look to haute couture Houses for inspiration proves the power of Chiuri’s impact on House Dior, throughout the fashion community, and on women as a whole. Perhaps part of making a real impact is the ability to influence, even if not in the spotlight. Part of making a noticeable difference is knowing that that effort may go unnoticed. If so, Chiuri embodies strength in persistence, as well as crafting designs that will outlast the easy come and go of trends. Both in her career and through the clothing she creates she continues to do an exceptional job of championing women; as fashion rediscovers the power of this female director and as other female-headed houses follow suit, their femininity guiding them into a new era of haute couture, one that needs these voices as direction.
UP
Despite Chiuri’s iconic and forward-thinking plain white T-shirts with the powerfully simple statement “We Should All Be Feminists” that have become emblematic of Dior, most of Chiuri’s creations remain an homage to the past. With the swish of her finely embroidered floral skirts as well as the classic lines and
“Fashion used to only impose a point of view, now it has to be a dialogue," Chiuri explained to British Vogue.
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UP / MUSE
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W2020
E01
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Photographed by Logan Glennie
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(IN COLLABORATION WITH MUSE MANAGEMENT)
Styling by Gia Tummillo Modeled by Ava Dasari 13 | WINTER 2020
Makeup by Cheyenne Shrieve
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Hair by Emily Hetrick 15 | WINTER 2020
Photographed by Lauren Waldrop Styling by Will Priess Modeled by Maggie Drury & Ladasia Thomas
connection through chromosomes WRITTEN BY ANNA PATRICELLI
There’s no doubt that DNA plays a very important role in our lives, even going so far as to impact our relationships, lifestyle and personal taste. DNA tethers us to our genetic ancestry, linking family members across shared genomes and common genetic makeup. This is the case for Eliza Burgess, a freshman at Miami University from Seattle, Washington. She had lived in Washington her entire life and only ever saw her grandparents from Ohio and aunt from Connecticut sporadically. “My family situation was always a little different from other people’s in that I never really knew that many of my family members,” Burgess said. “I sometimes go to visit my family in Columbus, but it’s pretty inconsistent. I saw my aunt in Connecticut a few times, but she lives in Maine now and I’ve never even been to visit her.” However, this all changed when she took a 23andMe DNA test with her mom when she was 17 years old. At the time, Burgess knew a little about her heritage—her dad’s side was northern European and her mom’s side was French-Canadian—but she didn’t know that her ancestry would bring her closer to new relatives she had never met. 23andMe is an at-home DNA kit that allows you to send a saliva sample to a lab. It takes approximately three to five weeks to get the results back. These results tell you where you come from, connect you with relatives and build you a personal family tree. Using 23andMe’s DNA Relative Finder feature, Burgess found that there were people in Quebec, Canada who shared similar DNA to her. This wasn’t surprising, given her mom’s background. Nevertheless, she was intrigued by the new information. “Because I never really grew up with a lot of close relatives, it was pretty cool to find out that I had some that I didn’t even know about,” Burgess said. “I was really curious to find out more, so I decided to connect with them.”
She reached out through email and got a response back within days. It was from her great uncle Dan, her grandpa’s brother. Burgess explained that her grandparents died when she was younger, so she was never in touch with her mom’s side of the family. Her mom had never met her uncle because he lived in a different country, so this was the first time Burgess had heard about him. “He was very friendly over email, and was just as willing as I was to keep in touch. He said that I can come visit anytime, which I definitely would love to do,” said Burgess. She plans to visit Canada in the near future to hopefully extend her family connections and get to know her new-found relative. Burgess’ story is not unique, as more and more people begin utilizing at-home DNA tests to discover their roots, reconnect with the past and even discover a long lost family member. In fact, according to a 2019 study by MIT Technology Review, more than 26 million consumers had added their DNA to four leading commercial ancestry and health databases, such as 23andMe and its competitor, Ancestry. It’s hard to predict the repercussions of the general public’s newfound interest in ancestry, genetics and health. Per the aforementioned study by MIT Technology Review, experts have cited concerns about the privacy, accuracy and unintended consequences of at-home ancestry tests, such as disputed paternity. If such a frenzy of use continues “the gene troves could hold data on the genetic makeup of more than 100 million people within 24 months.” Perhaps Ancestry’s privacy statement says it best: “You may discover unexpected facts about yourself or your family when using our services. Once discoveries are made, we can’t undo them.”
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turning
struggle
into
significance
Changing the Conversation around Mental Health
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WRITTEN BY GRACE CALLAHAN
As a child, the world was Hannah’s* stage. Her vivid imagination and love for dance constantly kept her busy, creating anything from finger paintings to elaborate dance routines. She was mostly comfortable in her own youthful mind, assuming that the overwhelming anxiety she felt regarding her family’s well-being was only normal for a child. As if the pressures of adolescence weren’t enough, during Hannah’s sophomore year of high school, she became violently ill for weeks with what doctors believed to be the flu. Although she showed no sign of physical improvement, Hannah was forced to return to school so as not to fall behind in her classes. She braved the high school halls, though she frequently left in the middle of class, feeling too unwell. Weeks went by, yet Hannah remained mysteriously ill, leading to numerous hospital visits, tests and multiple medications. She began to miss an alarming amount of school and became too weak to dance. Finally, after a long, draining period of waiting and worrying, Hannah was diagnosed with severe anxiety and agoraphobia, a specific anxiety disorder classified by the extreme fear of leaving one’s home or of entering open, crowded places. Adjusting back to everyday life after receiving such a considerable diagnosis was not easy. Hannah said that she put on a happy face to avoid worrying her peers, but her true friends knew how much she was struggling—at this point, she was getting sick every day before school, talking to a therapist daily and working on rearranging her schedule to only sit in the classroom for one period a day. Although Hannah was taking steps to improve her physical and mental health, she was still burdened by the struggles of her diagnosis and how her peers handled it. “Everyone just tiptoed around me, but every morning I’d try to erase yesterday’s thoughts and move on,” said Hannah. “Gradually, the medicine and strategies I learned started to work, and my panic attacks died down. I was only sick every few days, then every few
weeks, then every few months. I became less sad and more motivated to leave my house. I became me again, with a twist.” With each passing day, Hannah learned new things about herself and discovered her inner strength from her diagnosis. Though her journey hadn’t been easy, she made tremendous strides after the brutal weeks of sickness and worrying early in high school, going on to give a speech in front of her class, flying to Florida by herself and even dancing again—performing a solo on stage in front of hundreds of people. Although Hannah made big strides in her recovery after her initial diagnosis, her move to college wasn’t without its challenges. “For me, the transition was full of anxiety and sleepless nights in my dorm room,” Hannah said. However, she is grateful for the coping strategies she’s learned and acknowledges that the transition only gets easier with time. Hannah is now thriving at Miami University and wants others struggling with mental illness to know that they, too, can be “successful in their own right.” She attributes the success of her transition to college to the tools her therapists, family and teachers gave her throughout high school. Although Hannah’s personal story with mental health is unique to her, mental health struggles are no stranger to many all over the world. According to Vaishali Raval, Ph.D., a psychology professor at Miami, the World Health Organization (WHO) has declared a new slogan stating, “there is no health without mental health.” When asked why the WHO has declared this new slogan, Raval said, “There are about one in four people around the world that are expected to suffer from some sort of mental health disorder at some point in their life.” Raval also mentioned that depression is projected to be one of the leading causes of disease only second to heart disease. She believes that mental health should be treated equally to physical illness at the university level.
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When asked if mental health struggles were a valid excuse for missing class or being late on assignments, Raval said, “They absolutely are. Students do produce a doctor’s note for physical sickness for delays or missing an exam. Mental health challenges are equally valid.” Ronnie Wollett, a senior at The Ohio State University, recognizes the prevalence and severity of mental health struggles, specifically on college campuses. In January 2018, Wollett created “Never Walk Alone,” a student organization intended to connect students struggling with mental illnesses, bring awareness to university resources for mental health, raise money for mental health organizations and end the stigma surrounding mental health dialogue. “Never Walk Alone” now has additional chapters at Kent State University, University of Dayton, as well as Miami. They’ll soon open a chapter at Ohio University. “Never Walk Alone” was developed from Wollett’s own experience with mental health. He has struggled with severe depression his entire life—something that was especially difficult for him to understand during his childhood. “Being a kid that had a lot of friends, was very active in sports and with life in general, you know you wouldn’t really realize that I was struggling,” Wollett said. Because it was so difficult for him to grasp why he was feeling these negative things, Wollett began to internalize a lot of his emotions. Wollett began his college career at Miami. However, after a tremendous amount of hardship and setbacks, he found himself at a breaking point with his mental health. Prioritizing his well being, Wollett decided it was time for a change, and in 2017 he transferred to Ohio State. Although he describes this as one of the most difficult times in his life, Wollett also recognizes how his struggle has been a formative experience, teaching him a great deal about himself. After arriving at Ohio State, Wollett realized the need in his community for an organization like “Never Walk Alone.” “This is something that I need to do. I think this is
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something that the entire community could benefit from and it’s something that I really believe in and am passionate about,” Wollett said. So, upon this realization, he put up an Instagram post and received an overwhelming response from people wanting to get involved. The rest is history, as they say—Ohio State’s chapter of “Never Walk Alone” now has over 300 students fighting against mental health stigma and offering support to struggling peers. Here at Miami, “Never Walk Alone” has over 100 members. The personal impact of Wollett’s struggle with mental health has allowed him to have an even broader impact on his wider community. “Never Walk Alone” is leading the way for the discourse of mental health on college campuses nationwide. Hannah hopes to make a similar impact by sharing her story. She hopes to spark open conversations about mental health and encourage others to simply be kind. She said, “I want to be a voice for those with mental health issues to show them—and others—that it’s more common than they think.”
* Hannah asked that she be identified by her first name only to protect her privacy.
Photographed by Annie David Styling by Natalie Gruenwald, Katie McIlroy & Meghna Santra Modeled by Thespina Nail & Cam Wanke Makeup by Janet Herman
there is no health
without mental health 21 | WINTER 2020
Photographed by Amanda Parmo Styling by Gianni Rosa & Christian Wurzelbacher Modeled by Jaylen Perkins & Dante Rossi
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A VOICE FOR THE VOICELESS:
ADVOCATING FOR INCLUSIVITY AT MIAMI UNIVERSITY
WRITTEN BY ERIN ADELMAN
As Miami University senior Dante Rossi remembered how Associated Student Government elections transpired last spring, he said, “We weren’t people anyone expected to win, but it happened.” Rossi had never been involved with ASG, and neither had senior Jaylen Perkins, but the two became good friends during a diversity and inclusion trip through Farmer School of Business and saw eye-to-eye on most issues. Mere days before the first election last spring, Perkins—who was running for student body president—called Rossi and asked him to be his vice president. Though Rossi said he was hesitant and initially turned down Perkins’s offer, the next day he agreed to join his team. Overnight their website and social media platforms grew as they began campaigning for the upcoming election. They advocated for two impacts: diversity and inclusion, led by Perkins, and mental health, led by Rossi. Though both said they have loved their experiences at Miami, they know that not all students have a positive college experience.
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“We thought we could provide a fresh perspective,” Perkins said. “We have the point of view of the students on campus with ASG involvement. We want to continually reach out to students and educate them about what ASG truly does.”
The lobbies will have a plaque with details about the men’s lives and their roles in Freedom Summer, as well as their photos. People will not be able to enter or leave the dorm building without seeing the commemorative plaque.
Perkins was the president of Black Student Action Association last year and is the current treasurer. As he invited BSAA alumni to events last year, he said many did not want to return to Miami because of a lack of diversity on campus. Alongside other passionate students, he began advocating for black students at Miami. He said this initial experience working with administration to impact campus sparked an interest in running for student body president.
Meanwhile, Rossi has focused on using his platform as vice president to improve mental health services for Miami students. During his freshman year, Rossi came out as gay, and though his friend group helped him through that period, he said he knows that not all LGBTQ community members have a strong support system. He said his experience freshman year opened him up to Miami’s LGBTQ community and was the catalyst that sparked a desire to make a greater impact at Miami.
As a resident assistant for two years, Perkins learned about how to have a long-term perspective while in college. He said his first residence director, Jonathan James, challenged him to consider the impact he wanted to have on Miami’s campus.
“I want to mitigate why people feel like they can’t find a place here, especially people within the LGBTQ community,” Rossi said. “I want to make sure that people are glad to graduate from Miami.”
“He asked me, ‘What do you want your legacy to be?’” Perkins said. “This set my gears turning, and made me think long term. It made me wonder what things can I do today that will live on when I’m done here?”
Both Rossi and Perkins have used Miami’s mental health services and they have plans to expand similar resources for students. Currently, they are working on providing telecounseling through the university. Students would be able to download an app and talk to a counselor on their phone in a setting similar to FaceTime. This way, students will not have to stress about making an appointment and paying additional fees. In addition to telecounseling, Rossi is working with ASG to garner money for an unlimited subscription to a crisis hotline.
Many Miami students are only vaguely aware of the connection tied between Miami’s western campus and Freedom Summer. In 1964, various civil rights organizations sponsored events aimed to encourage black voter registration. Miami’s western campus hosted orientation sessions for these events. However, three civil rights activists who were trained at Miami were later murdered in Mississippi while registering black voters. Perkins has been working with Miami’s Office of Diversity and Inclusion to educate students on this impactful piece of Miami’s history. “Freedom Summer is part of Miami’s diversity and history that goes unspoken,” he said. “We will be honoring the three people who were lynched by renaming the lobbies of Hillcrest, Beechwoods and Stonebridge … this keeps that part of history alive on Western campus.”
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Planning and organizing the Mental Health Forum in the spring has also been at the forefront of Rossi and Perkins’s agenda. This year, the forum will span three days with a new itinerary each day. The forum focuses on the daily stressors many college students experience. “The lasting impact we want is to give voice to the voiceless,” Rossi said. “At the end of the day we all have a say and should leave Miami better than we found.”
“I want to make sure people are glad to graduate from Miami.” – DANTE ROSSI
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WINTER E02
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PUFFERS W2020
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Photographed by
Maggie Smerdel
Styled by
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Matt Zeldin, Kayleigh Fikejas, Isabella Lucarelli & Maddie Zimpfer
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Modeled by Royce Guy, Mia Lee & Stone Rhodes 32 | WINTER 2020
Makeup by Tory Noble 33 | WINTER 2020
34 UPINION:
A Mother's Influence
by Regan O'Brien
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WINTER 20
PAGE 35
MENTOR. GUIDE. LEADER. ADVISER. These words all have something in common. Impact. They teach us how to be the best versions of ourselves and push us in the right direction. For me, most of these people have been strong, powerful women. But there is one woman in particular who I am closest to, who has influenced me the most—my mom. Who I am at my core is a melting pot of the woman who raised me, and who had the biggest impact on my life. I’ve always had a strong personality. It’s a part of myself that I struggle to embrace at times. I’m proud of my voice and my opinions, but it can also get me in trouble. In high school, I was considered standoffish and known for having a stellar RBF (Resting Bitch Face). I was so in my own head, focusing on my goals, that I neglected to ever show a softer side of myself. As a college student, this is something I’ve been continuously working on: allowing myself to be vulnerable and show all aspects of my personality, but also not losing sight of who I am.
I’ve always felt that I was a little before my time, though not in a conceited way—an “old soul” perhaps. My trademark with most of my friends is that I’m the one who has my life together the most, the most reliable, the “mom.” While I could do without being called the “mom” of the group, I’ll take all of the others. My mom instilled a strong work ethic in me for as long as I can remember. When I was little I would put up flyers at my mom’s office, with the big Word Art bubble letters, marketing myself as a babysitter. I think a lot of that came from always seeing my mom work. I didn’t grow up in the household with ascribed gender roles, where the mom is home all day while the dad is off at work. My parents both contributed equally to our family and made sure that my brother and I knew that things weren’t going to just be handed to us in life, but that we had to earn them. This is a life lesson that has served me well in my first three semesters here at Miami. I worked to be where I am in life, to be surrounded by amazing mentors, and to put myself on track for the kind of life I want to lead. I don’t think that I would be so confident in those things if it wasn’t for having the impact of a strong female role model in my life to show me what being a strong, independent, young woman really looks like, and to guide me along the way.
UP
“You are your mother made over” is a phrase I hear more often than not. In appearance and personality, I am basically Kelly O’Brien 2.0. Some people might shudder at the thought of being compared to their mom, but personally, I couldn’t think of a bigger compliment. My mom is the strongest, most selfless, loving person I’ve ever met—not
to mention she is tough as nails. These are all traits that she has passed on to me (besides the tough as nails part, we’re still working on that one). Needless to say, she’s taught me so much about what it means to be independent, to have trust in myself and how to love unconditionally.
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WRITTEN BY EMMA BOGGESS
As Seen on TV: Exploring Film and Television’s Impact on Fashion
“O
ne is never over-dressed or under-dressed with a little black dress." This quote by the late Karl Lagerfeld, former creative director of Chanel, couldn’t be more true in referencing Audrey Hepburn’s iconic black dress in the 1963 film, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” One of the most observable impacts that a film or television show can have on a viewer is through one’s style, and Hepburn’s sleek Givenchy dress and pearls show that a film’s costumes can be just as memorable as the characters themselves.
Photographed by Rachel MacNeill Styling by Erin Haymaker & Sophia Spinell Makeup by Sophie Mone Modeled by Kiersten Joyce
The relationship between fashion and film has been an enduring one. Dr. Kerry Hegarty, head of the Film Studies department at Miami University, said, “film and television have influenced trends in fashion since the beginning,” mentioning the silent film stars of the 1930s as being the first “role models of female liberation in fashion.” Hegarty asserted that by the 1990s, the influence of TV on fashion trends has become just as, if not more, prominent than the role of movies. Even period TV shows, such as “Mad Men” and “That 70s Show,” have inspired looks both on and off the runway. She believes television may have more of an influence on fashion than film due to the consistency of the characters. Audiences are more exposed to the style of characters on their favorite TV shows and can watch their styles evolve through the course of a season. Even today, people are emulating Rachel Green’s 90s style from “Friends,” or Carrie Bradshaw’s eclectic looks in “Sex and the City.” Audiences feel more connected to these characters, as their lives are relatable, and their clothes usually more attainable. For example, Carrie’s wardrobe in “Sex and the City,” includes a wide variety of high and low-end pieces, which viewers could potentially find in their own closet. According to the Vogue Paris article titled “Carrie Bradshaw in 20 iconic Outfits,” the memorable
tutu that Carrie wears in the opening credits was actually found in a thrift store for $5 by the show’s stylist, Patricia Field. Many staples of Rachel’s wardrobe in “Friends” can be found at local thrift stores, as well, such as high-waisted jeans, flannels, and turtlenecks, usually in neutral or muted colors. As fashion reporter Ellie Violet Bramley said in a recent Guardian article titled “Dressed to kill: why we’re obsessed with the clothes on TV,” “If there are more female characters living the kinds of lives viewers are living . . . the costumes will influence what could actually be hanging in women’s wardrobes.” Viewers feel like they can embody the traits of characters that they personally relate to, and an easy way to achieve this is through replicating their style. Although shows of the past are extremely impactful on today’s styles, so are current shows like, “Euphoria,” “Killing Eve,” “Big Little Lies,” and “Stranger Things.” The ethereal feeling of “Euphoria” has inspired a new movement in makeup and beauty, in particular. Scrolling through Instagram, one can see a multitude of iridescent, rainbow makeup looks thanks to the show. In an interview with Vogue titled “How Euphoria’s Lead Makeup Artist Sparked a Gen-Z Beauty Movement,” the show’s makeup artist, Doniella Davy said she wanted to “[showcase] the makeup as a whole new freedom of self-expression,” sparking a “new aesthetic you don’t typically see on TV.” Another show that has reignited past trends is “Stranger Things,” which is set in the 1980s. Despite being a more current show, it has further propelled the comeback of the distinctly 80s look, including neon bomber jackets, pleated pants, and, of course, scrunchies. The wild popularity of this show has been a driving factor in inspiring the fashion of a younger generation who otherwise wouldn’t have been exposed to this style. Although TV may have more influence nowadays, film will always play a prominent role in the fashion world. As Hegarty puts it, “There are iconic looks from films that come to mind that define entire decades,” mentioning, for instance, James Dean’s white t-shirt and red leather jacket from the 1950s film “Rebel Without a Cause.” Even recent movies, such as “La La Land,”
“Jackie,” “The Great Gatsby,” and “Ocean’s Eight,” utilize costumes as an integral aspect to their stories. In “La La Land,” the award-winning film pays homage to past Hollywood icons through classic silhouettes and colors. The 2017 Vanity Fair article titled “Emma Stone and Ryan Gosling’s La La Land Costumes Were Inspired by These Old Hollywood Stars” refers to the memorable planetarium dance scene in the film, where Emma Stone’s dazzling emerald green dress is a tribute to Judy Garland’s costume in the 1954 version of “A Star is Born.” Costumes from these movies are even frequently created by prominent designers themselves, such as the extravagant 1920s looks in “The Great Gatsby” designed by Prada, as mentioned in the 2015 i-D article “Exploring the Relationship Between Fashion and the Silver Screen.” Fashion, film and television are inexplicably linked. The ensembles of our favorite characters have directly impacted runway trends, and we incorporate elements of popular films into our wardrobes without even realizing it. Maybe this is why Audrey Hepburn’s little black dress in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” resonates with us 57 years later. So the next time you’re browsing current styles, consider whether or not these pieces may have been inspired by your favorite film or TV show.
Photographed by Olivia Wilson Styling by Sarah Oldford Makeup by McKenna Meyers Modeled by Maddi Whissell
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WRITTEN BY SOPHIE THOMPSON
third culture kid
Madi Whissel was nine years old when she found out she’d be moving to China.
most defining moment in terms of moving throughout my life, just because that was such a big change,” Madi said.
The Miami University student, now a senior, sat at the breakfast table with her brother, George, looking hesitantly at a brochure for the Shanghai American School. Her parents had just informed them that they would be permanently moving overseas within the span of a few weeks and although she didn’t know it then, she would be living there for six years, a formative period that would always stay with her.
Shanghai was unlike anything Madi had ever experienced. Her family arrived in the district of Pudong in 2007 with no knowledge of Chinese. They lived in an apartment with no yard, unlike their home in California, where they could play outside and in the streets if they wished. Their neighborhood was local, with few other foreigners living close by, and they had no one to help them settle in.
“The experience was very different from the standard American childhood,” Madi said.
“When we first moved there, it was definitely the worst,” Madi said. “I still remember our first week there. My mom, my brother, and I were trying to figure out how to get to the grocery store because we didn’t know where it was. We didn’t have phones; it was before iPhones so you couldn’t just Google where something was. We didn’t know how to get a taxi. We didn’t know how to talk to the taxi driver. So we literally were just stuck for a few days trying to figure out how to even get to the store.”
Madi was born in Singapore, an island city-state off southern Malaysia, as her parents had moved there from Hong Kong in the 90s. The couple is originally from Canada, but had a strong desire to pursue new, diverse experiences. They had initially moved to Hong Kong because it was a British Colony at the time, and they could live there without Visas because Canada was part of the British Commonwealth. Mr. Whissel found a job working in supply chain for The Coca-Cola Company, while Mrs. Whissel worked in finance. The nature of their jobs and their keen curiosity about other places is what made them decide to keep moving around while living abroad.
Little by little, the Whissel family adapted to their new home. They hired a driver and a cook— both common practices in Shanghai due to the availability of inexpensive labor—and changed their eating habits in accordance with the different food for sale in Shanghai.
The family soon moved to Malaysia, where George was born. When Madi was two and a half, they moved to the U.S., living in California and Arizona for a time until she was nine and her brother was five.
“That was one of the hardest things for my brother and I to realize when we moved there, that we couldn’t just get Cinnamon Toast Crunch anywhere from the grocery store,” Madi admitted. “We kind of just had to learn to take what we could get.”
“When we moved to Shanghai, I think that was kind of the
Among the lack of American-type cereal was an absence of
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normal dairy products like milk and seasonal delicacies like strawberries and blueberries. While Madi wasn’t a picky eater, George had a harder time adjusting, choosing to eat plain meals with rice or noodles for a long time after their initial move. Madi soon found herself in a normal routine. She attended Shanghai American School, an international school with American curriculum, where all classes were taught in English but students attended from all over the world. She had friends from the U.K., Sweden, Finland, Greece, Australia—there was always someone new to meet with a background both similar and different to hers. “It’s kinda hard to put the experience into words, just because it’s so different than going to school over here,” Madi said. “No one was the same, but together we were all united by this international school, coming to Shanghai.” Going to school in Shanghai meant Madi had some unusual opportunities. Every spring, she went on experiential learning trips to different places in China. Whether it was seeing parts of the Great Wall in its original form in spaces not open to the public, or taking in the beautiful Yellow Mountains (also called the Huangshan Mountain Range), she got to see and do far more than kids on the standard class field trip. Although, Madi does recall some challenging moments during her time abroad, such as when she went on a class trip near the Gobi Desert during her freshman year of high school. After riding camels, she visited a minority Chinese village to learn about their culture and customs, where she and her classmates ate unpasteurized yogurt and got stomach parasites that lasted for up to two months afterwards. That’s not the only difficult experience Madi underwent during her time in Shanghai. She broke her leg at school six months after moving to the city, and her dad had a heart attack a while after. “The medical system was just scary to deal with,” Madi recalled. She can remember the feeling of panic and uncertainty in those moments, as no one in the hospitals spoke English. Thinking especially of her dad, Madi remarked, “They didn’t know what was wrong with him, they couldn’t tell him what was wrong with him, and that was a really scary moment for my family because we’re in a country [where] we don’t have any family here, we don’t know what’s wrong with him, we don’t know how long he’s gonna be in the hospital, we don’t
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know if they need to operate on him.” Living in Shanghai had both positive and negative elements, but Madi wouldn’t trade the experience for the world. She holds her friendships she formed there very close to her heart and still talks to those friends today. “We were forced to grow up so fast in a new culture,” Madi said. “I think the people that go to school overseas and live overseas are more in touch with the more important things in life. You couldn’t just live in your own superficial world there; you had to always be on your feet and be adapting to new situations.” Moving back to Arizona in 2015 had a tough impact on Madi. She was depressed for around a year and a half after leaving Shanghai, missing the excitement of her lifestyle and the diverse cultural mindsets of people she encountered. She started at an all-girls high school, a strange environment where people had known one another since kindergarten. “People were very close-minded and didn’t really know anything outside of Phoenix and outside of their own experiences,” Madi stated. She compared her experience to Shanghai, where she said, “You just had to let go of any bias you had about someone and just take the time to get to know them because you weren’t gonna find anyone that was like you from your hometown, or even from your state. I think it just makes you realize a lot about yourself and you’re capable of a lot more than you think in those situations.” Knowing how her family is always on the move, Madi said she has never identified long enough with a place to call it home. “I really struggle at Miami with the question ‘where are you from?’” she confided. “It’s a question that a lot of people like me that have lived overseas kind of dread. There’s actually a word for it.” Madi identifies as a third culture kid, which she defines as “being born somewhere else, living somewhere different, and having parents from another place.” While she might still be searching for the right place to call home, Shanghai stands out as a place that could be calling Madi’s name. “Out of any place, Shanghai is the place that feels most like home to me,” she said.
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“No one was the same, but together we were all united.”
MAGNIFICENT MANES E03
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Photographed by Junho Moon Styled by Madelyn Hopkins & Abby Malone Makeup by Sydney Caras
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Modeled by Ireland Adgate, Julian Caruso & Max Rionda
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Photographed by Ivy Richter Styling by Fifi Oginni Modeled by Caroline Atlas, Esther Amonor, Teryn Barker, TJ Black, Dornu Biragbara, Jaslyn Davis-Johnson, Kenene Enkossa, Gabby Findley, Katie McIlroy, Xadi Ndiaye, Fifi Oginni, Kayel Pugazhenthi, Laura Sears, Ladasia Thomas & Aicha Tiani Vessah
WOMEN BREAKING BARRIERS: FIFI OGINNI'S ENTREPRENEURIAL DREAM
WRITTEN BY JASLYN DAVIS -JOHNSON
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“You can be anything you want to be when you grow up.” Many of us can recall being young and hearing these words as we imagined a world full of endless possibilities and felt capable of achieving anything. For many creators, this statement is what gave life to their businesses-to-be, going on to be entrepreneurs that changed the world with their ideas. Fifi Oginni, an entrepreneur and senior at Miami University, recalled her mother making this same statement to her as a child. Oginni is the creator and owner of Fioma: House of Femme, a women’s apparel brand that embodies trend, culture and empowerment as one. Part of Oginni’s mission statement is, “I believe in the idea of non-traditional femininity. The notion of canceling out the outdated, restrictive form of the word femininity and helping to revisualize what it means to be a woman embracing the essence of femme.” “I would often look at people and ask myself ‘how can I get what they have—but better’ and that is where my brand comes in,'' Oginni said. Where there’s a need, there is a solution to be found in entrepreneurship. From the very beginning, Oginni dreamed of having a business of her own. Hailing from Nigeria, she was around the age of seven when she began to wonder how she could give back to her home country through passion and enterprise. Oginni has family that still resides in Nigeria, always supporting her passions and creative vision. She credits them for her perseverance and current successes. As a young girl, Oginni purchased fabric swatches from Michael’s and created clothing for her Barbie dolls. This was made possible by her grandparents’ gift of a sewing machine. High school would then offer her the chance to bring these visions to life, giving Oginni her first opportunity to be showcased in a fashion show. However, it would be far from her last—Oginni has now been featured in Miami University Fashion and Design’s annual fashion showcase each year of her tenure as a student. Not only is Oginni an entrepreneur, but she is also a fulltime student at Miami’s Farmer School of Business— she will receive degrees in marketing and strategic communications in the spring of 2020. Oginni summed up her life into two words: “Very. Busy.” Between her academics and clothing design projects, she often has to compromise her needs and wants, and has learned the
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importance of prioritizing within her day-to-day planning. Additionally, being a woman of color on campus has brought challenges of its own. Oginni expressed her struggles with “imposter syndrome” as she pursues her entrepreneurial dreams. As defined by the Harvard Business Review, “Imposter syndrome can be defined as a collection of feelings of inadequacy that persist despite evident success.” “There are people on campus who still question my merit and why I’m here,” she said. However, there is someone in Oginni’s life who makes things a little easier for her—her mom. Her mother’s impact on her has been immeasurable. From dressing Oginni in matching dresses and bows to financially supporting Fioma: House of Femme, her mother fosters the brand. Oginni is certain that her mother planted the seeds that are growing successfully within her today. As the old African proverb says, “It takes a village to raise a child” and Oginni wouldn’t be the businesswoman she is today without her village.
“I AM A PROUD WOMAN OF COLOR AND THIS IS WHAT I HAVE TO SHOW FOR IT.” As Oginni’s struggles with imposter syndrome demonstrate, female entrepreneurs, especially those of color, face unique challenges. In a 2015 report done by the Kauffman Foundation, it was found that women are half as likely as men to start a business. Women grow up learning to put themselves in a position to support themselves, and this doesn’t always include the positioning of
passion—making a living is more important than the life of a dream. Society often sells women the idea of marrying a CEO instead of one day being a CEO. Male dominance in the workplace has been embedded within American culture since the beginning, but according to the 2018 State of Women-Owned Business Report, commissioned by American Express, women are breaking down such barriers. Now today, women make up 40% of the new entrepreneurs entering the field. Additionally, according to the Forbes article “Why More Women are Turning to Entrepreneurship,” “between 2017 and 2018, women started an average of 1,821 new businesses per day in the United States.” That number has only grown and will continue to grow during this new decade. On a global scale, female entrepreneurs like Robyn Rihanna Fenty are transforming the business world. Oginni looks to entrepreneurs like Fenty for inspiration and confidence. Oginni said, “Rihanna does a great job of being inclusive … I think when your idea comes from a good place like that, it helps with the success of your brand and the impact it has on others.'' Rihanna launched her brand, Fenty Beauty, in September of 2017. She started a company that pursued her dream of catering to all women. Fenty Beauty differentiated itself by offering 40 different shades of foundation from launch, far more than the handful of hues offered by other brands. Not only did this catch the world's attention, but it changed the landscape of the makeup from that point onward. According to an article from Forbes titled “How Rihanna Created A $600 Million Fortune—And Became The World’s Richest Female Musician,” in the brand’s first 15 months of being in business, it generated about $570 million in revenue. However, it isn’t just the entrepreneurial pursuits of superstars that have the power to make a worldwide impact. In fact, entrepreneurship and innovation span the curriculum right here at Miami, and its influence only continues to spread. The University, with its John W. Altman Institute for Entrepreneurship, was ranked 7th among public universities by The Princeton Review and Entrepreneur magazine in 2019. Miami’s commitment to education in entrepreneurship is further demonstrated by the support of President Gregory Crawford, who said,“Creativity, imagination and innovation are important in and out of the classroom … By encouraging our students to embrace the entrepreneurial mindset that will be required in next-generation careers, we prepare them to be agents of change and designers of a better future.”
“(ENTREPRENEURSHIP IS) SEEING A VISION AND SETTING IT FORTH WITH YOUR OWN RULES AND REGULATIONS; A SORT OF CALLING THAT ONLY YOU CAN ANSWER.” – FIFI OGINNI
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OCEAN OF INFLUENCE:
The Modern World of Social Media
by Nina Schumann
Even amongst the noise of the ever-changing world of social media, a writhing sea of the stories of billions of users, the powerful voices of some individuals seem to triumph over others. In any society, we fall victim to the hands of those who mold our lives and impact us in the manner that they do—similar to the vulnerability and relativity of the ever-shifting ocean. Just in the way that the ocean behaves at the mercy of the natural forces that govern its motion, humans depend on and react to the forces— both minor and dominant—that influence us. Oftentimes, it can feel as though the nature of social media apps
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such as Instagram allows for only the existence of two rigid groups within its millions of users: the influencers, and the influenced. When an Instagram model posts a photo endorsing a new skincare product, it certainly feels like only two divided forces, the influencer, and their audience, are at work. Yet, the nature of social media influence may be one of much more fluidity in reality. “The truth is, this (social media) movement may be more so complicating things than revolutionizing anything,” Ron Becker, Ph.D., Miami University Comparative Media Studies program coordinator and Media and Culture professor, said of the modern
PAGE 51 social media climate. “In a way, we’re writing nuances into the story that is influence and impact within society.” It seems that with every new social media user, another voice is ushered into our modern narrative and social media world— another force joins the ocean of influence. “One of the things that’s different about social media is that the audience can participate in the very same media practice as the people they’re watching,” Becker explained. “The audiences, the influenced, the followers—they all have the same technological ability to do the thing that the influencer is doing, they just don’t have the same impact.” Thus, the content creation process for most social media platforms is a universal language. All Instagram users can create and post their own personal image content. YouTube watchers can film and upload a video of their own, just as the figures they watch do. As Becker offered, we all do influence, but it’s more so a matter of how greatly our voice resonates amongst the others. Thus in reality, social media harbors a much less rigid environment than this common perception of two firm and unchanging groups of users. Instead, with every user acting as influencing elements on one another, its adaptive nature mirrors that of the ocean. “Any time you’re communicating with an audience, you’re always presenting yourself with the audience in mind,” Becker said, “I think it’s a great point to say that the (influencers) always are making choices about how to present themselves with the audience in mind, and therefore they are being influenced in a way.”
too, feels influenced by her Instagram counterparts. “I definitely use other models as inspiration, and kind of recreate in my own way,” said Dini, “It’s a cycle.” Dini has nearly 7,000 followers on Instagram and has been modeling since age 16. “I feel like I’ll always have to maintain my online presence because branding yourself online is such a big part of models’ careers nowadays,” Dini said. She frequently has to provide her Instagram handle when visiting model casting directors. Dini shared that both the modeling industry and her presence as a social media influencer have posed some challenging, personal impacts on her. “The thing about influencing is you have to be sharing your life and you have to be vulnerable with people all the time. And, you know, that’s scary,” she said with a laugh, “opening up to people and posting what you’re doing constantly—there’s so much judgment out there.” Dini represents the truth that even the prominent Instagram figures doing the influencing are, in turn, affected themselves. She often considers what she could be doing differently to stand out as an influencer and sometimes finds herself comparing herself to other models. While Dini creates her own impact with her role as an influencer, she still feels the influence of others in the ocean with her. “I mean, I’m still human,” Dini said.
A social media influencer’s audience responds to the content, while the influencer awaits and then adjusts their content according to how well the audience seemed to favor it; we all interact with and affect one another.
UP
Gabriella Dini, a Miami University junior, model for the LA Models agency and Instagram influencer, even shares that she,
As unforgiving as this glamorized world of social media may appear with every scroll through idealized Instagram content, perhaps we must remember the raw and honest humans that shape this ocean of influence behind the screens—and consider the free-flowing effect we all have on one another.
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Fashionably Faithful WRITTEN BY CAROLYNE CROY
Growing up in a moderately religious family, I dressed modestly for church on Sunday, wore the same white satin dress for my First Communion that my sister and cousins wore before me, and dressed in my uniform five days a week for the six years I spent at a Catholic elementary school. Each morning, I remember begrudgingly buttoning up a collared white shirt, zipping up a pleated navy skirt and pulling up knee-high socks to wear with the penny loafers that my mother adored and I despised. I would bend the rules whenever I got the chance, always trying to deviate from the prescribed dress code of khaki skirts and knee-high socks. Whether it was the neon hair clips I stowed away into my backpack or the sequin ballet flats I told my mom I just had to have, I was always looking for some way to skirt the dress code. But after fifth grade, my religion ceased to dictate the way I dressed on a day-to-day basis because I finished the remainder of my education in public school. After having the majority of my closet filled with uniforms for years, I became obsessed with fashion. I took every fashion class offered and even won best dressed for my high school superlatives. But what if my uniform-donning days hadn’t ended at age 10? Would
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I have kept my interest in fashion? Would I have minored in fashion business in college? Sophomore Elizabeth Huddleson wore uniforms for six years at Bishop Hartley Catholic School in Columbus, Ohio. “I am a strong practicing Catholic, but I never felt like the uniforms were particularly connected with my beliefs,” she said. “I know a lot of people, myself included, appreciated having a uniform to minimize any stress or competition about what people were wearing.” But there are other religions that have their own sort of dress codes that aren’t only for children in elementary school. Baher S. Foad from the Islamic center of Cincinnati gave a presentation at Miami University on Wednesday, Nov. 20 about the misconceptions surrounding Islam and the Qur’an as well as modesty in Islam, especially concerning traditional Islamic dress customs. “Modesty is usually associated with the way women dress, not exposing parts of their body, or not dressing in a way that is excessive, or seeking attention,” Foad said. “However, modesty is more than that. It is the way we behave avoiding extremes.” Foad also elaborated on modesty in terms of actions and attitude and the way we treat others, and left me with these words that beautifully
Photographed by Erin Poplin Styling by Cami Cicero & Ben Krautheim Makeup by Julianna Spina Modeled by Ritu Narahari, Rishi Narahari, Amanda Parmo, Ilsa Shaikh & Natalie Walsh
sum up his beliefs about modesty in Islam. “Modesty in Islam isn’t just about how you present yourself, it’s about living in moderation.” While traditional Islamic dress and Catholic school uniforms outwardly express religious dress customs, daily fashion in many religions can’t be distinguished. Freshman Thespina Nail, and sophomore Kristina Miljkovic described how their religions affect their everyday dress. Nail is a Greek Orthodox Christian and Miljkovic is a Serbian Orthodox Christian, and while both described modest dress customs for traditions and church, both women agreed that their religious beliefs don’t have a strong impact on their everyday clothing choices. Miljkovic describes her own style as ‘Parisian chic’ and is a fan of female entrepreneur and influencer Negin Mirsalehi, while Nail gravitates more to the New York streetwear and athleisure trends on a day-to-day basis. While their traditions may differ, and their personal styles are unique, there is one constant similarity between them. Both women wear prayer ropes on their wrists every day. “The prayer rope is commonly used for The Jesus Prayer,” Nail
says. “You just grab each knot for each prayer and repeat for however long you feel you need.” As I look back to my time in Catholic school and the way I despised wearing uniforms, I’ve realized how much of an impact that time had on my life and how much I took it for granted—the fact that I have a Catholic church a half mile from my dorm while the nearest Orthodox churches are thirty miles from Miami’s campus. I’ve neglected to appreciate the fact that my religion is not a minority in the country I live in and that I’ve never been targeted for my beliefs. Whether a person’s religious beliefs influence the clothes they wear or not, religion has a great impact on the way we live our lives. It helps shape our identity that we present to the world, form our opinions and dictate how we spend our time. And while fashion is undeniably an integral part of everyone’s daily life—whether someone spends hours choosing an outfit or reaches for whatever is in the front of their closet—we all get dressed in the morning. As Foad said, modesty isn’t just about the way you present yourself, but the way you live and treat others—fashion follows the same rules. You can walk your entire life in the most expensive shoes, but as Marc Jacobs once said, “Clothes mean nothing until someone lives in them.”
“Modesty isn't just about the way you present yourself, but the way you live and treat others.” 55 | WINTER 2020
ELEVAT
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TED
E04
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Photographed By Amanda Parmo
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Styling by Nina Grotto, Hailey Lowe, Dani Spensiero, Isabelle Sistino 59 | WINTER 2020
Makeup By Dani Spensiero
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Modeled By Felix Jenn, Tre King, Ryan Kiehl Price, Natalia Lacki & Emersyn Newsome 61 | WINTER 2020
A HISTORY OF IMPACT E X AMIN IN G ROOK W O O D P O T T E RY ’ S L E G A C Y A N D ITS IN FL UE N C E O N C I N C I N N AT I
WRITTEN BY ADRIENNE BECHTEL
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Photographed by Avery Salomon Styling by Emma Jarard Modeled by Emma Karle
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Rookwood Pottery, founded in 1880 by Maria Longworth Storer, is the first manufacturing company in the United States founded by a female.
Rookwood Pottery continued to win international awards, and museums added Rookwood pieces to their collections.
1880. The Civil War had ended only 15 years prior. It was 40 years before women had the right to vote. And yet, on the banks of the Ohio River, Rookwood was established. This was unheard of: a woman founding and owning a manufacturing company in the United States in the 19th century.
Rookwood’s impact extends beyond the world of pottery. Since its start, Rookwood Pottery has been an integral part of the Over-theRhine community in Cincinnati, Ohio. After decades in decline, Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood has seen a spur of revival.
Progressiveness is innate to Rookwood. Longworth Storer had come from a wealthy family, but she set out to make her own path, shattering the norms of her time. The impact her grit and enthusiasm had on the city, the manufacturing industry, and history itself is remarkable. “Individuality shall be the goal,” said Longworth Storer, “and the potter’s wheel will be turned by woman power.” Tradition is part of Rookwood’s nature, and that tradition begins with historical impact. Within a decade, the company was considered the top pottery studio in the United States. The constructs, styles and decorations of its pieces were innovative and extraordinary. Longworth Storer was greatly interested in Japanese ceramic work, and many of the pieces embodied this style. Rookwood’s creations were not only intriguing but skillfully designed and crafted. Rookwood launched the art pottery movement in America, creating beautiful, high-quality pieces that live their legacy. And that Rookwood legacy lives on as an emblem of significance, quality and influence. In 1889, Rookwood Pottery was awarded a gold medal at the Paris Exposition—the same event where the Eiffel Tower debuted. An art critic from London praised Rookwood for achieving, “the highest triumph of ceramics.”
Within the last few years, a multitude of restaurants, bars, shops and businesses have opened in the area. Rookwood historian, George Hibben, said, “Rookwood as a company is always evolving and as a brand is going through a metamorphosis, much like the Over-the-Rhine revitalization. We are glad to be a part of the Over-the-Rhine art scene.” The neighborhood has been transformed into a vibrant historical hub—and Rookwood’s presence exists even in the foundation of the city. From the Carew Tower to the Union Terminal Tea Room, an article from Forbes titled “Over-The-Rhine: Cincinnati's Historic Neighborhood Hums Again" highlights Rookwood pieces that can be found in Over-the-Rhine’s architecture: it’s admirable “how many prominent buildings feature Rookwood architectural decorations.” Varying widely in style, Rookwood pieces can be found in any context. Rookwood has a careful focus on decorative interior pieces as well. Miami University Senior Lydia Jasper is an Art and Architecture History major focusing on Rookwood’s history as a part of her capstone. Jasper explained how Rookwood still operates by hand molding its pieces on a wheel (a technique called throwing); nothing is made by mass production. Much like Rookwood’s founding, each artist works on pieces that inspire them, and each has its own flair. “When I think of Rookwood pieces being in a home today, I think
INDIVIDUALITY SHALL BE THE GOAL & THE POTTER’S WHEEL WILL BE TURNED BY WOMAN POWER. – MARIA LONGWORTH STORER, FOUNDER OF ROOKWOOD POTTERY
that they can become a conversation piece,” Jasper said. In a world that pushes efficiency of the process, much of the originality of products can be lost. With pieces as seemingly simple as dishes, vases and tiles, the time that was spent designing and creating them is forgotten. Jasper emphasized that “In our fast-paced society, we often don’t take the time to slow down and appreciate the delicate parts that make up everyday housewares.” “Tradition of quality and beauty is the primary central ingredient in Rookwood’s creative processes and current creations” Hibben said. “Each new creation is given the due reverence of striving to create ceramic art of the highest standards.” Pottery has been around for centuries. The changes witnessed by this art form span elements of material, style, shape, decoration and more. Hibben noted that “Evolution of design and keeping current with national and international artistic trends have always been a part of the company since 1880.” But pottery is more than designing for practicality and decor. Since its founding, the staff believes that “Rookwood imparts a soulful merging of art within the home or professional space. Art pottery likewise infuses one’s personal space with beauty that brings a peaceful joy and satisfaction, a sense of elegance and endearing charm.” 140 years later, Rookwood continues its tradition of impact with one-of-a-kind designs. Maria Longworth Storer influenced creativity and innovation with her work and continues to be a symbol of passion and progressiveness today. Rookwood pieces are truly stunning; incredible details compliment poignant curves and absolute colors that impact the homes they fill, the buildings they construct, and the world of art.
EST. 1880
If you’d like more information on Rookwood Pottery’s collection, be sure not to miss the exhibit “Desire, Conflict & Exchange: Art of 19th Century East Asia and the West,” on display at the Miami University Art Museum from now until the end of spring semester 2020. Per Miami’s College of Creative Arts website, “Under the guidance of Dr. Michael Hatch, Assistant Professor of Art & Architecture History, and Art Museum staff, students in the Fall 2019 Capstone class curated an exhibition that looks at the exchange of art and ideas between Asia and countries in the West.”
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LAST WORD FROM UP’S EXECUTIVE STAFF
ASTRID CABELLO PUBLISHER
As we near the end of February, only the second month of 2020, this new decade has already taken on a certain shade of darkness. Most years I’d probably attribute feeling this heaviness due to post holiday blues, the cold weather outside or wishing I could go back on vacation. I can’t write it off so easily this time, however. In January of this year came the loss of an international sports hero, epic father and husband, Kobe Bryant. The death of Kobe Bryant affected me in ways I could have never imagined. Never having been a basketball fan or ever having watched an entire pro game, the sadness and darkness I felt for the victims of the tragic helicopter crash, and their families, felt unexplainable. However, I have hope. It’s in the darkness of tragedy that there’s a uniting force that arises among us, occurring organically and beautifully, with the power to connect absolute strangers. Unexpected tragedies like these can make us all pause, set our differences aside and think about “impact.” Impact can be found in countless shapes and forms, but I believe that identifying who and why something impacts you, as well how you can impact others, is most important. As you read our winter issue, I challenge you to think about the rest of this school year, the rest of 2020 and the rest of the decade—how you can not only be impacted but also make an impact.
BELLA DOUGLAS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
What the word “impact” means to me is likely different from any other person. There’s no question that the people, places and things that have left a lasting footprint on my life differs from you, reader. We have all lived different lives and have different moments that have shaped us. However, we’ve all felt impact—and that’s the beauty of our winter issue’s theme. Not only have we all felt impact, but we also all have the power to have an influence on those around us—that was the uniting force behind the construction of this issue. Through stories, photography, fashion and layout, UP’s staff wanted to embody just what it means to have a meaningful and significant effect on the lives of others. This publication is a tremendous source of pride for myself, and for UP’s entire staff, and I couldn’t be more thankful for each one of our readers. Thank you for trusting us to bring this issue to life. I hope each and every element of Impact resonates with you, but above all, I hope you feel inspired to leave an impact on those in your life, for good.
KATIE WICKMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR
It’s easy to forget that our daily actions and surroundings impact not only our own mental health and shape who we are as individuals, but also have the power to impact those around us. As Jackie Robinson once said, “A life is not important except in the impact it has on other lives.” Some days, it is far too easy to get wrapped up in our own obstacles and forget that others are struggling as well. Other days, it’s easy to find yourself feeling small in the shadow of larger, more powerful voices. In this issue, we capture the importance of “impact” through our minimal photography, composed of inspiring people and dynamic compositions. With a focus on clean, industrial and neutral layouts, the stories and featured individuals are brought to the forefront of Impact. I’m sure everyone at some point in their lives will feel as though they are insignificant and unable to make a change in the world. After reading through this issue, we hope you are reminded that the heroes and changemakers impacting the world today are not restricted to the voices and names broadcasted on the news and shared on social media. Rather, true impact is made by every individual, like yourself, and the action you take—whether large or small.
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UP MAGAZINE WINTER 2020
ISSUE NO.
29